Far Niente Chardonnay highlights seafood dinner at Hugo's Frogbar Naperville

Far Niente Chardonnay highlights seafood dinner at Hugo's Frogbar Naperville - Pan Seared Walleye rivals favorite memorable fresh seafood dishes - a retrospective ...

We joined son Ryan and his family for his birthday celebration dinner. at Hugo's Frogbar in Naperville (IL). 

Hugo’s Frog Bar & Fish House (Chicago) opened its doors in February 1997 in the heart of Chicago’s Gold Coast neighborhood, next to sister restaurant Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse. Since its founding in 1989 the iconic Gibson's Bar & Steakhouse on Rush Street has been the flagship of what has become the Gibson's Restaurant Group. 

Over the years the Gibson's Restaurant Group portfolio has grown - today they own and operate several distinguished concept restaurants throughout Chicagoland and beyond: Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse, Hugo’s Frog Bar & Fish House (three locations including downtown and Naperville), LUXBAR, Quartino Ristorante & Wine Bar, Gibsons Italia, The BOATHOUSE Orlando, Hugo’s Frog Bar & Chop House (on behalf of Rivers Casino), Bazaar Meat Chicago, Bar Mar, Café By The River and Chi Sox Bar & Grill (on behalf of the Chicago White Sox).

For over 20 years, owners Hugo Ralli and Steve Lombardo have strived to become the city’s finest seafood restaurant, Hugo’s, as a destination for premier east and west coast oysters, crudos, frog legs, lobster and seasonal fish and shellfish.

Hugo’s seafood is delivered daily, earning The New York Times to praise “the fish could only be fresher if it swam in by itself.” 

Despite being in the middle of the country, it's not only possible, but customary, to get the daily fresh catch seafood here in numerous seafood restaurants. Notably, besides Hugo's, Chinn's in the northwest suburbs, one of the top 25 grossing restaurants in the US, posts the Bills of Lading airbills in the entrance showing all the fresh seafood flown in overnight from a half dozen or more coasts - Alaska, Hawaii, Florida, New England, Atlantic Coast, California, Seattle and so on. His nephew's seafood restaurant Chinn's Fishery Seafood, here in our hometown Lisle, IL did the same thing before closing at the height of the Covid shut-down.  As such, rather than getting the locale fresh catch from any one market, you have a broad selection from the fresh catch from a half dozen or more markets for a broad selection and variety. 

Over the years, I wrote about Chinn's and the daily specials sourced from around the world in numerous blogposts, that last one being Sunday, March 10, 2019 when I wrote, Nickle & Nickle Chardonnay for Chinns Seafood Dinner.

I was hesitant to feature and highlight the seafood at Hugo's, having had a bad experience there with the Hudson Valley scallops last year, but, tonight they redeemed themselves with a surefire winner with four out of four delectable seafood selections.  

Tonight, we had a broad selection of four fresh seafood selections for our entree choices - Walleye, Salmon, Crab and Sea Bass. Mine was a very pleasant surprise, exceeding my lofty expectations. 

I ordered the Pan Seared Walleye with Grilled Asparagus, Lemon Butter & Toasted Almonds.

I chose this dish, hoping it might be in the meunière style that is my favorite preparation. Many of my posts in these pages commemorate memorable dinners with delectable seafood and wine pairings. Forgive me as I obsess here, reliving several dinners featuring this preparation offering.

Notice the recurring theme of pairing these dishes with a full bodied round Napa Valley Chardonnay, an optimal wine and food pairing for enhancement of both.

My absolute favorite seafood selection was always Petrale Sole, or when available, the seasonally limited Sand Dabs, aka Rex Sole, with white wine, lemon butter meunière sauce. This is primarily only found in the San Francisco Bay and Monterey Bay central coast of California. 

For several years, I commuted regularly to Silicon Valley, during which time this was my go-to regular meal every trip - the best being from Scott's Seafood, adjacent our offices in Palo Alto. Second, was Scoma's in San Francisco on the wharf and across the bay in Sausalito.

Tonight's preparation reminded me of fond memories of that Petrale Sole served in with white wine, lemon butter meunière sauce, a delight and high praise, indeed.

My next favorite fresh seafood selection would be Dover Sole, prepared in a similar way. I have many great memories, and postings in these pages from Il Postino Ristorante Italiano in New York City and their Dover Sole preparation: June 19, 2018 - Cakebread Cellars Napa Chardonnay with Dover Sole at Il Postino NYC, and again ....  June 27, 2018 - Cakebread Cellars Napa Chardonnay with Dover Sole at Il Postino NYC, and again ... April 15, 2018 - Cakebread Cellars Napa Chardonnay at Il Postino NYC - a trifecta! 

And, Dover Sole here locally in Chicago - January 22, 2020 - Post UGCB Dinner with Dover Sole Rosebud Chicago; and again November 9, 2022 - California 2013 Duo BYOB with Dover Sole at Vistro Hinsdale.

Finally, I would say my near favorite seafood dish is Flounder, and once again one of my favorite and memorable eateries for such is in New York - October 24, 2019 - Eataly NYC Flounder Seafood Dinner, and October 23, 2016 -Eataly New York Wine Dine Options.

 

And, another favorite local east coast eatery where we were somewhat regulars over the years -January 28, 2020 - Pouilly-Fuisse, Chiles Valley Cabernet with Sautéed Flounder Francaise at Idylwild Grill in Falls Church, VA.

So it was, tonight's Pan Seared Walleye was reminiscent of those earlier memorable dinners.

As a starter we shared the Beet Salad - Golden & Red Beets, Spring Mix, Shaved Fennel, Orange Segments, Goat Cheese, Candied Hazlenuts with Citrus Vinaigrette.

Our other entree selections - 

Jumbo Lump Crab Cake - a small portion as she ordered the appetizer rather than the larger portion entree.

Pan Roasted Miso Marinated Chilean Sea Bass - Wild mushrooms, sweet peas, & soy reduction

Grilled Faroe Island Salmon - Roasted Sweet Potato Hash, Spinach, & Bacon Jam

For our wine pairing we had a premium Napa Valley Chardonnay, from the same producer that we had just the other evening. 

Far Niente Napa Valley Coombsville Estate Chardonnay 2020

Just the other evening we had at home from our cellar, the Nickel & Nickel Napa Valley Truchard Vineyard Chardonnay, from their single vineyard designated portfolio of labels. Tonight's selection is the flagship, estate bottled appellation bottling from the 'parent' winery producer Far Niente.

Far Niente is one of Napa Valley’s most historic wineries, founded in 1885 by John Benson. It closed during the Prohibition era in 1919. Sixty years later, the property was bought and restored by Gil Nickle who released the first vintage of Far Niente wine in the modern era in 1979 - this estate-bottled Napa Valley Chardonnay. It has been a namesake to the winery for over four decades ever since.

The grapes are grown in the Coombsville AVA, known for its more temperate climate and volcanic ash soils that give Far Niente’s Chardonnay its signature stone and tropical fruit flavors with a crushed rock minerality. The wine does not go through malolactic fermentation in the production process, which preserves the crisper malic acid, providing extra freshness on the palate and extending the wine’s longevity for years of drinking pleasure.

Far Niente Chardonnay is a blend of several superior Napa Valley estate (producer owned) vineyards located in Coombsville, down at the bottom of the valley, a cooler growing region nestled in the rolling countryside and protected by the hills east of the city of Napa. 

Coombsville offers the characteristic climate of Carneros, with less wind, along with deeper, well-drained gravelly loam and volcanic ash soils. The combination of these spectacular vineyards results in the subtle, tropical flavors, complex aromas and uncommon richness that have long been associated with Far Niente Chardonnay.

This is a marriage of fruit from the cooler, bay-influenced vineyards in southern Napa Valley, crafted to combine fragrant citrus blossom aromatics, rich fruit flavors and a silky finish to every occasion.

Winemaker notes - "Richly aromatic with notes of white fig, and citrus blossom, this captivating Chardonnay slowly builds on the palate, progressing from silky notes of honeydew, nectarine and lemon zest to a full finish supported by elegant, toasted oak. Crisp minerality and juicy acidity lift and support the generous fruit and provide the framework for graceful aging. This wine will continue to gain richness and complexity in the bottle and glass."

Pale straw colored, medium bodied, complex expressive rich sprites of minerality, acidity and hazelnut overshadow the subdued honeydew fruit notes. 

RM 90 points. 

This release was awarded 91 Points by Wine Advocate.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4070961

https://farniente.com/

https://twitter.com/farnientewinery

https://www.hugosfrogbar.com/

https://twitter.com/HugosFrog

https://twitter.com/unwindwine

Chicago Getaway Features Favorite Destinations and Activities

Chicago Getaway Features Favorite Destinations and Activities

Continuing our wedding anniversary celebration Chicago getaway, we did several of our favorite sites visits and activities. Yesterday's blogpost discussed our Spectacular Memorable Anniversary Celebration Evening and Dinner at the St Regis Hotel Miru Restaurant Chicago. That was the beginning of our wedding anniversary getaway in our beloved Chicago doing many of our favorite destinations' activities.

Following that fabulous dinner, we attended the theatre production of MJ The Musical at the magnificent James M. Nederlander Theatre.

MJ is the story of pop icon Michael Jackson, one of the most talented, greatest entertainers of all time, and the making of his 1992 Dangerous World Tour. As promoted, the multi Tony Award®-winning new musical was Created by Tony Award®-winning Director/Choreographer Christopher Wheeldon and two-time Pulitzer Prize winner Lynn Nottage. The show, "MJ goes beyond the singular moves and signature sound of the star, offering a rare look at the creative mind and collaborative spirit that catapulted Michael Jackson into legendary status". 

 

The following day, we took the Chicago Architectural Boat Tour, There are several cruise boat operators offering such tours. This one is offered in concert with the Chicago Architecture Center (CAC) whose highly trained and volunteer CAC docents (guides) conduct the detailed narrative of Chicago's numerous architectural styles and the stories of the legendary figures who designed and built the great city.

Chicago’s iconic architecture is showcased aboard TripAdvisor’s #1 rated boat tour of the city and was also voted as one of the Top 10 Boat Tours in North America by USA Today readers for 3 years in a row!

Chicago has a rich architectural history with some of the most incredible architecture offering some of the best skyline views in the world, best seen from the lakeshore, the lakefront and in these instances, from the river.

Above, the Bank of America Tower riverfront, and river walk view with my office overlooking the river in the background.

From the Chicago River, the tour covers fascinating stories behind more than 50 iconic and historic buildings along the Chicago River and Chicago's rich history, how Chicago grew from a small settlement into one of the world's largest cities in less than 100 years. 

Other architectural boat tours are offer by:  

The original Chicago boat tours - Wendella Boats - https://www.wendellaboats.com/ and , https://architecturetourchicago.com/chicago-river-architecture-tour/.

We love the Chicago boat tours. Even though we've done the tour many many times, and I could almost give the tour, as a docent interpreter of the Frank Lloyd Wright architectural tours, myself, we love taking the tour again and again. I know many of the docent guides and the intensive training and preparation they go through to conduct such tours. 

I gave the public tour the day of this post at the Frank Lloyd Wright Home & Studio in Oak Park. Catch me there many Sunday (or Saturday) afternoons in the Summer, Fall and Spring.

Indeed, my (day job until I recently retired) office overlooked the river and had a birds-eye view of the tour boats on the river (shown right).  

This photo, taken from my office, shows the river cruise boats on "bridge day", one of the Wednesdays in the early spring and late fall when the fleet of boats are moved to/from Lake Michigan up/down river to/from their winter storage sites, and the orchestration of opening the draw bridges to let them pass, street by street. 

We then visited another of our favorite Chicago destinations, the magnificent Art Institute of Chicago - Downtown Chicago's #1 Museum. We've been members for decades and visit regularly, most notably during special exhibitions. This was our third visit this summer, to see the Van Gogh special exhibit, once again. 

Founded in 1879, it is one of the oldest and largest art museums in the world. It is sited on Michigan Avenue in Chicago's scenic Grant Park.It houses many iconic works such as Georges Seurat's A Sunday on La Grande Jatte, Pablo Picasso's The Old Guitarist, my favorite, Edward Hopper's Nighthawks, and Grant Wood's American Gothic. Its permanent collection holds nearly 300,000 works of art hosts more than 30 special exhibitions yearly.

The AIC was rated the best museum in the world by TripAdvisor and the only museum in the world to be ranked among the world’s best by TripAdvisor four years in a row. The fabulous collection features many iconic works - many of our favorites by Masters such as Renoir and Claude Monet, and some of our favorites ... Nightlife by Archibald Motley, and Nighthawks by Edward Hopper.

We then headed home to the western suburbs, and stopped enroute in Oak Park at Hemingway's Bistro for dinner. We had reservations downtown but opted to beat the traffic and get out early, choosing Hemingway's despite the fact we dined there just last week, as featured in this blogpost - Lunch at Hemingway's Bistro Oak Park after FLW Tour. 

Continuing our anniversary celebration we started with a Champagne toast with two of our favorite Hemingway features, the Foie Gras with Candied Peaches and Baked Brie Cheese with Almonds and Honey.  

Baked Imported Brie with almonds, Apricot preserves, wildflower honey

Foie Gras du Jour with Caramelized Peaches, candy onions, parsnip puree, balsamic vinaigrette

For our dinner entrees, Linda chose the Crab Cake and I had a new menu entree selection offering, the Veal Chop. 

Lump Crab Cake Apple endive salad, grain mustard sauce

Wisconsin Veal Rib Chop with truffle creme corn, morel sauce

For our wine selection we had from the winelist this Santa Ynez Valley Andrew Murray Vineyards Syrah. The winelist offers six sparkling wines, 22 reds and 22 whites, predominantly French, with a dozen WBTG - Wines-By-The-Glass.

Andrew Murray Vineyards Tous les Jours Santa Ynez Valley Syrah 2020

We saw the Andrew Murray estate vineyards and winery when we visited the Santa Ynez Valley in Santa Barbara County and drove the Foxen Canyon Wine trail. The trail follows the Santa Ynez Valley from Santa Maria down to Los Olivos and is home to numerous continuous estates and vineyards the length of Foxen Canyon Road.  It is home to Fess Parker Winery, Zaca Mesa Winery and Vineyards, and a dozen others, around the corner from Tensley Santa Barbara County Wines - many labels you'll see featured in these pages.

This wine is from the Curtis Estate, approximately 100 acres of uplifted, gently sloping vines, in the heart of the Santa Ynez Valley. The site has gravelly loam soils over a deep bed of ancient maritime sand.  

The vines are 15 to 47 years old divided into several Syrah blocks of various clones. 

This Estate Syrah is derived from several block from multiple clones to give ample fruit, solid structure, and that cool-climate Syrah flavor profile. One clone's small, round, marble-shaped berry has a tight skin, which results in more structured wines. Another Clone is similar, but with a bit more fruit-forward note. The main block was grafted a few years ago onto Viognier vines and has quickly become a favorite block of Syrah and results in a very delicious and complex wine. 

Each fermentation lot is kept separate throughout the entire 18 months élevage after being barreled down in a mix of new and 1–4-year-old French oak barrels. The Estate Syrah is always crafted from the best of these barrels each vintage. 

Winemaker notes - "The 2020 vintage is nearly opaque in the glass with a blue/black core and bright red-black at the rim. The primary fruits are cherry and raspberry, balanced by a dusting of white pepper with a lovely and fully integrated toasty oak finish from the nearly 25% new French oak. The mid-palate is energetic and massive, while the finish is rich and long. Notes of Wild Raspberry Jam, Black Cherry, Purple Flowers, Crispy Bacon, Cinnamon Stick, and Toasty Oak.

https://www.andrewmurrayvineyards.com/product/2020-SYRAH-ESTATE-GROWN

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4140392

http://hemmingways-bistro.com/

Domaines Ott Château de Selle Côtes de Provence Mourvedre Blend Rose' 2020

 Domaines Ott Château de Selle Côtes de Provence Cru Classe' Mourvedre Blend Rose' 2020

We discovered and experienced this wine as part to the Premium Wine Pairing at Three Michelin Star Alinea restaurant earlier in the year. The entire dinner and wine flight are featured in this blogpost - Magnificent Dinner at Alinea Kitchen Table. From that experience, son Ryan acquired this and brought to our Memorial Day afternoon cook-out dinner on the deck for casual summer sipping. 

The Ott family own and manage three estates in two appellations in the wine growing region of Provence that sits along the Mediterranean coast of France, bordered by the Rhone River to the west and the Cote d’Azur on the east. The three estates combined produce a somewhat miniscule 800,000 bottles each year. 

The family business is managed by cousins Christian and Jean-François Ott. In 2004, Domaines Ott joined Louis Roederer and its extensive selection of wine craftsmen.  Jean-François Ott and his team continues "the unique savoir-faire of four generations of artisan-vignerons in the complete respect of nature. Inspired by an unchanged mission since the creation of the Domaines by Marcel Ott in 1896, they have constantly pursued their unique and free vision of the expression of the terroirs of Provence." 

Founder Marcel Ott, a graduate in agricultural engineering from Alsace, toured France’s vineyards in search of the perfect estate. At the time, phylloxera had destroyed much of the region’s vineyards and nearly crippled the wine industry. Hence, land was inexpensive since many of the vineyards would need replanting. Undeterred, Ott found a site, Chateau de Selle in 1912. After acquiring the estate and completely renovating it, he reconstructed and replanted the vineyards. His passion and determination led to the acquisition of two more estates and the beginning of the Domaines Ott legacy.

Family Ott acquired Château Romassan in 1956. They then spent the next thirty years re-developing the property, gaining experience with the old Château Romassan to produce great wines typical of the Bandol AOC appellation. They entirely replanted the estate with noble grape varieties in small plots that were reorganized and leveled to create terraced vineyards. The superb 18th-century building overlooking the vineyard was also completely renovated. 

Château Romassan sits at the foot of the hilltop village Le Castellet, a few miles north of the City of and Bay of Bandol in the south of France. This estate is located in the west of the Var department, in the heart of the celebrated Bandol winemaking region. The Mediterranean climate and the poor limestone and sandstone soils produce deep savory wines.  

 We drove through the region and the area vineyards during our Rhone Wine Experience in 2019.

Mourvèdre is the region's and estate’s primary grape variety. Indigenous to the area, it is particularly suited to the arid climate and austere soil. Its calm temperament is revealed in the strength of its harmonies, its robust structure and its staying power both on the palate and in the cellar. Producer Otts rely on mourvèdre for the bulk of their rosé (this one includes 30 percent cinsault and 15 percent grenache). 

Domaines Ott Château de Selle Côtes de Provence Cru Classe Mourvedre Blend Rose' 2020

The 2020 Bandol Rose Château de Selle is mainly Mourvèdre (60%) with smaller proportions of Cinsault (20%), and Grenache (20%). Many vintages also contain small amounts of Syrah. The vines have an average age of 25 years across the 180 acres of the estate. The vines draw their personality from the vineyard’s unique and distinguished soil. Chalk, sandstone and marl underlain with gravel, this singular land with its sun-drenched and particularly dry micro-climate produces sophisticated and very powerful wines.

This is blended and bottled in the new Château de Selle cellar, where part of the winery is exclusively devoted to its production. The entire process is controlled from blending to through storage ensuring the highest achievable quality expected of these wines.

Winemaker Notes - "Its pale, ethereal pink color tinted with gold or orange, releases a bouquet of citrus fruits and white orchard flowers. On the palate, the immediate effect is lively and bright, revealing notes of pink grapefruit, fleshy fruit and, once the wine has had a chance to breathe, hints of fruit tart. The finish is complex and lasting.'

"This 2020 reveals a brilliant light peach hue and a lovely aromatic intensity. The nose is fresh and fruity with hints of peach and grapefruit. After aeration, aromas of white flesh fruits start to emerge and are set off by some fine spicy notes. The palate is complex and luscious, buoyed by flavours of citrus and wild peaches. A touch of acidity on the finish gives this big and refined wine a pleasant persistence."

The 2021 was awarded 96 points by Wine & Spirits. This 2020 was awarded 93 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, Vinous and Wine Enthusiast.

Opaque pink and light copper colored, medium bodied, firm and structured, complex, bright crisp core of peach, mineral and citrus flavors with a backbone of notes of wet stone and smokey roasted nuts, turning to what Josh Reynolds of Vinous refers to as "a repeating mineral note and a late hint of tarragon", and what Robert Parker describes as "zesty-briny and stony on the finish" in their reviews of the '21. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3956435

https://www.domaines-ott.com/en

UGCB 2020 Vintage Release Tour Chicago 2023

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) North American 2020 Vintage Release Tour Chicago Preview Tasting 2023 

The UGC Bordeaux (Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB)), annual release tour visited Chicago this week unveiling/showcasing their 2020 vintage release wines. The Union is the association of 130 members of the top premier estates from the most prestigious Bordeaux appellations. 

This year's North American tour visited Toronto, New York, Washington DC, Chicago, LA , Seattle and San Francisco. 

As in previous years, members of our 'Pour Boys' wine group (left) helped conduct the event in Chicago. 

This year, after a Covid disrupted alternate site last year at Chicago Union Station Grand Hall, which actually was delayed to June, as in years past, returned to the Drake Hotel in the magnificent grand Gold Coast Ballroom (shown below). 

The Pour Boys serve as volunteers, working with the hosts Mike Wangbickler, Kat and the Balzac Communications team, and the UGCB Bordeaux events team of Chloe Morvan and Marie Damouseau.

We help prepare the room and the wines, checking in trade registrants, and standing in for producers who faced travel or other disruptions, presenting and pouring their wines. 

We start early in the day unpacking and distributing the wines, carefully setting up each wine station for the arrival of the producers' and their representatives for presenting and pouring the wine during the afternoon session.

Several times over the years, several producers or their representatives were delayed in travel or had other disruptions and we were called in to service to pour their wines, hence we earned our moniker, the 'Pour Boys'.  This was our fourteenth year working this gala annual event.

As usual, close to a hundred producers were represented at the event that was attended by over five hundred members of the trade, merchants, hospitality and media.

As is their custom in the third week of January, this annual roadshow is a marathon trek across North America by the producers and their representatives offering wine professionals and oenophiles the chance to meet the Bordeaux principles, winemakers and commercial directors. 

As I've written in previous years, we appreciate the investment in time and effort expended by the producers and their brand ambassadors to visit Chicago. It provides a wonderful opportunity to meet them firsthand and discuss their perspectives on their brand, approach to crafting their style, their history, businesses, and their vintages including, of course, the current release.

Overcast skies and early morning snow
through windows of Gold Coast Ballroom

As collectors and holders of a not-insignificant collection of Bordeaux wines dating back four decades, we Pour Boys hold as many as several dozen or more vintages of some of these labels. Meeting the owners, family members, producer / winemaker / representatives of these great Chateaux is a great privilege and offers a collector the chance to learn more about their investment and wines. 

As such, I tend to focus on and taste those wines that I know well and hold verticals (multiple vintages of the same label), of which my wine buddies and I have holdings.  Shown left, Chateau Lynch Bages and Ormes de Pez.  

The new Lynch Bages winery was under construction during our visit in 2019. It is now open and in production with this 2020 release being the first vintage produced in the new state of the art facility. 

Marking four centuries of history and the culmination of four years’ hard work, the 2020 vintage, the first in the renovated cellars is commemorated in a new label design for the vintage.

The new cellars and vat room, were designed by architect Chien Chung Pei to put emphasis on natural light, functionality and innovative technologies. As such a light iridescent shadow suggesting the new building is set on the architectural architecture, while the vintage is handwritten by Chien Chung Pei to commemorate the collaboration.

Despite the inclement weather, this years event was well attended to a full house (shown below).

Earlier UGCB and related events are featured in earlier unwindwine blogposts.

Grand Cru Bordeaux 2019 Vintage Release Tour Chicago

 UGCB 2017 Release Tour Chicago

After working to set up the event, register attendees and fill in for late arriving producers' due to travel delays, we were able to partake of the release tasting. 

As usual, we focused on the producers that we own and collect, with particular interest in those that we visited during our last trip to Bordeaux, as well as those we are targeting for our next or futures visits to the region.

The 2020 vintage is another great year for Bordeaux. The year opened with a mild start triggering an early bud break and even flowering thanks to a warm and dry month of May. Early June brought frequent rainfall which provided reserves of water during nearly two-month period of drought which began from mid-June, continuing well into August.

While it was very warm in the first part of the year, significantly warmer than 2018 or 2019, the heart of the summer however was marginally cooler than those excessively hot years. Taken as a whole, 2020 was as warm as the baking 2018, but not as intensely hot during the summer.

By early August, a welcome flurry of rain showers swept over the region breaking the prolonged period of drought before entering a dry and sunny September, which pushed the grapes into their final period of ripening. The earlier ripening Merlot benefited from the superb conditions of an early September harvest.

Mid-September light rain falls provided a final infusion of freshness to the Cabernet grapes. Only those with late ripening plots of Cabernet Sauvignon were left in a rush to bring them in in before the concerning forecast pertaining to storm Alex at the beginning of October.

The overall harvesting conditions of 2020 were also perfectly suited for the earlier ripening Merlot grape, while the Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon vines picked towards the end of September when warm winds imposed an evaporation effect on the grapes, resulting in unusually small berries with high levels of tannins. This translated into wines with deep colors, very concentrated flavors, and abundant, well-ripened, fine-grained tannins.

Anne-Francoise Quie Château Rauzan-Gassies
Lise Latrille - Château Prieure Lichine

For the white wines of 2020, the effects of the intense summer heat was compensated by the moisture reserves from the spring showers, producing dry whites which were less aromatic than in 2019, but with plenty of complexity and vibrant acidity. 

Although the grapes had reached a perfect level of ripeness by early September, the crucial rain showers did not arrive until October, which meant that only the most patient and diligent growers were rewarded by the small harvesting window with lower levels of wine produced.

James Suckling stated, “The 2020 vintage is another great year for Bordeaux, marking a rare trilogy of excellent vintages that produced wines at the same or very close quality level across the board from great named chateaux to lesser-known estates.” 

Jancis Robinson decreed, “Some stunning wines have been produced in 2020. On the Left Bank, they tend to be made by producers who can afford to be extremely selective in their final blends. There is a host of very successful wines on the Merlot-dominated Right Bank too. I have found myself falling back in love with St-Émilion” thanks to a continuing trend where “wines are so much fresher and more expressive than they used to be.” 

Jane Anson, reporting for Decanter says, ‘I would say 2018 is the most exuberant, 2020 the most structured and concentrated, while 2019 combines both and for me is the strongest of the three – certainly the most consistent.’ She also points out that ‘Yields overall were around 25% lower than in 2019, particularly with Cabernet Sauvignon but also Cabernet Franc in many cases."

Lilian Barton-Sartorius - Châteaux
Leoville and Langoa Barton

The event is sponsored by the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, (UGCB) and is hosted and orchestrated by Balzac Communications, boutique wine marketing and communications consultancy firm in Napa, under the leadership of Mike Wangbickler.

As is the custom, the afternoon session is for the benefit of the press and trade and wine professionals, and in Chicago, the evening session in Chicago was hosted by merchant partner Binny's Beverage Depot, the Chicago-land wine superstore, offering tickets to the evening session to their valued customers and the public. This year, over four hundred collectors and vinophiles registered for the even. 

My perspective was that many of the wines showed better this year being more approachable at this early age with expressive forward and full fruits – especially the right bank Merlot based wines. 

One of my standout favorites of the tasting was the Chateau Canon which was especially approachable with bright vibrant fruits and a delicious sweetness.

From a branding perspective, in addition to Lynch Bages above, a couple other new special bottling or new labels emerged.

Château Léoville Poyferré presented a striking gold painted bottle with embossed molded emblem at the top commemorating their anniversary vintage. 2020 marks the symbolic centennial vintage for the Cuvelier Family, the centennial anniversary of their ownership of this Second Grand Cru Classé of Saint-Julien. 

And, for Sara Lecompte Cuvelier, fourth generation to be at the helm of the domain, this historic vintage is encapsulated in a special bottle to commemorate this significant milestone.

The unique bottle inlaid with gold, the details of which 'pay tribute to the enduring strength of Léoville Poyferré and its multifaceted terroir'. 

 

Our visit to and tour of Château Léoville Poyferré was one of the highlights of our visit to the region in 2019.

 

Another new branding approach is Château Siran who introduce in the post Covid era an artist label series featuring artwork that will be updated with each vintage release. 

The 2020 vintage marks the return of the family tradition of Château Siran’s illustrated labels with a collaboration with Federica Matta, a Franco-Chilean artist 'sensitive to the natural elements and the culture of wine'. 

Producers Sevrine and Edouard Miailhe wanted to memorialize the pandemic that paralysed the world in 2020. They chose a theme of an anti-Covid allegory recognizing the olfactory qualities together with the beneficial properties of red wines with the new label's bright colors, celebrating "the joy of living and the happiness of sharing". 

Charlotte Burckhard showing
new Chateau Siran label branding

'Pour Boys' Tom C, me, Ernie and Lyle with
UGCB Ambassadors Chloe Morvan and
Marie Damouseau

Anne-Francoise Quie Château Rauzan-Gassies
with enthusiastic patron

Earlier UGCB and related events are featured in earlier unwindwine blogposts.

https://twitter.com/ugcbwines 

@ugcbwines

Villa Andretti Chardonnay - Tensley Colson Canyon Syrah

Villa Andretti Chardonnay - Tensley Colson Canyon Syrah with grilled surf and turf

For special end of the week dine-in with friend Kay Z, the ladies were in a festive mood so Linda prepared grilled strip steaks and lobster tails. I pulled from the cellar two appropriate wines to accompany the surf and turf entrees. 

To celebrate our shared Hoosier heritage, with Kay sharing some of her memorable Hoosier experiences, I pulled our last remaining bottle of Villa Andretti California Chardonnay with the lobster. Kay shared stories of working the Indy 500 race at the track for the local TV station and engaging with members of the Andretti racing team many years ago, early in her career. 

We discovered and acquired this wine at the Villa Andretti Winery, from famed Indy racing driver Mario Andretti, in southeast Napa Valley during our Napa Wine Experience in 2018. We discovered the Andretti estate while visiting the Lewis Cellars winery which is across the road, during our Napa Wine Experience in 2017.

Villa Andretti California Chardonnay 2017 

This is the basic Chardonnay in the broad Andretti portfolio and was a nice complement to the grilled lobster tails.

Golden butter colored, medium bodied, notes of green apple, pear and citrus, with hints of peach on a modest finish.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3638729

https://andrettiwinery.com/ 

@AndrettiWine

We then moved to the main course, grilled strip steaks. While I would favor a Bordeaux varietal wine such as a Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, Linda wanted her favored profile wine, a big bold forward hearty Shiraz/Syrah. 

Hence, I pulled from the cellar, perhaps the current best drinking bottle meeting this profile, this Colson Canyon Syrah from Tensley Wines.  

We discovered and acquired this and several other Tensley Santa Barbara County Wines, that I wrote about here, and replay below, during our Santa Barbara County Wine Experience earlier this year. This was the standout of that tasting and best represents the style that we love.

Tensley Colson Canyon Vineyard Santa Barbara County Syrah 2020

Winemaker Notes: "Everything we farm in house is something very special to us. This site is one of the most unique and special places in the world of wine. High (1400 elevation) in the hills north of the Santa Maria Valley with some of the most iron-laced soils I have seen in Santa Barbara County.'

"This wine always delivers juicy round seamless edges. This is the only wine we add some new French oak, as its weight and power integrates with the oak, adding a bit of toasty buttery complexity. Colson Canyon is such a beautiful example of fruit forward juicy California Syrah. Open it anytime and enjoy its blueberry, cassis and chocolate nuances or leave it 20 years and enjoy its leathery, almondy notes. It does not really matter when you open it, it will deliver."

1925 Cases Produced

This was awarded 94-96 points by Jeb Dunnuck and 96 points by Wine Advocate.

Might I consider this the Tensley 'flagship'? This reminded me of a couple other memorable highly rated Syrahs, Kongsgaard Carneros Hudson Vineyard and Penfolds Grange. Both are flawless, seamless, and notable for their smooth, polished, balanced profile. While not to that level of perfection perhaps, this is close and evokes the same experience. This bottle was from the Wine Club allocation we received from that visit. We're anxiously awaiting our fall release shipment that we're told was shipped this week.

Dark inky purple colored, full bodied, thick concentrated unctuous juicy black and blue fruits with layers of cassis and chocolate nuances with notes of oak, leather and tobacco on a tongue coating lingering finish. 

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4090797

https://tensleywines.com/ 

@tensleywine