Blue Eye’d Boy McLaren Vale Shiraz 2020

Blue Eye’d Boy McLaren Vale Shiraz 2020 

Linda picked up a selection of artisan cheeses and asked for one of ‘her’ wines for pairing. ‘Her’ wines refers to her preferred, favored style; big, bold, concentrated, rich, structured forward fruit filled - ala a McLaren Vale Aussie, Northern Rhone or Santa Barbara Santa Ynez Valley Shiraz, or an occasional Washington Columbia Valley or Sonoma/Napa label. 

So, I pulled from the cellar one of our favorite go-to labels, that happens to the ‘signature’ wine of our son, Alec - “Blue Eye’d Boy” from Mollydooker. 

This is one of our favorite such labels that we enjoy with hearty meals like BBQ, or robust cheeses such as tonight. 

This is one of several labels from this prolific producer that we collect. Producer Mollydooker offer a brand and portfolio of whimsical labels, each featuring a cartoonish character on the label. Even the brand name, Mollydooker, which is Australian lingo for a left-handed person, is a comical play on words, named for the two left handed owner/producers/founders Sarah and Sparky Marquis.  I chronicled Mollydooker brand and portfolio in a recent blogpost. 

Mollydooker is in scenic McLaren Vale, 30 minutes easy drive from Adelaide. Bordered by the Adelaide Hills and five minutes away from glorious beaches.

I developed a special affinity for this wine in recent years. I managed a portfolio of software products used globally, My Australian representative was based in Adelaide who I got to know well over the years and I learned a great deal about life in the region. He was a racing car enthusiast and was a racing buddy of Sparky Marquis, so named for his enthusiasm for race cars, namesake to Marquis-Philips, the predecessor brand to Mollydooker.  He surrendered his stake in the wine business when he separated from Sara. 

The Mollydooker vineyards are situated on the magical Seaview Ridge, which with its ancient soils and Mediterranean climate, is home to some of the most iconic Australian wines. Mollydooker have three separate vineyards – Long Gully Road, Coppermine Road and the Home Blocks, giving us a total of 114 acres of Shiraz, Cabernet and Merlot. 

As I wrote in that earlier blogpost, the Mollydooker "Family Series" labels features photos of Sara Marquis' two children. The 'Blue Eyed Boy' label shows Sarah’s son Luke, shown stomping grapes as a kid, who now heads up the Mollydooker Sales Team.

We love this full-throttle shiraz and collect it as part of our Mollydooker portfolio and as part of our Alec collection of labels we keep on hand to toast son Alec. We served an earlier vintage release of this wine at a graduation celebration for Alec back in his college apartment.

Some Cellartrackers talked about using the Mollydooker Shake on this wine. No wonder the producer introduced the Mollydooker 'shake' where they actually prescribe shaking the bottle before opening to awaken or to settle the fruit! We own and drink a lot of their wine and I have never gotten into the habit of doing so but perhaps we should!

Reading up on the Mollydooker Shake, it is prescribed only for still red wines of two years of age or less. It is to release the nitrogen in the bottle that they use instead of the normal sulphites commonly used to preserve wines.  Sulphites can cause an allergic asthma type reaction in some people and Mollydooker realise a lot of people are sensitive to them. So, wherever they can, they use nitrogen to protect the wine so that they can reduce the amount of sulphites.

Mollydooker Blue Eye’d Boy McLaren Vale Shiraz 2020

We've written often in these pages about the fun we have with this label and the rest of the Mollydooker portfolio of wines. Here is a selection of several previous posts on the subject:

September 10, 2022 - Blue Eye'd Boy & Brunier Racines for BBQ Rib Dinner 

March 11, 2022 - Blue Eye'd Boy and CDP for Italian Beef Dinner

May 5, 2012 - Graduation celebration wine tasting flight

February 7, 2014 - Mollydooker 'Carnival of Love' Shiraz 2011

July 4, 2023 - Lede To Kalon and Greywacke showcase 4th of July Celebration

February 3, 2022 - Mollydooker "Scooter" Merlot

We hold more than a half dozen vintages of this label and this is the one of the newest, latest release which we're trying here for the first time. 

This release was sourced from Vineyards across McLaren Vale, Coppermine Road, Gateway, Long Gully Road & Mollydooker Home estate, and the Joppich Vineyard in Langhorne Creek.

Winemaker notes for this release - “The 2020 Blue Eyed Boy is rich, ripe and explosive, this Shiraz displays vibrant blueberry, plum and notes of dark chocolate. A voluptuous palate of blue and black fruit layered with coffee, vanilla cream and liquorice spice. A beautiful balanced wine that has a round and creamy finish, the Blue Eyed Boy exceeds all expectations.”

Winemaker production notes - “We aim to make 80,000 dozen cases of wine each vintage. The tank farm, barrel hall and crushing area are our cellar team's pride and joy. We've got a 1500 tonne crushing capacity, but we only crush just over 1200 tonnes so that the team has plenty of time to mollycoddle the wines, and to keep the winery spick and span.”

It was barrel fermented and matured and aged in 100% American oak, 54% new; 46% 1yr old.

Marquis Fruit Weight - Required: 75% - 85%, Actual: 79%
Marquis Fruit Weight™ is the percentage of your palate (from the tip of your tongue going all the way back) that's covered by the velvety sensation of fruit, before you
experience any of the structural components of the wine.

This 2020 release was rated 93 points by Wine Spectator and Robert Parker's Wine Advocate.

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate wrote - “This 2020 Blue Eyed Boy Shiraz is a fascinating wine to me, in that it offers everything that I might find challenging in one glass (high alcohol at 16%, prominent American oak and volumes of generous, abundantly concentrated, extracted fruit), yet it does so in such a way that I end up appreciating the construction and the execution despite my stylistic preferences.”

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate wrote an interesting observation about this label, comparing the 2020 and 2021 vintages; "Once you taste a few of a producer's wines side by side, you really start to get a feel for stylistic preference between warm vintages and cool ones. I surprise myself by saying here that I prefer the warmer vintages at Mollydooker (this does not make it right) because the sunshine and ease with which ripening can occur in a warmer year really seems to suit the plush, high-octane style being proliferated here. So, this 2021 Blue Eyed Boy Shiraz is far more on the blue fruit spectrum than the 2020 ..."

“The key here is comparisons of this same label from vintage to vintage, and contrasting the resulting impact from a warm vintage vs a cool vintage. Such distinctions are best revealed through comparison tastings of one vintage alongside another or others - what is referred to as a 'vertical' tasting (as opposed to 'horizontal tasting' which would be various wines from the same vintage). “

This was dark inky blackish purple garnet colored, full bodied, dense, concentrated, extracted rich fruit, yet balanced and approachable, despite its 16% high alcohol content, black and blue berry and pomegranate fruits accented by dark chocolate, licorice, anise and dark coffee with hints of creosote and oaky vanilla with dense full tannins on the long finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4177367

https://mollydookerwines.com.au/

https://twitter.com/MollydookerWine

https://twitter.com/unwindwine

Il Bruciato Super Tuscan, Torbreck Barossa Shiraz with Gia Mia Naperville Pasta, Pizza

Il Bruciato Super Tuscan, Torbreck Barossa Shiraz with Gia Mia Naperville Pasta and Pizza 

As summer wanes, we dined Monday outside with neighbors Richard and Adessa, on the deck/patio at picturesque Gia Mia in Naperville. Their Naperville location is sited in the old historic library amidst the bustle of downtown city centre. 

They have also in recent years opened several other similarly situated downtown locations in the Chicagoland western suburbs of Wheaton, Geneva, St. Charles and Downers Grove.

Their formula for success is ‘chef-driven, farm-to-fork food concepts, … Neapolitan style wood-fired pizzas, creative small plates, fresh pasta, antipasto, and hand-made mozzarella’. This is based on the vision, experience and drive of Chef Brian Goewey, who has been involved in or partially responsible for the opening of over 50 restaurants, ranging from quick-serve style to high-end 5-star restaurants.

We’ve become big fans of Gia Mia, and several of their pasta dishes including their Linguini, Risotto and their meatballs with polenta.  

Tonight we ordered these favorite signature dishes:

“The Bruno” (meatlover’s) Pizza - meatballs, pepperoni, Italian sausage, tomato sauce, mozzarella and basil with spicy Soppresatto Sausage, (I usually have them hold back the spicy sausage which I find overwhelming to the wine accompaniment),

Linguini Carbonara with bacon, garlic, black pepper, Parmesan cream, pecorino and egg yolk,

Arancini Mozzarella, Creamy Risotto with fontina, tomato sauce, garlic and basil,  

Rigatoni, and their Meatballs with Polenta

From their wine list we ordered this Super Tuscan from mega brand producer Antinori. 

This is from the broad Antinori portfolio of estates, Guado al Tasso, located in the small but prestigious Bolgheri DOC, on the coast of upper Maremma, about one hundred kilometers southwest from Florence. 

This relatively young appellation, DOC Bolgheri was established in 1995.

The huge Antinori Guado al Tasso estate covers 2500 acres of which 790 acres are planted with vines, set in the rolling hillsides known as the "Bolgheri Amphitheatre" due to its particular shape. The vineyards are planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Vermentino. 

The proximity to and effects of the nearby sea provide a mild climate with constant breezes that mitigate summer heat and alleviate harsh winter weather, maintaining a clear sky and a high level of sunlight exposure. The remainder of the estate is covered with wheat fields, sunflowers and olive groves.

Il Bruciato was created in the year 2002 during one of the most difficult vintages at Guado al Tasso in order to present the unique terroir of Bolgheri and give it a greater visibility and recognition. The first blend to be used was that of Guado al Tasso only to see, in the years which followed, a modification of the varietal composition and the identification of a series of vineyard plots intended to be used exclusively for this wine. 

Il Bruciato Guado Al Tasso Antinori 2022

In the fashion of what has become known as ‘Super Tuscans’, wines sourced in the Italian Tuscany region, but crafted from French Bordeaux and Rhône varietals. 

Il Bruciato is the ‘second’ label of the estate, first introduced in 2002 as a lower cost every day drinking label to the flagship premium Guado Al Tasso Super Tuscan blend, a more affordable interpretation of  and introduction to Bolgheri’s unique terroir made from carefully selected Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah grapes from Guado al Tasso’s vineyards with their geological composition of the soil is diversified giving the wine structure and complexity. 

Generally, this label provides high QPR - quality price ratio, available for a fraction of the price of the ultra-premium flagship and has gained a broad following to have for every day sipping with pasta, bold cheeses and meat dishes. The bold fruit flavors of the Syrah, Cab Franc and Petit Verdot added to the blend make this a crowd pleaser for wine lovers at all levels. 

The 2022 Il Bruciato is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, blended with Merlot, Syrah and a small percentage of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot: the blend was reintroduced into barriques where it was left to age before bottling. 

Producer’s tasting notes - “Il Bruciato 2022 is intensely ruby red in color. Dominant aromas on the nose include small ripe red fruit accompanied by notes of sweet spices and light hints of mint and tobacco. The palate has excellent structure, is remarkably mouth filling with a pleasant fruity aftertaste that makes it pleasantly easy to drink and closes with a lingering finish.

This release was rated 93 Points by Audrey Frick of JedDunnuck.com, James Suckling (JS93), and Wine Advocate (WA93), and 92 Points by Wine Enthusiast.

Bright ruby colored with opaque purple hues, full bodied, rich, dense concentrated ripe black and blue fruits with notes of blackberry liqueur, black olives, licorice, leather and hints of espresso and herbs with gripping but approachable tannins, supple texture and fresh acidity through the long finish.

RM 91 points. 

Then several days later, with friend Pat R, after a day trip to the Indiana Dunes National Seashore, we had the same dinner entrees, carry out, at home on our deck. 

For a wine accompaniment with the pizza and pastas, we opened another big bold expressive red for the girls while I had the remains of the Bordeaux Blend from the previous evening. 

Torbreck "Woodcutter's" Barossa Valley South Australia Shiraz 2021

This is another big full throttle, powerful big red wine, that offers high QPR for ideal accompaniment to zesty pasta and pizza. 

The producer’s website speaks of this wine on the content of their Gaelic heritage - “You’d imagine a high country Scottish woodcutter might like a satisfying red at the days end – something rich, warming, full bodied and affordable.’

“Torbreck is the name of a forest near Inverness, Scotland. You’ll find more than a passing nod to the Celts in our wine naming conventions including this tribute to the foresters of this rugged high country.’

“This wine reflects the up and coming Shiraz vineyards of the Barossa, rather than the battle hardened old vines that make up the core of our other cuvées.” This is the producer’s polite way of saying this is a lower  cost affordable alternative crafted from younger vines, versus the mature old vines in the premium labels of the brand. 

Hence, the producer website continues, “But like all Torbreck wines, Woodcutter’s Shiraz receives the very best viticultural and winemaking treatment. Fruit is sourced from hand-harvested and hand-tended, low-yielding vines, then open fermented and gently basket pressed before ageing on fine lees for 12 months in large format seasoned barrels and foudres.”

Although this wine is constantly praised for its succulence and richness, there is also a complexity and texture which is rarely found at this price.

This label is 100% Shiraz sourced from the sub-region vineyards in Marananga, Greenock, Seppeltsfield, Gomersal, Moppa, Lyndoch and Ebenezer in the south central Australia Barossa Valley. 

Winemaker’s note about this vinetage and release: “The 2021 summer growing season was mild, with even and cool daily temperatures throughout. Enhanced by good rains provided during the winter and spring of 2020, our vineyards grew wonderful canopies and developed well-formed grape bunches. As a result of this long flavour development cycle in the vineyard, 2021’s signature is wines of high aromatic lift with densely coloured tints and exceptional balance. Lifted red, black and blue fruits of red cherry, raspberry coulis, blueberry conserve and wild blackberry and blackcurrant. There is a spicy edge showing cardamom, star anise and Chinese five spice. Soft caressing tannins and voluptuous mouthfeel from plump Shiraz berries gives this wine a posture that belies its pedigree.”

Winemaker’s tasting notes: “This wine is crimson with subtle red plum undertones. Upon the first smell, the nose is a complex bouquet of dark plum and ripe blackberries, interwoven with the rich, dark essence of cassis and cherries. This fruity ensemble is accented with a hint of spice and star anise. On the palate, the wine reveals a medium to full body that masterfully balances intensity and elegance. The soft tannins contribute to a smooth and textural mouthfeel.”

25,000 cases were produced with 400 cases imported.

Wine James Suckling pundit loves this wine and gave it a whopping 96 points. Wine Spectator gave it a more down to earth 91 points. 

After tasting the more complex but subdued Bordeaux Blend, I switched to a glass of this big red and was overwhelmed by its big bold, almost obtuse vibrancy. 

Dark garnet inky purple colored, full bodied, dense concentrated vibrant expressive ripe blackberry and raspberry fruits notes of black tea, anise, bittersweet chocolate, green pepper, herbs sage and rosemary, 

RM 91 points. 

https://torbreck.com/products/woodcutters-shiraz

https://www.antinori.it/en/

https://www.giamiapizzabar.com/

Zaca Mesa Eight Barrel Syrah 2017

Zaca Mesa Eight Barrel Syrah 2017

Hosting grandson Miles for the day, Linda grilled a pizza on the deck and wanted a big bold Syrah for a 'pizza' wine.

It’s ironic how often we open a wine under circumstances that are a repeat of an earlier similarly situated tasting. Such was the case tonight when this was an almost identical re-occurance nearly two years to the day/date of this blogpost excerpted below - .

Zaca Mesa Eight Barrel Syrah 2017

Linda grilled a pizza on the deck and wanted a big bold Syrah for a 'pizza' wine. 

I pulled from the cellar this Santa Ynez Valley Syrah we discovered, tasted and acquired during our Zaca Mesa Winery and Vineyards Visit during our Santa Barbara County Wine Experience earlier that spring. We joined their wine club and received this as part of our inaugural wine club shipment of a select mixed case from that visit. 

Eight Barrel Syrah derives its name from an anomalous practice employed during its first vintage back in 1993. As part of an experiment from the inquisitive nature of then winemaker, Daniel Gehrs, rather than crushing the grapes, allowing fermentation, pressing the grape skins and stems – or pomace – to extract all juice, and then moving the wine into barrel for aging, that Eight Barrel Syrah was crafted by first allowing the wine juice to freely run out of the fermentation tanks off the grape skins and stems without pressing the pomace to release trapped wine. He then allowed the remaining trapped juice to slowly drain overnight into a separate collection, gradually extracting deep color and flavor from the grape skins. The collected volume of wine from that first vintage filled just eight barrels, and so it was christened “Eight Barrel”, a new and distinct bottling of Syrah. 

That wine’s opulent style created somewhat of a cult following that grew each year, the demand quickly and vastly exceeding a mere eight barrels. Hence, they no longer limit production to just eight barrels of the label. They do retain the branding in remembrance of the eight barrels of wine that started the tradition. Eight Barrel today, is one of our Zaca Mesa's most sought after wines, which they work to  craft a more hedonistic style to round out their portfolio of Syrah offerings.

Zaca Mesa Eight Barrel Syrah 2017

This is 100% Shiraz sourced from Santa Ynez appellation estate vineyards, Mesa vineyard Blocks B & A and Chapel vineyard Block G. 

It was aged 19 months in 8% new French Oak.

Winemaker notes for the 2017 Eight Barrel Syrah: "The aromatics (of the 2017 Eight Barrel Syrah) are lifted by tones of juicy plum and caramelized cinnamon, followed by an underlying element of seasoned firewood. The burly personality of this wine is evident upon the first sip, broadly covering the palate and offering an abundance of both red and blue fruits. The texture evolves as opulent tannins settle into a persistent finish of cured meats and dried cranberry."

This release was rated 92 points by Wine Enthusiast.  

Dark inky purple colored, medium-full bodied, black raspberry and plum fruits accented by spice, sage, black tea and tobacco notes.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3585981

https://www.zacamesa.com/

Zaca Mesa Winery Twitter - @ZacaMesa_Wine

https://x.com/unwindwine

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?3585981

Two Hands Lily’s Garden McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012

Two Hands Lily’s Garden McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012

Visiting Destiny Cove, our vacation rental home in Destin, (FL), we enjoyed a relaxing evening by the pool with some artisan cheeses, biscuits and assorted chocolates, paired with one of our favorite sipping wines, a full bodied, flavorful Aussie Shiraz.

This is from Two Hands, the handicraft of two producers, Michael Twelftree and Richard Mintz. The Two Hands 'Garden Series' portfolio of single vineyard designated Shiraz’ represents their six ultra premium select bottling Shiraz's from the six key South Australia regions and appellations; Bella's Garden in Barossa Valley, Harry & Max's Garden in Langhorne Creek, Max's Garden in Heathcote, Samantha's Garden in Clare Valley, Sophie's Garden in Padthaway, and Lily's Garden in McLaren Vale. Recognizable for their similar standard style, they are differentiated by different colored typeface letters, the McLaren Vale label blue denotes its proximity to the sea. 

The first vintage of Lily’s Garden was produced in 2000, as one of the first wines in the portfolio and was simply labelled ‘Two Hands McLaren Vale Shiraz’. When proprietor Michael Twelftree’s daughter Lily was born in 2001, the wine was renamed ‘Lily’s Garden, to complete the series with ‘Bella’s Garden’. 

Over time, Two Hand wines have gained a following among wine enthusiasts and critics, establishing a reputation for full round blueberry, blackberry and chocolatey flavours, and the ability to age gracefully. Over the years, the Lily’s Garden McLaren Vale Shiraz has received high ratings and critical acclaim as one of Two Hands’s top wines.

Two Hands Lily's Garden McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012

. 

With alcohol content of 16.5%, to say this big bruiser wine is big is an understatement.

Winemaker notes - “Despite its massive 16.5% alcohol content, this wine is very approachable and easy pleasant drinking, if one is accustomed to the big bold fruit forward select Shiraz's. Typical distinctive dark inky black purple colour and big full body with concentrated forward fruits. This vintage is a bit more subdued and moderate than many yet still has complex concentrated dark berry and ripe plum fruits, with tones of blue fruit, spice, dark chocolate and smooth well integrated oak. finishing with supple fine tannins on a lingering persistent finish.”

“South Australia’s viticultural origins began in McLaren Vale and our region’s Mediterranean climate continues to drive our region’s wine style and diverse food culture.”

“Lily’s Garden is the pick of the bunch from our growers’ McLaren Vale vineyards. Lily’s Garden is a generous wine with cascading blue fruits and a rich long palate, typical of the region.”

At twelve years, the important fill level, cork, and the label and foil were in pristine condition. This was probably at the apex of its drinking window, with several years yet at this level.  

Tonight, this tasting was consistent with an earlier one back in 2016 of this label when I wrote:

Dark inky purple, big, full bodied, plush, rich, concentrated thick tongue coating, black and blue berry fruit compote and coulis accented by a layer of spice, gravelly mineral, tones of mocha and black pepper with oak on the chewy tannin laced lingering finish.

RM 93 points.

Two Hands Lily’s Garden McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012 

Winemaker Notes - “The 2012 Lily's Garden Shiraz has a deep dark red, black core. Rich, bold and heady spiced plums aromas with notes of milk chocolate, vanillan, black pepper and fresh meat. There is a fine plump and juicy entry to the palate, echoing the aroma with waves of plummy fruits. Spicy mocha notes emerge mid-palate and are carried through to a finish filled with lovely long fine.”

This vintage release was awarded 94 points by Wine Spectator, and 93 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and the International Wine Cellar, and 91 points by Natalie MacLean. 

Dark inky purple colored, big, round, full bodied, rich concentrated black and blue berry fruits with notes of floral, spice, sweet mocha, and hints of licorice and pepper with a sweet smooth polished finish on the long tannin based finish. 

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?1795068

https://www.twohandswines.com/lilys-garden-mclaren-vale-shiraz/

https://x.com/twohandswine?s=21

Diverse Reds for Duck Dogs and Ground Sirloin Burgers

Diverse Reds for Duck Inn Hot Dogs and Ground Sirloin Burgers

Returning from a overnight trip to Indiana, a day in Lafayette and a day in Indy, we stopped in St John to visit fellow Pour Boy Dr Dan and Linda for a impromptu dinner. Dan grilled 'Duck Dogs', produced by Duck Inn in Chicago as a tribute to the classic Chicago Hot Dog, all beef hot dogs with a small amount of duck fat, and grilled sirloin beef burgers. Both were delicious.

The Duck Inn Dog has received numerous local and national accolades, including being named Top Dog by Food Network and Best Hot Dogs in Chicago by Food & Wine magazine.

We dined at Duck Inn with the Pour Boys together back in 2021 as presented in this blogpost - Duck Inn Chicago Unique Dining Experience.

With dinner, Dan pulled from his cellar a medley of diverse reds. Putting a call out for requests, I asked if we could start with a California Pinot Noir, following our recent tastings of a flight of such wines. 

Dan served an ultra-premium Seasmoke Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir, followed by an ultra-premium Aussie Shiraz.

SeaSmoke 'Ten'  Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2015

This is from Sea Smoke's estate vineyard in the Santa Barbara's Santa Rita Hills AVA.

Dan is a member of their wine club and gets access to these highly allocated very popular wines.

Owner/producer Bob Davids acquired the property in 1999. They produce Pinot Noir grown exclusively on the south-facing hillsides of the estate vineyards. 

The Sta. Rita Hills AVA is the coolest, westernmost sub-region of the larger Santa Ynez Valley appellation within Santa Barbara County. It is known to have the perfect microclimate for growing world-class Pinot Noir, with crisp ocean breezes and well-drained, limestone-rich calcareous soils. The Santa Ynez River canyon funnels the cool maritime fog layer (sea "smoke") across the hillsides, slowing the ripening process and providing the extended maturation period essential to the development of top-quality Pinot Noir. The shallow clay soils are planted to French clones on vigor-reducing rootstocks, resulting in fewer grape clusters of intense flavor, ripening optimally while retaining brisk acidity and harmonious balance. 

Sea Smoke's "Ten" is named for the ten different Pinot Noir clones planted in their estate vineyard which all find their way into this bottling. 

Sea Smoke notes is "the most masculine wine of their multiple labels, brooding and intense, with firm, mature tannins and a long, velvety finish. Ten is not for the faint-of-heart and has been known, on occasion, to convert even the most fanatic Cabernet lover."

Winemaker Don Schroeder explains, “The wealth of clones at our vineyard is one of the keys to the complexity of our wines.” This bottling is made from all ten clones farmed directly from the organic- and Biodynamic-certified estate vineyard: Aged 16 months in French oak, it shows scents of chocolate syrup and baked plum pudding. A solemn Pinot, it remains extravagant with flavors of black cherry washed with rose petals and rhubarb. Tilled soil, beet root, and firm tannins prove its profundity."

 

Winemaker Notes - A brooding and intense wine. The dark fruit dominant aromas begin with notes of cola, Black Cherry and Blueberry, then some Asian spice, chocolate and a hint of Rose petals. Firm, mature tannins—evidence of Ten’s ageability—are followed by a long, velvety finish. 

The wine was aged for 16 months in 60% new French oak before bottling. 

This was rated  95 points by the Tasting Panel and 94 points by Wine Enthusiast and a Cellar Selection.

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, bright concentrated black cherry and black plum fruits with notes of clove spice, vanilla bean, pepper and earth.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2612871

https://www.seasmoke.com/

Next Dan pulled one of our favorite labels, a big hearty Aussie Shiraz.

Clarendon Hills "Piggott Range Vineyard" Syrah McLaren Vale South Australia 2011

I wrote about this label in an earlier blogpost. "This vintage release of this label was not as big or fruit filled as the other releases I have tasted, taking on a little bit more menthol and acidity than the more complex concentrated fruit flavors of the 2004 that we paired and compared. One Cellartracker reviewer MMack gave it 92 points and compared it to a CDP (Chateauneuf du Pape). Vivino reviewer DcLaxFan also likened it to a Rhone, he wrote "From a winery founded by a biochemist, the Syrah opens with a nose of smoked meat, mulberry, tapenade, and plum. Savory mouth of prunes, brisket, cassis, and earth. A wild, smoky, meaty feel like a Rhône Vacqueyras."'

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1953014

Dan then pulled from his cellar this surprise label. We both acquired this label as part of our wine club allocation from the producer. Linda and I actually took this label to Florida on our recent trip to enjoy but never got the chance to drink it and brought it back to have at a future occasion. Tonight, we got to try this new label bottling we've been eager to try! 

Force Majeure Walla Walla Estate Syrah 2020

This is from Force Majeure, an ultra-premium producer winery located in the Walla Walla Valley, specializing in estate-grown, single-vineyard Bordeaux and Rhône-inspired wines. Force Majeure wines are the handicraft of Todd Alexander, former winemaker for Bryant Family Vineyards and a couple of other notable Napa producers. He and his wife Carrie relocated their family to Walla Walla to take on the Force Majeure estate and brand. I featured Todd in these pages when he took on that role back in 2016 - Todd Alexander joins Force Majeure Winery.

We visited the Force Majeure Walla Walla Estate back in 2018 and wrote about that visit in this blogpost at the time - Force Majeure Vineyards Site Visit and Tasting, as part of our Walla Walla AVA Visit that provided the opportunity to visit this vibrant emerging wine region, meet some legendary winemakers on the Washington wine scene, and experience the best of Red Mountain and Walla Walla appellation wines. We walked the estate vineyards, source for this wine with the rocky soil, and thus were excited to eventually receive this release of this wine as part of our club allocation.

Force Majeure had recently acquired two new vineyards in the Walla Walla Valley. The site is within the boundaries of the The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater AVA, just across the Oregon side of state line border. The portion of the vineyard outside The Rocks District is within the borders of the Walla Walla Valley AVA.

The Rocks District is named for the rocky deposits left by the Walla Walla River where the river exits the foothills of the Blue Mountains and enters the Walla Walla Valley. It resembles the gravelly soil of the Southern Rhone River Valley in Chateauneuf du Pape. The Rocks District of Milton Freewater is the country’s newest AVA. Wine Spectator calls this AVA “perhaps America’s most distinctive example of terroir."

The unique riverbed of cobblestones and pebbles is as much as two hundred feet deep, formed 12,000 years ago from massive floods that swept through the region caused by ruptures in the ice dam that held Montana's glacial Lake Missoula. The Rocks District is a 12-square mile alluvial fan of 3,770 acres. 

Force Majeure Walla Walla Estate Syrah 2020

The property is partially within the boundaries of the The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater AVA, on the Oregon side of the border, and is located adjacent to the site of our new winery. The portion of the vineyard outside The Rocks District is within the borders of the Walla Walla Valley AVA. The Rocks District is an alluvial fan, and the cobbles that define the area are a result of deposits left by the Walla Walla River. 

This vineyard was planted between 1992 and 1994, and has a diverse soil profile covering the cobble stones, highest at the north end of the property and most shallow at the southern end. This gives us a lot of diversity within a small area, and the grapes will have different characteristics depending on the soil composition where they are grown. This vineyard is in an area proven to have very distinct terroir.

The unique topography and geological variants in these vineyards provide fruit characterized by stunning intensity, depth, concentration and complex flavors.

This wine was rated 20/20 points, Rand Sealey, Report on Washington Wines 

All Syrah that saw 30% stems and roughly 30% new barrels,

Inky dark purple garnet colored, medium to full bodied, bright vibrant complex black cherry with some blue fruit tones, with notes of earth, violet, pepper and herbs, with chalky minerality and tannins on the lingering finish. 

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4624205

https://forcemajeurevineyards.com/ 

@ForceMVineyards

Family Celebration Dinner - Smoked Ribs, Big Reds, Champagne

Family Celebration Dinner - Smoked Ribs, Big Reds, Champagne

Son Ryan and d-in-law Michelle hosted a family celebration dinner for Erin's birthday and my recent transformational business transaction that is a page turner in closing out my career in Enterprise Software to focus on family and my various interests. 

Ryan smoked and grilled ribs and chicken for dinner accompanied by potato wedges, salad and haricot verts.  

Ryan pulled from his cellar an ultra-premium special edition blended Champagne to kick-off the celebration. We then had an extraordinary flight of big reds to accompany the bar-b-que dinner. 

Prior to dinner we brought and had some fabulous 14 year aged cheddar and some blue cheese, and Linda zuchini bites with parmesan, red pepper and red onion. 

Ryan opened with a limited release Cliff Lede Rock Block Napa Cab. I supplemented our wine flight with a Tensley single vineyard designated Shiraz big red.

Krug "Grande Cuvée" 168 ème Édition Brut Champagne 

 Each 'Édition' of Krug "Grande Cuvée" is uniquely crafted each year since 1843 to produce their finest flagship blend regardless of annual variations in the climate. It is typically blended from considerably more than 100 different wines, the result of six months of intensive tasting by the Krug team. The aim, as Cellar Master Eric Lebel describes it, is not to produce the same wine each year, but to produce the best possible wine each year, so every rendition of Grande Cuvée is different—differences that are now highlighted by Krug's laudable decision to enumerate each successive release. 

Crafted by Krug team lead by the old cellarmaster Eric Lebel, who is still in the background, and is grooming his successor Julie Cavil, who has been learning from him since 2006.

In line with the producer’s practice, each bottle and bottling of its flagship Grande Cuvée are individually numbered, this is the 2020 release.

Krug’s NV Grande Cuvée 168éme Édition was based on the 2012 vintage harvest, complemented by fully 42% reserve wines, Pinot Noir from Verzenay and Chardonnay from Avize, a blend of 52% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay and 13% Meunier, across a staggering 198 different wines from eleven vintages going back to a precious, powerfully aromatic lot of Verzenay Pinot Noir 1996, making up the remainder 58% of the wine. It was bottled in 2013 and aged for seven years in Krug’s cellars in Reims.

It should be noted that 2012 yields were down more than 20% at Krug – there was no vintage 2012 bottling. 

Winemaker notes: "2012 was a beautiful year for wine with a low yield due to the full spectrum of climatic events that hit 2,100 parcels in the vineyards of Champagne. Growers had to be particularly attentive to the vines to ensure a great harvest. In the end, the wines were round and elegant with pastry notes, which is why for the 168ème Édition of Krug Grande Cuvée I looked for reserve Chardonnay with freshness and vivacity from plots in Avize and Marmery and Pinot Noir from plots on the Montagne de Reims Nord and Verzenay to bring the right amount of tension. I love this Édition because it illustrates the importance of listening to the land. A light golden colour and fine, vivacious bubbles, holding a promise of pleasure. Aromas of flowers in bloom, ripe, dried and citrus fruits, as well as marzipan and gingerbread. Flavors of hazelnut, nougat, barley sugar, jellied and citrus fruits, almonds, brioche and honey." - Eric Lebel, Krug Cellar Master.

This release was rated 97 points by James Suckling #56 Top 100 Wines of France 2020, 19 of 20 by Jancis Robinson,  96 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, Wine Enthusiast and Decanter, and 95 points by Wine Spectator and 93 points by Vinous.. Amazingly one attributes the Drinking Window 2020 - 2037.  

Golden colored, medium-full bodied quite rich, nicely integrated and balanced with layers of fruit apple, pear, toasted nuts and hints of pineapple with what one pundit called 'pie crust and biscuit' another 'crème pâtissière' dominant, and another referred to 'freshly baked bread', with lively backbone of acidity on the finish.

RM 94 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3429982

https://www.krug.com/champagne/krug-grande-cuvee-168eme-edition

Based on this unique bottle number ID - 

https://www.krug.com/krugid/krug-grande-cuvee/419034

https://www.krug.com/

@krugchampagneus 

Cliff Lede ‘Roundabout Midnight’ Rock Blocks Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

Cliff Lede grew up in his family’s construction business in Canada, and became enamored with Napa Valley while on a business trip in the 1990s. A collector of top Bordeaux, he saw great potential in the Stags Leap District and founded Cliff Lede Vineyards 2002 with the acquisition of 60 acres in the Stags Leap District of Napa Valley. 

Cliff engaged industry experts to redesign and replant the majority of the estate. The estate was split into two distinct vineyards in the northern corner of the Stags Leap District appellation. The steep, southwest-facing hillside vineyard that surrounds Poetry Inn is the Poetry Vineyard reaching  from the valley floor up to the highest elevations of the appellation. It is the sole source of Lede flagship Poetry label. 

Next to the hillside, shown above the Twin Peaks Estate vineyard sits on the valley floor surrounding the tasting room and winery. Twin Peaks Estate is planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Sauvignon Blanc, and Sémillon.

The resulting plantings were so specific and precise to each soil type and exposure that, to keep track without having to refer to a clipboard, Cliff decided to name each block after some of his favorite rock songs and albums. From “My Generation” to “Dark Side of the Moon,” he created what is known today as the Cliff Lede Vineyards “Rock Blocks.” The winemaking team gets creative with this innovation, annually crafting a small-lot Rock Block Series “mash up” of two or more blocks, featured in the tasting room and wine club.

Our visits and private tours and tastings have been the highlights of several of our Napa Valley visits dating back to 2009 - before I started this blog. 

Overseen by Director of Winemaking Christopher Tynan and Winemaker Travis Bullard, CLiff Lede produces a portfolio that includes Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley - one of our favorite labels of this varietal; Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District; Cabernet Sauvignon, Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard; the Rock Block Series, Stags Leap District; Songbook, Napa Valley; and the flagship wine, Poetry, Stags Leap District, among others that are offered only to wine club members.

Each year Cliff Lede produces the Rock Block series, crafted from their estate vineyard blocks and named after Cliff’s favorite rock songs and albums. The name of this blend is derived from Yes’ “Roundabout” in their Twin Peaks vineyard and from Eric Clapton’s “After Midnight” from the legendary top flight Poetry vineyard. 

Ryan obtains these special release labels as part of his wine-club allocation. This label was highlighted and showcased at the Cliff Lede 20th Anniversary celebration and 2019 release party tasting.

Winemaker Notes: "The Cabernet Sauvignon in “After Midnight” is planted in shallow volcanic soil and farmed to low yields, contributing structure, concentration, and classic Stags Leap character to the backbone of the blend. “Roundabout” is a block of Cabernet Sauvignon that contributes a luxurious perfume, flavors of ripe, dark fruit, and plush texture.'

Winemaker's Notes: "This hedonistic elixir unleashes an exceptional fragrance of violets, blackberry preserves, slate, and unctuous warm plums. Dark and brooding, the satiny entry continues seamlessly across the palate whilst flavors of cedar, lilac, and black licorice candy dance and sing effortlessly to a long and energetic finish." – Christopher Tynan, Director of Winemaking

This release is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc, underwent twenty-one months of élevage in French oak barrels, 74% of which were new.

This release was rated 98 points by Wine Enthusiast Virginia Boone, 95 points by Owen Bargren and International Wine Report. 

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, dense and concentrated, round, rich core of black currants and dark cherry fruits accented by creme de cassis, notes of tobacco, spice, cocoa, graphite and crushed gravel. 

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4291471

https://cliffledevineyards.com/

https://twitter.com/CliffLedeWine 

@CliffLedeWine 

Tensley Colson Canyon Vineyard Santa Barbara County Syrah 2020

I pulled from the cellar, perhaps the current best drinking bottle in our collection meeting the profile to enjoy with smoked BBQ, this Colson Canyon Syrah from Tensley Wines.  

Tensley Vineyard off Foxen Canyon Wine Trail

 

We discovered and acquired this and several other Tensley Santa Barbara County Wines, that I wrote about here, and replay below, during our Santa Barbara County Wine Experience earlier this year. This was the standout of that tasting and best represents the style that we love.

Tensley Vineyards tasting room
downtown Los Olivos

Tensley Colson Canyon Vineyard Santa Barbara County Syrah 2020

Winemaker Notes: "Everything we farm in house is something very special to us. This site is one of the most unique and special places in the world of wine. High (1400 elevation) in the hills north of the Santa Maria Valley with some of the most iron-laced soils I have seen in Santa Barbara County.'

"This wine always delivers juicy round seamless edges. This is the only wine we add some new French oak, as its weight and power integrates with the oak, adding a bit of toasty buttery complexity. Colson Canyon is such a beautiful example of fruit forward juicy California Syrah. Open it anytime and enjoy its blueberry, cassis and chocolate nuances or leave it 20 years and enjoy its leathery, almondy notes. It does not really matter when you open it, it will deliver."

1925 Cases Produced

This was awarded 94-96 points by Jeb Dunnuck and 96 points by Wine Advocate.

Might I consider this the Tensley 'flagship'? This reminded me of a couple other memorable highly rated Syrahs, Kongsgaard Carneros Hudson Vineyard and Penfolds Grange. Both are flawless, seamless, and notable for their smooth, polished, balanced profile. While not to that level of perfection perhaps, this is close and evokes the same experience. This bottle was from the Wine Club allocation we received from that visit. We're anxiously awaiting our fall release shipment that we're told was shipped this week.

Dark inky purple colored, full bodied, thick concentrated unctuous juicy black and blue fruits with layers of cassis and chocolate nuances with notes of oak, leather and tobacco on a tongue coating lingering finish. With the perfect BBQ rib pairing ...

RM 95 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4090797

https://tensleywines.com/ 

@tensleywine

Family Holiday BBQ Wine Cook-out

Family Holiday BBQ Wine Cook-out Features Family Favorites

Son Ryan and D-in-law Michelle hosted the family for a traditional Independence Day holiday cook-out and we opened several nice wines for the occasion. 

We enjoyed family, yard games with the traditional competitions in 'bags' and other, and culminating the day with celebratory fireworks.

Ryan smoked beef brisket and chicken and opened from his cellar a medley of whites and reds and I brought a couple reds for the occasion.

 

Cliff Lede Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2019

We've written much about Cliff Lede wines in these pages, one of our favored producers. The Cliff Lede winery estate and vineyards with their picturesque sculpture gardens at Yountville Cross Road and Silverado Trail are one of our popular visits during our many trips to Napa Valley. One of the more memorable was our private tour and tasting during our Napa Wine Experience 2009.

Normally one of our go-to wines we keep stocked for pleasurable casual sipping, today, we were introduced to a new label (below) from down under, one Ryan considers one of his go-to wines. 

This is a blend of 85% Sauvignon Blanc, 12% Sémillon, 3% Sauvignon Vert.  The juice was fermented in 68% French oak barrels, 30% stainless steel tanks, and 2% concrete eggs. 

This was awarded 93 Points by Wine Enthusiast and 90 Points by Wine Spectator.

Straw colored, light bodied, complex and structured but rather restrained, notes of melon and apple with hints of lemon meringue, tangerine with crushed rock and stone on the finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3710508

https://cliffledevineyards.com/

@CliffLedeWine 

 

Cloudy Bay New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc 2020 

I failed the blind tasting of these wines even with a fifty fifty chance of getting it right. I swore the Cloudy Bay was the Cliff Lede with its sprites of peach fruit. This overshadowed the Lede, normally one of my favored Sauv Blancs. 

Founded in 1985 by David Hohnen and winemaker Kevin Judd their Sauvignon Blanc put New Zealand wine on the map. Cloudy Bay joined Veuve Clicquot in 2003 and became part of the LVMH family in 2010.

Cloudy Bay’s legacy began in Marlborough with Sauvignon Blanc and now includes Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pelorus méthode traditionnelle. The spirit of adventure continues with Te Koko, a barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc, and Te Wahi, a sophisticated Central Otago Pinot Noir from their two special southern vineyards.

Winemaker Notes: "The 2020 Sauvignon Blanc is bright and focused, with appealing and expressive aromatics of ripe grapefruit, makrut lime and passionfruit on the nose. The palate is mouth-watering , with zesty lime, lemongrass and juicy stone fruit characters melding together, underpinned by a subtle minerality. The vibrant concentrated fruit and freshness bestow poise and balance, and lead though to a long and impressive finish. A wine that will age gracefully for many years."

Straw colored, light bodied, aromas of floral, fresh and vibrant with aromatics of bright citrus, kaffir lime, orchard blossom and passion fruit, flavors of peach predominate with a crisp clean sharp tangy finish.

RM 91 points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3767494

https://www.cloudybay.com/en-us/

@CloudyBay 

Philip Melka CJ Cabernet Sauvignon 2001

For a family gathering I brought from our cellar a family oriented wine, this label a tribute to Philippe and Cherie Melka's children with its child's handprints on the label. I took this in tribute to our two new granddaughters additions to our family this year, Lavender and Marylin.

We've recently been enjoying Philippe Melka's handicraft in the Long Shadows Vintners Series with his Pirouette label. 

When I last wrote about this label a year ago I said, 'at twenty years this is clearly past its prime drinking window and starting to diminish from age', but that was refuted tonight with this bottle. 

The fill level and label were perfect and the cork was near so as well. There were no signs of the cloudiness reported in that earlier note, leaving me to believe that tasting was an aberrant bottle. Tonight, this resembled and was consistent with previous, earlier tasting notes.

This was dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, the vibrant dark blackberry fruits were accented by earthy flavors of cedar and tobacco with notes of tar, smoke and hints of mocha.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=19571

https://www.melkaestates.com/

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2021/07/phillip-melka-cj-napa-cab-2001.html

@MelkaEstates

Fleury Estate Lauren Bryce Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

Ryan collects this wine as a member of their wine club and has amassed a vertical collection of their various labels. We first met Brian and Claudia Fleury at a Del Dotto event in their earliest days when they were just starting Fleury Estate back in 2000.

The Fleury Estate lies just south of St. Helena in Rutherford with a tasting room, winemaking facilities and a 11 acre estate vineyard. Fleury Estate Winery also owns 50 acres of premium vineyard land in the key locations of Napa Valley with vineyards in different appellations and elevations which enables them to craft consistent, high quality Napa Valley wines year after year. 

The cork of this thirteen year old disintegrated upon opening and the bottle had a slight funk to it which blew off for the most part after a while - but the bottle was clearly an off bottle. Never-the-less I found it enjoyable and notable drinking for the occasion. 

I defer to my tasting notes from this label from two years ago since it was somewhat consistent and perhaps a more fair representation. 

From earlier tasting in 2018: This (vintage) was dark blackish inky colored with full body, rich concentrated bright, vibrant, forward unctuous fruits of sweet ripe dark berry, black raspberry and currant fruits with notes of dark mocha and sweet toasty oak turning to nicely integrated tannins on a full chewy lingering finish.

This was delicious, very much my preferred style and profile, but perhaps too sweet for some folks' palette! That day I gave this 94 points. 

Today, likely due to bottle variation I give it a 91.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/08/fleury-estate-napa-valley-cabernet_8.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1491336

https://www.fleurywinery.com/

@FleuryWinery

Mollydooker Carnival of Love 2017

We have fun with the whimsical labels of Mollydooker with their cartoonish characters and circus poster themed labels. But, there is nothing whimsical about their big full-throttle Shiraz in their premium label Carnival of Love. We adopted this and the companion Enchanted Path labels years ago for family celebration dinners.

This is one of our family favorites that we collect and serve at special family occasions. I featured this producer and label in an extensive blogpost back in 2018, and in an broader exposition of their portfolio earlier back in 2014, and most recently in February of this year.

'Carnival of Love' has become one of our family tradition wines which began when we started serving at wife Linda's and then family birthday parties, since Linda is a Lefty. We love this style of this big opulent forward Shiraz.

The Carnival of Love Shiraz is one of their best and has made the Wine Spectator's "Top 100" twice, the 2012 was #2 in 2014, recognized as the #2 Wine in the World, and that year, Mollydooker was named Winestate's Wine of the Year for 2014.

Winemaker notes for this release: "This McLaren Vale Shiraz is powerful and expressive. Lifted aromatics of dark berries and smoky oak leap boldly from the glass. With a satin like palate; cherry and satsuma plum flavors develop into decadent dark chocolate and licorice. Complex flavors, phenomenal depth and perfectly polished tannins are what makes this Carnival of Love one to be savored and celebrated."

This is 100% Shiraz. The grapes were grown on the Gateway vineyard in McLaren Vale, and the juice was barrel fermented and matured in 100% American oak and 100% new. 

This release was awarded 94 points by Wine Advocate and 93 points by Wine Spectator.

Dark purple garnet colored, full bodied, rich, concentrated, textured, juicy velvety smooth raspberry and cherry fruits with notes of caramel, cedar, oak and spice on a tongue coating lingering finish.

RM 93 points. 

 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3097884

 

https://mollydookerwines.com.au/  

@MollydookerWine

 

Ryan also served Mollydooker Two Left Feet Shiraz Cabernet and Austin Hope Paso Robles Cabernet. I'll feature them in a follow-on tasting post.