Laurent Perrier La Cuvée Grand Siècle Brut NV Champagne

Laurent Perrier La Cuvée Grand Siècle Grand Grand Cru Brut NV Champagne

We took this to Erin and Johnny's for Christmas Day gathering. There's always room for Champagne, especially special occasions and family holiday gatherings, so I took this special bottle from our cellar collection that we have been holding for quite a while. I recall this included in the blend wine from at least one of the kids' birth years. 

This is Laurent-Perrier's prestige cuvée that is a non-vintage blending from Laurent-Perrier's very best growths and most successful vintage years. Laurent-Perrier has always preferred to keep its prestige cuvée as a non-vintage blend to which they apply four rules:

• Blending of a selection of 3 exceptional years, chosen from the rare vintages produced by Laurent-Perrier.
• Blending of a selection of 11 of the 17 existing Grand Crus in Champagne, whose characteristics are specific to the Laurent-Perrier style.
• A blend made from a base year (the youngest) and 2 additional years in order to reach an ideal balance and to perpetuate this style with each iteration.
• A blend with a majority of Chardonnay supplemented by Pinot Noir and benefiting from more than 10 years of aging in the Cellars.

In the 17th Century, during the reign of Louis XIV, France enjoyed its most illustrious era. Louis XIV became known as the "Sun King" for his benevolence and his patronage of the Arts, which became the foundation of France's rich artistic heritage. At the Palace of Versailles Louis XIV was the first French King to drink Champagne in the Royal Court.

Louis XIV's era became known as the Grand Siècle - the "Great Century". Bottled in a replica of a 17th Century bottle, Laurent-Perrier's prestige cuvées "embody luxury, magnificence and elegance fit for a king".

Alec and Linda, Champagne 2006

The NV Grand Siècle Grande Cuvée is a Grand Cru Brut based on the firm's top selection, the only Cuvée de Prestige in Champagne based on the blend and not on the vintage. Grand Siècle is not a vintage wine. Each iteration is numbered, much more rarely than vintage years in Champagne. 

Only 24 iterations have been produced in 65 years compared to the 45 vintages declared over the same period.

Grand Siècle is sourced from twelve of the most prestigious villages' vineyards; all of them classified at 100% Grands Crus. From vineyards of these villages, only the very best plots are selected, and the finest musts from the pressings; Chardonnay 55% percent of the blend, from Avize, Chouilly, Cramant, and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger; and Pinot Noir, 45%, from Ambonnay, Bouzy, Louvois, Mailly, Tours-sur-Marne and Verzenay.

We toured many of these villages and the surrounding vineyards during our Champagne Wine Experience region tour in 2006. 

The first Grand Siècle cuvée was unveiled by Laurent-Perrier in 1959. Each release is a blend of recent three declared vintages; one was released consisting of 2006, 2004, and 2002, another was a blend of the 2002, 1999 and 1998, another release was from the '99, '97 and '96 vintages. But, I am certain we've had this for nearly a decade longer and recall it included the 1990 vintage, birth year of son, Alec. Alas, my cellar records fail me on the provenance of this label further indicating I acquired it before my current record keeping systems were in place. 

The 1990 vintage was included in three releases, Iteration 15 ('90, '88, and '85), Iteration 16 ('93, 90 and 88) and Iteration 17 ('95, 93, 90).  Hence, my recollection is it is one of these three, however, I thought the bottles I purchased back on release contained at least two our kids' birth-years which would've been Iteration 15. This is the last remaining bottle of a half dozen we consumed over the years. C'est la vie.

The current release of Grand Siècle is Iteration 24 and consists of vintages 2007, '06 and '04.

The NV declarations make it difficult to track which release is which after an extended time but another release of this label got 97 points from Wine Enthusiast and a 'Cellar Selection' designation, 95 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, and 93 points from Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar.

This or a similar label got 95 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 93 points from Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, and 90 points from Wine & Spirits.

While showing its age and possibly past its apex, certainly not likely to improve further with aging, this showed great character and a distinctive profile. Honey colored, (having darkened with age from straw then butter colored), medium bodied, complex, full predominant notes of smokiness combined with nutty pecan tones gave way to hints of pain-grille and caramel and dried pear with a smooth luxuriously balanced finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=874377

This had remnant of the profile it showed in its youth as written by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, "It is pure, ripe and very elegant, mixing pain-aux-raisin and honey flavors with pure chalk. Ample, highly elegant, beautifully matured and fruit-intense, with fine caramel, honey and torrone flavors, this is a well-structured Grand Siècle with great finesse and delicate freshness. Awesome."

Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar back in 2016 mentions the smokiness twice, on the main palate and again on the finish ... "A heady, mineral-tinged bouquet evokes dried pear, buttery brioche, lemon curd and anise, plus a smoky topnote. Chewy and expansive on the palate, offering concentrated orchard and pit fruit flavors and a touch of bitter quinine. The smoky note repeats on the finish, which shows impressive clarity and mineral-driven persistence."

https://www.laurent-perrier.com/en/the-wines/grand-siecle-2/introduction/

https://www.grandsiecle.com/en/pre-home-en/

Ghost Pines Red Blend 2011 - the 'un-terroir' wine

Ghost Pines Red Blend 2011 - the 'un-terroir' wine

This is an eclectic blend from a variety of grapes from a diversity of locations across California. By design, the philosophy for Ghost Pine's wines is to allow the winemaker to "enjoy (s) the freedom to choose the best grapes he can find, regardless of AVA. Inspired by the free-form character of its namesake tree, Ghost Pines embodies the progressive spirit of California winemaking – “excellence has no boundaries.”'

This is the opposite of the concept of terroir, that sense of place associated with the grapes from a particular vineyard and its distinctive combination of climate, micro-climate, soil, terrain, sun, drainage - all the elements that contribute to the character of grapes from specific place. In fact it takes that sense of place and multiplies it times three, four, five or more. And then take all of that times four or five different grape varietals that are in the composition for this wine. The result is a big complex flavorful wine.

Ghost Pines is named for a historic vineyard purchased in 1964 by Napa’s historic Louis M. Martini Winery. Ironically, they then go against all the heritage or sense of that vineyard and emphasize their approach to produces unique wines by giving Winemaker Michael Eddy 'the freedom to choose the best grapes he can find, regardless of AVA (appellation of designated place where grapes are grown with common characteristics).

Wine folks refer to 'old world' and 'new world' wines - the old world being wine regions that have been producing wines for centuries; France, Italy, Germany, Portugal, as compared to new world where wines have been produced for years ... or perhaps decades; Chile, Argentina, South Africa, Austrailia, New Zealand, .... America. Ghost Pines would be the epitomy of new world thinking.

While old world wines may be 'narrow' and perhaps uninspiring, those producers have become masters at getting the absolute most out of their particular 'patch' of ground that is their vineyard. This includes learning over time precisely which grapes (varietals) grow best in that place, and best reflect through their output that sense of place - terroir. As such, they'll also select grapes that compliment each other and go best together as in combination to provide the best results in the blend. One grape for depth, one for breadth, one for increased structure, and complementary flavors.

At the end of the day, lets never forget, its all grape juice!

Those with discriminating palates that have the experience and discernment to parse all the elements and characteristics of a wine so as to even detect that sense of terroir, or the nuances of the different grapes in the blend, let alone the effects of the particular vintage, appreciate comparing one vintage of an Estate wine to the next. Indeed, Estate bottled means that the grapes in that bottle were grown on the property of the producer as identifed on the label.

The French famously put on their labels (left) "Mis En Bouteille au Château", roughly translated as bottled at the Chateau or Estate or property. Adding the words "Appellation Original Controllee", (AOC) go further to certify that that wine conforms to rigorous controls over the grapes, their origin within the Appellation, and how the wine was produced. In Italy, the similarly equivalent references are DOC and DOCG (Denominazione di origine controllata - "Controlled designation of origin") that are the controls that enforce the quality of the wine in a particular area or appellation.


All this said, Ghost Pines is the result of free-form selection of grapes from many locales, from many varietals, blended together into their wines. This is the case in bulk wine, oft called 'jug wines', but in this case, they're striving for 'contemporary' quality wine from the same approach.


The result is not necessarily sophisticated, polished, harmonious or 'integrated', all words that might describe how well the different components of the blend complement each other, it is complex, perhaps to a fault. But then again, its a $15 wine, that no man's land between 'jug' wine and a Meritage (trademarked branding for a Bordeaux blend composition in a non-Bordeaux sourced wine - the Bordeaux varietals being Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot) or Bordeaux or other AOC wine.

By their own pronouncements they profess, "When our winemakers think about how to make a great wine, they start in the vineyard. And that vineyard has no boundaries. It may begin in northern Napa and end on the hillsides of Sonoma. It might stretch across mountains and valleys to Lodi in San Joaquin or meander down the Pacific Coast to Monterey. When the barriers of traditional appellations are lifted, a progressive group of winemakers sees no limit to the kind of wine they can make. Those winemakers, led by Ghost  Pines Vintner Michael Eddy, are turning out remarkable wines that blend the best of California's diverse appellations." 

In addition to this Red Blend, Ghost Pines also produce a Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel and a Chardonnay.

You be the judge. Its all in the eye of the beholder. I think in the end, they produce a wine that provides high QPR - Quality Price Ratio, and perhaps that is what is most important to the consumer anyway. While not true to appellation conventions, look for Ghost Pines for imaginative, bold and interesting wines.

Even the producer speaks to a Dr Jekyll, Mr Hyde combination in the blend of grapes used for this wine. "The Ghost Pines 2011 Red Blend showcases the complexity and balance that the right combination of the right grapes can achieve. The Bordeaux varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot in this blend act as the stoic Dr. Jekyll, while the Petite Sirah, Zinfandel and Sangiovese are a classic Hyde: assertive, aggressive and maybe even a little disturbed."

The winemakers' notes for this wine describe, "Aromas of blueberry and blackberry pie are framed nicely by salted caramel, spice and truffle notes. Rich and full-bodied, this blend offers chewy tannins and a long, luscious finish."

I found this wine dark purple colored, full bodied, complex aromas and flavors of black and blue berry fruits, tones of cherry, graphite, spice and tea with a tight edge on the firm tannins lingering on the finish.

RM 87 points.

The blend is 48% Petite Sirah, 21% Zinfandel, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petit Verdot, 9% Other.
The grapes are sourced from 56% Sonoma County, 23% San Joaquin County, and 21% from Napa County.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1591550

http://www.ghostpines.com/