Showing posts with label chardonnay. Show all posts
Showing posts with label chardonnay. Show all posts

Friday, March 14, 2025

Pour Boys Norwegian Salmon Pinot Noir Dinner

Pour Boys Norwegian Salmon Pinot Noir Dinner 

Fellow Pour Boy Dr Dan and Linda hosted us for a Friday Night fine wine dinner. They missed our OTBN abbreviated gathering due to extensive travel in Australia and NZ. Our annual OTBN Wine Extravaganza Weekend this year found our Pour Boys Wine Group fragmented with folks traveling, so we set a raincheck for a future get-together. In any event, Linda and I traveled to Charleston (SC) for an abbreviated OTBN get together with fellow wine buddy & Pour Boy Bill C, and Beth


Linda prepared a delicious fresh catch Norwegian Salmon in a spinach tomato butter cream sauce with balsamic rice and cooked carrots, with a side Caesar Salad. 

Dan served an extensive wine flight starting with vintage Champagne, then Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and finishing with a TBA dessert wine. I supplemented the flight with a Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir from our cellar. 

Wine flight served/tasted right to left.

Prior to dinner, with the champagne, Dan and Linda served shrimp cooked in garlic butter lemon sauce with a selection of artisan cheeses, aged sharp cheddar, havarti and a sweet Swiss, with crackers and marmelaide, charcuterie and mixed nuts. 

Veuve Doussot ‘Ernestine’ Champagne 2015

This vintage Champagne is a blend of predominantly Pinot Noir and some smaller amount of Chardonnay, typical of the Aube region of Champagne.

Golden colored, bright expressive full gripping palate of ripe apple, apricot and citrus fruits with a layer of nut tones and accents of mineral and brioche with bold acidity on the finish.

RM 90 points. 

It was rated 91 points by Roger Voss of Wine Enthusiast.


Chateau Montelena Napa Valley Chardonnay 2020

Chateau Montelena is one of the most historic and pre-eminent labels Napa Valley dating back to 1882, the same producer we took to our wine dinner at Oak Restaurant Charleston recently, when we we traveled to Charleston (SC) for an abbreviated OTBN get together with fellow wine buddy & Pour Boy Bill C, and Beth

It was this classic flagship label from this legendary producer Chateau Montelena that in 1976 gained international acclaim for not only the winery, but for Napa Valley and the US wine industry with the monumental and historic ‘Judgement of Paris wine tasting event’. That tasting event was chronicled in Time Magazine in the June 1976 issue.

That blind tasting by the venerable who’s-who of the French wine and food industry at the Inter-Continental Hotel in Paris pitted four white Burgundies against six California Chardonnays. The French Judges presumed the top-ranking white wine was one of their own, but it was Chateau Montelena’s 1973 Chardonnay, that was rated above all other wines. This seminal event was memorialized in the book "The Judgment of Paris," by George Taber, and was the basis for the 2008 feature film “Bottle Shock”.

Not just wine aficionados, everyone will enjoy watching the entertaining classic movie "Bottle Shock" that chronicles the early days of Napa Valley, early winemakers, and Chateau Montelena, and its legendary finishing first in the epic competition tasting between American and French wines back in 1976. 

The modern era began in 1968, when Jim Barrett purchased the estate and set about replanting the vineyard, outfitting the winery with modern equipment, and applying every effort towards producing the highest quality wines.  

We visited the historic Chateau up in the north end of Napa Valley back in the early nineties, before I was blogging and writing about such activities. 

We had fun with the famous event with a wine dinner featuring wines from the historic tasting, featured in these pages - Dinner Features Judgement of Paris Wines - Dinner Features Judgement of Paris Wines to Commemorate the Tasting event's Anniversary

The Chateau Montelena estate just north of Calistoga with it’s historic 19th century stone Chateau is surrounded by exceptional vineyards with a complex mix of soils, slopes and an ideal climate for producing wines to complete with the great First Growths of France. 

Master Winemaker Bo Barrett, Jim’s son, now runs the estate with the help of Winemaker Matt Crafton and Vineyard Manager Dave Vella.

This 2020 release was awarded 93 points by Decanter and by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. 

This is 100% Chardonnay that matured 10 months in French oak.

Winemaker Matt Crafton notes on the 2020 Chateau Montelena Napa Valley Chardonnay: "The parade of citrus marches on, although the midpalate turns more tropical with starfruit and pineapple. And while there’s still plenty of green apple, the texture and juiciness of Asian pear adds complexity and depth. The acid is consistent and winds its way through the profile, lifting the texture and balancing the suppleness from barrel. This will be a long-lived wine."

“Bright gold in the glass, the parade of citrus marches on, opens with green apple, honeysuckle although the midpalate turns more and orange blossom, citrus in tropical with starfruit and pineapple. particular seems to be most evident, And while there’s still plenty of green as lime leaf and lemon zest at this apple, the texture and juiciness of stage. This vintage was more classic Asian pear adds complexity and depth. rather than overly ripe. The acid is consistent and winds its way surprising. There’s a hint of fresh through the profile, lifting the texture wood and vanilla as well, adding and balancing the suppleness from some nuance without overshadowing barrel. ˜is will be a long-lived wine. the beautiful floral character. ˜e transition to the finish is still somewhat abrupt due to the wine’s youth and dynamism.˜

Straw colored, medium bodied, clean crisp, steely notes of tart citrus, apple and tangerine fruits with notes of minerality on a full round acidic finish. 

RM 91 points. 


https://montelena.com/

Chateau Boswell ‘Absolutely Eloise’ Rita’s Crown Vineyard, Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2016

This limited production single vineyard designated label is from boutique winery Chateau Boswell which remains among a handful of privately owned family wineries amidst the 554 wineries in the Napa Valley in a time when so many have been taken over by the large consolidated corporate brands. 

Founded in 1985 by Richard Thornton Boswell when there were less than a hundred Napa Valley producers, who sold mostly through distribution, he had the foresight to focus on small lot French Style wines to be sold directly to the client. 

Initially, they produced wines from Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon at the stone winery sourced from estate vineyards along the Silverado Trail in Saint Helena. Since then, over the last 25 years, under the direction of Boswell’s wife Susan, they have expanded the portfolio to include Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines from California’s most treasured vineyards. 

Famed legendary winemaker André Tchelistcheff produced those early wines, eventually overseen by consulting winemakers, Philippe Melka and Keith Hock, in collaboration with Chateau Boswell Winemaker Allison Nunnikhoven.

This single vineyard designated Chateau Boswell ‘Absolutely Eloise’ label is from estate Sta. Rita Hills Rita’s Crown vineyard in Santa Barbara County. The rocky terrain and super steep slopes are in the cool–climate area, heavily influenced by the proximity of the Pacific Ocean, are ideal for producing world-class Pinot Noir. The proximity of east-west aspect of the Santa Rosa and Santa Rita Hills allow the cool ocean fog to flow through the Santa Ynez River Valley. 

The chalky marine and volcanic soils are void of nutrients forcing the vines to struggle resulting in tiny intense clusters that produce wines with distinctive terroir driven flavor profiles. 

Recent vintages of this label were awarded 98 and 97 points by Jeb Dunnuck. 

Dark garnet colored medium to full bodied, rich and focused nicely balanced blackberry and black cherry fruits accented by notes of classic Pinot Noir dusty rose petals, leather, smoked herbs and violets with ripe tannins on a smooth polished lingering finish.

RM 94 points. 


Summer Dreams “Twilight” Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2022

This is an another limited production, ultra-premium label, from Napa Valley Bordeaux varietal producer, Jayson Woodbridge, an investment banker from Toronto, Canada who established and operates Hundred Acre Winery. 

From 1989, after visiting vineyards in Canada, Switzerland and France, to the late 1990s, with several investors and partners, Jayson and his wife Helen Mawson, a New Zealand native and US citizen, founded Hundred Acre, ultimately buying out their partners and taking over as sole owners. 

With no winemaking experience, Woodbridge quickly showed his aptitude for learning from luminary winemakers including St Helena-based Philippe Melka. Over the following decade they produced no less than 61, 100-point scores Napa based Bordeaux varietals!.

Over the last decade they turned their attention to producing cool climate Pinot Noir labels from the unique soils and extreme conditions of the West Sonoma Coast in the Sonoma Coast AVA. Sonoma County’s largest AVA extends from San Pablo Bay on the south to Mendocino County in the north. 

Adjacent to the Pacific with its cool coastal climate, with more than twice the annual rainfall of its inland sub-regions in other parts of Sonoma County, these Sonoma Coast sites are warm enough to ripen wine grapes because the vineyards are at elevations above the fog line. 

Branded under the ‘Summer Dreams’ labels, the wines are crafted by winemaker Ashley Holland. “I came up with Summer Dreams because I love summer,” said Woodbridge. “You can still get summer in the winter with these wines. They are made the same way that Hundred Acre is made, coming from very low-yielding vineyards in the Sonoma Coast, sorted berry by berry.”

Ashley’s wine career spanned California and Oregon, and Australia, New Zealand, and Uruguay, working with noted winemakers Bill Price, Bob Cabral, and Ryan Prichard. She was a natural fit with legendary Woodbridge. Ashley and Jayson explored over a hundred vineyards before selecting sites, slope, Goldridge soils, and vine age as their primary qualifiers.

“We give Ashley everything she needs, but we leave it to her. We’re not trying to steal her thunder; we’re her spiritual guides.”

This ‘Twilight’ label is 100% Pinot Noir from the West Sonoma Coast sub-regions Annapolis and Fort Ross-Seaview AVAs.  Annapolis is in the remote northwest corner of the Sonoma Coast AVA near Sea Ranch, the coolest region of the AVA due not only to the close proximity to the Pacific Ocean, but also the 500 to 800-foot elevation of the vineyards that puts them in the foggy and windy inversion layer that sweeps up the Wheatfield Fork of the Gualala River.

Fort Ross-Seaview is the most coastal of the Sonoma Coast AVA’s sub-regions, located on the far western edge of the AVA, and closest to the Pacific Ocean. The region is characterized by steep, rugged mountains and ridges that rise up from the ocean, and is home to some of the most dramatic vineyard sites in California.

Winemaker notes for Twilight Pinot Noir - “The full-bodied palate beams with flavors of wild blueberries and licorice, white pepper and cloves that lead to an undercurrent of violet. Seductive, with a velvety texture and seamless freshness, this Pinot Noir finishes long.’

“A dark-edged Pinot Noir with dark fruit, black cherry, and black plum with hints of the salty sea-spray and misty fog rolling into the Sonoma Coast from the Pacific Ocean.’

“Twilight is the most powerful time in life, the point between light and darkness, between day and night, when we are at our most productive, and this wine, according to proprietory Jayson Woodbridge, embodies all that. 'It has incredible staying power, showcasing Pinot Noir at its most muscular—like a warrior Pinot. It will carry you through the darkest times,' he says, and indeed, it does carry the light and dark as it unfurls with black cherry and spiced plum fruits, dark chocolate, and saline minerals. Its rich, creamy, and powerful character is underscored by fabulous minerality and brisk acidity. This wine makes a compelling argument for the power of Pinot—never underestimate it. Jayson doesn’t care if you accept the style; he makes it boldly and unapologetically. 'It’s like the Darth Vader of Pinot—dark, intense, yet undeniably good,' he says. Fabulous umami notes of long-roasted beef and intense charred mineral character, seaweed, and everything the ocean can deliver in your glass are also present. 

Blind tasted, few would select this as a Pinot Noir with its rich, dense, concentrated full round dark fruits and might think it a Syrah or a Bordeaux varietal. The give-away is the dusty rose petal ripe, succulent black cherry and black plum fruits with savory soy minerality and firm but elegant polished lingering finish. 

RM 95 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4607724

https://summerdreamswines.com/sonoma-pinot-noirs

Kracher Nouvelle Vague ‘#2” Chardonnay Trockenberenausliese (TBA) 2002 

We finished with this delicious unctuous dessert wine with pie with fresh berries and an assortment of chocolates. 

This is from the estate established by Alois Kracher Sr., grandfather to the current generation proprietors, a pioneer who recognised the potential of the region long before many of his peers. Alois Senior produced prized sweet wines from noble rotten grapes well before it was widely practiced. 

The Kracher Winery lies in the Seewinkel area of Austria´s Burgenland. Here, through the evaporative periods of Lake Neusiedl, the evening fog and the warm Pannonian climate, continuous warm-humid weather patterns are dominant and, therefore, allow for Botrytis cinerea to be generated. This is what provides the basis for the fantastic sweet wines such as Beerenauslese and this Trockenbeerenauslese.

Next generation Alois Kracher Jr., “Luis” Kracher, was also one of the greatest visionaries in winemaking and was a driving force behind the “Austrian wine wonder” during the 1990s and was instrumental in the renaissance of noble sweet wines. Trained as a chemist, he began his winemaking career at his father’s estate when he was twenty-two years old before his tragic premature death at the age of thirty. Alois Kracher, who died in December 2007, is remembered as one of the most important ambassadors for Austrian Wine all over the world.

Today, third generation Gerhard Kracher manages the estate with his life partner Yvonne, taking over on the passing of his father in 2007. From 2001, Gerhard gradually increased his responsibilities, representing the winery at international presentations promoting the ‘joie de vivre’ in the South of France, always looking ahead to experiment with new trends and innovations. 

Gerard created a new style of dessert wine, in which the fruit character, finesse and balance of the wine was far more important that just mere sweetness. The 1991 vintage brought Kracher international acclaim, and since, his name has become synonymous with cult sweet wines, especially in America. 

The Kracher portfolio includes the grape varieties Welschriesling, Chardonnay, Traminer, Scheurebe, Muskat-Ottonel and, from time to time even Zweigelt, Alois Kracher created each year 10 to 15 different Trockenbeerenauslesen wines in two different styles.

Zwischen den Seen (“in between the lakes”) are the wines which are matured in large wooden barrels or steel tanks, and undergo long yeast contact in order to deliver freshness, fruit und primary grape aromas into the bottle. The wines of the Nouvelle Vague line are marked by barrique ageing with air exchange during maturation. They are vivid and lively in taste, depth, spiciness and length, these wines notable characteristics.

Representing a small family business amongst the big wine dynasties of the world, Alois Kracher has gained widespread recognition and numerous awards including being honoured by Great Britain´s renowned Wine Magazine with the coveted "Wine Maker of the Year" title for an impressive seven times - in 1994, 1997, 1998, 2000, 2001, 2006 and 2008.

The range offered by what is undoubtedly the most widely known Austrian wine estate features the world-famous Trockenbeerenauslesen as well as Beerenauslesen, Auslesen, Eiswein (ice wine) and small amounts of dry white and red wines.

We hold a dozen labels of Kracher wines in our collection going back almost three decades. I acquired this label upon release, long ago, and shared a couple bottles of with Dan back at that time. 

Winemaker notes for this Chardonnay Nouvelle Vague - offers aromas of pineapple, apple jelly and brown spice. The palate is creamy and thickly-rich, full of spiced apple, honey, and butterscotch, and the finish solid but overtly sweet and – at least as yet – relatively simple. 

This was awarded 94 points by European pundit Falstaff, 90 points by Wine Spectator and 89 by The Wine Advocate. 

These sweet dessert wines in top vintages can age for several decades. Starting out straw colored they darken as they age turning golden, the hues of weak tea, and if held long enough darken to almost coffee color. 

Consistent with note from I first reviewed this wine back in 2011 when I wrote, "Honey color - full bodied, thick, chewy apricot, hints of grapefruit citrus, touch of pineapple and smoke."

RM 92 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=50493

http://www.kracher.at/en/

Sunday, February 23, 2025

Walter Hansel Chardonnay at Dunlin Auberge Resort John’s Island SC

Walter Hansel Chardonnay at Dunlin Auberge Resort John’s Island SC

Enjoying a relaxing getaway weekend in South Carolina, we checked out the new Dunlin Resort on John’s Island overlooking the Kiahwah River and Kiawah Island. We lounged on the porch enjoying the view and afternoon sun and sipped on a pleasant drinking Chardonnay with pimento cheese and crackers plate. 



Walter Hansel "North Slope Vineyard" Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2022 

This is from Hansel Family Vineyards and Winery, located in the Southern Russian River Valley appellation in west central Sonoma County, west of the town of Santa Rosa. Starting with just 257 vines, they have grown to 80 acres of contiguous vineyards consisting of a total of 11 different clones - 7 Pinot Noir and 6 Chardonnay.

The area produces premium Chardonnay and Pinot Noir taking advantage of the cool evenings and warm afternoons, moderated by the fog that rolls in from the nearby Pacific coast each evening and lingering until mid-morning the next day. The consistent weather pattern from June through August allows for slow ripeness; long fruit hang time resulting in wines with intense flavors and abundant natural acidity. 

We visited the Russian River Valley in Sonoma County during or Napa / Sonoma Wine Experience in 2017.

Walter Hansel are known for high QPR - Quality Price Ratio priced wines. They produce 5 different vineyard designated or estate Chardonnays from different portions of the vineyards; each from one or more different clones that are planted based on the soil variations provides a variety of flavors.

The North Slope Vineyard site slopes 40 feet South to North with terrific sun exposure throughout the day and into the sunset. This is a field blend of French clone 95 and clone 76. These wines tend to reflect their Burgundy heritage. 

Vinous awarded this label 92 points. 

Golden butter colored, light bodied, nicely balanced tangy soft light buttery citrus and apricot notes with hints of spice and oak on a tangy finish. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.walterhanselwinery.com/product/2022-Chardonnay---North-Slope


The Dunlin Auberge Resort - Kiawah River, South Carolina

Wednesday, February 19, 2025

Liquid Farms Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay

Liquid Farms Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay with Chicken Kiev

Linda prepared a Chicken Kiev casserole dinner with chicken, ham and Swiss cheese  served with brown rice.

I pulled from the cellar this old world style Chardonnay from Santa Rita Hills, Santa Barbara County

Established in 2009, Liquid Farm is a small production producer of Old World style Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from a dozen vineyard sources throughout Santa Barbara County including one of the coolest of California AVA's – the Sta. Rita Hills. 

Liquid Farms is owned and operated by Jeff Nelson, a twenty year wine business veteran who worked for some of the top French Champagne and Burgundy houses. He started the oddly named Liquid Farm in 2009 in collaboration with Brandon Sparks-Gillis of Dragonette Cellars and winemaker James Sparks.

The name Liquid Farm was derived to ‘create awareness about what happens above ground and below ground, and tell the story of how both are inextricably linked to wine, a product of the earth and the human touch - Liquid from Farming’.

Liquid Farms based in Los Olivos, CA, started in 2009 with only 4 barrels of Chardonnay, two from the White Hill vineyard in the Sta. Rita Hills, and two barrels with a profile of warmer tones and more textured reminiscent of Meursault and wines from the Côte d' Or (Slope of Gold), hence to be named ‘Golden Slope’.

Since then, they expanded the portfolio with chardonnay grapes from other vineyards in the Sta. Rita Hills and the neighboring sister AVA of Santa Maria.

In 2011 they added a Bandol-inspired Rosé of Mourvedre sourced from Happy Canyon AVA. In 2014, they produced their first of four Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noirs. They gained notoriety after being highlighted in 2013 by the Los Angeles Times and by Eric Asimov of the New York Times, and gaine praise from critics including Steve Tanzer. Thereafter, the tiny production hand-crafted wines would sell out quickly.

In 2021, they added their first blanc de blancs Champagne, imported from the famous Côte des Blancs Grand Cru in collaboration with Pertois-Moriset (a family-owned Champagne House with over 70 years of history), and released under the Liquid Farm label.

The Santa Ynez Valley in Santa Barbara County is uniquely situated East to West (most mountain valleys are North-South). This allows cool ocean air to come inland and creates the perfect environment for cool-climate wines Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, as well as warmer climate wines like their Mourvedre based Rosé.

We toured the area during our Santa Barbara County Wine Experience in the spring of 2022 - see samples of numerous posts at https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/search?q=Los+Olivos and https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2022/05/zaca-mesa-winery-and-vineyards-visit.html.

The Liquid Farm label is a da Vinci-type sketch of dandelion root from artist Val Littlewood, a nature illustrator from the UK. She was able to crafted her fatefully misnamed beet root drawing into the Liquid Farm image by coloring the bulb and adding in the flower (figuratively, the grape) that transports what is found below ground to "above ground."

Liquid Farm "White Hill" Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay 2022

This 2022 White Hill Chardonnay is sourced from vineyards throughout the Sta. Rita Hills AVA - 43% Hilltop, 17% Clos Pepe, 17% Spear, 14% Kessler-Haak and 9% Rita’s Crown.

It was fermented in neutral French oak and aged 10 months in a combination of neutral oak and stainless steel

Winemaker’s tasting notes - “Meyer Lemon, river rock, chalk, tangerine zest and white flowers. Bright acidity, tense but with a very satisfying round mouthfeel. We take inspiration for this wine from the famed Chardonnays of Chablis. The pronounced acidity and precision of this wine lend to its agability and appeal to those that prefer a leaner style of Chardonnay.” 

1000 cases were made

This was rated 94 points by Vinous.

Golden colored, medium bodied, bright vibrant aromatic and expressive tropical fruits with notes of floral, tangerine, chalk, mineral and hints of mint on the tangy acidic finish

RM 91 points. 

Saturday, February 1, 2025

Kokomo Chardonnay at Entourage DG

Kokomo Chardonnay at Entourage DG

Saturday night out, we returned to Entourage DG (Downers Grove) with friends/neighbors Richard and Edessa. 

Downtown Downers Grove was bustling and Entourage was hopping, lively and highly energized, full to capacity, as one would expect on a weekend night. 

We were able to promptly secure a table based on agreeing to be finished at the allotted time, to allow them to honor their commitment to a pre-arranged party in the rear dining room, which we happily obliged. 

We were served by Jim who showed amazing articulation of the menu selections and special’s offerings. A journeyman with roots in the western suburbs, it was fun reminiscing about growing up in earlier days in downtown Downers Grove and Elmhurst. 

We were joined by host/owner/proprietor Anthony Vai, fun catching up on happenings and successes at Entourage Restaurant Group, on family and common acquaintances, and ruminating on some Chicago architecture and history based on the fabulous screenshots on the wall video board. 

We also got to hear and gain insights on some of the culinary science in formulating and preparing and updating some of our favorite dining options, notably the Chilean Seabass, Truffle Risotto and the newly crafted sauce, and the Lobster Shrimp Rigatoni, and the signature Waygu Beef meatloaf creation which I blogged about from our visit last week -Fontanafredda Barolo with Meatloaf at Entourage DG.

GM Catherine was on duty and checked in and we got to catch up with her as well. 

Not surprisingly, I ordered what has become one of my absolute favorites, the Signature Miso Marinated Chilean Seabass with Broccolini, Charred Peppers, Shiitake Mushrooms and Black Truffle Risotto, Yuzu and the new offering approach, Lemon Butter Sauce. 

I wrote last month in Spectacular dining experience at Entourage Restaurant Downers Grovethat this was extraordinary, delicious in all respects, the fish artfully prepared and served hot, and the Black Truffle Risoto was spectacular. I love it all, the harmony and synthesis of the many artfully crafted robust flavors. Edessa also ordered it and was equally impressed and pleased. 

Linda and Richard both tried and raved about the Lobster and Shrimp Rigatoni with Tomato, Spinach, Charred Jalapeño and  Lemon in White Wine Parmesan Cream Sauce with Roasted Garlic Toast. 

Both were pleasantly surprised to discover the lobster medallion tail topping the dish, understated in the menu description, a nice surprise in preparation and presentation! 

Anthony was surprised I didn’t bring BYOB from our extensive cellar, but I had reviewed on-line the limited but carefully selected wine list, and planned to  try a new label. 

Kokomo “Peter’s Vineyard” Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast California Chardonnay 2022

Family owned and operated Kokomo Winery was started by Owner and Winemaker Erik Miller in 2004, a fellow Hoosier who named it after his hometown of Kokomo, Indiana, which is near Linda’s hometown and family farm in North Central Carroll County, Indiana. (Funny, they showcase their “Boilermaker” collection of wines, honoring the Purdue Boilermakers’, mascot of the Big Ten University not far from Linda’s family homestead, arch rival to our beloved Indiana University “Hoosiers”, but the one she grew up supporting.) 

The Winery sits on the East side of Dry Creek Valley, twenty miles north of Santa Rosa, off the main route 101, midway between the towns of Healdsburg and Geyserville. The winery and tasting room is located at Timber Crest Farms, sitting amid 120 acres of vineyards, overlooking the valley.

Kokomo produces over a dozen different varietal wines and several single vineyard designated labels which are farmed by his partner in the winery, grower Randy Peters. Kokomo Wines strive to showcase the terroir of the their vineyard sources in the three distinctive appellations of Sonoma County - Russian River, Dry Creek and Alexander Valleys. They also offer some wines sourced from the Sonoma Valley Moon Mountain District. 

This Peter’s Vineyard Designated label is 100% Chardonnay sourced from a site in the Russian River Valley, west Sebastopol, next to Luther Burbank's Farm where the soil is rich with Goldridge sandy loam. There the vines are exposed to consistent coastal fog, which calls for extended hang time and more development for the fruit. 

I was a bit hesitant to order this bottle, especially to be paired with such a magnificent dinner, since our awareness of Kokomo is more modest entry level wines, less discriminating than the premium and ultra-premium labels we tend to enjoy. 

We see their entry level labels widely distributed but have never had any of their more premium labels. Note they show two dozen different offerings on their website. Never-the-less I gave it a shot and found it to be an over-achiever to my perception of the brand, meeting our hopeful expectations for suitably pairing with our dinner. 

Winemaker notes for this release: “Reminiscent of a classic white Burgundy but with a California twist, this Chardonnay displays vibrant minerality accompanied by the mouth-watering natural acidity typically found in Peters Vineyard. Stirring the lees (Sur Lie) was performed to this lot consistently once per week through malolactic fermentation. We feel like this gives the wine body, texture and depth while maintaining its graceful acidity and restraint. This Chardonnay is elegant enough to pair with delicate foods and delicious enough to drink by itself after a long day.”

This was aged 11 months in 100% French Oak, 30% New.

Straw colored, light to medium bodied, tangy crisp acidity highlights the subtle pear, spice and peach tones accented by light sprites of oak on a pleasurable moderate finish. 

RM 89 points.  



Monday, January 13, 2025

Parmesan Crusted Grouper and Jordan Chardonnay at Fat Clemenza’s Miramar Beach

After a rainy day car outing touring the Florida 30A coastal region, upon return to the Cove, our vacation home in Destin, FL, we stopped for dinner at Clemenza’s Restaurant in Miramar Beach, featured in a recent blogpost, excerpted here. 

As I wrote in that post - Italian Dining at Clemenza’s Restaurant in Miramar Beach was founded by an old dear friend of one of our friends and neighbors and how they play polo together in the early days of our equestrian community at home, and Dominic Damiano introduced our friend to his wife decades ago.

The local Emerald Coast Magazine wrote that when “Dominic Damiano moved to the Emerald Coast in 2008, life was almost perfect except he couldn’t find good Italian food. His group of friends and family who had moved from different parts of Italy to Destin, also missed the flavors of home, so they decided to open their own restaurant, Fat Clemenza’s, and do what they do best — serve up recipes passed down for generations”. 

Fat Clemens’s Restaurant is named for the legendary chef/cook in the Godfather movie series, the restaurant was in many ways modeled after Tufano’s which he owned in an Italian neighborhood in Chicago.

“It’s important to me to stay true to tradition and heritage, which is why we import a lot of ingredients,” said Damiano. “I want customers to experience these dishes as my family would, to feel like part of the family when here.”

“The eggplant parmigiana.is made from Damiano’s grandmother’s recipe, the Fresh Fish special is caught locally. The olive oils, pasta, tomatoes, flour and seasonings are imported from Italy. Twice a week, a shipment of sausage arrives from Chicago. All other ingredients, especially seafood, is sourced locally.” 
We returned to dine at the restaurant, almost walking distance, from our vacation home, that we discovered on our last trip. The restaurant is warm, inviting, comfortable and cozy, with the small dining room nestled up against the small bar adjacent the wood fired oven. 

The extensive menu features Italian fare, wood fired pizzas, calzones, a broad selection of two dozen pasta dishes, and a variety of traditional Italian meat dishes. 

I ordered the Daily Chef’s Specialties from the chalkboard menu posted on the wall - Parmesan Crusted Grouper with capers and artichoke, served over angel hair pasta. 


Linda ordered the daily special Clam Chowder and the House Salad.  As with our earlier dining experience, both our selections were delicious, prepared artfully, served promptly, piping hot in ample portions.
We ordered from the adjacent chalkboard, one of the featured select wines suggestions to accompany the daily specials, a California Chardonnay.
Jordan Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2021 

This is an iconic well known brand known for Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, crafted in a European style that allows them to pair well with a broad range of foods. Jordan’s winemaking focuses on the ‘wine's fruit and acidity rather than alcohol and tannin, and achieving elegance and balance in the bottle
Founders Tom and Sally Jordan acquired the 1200 acre property in Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley, and established Jordan Vineyard & Winery in 1972, inspired by the great wine estates of France.
They enlisted the legendary André Tchelistcheff, as consulting enologist, and he was instrumental in establishing Jordan’s Francophile style of winemaking becoming one of the best wineries and brands in Sonoma County, with the help of winemaker Rob Davis. Davis guided Jordan winemaking from the inaugural 1976 Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon and inaugural 1979 Jordan Chardonnay achieving the remarkable quality and consistency of Jordan wines for more than four decades until his retirement in 2019. 
On the 1,200 property they planted Jordan Estate with roughly 120 acres of a dozen small vineyard blocks of grapevines, 16 acres with four parcels of olive trees, a two-acre chef’s garden as well as, their home and a second lake. Unique amongst Healdsburg wineries, they left more than three-quarters of the scenic estate, roughly 900, preserved as natural habitat with open spaces,  craggy oak trees and lakes providing habitat for geese, rabbits, turkeys and coyotes.  
Winemaker Maggie Kruse took over for Rich Davis and produced this classic California Chardonnay in 2021,  sourced from cooler vineyard sites in the western Russian River Valley. The wine spent half of its life in stainless steel, and was aged 5.5 months in 100% new French oak.
Winemaker Notes - “One of the most balanced Jordan Chardonnays to date. Flavors of juicy citrus, Asian pear and lemon peel balance seamlessly with the subtle French oak notes. The cooler-climate vineyard sourcing this year brings even more lively acidity and purity of fruit on the palate—making this vintage especially food-friendly and cellar-worthy.”
J'nai Gaither of Decanter gave this release 93 points. 
Pale golden straw colored medium bodied, rich but nicely balanced full round ripe fruit notes of pear, Meyer lemon and apple with flinty spice notes and hints of vanilla accentuating the vibrant acidity masking the French oak on the lively finish. 
RM 91 points. 
https://www.jordanwinery.com/

https://twitter.com/jordanwinery

https://www.jordanwinery.com/

Sunday, December 29, 2024

Family Christmas Celebration and Wine Dinner

Family Christmas Celebration and Wine Dinner

The entire family, our four kids and their eleven kids/grandkids gathered at our house for a gala Christmas celebration, gift exchange and dinner. It’s wonderful that we are near to each other and enjoy so much getting together - especially the kids with their cousins. 

Linda prepared a fabulous dinner highlighted by ramekins of lobster tails and buttered croutons, beef tenderloin as main courses. Sides included twice baked potatoes, mashed potatoes haricot verts and chopped salad. 

Also set out was a selection of artisan cheeses with crackers, an extensive selection of Christmas cookies and festive punch.

From the cellar we had a broad wine flight of champagne, whites and reds.    

The wine flight - 

Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 1998

Croix Estate Narrow Gauge Sonoma County Chardonnay 2019

Radio-Couteau RRV Savoy Vineyard Chardonnay 2017

Chateau Palmer Margaux 1981 (Magnum)

Cliff Lede High Fidelity 2018

Fantesca Spring Mtn District Cabernet Sauvignon 2004


Table one of two … 



Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 1998

It’s easy to see why this is a timeless classic Champagne, Dom Pérignon, the benchmark of premium French Champagne. A perfect bottle to close out the year of our 50th anniversary, with family for our holiday celebration. 



At 25 years, I wondered what condition this vintage bottle would be in and it was perfect, still at the apex of its drinking profile and showing no signs of diminution whatsoever. This was perhaps the best Champagne I think I’ve ever had - delicious.  

Deep dark golden color, medium bodied, fine mousse, and complex bouquet and flavors of brioche, yellow apple, pear and hint of peach with touch of mineral, lightly toasted almonds, refined acidity, a creamy mid palate, and a long and focused finish. 

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?129100

We then moved to two Sonoma County Chardonnays

Croix Estate Narrow Gauge Sonoma County Chardonnay 2019

This Croix Estate Narrow Gauge brand and the Croix Estate winery in Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, is the ‘sister’ winery to Venge Vineyards in Calistoga Napa Valley, of winemaker/producer Kirk Venge. The rather odd, unique name is a testament to the pioneer entrepreneurs and their historic narrow gauge railroad that connected the producers in Sonoma County with the marketplace in San Francisco. 

As described on the producer website, “It was the Carter brothers, in an act of political and economic defiance, that introduced the narrow gauge railroad movement to Northern California in the late 1870’s. In what has become known as the bay areas first example of radical, technological innovation, the introduction of an alternative goods distribution system was a direct challenge to the hegemony of the Central Pacific Railroad’s grip on the transportation of goods. Prior to the injection of this new go-to-market path, Sonoma County’s local and regional marketplace was constrained by a handful of distribution centers that were costly in time and material to the average, family-owned producer. Only when the more affordable and nimble narrow gauge tracks and trains were put into place in Northern California did the region see the rapid expansion of agricultural and industrial development take place. Our Narrow Gauge Chardonnay celebrates the historical significance of such a movement.” 

Kirk grew up in the wine business working in the vineyards and winery aside his legendary dad, Nils Venge. Born and raised in Rutherford, Napa Valley, Kirk Venge earned his degree in Viticulture and Enology at the prestigious University of California, Davis.  After graduating, he set upon buying the Venge brand and winery from his family. From that foundation in Napa Valley, he ventured across the Mayacamas divide and set roots in Sonoma County, where his mother was born. 

In addition to Croix Estate and his namesake vineyard and winery, Venge Vineyards, he is consulting winemaker for several, prominent micro-producers in Napa Valley.

We’ve been fans of Nils’ and Kirk’s wines since the earliest days and first met Kirk while visiting Nils at the old Penny Lane Family Vineyards at the Saddleback Winery in Rutherford and he took us up to the Rossini Ranch estate in Calistoga back in 2002 (shown above) which was under initial construction at the time. 

Croix Estate Narrow Gauge Chardonnay is sourced from estate vineyard in the heart of Russian River Valley to the Pacific Coast, and from superior vineyards throughout Sonoma County. They have relationships with our growers across nearly two dozen vineyard sites within the region. 

This Croix Estate Narrow Gauge Chardonnay is a blend of select vineyards grown throughout Russian River Valley. With access to many of the best sites in the appellation, we felt compelled to create a wine that expresses the regional position in its entirety. These notable vineyards include Morelli Lane Vineyard - Dutton Ranch, Floodgate Vineyard, Calesa Vineyard, Bacigalupi Vineyard, Ritchie Vineyard, and Richard Dinner Vineyard.

Winemaker notes - “A fuller, yet bright and refreshing style of Chardonnay, this wine has a golden straw presence in the glass with a bouquet of raw honey, marmalade, fresh citrus zest, toasted pine nuts, rocky flints, all spice, toasted oak and lusciousness on the nose that is ever so inviting. Island ripe pineapple, apple, stone fruit, and crisp pear leave the mouthwatering in a cascade of pleasure.

Wine Enthusiast gave this release 94 points.

Golden straw colored, medium bodied, there was consensus that the crisp tropical and stone fruit tones were rather muted giving way to the mineral, rock flint and pine nuts, taking away, detracting from the potential of the terroir.

RM 92 points. 



Radio-Couteau RRV Savoy Vineyard Chardonnay 2017

We wrote about Radio-Coteau and their portfolio of single vineyard designated wines in an earlier post last spring -  Radio Coteau Sonoma Coast Los Colinas Syrah, excerpted below.

The interesting moniker Radio-Coteau (rā’ dē ō – kō tō’) is a French colloquial expression suggesting “word of mouth” , which literally translated means “broadcasting from the hillside”. Ironically, the origin of use of the term is from the French Northern Rhone wine region. The odd name is reminiscent of one of our favorite producer, Vieux Telegraph, ironically from the Rhône River Valley, but deriving its name for a different historical reason

This is the handicraft of Eric Sussman, winegrower and proprietor of the the property going back to the early 2000s. While scouting vineyard sites for the first Radio-Coteau vintage, he met and began a relationship with Robert Von Weidlich, the owner of the property at that time. The 2002 Radio-Coteau Von Weidlich Zinfandel was the first product of that collaboration.

Eric established Radio-Coteau in 2002, focusing on the north coast vineyards of western Sonoma County and the Anderson Valley up to the north in Mendocino County. 

The current owners acquired the Radio-Coteau historic 42-acre Estate vineyard and ranch located on a ridgetop above the town of Occidental in 2012.  The estate winery was originally named Joseph Morelli & Sons before Prohibition, the Lemorel winery (as it was later known) dates back to 1892, when the first vines were planted. 

The estate lies ten miles from the ocean on a ridgetop above Occidental, halfway between Santa Rosa and the Pacific coast, situated 800 feet above sea level, the property is a diverse agroecosystem, or terroir, with beneficial Goldridge soil.  The benchland location is comprised of the fine sandy loam Goldridge soil, remnants of an ancient seabed, which provides excellent drainage and moderate fertility.

Eric, a New York State native, developed his passion for winegrowing while studying agriculture at Cornell University. After spending several years in Washington’s Yakima Valley, he worked in France as an apprentice working the 1995 vintage in Bordeaux at Baron Philippe de Rothschild of Pauillac, and 1996 in Burgundy at Domaine Comte Armand of Pommard and Domaine Jacques Prieur of Meursault. There he gained respect and appreciation for the intrinsic connection between land, people and the wine they produce.

Returning to the US, he spent a year at Bonny Doon Winery in Santa Cruz, before settling in Western Sonoma County where he spent four years as the associate winemaker for Dehlinger.

Most of his portfolio of wines are sourced from the Sonoma Coast AVA, which borders the Green Valley and Russian River Valley AVAs but he also produces some wines sourced from remote sites such as this one. 

Radio-Coteau has established blocks of Syrah and old-vine Zinfandel, and recently replanted existing acreage to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Riesling. The estate has three vineyards.

This 2017 Radio-Coteau is a single vineyard designated wine from the Savoy Vineyards up near the town of Philo in Mendocino County, north of Sonoma. 

The producer says of this site - “ Burgundy has proven that quality Chardonnay and Pinot Noir can be grown in the same soil, Corton hill being the classic example. Wines from this special place inspired our decision to make Chardonnay from the organically farmed Savoy Vineyard, whose soil and climate are also ideal for both Burgundian varietals.” 

This 2017 release was rated 91-93 points by Antonio Galloni of Vinous. 

Golden straw colored, medium bodied, full round, nicely balanced mineral, slightly obtuse sharp forward pear and lemon citrus fruits with melon, floral and stone fruits notes on a tangy acidic finish.

RM 92 points. 

Moving to the red wine flight with the beef tenderloin …

Chateau Palmer Margaux 1981 (Magnum)

This magnum birth year vintage Bordeaux is the oldest of a vertical collection of large format bottles for each of the kid’s birth years, and probably the most challenged questionable vintage for long term aging. 

We toured the grounds of the magnificent Chateau and estate, just a couple of blocks from our B&B rooming house, during our visit to Margaux in 2019, but traded phone calls and emails several times with the producer during our visit and failed to set up our private tour and tasting. 

At twenty three years the foil was intact, the label was perfect, and the most important cork was soft, spongy and disintegrated upon removal, and the fill level was bottom of neck, top of shoulder, (as shown) showing signs revealing its age. 


I decanted this several hours before serving. 

This release was awarded 92 points by John Gilman in 2016, 90-92 points by Wine Advocate back in 2002, and 91 points by Vinous most recently in 2023. Wine Spectator gave it 89 points. 

Despite being from magnum which should age more gracefully and longer than a standard bottle, ours was showing its age and was past its prime drinking window.

The color was dark garnet colored, showing some murkiness and slight bricking on the brim. Medium to full bodied, the nice dark berry bouquet persisted while the somewhat subdued slightly austere fruit flavor notes were off set by a slight vegetative musky funkiness, with earthy, black tea, leather and tobacco notes on a moderate, fine tannin laced finish. 

RM 86 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=22774


Fantesca Napa Valley Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 

Fantesca Estate and Winery, one of our favorite Napa Valley producers is owned by Duane and Susan Hoff, who moved on from their careers as executives at Best Buy for this Spring Mountain District winery above St Helena in the Mayacamas Range between Mt Veeder and Diamond Mountain. 

We still held several cases and a vertical collection spanning a decade from our visits to the Fantesca Estate & Winery during our Napa Valley Spring Mountain Experience in the autumn of 2009, and earlier during our Napa Wine Experience 2007. 

The Fantesca Spring Mountain District Estate and Winery (shown right), in the early years’ vintages, from 2002-2007, were managed by winemakers Nils and Kirk Venge; then in 2008 they teamed up with legendary winemaker Heidi Barrett. 

From their ten acre vineyard, they produce ultra-premium 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, and there is an acre planted in Petit Verdot. 

They also source grapes from the Sonoma County Russian River Valley to produce a bright crisp full flavored Burgundian Chardonnay, the first ever by Heidi Barrett. 

Fantesca products make for festive serving features or as elegant gifts as are lavishly packaged in stylish heavy etched glass bottles with painted 'labels', or in original wood cases. 

The elegant upscale Fantesca packaging and branding features etched and painted weighty bottles each explaining the namesake Fantesca.'

The name of the winery comes from a character in the Italian comedy troupe that inspired Cirque Du Soleil. La Fantesca was the single female character in the early theatrical performances of Commedia dell’Arte. Both the lover and the equal of the protagonist, Harlequin, Fantesca could always be counted on to charm the audience. 

Owners, Duane and Susan Hoff write that "when we heard Fantesca described as ”Sexy, Smart, and Unpretentious,” we knew we had found a name worth living up to."'

Being extraordinary marketeers, Duane and Susan brought on DLynn Proctor as wine ambassador Director. I first met DLynn when he was Ambassador and Education Director at legendary Australian producer Penfolds when he hosted  a Penfolds Grange Wine Tasting Flight here in Chicago. What fun to meet DLynn in person having enjoyed watching his pursuit of his Master Sommelier Certification in the entertaining critically acclaimed documentary movie SOMM which is a feature on Netflix.

DLynn is more than a sommelier; he's a celebrity in his own right, having also appeared as Kevin Hart's sommelier in the Peacock Original TV Series "Hart to Heart" in addition to his prominent role in the documentary series 'SOMM,'he  and add "Associate Producer" to his titles with his cameo and behind-the-scenes work in the Netflix Original film 'Uncorked.'

We first met owner/producer Dwayne Hoff when we hosted him in our home during his promotion tour to Chicago shortly after acquiring the Spring Mountain Estate. 

Duane Hoff pouring 2002 vintage while visiting
Rick & Linda 
in Chicago during 2004 vintage
release marketing outreach tour.
.
Fantesca Estate and Winery, Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon 2004.

This bottle included a fun, unique, creative Fantesca ‘Fortune Corkie’, a contest for all consumers to participate to submit entries in exchange for wine!



Fantesca Napa Valley, Spring Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon is packaged in an elegant etched glass, painted bottle. 
(2006 shown)

Medium-full bodied, dark garnet color; complex but smooth and polished with bright forward fruits of black currant, dark berry and cherry, accented by sweet dark chocolate, a hint of cassis, and a tone of spice on the lingering refined tannin finish.

RM 91 points.




Cliff Lede “High Fidelity” Napa Valley Red 2018

Ryan brought from his cellar this ultra-premium Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend which he acquired as part of his wine club member allocation. This was my WOTN - Wine of the Night (of the reds, aside the Champagne). 

This is from Cliff Lede estate vineyards, established in 2002, they encompass sixty acres in the famed Stags Leap District. Owner Cliff Lede has assembled a world class team with Vineyard Architect David Abreu  and Winemaker Christopher Tynan. 

We've visited the Cliff Lede estate on several of our Napa Valley wine trips and several of our wine buddies including son Ryan source allocated wines as members of their club. 

Winemaker notes - “The 2018 vintage was a glorious growing year for Napa Valley. A frost-free and uniform bud break was followed by steady spring weather during flowering, allowing for an even and generous fruit set. Summer conditions were moderate, with warm days and cool nights, ideal for slow and steady grape maturation.”

“Optimal ripeness was achieved thanks to an early autumn of consistently warm, but not hot, days. The pristine ripening conditions allowed for very intense fruit flavor concentrations. The wines show exceptional balance with concentrated, ripe fruit complemented by bright acidity and supple, yet intense, structure.”

The Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in this blend are from our Twin Peaks estate vineyard, while the Cabernet Franc hails from acclaimed viticulturist David Abreu’s Madrona Ranch. The vineyards are farmed with meticulous attention to detail, maintaining yields at sparse levels—ranging from two to three tons per acre. The wine is composed of just a few of our best lots from these most cherished sites.

This was a blend of Bordeaux varietals - 50% Cabernet Franc, 25% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% Petit Verdot. 

The wine was aged in French oak barrels, 66% of which was new, for twenty-two months. Production was 1,142 cases.

Winemaker Notes - “Dark ruby colored, the 2018 High Fidelity displays a succulent assortment of complex and intriguing aromas and flavors. It starts with a fragrance of sage, steeped Oolong black tea, rhubarb, and melted black licorice notes. There’s a rush of red currants, fruitcake, cinnamon candies, and black truffle flavors across the palate.”

“The texture is fine and complete and essence of tobacco leaf, minerals, and salted caramel glide across the lush fresh finish.” – Christopher Tynan, Director of Winemaking

This was rated 94 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate and Jeb Dunnuck. 

The texture is fine and complete and essence of tobacco leaf, minerals, and salted caramel glide across the lush fresh finish. – Christopher Tynan, Director of Winemaking

Dark garnet-purple color, medium to full-bodied, complex but elegant and polished, blackberry, black currant and raspberry fruits, nuances of milk chocolate, cinnamon spice, hints of cedar and graphite pencil lead silky finely grained tannins on the smooth lingering finish., 

RM 94 points.