Forman Chardonnay and Den Hoed Red Blend

Forman Chardonnay and Den Hoed Limited Release Columbia Valley Cabernet for surf and turf dinner 

Sister and Bro-in-law Pat & Rodger came to town to join us for a rare Cubs-Yankees stand-off at our beloved Wrigley Field. 

Linda prepared a surf & turf dinner with King Salmon and tomahawk ribeye beefsteak with haricot verts and baked potatoes. 

With the salmon I opened from the cellar this robust Chardonnay. 

Forman Napa Valley Chardonnay 2017

This is from Forman Winery and Vineyards in Napa Valley, founded by winemaker Ric Forman in 1979. 

Ric got BS and MS degrees in Food Science at the notable U.C. Davis and went on to be founding winemaker and viticulturist at Sterling Vineyards, north of St Helena where he spent ten years before purchasing the Forman winery and vineyard property. 

The Forman property is located on Big Rock Road, off Old Howell Mountain Road, just off Silverado Trail above the landmark Meadowood Resort. 

The estate consists of 11 acres of vineyards that are divided into three parcels, each one planted to the four Bordeaux varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. 

The largest vineyards sits in a three-million-year-old riverbed which is comprised of gravel/sand deposits. Directly above the winery the steeply sloped plot is composed of more dense and larger volcanic rock, so much so that extensive dynamite explosions to break up the rock in order to enable planting on the site. 

Forman released the first Forman Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon in 1983 and the first Chardonnay in 1985. In 1988, they excavated the third wine cave in Napa Valley, which today has become commonplace in highly developed properties. 

We hold a half dozen vintages of this label, this being the oldest, opened as part of cellar inventory management. This 2017 release was rated 92 points by Antonio Galloni - Vinous who describes their style as “understated style by Napa Valley standards”. 

This release was sourced from the Rutherford Bench Rutherford Star vineyard located behind the Rutherford Grill. It was whole-cluster pressed and aged on its lees for 7 months in Burgundy barrels with no malolactic fermentation to preserve structural crispness and elegance.

Winemaker Notes - “A passion for a more austere Chablis style wine from this noble grape has been Forman's goal for more than 36 years. Since 1980 the Rutherford Star vineyard in the heart of the Rutherford Bench appellation has been the source of the Forman Vineyard Chardonnay. It has continued to produce consistent quality over the last 20 years. The wine emphasizes and develops a minerality which, with age, develops into a very racy and elegant food worthy wine.”

Golden straw colored, medium bodied, Chablis like, crisp, rather austere mineral driven with subdued tropical fruits, lemon citrus and apple notes with crisp acidity.

RM 90 points. 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/3145230

https://formanvineyard.com/

The grilled tomahawk ribeye beefsteak was thin sliced and served. 

For pairing with the steak, I pulled from the cellar a rare limited production Washington State Columbia Valley Cabernet for an ideal food wine pairing. We follow this winery and obtained this special release bottling at auction since this wine has a rather disparate lengthy family connection. 

We met the sister of the producers, the Den Hoed brothers, vintner farmers in Yakima Valley, Washington, at the wedding of our niece, who married their nephew. Den Hoeds grow grapes for several producers and also produce some limited release select labels of premium wines. 

For this release they partnered with Alan Shoup, founder of the Long Shadow’s Vintners Collection that we acquire as Club Members and feature often in these pages. The Den Hoed brothers and their partnership with Shoup, and this release were featured Wine Business News back then upon release. 

https://www.winebusiness.com/news/article/67838

From the Wine Business.com New Release - Sep 29, 2009: 

Washington Growers Bill and Andy Den Hoed Debut Den Hoed Wine Estates in Partnership with Allen Shoup and Rob Newsom

Long-time Columbia Valley grape growers, brothers Bill and Andy Den Hoed of Grandview, Wash.; Long Shadows founder, Allen Shoup; and Boudreaux Cellars owner/winemaker Rob Newsom will release their 2005 Den Hoed Marie's View red blend.

The partners have quietly worked on this project since establishing a joint venture in 2005. The wines are named for the Den Hoeds' parents, Dutch immigrants who first planted grapes in the Columbia Valley in 1956.

Shoup led Chateau Ste. Michelle Wine Estates for twenty years and founded Long Shadows Vintners in 2002, a partnership of internationally acclaimed vintners. Newsom made his first ColumbiaValley wine in 1998. The Den Hoed family had considered winemaking for decades, but it wasn't until they began working closely with Shoup and his Long Shadows winemaking partners John Duval and Randy Dunn - who were buying grapes from the Den Hoeds - that the idea for Den Hoed Wine Estates took hold. 

Wallula Vineyard photo from Wine Business News

In 2008, Shoup and a group of investors formed a partnership that purchased 80% of the 750-acre Wallula Vineyard from the Den Hoeds (who kept 20% and a management contract). 

The Den Hoeds began carving this unique vineyard out of the "benches" of a steep, south-facing bluff in Washington State's Horse Heaven Hills in 1997. The property's elevation drops more than 1,000 feet from the top of the hillside down to the edge of the Columbia River, resulting in a vast assortment of micro-climates.

Shortly after purchasing the site, Shoup renamed the property "The Benches" and saved the name "Wallula Vineyard" for the earliest planted vines and a large biodynamic vineyard planted for Randall Grahm.

We first tasted and wrote about Den Hoed wines at chic upscale Canlis Restaurant in Lake Union, suburban Seattle, when we were together for our Seattle Culinary Wine Weekend.  

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/08/canlis-restaurant-seattle-extraordinary.html

Canlis Restaurant Seattle Extraordinary Wine Dine Experience

We then acquired some at auction and featured it in several posts in these pages:

Den Hoed Cabernet at Beach House Restaurant Kauai

Den Hoed Marie's View Walula Slope Horse Heaven Hills Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2023/03/den-hoed-maries-view-walula-slope-horse.html

Den Hoed at Son Ryan's for Bulls Play-in Game

Den Hoed Andreas Wallula Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

As I wrote in previous posts. this is named for the patriarch founder, Andreas Den Hoed, who married Marie Den Hoed in 1956 and they planted their first vineyard on their property that year. After two years in the Army Andreas returned to the farm. 

In the early years, they paid the bills growing mint. He continued to plant more vineyards as resources allowed, expanding acreage almost every year. In 1988, their two sons Bill and Andy joined the business as partners in a new project, with acreage planted to vineyards. 

The father and sons team continued to expand in the Yakima Valley for the next 5-6 years. After several years of searching, in 1997, they purchased a 550 acre parcel of land bordering the Columbia River in the Wallula Gap. Since then the vineyard has earned a reputation as one of the finest in the region. It is sited in a picturesque growing location nestled high above the mighty Columbia River south of of the town of Kennewick. The wines produced from this vineyard have proven to stand the test of time and can stand up and hold their own against the best wines of the new world. 

Andreas is a limited production estate wine which celebrates their family history and showcases the Wallula Vineyard. It is a robust Cabernet Sauvignon crafted by Gilles Nicault of the notable Long Shadows Vintners Collection of wines that we collect as prime members of their club. We also discovered Long Shadows during that Seattle, Woodinville Wine Weekend. 

Canlis Lake Union night view

That was our first tasting experience of Den Hoed wines, and being priced below the median on the extensive Canlis winelist, we were dubious yet had high expectations. The Andreas met our most lofty hopes and expectations and was a highlight of our extraordinary meal.

So, how fitting it was that that Canlis dinner was a mini family affair as wife Linda and son Ryan joined me at this legendary family restaurant. Moreover, a subplot to the story, our niece Anna Long, married into the Van Hoed family, farmers, wine growers, viticulturists and winemakers from the famed Walula Vineyards in the central Washington wine region.

Tonight we opened another Den Hoed label, Marie's View from a vineyard so named on the Walula Slope in the Horse Heaven Hills Washington State Appellation. 

We discovered Long Shadows Cellars during that trip and since joining their club, we've acquired a vertical collection of a half dozen vintages of their premier labels of renowned producers crafting world class wines from Washington State fruit.

The winemaker is the local well known Rob Newsom of Boudreaux Cellars. 

This was a perfect complement, pairing with the grilled beefsteaks. 

This vineyard is named for Marie Van Hoed, wife of founder Andreas, mother of the current generation producers. 

This was awarded 92 points by Wine Enthusiast and 90 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. 

Den Hoed wines are packaged in an extra heavy bottles with the most incredible deepest punts (that indentation in the bottle around which sediment collects).  

The Den Hoed Wine Estates partnership sourced grapes from small blocks in the Wallula Vineyard section of The Benches. 

The 2005 Marie’s View spent 24 months in French and American oak. A mere 136 cases were produced.

Newsom made the 2005 Marie's View, a blend of 36% Syrah, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, and 12% Sangiovese. 

Densely colored inky garnet purple, medium full bodied, concentrated, firmly structured, full round black berry, black currant and plum fruits with notes of creosote, cassis, cedar and hints of pepper with a vibrant acid backbone and firm tannins on a pleasurable lasting finish. 

RM 92 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2799196

https://www.denhoedwines.com/

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/3505677

WBTG at Suzette’s Creperie Wheaton

 WBTG at Suzette’s Creperie Wheaton 

For an impromptu casual lunch, we dined at Suzette’s Creperie, Wheaton (IL), one of our favorite dining spots in the western suburbs. 

We enjoyed two of our favorite preparations - I love their Sole preparation and Linda their Crab Cakes. 

We’ve written about Suzette’s and these entree choices numerous times in these pages - 

Fun lunch at Suzette’s Crêperie Wheaton

Signorello Hope's Cuvee BYOB at Suzette's Creperie Wheaton

Suzette's Creperie Wheaton

French Wine Dinner Al Fresco at Suzettes Creperie Wheaton

We both selected a white wine accompaniment from the WBTG selections list, Linda a French Chardonnay from the south of France, Languedoc-Roussillon region, and me a Graves Bordeaux. 

Domaine De Montrose Languedoc- Roussillon Côtes de Thongue Chardonnay 2024 

Domaine Montrose is a historic family run producer that dates back to 1701 when Joseph Alazard received his ‘Three Lizards’ coat of arms which continues to this day as part of the family crest in homage to him, it adorns all of bottles’ and labels to this day.

The estate has belonged to and been managed by the Coste family nine generations. Current proprietor, Bernard Coste is the 8th generation in charge of Domaine Montrose and his son Olivier joined him in 2009, continuing the heritage of 300 years producing wine.

Bernard and Olivier Coste both live on the estate which consists of just under 200 acres of vines, situated around the estate.  The vineyards around the winery are planted on a range of rather unusual terroirs with clay-limestone balanced soils. The estate is named after its location, on a volcano (mont) and after the pink-blossomed (rose) almond trees bordering the property. 

Domaine Montrose is located in the South of France, a few kilometers from the village of Pézenas and the Mediterranean Sea in the Côtes de Thongue  (IGP) wine appellation, in the Languedoc- Roussillon wine region, and the sub region of Herault.

The small Côtes de Thongue appellation is made up of about fifty producers. Interestingly, the producers of this wine appellation have declined the official AOC certification in order to ensure their freedom to produce wines of their liking. 

The appellation has a Mediterranean climate: cold and dry winter, hot and dry summer, humid spring and fall. Montrose vines are grown on soils that are typical for this appellation: Villafranchian terraces (small round pebbles), clay-limestone, and basalt.

Committed to protecting the biodiversity of its vineyards, they have planted 21 different species of Mediterranean trees and now have 1,053 trees on the property. These trees and their ecosystem help the healthy management of the vineyards.

Domaine Montrose and its surroundings have been inhabited for millennia, dating back to Roman occupation when it was likely a Roman villa. The historic “Valros Tower” next to the vineyard was a Carolingian necropolis and then a stronghold in the Middle Ages.

Wine has been made at Montrose since the 16th century. Aged underground tanks still exist beneath the wine cellar.. 

The primary wine produced by the family is Rosé. They also produce this 100% Chardonnay, a unique blend sourced from their three terroirs, Villa Franchian terrasses with small round pebbles, sandy clay, and volcanic soils naturally poor in nutrients, which are typical of the appellation, planted on the slope of a volcano. The assortment of terroirs gives their wines a unique personality.

Each terroir is vinified separately. Grapes are destemmed before a short skin contact or a direct pressing. Wines resulting from the different terroirs are blended after fermentation and then aged in stainless steel vats rather than oak barrels to preserve freshness, fruit and minerality, and achieve a distinctive balance and elegance they seek in their unique style.

Winemaker’s notes - yellow color with green hints. Nose of fresh fruit. Notes of citrus and white peach. Elegant wine combining roundness and freshness. 

This was pale golden straw colored, light medium bodied, with crisp, clean, expressive notes of peach, pear and citrus with lively acidity. 

RM 90 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?5381585

https://domaine-montrose.com/en/over-the-century/

http://suzettescreperie.com/index.html

Château Millet Henri’s Cuvee 2024  

Château Millet is one of the premiere domaines and brands of the Domaines de La Mette, a collection of chateaux comprised of 150 acres of vines in the Graves and 50 acres in the Bordeaux Supérieur appellations. 

The Château Millet estate is located 20 kms southeast along the Gironde River of the City of Bordeaux, just outside the village of Portets. The Château Millet chateau was re-built in the late 19th Century on the foundations of a Medieval castle. 

Today, the chateau and vineyards are managed by Thierry de La Mette and Jean-Batiste Solorzano, who manages the day-to-day operations of Domaines de La Mette. 

Chateau Millet’s 35 acres of vines are planted on the gravelly soil of a clay and limestone plateau overlooking the Garonne River, planted primarily in red Bordeaux varietals, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Carménère that produce red wines that are elegant yet flavorful, the hallmark of Graves wines. 

The remaining 2 1/2 acres which face south on ideal limestone soil are planted to white grape varietals, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris and Semillon. The southern exposure ensures an excellent maturity for these delicate grapes, giving them the signature style and taste that has made Graves wines famous. 

This label, Chateau Millet Graves Blanc “Cuvée Henri”, is named in homage to Thierry’s late father, Henri de La Mette. 

The wine is a blend of fifty percent Sauvignon Blanc, forty percent Semillon and ten percent Sauvignon Gris; with the age of the vines between fifteen to thirty years. 

 The wine undergoes fermentation in Stainless Steel vats and then is aged in French Oak, of which a third is new, for six months. 

Winemaker/Distributors’s Tasting Notes - “  The pale-straw-yellow colored wine offered notes of white fruits, melon and vanilla. On the palate this light-to- medium bodied, well-balanced wine displayed tones of fruit and citrus in a supple texture that ended with medium-count finish of fruit and terroir. The suppleness, the fruit and floral aromas of this wine are all invitations to the pleasures of the connoisseur's palate. The nose has hints of sweet spices, with a touch of vanilla. Elegant and unctuous on the palate, supported by refreshing acidity. The finish reveals notes of white pepper and cloves.”

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/5440006

Return to Cellar Wine Bistro, Lafayette

Return to Cellar Wine Bistro, Lafayette

For the second time in as many weeks, we found ourselves in Lafayette (IN). Unfortunately, it was for another Celebration of Life of a recently departed dear friend of wife Linda, from her hometown. 

Following the gathering, we went back to the Cellar Wine Bistro in downtown Lafayette, which we enjoyed so much on our previous recent visit - featured in this blogpost - Kosta Browne Chardonnay at The Cellar Wine Bistro Lafayette.

Tonight, we had the pleasure of meeting the owner, Michelle, whose love of wine and hospitality was the impetus for opening the establishment. She personally manages the wine program. It was a pleasure meeting her and showing our support for the business, and learning more about her background, and wine country insights and experiences. 

 

We ordered the plate of olives, the bread plate of house-made Focaccia & whipped berry flavored butter …

And the Baked Brie with Tart black cherry, sage and crostini … 

And the Roasted Asparagus with whipped ricotta, jammy egg, parmesan, wtih lemon-dijon vinaigrette …

Invariably, when visiting a wine centered venue, I will customarily ask the server if they have any wines that are not on the winelist. Typically, there are, given the challenges and dynamics of keeping an extensive wine list up to date. So it was, tonight, that there were several recent acquisitions that had not been updated on the published list.

We selected a unique appellation varietal combination, never experienced before, a Tuscan Chardonnay, from a top reputable producer, whose wine we have enjoyed in the past. 

Isole e Olena Collezione Privata Chardonnay 2022

We discovered and enjoyed Isole e Olena wine at a spectacular wine and dinner outing at Bruna’s Ristorante in Chicago’s Little Italy as featured in this post - Wine & Dinner at Bruna’s in Chicago’s Little Italy.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2025/10/wine-dinner-at-brunas-in-chicagos.html 

Having enjoyed that label from this producer, I was eager to try another wine from their portfolio, especially a unique varietal and appellation offering such as this. 

This unique limited release Tuscan Chardonnay is from the historic Chianti Classico estate Isole e Olena. Founded in 1956 by Francesco De Marchi, Isole e Olena is located in the western part of the Chianti Classico denomination, near the village of Castellina in Chianti, in the commune of Barberina Val d’Elsa.

The De Marchi family were originally from the north of Piedmont, between Val D’Aosta and the Italian side of Switzerland, where they had very small vineyards which were abandoned after World War Two. 

The Isole e Olena estate was bought by Francesco De Marche, Paolo’s father in 1956. It consisted of two abandoned hamlets, Isole and Olena, and the surrounding vineyards. 

Francesco’s son, Paolo De Marchi, took over the estate in 1975. De Marchi was born in Turin and studied agricultural sciences, viticulture, and winemaking at the university there, and as soon as he graduated and finished his training, he moved to the estate in Tuscany, and was responsible for Isole e Olena until its eventual sale in 2022. 

When he arrived in Tuscany in the mid-1970s, the Chianti appellation required “a huge number” of white grapes in the blend. The appellation rules changed in 1984, greatly reducing the requirement for white grapes in the Chianti blend which dramatically improved the wines. From his second harvest, Pablo  tagged the best Sangiovese vines, through what was known as “massal selection” based upon how the grapes perform in the vineyard, and transitioned to making a 100% Sangiovese wine from these better-quality vines.

In 1980, De Marchi started bottling this wine under the name Cepparello, named for the little creek which runs dry most of the season through the estate, a Sangiovese from old vines, aged in barrique. At the time, pure Sangiovese wines could not legally be called Chianti Classico. This wine eventually became the flagship signature wine of Isole e Olena and one of the first Super Tuscan wines. 

After ten years of working with these tagging and tracking the wines, in 1987, he planted a vineyard grafted from the best vines to concentrate in one vineyard, vines of the same age with the same rootstocks.

In the end, the vine selections were registered by a nursery and ultimately many new vineyards in the Chianti Classico DOCG were planted with vine selections from Isole e Olena, becoming a standard bearer of quality for the area. 

When De Marchi was considering retirement, there were no direct family members to take over the estate. De Marchi’s son Luca was already running the original family estate Proprietà Sperino in Lessona.

In 2022, De Marchi sold the estate to the French luxury group EPI, whose portfolio includes Champagne houses Rare and Charles Heidsieck as well as Biondi Santi in Montalcino. 

De Marchi remained as CEO through the transition to new estate director Emanuele Reolon who was appointed to continue the vision of Paolo De Marchi’s legacy of quality and excellence in viticulture and winemaking in a faithful expression of the domaine’s terroir.

The Isole e Olena estate covers 138 acres of vineyards, sitting at 1,148 – 1,476 feet above sea level on soils of galestro and marly schist. 

This Tuscan Chardonnay release was rated 95 points by Jame Suckling and Robert Parker, 94 points by Wilfred Wong of Wine.com and 92 points by Wine Spectator.

My thoughts were the same as expressed by Wilfred Wong of Wine.com, who wrote, “ I admit it, I rarely think of Tuscany as a place to satisfy my Chardonnay cravings. The remarkable 2022 Isole e Olena Collezione Privata took me by surprise. At first sniff, I thought, "Hmm, pretty interesting!" As I continue to savor it, I realize how significant this experience was going to be.”

Winemaker Notes - “Light greenish gold in color, the Chardonnay is aromatic on the nose, with spicy, buttery perfumes. On the palate it balances ripe fruit, fresh bread crust from the oven, with a hint of spice from the oak aging and a long, slightly citrus finish.”

Pale golden, greenish straw colored, medium bodied, polished, balanced and somewhat elegant with subdued poached pear , peach and citrus notes on a layer of cinnamon spice, hints of stone fruits, vanilla, toasty oak and butterscotch, integrated acidity, a zesty acidic grip on the long persistent finish.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?4966621

https://cellar422wines.com/

Kosta Browne Chardonnay at The Cellar Wine Bistro Lafayette

Kosta Browne Chardonnay at The Cellar Wine Bistro Lafayette

Traveling to Linda’s hometown to visit family, and for a wake and funeral of a departed dear lifelong friend, we stayed and dined in the nearest city, Lafayette, Indiana. 

At the end of a long week of travel and events, we sought and found a delightful relaxing venue for a late night small bites dinner with fine wine for a perfect much needed decompression and wind-down. 

The Cellar Wine Bistro in Lafayette (IN) offers a broad imaginative selection of fine wines to accompany and pair with menu of small plates, cheese, charcuterie, specialties and desserts. There is a small selection of Wines By the Glass (WBTG), as well as the full bottle wine list. 

The bistro shares its space with Réveille Coffee Bar, which operates during the day

Cellar Wine Bistro is owned operated by two sisters Michelle and Marla. Michelle, spent time in California and brings back home to Indiana the Santa Barbara wine scene culture. They are assisted by Kat who applies her 20+ years experience in the food and beverage industry, and Purdue degree in Food & Nutrition to prepare the dining menu offerings, focusing on seasonal fare and collaborating with local producers and farmers.

https://cellar422wines.com/

We ordered a cheese plate with fruits and bread, the focaccio bread plate, olives, and the special of New Zealand Green Lipped mussels served baked on the half shell with escargot butter.

 

For a wine accompaniment I selected the finest ultra-premium label available on the winelist. 

Kosta Brown “116” Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2021 

This wine is from producers Dan Kosta and Michael Browne who produce a portfolio of ultra-premium Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. 

Kosta Browne Winery in Sebastopol, California, has gained fame and acclaim for its highly sought-after Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with wines sourced from leading vineyards in California (Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast, and Santa Lucia Highlands) and Oregon's Willamette Valley, plus Burgundy, France. 

Since founding in 1997, Kosta Browne has become synonymous with crafting some of the finest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in California.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2011/05/grand-tour-chicago-wine-tasting.html

We first met Dan Kosta and tasted their wines at the Wine Spectator Grand Tour in Chicago in 2011 (shown with the author below), which we featured in these pages in this blogpost - Grand Tour Chicago - Wine Tasting Extravaganza.

Founders Dan Kosta and Michael Browne met when they worked together at a restaurant in Sonoma County. To pursue their love of wine, they pooled their limited resources to buy their first grapes. Michael built relationships with Northern California’s premier growers, while Dan, with support from third partner Chris Costello, focused on marketing and selling their wine.

Kosta Browne Winery was founded in 1997 with the ambition to create world class wines. In 2009, they were awarded Wine Spectator’s #1 Wine of the Year for their 2009 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir.

They source from highly acclaimed vineyards & growers spanning the Sonoma Coast, the Russian River Valley, the cool Santa Lucia Highlands, the coastal Sta. Rita Hills, Sonoma County Anderson Valley, and the hallowed terroirs of Burgundy, France. 

Today, Kosta Browne wines are crafted under the leadership of Head Winemaker Julien Howsepian. In 2019, rising star Julien Howsepian was named just the third winemaker in Kosta Browne’s history at the age of 34 building on the winemaking foundation established by Co-founder Michael Browne.

Julien helped expand the Kosta Browne portfolio to Oregon’s majestic Willamette Valley and the legendary vineyards of Gevrey-Chambertin, Beaune, Pommard, Volnay and Meursault in Burgundy, France.

A first-generation American, Julien was born to a French father and a Dutch mother who inspired in him appreciation for wine. Raised in Northern California’s Bay Area, Julien regularly traveled to France to visit family, including relatives in the wine industry. He studied at UC Davis, where he earned a degree in viticulture and enology. Prior to joining Kosta Browne, Julien gained hands-on experience at several notable California estates and in New Zealand’s acclaimed Hawkes Bay region.

Julien joined Kosta Browne in 2012 and quickly established himself as an invaluable member of the team with an innovative, detail-oriented approach to winemaking and a love of blending. Working alongside Michael Browne, Julien progressed from production assistant to cellar master to assistant winemaker, and winemaker in 2019. In 2025, he was honored as one of “the best young leaders” in the wine industry when he was named one of the Beverage Information Group’s “40 Under 40.”

The Kosta Browne portfolio consists of more than a dozen single vineyard designated ultra-premium Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, and the “Appellation Series”, a collections of blends from each of the appellations where they source grapes from leading grower vineyards. 

Kosta Browne “One Sixteen” Russian River Valley Chardonnay  2021 

The Kosta Browne One Sixteen Chardonnay is named after the Gravenstein Highway 116 which cuts through the town of Sebastopol, and showcases the character of the Green Valley sub-appellation in the Russian River Valley.

The Russian River Valley in Sonoma County is defined by its maritime climate with cool ocean fog that funnels inland through the Russian River corridor, moderating temperatures and creating ideal conditions for slow, even Chardonnay ripening. The extended growing season promotes complexity, crisp acidity, and expressive aromatics.

The 2021 One Sixteen Chardonnay draws fruit from eight outstanding vineyards, including Ritchie, Heintz, and Keefer Ranch, situated in the coolest reaches of the AVA. These sites benefit from sandy Goldridge soils and consistent fog cover, allowing the grapes to develop nuanced flavors without overripening. 

The others, Winner’s Circle, Zio Tony Ranch, Lone Oak, Bootlegger’s Hill and El Diablo Vineyards round out the blend. 

The clonal diversity is Wente, Mt. Eden, Dijon 95 and 548, and Clone 4, which contributes to layered textures and aromatic complexity.

Winemaker Notes: “The collection of famous Chardonnay vineyards that we work with along the famous Route 116, are in the coolest and most sought after areas of the Russian River Valley. Individual pressed lots were fermented in barrel or foudres, all 100% native primary and malolactic fermentations, which adds depth and complexity to the finished wine. With brilliant clarity and a bouquet of green apple, pear, and persimmon aromas, this radiant Chardonnay makes a stunning first impression. The palate strikes a lovely balance between round texture and bright acidity, with succulent orchard fruit flavors and a kiss of French oak that evolve into a long, shimmering finish.95 points James Suckling - "Expressive aromas of preserved lemons, lime zest, flint and river stones. The palate is medium-bodied with bright acidity and a creamy texture, giving notes of orchard fruit, grapefruit, yellow apples and pastry. A good balance of power and finesse."

Fermentation was conducted in a mix of 83% French oak barrels and 17% large foudres. The wine aged for 14 months, including 30% in new French oak, 4% in new Austrian oak, and 20% in wood cask. Prior to bottling, 66% of the blend was transferred to stainless steel for 6 months, polishing the texture and brightening acidity.

3700 cases were produced.

This release was awarded 92 points by Wine Spectator. 

Golden straw colored with subtle green hues, medium full bodied, rich, round harmonious well balanced and polished, bright vibrant flavors of mango, green apple and honeysuckle hints of peach and pineapple are accented by notes of toasted brioche, oak and baking spices with lively acidity on a delicious creamy lingering finish. 

RM 94 points. 

I enjoyed this One Sixteen Chardonnay so much, when we got home, I immediately went and picked up some more at Binny’s, our local big box beverage center. 

https://kostabrowne.com/

We met and talked with Kat about her preparations and presentations and she alerted us to her incredible cheesecake which we enjoyed with a tawny port aperitif for a fitting finish to a delightful outing. 

Ramey Fort Ross-Seaview Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

Ramey Fort Ross-Seaview Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2017

We opened this for a pleasurable hearty sipper with salads and artisan cheeses. This premium Chardonnay is from Ramey Wine Cellars, producer of a broad portfolio of Chardonnays, Pinots Noirs and some Syrahs. 

David Ramey and wife Carla Ramey founded Ramey Wine Cellars in 1996 focusing on a winemaking style that paired old-world techniques with the premier fruit of Sonoma and Napa. They produce an extensive portfolio of single vineyard wines as well as blends that showcase the characteristics of their sites. 

David Ramey is hailed as “Professor Chardonnay” by Wine Spectator Magazine. He has been making wine since the 1970s, known for crafting age-worthy wines, having learned the craft working in Bordeaux..

David Ramey began his career at Simi under the mentorship of Zelma Long, an American wine pioneer who worked at Robert Mondavi. David and Zelma collaborated on developing leading winemaking practices crafting a Chardonnay style now emulated by many. 

David spent time at the Moueix in Bordeaux, including Château Pétrus, where he learned from legendary winemaker Jean-Claude Berrouet who had learned from Émile Peynaud, who revolutionized quality in modern winemaking. David and Carla Ramey were married in Bordeaux in 1989, while working harvest at Château Pétrus. 

Since co-founding Ramey Wine Cellars in 1996, Carla has served as CFO and has managed business operations, sales, and marketing.

The second generation, Claire and Alan Ramey, began working at the winery in 2013 becoming co-presidents of Ramey Wine Cellars in 2021. 

Claire Ramey leads viticultural operations, responsible for Ramey’s estate vineyard, Westside Farms, as well as managing the viticultural directives for Ramey’s winegrowing partners. 

Alan Ramey worked at Veramonte in Chile and Domaine Méo-Camuzet in Burgundy and competed on the blind tasting team for the University of Cambridge. He currently serves on the Board of the California Wine Institute.

Ramey’s Estate vineyard is 75-acre Westside Farms on the banks of the Russian River has been farmed since the middle 1800s. Wine Spectator has described Westside Farms’ location as “hallowed ground” for lovers of well-structured Chardonnays. 

Ramey has an extensive network of grower partnerships with the many of the most highly acclaimed and well known vineyards across Napa and Sonoma County: 

HYDE VINEYARD - a 100 point wine source, 

WOOLSEY ROAD VINEYARD

ROCHIOLI VINEYARD - 100 point wine source

RITCHIE VINEYARD

RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY

FORT ROSS-SEAVIEW | SONOMA COAST

CARNEROS

HUDSON VINEYARD

PLATT VINEYARD

Awards and acclaim for Ramey partner grower vineyards:  
100 points - Hyde Vineyard
100 points -Rochioli Vineyard
World’s Top Chardonnay - Hyde Vineyard, Wine Spectator, 2019
World’s Top Chardonnay - Rochioli Vineyard, Wine Enthusiast, 2021
World’s Top Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Wine Spectator, 2024

Photo map from Ramey Wine Cellars

This 2017 Chardonnay is the second vintage from the Martinelli family’s Charles Ranch Vineyard in the Fort Ross-Seaview appellation on the Sonoma Coast. Sitting a few miles, two ridges in from the cold Pacific Ocean and its regular dense fog, the vineyards of the Fort Ross-Seaview appellation still manage to achieve impressive ripeness due to their high elevations that often keep them just above the fog line. 

The property has been in the Martinelli family since the 1800's. They homesteaded 640 acres and from 1970-1981used a horse to move stakes to the field in small bundles. The vineyard was planted in 1982 by George Hastings Charles, Lee Martinelli’s grandfather.  Lee Jr. has managed the ranch since 1989. 

The vineyard is nestled amidst redwoods, bay laurels, and oaks on sprawling, southern-exposed blocks at an elevation of 1,115 feet. Charles Ranch soil is Goldridge sandstone and Josephine shale and old clay. The soils are thin and well drained. Charles Ranch receives two times as much rain as vineyards in the Russian River Valley. 

The growing season typically experiences a period of drought, with variable spring weather that often extends the bloom period. This necessitates careful green drops at veraison. The temperatures usually stabilize in June, remaining moderate through harvest, resulting in a cool, even growing season. Yields can vary, often being especially low for Chardonnay sites. 

The vineyard was carefully planted with Clone 4 and Old Wente. 

After aging for 12 months in 10% new French oak barrels, the Chardonnay is traditionally fined for clarity and texture during the following harvest and bottled without filtration. The result is a 100% Chardonnay varietal composition that reflects the unique characteristics of the vineyard and the meticulous winemaking process.

“Coming from a special vineyard site, our Sonoma Coast Chardonnays show great depth of flavor, length of finish, aromatic complexity, and a fine balance between richness and delicacy. This vineyard has typically cool climates, low vigor soil, and a vine selection that generate small berries, small clusters and inherently low yields.” – David Ramey

Winemaker Notes - This is the second vintage to come exclusively from the Martinelli Charles Ranch, two miles in from the Pacific. Coming entirely from this vineyard site, our Sonoma Coast Chardonnay shows great depth of flavor, length of finish, aromatic complexity, and a fine balance between richness and delicacy. This vineyard has a typically cool climate, low vigor soil, and a vine selection that generates small berries, small clusters and inherently low yields

It was rated 94 Points by Wine Enthusiast, Virginie Boone, 93 points by Wilfred Wong of Wine.com and 92 points by Jeb Dunnuck and Wine Spectator.

Golden straw colored, medium bodied, ripe, rich apple and pear fruits, lemon zest, earthy, herbal white floral notes with background oak, bright acidity, and a nicely balanced mineral laced finish. 

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?3425802 

https://www.rameywine.com/library/

https://www.rameywine.com/

Marina Cafe Wine Dinner

Fabulous Seafood and Wine dinner at Marina Cafe , Destin (FL)

Visiting, The Cove, our Destin (FL) vacation rental, we dined with neighbors Richard and Victoria at the  Marina Cafe, downtown Destin on Harbor Boulevard on the waterfront overlooking the Destin marina and harbor. 

We arrived shortly before 5PM opening to find a long line of people waiting to get in, an indication of the immense popularity of this local institution, promoted as “the most awarded restaurant in Destin”.. 

Marina Cafe is an upscale steakhouse with an extensive menu offering the local fresh catch seafood, pasta, sushi, wood-fired pizzas, and dishes with Creole, Mediterranean, and Pan-Asian influences, and an extensive wine list.

They offer a variety of dining options, the entire dinning room offers marina/harbor views through the wall of allow to ceiling windows, outdoor seating on the waterside patio, and a wildly popular trendy lounge with full bar. 

During the right season, there are also breathtaking sunset views as well.

Tonight, Thursday, was their “Little Black Dress” night featuring life music in the lounge with classical jazz saxophonist Ike Barkley and vocalist. The line of folks waiting outside streamed in as the doors opened to secure seats. 

From the menu we ordered several seafood selections - The Redfish special, Seared Grouper and the Seabass. 

I ordered the Seared Grouper with oven roasted purple Peruvian potatoes, pineapple rum cream sauce, mango papaya salsa. I have to say it was among the best dinners ever in Destin! 

The others ordered the Pan Seared Red Snapper - blackened red snapper, dirty rice, corn maque choux, creole crawfish cream sauce (above), and the Seared Sea Bass with garlic risotto, garlic braised spinach, lemon burre blanc (below). All the entrees were delicious.  

We took advantage of the BYOB policy and brought our own wine - a red and a white. 

Richard brought this vintage aged St Emilion Grand Cru. 

Château Clos des Prince Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Bordeaux 2014 

Clos des Prince produce this classic Saint-Émilion Grand Cru from their small 7 1/2 acre vineyard located 25 km east of Saint-Émilion, from vines with an average age of 48 years planted to roughly 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. Annual production averages about 12,000 bottles.

Winemaking: The winery uses organic and biodynamic practices. The wine is aged in a mix of new (70%) and one-year-old (30%) barrels. 

This represents the classic style and profile of Saint-Émilion wines with notes of sweet berries and currants transitioning into floral hints. Some profiles highlight more complex undertones of stones, dark fruits, and tangier citrus notes like tangerine.

 

The 2014 Clos des Prince Saint-Émilion Grand Cru is a classic Right Bank red Bordeaux blend, typically 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc.

The 2014 vintage received a score of 88/100 from James Suckling.

Producer/Distributor’s Tasting Notes: “Notes of sweet berries and currants transitioning into floral hints. Some profiles highlight more complex undertones of stones, dark fruits, and tangier citrus notes like tangerine.’

“Palate: Described as having a solid core of fruit supported by superpolished, medium tannins. It generally presents a medium to full body with a focused, delineated structure.”

The 2014 vintage in Saint-Émilion was generally considered a solid, classic year, particularly good for Merlot on the Right Bank. 

At a dozen years, this was likely at the apex of its drinking window, having had an ideal few years to soften and integrate after release, 

Pleasant drinking, dark garnet colored medium full bodied, structured but smooth soft polished sweet dark berry currant fruits with notes of stone minerality, leather, black tea and floral notes with polished structured tannins.

RM 91 points

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/2162596

Venge Vineyards Brown Ranch Vineyard Los Carneros Napa Valley Chardonnay 2019

We brought from our home cellar one of our favorite Chardonnay’s currently at the apex of its drinking profile, from one of our favorite producers. We’ve written often in these pages how we have fun with this “V” label, that we serve with our daughter-in-law Vivianna. Tonight, we brought this to serve with our friend Victoria! 

We’ve featured this label in numerous blogposts, excerpted here. 

Venge Brown Ranch Chardonnay and Venge Vineyards Napa Valley Brown Ranch Carneros Chardonnay 2019

The name Venge has been synonymous with Napa Valley wines for as long as I have been of drinking age since the '70's, but the Venge family wine affiliation actually goes back much earlier, to when Knud Venge emigrated from Denmark to the United States in the early 1900’s. Knud's son, Per Venge, entered in the wine and spirits business and started Vencom Imports, focusing on importing Western European wines and spirits. Per's son, Nils Venge, started in, then left the family business in the 1960's to study viticulture at UC Davis and set the family name in the California winegrowing community.

The Venge family planted viticultural roots in 1976 with the purchase of a 17-acre estate in the Oakville District that was planted to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, establishing them among the winemaking pioneers of Napa Valley.

Buddy, AJ with Nils and Kirk Venge

We met Nils and Dianna Venge on numerous occasions at Napa events and visiting the Venge Vineyards in Oakville during the nineties. We first met their son, Kirk Venge, who engaged in winemaking from an early age while they were developing the Rossini Ranch Vineyards, Winery and caves up in Calistoga. We visited Nils at the Penny Lane Family Reserve Vineyard in Oakville, then drove up to meet Kirk at the Rossini Ranch site in the eastern foothills of Palisade Mountain near Calistoga back in 2002. 

Kirk took over Venge Vineyards in 2008 and has established himself as a talented winemaker making wines in his own style. Kirk has continued the Napa Valley heritage crafting wines from select vineyard sites across Napa and Sonoma Counties worthy of bearing the Venge family name.

We've been collecting Venge wines since their earliest days. We now have fun collecting them with their notable "V" branding to enjoy with our daughter-in-law, Vivianna, as her 'signature' wines, and tonight with friend Victoria. .  

This is a single vineyard designated label sourced from the 30 acre Brown Ranch Vineyard in Carneros, named for the previous cattle rancher owner Nadine Brown. The vineyard is bordered by HdV’s Hyde Vineyard and Beaulieu’s Vineyard No.9 on Old Sonoma Road in the Carneros district, straddling the rolling hills in the southernmost parts of both Sonoma and Napa counties. The cooling winds from the nearby San Pablo Bay, combined with the abundant midday California sunshine, create an ideal environment for producing elegant wines that combine power and finesse, with a perfect balance of crisp acidity and well-ripened fruit.

The property, formerly associated with Saintsbury Winery, was purchased in 2012 by the Renterias. 

The Brown Ranch’s hillside alluvial soils, with Dijon Clone 76 set into the pre-existing rootstock, produces this rich full round Chardonnay, worthy of the iconic Venge name.

Winemaker's notes: The Dijon Clones are modern strains of Chardonnay carefully isolated from grapevine nursery blocks in France. These strains are selected for their incredible ability to produce the best of what the varietal has to offer and therefore have become quite popular with cool climate growers today. The cool and often foggy climate of the Brown Ranch Vineyard, located in central Carneros, Napa, allows for a slow growing season and optimal ripening. This climate aids in the balancing of acidity and lifting tropical aromas in the fruit and thus, in the finished wine. The vines were carefully hand harvested and delivered cool to the winery.

 

Winemaker's Notes: "This wine is stylish and freshly balanced, featuring a light, pale straw presence in the glass with a bouquet of fresh orange citrus, toasted pine nuts, mild allspice, rocky flints, and toasted oak. Crisp, savory pineapple, sweet delicious apple, savory stone fruit, and ripe pear lead into mouthwatering deliciousness. 

The grapes are blended into used French Oak barrels according to a Burgundian style of winemaking, light handed on the usage of new French Oak keeping it to an average of 45%.

This is one of our favorite chardonnays in our cellar right now, produced by Kirk Venge, son of Napa historic and legendary winemaker, Nils Venge. We met Kirk during a visit to Venge Vineyards back in 2005. He has since taken over the family business and developed his own portfolio and brands sourced from several properties across Napa and Sonoma Counties. 

I wrote in more detail about Kirk in a post "Visit to Venge Vineyards and Nils Venge" back in 2021.

This single vineyard designated label is from the 30 acre Brown Ranch (formerly associated with Saintsbury Winery and formerly a cattle grazing ranch taking its name from the former owner, Nadine Brown). The vineyard is bordered by two well known storied vineyards, HdV’s Hyde Vineyard and Beaulieu’s Vineyard No.9 on Old Sonoma Road. 

Sitting down in the Los Carneros region at the bottom of Napa Valley where it converges with the bottom of Sonoma Valley, near the confluence of San Pablo Bay. The cool and often foggy climate effects of the Bay allows for a slow growing season and optimal ripening. This climate aids in the balancing of acidity and lifting tropical aromas in the fruit and the resulting finished wine. 

The property was purchased in 2012 by the Renterias when many of the twenty nine acres of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines were afflicted with a fungi disease, Eutypa (otherwise known as the Dead-arm Dieback) causing trunks or arms of the vines to essentially rot and die. Rather than pulling all of these vines out, their vineyard management team decided to keep the rootstock, cut off the trunk just above the soil and allow a bud from the varietal to grow, training it into a new trunk and then trellising it when it became of size. The Brown Ranch’s hillside alluvial soils, with Dijon Clone 76 set atop pre-existing rootstock, make a Chardonnay that is worthy of producing under the Venge name.

Similarly, this Brown's Ranch chardonnay produced from uniquely afflicted vines is rich, full, round and forward yet stylish and balanced.

Winemakers notes: "A light, pale straw presence in the glass with a bouquet of fresh orange citrus, toasted pine nuts, mild allspice, rocky flints, and toasted oak. Crisp, savory pineapple, sweet delicious apple, savory stone fruit, and ripe pear lead into mouthwatering deliciousness."
 
The Dijon Clones are modern strains of Chardonnay carefully isolated from grapevine nursery blocks in France. These strains are selected for their incredible ability to produce the best of what the varietal has to offer and therefore have become quite popular with cool climate growers today.  

The wine is produced according to a Burgundian practice of winemaking wherein the grapes are traditionally whole cluster pressed and allowed to cold settle prior to filling once used French Oak barrels. Venge says their 'light handed usage of new French Oak, keeping it to an average of 45% of their Chardonnay, with gentle stirring of the lees in the early stages of ageing, further develops refined richness and length of body, while keeping the wine clean and fresh'. The wine is aged for 15 months. 65% native malolactic fermentation to build complexity and body, without compromising the structural integrity of the wine.

Bottled unfiltered, 395 cases were produced.

Consistent with our tasting note published back in 2022; This is one of our favorite chardonnays in our cellar that is drinking very well right now. Golden straw colored, medium full bodied, rich, round flavorful apple and pear fruits with layers of notes of caramel crème brûlée, mineral and citrus mineral and citrus with spicy oak grapefruit, ginger and a touch of peach and almond nut cream, with bright acidity, depth and balance on a full long finish. 

RM 92 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3884491

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2022/07/venge-vineyards-napa-valley-brown-ranch.html

https://www.vengevineyards.com/

https://twitter.com/VengeVineyards

@VengeVineyards 

https://marinacafe.com/