Amarone Amarone

Amarone Amarone casual quaint Italian dining NYC

In NYC for team meetings, we dined at Amarone, a quaint casual neighborhood Italian restaurant on Ninth Avenue between the Hell's Kitchen restaurant district and the theatre district. 

Amarone serves traditional classic Italian dishes and offers a basic modest Italian wine centered winelist. I don't know if it's fallout from the Covid disruptions or what, but even the limited two page wine list, the number of selections actually available was limited to perhaps single digits. 

No less than five of my selections were not available, and I was offered a modest Chianti Classico table wine. That left a handful at best of remaining options, one Ultra-premium Antinori Tignanello, and this Amarone. At least this was a DOCG classified label and was moderately priced - hence the obvious choice. 

For our entrees, two ordered menu pasta selections, and two of us ordered from two daily specials, a pork chop or a veal chop. I opted for the veal chop in a cheese sauce with spinach and roasted potatoes. 

Both dishes were large generous portions in were dramatic artistic presentations, as was the caprese starter, all shown below. 

Salvalai Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Classico 2016

This is from Salvalai, who have been been producing estate wines since 1870 from the grapes grown in the vineyards on the hills overlooking the Verona shore of historic Lake Garda. Salvalai makes wines from the popular Ripasso to the inimitable Amarone, as well as three "Classico" wines of the Verona area (Soave, Bardolino and Valpolicella) .

Salvalai was one of the first wineries in the area to successfully export its wines beyond Italy's borders in the late '60s.

Produced in the classic Valpolicella method and style, this is a blend of the classic traditional grape varieties made up of 70-75% Corvina Veronese, 20% Rondinella and 5% Rossignola e Negrara. 

The grapes are sourced from estate vineyards, the twelve acre Vejo vineyard vines exceed 20 years of age, with distinctive terroir of particular soil and climatic, excellent east-west exposure with natural ventilation provided by the cool breezes coming from the nearby Mount Baldo and a mild climate due to the beneficial influences of Lake Garda.

The twenty five acre Sole Vineyard has rich alluvial soil with great exposure of the vines, located in a narrow valley, the vineyard receives a long and consistent exposure by the sun. 

Only perfectly unblemished and dry clusters are selected for the Amarone blend, harvested 1-2 weeks earlier than those for the Valpolicella wine and subjected to the ancient grape drying practice. They are left to dry in selected well-aired locations, called “fruittai”, to avoid being attacked by mold until the end of January. 

By the end of the drying period, the grapes have lost 30-40% of their weight, and their concentration of sugar, an indispensable element during the following fermentation stage to ensure a noteworthy alcoholic level has increased. Maceration is carried out on contact with the skins for a period of 20-30 days, after drawing off the lees, the product is fermented in steel vats, then matured three years and further aged 12 months in large barrels (Slavonian oak) and 30% in small casks, barriques and tonneaux (French oak), finally, prior to the release, matured for at least 6-8 months in the bottles.

The result is intense, concentrated big round ripe fruit forward wines, an acceptable pairing for our food entrees, but a bit intense, not for the feint of heart.

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, sharp intense, concentrated ripe fruits accented by raisin, smoke, notes of creosote and fig with long warm length on the finish. 

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3901523

http://www.salvalai.it/

http://www.amaroneristorantenyc.com/

Acinum Amarone and Charles Heidseick

Vintage Acinum Amarone and Charles Heidseick birthyear wines for family dinner

As we approach the arrival of scores of friends and family for a weekend full of wedding celebration festivities, we were hosted by our in-laws for a family dinner at their home in Westport, CT.  From our cellar collection selections that I brought to CT for the events, I took two bottles of Alec's birthyear vintage wines for the occasion, a Champagne and an Amarone. 

Charles Heidsieck Brut Millésimé Champagne 1990

We tasted a bottle of this a few months ago for Father's Day with Alec and Vivianna. 

This vintage release was awarded 97 points from Wine Spectator and 94 points from Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar.

I blogged about that tasting at that time when I wrote, "This was a delightful surprise showing and drinking well, meeting all my expectations for this bottle. I was a bit concerned when upon opening and releasing the cork under pressure, the seeming pressure and resulting 'pop' were less than expected. Never-the-less, as hoped, the foil, cork, label, fill level and resulting wine were all ideal, showing no signs of diminution from aging. 

Amazing, impressive life left in this 31 year old vintage Champagne. 

The color was dark gold colored with intense, complex, dry, finely integrated layers of zesty citrus fruits accented by notes of roasted almonds and paine grille with hints of fresh dough, smoke, and pineapple with a long bright vibrant finish. 

RM 92 points.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2021/06/fathers-day-grilled-steak-wine-dinner.html

Acinum Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 1990

Traditional Amarone della Valpolicella is from the Veneto region, located in north east Italy, in the foothills of the Lessini Moutains north of Verona. Valpolicella and Amarone della Valpolicella are some of the country’s most famous fine wines. They are produced primarily from the Corvina grape. Directly after harvest, the grapes are air dried through a process called “appassimento”, which allows them to shrivel into raisins. This concentrates the sugar and flavors in the grapes, producing a distinctive and full-bodied wine well-suited to aging.  

   

Uncharacteristically, my cellar notes do not show when or where this bottle was acquired. Similarly, Cellartracker has little data of others purchasing or tasting this wine - rare given its 10 million bottle inventory and 100,000 tasting notes.

At thirty one years, this was past its prime but still within its acceptable drinking window, showing its age in the color and starting to lose the fruit flavors to somewhat musty non-fruit notes of tea and leather. The fill level and label were in good condition as was the cork. 

A typical Amarone, deep ruby colored, but starting to turn a bit brownish from age, medium to full bodied with full forward ripe raisiny fig and black fruits.

The body is a bit lighter and the fruits are less pronounced than most Amarones I have had in the past.

RM 87 points.
. 
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=379640

 

Italian Village Wine Duo with Dinner

Italian Village features Italian Wine Duo, Amarone and Sangiovese with Dinner

For the second Thursday night in a row I hosted a business dinner at Italian Village Chicago and wine director Jared Gelband (right) served up a duo of Italian varietal wines to showcase our dinner selections, a Amarone della Valpolicella followed by a Brunello di Montalcino Sangiovese.

Tonight, we dined in one of the private tables/rooms in the Village, one of the three restaurants on the premises, a perfect setting for an intimate or business dinner.

In my blogpost about our wine and dinners last week, I wrote about Italian Village, Chicago's oldest, longest running continously family operated Italian restaurant in Chicago.


ILatium Morini Campo Leon Amarone della Valpolicella Corvina Blend 2013

Jared served me a taste of this wine last week with my anti-pasta course at my dinner at IV's Vivere and it was delicious, so we ordered it tonight with the anti-pasta course leading into the entree course.

In 1992, the Morini family bought bought a historic farm house from the early 1900's, surrounded by vineyards in the heart of Val di Mezzane.

For over forty years, ILatium Morini have been growing grapes  which they initially delivered to the local Cantina Sociale (cooperative wine cellar), but, eventually for production of own label wines. Seven brothers and cousins inherited the business that they continue to run to this day.

The origins or our village name Ilatium is from the word Latii, "those from Lazio", referring back to the ancient Romans who came in searching for remote lands to conquer. They settled in the area where they found an ideal environment for the cultivation of grapes, olives and fruit trees. The locals called them the Latii, "those from Lazio" who at the time were considered "strangers" or foreigners.

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, complex concentrated sweet ripe dark cherry and black currant fruits with spicy dark mocha notes and hint of tobacco, moderate acids and soft tannins on the flavorful finish.

RM 92 points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2928045

https://www.latiummorini.it/en/

Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino Sangiovese 2013

For our entree course we ordered Sangiovese and Jared served up this Brunello.

Il Marroneto was purchased in 1974 by Giuseppe Mori, father of  current owner and winemaker Alessandro Mori. The Mori family thus began to make wine in the first two small rooms of Il Marroneto  in a historical building that dates back to 1246. 

The first three thousand meters of Sangiovese vineyards of Il Marroneto 
were planted in 1975, then, as many again in 1979, and another 9000 in 1984. They are sited on the north slope of the hills about 350m elevation in the vicinity of the walls of Montalcino in Siena.

The vines of Il Marroneto are arranged so that each plant has 3.6 square meters, allowing the Sangiovese vines, which feed on the surface, to have optimal spacing for a good rooting. 

This 2013 vintage release was bright ruby colored, medium full bodied, vibrant expressive red fruits, tangy cinnamon spice, earth and floral notes with brisk acidity and tongue puckering tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 92 points.


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2377072

http://www.ilmarroneto.com/en/

https://italianvillage-chicago.com/