Wednesday, August 10, 2022

Paitin Serraboella Barbaresco

Paitin Serraboella Barbaresco Nebbiolo 2017 BYOB at Angeli's Italian

Midweek dinner, we dined at Angelis Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria. I took from our cellar this Italian Barbaresco Nebiollo for the occasion, to pair with our Italian cuisine. I ordered the basic classic Spaghetti pasta with Bolognese meat sauce with Italian meatball and sausage.

The Paitin Pasquero-Elia estate in the Barbaresco appellation is in the Piedmont region of northwestern Italy between Turin and Genoa. It has been in the family for 8 generations, since 1893, and the Grand Cru vineyard (MGA) of Serraboella is one of the traditional expressions of Neive’s Barbaresco.

Bricco di Neive is located 2 miles South-east of the Commune of Neive, nestled in the picturesque hillside area some 1.000 feet above sea level. The winery started in 1796, when Benedetto Elia purchased 5 acres of vineyard in Bricco di Neive, planted in Nebbiolo and Barbera. Thirty years later he purchased the house, the cellar and 5 more acres of Nebbiolo.

For years, the wines were sold in barrels. In 1890, his nephew, Giuseppe, built the “new” section of the winery, started in the 15th century, and bottled the first Barbaresco, Nebbiolo and Barbera wines.

In 1948, Secondo Pasquero Elia, took over the winery, and started to replant the vineyards. The vineyard planted in 1953 produces the flag ship Barbaresco label, Vecchie Vigne Riserva. 

In the 1980’s, Secondo’s sons, Giovanni and Silvano, joined the winery. In 1994, they bought a small estate in Alba where the Nebbiolo d’Alba Ca Veja is produced. At this location, they also run a Bed & Breakfast with 6 apartments in a 16th century farmhouse.

Today, they produce a dozen vineyard specific designated labels, all estate grown representing, the terroir of the region and the specific vineyard.

The Serraboella vineyards and label is the most famous cru in the Southern Neive. They were planted in 1980-1995. Up to 1999, these fruits were integrated into the Barbaresco Sorì Paitin, but since then they are harvested and vinified as this Serraboella vineyard designated label. 

Two Barbaresco vineyards contribute to this wine. The Serreboalla vineyards sit on a long hill exposed to West, and gently bends towards the South where it gets steeper. The steepest and the warmest side Barbaresco has a unique expression of powerful but elegant texture. The ‘d Tourun vineyard shares a border with the Bricco and exhibits mineral and rough character. The Schiena d’Ernestin vineyard is more sheltered position and shows more fine and elegant character. 

Paitin di Pasquero-Elia Barbaresco Serraboella Nebbiolo 2017

This is 100% Nebbiolo grape varietal
all vinified, subject to pressing and destemming then fermented and macerated from 3 to 6 weeks in stainless steel. At the end of the winter it is moved into wood barrels where it rests for around 1 year and a half to 2 years  in barrels between 25 to 50 hectoliters, made of Slavonian and Austrian oak with an age of 15 years.

Winemaker Notes for this 2017 release: "Soft, open-knit and gracious. Succulent red cherry, mint, white pepper and chalk make a positive first impression. Hints of rose petal, mint and cinnamon blend into the creamy finish."

It was awarded 95 points by James Suckling and 93 points by Wine Spectator.

James Suckling calls it a vivid, solid Barbaresco,  extremely flavorful and powerful with intense density of fruit and ripe tannins. It’s full-bodied with lots of plums and chocolate with some walnuts and bark.

Wine Spectator said it will be best from 2023 through 2040.
Perhaps we drank this too young but I don't believe so. I suspect it is at the apex of its drinking profile even though it may be at this level for another decade or more. We have at least one more bottle so we'll take that advise and set it aside for some period before we're tempted to consume it. 
We're accustomed to bold, large, forward concentrated  wines with more body, structure and density. This was a much more subdued, moderate, lighter and more delicate, more akin to the style and character of a Pinot Noir than a Bordeaux or Rhone varietal. 
This was a nice accompaniment to our pasta and red sauces, nicely balanced and complementary, but much more subdued and modest than our typical wine selections.
Ruby colored, light medium bodied, balanced and polished, black berry and cherry fruits are accented by notes of tar and black tea with hints of white pepper, smoke and menthol, with soft but gripping tannins on the finish. 
RM 91 points.