Vintage Branaire Ducru St Julien Bordeaux with grilled beefsteak

Vintage Branaire Ducru St Julien Bordeaux with grilled beefsteak

A delightful end of summer turning to autumn Sunday night, dinner on the deck, we grilled beef tenderloin beefsteaks with baked potatoes and grilled vegetable medley of tomato’s, onions, red pepper and zucchini. 

For an ideal wine accompaniment, I pulled from the cellar a Bordeaux Blend from St Julien. 

Château Branaire-Ducru St Julien Bordeaux 2004 

Our Visit and tour of the historic Château Branaire-Ducru estate was one of the highlights of our trip to the St Julien Appellation (AOC) in Bordeaux back in 2019, as featured in these pages. 

Patrick Maroteaux bought Branaire Ducru in 1988 from the Tapie family who owned Chateau Branaire Ducru since 1919. Prior to his arrival at Branaire Ducru, he had no prior experience in the wine business coming from a background in banking and as the president of the massive sugar company, Eurosucre. Patrick Maroteaux served as the President of the UGCB, Union of Grand Crus Bordeaux, and as the President of the Saint Julien appellation. 

We met Patrick’s son, François Xavier Maroteaux (below) several times at the UGCB Annual Release Tour Tastings in Chicago. He followed in his father’s footsteps and took over the full-time responsibilities of managing the property after his passing in 2017.

Scenes from visit and tour of the historic Château Branaire-Ducru estate. 

At twenty years of age, this was at its Goldilocks ideal age, not too young, not too old, perfect for pairing with our grilled beefsteaks. The label and capsule, and most importantly, the fill level and cork were in perfect condition from aging in our cellar’ ideal conditions. This is probably at the apex of its drinking profile and will not improve further with aging.

Perfect for pleasant sipping and ideally paired with the grilled beefsteak, this is a classic Left Bank Bordeaux blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc.

This release was awarded 91 points by Wine Enthusiast, 90+ points by NM, 90 by Wine Advocate and VM, and 88 points by Wine Spectator. This was considered a high achiever success from what was generally a modest vintage in the Medoc. 

Sitting literally across the road from Chateau Beychevelle, adjacent to super second growth Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, and near Gruaud Larose, Branaire is generally available for half the price of the premier labels, and a third less than the others, thereby offering good QPR - Quality Price Ratio’s for the Appellation. 

Winemaker Notes - “A very pure, fruity nose, still extremely young, with a lot of finesse. Woody hints perfectly well integrated into the fruit. Classic, dense, complex and pleasant on the palate. Delicate and gorgeous tannins with a long finish. Good balance.”

Dark ruby garnet colored, medium to full bodied, round, nicely balanced and modestly polished, ripe blackberry fruits with notes of black tea, tobacco and leather with hints of licorice, smoke and cedar on a smooth soft tannin laced lingering finish. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?1542304

 

Kansas City Beefsteak at George’s French Bistro Wine Bar Witchita

Kansas City Beefsteak at George’s French Bistro and Wine Bar Witchita 

We traveled to Kansas for an extended full weekend of activities including a wedding, visiting several Frank Lloyd Wright sites, and re-shooting an Arts and Crafts architectural site for a collaboration on an upcoming architecture book. 

We traveled to Witchita to visit the Frank Lloyd Wright Allen House, and other properties. While there we dined at George’s French Bistro and Wine Bar located in the College Hill neighborhood, not far from the historic architectural landmark sites. 

It is owned and operated by Chef George Youssef, formerly of Wichita’s Nouvelle Cafe and Uptown Bistro. Originally from Lebanon, Youssef got schooled in French cuisine in Quebec, Canada.

https://georgesfrenchbistro.com/

George’s looks and feels like a true Parisian bistro with its decorating and design, indoor and outdoor tables, crisp white table clothes, an open kitchen and gleaming brass-accented bar serving classically prepared bistro dishes served by waitstaff in traditional black vests and ties.

We were seated in the dining room and while we were dining, the bar and dining room started to fill up, and only when we departed, did we see they had opened the front doors to spill out to the patio.  

Normally we might opt for authentic French cuisine at such an establishment, but being in Kansas, we ordered the Kansas City filet of beefsteaks. They pronounce that “We proudly serve Creekstone Farms Premium Black Angus Beef. Our steaks are hand cut and cooked to your satisfaction. Creekstone Farms is famous throughout the world for their rich flavor.”

In French style, the steaks were accompanied by Parisian Potatoes (pomme Frits, fried potatoes), and haricot verts, (green beans). 

Each filet of beef was served with choice of sauces which included BURGUNDY DEMI GLACE - Red wine veal reduction, AU POIVRE - Brandy peppercorn, HOLLANDAISE - Butter, egg yolks, lemon juice, salt, cayenne pepper,  or L’ ENTRECÔTE  - Fresh thyme & thyme flowers, full cream, white anchovies, Dijon mustard, hazelnuts, butter, egg yolks, salt & pepper.

I went simple with the Demi Glace. Linda opted for both the Demi glacé and Au Poivre. Both were excellent.

Our steaks were superb, and the preparations were perfect! 

Readers of these pages know I prefer my beefsteak prepared “Pittsburgh” style … but rather than traditionally rare, I specify ‘hot pink center, Pittsburgh style, or charred slightly”. 

Tonight’s steak was perfect - an object lesson in ideal preparation to my liking! 

https://georgesfrenchbistro.com/

For a wine accompaniment pairing with our our dinner we ordered WBTG - Wines By The Glass, from the wine list. 

I ordered this Haut Lagarde, because a French Bordeaux Blend is my favorite pairing with beef. Moreover, I used to work with colleague Gary LaGarde, who had a distance ancestral relationship to the French wine producer of the same name. 

Les Hauts de LaGarde Bordeaux 2022

Winemaker: Maison Raymond

Appellation: A.O.C. Bordeaux

Location: Located in the Saint Laurent du Bois, Entre-Deux-Mers region, not far from the city of Bordeaux. The wines are sourced in the villages of Saint-Laurent-du-Bois, Saint-Martial, and Saint-Felix de Conclude

Dating back to  medieval times, the Raymond family have a long history of producing wine, dating back to 1850. The family property of the domaine du Château de Lagarde has been built up over the years by successive generations.

Varietal(s): 65 % Merlot, 25 % Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Cabernet Franc

Ageing: 10% of the wine was aged in oak.

Vineyard Terroir: With close proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, these vines are grown in a mild climate with lots of sunshine, regular rain, and clay-limestone soil, the vines and grapes are grown in the best conditions for Bordeaux varietals.

The wine was reviewed by Wine Enthusiast, Wine Spectator and Decanter. 

Published Tasting Notes: “A core of blackberry and black cherry preserves shows good energy as the flavors move through an anise- and sweet tobacco–tinged finish. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.

Attractive structured tannins and red fruits give this wine a good start in life. With the acidity, the dusty structure and the perfumed aftertaste, the wine will develop well. Wine Enthusiast

"Good fruit, raspberry and strawberry summery flavors from winemaker Lionel Raymond. A touch short but full of character, from a blend of 65% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc. Only indigenous yeasts used at this organic estate – the family has a full 180 hectares certified in the Entre Deux Mers region, with new cellars that are powered by 2,500m2 of solar panels.Decanter Magazine

Translucent ruby red hue with cool aromatics, green herbal notes, cedar, cypress, and red currant. Palate reveals ripe red fruit, red plums, raspberries, ripe blueberries, along with cigar box spice, pencil shavings, and a strong cypress note on the finish.

Beautiful crimson robe with intense purple reflections. This wine reveals great aromas of fresh fruits and spices. The fruitiness, roundness and tannic mouth give it a rare elegance.

The fruitiness, roundness and tannic mouth gives it a rare elegance. Ideal with pork roasts and your favorite cheese. A harmonious wine. This wine reveals great aromas of blackcurrant, blackberries and spices. Beautiful crimson robe with intense purple reflections. Enjoy with red meat, poultry, pasta dishes and your favorite cheese.

Varietal(s): 65% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc

Winemaker notes - “A core of blackberry and black cherry preserves shows good energy as the flavors move through an anise- and sweet tobacco–tinged finish. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Made with Organically Grown Grapes”

In 2000, Lionel Raymond purchased the Château Joumes Fillon organic vineyard. Because of Lionel’s strong beliefs in and respect for the environment and terroir, he decided to convert the whole vineyard (130 hectares) to organic agriculture. Most winemakers in the area thought he was crazy as it is twice the work of a conventional vineyard. Today, they are one of the largest organic wineries in Bordeaux, and part of the exclusive 7% of all wineries of the region who have made the organic commitment.

The Vineyards - The different properties of the domaine benefit from specific conditions: special orientation of the vineyards, composition of the soil, humidity, age of the vines…These conditions are refined during the winemaking allowing them to offer a large range of products. Over 20 people work in the vineyard and the cellars, and consistently looking for innovative techniques in terms of production, vintification with respect for the vines, soil and environment.

Vignobles Raymond produces classic varietals and Bordeaux blends: Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Another label, Le Petit du Château de Lagarde is 100% Merlot. 

This provided great QPR and was a wonderful pairing with the dinner. It was carefully selected for the winelist. 

Garnet colored, medium to full bodied, pleasant easy drinking, round flavorful complex black berry and black currant fruits with notes of black tea, tobacco, anise and spice. 

RM 88 points. 

For Linda, and her pairing with the filet of beef, we selected a Southern Rhône River Valley “GSM” (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre) Red Blend. 

Cellier Des Dauphines Reserve Côtes du Rhône Grenache Syrah 2021

Another carefully selected, high QPR, pleasant easy drinking wine. 

This is produced by the Cellier des Dauphins, a collective, group of winegrowers called “Union des Vignerons des Côtes du Rhône” which is a collaboration since 1967 of 2000 winegrower families of the southern Rhone Valley. With 12 000 hectares of vines, and around twenty appellations, Cellier des Dauphins has become the leading wine producer in the Rhone Valley in less than 50 years.

Cellier des Dauphins has become one of France’s benchmark Rhône brands. Cellier des Dauphins is now the first producer of Organic wines in the Rhône Valley founded to serve a devotion to the protection the environment. 

This is a blend of Rhône varietals - 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah.

Winemaker Notes - “This wine displays a deep red hue with ruby tints and notes of sun-ripened black fruit on the nose. The palate offers a velvety texture and spicy notes underpinned by ripe black fruit, blackcurrants and black cherries. A more modern take on the traditional Côtes du Rhône style, this wine combines structure, freshness and smooth tannins. It has a seductively elegant, intense and long-lingering finish.”

Dark ruby/garnet colored, light medium bodied, tightly wound, structured complex black fruits with notes of black tea, spice, hints of black pepper and lavender notes on a pronounced lingering tannin laced acidic finish. 

RM 87 points.  

Fine dining at 360 Grille Florence Alabama

Fine dining at 360 Grille Florence, Alabama 

We traveled to Florence, Alabama to tour the Rosenbaum House, designed by iconic American architect, Frank Lloyd Wright, a Usonian style house, the only Wright building in Alabama, considered "the purest example of the Usonian” concept.  

(Read more about my work as a Docent/Interpreter and Researcher for the Frank Lloyd Wright Trust on my Wright-site at http://www.mcnees.org/flw/).

We arrived the night before and dined at 360 Grille at the Marriott Shoals Hotel, Spa and Conference Center. 

360 Grille is a circular revolving restaurant atop a 300 foot 27 story tower overlooking the lock and dam on the scenic Tennessee River, the entire community of Florence, (Alabama), and the town of Muscle Shoals across the river, as it revolves slowly. It is Alabama's only revolving restaurant. It offers a unique and distinctive fine dining experience with ‘American chef’s creations’ and a Wine Spectator award winning wine list. 

In the end, while a technological and engineering marvel, with a 360 degree vista of the region, aside the river view, there is no skyline or cityscape to offer any sense of view - it might as well be in the middle of a forest as most of the scene is treetops in almost all directions other than the river. Of course, we are immensely spoiled being accustomed to one of the most spectacular cityscapes and skylines on the planet in Chicago! Alas, many Chicago restaurants offer memorable, world class views - too many to mention here.

As is customary, I spent much time researching and planning all the details of our trip and travel including evaluating dining options based on site and location, and primarily food and wine offerings based on published menu’s and wine lists ahead of time, as part of selecting a dining venue in the region.

360 Grille published their menu and wine list on-line which offers the chance to plan such an event. The menu was essentially up to date and accurately reflected what was on offer. The wine list however, was a bit chaotic with multiple listings for several wines including several conflicting or duplicate labels, and the typical challenge of out of date vintages and prices. 

The (historical) Wine Spectator Award Winning winelist, published on-line, shows about 75 Red Wines, 45 White Wines and Seven dessert or after dinner wines. As shown, they are arranged in a very haphazard confusing manner, and priced ranging from $30 to $375, with price points ranging from slightly over one times retail to five times retail prices. 

As I expected, the actual wines on offer bore only slight resemblance to what was published on-line. Interestingly, case in point is a wine we know extremely well, having visited the Chateau and estate in France, and holding a not-insignificant collection of the producer’s labels in our home cellar. 

Looking to support one of our favorite producers, ordering a wine we know well, we had hoped to possibly order Château Vieux Télégraphe, Châteauneuf Du Pape. I was prepared to be disappointed, though, when they also published on-line Château Vieux Télégraphe ‘Télégramme’, Châteauneuf Du Pape. Télégramme is the ‘second’ label and wine from this producer, which sells for half the price of the grand vin, but both were posted at the same price.

Ironically, this was a replay of a similar situation we encountered last year where the wine on offer was the grand vin, while the wine served was the second label. In this case, the actual wine list corrected the duplication error, offering only the second label, however at an even higher price point than the grand vin published on-line. I wrote about this similar experience in this blogpost in these pages - The James Geneva features wine friendly menu and fine wines.

The result, tonight, was a wine sold at five times the retail price, versus two times the retail price as advertised! 

There were several other errors and anomalies between the published list and actual current list in the restaurant. I wasn’t surprised and expected as much having seen this many times before, but not to this level of breadth, depth and magnitude. 

Being from Chicago, we’re used to sophisticated, upscale fine dining experiences, which we perhaps take for granted. The disparities become apparent when you visit arguably the top establishment in a small remote third tier town like Florence. The folks at 360 Grille exuded an abundance of warm friendly southern hospitality, and the venue a spectacular site experience, still, the vibe was as much akin a diner or coffee shop as it was an upscale elegant restaurant.     

For our dinner, we ordered as a starter the Baked Brie, and for entrees, I ordered the filet of beef while Linda selected the fresh seafood special selection, grilled Wahu. 

Diners were treated to an Amouse Buche of crabmeat on a small bread crust. 

For a starter, Linda ordered the Oven Baked Brie with Toasted Pecans and Apricot Jam. This is a dish we know well from several restaurant experiences, and which she personally prepares often, based on some of our favorite preparations and presentations. I wrote about her baked Brie, and some of the inspirations for it in this blogpost -  Baked Brie Tranche Slice of Pape Blanc Columbia Valley White Blend. Tonight’s presentation while imaginative and nicely done was a bit uninspiring with a somewhat simple preparation of cheese with the fruit topping. They might take note from this blogpost. 

I ordered the filet of beef, which came with my choice of two sides, spinach and truffle mashed potatoes. This offering is priced at $34 for lunch, and $52 for dinner. 

The second infraction, or disappointment of the evening, involved preparation of my filet of beef. Regular readers of these pages know I often order filet of beef with a ‘Pittsburg’ style preparation. Fully expecting the waitstaff to not know to what I was referring, I didn’t mention Pittsburg, but rather, described how I wished my steak to be prepared. I stated, slowly and distinctly, “hot pink center, and if possible, and if it doesn’t present any trouble, light charring, so long as it doesn’t result in over-cooking the beef.”  

When my entree arrived, the presentation was nice and well laid out, but it tasted smoked with a strong smoky flavor, (that unfortunately I hate to say, resembled a sense of lighter fluid). Linda, a competent and experienced cook, attributed it to ‘liquid smoke’, a cooking aide, which apparently was applied in the quest to provide the essence of charring. Needless to say, charring and smoking are very different methods of preparation, with very different taste effects and outcomes. 

In the end, Linda loved her seafood chef’s special entree which had an ample portions such that we traded mid-meal and I was able to enjoy the remains of her entree, and she found my filet less off-putting than I did. 

I was prepared and expecting to take the high road, be polite and restrained, yet mention the winelist, and perhaps also the condition of my steak preparation, to anyone in the restaurant that might be interested in feedback and willing to listen. Alas, the assistant manager happened to come by the table and asked about our dining experience, so, I offered to provide some candid and unvarnished feedback. He was a slight bit overwhelmed in the breadth and depth of my research, and expectations relative to the outcomes. In the end, he took it exceedingly well, sincerely and genuinely interested in our candid feedback and evaluation of their standards of offering and service. 

The bright spot of the evening was the Chef's Fresh Seafood Special, Grilled Wahu, served with Creamy Polenta, Spiced Pear Chutney, Frisee, Citrus Vinaigrette and Crispy Beet. This was wonderful, and delicious, although perhaps slightly overcooked so as to be a bit dry. 

With her entree we ordered a Chardonnay B-T-G, by the glass, from the available options. 

With my entree I ordered one of the reds that was available at a slightly more reasonable value - two and a half times the retail price, which I consider a bit high (especially for a place like Florence, Alabama), but acceptable and somewhat ‘customary’ for upscale fine dining establishments. 

Gary Farrell Sonoma Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2021

I selected this as a cross-over wine, one that could go with both Linda’s grilled seafood and my steak dinner. 

Like the Vieux Telegraphe above, we know this producer well and had visited the Gary Farrell estate and winery in the Russian River Valley in Sonoma County, during or Napa / Sonoma Wine Experience in 2017.  I wrote about this producer and our visit there in this earlier blogpost.

Farrell produces and is most noted for a wide portfolio of single vineyard designated Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays from Sonoma County and the Russian River Valley. 

This is their standard bottling blended from numerous vineyard sources. 

This Russian River Selection bottling is a classic Russian River Valley profile, sourced and blended from several of the region’s top vineyards, taking advantage of varied climates and unique site characteristics. 

From the Producer - Tasting Notes - “This gorgeous Pinot Noir opens with seductive aromas of cherry liquor, sweet tobacco, fresh fennel, rose petal and boysenberry preserves. The broad, youthful, tangy, yet complex palate offers juicy flavors of blood orange, sour cherry jam, tamarind, raspberry jerk sauce, with a hint of savory green plantains. The firm tannins and tangy acidity create a full-bodied texture, lending to the incredibly long, spicy finish.” 

Vineyard Notes - “Our Russian River Selection bottlings are quintessential Russian River Valley wines blended from some of the region’s top vineyards, taking advantage of varied climates and unique site characteristics. The Rochioli and Bacigalupi vineyards are located in the Middle Reach subdivision, where close proximity to the river awards foggy mornings, warm and sunny days, and cool nights – the perfect balance that characterizes the Russian River Valley. The Martaella vineyard is located in the Santa Rosa Plain, a distinctly cooler and foggier sub-region, while the Hallberg and McDonald Mountain Vineyards, located within the Green Valley and Sebastopol Hills neighborhoods, exhibits even more extreme cool climate conditions. A beautiful expression of the varietal and of the appellation’s unique terroir, this Pinot Noir blend captures the richness, purity and elegance that are Gary Farrell Winery’s trademarks.”

This was rated 93 points by Wine Enthusiast and 91 points by Jeb Dunnuck. 

Ruby colored medium bodied, dusty rose floral perfume tones with black cherry fruits with notes of what Jeb Dunnuck calls ‘cherry cola’, and the winemaker cites ‘savory, sweet tobacco’ with tangy, nicely balanced acidity and fine grained tannins on a lingering finish. 

RM 90 points.    

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?2609748

https://www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/mslmc-marriott-shoals-hotel-and-spa/overview/

https://www.360grille.net/our-menus

Steak Night, Fresh Catch and Wine Specials at Wine Bar Destin

Steak Night, Fresh Catch and Wine Specials at Wine Bar Destin

The Wine Bar - Destin 

Visiting our favorite getaway, Destiny Cove vacation rental in Destin Florida, we dined at The Wine Bar restaurant in Destin. 

We first discovered the Wine Bar in the Sandestin Grand Boulevard shopping center. It's adjacent to and affiliated with the Wine World wine shop that has an amazing and impressive selection of 100 point and first growth producer wines. We then learned they have four locations including this one, the Wine Bar in Destin nearby.

The Wine Bar Destin location is located at the Shoppes of Paradise Key (on Commons Drive across from the Destin Commons Center). In addition to the restaurant, they have the adjacent wine shop that also includes a cheese shop - a trifecta, all in the one location, just up the street from our neighborhood!  

The dining room offers casual fine dining in a rustic and quaint setting, intimate and slightly dark, with an adjacent bar and a private wine room for special dinners and private groups.

The Wine Bar restaurant offers a core selection soups, salads and small plates, with chicken, steaks and fresh seafood. They tout an award winning wine list, and and extensive selection of artisan cheeses! 

The wine list offers a broad selection of WBTG - Wines By The Glass; five Sparkling Wines, three Rose's, nine "Fresh and Bright Whites", and nine "Round Rich and Ripe White Wines". For red wine selections they offer seven :Soft and Fruity Reds", twelve "Big and Bold Reds:. 

And, for 'Happy Hour', from 11:00 AM to 7:00 PM daily, they offer a 12 oz. carafe of WBTG selections for the price of a large glass, 8 oz.  They also offer a wine flight of Luxury Whites and one of Luxury Reds.

We ordered from the wine list a carafe specials the premium Brunello Montalcino of which they were out, so, we opted for a Barolo, a Napa Valley Red Blend, and a Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay.

As starters we ordered the cesar salad and the Beet Caprese Salad - heirloom tomatoes, roasted red beets, extra virgin olive oil, fresh basil, balsamic glaze (shown below).

For entrees, Linda ordered the Manchego Crusted Grouper, the Daily Fresh Catch Special with carolina gold rice, field peas, wild mushrooms, lardons, jalapeno and citrus beurre blanc.

Saturday night is Steak Special night so I ordered the Saturday Night Filet of Beef special, prepared Pittsburgh style, charred on the outside, medium hot pink center on the inside.

With the steak we ordered two carafe special red wines, a Red Blend and a Barolo, our second choice since the published Brunello di Montalcino was not available.

Aril Sonoma County Kick Ranch Red Blend 2017

This is from Aril Wines, founded in 2008 by Harmon and Joanne Brown to produce a small amount of premium, hand-crafted wines based on their Pritchard Hill Estate Vineyard in Napa Valley. They retained renowned winemaker and viticulturist Ehren Jordan (Failla/Turley) as winemaker and vineyard consultant in 2014. He employed a simple philosophy of procuring optimal grapes and respecting them in the winery applying a minimalist approach to showcase place, balance, and elegance.

In 2018, the Jay family purchased the brand to continue the legacy and production. 

Aril produce four labels of Bordeaux varietals including this unique blend which includes Rhone varietal Syrah, all sourced from the Kick Ranch Vineyard that sits high atop Spring Mountain which separates Napa Valley to the east and Sonoma Valley to the west. 

Sitting on the western facing slope of the mountain in what is known as the Fountaingrove District in Sonoma County, it has vistas all they way to the Petaluma Gap to the west, which provides cool nights and foggy mornings. The producer site describes the vineyard rows planted to capture maximum sun exposure.

The Fountaingrove District is a sleeper of an appellation within Sonoma County, the 17th AVA, latest and most recent to receive American Viticultural Area (AVA) status in March 2015. 

The District takes its name from an historic area of northeastern Santa Rosa, the Fountaingrove District that was inspired by the legacy of California's original "cult winery." Of the 38,000-acres in the appellation 500 acres are planted to vineyards from five wine producers.

 

The Fountaingrove District sits in the middle of the Mayacamas Mountain range that separates Napa Valley to the east from Sonoma Valley to the west. It is bounded to the north by Sonoma County's Knights Valley AVA, Sonoma Valley to the south, Chalk Hill to the northwest, and Russian River Valley to the west.

This label is a unique blend of Syrah, Cabernet and Petit Verdot. It was aged in 33% new French Oak barrels for eighteen months. This was the six vintage release of this label. Only 275 cases were produced.

This was dark ruby colored, medium full bodied, concentrated full round red and black fruits with notes of dusty rose, leather and spice with hints of anise.

https://www.cellartracker.com/m/wines/4847352

https://www.arilwines.com/


Azienda Agricola Icollirossi Barolo Monforte d'Alba Nebbiolo 2018

Icollirossi Barolo is a DOCG designated wine from the Piedmont region in Northern Italy.

One of the world's great red wines, Barolo is also one of the most distinctive, primarily due to the DOCG rules regulating the grape, how it is produced and the unique terroir of the region in which it grows. Wines from the Barolo DOCG must be 100% Nebbiolo. Barolo wines are noted for their ability to age and need to be aged for at least 38 months after the harvest before release, of which at least 18 months must be in wood.

Located in North West Italy, the Piedmont Wine Region has the largest area in terms of DOC and DOCG wines. Meaning “foot of the mountain,” due to its proximity to the Alps, Piedmont wines including Barolo, Barberesco, Gattinara, Ghemme and Gavi all benefit from the slopes and terrain characteristic of the region. 

Barolo production codes stipulate that vineyards must be located on hillsides, however a recent revision of the production code released in 2010 goes further to specifically exclude valley floors, humid and flat areas, areas without sufficient sunlight, and areas with full-on northern exposures.

Nebbiolo is the dominant grape variety for reds and produces wines with tannic and acidic qualities that can also have fairly high alcohol content. This distinctive combination profile makes distinguished and cellar-worthy wines of Barolo and Barberesco some of the most sought-after. 

This Barolo is from the commune of Monforte d'Alba, one of several  DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) communes in the northern Italian region of Piedmont.

Winemaker notes - "Bold and complex, I Colli Rossi Cru Monforte Barolo 2018 delivers rich flavors of dark fruits, spices, and earthiness. Powerful tannins and a long finish. Pair with lamb, beef, and game."

Bright Ruby colored, medium full bodied, layered flavors of blackberry and cherry with notes of earth, anise, tobacco and hints of cedar and clove spice with polished tannins on an expressive lingering finish.

RM 89

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4381237

Mer Soleil Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay 2022

This is an entry level label from the legendary Wagner Family wine portfolio, most known for their flagship Caymus brand. Mer Soleil is led by second generation Owner and Winemaker Charlie Wagner. It is sourced from vineyards in the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA near the coast in Monterey County.

This wine is named for the sea and sun in recognition of the distinctive place where it is sourced. The Santa Lucia Highlands, 40 minutes south from Monterey in North Central coastal California are known for morning fog, bright sunshine and gusting winds and an extended growing season. Grapes stay on the vine longer, leading to the development of intense aromas and flavors. 

Producer's notes - "A lively flaxen gold, this wine features a harmonious nose that previews the playful balance to come on the palate. Scents of brown spice, toasted almonds, custard and light oak mingle with Meyer lemon zest, honeysuckle and a hint of apricot. Entry is round, as this wine's fruit and natural acidity build on each other, with echoes of brown spice, citrus and apricot enveloped in a creamy texture. A vibrant finish of lemon/lime showcases the distinctly bright acidity produced from the Monterey coast, leaving an enticing freshness that prepares the palate for another sip."

Aromas of baked croissant, apricot, lemon/lime and honeysuckle. Round and creamy on the palate with notes of lemon squares and fresh natural acidity. Creamy yet fresh, the wine is balanced by lively acidity and bright citrus.

A widely distributed, moderately priced, easy drinking Chardonnay.

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4851990

https://www.thewinebarfl.com/the-wine-bar-destin

California 2013 Duo BYOB at Vistro Hinsdale

California 2013 Duo BYOB at Vistro Prime Hinsdale

Dear friends Mark and Gayle returned to Chicago for a short visit and we met up for dinner at Vistro Prime Steakhouse in nearby suburban Hinsdale, (IL).  We've been wanting to try Vistro, sister restaurant to Vie in nearby Western Springs. I was attracted to the Dover Sole a la meunière entree selection, one of my favorite dishes, so I took BYOB from our cellar a hearty rich Chardonnay for a wine pairing. 

Vistro Prime is the sister restaurant to Vie in adjacent Western Springs which we have been to many times, including for our  Gala Anniversary Prix Fixe Dinner with Wine Pairing, just the month before last. Vie was the initial restaurant of Chef Paul Virant, where he focuses on seasonal Midwestern selections featuring local sourcing utilizing traditional methods of preservation. He was a finalist nominee for the James Beard Foundation Award's Best Chef: Great Lakes in 2015, 2014, 2013 and 2011. He authored the 2012 cookbook, The Preservation Kitchen: The Craft of Making and Cooking with Pickles, Preserves, and Aigre-Doux.

Vistro Prime is primarily a steak house with aged prime steaks. It boasts several seafood dishes, including the Dover Sole a la meunière that attracted me. There is a selection of a dozen starter dishes, three salads, which were very hearty, and a broad selection of a dozen sides, each of which we ordered were also delicious. 

We like the ambiance with its openness, comfortable seating, bright and airy white walls and tablecloths. There is an adjacent bar in the front of the dining room while the rear has a row of tables with booths along both walls. 

Dover Sole a la meunière

Being a steakhouse, I also took this Beau Vigne Proprietary Red that we also took BYOB to Herrington Inn Atwaters Restaurant Geneva last weekend, for those choosing steak, and in the event I did so as well. I took this Proprietary Red Blend since it was so tasty then, but was projecting that may be at its prime at going on ten years and thus time to drink. I also brought a hearty full bodied Sonoma Chardonnay, also from the 2013 vintage.  

The Vistro winelist is largely American, pretty basic and straight-forward. They have a Reserve List that is limited but well selected with several favorites that we love. The prices on the primary list are customary but the prices on the Reserve tend towards being expensive, from 2x to as much as 3x retail price for all three of the bottles I almost brought, as it listed three wines that we hold in our cellar that I considered bringing. The core list covered all the wine groups to pair with every menu selection - sparkling, red, white, aperitif and after-dinner selections, while the Reserve listed one sparkling, three Chardonnays and a dozen reds split between Bordeaux varietals and Pinot's.

With the salad course, my Dover Sole and Linda's salmon we enjoyed this hearty Chardonnay that I brought from our cellar. I featured this wine in an earlier blogpost in these pages - Nickel & Nickel Stiling Vineyard RRV Sonoma Chardonnay

Nickel & Nickel Stiling Vineyard Russian River Valley Sonoma Chardonnay 2013

Nickel & Nickel is one of the brands of legendary Napa Valley producer Far Niente. They produce over two dozen single varietal, single vineyard designated wines, sourced from ten different Napa Valley and Sonoma Valley appellations. 

They specialize in Cabernet Sauvignons and Chardonnays but also produce Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Merlot varietal labels as well. 

We hold a dozen different labels from this producer going back more than two decades, all Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay varietals. This bottle is the last of a half case of this label we acquired back near release. It has been one of our favorite drinking Chardonnays for such occasions and at going on a decade is nearing the end of its prime drinking window and time to drink.

This was a perfect complement to our entrees and precourses and was enjoyed by all. I've often written in these pages about how the perfect pairing of food and wine is a force multiplier, amplifying the enjoyment of both.  

As I have written in these pages, we toured the Russian River Valley during our Napa Sonoma Wine Experience 2017.. We stayed on the coast in Bodega Bay and traveled the back roads between there and Santa Rosa to witness and experience the climate and topology that comprises the notable terrior of the area.

This is from the Green Valley AVA in Russian River Valley where, the grapes benefit from a cooling coastal influence that helps them ripen slowly and develop complexity.

From the Green Valley AVA site: "Green Valley is one of the smallest appellations in Sonoma County. It lies in the southwestern part of the Russian River Valley, bounded by the towns of Sebastopol, Forestville and Occidental. It is very tightly delineated, both geographically and climatically, and is the most consistent and distinctive of any North Coast appellation in terms of soil, climate and flavor. The fog is Green Valley’s trademark."

The 2013 vintage was a fantastic growing season in the Russian River, with dry, moderate temperatures and cool foggy mornings

From the winery: "The 2013 Nickel & Nickel Stiling Vineyard Chardonnay is consistent from year to year. Passion fruit and floral aromas offer a mere hint of what’s on the palate: flavors of Muscat and Meyer lemon enhanced by flint and stone. A pleasant oiliness adds suppleness to the mouthfeel, but the vibrant acidity cleanses the palate and adds a succulent quality that makes one eager for another sip."

This was golden butter colored, full bodied, very forward, with some firmness and intense buttery and oaky tones and structure that amplifies the fruits - passion fruit, melon, floral, lemon, flint and stone.

Linda and Gayle liked this a lot with its classic full bodied, rich dense California Chardonnay style, and like an earlier tasting, I found it a slight bit much with delicate sole a la meunière, it was delicious none-the-less.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2028407

https://nickelandnickel.com/wines-vineyards/single-vineyard-wines/2013-stiling-vineyard-chardonnay/

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2021/06/napa-reds-and-white-burgundy-for-surf.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/03/nickle-nickle-chardonnay-for-chinns.html

https://nickelandnickel.farniente.com/

https://twitter.com/NickelandNickel

@NickelandNickel 

Nickel & Nickel Stiling Vineyard Russian River Valley Sonoma Chardonnay 

Gayle and Mark both ordered filets of beef which was ideally paired with this aged Napa Bordeaux Red Blend.

As I wrote earlier about this wine.

Beau Vigne Reserve Proprietary Red Napa Valley 2013

Beau Vigne, (pronounced bo-veenya), translated from French means beautiful vineyard, is the same wine I received just last week from the producer and I was eager to share it as a perfect accompaniment to our diverse dinner. 

I wrote about this wine and producer in detail the other day upon receipt of this wine. This producer first caught my attention when buddy Bob brought it to our Pour Boys OTBN - "Open-That-Bottle-Night" 2022 in Charleston and I pegged it as WOTN - Wine of the Night, my personal favorite.

Beau Vigne Reserve Proprietary Red Napa Valley 2013

This 2013 is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Cabernet Franc. The producer cited it amongst the best wines Beau Vigne had made to date. That says a lot since Robert Parker awarded the 2013 Beau Vigne "Cult" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 96 points in Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. He also awarded the Beau Vigne Reserve Cabernet from this vintage a stellar perfect 100 points.

Parker wrote about that wine: "Profound, with a stunning aromatic display of blue and black fruits, charcoal, graphite, and spring flowers. The wine has a flawless entry and mouthfeel, with a full-bodied density, opulence and an incredible finish of close to a minute."

He also awarded the 2013 Beau Vigne "Cult" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 96 points in Robert Parker's Wine Advocate . That wine too contains the same Cabernet Sauvignon as in this blend. That blend contained 98:2% while this one is 70:30. Parker wrote of that wine: "Similarly styled is the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Cult, which is 98% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc. The biggest cuvée of any of these wines, the color is blackish/purple as a moonless night. It offers fabulous fruit and incredible density and richness, with lots of camphor, blackberry and cassis fruit, hints of espresso bean and chocolate as well as some background oak. This is a big, full-throttle, savory style of wine that should age effortlessly for 20-25+ years (RP)."

As a blend of the same fruit as those wines, it has a similar profile. Dark blackish purple colored, full bodied, dense, rich concentrated black fruits accented by a layer of camphor that initially may be a bit unnerving to some, with notes of cassis, expresso and dark bitter mocha with some graphite and oak on the full lingering finish. 

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2010086

www.beauvigne.com

https://vistroprime.com/

https://twitter.com/vistroprime
@vistroprime 

Livia casual dining in Geneva

Livia casual al fresco dining in Geneva

On a beautiful autumn afternoon we drove out to Geneva (IL) on the Fox River for a casual lunch. 

Taking advantage of the waning days of summer turning to autumn we dined al fresco on the garden terrace outside Livia Italian Restaurant on Third Street amongst all the trendy shops and restaurants. 

The Italian Eatery features Northern Italian cuisine with a broad menu selection of small plates, pastas, fresh greens, seafood, and beef, chicken, pork chops, Lamb Chops, and some House Specialty entrées. 

The wine list is a basic selection of regional Italian and American wines. 

There is a WBTG list (wines by the glass) that offers ten reds and ten whites as well as several sparklings and Rose's from Italy and one from France.

Linda ordered, the petit filet with romano crusted tomato, whipped potatoes and asparagus. 

I was content with a glass of red wine accompaniment with fresh toasted bread, olive oil with parmesan cheese. 

Linda imaginatively and creatively combined the fresh bread and her entree to create some delicious mini beef 'sliders' that we shared. 

I ordered WBTG selection Casaloste Chianti Classico.

Casaloste Chianti Classico 2018

Fattoria Casaloste is a wine estate situated in the Chianti hills in Panzano in Chianti, in the municipality of Greve, sitting in the hillsides of the Chianti Classico region, halfway between Florence and Siena. 

Calaloste is run by owner Giovanni Battista d'Orsi, an agronomist and enologist who oversees all wine viticulture and wine making, and his wife Emilia. The wine bears the name of the stone tower where the owners live with their family. The name "Casaloste" has ancient origins dating to the past when the building was used as a sighting tower. The farm also welcomes guests in two comfortable Tuscan apartments.

Fattoria Casaloste covers 45 acres of which 24 are planted to Chianti Classico D.O.C.G vineyards and 5 acres are D.O.P. olive trees . They produce about 60,000 bottles of wine per year. 

Chianti Classico Casaloste was first produced with the 1993 vintage and is produced from estate sourced Sangiovese accented by a small amount of Merlot. The prevailing grape Sangiovese covers 85% of the vines; the other 15% is represented by Merlot and some other grapes.

Casaloste adhere to three principles in producing their wines: low quantity production per acre, rigorous supervision to the quality of grapes during both growing and harvest, and continuous monitoring of fermentation, wine-making, and maturing methods.

Casaloste is a member of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico (Gallo Nero) association and thereby observes the regulations to sell its wine abroad under the DOCG and IGT designations. 

This Chianti Classico  is the traditional Sangiovese varietal based wine, a blend of Sangiovese accented with 10% Merlot. It is aged in oak casks of Allier, and barriques for about 12 months.

Ruby red in color, medium bodied, fresh red currant fruits accented by hints of strawberries and cherries with notes of violet, leather, spices, tobacco and hints of mocha supported by the typical tangy acidity of Sangiovese with long elegant tannins.

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3796277

https://www.casaloste.com/en/

https://www.liviaitalianeatery.com/