Leña Brava Restaurant Chicago

Leña Brava Restaurant Chicago

We held a celebration dinner recognizing our team that contributed to the successful business transaction resulting in the sale of our company. In attendance were the 'deal' team from our company and our corporate finance investment banking advisors.

The dinner was held at Leña Brava Restaurant in the vibrant Randolph Street Restaurant Row in Chicago’s West Loop neighborhood. 

The recent renaissance has transformed the historic Fulton market meat packing and food processing and distribution area into one of the country's most vibrant commercial centers with the development of corporate headquarters, tech industry, hotels, bars, restaurants, and retail that include McDonald's world headquarters, Google, Mondelez, Herman Miller and more.

Leña Brava was created to celebrate classic Mexican dishes cooked over hardwood fire featuring seafood-heavy cuisine of Mexico’s Baja coast, with an all ”ferocious firewood” kitchen. Interesting too, given my focus on wine in these pages, is the feature of Mexican wines on their winelist, which I admit, I had never experienced before. 

We were seated in a private dining room with views of the cityscape, and dinner featured a bespoke menu for the evening.  Prior to dinner was an endless procession of delectable hors d'oeuvres and specialty drinks.

Our wine pairings for the evening including a White and a Red from the limited, focused winelist, from producer Casa Magoni, sourced from Valle de Guadalupe, on the Baja Peninsula, (B.C. - Baja California), Mexico. 

Both wines exceeded my expectations, neither the selection of varietals nor their profiles being what one would expect coming from what I would consider a hot climate. Apparently, the coastal effects, and they say the elevation, temper the terroir to produce such wines.  

The Valle de Guadalupe (Guadalupe Valley) is an area of Ensenada Municipality, Baja California, Mexico that is an increasingly popular tourist destination for wine and Baja Med cuisine. It is located 20 kilometres (12 mi) north of the City of Ensenada and 113 kilometres (70 mi) southeast of the border crossing from San Diego to Tijuana.

The Valle de Guadalupe's elevation and microclimate make it ideal for growing Vitis vinifera, cultivated grapes, suited for winemaking. As of 2018, there were over 100 wineries along the Valle's Ruta del Vino (Wine Route). Collectively, they account for 70% of all Mexico's wines.

The varieties of grapes grown to produce red wine in the Baja California region are Cabernet Sauvignon, Ruby Cabernet, Zinfandel Grenache and Mission. The grapes for white wines are Chenin Blanc, Palomino, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Saint Emilion and Malaga. 

The wines were appropriate pairings to complement the beef, cheese, and seafood selections. 

Our host arranged for a prepared menu flight of three courses with two selections each. 

The starter course consisted of Charred Queso Fresco - Garlicky green mojo, Picoline olives, parsley and lime served with coal-fired pan de campo.

The other starter course may have been the best selection of the entire evening, incredible, delicious, artfully prepared Wood-Fired Oysters - east coast oysters, preserved lemon-anchovy butter and chipotle. They were as delectable and unique as they were picturesque.

The two main courses were a fish and a beef dish - Wild Alaskan Black Cod marinated in red chile, roasted chayote, fiery arbol salsa and Wood-oven braised beef short ribs, silky tamal pudding, guajillo reduction, parsley & white onion salad.

The two main dishes were accompanied by two side dishes: Mexican Rice and Fingerling Potatoes.

The two wines were from the same producer, Casa Magoni - both from the same region, Valle de Guadalupe in Baja, California, Mexico.

Winemaker/producer Camillo Magoni, born in Valtellina, Italy, Magoni moved to Baja California in 1965, after studying viticulture and enology in Alba. He worked for almost fifty years at regional producer L.A. Cetto winery, another label offered on the Leña Brava limited, focused wine list.

Magoni is credited for helping establish the transformation of Baja California’s wine industry. Starting in the 1960s, he bought vineyards and experimented with many varieties, growing over a hundred of them seeking the right varietal best suited for the terroir of the area - soil, climate, exposure - all the elements that contribute to the character and profile of the sense of place and its impact on the resulting wines. He experimented with Chardonnay, Fiano, Viognier, Arneis, Moschofilero, Assyrtiko, Montepulciano, Aglianico, Grenache, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon, many of them field blends. 

Over the years, he sold his grapes to established wineries, and helped them move away from high alcohol reds while developing white wines. In 2012, faced with a surplus of grapes, he decided to start making his own wine. 

Like his experimentation in grapes, he also explored crafting techniques best suited for the local wines, trying new things, making many unique cuvées and trial batches. He introduced his Casa Magoni wines in 2016, and has become recognized as one of the iconic personalities of Baja California viticulture and signature wines.

Production of Casa Magoni has grown to total production approaching 21,000 cases per year.

Casa Magoni, Manaz, Vino Blanco, (Viognier, Fiano), Valle de Guadalupe, B.C., Mexico 2021

This white blend is 80% Viognier and 20% Fiano sourced from the “Campo Manaz” vineyard, on the east side of Guadalupe Valley, which lends the wine its name.

One cellartracker writes "A very nice blend combining soft, peachy fruit from Viognier with the more earthy, nutty, tart characteristics of Fiano."

Winemaker's notes: "A pale and luminous yellow with a light green hue. Fresh and elegant with white flower and mellow aromas. Citric notes like lime and grapefruit mixed with tropical fruits like pineapple and apricot are perceived. Fresh in mouth. Citric and floral notes are highlighted. Nice and firm acidity with a long and elegant finish."

Light grayish straw colored, medium light bodied, crisp, bright acidity with slightly tart stone fruits, mineral and notes of tangy citrus and tropical fruits.  

RM 87 points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4430936

 And for the red ....

Casa Magoni, Sangiovese/Cabernet, Valle de Guadalupe, B.C., Mexico 2021 

This is an imaginative unique blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon, also sourced totally from the Valle de Guadalupe, Baja, México.  

Winemaker's Tasting Notes: "A blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. These two varieties have been grown in the Guadalupe Valley for decades, as the climate and terroir is well-suited to them. Each variety is harvested and fermented separately. The vinification is done in stainless steel tanks to preserve the freshness of the fruit. The wine is bottled before the following harvest season.'

"Aromas of cherries and red raspberries, with black fruits notes in the background. Well-integrated tannins, more cherry and plum, and a hint of black tea on the finish. 13% alcohol."

Wine pundit Ian Blackburn who reviews Mexican wines awarded this release 90 Points. He wrote, "Freshness, purity and drinkability are expressed wonderfully in this value option. Color 13/15 (soft and pretty), Aroma 22/25 (fresh fruit, nice varietal expression), Body 22/25 (satisfying and indulgent), Overall 33/35 = 90 points."

Ruby colored, medium plus bodied, bright expressive dark berry and plum fruits with spice, tobacco and cedar sprites with tangy acidity and moderate tannins on a lingering finish. 

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4297199

The closing dessert course was Coconut Tres Leches Cake - Sponge cake soaked in coconut milk with toasted coconut and strawberry compote. 

Like all the dishes, this exceeded my expectations and was better than could be imagined, or discerned from the description which did not do it justice. 

Thanks to our hosts, and the Leña Brava team for a delightful evening and delectable dinner. 

https://www.lenabrava.com/

https://twitter.com/LenaChicago

 

El Che Pulenta Gran Corte Filet Dinner

El Che Steakhouse & Bar for Spectacular Wine, Beefsteak and Seafood Dinner

Dearest friends Eric and Cathy visiting from Indy, treated us to dinner at El Che Steakhouse & Bar on the edge of the trendy Chicago West Loop's 'Restaurant Row'. Taking its name from its site in the old Checker Taxi Association Building on West Washington Street, just off Halsted, El Che has earned a reputation as one of Chicago's premier steakhouses. 

Executive Chef/Partner John Manion and partner John Boyd have fashioned El Che after Argentina's asados, the traditional backyard barbecues featuring platters of rustic flame-finished grilled beef with its custom 12-foot hearth for live-fire cooking. The massive open hearth at the end of the restaurant, includes two grills, a small wood-burning oven/smoker and three separate chapas (flat-top grills) - one each for vegetables, seafood and meat.

Chef‐Owner John Manion was raised in Detroit until his family moved to São Paulo, Brazil, when he was just 8 years old. He spent the next five years immersed in the culture and food. It was this experience that rooted his passion and ultimately his signature brand, Latin‐local.

In 2012, Manion opened his first restaurant La Sirena, which means “hidden mermaid,” offering the dark and slightly mysterious atmosphere of a hidden spot one might stumble upon. 

In 2016, he opened El Che, housed in the former Checker Taxi building, fulfilling his dream to bring authentic Latin cuisine to fine dining in Chicago.

El Che offers diners a range of experiences, seating at the bar, individual tables in the open dining room or an adjacent more private room, or two special price-fixe experiences, the Chef’s Counter, seated in front of the hearth with a 10-course tasting for two, or the Hearth Table offering three courses served family style. There's an adjacent private dining room or for general seating, there is a wine pairing offering to accompany menu selections from a broad WBTG - Wine By The Glass list. 

During the first week of every month Wine Director/GM Alex Cuper selects from the winelist a B-T-G list featuring the different regions, varietals and winemakers of South America. 

The menu features South American-tinged meats, seasonal vegetables, seafood, and novel barrio-inflected snacks with an imaginative award winning wine list with the midwest's largest selection of South American wines, the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence list showcases a veritable who's who in progressive South American winemakers. 

El Che Steakhouse & Bar has received praise from critics and locavores alike, including a “Top 50 Chicago Restaurants” by the Chicago Tribune, "Best New Steakhouses in America" by Conde Nast Traveler, and "10 Best Steakhouses in Chicago" by USA Today.

The upbeat trendy chic 100-seat restaurant and bar is a must try spot for fine wine and dining.  

Our dinner was fabulous, hitting on all cylinders with delicious food, perfectly prepared and presented, ideally paired with a spectacular wine from the extensive South American winelist, all served with attentive exemplary service. 

Following a pre-course of olives and wedge salad, we dined on filet of grilled beef, and scallops with parsnip puree, apples and chives (shown right), with sides of garlic parmesan french fries and creamed spinach. We finished with the decadent flowerless dark chocolate sea salt cake for dessert.

Not being especially knowledgeable in South American wines, I spent time earlier in the day studying the winelist and researching the offerings. I chose and came to dinner with three rank order winelist selections. I also brought a bottle BYOB in the event they were not available. Notably, our first choice was available and it proved to a wonderful, ideal selection as a perfect compliment to our dinner. 

Pulenta Gran Corte VII Mendoza Red Blend 2018

This is from the Pulenta family who have been producing wine in Argentina since emigrating from Italy back in 1912. Third generation brothers Hugo and Eduardo, started Pulenta Estate in 2002 to produce small lots of premium wines from two vineyards their father Antonio planted in the early 80’s and 90’s, one in Alto Agrelo in Luján de Cuyo, and the other in Los Árboles, Valle de Uco. Second generation Don Antonio Pulenta, planted Viñedos 'Don Antonio' in 1981 and Finca 'La Zulema' in 1992. 

The estate covers a total of 992 acres with 870 acres planted to vines, the Agua Amarga, Tunuyán and Finca 'La Zulema' vineyards located at the heart of Mendoza's premier growing region - Luján de Cuyo - near the town of Alto Agrelo, were among the first vineyards to be planted in the higher-altitude growing region of Mendoza at elevations between 3200 and 3900 feet. 

They are planted to Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris grape varietals. They are bottled under a portfolio of Pulenta Gran, Pulenta Estate, and La Flor labels.

The overall portfolio consists of more than two dozen labels, the Pulenta Estate portfolio of varietal wines are each represented with a roman numeral that identifies a varietal or a blend produced with grapes from the estate vineyards in Alto Agrelo and Valle de Uco. The portfolio is Estate Sauvignon Blanc VI, Estate Pinot Gris XIV, Estate Chardonnay VII, Estate Malbec I, Estate Cabernet Sauvignon III.

The Pulenta Estate Gran Corte label is the flagship premium blend, produced from the best barrels, selected by Eduardo and winemaker Javier Lo Forte. Each vintage is a blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Tannat, although the proportions vary year on year.

The family has stated they believe the 2018 bottling is one of the best yet: a blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Tannat, from a memorable harvest season in Mendoza, it represents a perfect expression of Pulenta’s terroir and potential for remarkable consistency, balance and harmony.

The grapes come from select vineyard blocks from their Luján de Cuyo and Valle de Uco vineyard locations.

The blend for the 2018 vintage release is 10% Tannat, 14% Petit Verdot, 18% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon and 29% Malbec.

This release was awarded 94 points by James Suckling.

This was bright ruby colored with sprites of purple, full bodied, complex, nicely balanced, bright expressive ripe blackberry, plum and black cherry fruits with notes of spice, black-tea, tobacco and cocoa with round texture and silky tannins on a tangy acidic lingering finish. 

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3998699

http://www.pulentaestate.com/

https://www.paulhobbsselections.com/pulenta-estate

https://twitter.com/pulentaestate

https://elchechicago.com/ 

 

 

Bellemore West Loop Chicago

Trendy Bellemore West Loop Chicago Restaurant Dinner features Red Wine Flight

For a dinner meeting hosting EMEA team and a key business partner, we dined at trendy Bellemore Restaurant in the West Loop, Chicago. The bright, vibrant, trendy, chic high-end spot is from the group behind Girl & the Goat and Somerset. In partnership with Boka Restaurant Group, Bellemore aims to define the category of "Artistic American" in both cuisine and decor. Since opening in November 2017, the restaurant has been awarded #1 in Robb Report’s Best of the Best in the "10 Best New Restaurants in America’. Chef/Partner Jimmy Papadopoulos was also named as Robb Report’s 2018 Best Young Chefs in the country. 

In 2015, Papadopoulos was named Eater Chicago’s Chef of the Year, as well as one of Zagat’s ‘30 under 30’. Papadopoulos has been praised for his ability to “take the familiar and add layers of flavor to make it outstanding.”  He describes his style of cooking as "bold, bright and beautiful."

Chic, elegant, bright and airy, Bellmore features sleek interiors with brass details accentuated with natural elements, plush blush sofas, nostalgic wood & wicker seating, and theme of colorful birds highlighted by peacocks.

We dined at the 'chef's table adjacent and overlooking the kitchen.

Bellemore do not have a deep or broad wine list but the selection of offerings are carefully chosen to complement the menu.

The dinner menu offers three courses as well as a selection of sophisticated 'snack's. 

Our selections featured the Kona Kanpachi* with country ham, summer melons, jalapeño & mint.

and the Nori Radiatore with peekytoe crab, breadcrumbs, yuzu kosho & mint. 

No less than five of our group selected the Butter Poached Alaskan Halibutwith black rice, blood sausage, chanterelles & clams. I chose the Wagyu Tri Tip with slow roasted beets, shiitake mushrooms & tomato hollandaise.

For our wine flight, we started with a crisp Chardonnay from Louis Moreau, Chablis, Burgundy, France. We followed up with a flight of reds. I selected a course from simpler to more complex wines ending with a off-winelist Cabernet Franc for casual winding down our dinner. 

Chardonnay - Louis Moreau, Chablis - Burgundy, France 2016

Alain Graillot, Crozes-Hermitage, Northern Rhône Valley 2017

We had this label from the previous 2016 vintage during a team partner dinner in Paris back in May of this year. Producer Alain Graillot founded his domaine in Crozes-Hermitage in 1985, and has since become one of the most in-demand producers in the Northern Rhone. He is known for exuberant, robust, and complete Syrah based wines sourced from his 50 acre estate of 30-year-old Crozes-Hermitage vines on the flat alluvial plain at the junction of the Rhône and Isère rivers.

Photo-label from 2016 release

Alain is joined by his two sons Antoine and Maxime working the estate. They produce rich, concentrated reds that represent the best art of the possible of the Syrah grape: black fruit, intense aromatics, pepper and spice complexity underpinned by crisp acidity and fine tannins.

Graillot works organically, harvesting fruit by hand and fermenting in whole bunches. He ages his wines in used barrels, one to three-years-old, purchased from Burgundy’s best estates. His Crozes-Hermitage is approachable and enjoyable young, yet will age nicely for a decade or more. Despite the tannins that inevitably come from the inclusion of whole bunches in fermentation, Graillot wines are seldom hard-edged, overly tannic, or in need of extended cellaring. 

This 2017 release was bottled in March of this year, 2019.

JebDunnuck.com gave the 2016 a rating of 91 points when he wrote:“The 2016 Crozes Hermitage from this terrific producer offers a big blast of classic Crozes – dark fruits, earth, truffle, olive, and pepper on the nose. This is followed by a medium-bodied, rounded, nicely concentrated effort that has good acidity, building tannins, and a great finish. An incredibly successful wine in this vintage, it will benefit from a year or two of bottle age and keep for 7-8 years.”

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate gave it 91-93 points.

Tonight, the 2017 was bright ruby colored, medium full bodied, notes of floral and violets, black berry and dark plums fruits with notes of black olives, truffles and earth with hints of pepper on a silky smooth tannin laced finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2866234

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/05/french-wine-and-dine-experience.html 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3173385

Vieux Telgraphe Piedlong, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rhône Valley 2012 

We first discovered this label at Il Fiore Restaurant and Bar at the Langham Hotel in NYC last year. This is the second release of this Piedlong label that was first released in 2011. It comes from a 29 acre vineyard site from the stony soils on the Piedlong plateau in the heart of the appellation, north of the village, the highest point in the region. The Mourvèdre, comes from the Pignan lieu-dit, just to the east of Piedlong. We visited the Vieux Télégraphe estate during our CDP appellation tour back in 1998 and then again this year during our 2019 visit with owner/producer Alain Brunier at the Estate. was a highlight of our visit to the Luberon and Southern Rhône.

This label is a blend of 90% Genache Noir and 10% Mourvèdre. Comprised of but two varietals of the thirteen that are allowed in the AOC sanctioned blend, its a simpler less complex wine than the flagship label which under appellation rules can contain up to thirteen different varietals. 

The predominant Grenache grapes are sourced from 70 year old vines on the Vieux Telegraph 27 acre site on the stony Piedlong Plateau which is in the heart of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC area. Piedlong is north of the village at the highest point of the appellation. The Mourvèdre fruit is sourced from 50 year old vines on the 22 acre Pignan lieu-dit, east of Piedlong.

This 2012 Piedlong was only the second vintage for this label. It was vinified all in wood tank, with 30% whole-cluster, it possesses medium to full-bodied richness, firm tannin and excellent purity, with plenty of blackberry fruit, dried spice and licorice on the nose. It should continue to age nicely in the cellar and for another half decade or more. 

Giving up loads of kirsh, strawberry, dried soil, flowers and hints of meatiness; this classic Grenache is medium to full-bodied, ripe and textured, yet remarkably focused and fresh. While the acidity here is relatively low, it has plenty of fine tannin that keep it focused

Wine Advocate Jeb Dunnuck gave this wine 91-93 points.

Wine Spectator J.Molesoworth and International Wine Cellar Josh Reynolds both gave this 92 points.

Bright ruby color, medium-full bodied, vibrant black cherry and black raspberry fruits accented by dried flowers and peppery spices, notes of kirsch, dark mocha chocolate with a gripping but manageable tannins on a long lingering finish. 

RM 91 points.
 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/02/piedlong-cdp-foie-gras-il-fiore-langham.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1775915

 
Château des Eyrins - La Closerie des Eyrins - Margaux 2015

We stayed a short walk from this estate during our recent trip to Margaux. Husband-wife winemaking team Julie and Xavier Gonet-Médeville are a prodigy of French wines having both been raised in notable winemaking families: Julie’s family famous for its incomparable Chateau Gilette, and Xavier comes from a long line of Champagne growers in Le Mesnil.

Julie and Xavier bought the seven-acre Château des Eyrins estate in the village of Margaux from Eric Grangerou in 2008. The Grangerou family has been cellar masters for Château Margaux for three generations. Sited on a hillside plateau in the heart of Margaux, Château des Eyrins produces a classic Margaux: dense and deep, with incredible finesse and freshness, the wine undeniably expresses the identity of this glorious appellation.

This is the second wine of this small boutique producer - a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot and the remaining 35 Petit Verdot. Evidence that in great vintages, all boats rise with the tide and second labels can also be quite nice, offering wonderful QPR (quality price ratio).

This was a nice progression in our wine flight to a more focused, complex and sophisticated wine to accompany our dinner entrees; dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, elegant, polished and nicely integrated notes of black cherry, ripe plum, accents of spice box, dried herbs, tobacco leaf and silky smooth tannins on a moderate lingering finish. 

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3221599

Domaine du Collier Saumur La Ripaille 2015

From a small lot producer, not yet on the winelist, this label rounded out our flight for a simpler, more focused and enjoyable sipper to wind down our dinner evening. Comprised of 100% Loire Valley Cabernet Franc, the vines of Domaine du Collier lie within small parcels which are separated from its neighbors by a 12th century wall which protects the site from chemicals that may be used by neighbors in their farming. 

Each of the domaine's parcels lie on the flowing hill now famously known as the Brézé commune. The domaine is split 2/3 to 1/3 - Chenin to Cabernet Franc. For this La Ripaille rouge, vines range from 30 to 80 years in age. 

Aged for 3 years in a combination of used Burgundy barriques (1-3 years old). The domaine as a whole produces around only 1200 cases per year.

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, bright vibrant, focused black raspberry and black berry fruits with notes of spice, herbs and cigar box. 

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3268778

https://www.bellemorechicago.com

@bellemorechi