The James Geneva features wine friendly menu and fine wines

The James Restaurant Geneva (IL) features wine friendly menu and fine wine selection

Saturday afternoon lunch - a beautiful picture perfect Midwestern autumn day - we drove out to Geneva on the Fox River and dined at The James Restaurant, recently reopened under new ownership, formerly Fiore's which we've visited and featured previously in these pages.  

The James new restaurant and cocktail lounge, features a broad menu offering steaks from prime purveyor Allen Brothers, seafood and other assorted entrees and small plates ... and a Wine Spectator Award winning winelist, opened in May at 317 S. Third St., Geneva, the former location of Fiora’s, which closed in January.

The James is the creation of Geneva residents Chris and Gretchen Hupke who are leasing the space. Along with Gretchen's brother, Todd McWethy, they also own and operate McWethy’s Tavern at the Mistwood Golf Course in Romeoville, and McWethy’s Sports Bar in Bolingbrook. The James is partly named for their late father, James (Jim) McWethy, and partly too, for James Herrington, Geneva’s first settler, namesake to the nearby (James) Herrington Inn & Spa which we have also featured in these pages. 

The James occupies the quaint historic building on trendy bustling Third Street, Geneva, with a collection of stylishly decorated multi-colored dining rooms, the brightly lit sun-porch overlooking the patio outdoor seating area, a classic vintage library bar with pressed- tin-ceiling and marble top tables, and the wine cellar dining room on the lower level which is an operating wine cellar and has seating for up to 20 for wine themed special dinners. 

We were able to secure a table on the sun-drenched sun porch room, whose floor-to-ceiling glass walls overlook the 140-seat outdoor patio. 

The James' imaginative varied menu features creations from chef Steven Blackburn who previously headed up a sushi bar in West Hollywood. The meat menu selections offer beef sourced from premier purveyor Allen Brothers in Chicago, from an eight-ounce bavette and filet mignon to a hearty 24-ounce porterhouse, classic chicken Vesuvio, pork schnitzel, and a 16-ounce pork chop. The entree and small plate selections offer seafood selections such as grilled swordfish, Japanese style salmon sashimi, and shrimp shakshuka.

We ordered a medley from the small plates menu, the Lobster Agnolotti, the Coffee Charred Steak along with the Lobster Bisque and Apple and Pear Salad. 

Apple and Pear Salad - green apple, red pear, candied pecans, mixed greens with bleu cheese vinaigrette
Crab Bisque with Chive
Lobster Agnolotti - lobster tail, saffron cream sauce, brown butter
Coffee Charred Steak - Allen Brothers, Chicago skewered Prime beef, plum BBQ sauce, pea shoot

Everything was wonderful - the bisque was especially delectable and the Charred Steak skewers with the plum BBQ sauce was spectacular, and a wonderful pairing with the red wine (s) (despite having note of spice heat, which normally I would degrade for offsetting the pallet and discrimination for the wine).

A draw for us was the James' imaginative and carefully selected wine list with 90 wines by the bottle, wines by the glass, and a collection of half bottles. Their wine list won a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence for 2023.

For our wine accompaniment to our lunch we ordered a half bottle of the Vieux Telegraph Chateauneuf-du-Pape. We know this producer and wine well having visited the Chateau and Estate on a couple occasions.  

Our visit to the Vieux Télégraphe estate and meeting owner/winemaker Daniel Brunier (left) was a highlight of our Rhone Valley Wine Experience in 2019.

Notably, while the wine list features Domaine du Vieux 'Telegraph' Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhone (their quotation emphasis, not mine). They actually served Domaine du Vieux Telegraph, 'Telegramme', Chateauneuf-du-Pape. This is their 'second' wine, sourced from younger vines and is generally about half the price of the flagship grand cru. 

We brought this to our server's attention and eventually to the proprietor/owner Chris Hupke (below). Upon researching this further, he realized that while they ordered the flagship Vieux Telegraph label, they actually received from the distributor the Telegramme label, which they were subsequently serving. They hadn't caught this difference until I brought it to their attention.

This sparked an extensive in-depth friendly and convival conversation with Chris about our shared interests and experiences in fine wines, culminating in a cellar tour and visit to the wine room downstairs. 

Our lively discussion about wine finds and preferences and restaurant wine lists covered our shared love of Howell Mountain Cabernet's and lead to Bordeaux varietal selections from Washington State.

In recompense for the winelist switch/snafu and shortcoming in our red wine selection, Chris brought out a glass of a Washington State Red Mountain Cabernet from Walls Vineyard and Winery.

Our original selection:

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Télégramme 2018 

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe 'Telegramme', Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rhone 2018

As stated, we visited Vieux Télégraphe during our trip to Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the Southern Rhone River Valley back in 1998 and again in 2019. We hold Vieux Télégraphe wines dating back three decades to the early 1980's. 

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe has been run by the Brunier family for five generations dating back to 1891. The estate’s vineyards average 60 years of age on the Plateau of La Crau, a site known for growing Châteauneuf-du-Pape grape varietals.

The estate is named for the telegraph towers that sat on the site dating back to the early visual signal towers that were invented and deployed as far back as 1792. Lines of relay towers were built within line-of-sight of each other at distances of 5–20 miles. Tower operators would watch adjacent towers through a spyglass for signals produced by mechanical shutter arms and would pass the message on to the next tower. These early systems were faster and less expensive than horse drawn riders. These lines were a precursor of the electrical telegraph which would replace them half a century later.

The estate wines are known for their distinctive terroir signature of predominant minerality from filtering through the thick layer of large pebbles left behind when the Alpine glaciers melted, long before the Rhône Valley formed.

Winemaker (s): Frédéric & Daniel Brunier 

The blend for this release is 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 6% Mourvèdre and 4% Cinsault. 

Winemaker's Tasting Notes: Châteauneuf-du-Pape seriously dominated by Grenache, which confers very singular suppleness and roundness. Best savored young.

This is the second wine of Vieux Telegraphe. Mainly Grenache with Syrah, Mourvedre and Cinsault from mostly young vines but it does include grapes from 45 year old vines at Château La Roquette.

This release was awarded 92-93 points by James Suckling and 90-92 points by Wine Advocate.

Dark Ruby colored, medium-full bodied, classic brambly red and black raspberry and plum fruits with notes of gariggue, floral and spice from the Grenache, with hints of pepper on the moderate long, rich, ripe tannin finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3480040

http://www.vieux-telegraphe.fr/en/

Wall Vineyards 'Curiositas' Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

Chris served us a glass of this big full bodied, fruit forward, flavorful Cabernet. We happen to know this brand and label and have a case of other vintages in our cellar collection.

Ironically, or notably, we also knew this producer and label well, having visited the winery in Walla Walla during our Walla Walla Wine Experience back in 2018, where we discovered this label and acquired a case of it from the 2015 vintage. 

Our visit the winery was one of the highlights of that appellation visit. It was great fun to share, and educate our host about this label, the brand and its background and history of the producer, the estate and the vineyards.

Walls Curiositas Red Mountain Cabernet

Walls Winery Curiositas Columbia Valley Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

With Mike Martin, Owner Walls Vineyards

We discovered and acquired this wine during our visit to the producer during our recent Walla Walla Wine Experience. It was our favorite of the portfolio of wines tasted with Mike Martin, owner/producer Walls Vineyards and Winery.

This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Red Mountain AVA in central Washington.

As I wrote in an earlier blogpost almost four years ago to the day, this was my favorite of the flight that we tasted at the winery. Of course I tend to favor Bordeaux varietals and found this especially appealing.

The fruit for this is sourced from the Obelisco Vineyard on the higher slopes of the Red Mountain AVA. The vines get increased exposure to the sun and are planted in higher density to further stress the grapes. The result is a wine of great complexity but one that is elegant and lush, yet subtle with tones the winemaker describes as possessing 'freshness that evokes a Margaux-styled fragrant' Cabernet'.

From our Walls Winery producer visit report when we tasted and acquired the 2015 vintage release.

The Walls Curiositas Red Mountain Cabernet 2015

2015 Curiositas is an elegant, complex and lush, yet subtle, wine. Its tone of freshness evokes a Margaux-styled fragrant Cabernet Sauvignon.

Sourced from the Obelisco Vineyard, high in the Red Mountain AVA where the vines get full exposure to all the elements.

“It is beautifully situated, with more vines doing less work, and planted with higher density,” says winemaker Ali. “It lends itself to complexity so how could we not take advantage of that?”

Chris served us the 2018 release of this label. It was bigger, more vibrant and expressive than the 2015 vintage we hold in our cellar that we are accustomed to.

Bright purple garnet colored, it was medium-full bodied with a firm gripping backbone structure with glycerine legs clinging to the glass, the polished elegant tannins were smooth and silky that it made for enticing casual sipping - bright red and black fruits accented by bright expressive notes of menthol, spice and creme de cassis, with notes of tobacco leaf and subtle vanilla and oak. 

 

Jeb Dunnuck gave this 97 points and like Robert Parker's Wine Advocate talks about this label's 'well-integrated tannins, solid grip, coupled with a swath of fresh acidity that delivers muscular structure' but then talks about it being 'light footed through the long finish'.

RM 93 points.

Jeb Dunnuck, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate gave this  “Editor’s Choice" and rated it "Extraordinary (95-100 pts.) "

331 Cases were produced.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3873099

https://www.thewallsvineyards.com/

 

We enjoyed The James so much we've already signed up for their upcoming winemaker producer dinner next week.  

https://thejamesgeneva.com/

@PassionatePour1

James Photo of the Bar

RPM Seafood Chicago Dinner

RPM Seafood Chicago Dinner

I attended a business partner special event for Chicagoland CxO's at RPM Seafood Steakhouse overlooking the Chicago River in the city. 

For the group dinner, they served from the extraordinary extensive deep winelist a red and a white to accompany the starters and our dinner entree selections. They graciously offered the opportunity to select something from the winelist but their basic chosen selections were fine, absolutely suitable for the occasion. 

I chose for my entree the Wild Alaskan Halibut with Capers and Brown Butter (below). It was delicious and ideally paired with the Sancerre wine. It would have been much better had it been served hot rather than barely warm.

Fellow diners chose these other seafood dishes, the Butter Poached Lobster with Lemongrass and Ginger, 

(above) and the Charcoal-Grilled Black Bass with Moroccan Spices, Salsa Verdes shown below.

For the white wine course, which was most widely selected for the majority who chose seafood dishes, they served from the winelist this French Loire Valley Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc. 

Domaine Vacheron Sancere 2020

The Vacheron vineyards lie near the village of Sancerre and have been in the family for nine generations. The domaine is run by two cousins, the Messieurs Vacheron. Both have sons studying viticulture to carry on the family tradition. 

The vineyards cover 34 hectares with two principal soil types; "silex" and "caillotte" or chalk. 

Winemaker Notes - "A vibrant, 100% organic/biodynamic Sauvignon Blanc from a mix of flint and chalk soils in the heart of Sancerre. Aromas suggest grapefruit zest and gunflint; in the mouth, the wine is pure and fresh, with plenty of mineral energy and citrus-inspired flavors. This is classic Sancerre—limpid and clean, with lots of freshness and lovely energy."

This was awarded 92 points by Wine Enthusiast, and 90 points by Vinous. 

Vinous wrote in describing this wine, "Most producers can only dream of an “entry-level” wine that's this good" and I certainly agree. The broad winelist offers this label, and another premium Domaine Vacheron, "Les Romains" from the same producer for more than two times the price.

Straw, light butter colored, medium light bodied, refreshing, elegant, delicate, polished and superbly balanced flavorful white fruits with mineral, flint and whisper of citrus with well behaved tangy acidity.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4036789

 

For the red wine drinkers, also served from the winelist was this French Southern Rhone Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Saint-Galet, 2019

This Saint-Galet's 2019 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a blend of 80% Grenache, 12% Mourvèdre and 8% Syrah. 

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, ripe black and red bramble fruits accented by herbs, pepper with hints of rosemary and mint with soft sweet tannins and tangy acidity on the moderate finish.

RM 88 points. 

Nice QPR in this easy sipping modest bold red.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4070252

 

 

Roger Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservé 2007

Roger Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservé 2007

I finished of the remains of another Chateauneuf-Du-Pape from the cooler and enjoyed it so much, I opted to open another CDP with leftover beefsteak. My mood for this appellation was bolstered by memories of our trip to the region, stirred by having a limited release premium bottle Chateau La Nerthe at dinner the other evening, and the (very) late, delayed posting of one of our events during that trip. Just yesterday I finally posted a note about our lunch in Bedarrides Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

This wine was rated 92 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, Jeb Dunnuck, Wine Spectator and Vinous - a rare occasion of absolute concensus amongst four leading wine critics.  

It is a blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% Cinsault CDP varietals.

Consistent with my last tasting of this wine going on just two years ago, at fourteen years, this 2007 vintage release may be at the apex of its drinking profile and window. The fill level, label and cork were perfect.

Classic Châteauneuf-du-Pape profile and characteristics, minus the black pepper notes which are suppressed and replaced by notes of lavender and floral.

Deep, dark ruby/purple colored, medium to full-bodied, black berry and black currant fruits with licorice, black tea, notes of vanilla bean, roasted herb, forest floor and meaty aromas with smooth tangy black cherry notes, licorice and smoky minerals lingering on a moderate tannin laced finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/barcode.asp?iWine=634331

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/09/roger-sabon-chateauneuf-du-pape-cuvee.html

Roger Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservé 2007

Roger Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservé 2007 for BBQ Rib Dinner

Almost a complete and accurate replay of an earlier tasting of this wine, we opened this to serve with barbecue ribs.

While somewhat subdued the first evening upon opening, I reopened it the next evening and it was more expressive,  bigger and more complex with more pronounced fruits. 

This wine was rated 92 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, Jeb Dunnuck, Wine Spectator and Vinous - a rare occasion of absolute concensus amongst four leading wine critics.  

This is a blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% Cinsault CDP varietals.

As written in previous tasting, classic Châteauneuf-du-Pape profile and characteristics, minus the black pepper notes which are suppressed and replaced by notes of lavender and floral.

Deep, dark ruby/purple colored, medium to full-bodied, black berry and black currant fruits with licorice, black tea, notes of vanilla bean, roasted herb, forest floor and meaty aromas with smooth tangy black cherry notes, licorice and smoky minerals lingering on a moderate tannin laced finish. 

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/barcode.asp?iWine=634331

 

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau 2013

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau 2013

Linda prepared a leafy herbaceous red sauce with spaghetti and meatballs and I opened this Southern Rhone red blend as a complementary pairing.

Our visit to Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe was a highlight of of our tour of Châteauneuf-du-Pape year before last. Proprietor Daniel Brunier was very hospitable and generous with his time hosting our tour of the domaine. 

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is not only a winery but also an art gallery with a live exhibit of numerous artworks throughout the chai, production facility, cellars, and tasting room and hospitality center.

The wine was surprisingly bright and expressive matching well with the red sauce and spicy meatballs. 

This is a classic CDP blend of 65% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Mouvedre and 5% Cinsault. 

Produced from a blend of 65% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre and 5% Cinsault.
Read more at:https://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/wine-tasting-note/?vintage=2013&wine=Domaine%20du%20Vieux%20T%E9l%E9graphe%20Ch%E2teauneuf-du-Pape%20La%20Crau

Produced from a blend of 65% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre and 5% Cinsault.
Read more at:https://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/wine-tasting-note/?vintage=2013&wine=Domaine%20du%20Vieux%20T%E9l%E9graphe%20Ch%E2teauneuf-du-Pape%20La%20Crau

This got 92 points from both Wine Spectator and Vinous. Robert Parker's Wine Advocate gave it 90 points.

Garnet colored with a bit of opacity and a slight brownish tinge, medium bodied, bright floral perfume notes predominate with tangy smokey cherry fruits with pepper, spice, licorice and a layer of tobacco on the lingering dusty acid laced moderate tannin laced finish. 

RM 91 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1937705

http://www.vieux-telegraphe.fr/en

  

Domaine de Beaurenard "Cuvée Boisrenard" Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2004

Domaine de Beaurenard (Paul Coulon et Fils) "Cuvée Boisrenard" Châteauneuf-du-Pape Boisrenard 2004

For a quiet Christmas eve at home together, Linda prepared BBQ ribs and I pulled from the cellar this Châteauneuf-du-Pape as an accompaniment.

Domaine de Beaurenard Châteauneuf-du-Pape estate vineyards have been in the same family for 7 generations. Domaine de Beaurenard dates back to 1695 when was it was known by the name “Bois Renard.” 

Domaine de Beaurenard began making wine under the current branding in 1929 and remains a family run estate managed by Frederic Coulon and Daniel Coulon with sons Antonin and Victor Coulon becoming increasingly involved in managing the property. They were featured on the cover of and in a coverage article in Wine Spectator Magazine in November 2018. 

Domaine de Beaurenard has 32 hectares (2.2 acres = 1 hectare) of vines in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation, 28 hectares in red wine grapes and 4 hectares for making white Châteauneuf-du-Pape wine. 

The vines are located in 25 separate parcels with much of their Grenache planted in the Cabrieres lieu-dit. Domaine de Beaurenard also owns 15 hectares of vineyards in the Cotes du Rhone Villages, and 62 hectares of vines in the Rasteau AOC.  

The vines are dispersed across the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation with plantings in the Beau Renard, le Bois de la Ville, Cansaud, la Cerise, Colombis, la Crau, la Gardine, la Nerthe, la Pied Long and le Pradel lieux-dits.

The estate tasting room sits on the southern outskirts of the village of  Châteauneuf-du-Pape on the main route leading into town.

Domaine de Beaurenard grows all 13 Rhone grape varieties allowed by the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation (AOC) regulations for use in their red wines, the primary grapes used in the blend being Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault and tiny amounts of varietals Counoise, Muscardin, Terret and Vaccarese. 

Some of the old vines of Grenache date back over 100 years.

Domaine de Beaurenard produces 4 red Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines, and 2 white Chateauneuf du Pape wines as well as wines from the Cotes du Rhone and Rasteau appellations. 

The primary label, Domaine de Beaurenard Châteauneuf-du-Pape is produced from a blend of 70% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah with 4% Cinsault, the rest of the blend is from assorted grape varieties sourced from vines that average close to 50 years of age.

This is the premium flagship label, Domaine de Beaurenard Cuvee Boisrenard. It is produced from a blend of 60% old vine Grenache and the other appellation approved grape varieties. The vines range in age from 60 to more than 100 years of age.

I write extensively about the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation and its history and regulations in our blogpost from our visit to the area and the nearby estates. 

On average, close to 1,500 cases are produced of this label each year. 

Domaine de Beaurenard (Paul Coulon et Fils) "Cuvée Boisrenard" Châteauneuf-du-Pape Boisrenard 2004 

I still recall I first discovered and tasted this wine during my first visit to Châteauneuf-du-Pape back in 1998. This wine was first produced with the 1990 vintage release. We also still hold several bottles of that inaugural 1990 vintage, birthyear of son Alec that we're holding for a suitable family occasion.

This 2004 release got 94 points from Wine Spectator, 91-93 points from Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, 90 points from  Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and 89 points from Wine Enthusiast. The recent 2016 vintage release got 96 points from Wine Spectator. 

Winemaker notes for this release: "Parcels of old vines 60-100 years in age, planted in soils of great character and complexity, provide the grapes for this wine. They are picked when fully mature and meticulously sorted by hand to further enhance concentration. These old parcels, in which different varieties are planted together, embody the symphony of 13 varieties, though Grenache predominates."

This is likely drinking at the apex of its profile and will not likely improve further with aging. This was dark garnet and inky purple colored, medium full bodied, nicely balanced black cherry, currant and blackberry fruits with notes of tobacco, toast, spice oak, black tea and hints of cassis and pepper on a smooth lingering moderate tannin finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=176522

http://www.beaurenard.fr/indexgb.htm

 

Grand Veneur Les Origins CDP 2006

Domaine Grand Veneur "Les Origines" Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2006

Linda prepared bbq ribs and scalloped potatoes with grilled asparagus and I pulled from the cellar this vintage Châteauneuf-du-Pape to accompany our dinner.

Domaine Grand Veneur is a 170-acre estate based in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, in the Southern Rhone Valley. The estate is at the northern edge of the appellation on the southernmost outskirts of the city of Orange. It has been owned and operated by the Jaume family since the early 19th century and is run by Alain Jaume and his two sons.

In addition to the family’s vineyards in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, they also have parcels in Cotes du Rhone and Lirac, the appellation on the other side of the Rhone River. Grand Veneur produces red and white wines, and the family also has a negociant business called Alain Jaume & Fils. Robert M. Parker Jr. has called Grand Veneur “one of the best run estates in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

We hold a half dozen releases of this label dating back to the turn of the century.

This label release got 94 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Wine Enthusiast and 90 points from Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar. 

This is a blend of 50% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 30% Mourvèdre, the three primary varietals that are required to be in the blend according to Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation rules. 

I write about the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation in our blogpost from our visit to the region in 2019.

Domaine Grand Veneur "Les Origines" Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2006 

This is dark garnet colored with a slight tinge of purple. Medium-full bodied the dense firm black berry, black currants and black cherry fruits are accented by notes of graphite, licorice, cola and what several of the critics refer to as 'smoked meats', and hints of tar, turning to tangy tight tannins on the lingering finish. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=467202

Vieux Telegraph CDP 2010 with Grilled Ribs

Vieux Telegraph CDP 2010 with Grilled Ribs

Coronavirus shut-in dinner, Linda grilled BBQ ribs and baked potatoes so I pulled from the cellar favorite bbq rib pairing, Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

Tonight, we opened a favorite CDP from Vieux Télégraphe in remembrance of our visit to the estate and meeting Daniel Brunier during our visit to the appellation last summer. 

 

Our Vieux Télégraphe visit was certainly a highlight of our trip to the Luberon and Rhone Valley.

I probably should've held this as it should age for three decades or more, and I almost opened a '96 Beaucastel, but I couldn't resist opening this in tribute to producer Daniel Brunier and his artwork, as well as his generous hospitality hosting us there.

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe "La Crau" Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate awarded this release 97 points and said "the 2010 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape is one of the all-time great Vieux Telegraphes I have tasted in the last 3+ decades. I believe it is even superior to the 2007."

This also got 96 points from Jeb Dunnuck and Decanter and Wine Spectator and 94 points from Vinous and Wine & Spirits.  

In 2012 Parker wrote, "More massive than I remember from last year, it has put on considerable weight and intensity. Forget it for 3-4 years, and drink it over the following 25-30 years."

Jeb Dunnuck said, "this will not be a wine for instant gratification and needs a solid 5-6 years of bottle age; it should keep for upwards of three decades."

This also got 96 points from Jeb Dunnuck and Decanter and Wine Spectator and 94 points from Vinous and Wine & Spirits.  

 

In 2016, wine writer critic Jeb Dunnuck gave a seminar at the Hospice du Rhône event in Paso Robles. This non-profit organization has long been a supporter of Rhône varieties from around the globe, and Dunnuck wrote "I continue to think it’s one of the best wine events in the World." 

The title of this seminar was “The Intricacies of Châteauneuf du Pape”, and he put the wines together with the idea to show the differences between rolled stones terroirs and sandy terroirs, as well as highlight the differences between traditional and modern wine making techniques.

He chose this 2010 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape LatCrau, one of four wines to highlight classic, traditional Châteauneuf du Papes. He wrote, "(This wine) is about as classic as they come. Dark fruits, lots of minerality, ripe herbs and licorice all emerge from this full-bodied, ripe beauty."

So, here at ten years one might think this is at the apex of its drinking window. I believe it probably will be at its prime in another five or even ten years at it seemed a bit tight and closed.   

It’s dark garnet colored, slightly opaque, full bodied, dense concentrated, complex black cherry and black currant fruits, black olives, licorice, spice and crushed pepper tones with hints of tobacco, magnificent 'legs' of structured, textured tannins yet smooth and approachable on the finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1220964

http://www.vieux-telegraphe.fr/en/

 

Château Mont Redon CDP 2014

Château Mont Redon Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2014 at Historic Gaslight Club at Chicago O'hare

A midweek business dinner meeting with a colleague laying over at O'Hare Airport, we dined at the Gaslight Club at the Airport Hilton Hotel. The Gaslight Club is a Chicago institution dating back to the 1950's when a group recreated the historic Chicago speakeasy's from roaring twenties and prohibition eras on Chicago's Gold Coast. Over the next decade Clubs opened in New York, Washington, Paris and this O'hare club in 1973. In 1956 the New York Club opened it's doors in a plush old mansion where Elizabeth Taylor was New York's favorite Gaslight Girl and filmed scenes there for the movie 'Butterfield 8', for which she won an Academy Award. Today, O'hare is the only remaining club, but it retains that old ambiance with its rustic decor and a live entertainment, tonight a piano singer.

For a upscale premium steak house, the Gaslight Club winelist is minimalist with but a few selections from which to choose - twelve Cabernets, five French, three Italian and Pinot Noir, and four Merlot and Red Burgundies, a single Zinfandel and Petit Syrah. Hoping to order a Bordeaux with our steak dinners, I selected a St Emilion but rejected the bottle when it in fact was a lesser satellite St Emilion appellation upon presentation. 

Hence I opted for this Châteauneuf-du-Pape, not my first choice for grilled prime steak but it served the bill. 

Château Mont Redon Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2014

I visited Château Mont Redon in Châteauneuf-du-Pape during my Rhone Wine Experience in 1998. 

Château Mont-Redon Vineyard

Château Mont-Redon owns 186 hectares in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation, of which 100 are planted with vines. The vineyards are ideally sited with classic Châteauneuf-du-Pape terroir,  “diluvium alpin” soil and the noted Châteauneuf-du-Pape “galet’s” or round, heat absorbing pebbles that have been shaped and polished over thousands of years by the Rhône River and spread over time along the appellations high plains. 

In some portions of the vineyard this layer can exceed 2 meters in depth forcing the vines roots deep in search of the layer of red clay that lies beneath. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre grown in these conditions produce wines that are generous, powerful, tannic and concentrated. Mont Redon is sited on the highest plateaus of the appellation where it captures the Mistral dry southern winds that blow up the river valley from the Mediterranean. The Mistal winds serve to dry the vines and the soil reducing the chance of fungus or rot. To minimize disturbance to the vines from the wind, they are trimmed low to the ground as shown in the picture.

The Rhône River valley soils are ideal for increasing the aromatic character of Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvèdre - the primary grape varietals in the CDP blend. We visited Châteauneuf-du-Pape again just this summer. 

Mont Redon vinifies each varietal separately, then ages 50% of the wine in small oak barrels in the cellars for 12 months with the remainder remaining in cask. The wines are then blended and aged an additional 4 months prior to bottling.

The Mont Redon Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a blend of all 13 varietals authorized within the appellation including primary Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvedre.

Winemaker's Notes: Inky hue violet deep violet rim. Intense nose with red fruit aromas combined to complex smokiness. Palate with tight and focused tannins. Enjoyable now but require few years of bottle maturation to fully integrate aging notes. Very elegant and refined finish.

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, black berry and black cherry fruits accented by notes of black pepper, smoke, hints of tobacco leaf and leather. 

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2319846

https://www.chateaumontredon.com/en

https://www.gaslightclubs.com/

Parents-Son Dinner features Birth Year Wine of the Year

Parents-Son Dinner features Birth Year Wine of the Year

Visiting son Alec and his fiance' Vivianna in New York City for the weekend, we took a couple of very special wines from Alec's birth year. We drank the first bottle, Château Calon-Ségur that we took BYOB to Bobo French Wine Dine Experience on Friday night.

Tonight, Alec and Viv were preparing dinner and to celebrate their engagement and the occasion, we took from our home cellar a very special bottle that I acquired upon release for his birth year. The 1990 vintage was a very unique year in the release of vintage wines in that three times, the Wine Spectator Wine of the Year was from that vintage year.

In 1993, the WS Wine of the Year was Caymus Special Select, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 1990. In 1994, the WS Wine of the Year was Chateau Gran Vin Latour Pauillac Bordeaux, from the 1990 vintage. In 1995, the ‘Red Wine of the Year’ by Wine Spectator magazine was Penfold's Grange, 1990. 

This is testimony to the fact that 1990 was a blockbuster vintage in all three hemispheres' top wine regions - US Napa Valley, France Bordeaux and Australia. Someone want to collect a birthyear vintage wine for a given year has several options from which to select. For this year, any one of these three regions offered top rated wines!

Tonight's bottle was part of an OWC - Original Wood Case of the 1990 Penfold's Grange that I picked up on release back in 1993. I actually purchased it a Berry Brothers & Ruud in London during one of my very frequent monthly trips there. In those days, they had a wine shop in Terminal Three at London Heathrow Airport. I purchased and hand carried the case of wine on the plane enroute home, and have stored it in our home cellar ever since.

For dinner, Alec and Viv prepared ribeye steak with wine reduction mushroom sauce, grilled diver sea scallops, asparagus and pomme frites.

For the starter wine, they opened a Orin Swift Abstract California Red Wine 2016

Penfolds Grange Shiraz 1990

For the main beef entree course, I served the Penfolds Grange. Readers of this blog know we drink a lot of Australian Shiraz' and that we like them big and bold. This Aussie Shiraz was a totally different profile than the usual shiraz we encounter. Naturally, this is an extraordinary wine that is in a totally different class, with a totally different profile than the once a week, once-a-month, or even the once-a-year wines that we drink. This is one of those very special occasion, or even once in a lifetime wines. Of course, this wine sells for more than $500, a price-point higher than we normally spend on once a year, once a month or other wines.

Grange is arguably the most prestigious and most historic, famous wine from Australia, first released back with the experimental vintage release in 1951. For its first four decades, the label was called Penfold's Hermitage Grange. With this 1990 release, the Hermitage moniker was removed and thereafter it is simply known as Grange.

The fruit for Grange is sourced from south central Australia Barossa Valley, Clare Valley and Coonawarra. The 1990 is one of the top Granges ever produced. The vintage year was an ideal completely trouble-free growing season that enabled the grapes to ripen perfectly and to be harvested at the perfect time under ideal conditions. The producer says the 1990 Penfolds Grange is one of the best ever, with the potential to eventually rival the classic vintages of 1955, 1962 and 1971. It should be aged carefully for a minimum of ten years and preferably for 25 to thirty years.

The blend of the 1990 vintage is 95% Shiraz and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. It was aged 18 months in new American oak hogsheads.

The fill level was proper and appropriate for its age, the cork was perfect, and of course the foil and label were perfect as it was still packaged in the original tissue and OWC - original wood case. 

Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, flawless, elegant, polished, harmonious, perfectly balanced, silky smooth flavors of concentrated black berry and black raspberry fruits with notes of vanilla, licorice, spice, black truffles and oak with hints of spice and cedar turning to fine grained tongue puckering tannins on the long lingering finish.

RM 95 points.

Wine Spectator gave this 98 points, James Halliday 97 points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 95 points, and Jancis Robinson gave it 18 out of her twenty point scale. 

James Halliday said it was 'destined to be one of the greatest Granges'. Wine Spectator called it  'magnificent, exotic, a veritable cascade of opulent flavors'. The Rewards of Patience - Fifth Edition (2004) called it Outstanding and projected its Drinking Window from now to 2040. Southcorp Wines said, 'The 1990 vintage was the kind that winemakers only expect to see once or twice in an entire career'.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=6295

https://www.penfolds.com/

https://twitter.com/penfolds

@penfolds


La Fine du Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf du Pape 1988

After dinner, Alec opened this special extremely limited release Chateau La Nerthe La Fine 1988.

We discovered, tasted, and Alec acquired this wine during our visit to the Château La Nerthe estate this summer.

La Fine de Château La Nerthe comes exclusively from the distillation of white wine in bottles of the Château. White wine is aged in bottles in the cellars before being tasted and distilled.

Château La Nerthe perform a triple distillation to obtain the finest and delicate aromas possible. They seek the spirit of their old white wines that make the reputation of Château La Nerthe. By its origin, its extraction, its requirement and its refinement of 10 years minimum in oak casks, the Fine of the Castle La Nerthe is the expression of the exceptional finest spirit of their wines.


Château La Nerthe have been producing these fine wines in the true tradition of fine wine distillation in Châteauneuf du Pape since this, their first vintage, 1988.

Tea honey colored, full bodied, delicious, smooth, harmonious, nicely balanced.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3330760

http://www.chateaulanerthe.fr/