Tomahawk Rib-eye and Napa Cab Dinner

 Cowboy Tomahawk Rib-eyes and Duo of Napa Cabs Dinner

Saturday night holiday weekend dinner, son Alec, bach'ing it for the weekend, joined us for grilled Cowboy tomahawk beefsteaks and a duo of Napa Cabs. 

Linda prepared perfect Pittsburgh style bone-in ribeyes and I opened two diverse Napa cabs, a classic Grgich Rutherford and a Piazza Del Dotto. 

 Grgich Hills Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

As part of proper cellar management, consuming bottles that are at or nearing the end of their drinking window before they deteriorate, I pulled this 1998 vintage cab, the last of that vintage in our cellar, I believe. I've written often in these pages about the 1998 vintage that was a lackluster vintage overshadowed by the much hyped '97 and the follow on '99. Yet, for many years, the 98's were drinking very nicely, moreso than the much-heralded '97's that needed more time to open and reveal their true potential. And, they represented great values relative to their surrounding vintages. 

I have written in these pages before about Miljenko “Mike” Grgich, a legend in the wine world and Napa Valley. He gained international recognition at the celebrated 'Paris Tasting of 1976' known as the Judgement of Paris, the historic blind tasting by a panel of eminent French judges did a comparison tasted of notable French wines opposite selections from upstart California Napa Valley. When their scores were tallied, the French judges were shocked to learn they had chosen the 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay, crafted by Mike Grgich,  as the finest white wine in the world. The results stunned the international wine establishment and immediately earned Mike a reputation as one of the greatest winemakers in the world. The story chronicled in the book 'Judgement of Paris' and is told in a fantastic pop culture movie 'Bottle Shock'.

Thirty two years later, in 2008, 93 year Mike Grgich was was inducted into the Vintners Hall of Fame in honor of his many contributions to the wine industry. His hallmark is a sporting blue beret. My earlier post chronicled his whimsical 'Blue Beret' label designated Estate Napa Valley Chardonnay.

Alas, after two decades, this last '98 represents the end of the drinking window for this vintage, it will certainly diminish from here on. 

This bottle actually was holding up well, showing only slight diminution from age with the garnet color losing its luster and that Rutherford Dust layer starting to overtake the fruits slightly. 

The ageability of this vintage was diminished by the somewhat austere fruits with lack of firm structure or backbone. At this point the fruits were hanging on but moderate. 

Showing its age, the label was soiled, but the fill level, cork and foil of the bottle were near perfect for the age.

This is a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot.

Wine Spectator wrote about this label: "Well-balanced (for the vintage), austere and dry, with cedar, black cherry and green plum flavors that are appealing and complex. Turns tannic on the finish."

K&L, the respected and notable Bay Area wine merchant wrote, "the resulting flavors are a complex fusion of herbs, cherries and red currants. One of the riper 1998's we have tasted. Superb for the vintage!" 

Garnet colored with a ever-so-slight cloudy gray-brown hue starting to set in, medium bodied, balanced black cherry and plum fruits are starting to be overtaken by notes of cedar, wood, herbs and black tea with tannic acidity on the moderate finish. 

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=25700

https://www.grgich.com/ 

Piazza Del Dotto Napa Valley American Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

As with the bottle above, practicing cellar management, I pulled the oldest of the several vintages we hold of this label. 

We tasted and acquired this wine during our visit to Piazza Del Dotto during our Napa Valley Wine Experience 2018 and the spectacular Del Dotto Delicacies Food and Wine Experience. We also tasted and acquired other variations of this bottling during our Del Dotto Napa Valley Cave Tour Barrel Tasting during our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2017.

In contrast to the aged 1998 release above, this label is probably drinking at the apex of its drinking window now. I selected this as a perfect pairing with our grilled steak dinner and it proved to be right on!

Winemaker notes - Ripe red plum and baked almonds on the nose lead to oak-influenced clove and sweet tobacco with subtle layers of Mexican chocolate.  The first impressions on the palate burst with black cherry, black raspberries, stewed strawberries and rhubarb with a touch of pink peppercorns and kiss of oak with a long, clean finish.  

As I have written in previous blogposts, this American Oak bottling is part of a series where Del Dotto feature specific oaks in several of their bottlings including their classic Connoisseur Series.

This was an incredible perfect pairing with the the grilled steaks. 

Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, well balanced, bright vibrant integrated black raspberry and blackberry fruits, polished and elegant accents of clove spice, tobacco leaf and hints of bitter dark mocha and sweet oak turning to tangy smooth tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2258002

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/07/del-dotto-piazza-delicacies-food-and.html

www.deldottovineyards.com/visit/piazza

@DelDottoWine 

Visit to Venge Vineyards and Nils Venge

Visit to Venge Vineyards Saddleback Winery, Penny Lane Vineyard and Rossini Ranch with Nils and Kirk Venge

A Unwindwine memorable retrospective. Back in 2002, wine buddy AJ and I visited Venge Vineyards Saddleback Winery down at the northern edge of the Oakville appellation south of St Helena and met with legendary winemaker Nils Venge. 

Nils in Penny Lane Vineyard

After meeting and touring the winery and Penny Lane Vineyard there in Oakville, we took wine maker Nils Venge to lunch at Tra Vigne, our favorite Napa Valley dining site of that era. Dining in the adjacent outside garden with the fountain and the oversize monstrous granite dining table was a highlight of many visits to Napa Valley. 

Upon arrival at Tra Vigne, as if we needed another legend sighting/meeting, we ran into Margaret Mondavi.

Nils Venge and Margaret Mondavi

 At lunch with Nils at Tra Vigna, we dined on the terrace with the garden in the background amidst the blissful sound of the fountain. 

Tasting Venge Reserve wines with Nils Venge

 Over lunch, we tasted Venge Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 and the Venge Penny Lane Vineyard Family Reserve Sangiovese 2000. Nils was the first winemaker grower producer in Napa Valley to plant Sangiovese varietals and craft Sangiovese wines. 

After lunch, we drove up to the new Venge venture, Rossini Ranch, in Calistoga. There we met Kirk Venge who was stepping into and following the footsteps of father Nils. 

At the time they were deep into the development of the Rossini Ranch property digging the caves at the site. 

Nils, Kirk, & AJ in front of new cave
being dug at Rossini Ranch

 

Kirk was born in 1976 and raised in Rutherford, Napa Valley into a wine family and lifestyle. He earned his degree in Viticulture and Eonology at the prestigious University of California, Davis, graduating in 1998, and quickly set his sights on buying the Venge winery from his family. From this foothold he set out across the Mayacamas divide and set roots in Sonoma. 

 

Today, Kirk has acquired the namesake brand and business of Venge Vineyards upon Nil's retirement. He has succeeded in establishing himself as a leading winemaker, grower producer in Napa and has expanded his reach into Sonoma. His wines have earned high praise and he has vastly expanded the Venge portfolio and consults with many top brands in Napa as well as Sonoma County.  

 

In addition to his namesake vineyard and winery, Venge Vineyards, Kirk also founded Croix Estate in Sonoma County. In the spring of 2009, Kirk introduced the name "Croix" and a rough idea for property and an eventual winery in Sonoma. He released the inaugural vintage of Croix Estate in 2012 and opening of a new winery in 2018. From the Russian River site, Kirk focuses on estate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir but also produces a Zinfandel from the nine acre vineyard that dates back to 1904, and a GSM comprised of the Rhone varietals Grenache, Syrah and Mouvedre.  

 

Kirk also serves as consulting winemaker for several other producers including BCellars, Renteria, Promise Wines, Hunnicut, Trespass Vineyards, 11:11 Winery, Jax, and Macaulley Vineyards.

Venge Scouts Honor Trio

Venge Scouts Honor Trio - Big Red Blend Replay

Following our opening a Venge Scouts Honor for a Big Red easy sipping wine with cheeses and snacks the other night, we had another friend over for more of the same. The girls finished off the remains of the bottle from the other night to much fanfare, so I trolled the cellar and found this aged vintage release of the label. 

I was discussing the new label branding for this label, that I fear with the new upgraded packaging, coupled with the long run of high marks, will portend an increase in price ahead. Many times over the years we've seen a favorite label gain notoriety for a big year or a string of big years resulting for a big run-up in the price. This is understandable and acceptable when it rewards the producer for work well done. Too often it is exploited by the producer who raises the price precipitously above the price point for the label, taking it to another level, leaving the budget conscious fan base behind as the price enters a new strata. I won't name names but many readers will know one or more examples. 

Never-the-less, upscale premium packaging with painted labels is now the norm for Venge Vineyards labels, from the traditional legacy Napa bottlings to the newer Sonoma Russian River Valley releases under the Venge Vineyards brand, and the new Kirk Venge venture Croix Estate wines from the Russian River estate and winery.  

From our label library archive, here are more earlier branding labels of Scout's Honor, the 2001 vintage featuring the water color art library label. 

 

The premium upscale packaging of the new era Venge Vineyards and Croix Estate branding with painted bottles. 

Back to Scout's Honor, interestingly, in light of the above comments on pricing, Cellartracker records indicated the price for this vintage release was about 50% of the current selling price for this wine, albeit twenty years later.

Lo and behold, I found a vintage release with the old previous packaging label, from the 1998 vintage, certainly time to drink. 

Here shown are the three generations of labels for this wine, the original water color label that was part of a collection of colorful paintings for each label in the portfolio, the recent era label, and the latest release painted bottle for the 2019 release. 

Venge Vineyards "Scout's Honor" Napa Valley Red Blend 1998

According to my tasting notes, I last tasted this label release back in 2012 when I wrote, "This vintage selection was showing its age - from the brownish-orange rust hue rimming the glass to the earthy leather bramble taste that may have taken over for some of the fruit. Never-the-less the medium body was full of black raspberry and black cherry fruits accented by smoke and hints of creosote. Resembles the 1996 more than the 2001 release of this wine."

Amazingly, nine years later, tonight's tasting experience was the same as that earlier one, as if this wine was stuck in time at the point it was back in 2012. Still holding its own, at that point, but time to drink up. Notably, this is our last bottle of aged vintage release. 

The blend for this release was 85% Zinfandel and 15% Charbono. 

In that earlier earlier release tasting note back in 2012, I wrote about the Charbono varietal grape.

At twenty-two years, the fill level, label, cork and foil were in ideal condition.

 Upon opening this had a funky barnyard nose, which as expected did burn off after forty-five minutes to an hour. 

Never-the-less, the tasting profile was remarkably consistent with that earlier note, this vintage selection was showing its age - with a bit of that brownish-orange rust hue rimming the glass, and the same  earthy leather bramble taste that may have taken over for some of the fruit. It resembled the same medium body with black raspberry and black cherry fruits accented by smoke and hints of creosote and some earthy leather. 

RM 87 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1198470

http://www.vengevineyards.com/

@VengeVineyards  

The  Venge Vineyards Label Library Archive is on my winesite label library pages featuring a selection of the Venge libary of water color labels from the nineties.

Chateau St Jean Cinq Cepages Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

Chateau St. Jean "Cinq Cépages" Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

As the Coronavirus shut-in continues, our family and friends are having fun with our virtual wine tastings sharing texts and videos of our wines and dinners.

Friend and colleague Tom R texted me that he opened a 2003 vintage release (he's so proud that he has now mastered his 'ahso', two pronged cork puller) of this label and asked if he had waited too long? I replied, "absolutely not, we're still holding a dozen vintages of this label dating back to the mid-nineties". So, when Linda prepared grilled tenderloin steak with mashed potatoes and green beans, I pulled from the cellar this aged vintage release from 1998 for the pairing.

Chateau St Jean is one of the premier producers in Sonoma County and their winery chateau estate is a showcase highlight of the Sonoma Valley.

Our private tastings at the 1920's chateau with views of the Grand Lawn and Estate Vineyards and in the Reserve Room have been the highlights of our trips to the region including our 2017 Sonoma Wine Experience and our Sonoma Harvest tour in 2009.

Chateau St. Jean "Cinq Cépages" was one of the first classic Bordeaux Blend labels from the region and has always represented good value, high QPR relative to the top Bordeaux labels. It was the Wine Spectator #1 wine in the annual Top 100 list in 1999 with the 1996 vintage release. At that time the release price was $28, a remarkable value at the time. From then on, the label exploited its #1 legacy and notoriety and boosted the price point, but it still represents reasonable comparable value. 

Chateau St. Jean "Cinq Cépages" Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

At twenty-two years of age, this 1998 vintage release was still drinking nicely and holding its own, despite being from a lackluster vintage that was expected to have a short lifespan drinking window. The color is taking on a slight opacity and grey hue and the fruits are starting to give way to non-fruit flavors so it is starting to decline and should be consumed over the next year or so.

I have written often in these pages about the 1998 vintage release of Napa and Sonoma Valley Cabernets. Jancis Robinson of Jancis Robinson.com wrote of the 1998 vintage, "The vintage was slammed by some critics, and shame on them, for many terrific wines came from 1998, after the rush-to-judgment were made."

This was an over-achiever for the vintage exceeding expectations on release and in the years since. 

This classic Bordeaux Blend contains the five Bordeaux varietals, hence the name Cinq Cepages for the 'five flavors'. This release is a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, 6% Malbec, 2% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit-Verdot.

Robert Parker awarded this release 89-91 points, and Wine Enthusiast 90 points.

There was dense sediment in the bottle. This was dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, firm structure, tightly wound but nicely balanced with complex black currant and black cherry fruits with sharp acidity accented by briary herb, earth, cedar, hints soy and anise with moderate tannins on the long finish.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2027

https://www.chateaustjean.com/wines/cinq-cepages

Constant Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

Constant Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 -
The adventure, joy, and perils of holding vintage wine for a couple decades or more ...

Son Ryan came over for the evening and we went down and dug deep into the cellar to pull out this aged 1998 vintage release Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyards Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. We acquired this wine at the Estate during our Napa Valley Wine Experience back in 2011. My early blogpost of our visit to Constant Diamond Mtn Vineyard was here.

Bill & Beth, Bill & Jan, the late Freddie Constant,
Linda and me.

I’ve written often about the 1998 vintage Napa Cabernets. It was widely panned as being a subpar vintage, especially after the much heralded block buster ’97. As a result, prices on the 98 releases were lower, especially after a couple of years when 98’s were still sitting on the shelves and the vintage was considered lackluster relative to the range of choices of more favored releases.

Lo and behold, IMHO this represented an opportunity to pick up quality wines at bargain prices when compared to the higher price points on the highly rated releases. Ironically, a decade, and now two decades later, those wines were and are often tasting very nicely and in some cases are on par equivalent to some of the other vintage releases.

Often, ‘off’ vintages can provide great QPR (Quality Price Ratios). Of course, perhaps just as often, off vintages are just that, ‘off’ in terms of quality in some way or other, due to whatever shortcomings that vintage suffered, excessive heat, not enough rain at the right times, or too much rain at the in-opportune times, all suppressants to the realized quality of fine wine.

This disparity was magnified perhaps by the fact that the much heralded 97 vintage in many cases, never achieved its lofty accolades and expectations – too closed, too tight, too subdued, or some other diminution of expectations.

Perhaps its time will come as the ‘lesser’ 98 reaches and surpasses its prime drinking window and eventually end of life, while the 97, a longer lived vintage, lives on, and perhaps still realizes the apex of its potential, late in life. It can happen. . So, caveat emptor. Don’t be afraid to invest in ‘off’ vintages. The price differential can be significant with savings of 50% or more.

Often, only in such years are some of the higher rated, ranked wines approachable or affordable. Take advantage to experiment, if you dare. You might be mightily rewarded. Or, your lowered expectations will be met.

Another related point, my wine buddies have heard me talk about my experience with a case of Dominus Proprietary Red Wine that I purchased on release back in 1986. Dominus, the Napa Valley project of legendary Bordeaux owner/producer/winemaker Christian Moueix often trades at super premium prices, and tends to be a long lived wine, in the tradition and style of sophisticated, complex Bordeaux’s.

Those early Dominus labels featured pencil sketch drawings of Christian Moueix on the labels for the first decade, up until the 1991 vintage release.

With that 1986 Dominus, I was patient, and waited, and opened a bottle of the 1986 around 1989 or 90. It was lackluster, rather closed and tight. I waited another couple years with the same effect. This exercise was repeated several more times until about 2006, when at twenty years of age, two decades, it showed complexity, polish, balance, breadth and depth – the attributes of its true character and potential one might hope for or expect from the pedigree’d label. Alas. That is what Dominus is supposed to taste like. But then, ahah, I only had three bottles left to experience its magnificence.

While its fun to enjoys one’s investment in a cellar, with case lots of wine, to experience how a wine will age and mature and hopefully improve over time, there is the real risk of drinking your wine too early, or holding it too long. I now realized I drank many of my Bordeaux from quality 1980’s era vintages too young. But, I also fairly often come across a bottle that I held on to too long, especially if it got overlooked or lost in the cellar, or just got passed over too many times for something more appealing or exciting. Such is the art of collecting fine wines.

Most folks would think that we hold onto our wines too long and drink them too late. Count my wife, Linda in those ranks. We look at it as part of the adventure.

Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

My previous tasting of this label was in March of this year when I had a similar tasting experience and wrote: "Some bottles of this vintage are at or nearing their end of life and need to be consumed. While at the end of or past its prime drinking window, this bottle was still holding its own, maintaining its fruit and some of its terroir character and profile.'

"Dark garnet colored with some slight bricking in color, medium bodied, the black fruit is giving way to notes of earth, spice, leather and hints of vegetable with modest tannins. Time to drink up but this was still pleasant drinking."

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/03/constant-vineyards-diamond-mountain.html

Tonight, this 1998 Constant was drinking very nicely – probably as good as ever, and most assuredly not likely to improve any with further aging, and very likely to start to diminish from this point forward.

Not for the casual feint of heart drinker, son Ryan and I enjoyed it and its ‘maturity’ immensely, and we opened something more ‘youthful’, or ‘approachable’ for Linda and the others.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=43557
 

Bon chance!  

Constant Vineyards Diamond Mountain Napa Cabernet 1998

Constant Vineyards Diamond Mountain Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

We tasted and acquired this wine at the estate high atop Diamond Mountain during our Napa Valley Wine Experience back in 2011.  Our visit to Diamond Mountain estate at the top of the mountain, sitting at over 2100 feet elevation was one of the highlights of our wine tour.

We were hosted by the late Freddie Constant, founder and proprietor (shown right).

The property is among the oldest wineries in the valley with history dating back to the late 1800's.

For a casual Saturday night wine dinner at home, I wanted to open a special bottle and this label certainly brings back fond memories of a magnificent wine experience. Its also a premium label worthy of and befitting such an occasion, even in this somewhat 'off' vintage.

As is customary, I opted for one of the older bottles in our collection of half a dozen vintages of this label. I also selected this 'lesser' vintage as it is most likely the least age-worthy and hence should be consumed before some of the more durable vintage releases.

Constant Vineyards Diamond Mountain Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

Some bottles of this vintage are at or nearing their end of life and need to be consumed. While at the end of or past its prime drinking window, this bottle was still holding its own, maintaining its fruit and some of its terroir character and profile.

Dark garnet colored with some slight bricking in color, medium bodied, the black fruit is giving way to notes of earth, spice, leather and hints of vegetable with modest tannins. Time to drink up but this was still pleasant drinking.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=43557

Del Dotto Sangiovese and Giovanni's Tuscan Reserve for Angelis Italian Dinner

Del Dotto Sangiovese and Giovanni's Tuscan Reserve for Angelis Italian Dinner

Winding down the holiday weekend, we dined at Angeli's Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria. For Italian dining, we took two Del Dotto Sangiovese based wines, Del Dotto Sangiovese and Giovanni's Tuscan Reserve Sangiovese blend. This was a replay of our Sangiovese Italian dinner the day before when we did a Sangiovese and a Sangiovese based blend.

Del Dotto Napa Valley Sangiovese 1998

I wrote yesterday in these pages about Del Dotto Sangiovese. This is the last of our bottles of this label from this era. I've written often about the 1998 Napa vintage releases, how they were panned by the media and pundits as an off vintage, yet they proved to impress and over-perform with pleasurable drinking, even two decades later. The 1998 vintage was overshadowed by the 1997 and 1999, which in retrospect were over-hyped and over-rated. For years, the 1998 has proven to be the top performer for a go-to wine.

Tonight, at twenty years, this 1998 release was holding its own very nicely and showed no signs of diminution from age, whatsoever. This, despite having a partially saturated cork that came apart on removal.

According to Cellartracker, this was the first release of this label. My last tasting note was nine years ago in 2009, the last of nearly a dozen. Interesting that tonight's tasting was consistent with that report:

"Medium bodied, flavorful black cherry, black berry, and currant fruits, with notes of cedar and floral. Getting down to the end of a case and this one definitely more vibrant than earlier tastings. Earlier leather and earthiness gave way to the lively floral and cedar - perhaps age served it well?'

That night I have it a better rating than my previous review a year earlier when I wrote, "Del Dotto's first release of a 100% Sangiovese, grown on the mountains of Calistoga in Napa Valley. Medium bodied, fruity nose with a smoky slightly earthy floral flavor - chunky fruity wine."

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=48662


Del Dotto Giovani's Tuscan Reserve Napa Valley Sangiovese Blend 2002

From my earlier blogpost on this wine. Tonight's tasting was consistent with this earlier experience.

We have about a decade of vintages in our horizontal collection of this label. I've written about Nils Venge and Del Dotto and their venturing into the Italian Sangiovese varietal in Napa Valley. Del Dottto were the featured wine producer of several of our Napa Valley Wine Experiences during the mid to late nineties and after the millenium.

This Sangiovese based blend is named after the Del Dotto's first born son, Giovanni. I remember first discovering this wine and buying it at the Wine Stop wine shop in Burlingame near SFO back in the mid-nineties, and then obtaining more from the producer over the years. I recall the early releases of this label came in 500ml bottles rather than normal 750's.

Del Dotto remain one of our favorite Napa producers whose wines from their early days continue to impress with their longevity and endurance. True to that style, there remains much life in this twelve year old.

This 2002 is a blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon and exhibits dark garnet color, medium to full body with the full forward, complex tight black fruits masked by tones of smoke and charcoal before giving way to aromatic floral and bright tangy black cherry fruits with spicy, firm tannins on the aromatic, lingering finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=289974&searchId=17744031

http://www.deldottovineyards.com/

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2014/11/del-dotto-giovanis-tuscan-reserve.html

Del Dotto Napa Cabernet - The 1998 Vintage

Del Dotto Napa Cabernet 1998 BYOB at Angelis Italian Naperville

Winter storm warning with light snow and plunging temperatures didn't deter us from venturing out for Friday night dinner at Angelis Italian, our favorite (Naperville) neighborhood Trattoria. We took BYOB this 1998 Del Dotto Napa Valley Cabernet.

I have written often in these pages about the '98 vintage of Napa Cabs. It was much maligned by the pundits and was generally regarded as a disappointing vintage. The inferiority of the vintage was exacerbated by the fact it was 'surrounded' by stellar vintages. In fact the run-up to the '98 vintage was a run of four years of highest rated seasons, then '98, then another blockbuster year in '99.  Generally, any vintage of the nineties was a collectable highly rated vintage except '98. So it was that this vintage was the one to avoid, there were many great wines available, and the follow on year added to its demise as a non-collectable, non-respectable wine, a vintage to be avoided.

Here are the vintage reviews from Wine Spectator for the period.

Vintage WS Rating Vintage Review

1999	97		Drink	Tremendous depth, concentration and structure from a cool, moderate year; ageworthy
1998	84		Past peak	Cool, damp year with mostly green, herbal wines marked by gritty tannins; few memorable bottles
1997	99		Drink	Huge crop of ripe, opulent, fleshy, concentrated wines, from near-perfect weather; super in Sonoma, too
1996	96		Drink	A sleeper, with a remarkable number of compelling wines; warm year with fine concentration and depth
1995	97		Drink	Surprisingly fine year, with wines marked by great flavors, balance and structure
1994	97		Drink	A showy year all around; ripe, complex and fleshy, with excellent depth

The Cellartracker community average rating for this wine is 86.7 (points), vs 91.8 for the '97, and 92 for the '99. I say, buy it up, drink it up, and enjoy!

So why is one vintage better than another? The 1998 vintage was a difficult year for growers due to the effects of the El Niño weather pattern that brought unusually cool weather and rain, both early in the spring and sporadically later in the season. This resulted in a fruit set that was small and late. The cooler temperatures continued on into the summer, with a few periods of heat where growers were concerned with sunburn. The result was uneven ripeness, irregular-sized berries, and an overall sluggish ripening. While September brought more suitable, drier, warmer weather, the harvest was delayed into late October, with some wineries finishing as late as November.

There was a silver lining in this clouded vintage with many great values emerging. Here is another testament to refute the prevailing views. There were many sleepers of the vintage, and because of their tainted lineage, they were and still are great bargains with high QPR (Quality Price Ratio). I've written often that I think the '98 has consistently been more approachable, and more pleasant drinking than the much heralded, revered '97, and could be obtained, in many cases (no pun intended), for half the price.

Note, this is not applicable across the region, we hold some Napa Cabs that live up to the deplorable reputation of the vintage, and are indeed the cause, not the effect. But, we're consistently rewarded for having gone against the prevailing views and stocking up on '98's that have proven wonderful wines with respectable aging potential, despite the belief they would be early gratification but short-lived.

Del Dotto produced such a wine in their Napa Valley Cabernet. This wine, even eighteen years later is delightful, while the '97 is just now starting to open and reveal its potential. Up until recently, I would have preferred the 98 over the 97. Their aging curves may only now be intersecting, and perhaps crossing.

My on-line wine journal shows nine reviews of this wine dating back to our tasting of it at the winery in 2000. The earliest reviews rated it 92 points, indicating that early gratification, but half of them over the last six years were ranked 90 points. Only now is this wine starting to show its age as I deducted a point from my last four consistent reviews of this wine.

Shown left, we're tasting Del Dotto Napa Cab with David and Yolanda Del Dotto at our favorite dining spot/table, at Tra Vigne, in St Helena, during our 1999 Napa Wine Experience Tour. 

We hold over a dozen vintages of this wine going back to their inaugural vintage in 1993. We are now starting to appreciate its aging potential as some of the vintages are just emerging to reveal their true potential. I recently wrote the same thing, about such a phenomenon, regarding the great, super premium Dominus, Napa Valley Estate Red Wine, that twenty, even thirty years later, it opens to show its true greatness and potential. While perhaps not Dominus' equal, some of the Del Dotto releases are showing some of the same traits.

Del Dotto Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 

Cellartracker reviewer AlphaWillie wrote of this wine: "This bottle was great and did not have any of the issues that others have reported."

My view: "A sleeper of the vintage, a consistently pleasant, nice drinking wine, belaying and despite its lackluster reviews. Still life left, this was dark garnet colored, medium bodied, still vibrant and lively, nicely balanced, moderately complex black cherry fruits accented by tobacco leaf, leather, tones of tangy spicy oak and modest but pleasant tannins on the finish".

RM 89 points.

My early reviews of this wine attribute to it a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 5% Cab Franc.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=616987

http://www.deldottovineyards.com/