RPM Seafood Chicago Dinner

RPM Seafood Chicago Dinner

I attended a business partner special event for Chicagoland CxO's at RPM Seafood Steakhouse overlooking the Chicago River in the city. 

For the group dinner, they served from the extraordinary extensive deep winelist a red and a white to accompany the starters and our dinner entree selections. They graciously offered the opportunity to select something from the winelist but their basic chosen selections were fine, absolutely suitable for the occasion. 

I chose for my entree the Wild Alaskan Halibut with Capers and Brown Butter (below). It was delicious and ideally paired with the Sancerre wine. It would have been much better had it been served hot rather than barely warm.

Fellow diners chose these other seafood dishes, the Butter Poached Lobster with Lemongrass and Ginger, 

(above) and the Charcoal-Grilled Black Bass with Moroccan Spices, Salsa Verdes shown below.

For the white wine course, which was most widely selected for the majority who chose seafood dishes, they served from the winelist this French Loire Valley Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc. 

Domaine Vacheron Sancere 2020

The Vacheron vineyards lie near the village of Sancerre and have been in the family for nine generations. The domaine is run by two cousins, the Messieurs Vacheron. Both have sons studying viticulture to carry on the family tradition. 

The vineyards cover 34 hectares with two principal soil types; "silex" and "caillotte" or chalk. 

Winemaker Notes - "A vibrant, 100% organic/biodynamic Sauvignon Blanc from a mix of flint and chalk soils in the heart of Sancerre. Aromas suggest grapefruit zest and gunflint; in the mouth, the wine is pure and fresh, with plenty of mineral energy and citrus-inspired flavors. This is classic Sancerre—limpid and clean, with lots of freshness and lovely energy."

This was awarded 92 points by Wine Enthusiast, and 90 points by Vinous. 

Vinous wrote in describing this wine, "Most producers can only dream of an “entry-level” wine that's this good" and I certainly agree. The broad winelist offers this label, and another premium Domaine Vacheron, "Les Romains" from the same producer for more than two times the price.

Straw, light butter colored, medium light bodied, refreshing, elegant, delicate, polished and superbly balanced flavorful white fruits with mineral, flint and whisper of citrus with well behaved tangy acidity.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4036789

 

For the red wine drinkers, also served from the winelist was this French Southern Rhone Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Saint-Galet, 2019

This Saint-Galet's 2019 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a blend of 80% Grenache, 12% Mourvèdre and 8% Syrah. 

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, ripe black and red bramble fruits accented by herbs, pepper with hints of rosemary and mint with soft sweet tannins and tangy acidity on the moderate finish.

RM 88 points. 

Nice QPR in this easy sipping modest bold red.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4070252

 

 

Italian Village Villa Calcinaia Producer Wine Dinner

 Italian Village Villa Calcinaia Producer Sebastiono Caponi Wine Dinner

Wine Director Jared Gelband of  Italian Village Chicago hosted a wine producer dinner featuring special guest Sebastiono Caponi of Villa Calcinaia in Greve-in-Chianti, Firenze, Tuscany, Italy. 

The themed dinner - "A Night in the Cypress" featured a six course dinner prepared by Executive Chef Jose Torres with wine pairing accompaniments for each course from Villa Calcinaia. 

The evening was held in the Italian Village Vivere dining room, the upscale of the three restaurants that make up the Village with its unique funky elegance.

Kicking off the evening, the full house was welcomed by Italian Village Proprietor and General Manager Gina Capitanini. 

The featured producer this evening was Sebastiono Caponi of Villa Calcinaia in Tuscany consisting of a flight of six wines, five from the Calcinaia estate, to accompany each course. We were also served the Villa Calcinaia estate Chianti Classico Extra Virgin Olive Oil. 

Sebastiono was delightfully engaging, he presented the history of the family, the estate, their vineyard plantings and a perspective on each wine. He revealed surprising impressive insights and knowledge of Chicago and even Indiana, as several of our fellow 'Pour Boys' (our wine group), Dr Dan and Ernie, and their guests were Hoosiers, having traveled into the city to accompany me and wife Linda for the evening event. 

As is typical with these events, the pairing of the wine with the food was extraordinary - amplifying the enjoyment of both.

The Calcinaia property has been in the Capponi family dating back to 1524  when Sebastiano del Caccia and Niccola di Andrea Capponi sold to Capponi "four poderi (self-contained agricultural units) a gentleman's house and two buildings in a place called Calcinaia overlooking the road to Greve, the drive in front of the Villa today. 

Today, the Villa Calcinaia estate produces a broad portfolio of more than a dozen Chianti Classico IGT, DOC and DOCG wines - all 100% estate sourced fruit, reds, whites, a sparkling wine produced in the traditional methode champonaise style, a dessert wine, and Chianti Classico olive oil. 

In the mid 16th century Calcinaia was considered important enough to be depicted in the maps of the Captains of the Guelph Party. The buildings enclosed by a wall, included the "house of master Giovanni Battista Capponi", a look more in line with the rank of its owner, a high-ranking official and future senator of the Granduchy of Tuscany.

The original four poderi of 1524 - Sepale, Calcinaia, San Piero al Pino and Bastignano - were increased in number through the years: Casarsa, in 1643 and the rest during the following two centuries. Calcinaia remained a simple country house until the second-half of the eighteenth century, when Count Ferdinando Carlo Capponi, a first-class administrator, reorganized the property in the Greve valley, building a fermenting cellar, storage cellars, the lemonhouse, and the rear section of the Villa that had been refurbished some fifty years earlier by Count Ferrante Capponi, who also added the Chapel.

The wine flight Villa Calcinaia selections

The estate has a historic heritage of vines and olive trees dating back to the end of the 19th century. Villa Calcinaia consists of 450 acres, seventy planted to vines in twenty-six different plots, the remainder in olive groves, surrounded by forests. The old vineyards were planted between 1959 and 1975 with more added later.

The Villa Calcinaia vineyards

The estate sits alongside the Greve river that divides the valley in two sides with different soils on each side. The right bank is characterized by the mountain range known as “Monti del Chianti” and the soil there comprises primarily sandstone and sand formed by the break-up of the bedrock of these mountains. The left bank, where Villa Calcinaia stands, is of Eocene origin with calcareous clay, the predominant soil type of the area. 

Italian Village Vivere elegant funky dining room

The name Calcinaia can be translated as 'chalk quarry', the material necessary for the making of mortar. The calcium can be found in great abundance on the estate and creates a certain fil rouge between the different soils. 

There are also important differences in the various vineyards' varying elevations, from 200 meters to 350 meters above sea level, and varied exposure as well as many small tributaries of the Greve river crossing the estate. On the lower grounds, patches of soil have grey clay, called in tuscan dialect “mattaione”. Generally, the soil in Calcinaia is loam; deeper soils with higher presence of sand in the lowers slopes towards the Greve River, and shallower silty soils with abundance of rocks on the higher grounds, known as “galestro”: a clayey schist whose exfoliating structure, crumbly surface, permeability, pebble content and wealth of trace elements ensure the vine’s vegetative balance and characterful wines. 

Villa Calcinaia owner producer
Sebastiono Caponi

Above the altitude of about 300 meters, there are outcrops of “alberese”, a calcareus marl more typical of the area of Gaiole that contributes to the wide array of soils at Calcinaia.

The estate produces Chianti Classico from Villa Calcinaia, considered the truest expression of the property proudly branded and labeled Capponi, producing three single vineyard designated wines that represent the distinct terroir of three notable vineyards on the estate.

The La Fornace vineyard was planted in 1975 by the Toti family, sharecroppers who had run the “podere” Le Fornaci from the beginning of the twentieth century. In 1975 the three brothers Natale, Renato and Adolfo, in agreement with the owners, planted just over a hectare of Sangiovese. American vines were also planted before being grafted after a few years with Sangiovese taken from the other vineyards of Villa Calcinaia. 

The La Fornace vineyard has a southern exposure lying nearest the river Greve, characterized by a greater presence of sand and the typical gray clay, like that which is still used for the production of bricks. This increases the complexity of the soil and is the basis for the name La Fornace. Sangiovese grown here reflects the specific soil texture of La Fornace, similar to those that grown on the right bank of the river Greve and often described as the most “Lamolese” of all the crus of Villa Calcinaia.

The wines sourced from here are characterized by a very fragrant and elegant wine, defined by fine and graceful tannins.

Over the last ten years, Villa Calcinaia has renewed many of the vineyards to achieve increased production of Chianti Classico wines. The renewal and restoration program included crafting the terraced land thereby allowing the vines to be planted following the contour line rather than the high East incline. They were planted with historical clones of Sangiovese determined through examining each vine on the plots of land originally developed by the sharecroppers. From this generation of vineyards, planted on a clayey and calcareous soil , surrounded by a pine forest, is the Bastignano vineyard. Since the 2006 vintage, this sources production of Chianti Classico Sangiovese, designated Vigna Bastignano after the name of the vineyard. 

From the unusual microclimatic warmth and the exposure, Bastignano produces wines with character of light, ruby, sunny and spicy bouquet and a distinct soft elegance of taste. This was the single vineyard designated label served with tonight's dinner.

The third vineyard selected for a single vineyard designated bottling, Contessa Luisa, was planted by Ferrante Capponi in 1959. The block was dedicated to his mother Luisa Vonwiller and remains today the oldest vineyard still in production at Villa Calcinaia. The two hectare plot is located on a hill facing west, the only such one on the Estate, which receives the warmth of the afternoon sun. The soil is characterized by a strong clayey character and a good depth. 

The American vines were grafted with the Estate mass selection Sangiovese varietal, as well as a small amount of other varietals that make the vineyard population more diverse and vibrant. Wine produced from this vineyard tends to have a very rich and opulent nose, characterized on the palate by an imposing tannic structure, resulting from the clayey nature of the soil. 

The dinner courses and wine pairings menu shown below:

The dinner courses and wine flight were designed by Jared and Chef Jose Torres, curated by special guest Sebastiano Capponi, the owner of the estate, who talked about each wine course and the history of the vineyard.

Ricezione

Grilled Watermelon / Cherry Heirloom Tomato / Burrata / Frisée / 

Balsamic Vinaigrette / Shaved Radish / Sea Salt

Served with:

Cantine Coppi 'Bollicinecheri' Sparkling Extra Dry Rose Salento IGT

 Antipasto

Seared Shrimp / Caponata / Toasted Hazelnut / Citrus Vinaigrette

Served with:

Villa Calcinaia 'Comitale' Bianco dei Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT

Like all the Villa Calcinaia wines, this is 100% estate grown fruit from vineyards planted in 1967 following a major flood in the area. The Comitale grapes were not the intended selection but were retained when they were found to be useful for producing this unique white wine.  

This is a blend of 90% Grechetto and 10% Vernaccia.

Significantly enhanced when paired with the food. Straw colored, light bodied, exotic and rich, aromatics and flavors of citrus, hints of pineapple, floral, mineral and stone fruit with crisp acidity.

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/editnote.asp?iWine=4099979

Primo

 Rigatoni / Veal Bolognese / Sun-dried Tomatoes / Shaved Pecorino

Served with:

Villa Calcinaia Mammolo IGT 2019

This is a unique grape varietal indigenous to Tuscany and is very rare, almost extinct in the region. It is not recognized or sanctioned by the Chianti appellation rules and therefore is not allowed as a blending grape with DOC Sangiovese wines. It stands alone in its character and flavor profile, more herbal than fruity, high in acid low in tannins, it goes well with charcuterie and was an ideal pairing with the Veal Bolognese. 

Although widely planted, Mammolo is a black berry varietal grown variously in Central Italy. It gets its name from the distinctive aroma of violet that characterizes its wine, ruby red in color, floral nose with typical hints of violet. 

When the weather is hot and low alcohol wines are preferred, Mammolo is a popular alternative to whites and roses of Tuscany with their character of wines with high acidity with low tannic content. They are popularly served paired with charcuterie.  

Dark garnet purple colored, medium full bodied, tangy acidity prevails from the black berry and plum fruit with notes of tobacco leaf and leather.

RM 88 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3831757

Secondo

Short Rib with Polenta, Tart Cherry Jus and Roasted Heirloom Carrots

Served with:

Villa Calcinaia “Vigna Bastignano” Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2015

This is a one of the three premium Villa Calcinaia's single vineyard designated wines - each 100% Sangiovese, which as Sebastiano explains, is especially 'transparent' in reflecting the unique terroir of each vineyard site.

Vigna Bastignano vineyard is rocky soil and produces spicy fruit that are low in tannins. Only 3,092 bottles were produced. 

The WOTN - Wine of the Night - perfectly paired with the short rib beef course, dark purple colored, full bodied, concentrated and firmly structured yet nicely balanced, black berry fruits with intense aromatics with spice, black tea, tobacco and leather with firm gripping tannins and lively acidity on the cloying finish. 

RM 93 points. 

Wine Advocate rated this wine 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3068996

Terzo

 Roasted Lamb Loin / Parsnip Puree / Bourbon Plum Glaze / Rapini

Served with:

Villa Calcinaia “Casarsa” Merlot IGT 2015

This 100% Merlot based wine is a Super Tuscan sourced from Villa Calcinaia estate grapes that were planted in 1967 by mistake - not intended to be a Merlot planting at the time since it was not a recognized varietal in the DOC appellation rules. As the vines matured, they were found to produce wonderful Merlot fruit, worthy of standing on its own in its own bottling and label. 

The parsnip puree was the to-die-for highlight of this dish! ... with the Bourbon Plum Glaze!

Over time Merlot became generally accepted as a common grape for Chianti regional wines.  

Dark garnet purple colored, medium full bodied, dense concentrated tangy blackberry and plum fruits with notes of spice, cedar, tobacco and leather  on a long moderate tannin laced finish.

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4177829 

Dolce

Crème Brûlée pana cotta with Gorgonzola and Walnut

Served with:

Villa Calcinaia Vin Santo del Chianti Classico DOCG 2011

This wine is held and aged for ten years before being released. Hence, the butter color at time of blending and production, has darkened to tea color by the time the wine is released. 

This dessert wine is a blend of the white grape varietals Trebbiano and Malvasia, together with a portion of the red grape Canaiolo. The blend for the 2010 vintage was 70% Trebbiano, 15% Canaille and 15% Malvasia.

The harvested grapes are dried naturally in the estate’s drying room for several months to allow the sugar content to concentrate to produce this traditional Tuscan dessert wine.  

By February the grapes have reached about 350/400 grams of sugar. They are then pressed and racked in tiny Slavonian 'caratelli' oak barrels for an extended 96 months.

This aging allows the sweet must to ferments for the period of eight to ten years with occasional refilling to restore the 'angel's share' that evaporates from the barrels before bottling. 

Amber, tea colored medium full bodied, rich concentrated intense, resinous aromas and flavors of caramel, hints of apricots, honey and mango fruits with smooth velvety tongue coating well balanced sweet finish. 

RM 92 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4128579

https://www.conticapponi.it/calcinaia/

http://www.italianvillage-chicago.com/

@unwindwine

@italianvlg

@jzgwine 

 

Dad's Day Father Son Tasting Birthyear Wines

Dad's Day Father Son Tasting Birth-year Wines 

On the eve of Father's Day, the whole family gathered for a family group photo and individual family photos so I pulled from the cellar birth-year wines for each of my three sons. 

For eldest son Ryan's 1982 birth-year, at forty years, there are very few bottles remaining as only the most ageworthy wines would last this long. The same, to a slightly less degree for son Sean's 1985 birth-year vintage wines. Youngest son Alec's 1990 birth-year vintage on the other hand was such a blockbuster, and, eight years less time elapsed, there remains numerous ageworthy selections with time left in their aging window (s). 

I talk in detail about the blockbuster 1990 vintage in this blogpost.
https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/10/parents-son-dinner-features-birth-year.html

The 1982 vintage was also a highly rated vintage, considered the 'vintage of the century' for Bordeaux wines at the time, following a drought of notable vintages and a series of lackluster vintages dating back to the the 1970, sans the 1978. The best top producers' labels remain in their the safe drinking window, especially those in larger format bottles which provide for longer aging of the wines.  

I found this 1982 Bordeaux in a small bottle, hence it was time to drink, and likely past its drinking window, which it was. The 1985 Napa was surprisingly intact and still in its drinking window. We did not get to the 1990 and will save it for another day. 

Château Duhart-Milon-Rothschild Pauillac Bordeaux 1982

This is another label we collect and hold many vintages of dating back to this release. We've written often in these pages about tasting vintage releases of this label. 

From a half bottle that I had put into the wine cooler near the kitchen and forgotten about, otherwise we would've tried this bottle a long time ago. The fill level was high shoulder, the cork was fully saturated and soft. Ryan was able to extract the cork 80% until the final portion separated. He was able to extract that remaining portion intact with the ahso two pronged cork puller. 

Note the price tag from original purchase showing $12.95, reduced from $14.95, from back in the mid-eighties. Current sale price for this label in standard format is $219 (K&L).

The color was dark garnet colored, just beginning to take on a rust hue, medium bodied with a slight amount of the backbone structure remaining, the fruit was gone leaving only a hint of what it might have been, with damp earth, cedar, pencil shavings and a bit of funky wet wood remaining. 

This was barely, but only slightly drinkable except for the adventure of trying an aged vintage wine, take that into account for this small format bottle and its provenance, perhaps. 

A standard size bottle and a large format would still be holding on, reaching the end of the drinking window as noted by two fellow CT'ers recently wrote about this vintage release wine:

"Another very nice bottle of this wine; certainly fully mature, but holding up well. The nose offered some dried plum and blackberry, mint, bell pepper, tobacco, damp earth. The palate has resolved tannins, still a bit of acidity, good balance and is overall tasty. I don't really see any upside here, but it should hold for a while yet,' ( jnewman77 wrote on 5/31/2022).

"Beautiful, luxurious and mature bouquet with earth, autumn forest and mushroom impressions. On the palate earth and autumn forest as well, beautiful acidity and a great length. Complex and luxurious wine,' (Zweder (who I follow), wrote on 5/8/2022).

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate gave this 94 points back in 2009 and said it was "close to full maturity at that time - a blockbuster was a sleeper of the vintage long before the Rothschilds invested so heavily in modernizing this estate as well as began making a stricter selection". Stephen Tanzer gave it 90 points, while Jancis Robinson gave it 15.5 of 20. K&L notes Neal Martin's Wine Journal gave it 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=56560

Freemark Abbey Bosché Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1985

For son Sean's birth-year, we pulled this 1985 Napa Cabernet. We know this label well having had more than a dozen vintages over the years. 

Ever since the principles of Freemark Abbey entered into a handshake deal with vineyard owner John Bosché, a San Francisco attorney, back in 1970, Freemark Abbey have been crafting a few hundred cases of Cabernet Sauvignon from this legendary vineyard. 

Located in the heart of the Rutherford Bench, the 21-acre vineyard Bosché Vineyard has been cited as one of the top ten vineyards in America. WineBid writes, This predominantly dry-farmed Cabernet Bosché continues year after year to produce one of the most distinctive wines in Rutherford, and remains one of our most sought-after releases. 

Freemark Abbey Bosché Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon was one of Napa Valley's first vineyard-designated wines.

We've collected this bottle dating back to this release and hold nearly a dozen vintage releases up to near recent years. The current release price for this label is now $180 per bottle for the 2018 at Binny's, Chicagoland Beverage Depot superstore.   

Wine buddy, Bill and Beth, and Linda and I have visited the Freemark Abbey Napa Valley winery together on numerous visits, and acquired bottles from the library collection there for special occasions. 

 

In 2009 we toured the winery estate library and acquired 1974 and 1978 anniversary vintage labels for a special anniversary celebration dinner that night across the road at the CIA (Culinary Institute of America), Greystoke Mansion.  

We opened a bottle of this vintage label together two years ago as part of our wedding celebration festivities. 

We then opened a bottle of this label almost exactly a year ago on 6/14/2021. Tonight's tasting and rating of this wine was consistent with that last opening when I wrote: "While initially musty and funky, this quickly opened to reveal its true native character and tasting profile. Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, complex but nicely integrated black berry and black cherry fruits were highlighted with notes of spicy cinnamon and clove with tones of cedar, cigar box, and dark mocha turning to long supple tannin laced tongue coating finish."

RM 90 points.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2021/06/family-reveal-dinner-calls-for.html

Again as before, tonight, the label, foil and importantly, the cork and fill level were all ideal, best to be expected in a 37 year old wine, the fill level was bottom of the neck, as shown. 

Still holding on, the immediate indication of its stability and drinkability was the dark blackish garnet color, medium full bodied, firm and tight, complex, the remaining black berry fruits were accented by predominant cigar notes with some cedar, spice and earth notes on the focused finish. 

RM 90 points. 

This release was awarded 90 points by Wine Spectator who wrote a consistent review in-line with our experience tonight, "Lean, tight and concentrated with firm black cherry, plum, currant, earth and cedar flavors that are intense and lively with a narrow, focused finish. Plenty of flavor on the aftertaste." 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=30977

Earlier, four years ago, I opened a bottle of this label, I wrote, "Incredible, amazing life left in this 33 year old, showing little sign of diminution, even at this age! Dark purplish garnet colored, medium full bodied, rich concentrated complex black berry and black cherry fruits with a subdued layer of soft cedar/camphor with cigar box and moderate acidity on the moderate tannin lingering finish."

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/02/otbn-2018_25.html

https://www.freemarkabbey.com/wine/rutherford/cabernet-bosche

https://twitter.com/FreemarkAbbey

Showing some modicum of restraint, we did not open the LaJota 1990 Howell Mountain Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. It likely has several years of life left and we'll look forward to opening it and sharing our experience at some time in the future. 

Signorella Hope's Cuvee at Marco's Kitchen

Signorella Hope's Cuvee at Marco's Kitchen La Grange (IL) Dinner

Friday night datenight, we dined at chic Marco's Kitchen in nearby suburban LaGrange (IL). Expecting to order seafood I took BYOB from our cellar a ultra-premium Napa Chardonnay. 

Marco's is a stylish, chic, trendy casual and comfortable dining experience with imaginatively crafted and artfully presented food, a basic but sufficient carefully selected winelist including WBTG offerings, with a reasonable BYOB policy, and professional friendly attentive service. The broad menu offers a selection of seafood dishes as well as duck, lamb, pork and beef entrees, with a range of salads and starter dishes.

We ordered from the menu the Chicken Liver, Shitake Mushroom Cognac Mousse Pate that was delicious, the highlight of the evening for me from our previous dining experience there last winter. To accompany this, I ordered from the WBTG selection (Wines By the Glass) the Böen California Pinot Noir from Joseph Wagner (son of) of Caymus fame, which was an ideal pairing.

Linda loved the Gezpacho with shrimp as her salad course. I ordered the Cous Cous & Orange Arugula Salad with dried mango, cucumber, orange, tomatos and pomegranate ginger vinagrette (above).

For our dinner entree we shared the Pan-Seared Mahi Mahi and Gulf Shrimp with Basmati Rice, Coconut Lime and Basil Broth with Crushed Macademias and blanched asparagus. 

 
The salad and seafood dishes were perfectly accented, paired with the Signorello Napa Chardonnay.

Signorello Hope's Cuvee Napa Valley Chardonnay 2016

As posted in an earlier blogposts, we discovered and acquired (the then current release vintage of) this wine during our visit to the Estate on Silverado Trail in Southeastern Napa Valley during our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2013. At that time I wrote about this label: "I am predominantly a red wine drinker and while I enjoy an occasional glass of white, most often with appropriate food, I don't normally get excited about a white wine. This chardonnay was the exception,  memorable and special."

(Former) Signorello Estate overlooking vineyards
and valley floor.

The Signorello winery sits at the very southern end of Napa Valley and has 43 acres of vineyards, including some of the oldest Chardonnay vines in all of Napa Valley - fruit from 37-year-old vines goes into his Hope’s Cuvée.

The magnificent Estate was destroyed in the fires that engulfed much of sections of Sonoma and Napa in 2017. Fires came down the foothills to the property that sat up the hill back from the highway.

The fire reached the winery and completely destroyed the hospitality center that also housed offices, a wine lab and a family residence upstairs. The adjacent  crush pad and stainless steel tanks survived intact along with the barrel cellar and equally if not most importantly, the vines of the adjacent vineyards. 

In the wake of the destruction from Napa Valley’s October 2017 Atlas Peak Fire, Ray Signorello vowed to rebuild. We're relieved to read about the Phoenix of Signorella Estate, rising from the ashes, literally, and being rebuilt, even grander and larger than before. Signorello said he viewed the tragedy as an opportunity to do something new and exciting and is rebuilding with a larger fermentation facility, wine caves and a stunning expanded hospitality center.

The winery has kept almost all of its team employed as an interim step toward returning to normalcy and they have been operating out of a modular building was brought in to serve as a temporary hospitality center.

The adjacent Darioush property nearby the sits at the valley floor closer to the highway and similarly situated properties were untouched.

Signorello "Hope's Cuvée" Napa Valley Chardonnay 2016

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate gave the 2015 release 98 points and said, "The best Chardonnay I have ever tasted from Ray Signorello has to be the 2015 Chardonnay Hope’s Cuvée." Vinous gave it 91 points.

This Hope's Cuvée Chardonnay was full bodied but nicely balanced and polished for very pleasant drinking. It is bursting with flavorful fruit with layers of peach and poached pear giving way to hints of honey, almond, nutmeg, vanilla and creamy soft spicy oak. There is very pleasant full mouth-feel with rich texture on the palate with a long lingering finish of sweet mellow oak.

Golden colored, full bodied, rich and concentrated caramelized citrus, honeysuckle, white peach, pear and melon notes with a touch of almond and brioche.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2806461

https://www.signorelloestate.com/

https://www.marcoskitchen.com/

Force Majeure Parabellum Coulée Rhone Blend 2018

Force Majeure Parabellum Coulée Columbia Valley Rhone Blend 2018 

For pairing with BBQ rib dinner we opened this big Syrah based Rhone blend from our wine club allocation shipments from producer Force Majeure.

We discovered, tasted and acquired this wine during our Force Majeure Vineyards Site Visit and Tasting as part of our Walla Walla Wine Experience 2018. We first met Force Majeure winemaker Todd Alexander and marketing, distribution and branding exec Carrie Alexander during the Chicago stop of their promotion tour in 2016 when we hosted them at Italian Village in Chicago. Since then we've acquired a respectable collection of Force Majeure wines, hence, they were one of our shortlist priority visits when we planned our Washington State, Columbia Valley wine trip.

Our visit to the Force Majeure estate vineyard in the Walla Walla Rocks AVA, was a highlight of our visit to the region, hosed by Todd's wife, Carrie Alexander who manages marketing and operations. Since then, they have purchased property at and planted vineyards at the North Fork of the Walla Walla river and have released their own Paxsa Brand and labels. Both Force Majeure and Paxsa brands focus on Rhone as well as Bordeaux varietals. 

Linda loved the sister label to this bottle, Force Majeure Parvata Red Blend 2015, that we took to Duck Inn Chicago unique dining experience BYOB which was a standout that evening. That bottle was another label that discovered and acquired during our Walla Walla appellation and estate visit. 

We tasted the next most recent vintage of this label, the Force Majeure Parabellum Coulée Red Blend 2019 for a special dinner last fall with son Alec. 

Tonight we opened the Force Majeure Parabellum Coulée Rhone Blend 2018.

This is from the Parabellum brand, the second-tier of Force Majeure wines, yet still produced with care to reflect the varieties and terroir and be approachable for early consumption and gratification, without constraints on blending. Parabellum and the rest of the brand are intended to "provide an opportunity to savor an authentic wine of distinction at a great value." To that end, Parabellum wines are unrestrained imaginative blends of both Bordeaux and Rhone varietals and offer good QPR.

While many of these blends are called GSM, a reference to common blend of Rhone varietals Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre, the blend of this release, contains northern and southern Rhone varietals, but is 90% Syrah, and 10% Mourvedre, a blend much to our liking since we're lovers of Syrah, one of our favored varietals. 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/10/force-majeure-vineyards-site-visit-and.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2659538

https://forcemajeurevineyards.com/wp/wines/parabellum/

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3979164 

Force Majeure Parabellum Coulée Columbia Valley Rhone Blend 2018

This is sourced from Force Majeure Estate Vineyards from both the Rocks region of Walla Walla and the estate vineyard on Red Mountain, from the Red Mountain AVA, in the Columbia River valley in central Washington State.

As its name suggests, it is actually neither a mountain nor is it composed of red earth. The area’s springtime proliferation of cheatgrass, which has a reddish color, actually gives the area the name, "Red" Mountain. 

The appellation is an anticline of the Yakima fold belt, a series of geologic folds that define a number of viticultural regions in the surrounding area on the eastern edge of Yakima Valley with slopes facing southwest towards the Yakima River. The terroir of soils, sunlit slopes exposure, and climate are ideal for the ripening of grapes. 

The steep upper slopes of Red Mountain, sit at 960 to 1,230 feet elevation and produce some of the most mineral-driven, tannic and age-worthy red wines of Washington. It is just about the hottest appellation with normal growing season temperatures commonly reaching above 90F. The soil is particularly poor in nutrients and has a high pH, which results in significantly smaller berry sizes compared to varietal norms. The low juice to skin ratio in smaller berries combined with the strong, dry summer winds, leads to higher tannin levels in Red Mountain grapes.

Red Mountain is relatively new to the fine wine scene. Force Majeure were pioneers in planting some of the very first vineyards on the steep, upper slopes of Red Mountain. The first wine pioneers to the region initially walked the land in the summer of 1972. They found a gently sloping sagebrush covered hillside that had been largely overlooked by both early settlers and local indigenous peoples. There were no roads, wells, power- lines or any other signs of civilization. 

Planted in those early days focused on carefully matching the optimal varietal and clonal selections, trellising and irrigation to the nine distinct soil types formed by the ancient Missoula floods, winds and volcanic activity. The result was a vineyard articulated into many small "micro-blocks," to meet the management demands of this unique and dynamic site. Due to the rough, rocky nature of the acreage and elevations ranging from 960 to 1,230 feet, mechanization is virtually impossible in the upper portion of Force Majeure, requiring true "farming by hand," while the lower blocks of the vineyard are comprised of deep, well-drained Warden soils. 

The Red Mountain AVA is the smallest appellation in the state. AVA status was achieved in 2001. Red Mountain now hosts approximately fifty-four vineyards covering more than 2300 acres, making Red Mountain one of the most densely planted AVA's with 57% of the 4,040 acres of the AVA currently planted. 

The climate and terroir boasts approximately 3,200 degree days but with significantly higher total acids than are typically found in this warm a region. It has 2 hours more sunlight per day during the growing season than Napa Valley and receives only five to six inches of annual rainfall a year.

The terroir coupled with the diversity of the vineyards results in versatility to grow a variety of fruit characterized by intensity, depth and concentration, complex flavors and fine tannins. The reds of the area tend to express dark black and blue fruit, deep concentration, complex textures, high levels of tannins and as previously noted, have good aging capabilities.

The producer website says this is a blend of 86% Syrah 14% Mourvèdre, wine reviewer Jeb Dunnuck writes its is a blend of 93% Syrah and 7% Mourvèdre. As shown above, the rear label of our bottle says 90% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre.

Dark inky purple plum colored, full bodied, round, textured, black berry, black raspberry and hints of blueberry fruits with cassis, spice, hints of pepper and black tea with notes of floral violets, Red Mountain minerality, and a firm full tangy tannin laced lingering finish. 

RM 93 points.  

 

This label release was awarded 93-95 points by Jeb Dunnuck. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3612601

https://twitter.com/ForceMVineyards 

https://forcemajeurevineyards.com/ 

@ForceMVineyards

 

Zaca Mesa Clydesdale Santa Barbara Santa Ynez Syrah 2016

 Zaca Mesa Clydesdale Santa Barbara County Santa Ynez Valley Syrah 2016

For midweek sipping with artisan cheeses and fresh fruits and nuts we opened this Santa Barbara County Syrah from the Santa Ynez Valley. We discovered, tasted and acquired this wine during our Zaca Mesa Winery and Vineyards Visit as part of our Santa Barbara County Santa Ynez, Santa Maria Valley Wine Experience last month. We joined their wine club and received this bottle as part of our first inaugural allocation shipment.

Zaca Mesa is a family and close knit group owned and operated winery with a storied history in Santa Barbara County. This label, Clydesdale Zaca Mesa Vineyards Syrah, pays homage to co-founder John Cushman's family’s historical middle name, Clydesdale.

I wrote in my detailed account of Zaca Mesa and our estate vineyard and winery visit about Cushman and a group of friends purchasing the land that would become Zaca Mesa in 1972. At that time, it was only the third winery to exist in Santa Barbara County. Through much experimentation to determine the best grape varietal (s) to match with the terroir - terrain, climate, soil, elevation, exposure - all that attributes of a site, they planted their first block of Syrah in 1978 (known as the Black Bear Block). 

Syrah emerged as the 'flagship' varietal of Zaca Mesa with over half of the vineyards eventually planted to the varietal, along with the other Rhone varietals that became predominant in the Santa Ynez Valley.

Zaca Mesa Syrah reflects the vineyard sites, producing fruit with medium acidity since Zaca Mesa is situated at the high elevations of the mesas in the valley at altitudes about 1,500 feet above sea level. That, along with the cool Pacific Ocean breezes that follow the transverse aligned mountain ranges and valleys that are perpendicular to the ocean shore, allows the grapes to mature and retain their all important acidity.

Producer notes about this label: The 2016 Clydesdale is a superb expression of Syrah from our estate vineyard. The core of black fruits are intertwined with notes of violet, tobacco, and leather. The voluminous texture cascades along your palate, carrying flavors of red plum, blackberry, and hints of toasted spice. This wine is impressive with depth and character, perfectly suited to age in your wine cellar for many years to come, or enjoy upon release.

Winemaker Bryden says, "I like a balance between strength and elegance," she said. "A core of black and red fruits mixed in with some earth and spice and structure as well. Part of the beauty of syrah is the structure of the wine. If you can get all that into one glass, you're doing a good job."

For this particular wine, harvest took place at the end of August and beginning of September 2016.

"It was a great vintage," Bryden said. "This wine is made of multiple blocks. With syrah, we have nine different clones of syrah on the property—different vine age, different root stalks—so they tend to ripen at different stages. That's where the range comes from."

This Syrah is sourced from five different blocks (along with a few sub blocks) from a south facing hillside of the vineyard. 

"I think the tannin profile is a little softer," she said. "We aged it a month longer than some of our reserves, and there is just a nice viscosity to the wine."

This was dark blackish garnet colored, more medium than full bodied, somewhat subdued core of black berry and plum fruits are accented by notes of cassis, tobacco, black tea, hints of soy and caramel on a moderate smooth finish. 

RM 91 points. 

 

Wine Enthusiast awarded this 94 points while Antonio Galloni of Parkers Wine Advocate gave it 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3249008

 

https://www.zacamesa.com/

Zaca Mesa Winery Twitter - @ZacaMesa_Wine

First Drop "Mother's Milk" Shiraz 2020

First Drop "Mother's Milk" Shiraz 2020

For a Sunday night dinner we ordered in pizza and opened this Barossa Valley Shiraz. We picked up this bottle from the email promotion from Wine Disount Center, vinchicago.com - easy and simple since they deliver curbside pickup just down the road from our house. 

From the vinchicago promotion mailer: "Recently named "Value Pick of the Week" by Wine Spectator, the 2020 Mother’s Milk is not just bold, but also impressively elegant. From 1998 through 2006-ish, Australian Shiraz was the hottest category in wine. This one shows that they still deserve your attention. There is so much to like about this wine. You will find yourself quickly pouring a second glass!"

This is from producer First Drop, founded in 2004, they produce single vineyard shiraz's sourced from distinct vineyard sites in the Adelaide Hills, McLaren Vale and Barossa.

They operate out of the First Drop Wines Cellar Door & Tapas Bar at The Home Of The Brave, housed within the walls of the historic striking 1930’s built distillery on the Provenance Barossa Precinct (previously the site of Penfold’s winery).

They have a broad portfolio, perhaps best known for their premium "Eden Valley" series sourced from the higher elevation above the Barossa Valley that "embrace the funk to make even more diverse expressions of Syrah that speak of their unique sites", and their ultra-super premium "Fat of the Land" series of Shiraz' that "showcase the sub regions of the Barossa, and the contrasting styles of Shiraz that can be made (t) here. One can make such varied expressions of Shiraz, due to the different meso-climates of each subregion, the elevation range, and the myriad of soil types that are to be found throughout the Barossa." 

They also produce some super ultra-premium labels of Cabernet Sauvignons from McLaren Vale, 'Dragon's Blood' and 'Votum', they cite as an ode to the Penfolds style, rich, intensely structured McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon, both promoted with a release price of $350AU. 

First Drop "Mother's Milk" Barossa Valley Shiraz 2020 

This release was awarded 94 Points by James Suckling and 92 Points by Wine Spectator

Nice easy sipping with pizza, I wouldn't save it for a grilled beefsteak dinner lacking elegance and polish. But hey, screw top simple and enjoyable pleasant sipping with a great QPR - Quality Price Ratio!

Dark garnet purple colored, medium full bodied, full round, dark plum, blackberry and black raspberry fruits with bramble, pepper, earthy spice, black tea and what Suckling describes as slate, with tangy acidity on a moderate firm tannin laced lingering finish.

 RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3996033

https://www.firstdropwines.com/

https://twitter.com/firstdropwines

@firstdropwines

Château du Tertre Grand Cru Classe Margaux 2011

Château du Tertre Grand Cru Classe Margaux 2011

With left over grilled ribeye beefsteak from the other night, I opened this classic Left Bank Bordeaux for dinner food and wine pairing. 

Château du Tertre is a Fifth Growth property in Margaux, one of the oldest properties not just in Margaux, but in the entire Left Bank dating back to 1143. The name, “Tertre,” refers to its geography, the word tertre means, “hill,” or, “rising ground," referring to the location, a couple km inland from the Gironde River estuary, the Margaux terroirs there are the highest, with one of the most elevated gravel outcrops of the Médoc.

The estate sits in the hamlet of Arsac, where it has historically been called “beautiful Tertre d’Arsac”, just 4 km south of the Chambres de Margaux in the Margaux village centre where we stayed during our Margaux Bordeaux region tour in 2019,  just a 1/2 km south of the village perimeter. 

The footprint of the 52 hectares, 125 acres of vineyards, has not changed much since the 1855 Classification when it was designated Margaux Grand Cru Classe. The graveled, sloping soils are planted to customary Bordeaux varietals - Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, with the majority of the vines planted near an ambient forest, which yields cooler temperatures and preserves the freshness of the wines.

The estate began to rise to prominence in the 1700's, when it was owned Pierre Mitchell of Bordeaux, known as a famous glassblower. Mitchell was known to have created the first jeroboam (a five liter bottle), and given his expertise in crafting glass bottles, it is likely that the first wines in Bordeaux were bottled at Château du Tertre.  

The Château du Tertre estate was very popular with the Dutch wine market and was acquired by Henri de Koenigswarter from the Netherlands before being taken over by the Cruse family, a famous négociant, in the 1900s.  

During the turbulent disruption of World War II, the estate fell into disrepair and its sterling reputation declined as a result. 

In 1961, the property was acquired by Philippe Gasqueton, the well-known owner of Château Calon Ségur in Saint Estèphe, who embarked on the long, intensive process of turning the estate around.  

1n 1997, Dutch businessman, Eric Albada Jelgersma bought the estate and invested in the large-scale overall restructuring, returning its former noble personality to the Chateau du Tertre. Since March 2021 the Helfrich family has taken over the property with the intent to continuing the tradition and pursuit of excellence.

The viticultural team is headed by Alexander Van Beek, who made some critical changes such as eliminating machine harvesting.  Frédéric Ardouin from Château Latour was hired as Technical Director and winemaker in 2008, and the property has been on the rise ever since with biodynamic transformation of the viticulture and rebuilding of the production facilities with new technology. Château du Tertre wines are known to be versatile, able to be enjoyed younger with one to two hours decanting and show improvement with 10 years of bottle age. 

 

Château du Tertre Grand Cru Classe Margaux 2011

 

This release was awarded 92 points by Wine Enthusiast and Jane Anson of Decanter.com, 91 points by James Suckling, 90 points by Wine Spectator, and 88 points by Robert Parker Jr., The Wine Advocate.

 

Dense dark garnet purple colored, medium bodied, floral notes with black berry fruits with notes of anise, black tea, earth and leather with supple tannins and well behaved acidity on the finish. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1362619 

http://chateaudutertre.fr/en/home/

 

https://twitter.com/tertre_gcc 

 

@Tertre_gcc