Return to Cellar Wine Bistro, Lafayette

Return to Cellar Wine Bistro, Lafayette

For the second time in as many weeks, we found ourselves in Lafayette (IN). Unfortunately, it was for another Celebration of Life of a recently departed dear friend of wife Linda, from her hometown. 

Following the gathering, we went back to the Cellar Wine Bistro in downtown Lafayette, which we enjoyed so much on our previous recent visit - featured in this blogpost - Kosta Browne Chardonnay at The Cellar Wine Bistro Lafayette.

Tonight, we had the pleasure of meeting the owner, Michelle, whose love of wine and hospitality was the impetus for opening the establishment. She personally manages the wine program. It was a pleasure meeting her and showing our support for the business, and learning more about her background, and wine country insights and experiences. 

 

We ordered the plate of olives, the bread plate of house-made Focaccia & whipped berry flavored butter …

And the Baked Brie with Tart black cherry, sage and crostini … 

And the Roasted Asparagus with whipped ricotta, jammy egg, parmesan, wtih lemon-dijon vinaigrette …

Invariably, when visiting a wine centered venue, I will customarily ask the server if they have any wines that are not on the winelist. Typically, there are, given the challenges and dynamics of keeping an extensive wine list up to date. So it was, tonight, that there were several recent acquisitions that had not been updated on the published list.

We selected a unique appellation varietal combination, never experienced before, a Tuscan Chardonnay, from a top reputable producer, whose wine we have enjoyed in the past. 

Isole e Olena Collezione Privata Chardonnay 2022

We discovered and enjoyed Isole e Olena wine at a spectacular wine and dinner outing at Bruna’s Ristorante in Chicago’s Little Italy as featured in this post - Wine & Dinner at Bruna’s in Chicago’s Little Italy.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2025/10/wine-dinner-at-brunas-in-chicagos.html 

Having enjoyed that label from this producer, I was eager to try another wine from their portfolio, especially a unique varietal and appellation offering such as this. 

This unique limited release Tuscan Chardonnay is from the historic Chianti Classico estate Isole e Olena. Founded in 1956 by Francesco De Marchi, Isole e Olena is located in the western part of the Chianti Classico denomination, near the village of Castellina in Chianti, in the commune of Barberina Val d’Elsa.

The De Marchi family were originally from the north of Piedmont, between Val D’Aosta and the Italian side of Switzerland, where they had very small vineyards which were abandoned after World War Two. 

The Isole e Olena estate was bought by Francesco De Marche, Paolo’s father in 1956. It consisted of two abandoned hamlets, Isole and Olena, and the surrounding vineyards. 

Francesco’s son, Paolo De Marchi, took over the estate in 1975. De Marchi was born in Turin and studied agricultural sciences, viticulture, and winemaking at the university there, and as soon as he graduated and finished his training, he moved to the estate in Tuscany, and was responsible for Isole e Olena until its eventual sale in 2022. 

When he arrived in Tuscany in the mid-1970s, the Chianti appellation required “a huge number” of white grapes in the blend. The appellation rules changed in 1984, greatly reducing the requirement for white grapes in the Chianti blend which dramatically improved the wines. From his second harvest, Pablo  tagged the best Sangiovese vines, through what was known as “massal selection” based upon how the grapes perform in the vineyard, and transitioned to making a 100% Sangiovese wine from these better-quality vines.

In 1980, De Marchi started bottling this wine under the name Cepparello, named for the little creek which runs dry most of the season through the estate, a Sangiovese from old vines, aged in barrique. At the time, pure Sangiovese wines could not legally be called Chianti Classico. This wine eventually became the flagship signature wine of Isole e Olena and one of the first Super Tuscan wines. 

After ten years of working with these tagging and tracking the wines, in 1987, he planted a vineyard grafted from the best vines to concentrate in one vineyard, vines of the same age with the same rootstocks.

In the end, the vine selections were registered by a nursery and ultimately many new vineyards in the Chianti Classico DOCG were planted with vine selections from Isole e Olena, becoming a standard bearer of quality for the area. 

When De Marchi was considering retirement, there were no direct family members to take over the estate. De Marchi’s son Luca was already running the original family estate Proprietà Sperino in Lessona.

In 2022, De Marchi sold the estate to the French luxury group EPI, whose portfolio includes Champagne houses Rare and Charles Heidsieck as well as Biondi Santi in Montalcino. 

De Marchi remained as CEO through the transition to new estate director Emanuele Reolon who was appointed to continue the vision of Paolo De Marchi’s legacy of quality and excellence in viticulture and winemaking in a faithful expression of the domaine’s terroir.

The Isole e Olena estate covers 138 acres of vineyards, sitting at 1,148 – 1,476 feet above sea level on soils of galestro and marly schist. 

This Tuscan Chardonnay release was rated 95 points by Jame Suckling and Robert Parker, 94 points by Wilfred Wong of Wine.com and 92 points by Wine Spectator.

My thoughts were the same as expressed by Wilfred Wong of Wine.com, who wrote, “ I admit it, I rarely think of Tuscany as a place to satisfy my Chardonnay cravings. The remarkable 2022 Isole e Olena Collezione Privata took me by surprise. At first sniff, I thought, "Hmm, pretty interesting!" As I continue to savor it, I realize how significant this experience was going to be.”

Winemaker Notes - “Light greenish gold in color, the Chardonnay is aromatic on the nose, with spicy, buttery perfumes. On the palate it balances ripe fruit, fresh bread crust from the oven, with a hint of spice from the oak aging and a long, slightly citrus finish.”

Pale golden, greenish straw colored, medium bodied, polished, balanced and somewhat elegant with subdued poached pear , peach and citrus notes on a layer of cinnamon spice, hints of stone fruits, vanilla, toasty oak and butterscotch, integrated acidity, a zesty acidic grip on the long persistent finish.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?4966621

https://cellar422wines.com/

Wine & Dinner at Bruna’s in Chicago’s Little Italy

Wine & Dinner at Bruna’s Ristorante in Chicago’s Little Italy for classic authentic Italian cuisine and wine 

We ventured into the city (Chicago) to attend grand-daughter’s traveling soccer game in the Pilsen, ‘heart of Chicago’ neighborhood with views of the spectacular skyline in the distance. 

After the game, we ventured in to the historic ‘Little Italy’ ‘business’ neighborhood of south Oakley street for dinner. For literally decades, we’ve traveled to Taylor Street, the traditional popular ‘Little Italy’ restaurant district, as we watched the diminishment and closure of the classic historic trattorias there over the years. Indeed, the remaining restaurant that we now frequent there is Chez Joel, a classic French bistro. 

I’m frustrated and regret that somehow we missed or lost track of, and have overlooked this historic Italian ‘business’ neighborhood on South Oakley street, that still features no less than five historic authentic Italian restaurants clustered together on this street. Linda reminded me we dined there together with friends no less than thirty years ago. And, before that, she worked for a brief period just four blocks away and used to dine there with colleagues from work.  

We were delighted to rediscover this historic neighborhood that had blocked off South Oakley street between 24th Street and 24th Place to accommodate dinners on this exceptional, spectacular end of summer, autumn evening.    

We dined at Bruna’s Ristorante, situated on the corner of 24th Place and Oakley. Opened by Bella ‘Bruna’ Cani  in 1933 – the same year prohibition was repealed, it is the third-oldest Italian restaurant in Chicago. (Of course readers of these pages know we feature often Italian Village, THE oldest Italian Restaurant in Chicago.)

The story goes that when Bruna wasn’t cooking for her patrons, Bruna would dance on the bar while her customers sang. Bruna’s legacy continued as, until recently, you could find her daughter Marylyn (Mickey), who passed away in 2013 at the age of 94, relaxing on a neighborhood bench when the weather was right.

Bruna sold the restaurant in 1981 to Luciano Silvestri who shared her same heritage, being from the central Italian region of Tuscany, and shared a passion for authentic Italian food. Luciano still prepares many of Bruna’s original recipes, while also introducing several of his own family’s prized Italian dishes.

Current owner Luciano is a native of Siena, Italy, and has worked in the restaurant industry from a young age, working extensively in Switzerland and London. Before coming to Chicago in 1977, Luciano worked at the renowned Villa d’Este resort in Como, Italy, as well as on the Sitmar and Princess cruise lines.

Today, Bruna’s offers a wide assortment of pasta dishes, tender veal, and, of course, Bella Bruna’s original roast chicken recipe, still served every Sunday. They also boast what many say is the city’s best tiramisu, which Luciano makes himself.

Luciano remains involved greeting customers as well as pouring wine and making espresso.

We dined al fresco on the barricaded street, set up with the tables for diners from the group of restaurants up and down the block on both sides of the street.  

Following fresh Italian bread with virgin Olive Oil and fresh parmigiana cheese, Linda ordered from the classic authentic Italian menu for her entree, the appetizer bowl of fresh mussels in white wine sauce. 

We were served by Josef who has been on the waitstaff there for a mere seventeen years, having also worked previously at the legendary former Como Inn, another Chicago Italian cuisine institution in its day. He followed his father who also served in the notable Italian restaurants in the city and the neighborhood. 

At Josef’s recommendation, I ordered from the Chef’s Specialties, Veal Saltimbocca Alla Romana from the broad selection of Veal and Chicken dishes on offer, along with a side dish of Fettucini Alfredo.

Bruna’s offers an extensive wine list featuring mainly Italian wines with some Californian selections. Bruna’s also imports a Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, a wine made near Luciano’s Italian hometown which is offered by the glass and by the bottle.

They also offer a full page Reserve “Cellar Selections” that includes many classic premier Italian producers and labels including Biondo Santi, Casanova de Neri, Masseto, Gaja, Solaia, Sassicaia, Ornellaia, Valdicava and Tignanello. 

The Cellar Selections Reserve list also offered well known super premium American California classics including Dominus, Quintessa, Phelps Insignia, Opus One, Schafer Hillside, Caymus Special Select, Plumpjack, Far Niente, Groth Reserve and Darioush. 

We ordered this classic traditional Chianti Classico Sangiovese as a perfect wine accompaniment to our Italian cuisine. 

Isole e Olena "Cepparello" Toscana 2018

This highly regarded Isole e Olena is from producer/winemaker Paolo de Marchi. Isole e Olena is named for the formation of the two estates that were purchased by the De Marchi family in the 1950s. 

Fourth generation winemaker Paolo De Marchi studied Agriculture at the University of Turin and worked harvests in California and France before returning to the family estate in 1976. He improved the property in the Chianti Classico region through redevelopment and modernization.

De Marchi earned a reputation as “Mr. Sangiovese” and also the “Dean of Chianti” gaining notoriety balancing tradition with innovation by planting international varieties. 

This label of Cepparello was first produced in 1980 and is widely acclaimed as one of the greatest expressions of Sangiovese.  

He sold the estate and completed his last vintage for Isole e Olena in 2022 after 50 years. His final releases got rave reviews with ratings in the high nineties - the 2021 getting 99 points from James Suckling, 97 from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, and 96 points from Wine Spectator. 

Winemaker notes and description of the complex 2015 Cepparello: “Shows lots of black cherries, cranberry tea, caramelized orange peel, roasted herbs and citrus peel. Full-bodied with ripe and quite round tannins that frame layers of cherries. Bright and fresh, yet rich and long at the same time. The Sangiovese character really springs out of the glass.”

This 2018 Isole e Olena "Cepparello" Toscana was rated 96 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, 95 points by James Suckling, 94 points by Decanter and Vinous, and 92 by Kerrin O’Keefe.

This was my first experience with this producer and I’ll be on the lookout for it in the future while the current era vintages are still available. 

Dark red/purplish colored, full bodied, rich, concentrated, bold, bright expressive bright dried cherry and dark berry fruits, notes of cassis, balsam herb spice, lavender finishing with menthol and exprsso with round tannins on a savory slightly aggressive expressive finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3956336

We moved to dessert - Linda ordered the Cannoli and I had the Tiramisu. Both were delicious. Linda raved about the Cannoli - said it was the best ever!

https://www.brunasristorante.com/