Italian wine duo for baked Lasagna dinner

Italian wine duo for baked Lasagna dinner

We were invited to neighbors Richard and Adessa’s for dinner of baked lasagna, salad and garlic bread. We took a cheese plate of artisan cheeses with fresh pear and from our cellar a duo of Italian wines, a white and a red.

I wrote recently about a red wine we acquired from the WSJ - Wall Street Journal wine club. This was the other wine included in that offer which I was eager to try. 

It’s always caveat emptor when sampling wines from one of these sources. Both of these labels exceeded our expectations offering wonderful wines at tremendous QPR - Quality Price Ratio value. 

With the cheese and fruit starter course we enjoyed a traditional Italian Piedmont Moscato - perfect for a hot summer evening. 

Albino Rocca Rosso di Rocca Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo 2021

This was a perfect pairing with the delicious baked lasagna - amplifying the enjoyment of both the food and the wine!

This is from the Albino Rocca Barbaresco vineyards and winery family owned and operated over four generations dating back to the 1940's, when Giacomo Rocca began bottling wine in demijohns. In the 1960's, his son, the proprietors’ grandfather, Albino, expanded the vineyard holdings, eventually operating by his son Angelo Rocca, father of the current generation.

The family has vines in some of the most prestigious Crus of Barbaresco: Ronchi, Ovello, Montersino and Cottà. Albino Rocco produce a dozen labels all sourced from their four estate vineyards located in the most noble areas of production of Barbaresco DOCG, which consist of Nebbiolo and also include Barbera, Dolcetto, Cortese, Chardonnay and Moscato.

They strive to produce the highest quality wines that express the characteristics, purity and elegance that are so recognizably linked with the terrior of their estate.

While their winemaking activities started in the 1940’s, they had previous experience in viticulture starting from the nineteenth century. The family’s vineyard area is almost 50 acres, located in three out of the four productive communes; Barbaresco, Neive, and San Rocco Seno d’Elvio (Alba) as well as various cultivated vines: primarily Nebbiolo, then Barbera, Dolcetto, Cortese, Moscato, and Chardonnay.

This label is sourced from a vineyard in Magliano Alfieri, a municipality on the left side of the river Tanaro, which gave birth to this new version of Nebbiolo, acquired by the family in 2016, with current production wines planted between 1967 and 2002. 

Nebbiolo is the native varietal synonymous with and originated in Piedmont in Italy, where it remains the region's most important red grape. Its name comes from the Italian word nebbia, which means fog, a feature of the hills where the grape traditionally grows. Nebbiolo is thick-skinned, early-budding and late-ripening; it needs long periods of sunshine to ripen fully and is often planted on south- or southwest-facing hillsides for maximum exposure. The best examples come from calcareous marl vineyards, with some planted in sandy soils.

The result was a highly fragrant red wine, with young fruit and flower aromas, fresh flavors that are ready to enjoy.

This is a blend of  Nebbiolo (97%) augmented with a slight bit of Cabernet Franc (3%) which adds some color, structure and flavors of spice. 

Average annual production is about 9000 bottles.

Bright ruby red colored, light-medium bodied, vibrant aromas and flavors of juicy ripe red berry, cherry and pomegranate fruits with floral and subtle earth tones, balanced by vibrant acidity and ultra-fine tannins, with a refreshing lingering finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4383037

https://www.albinorocca.com/

La Spinetta (Rivetti) Cà di Pian Barbera d'Asti Superiore with Spaghetti

La Spinetta (Rivetti) Cà di Pian Barbera d'Asti Superiore with Spaghetti

Following the sensational tasting of the Pin La Spinetta (Rivetti) last week, as featured in this blogpost, Rivetti Pin La Spinetta Castagnole Monferrato with Spaghetti, I went to Binny's, our beverage superstore to see if by chance there was any more available to replace the bottle we drank. Sadly, they don't have any or even see it in distribution. I acquired the bottles in our cellar back in 2010 so its not surprising it may no longer be available. The only La Spinetta (Rivetti) label they had in inventory was this one, so I picked up a bottle to try. 

I wrote about the broad Rivetti La Spinetta history and portfolio in that blogpost.

La Spinetta was founded by Giuseppe Rivetti, nicknamed ‘Pin’, and his wife, Lidia in the 1960's. Their children Carlo, Bruno, Giorgio, and Giovanna took over the winery reins in the 1970's, implementing the teachings of their parents, acting on their great respect for the territory, the indigenous vines and the Piedmontese land.

In 1977 the children, with the support of their parents, began the first production of their Moscatos, Bricco Quaglia and Biancospino. These would be some of the first single-cru Moscato to be produced in Italy.

With the success of the Moscato business, they expanded to also focus on red grapes starting with this Barbera Ca di Pian, their first red label in 1985. 

It is 100% Barbera sourced from 74 acres of vineyards in the towns of Castagnole delle Lanze (Piani), Costigliole d’Asti and Montegrosso d’Asti. The age of the vines ranges from six to twenty to forty years.

Today, the portfolio has expanded to over a dozen red labels from Piedmont and also Tuscany that range from a number of wonderful varietals that should be reserved for special occasions, and several, like this one, that provide affordable every day drinking with good QPR - quality/price ratio - typically priced in the $20 to $30 range.  

La Spinetta (Rivetti) Barbera d'Asti Superiore Cà di Pian DOCG 2020

Like our La Spinetta Rivetti earlier tasting, Linda again prepared spaghetti with tangy hearty bolognese sauce to pair with this wine. 

From Asti, Piedmont, Italy - this intensely flavored wine shows us why Giorgio Rivetti is considered a modern master of the Piedmont.

Even at this pricepoint, this label is classified DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), the highest quality classification designation for Italian wines. The rules for DOCG are stricter than DOC, yields must be lower and the wines must be aged in barrels longer. Also, DOCG requires the wines be submitted for technical analysis and tasted for approval by a government committee before they can be sold as DOCG wines. 

Interesting too, DOCG wines even have a numbered, government seal across the neck of the bottle to help prevent counterfeiting (shown below right).

Also, even at this more modest pricepoint, this is packaged in a heavier more substantial bottle as well. 

Winemaker notes - Cà di Pian is a Barbera with an unmistakable character representing the distinctive terror of the Piedmont. There are intense aromas of blackberry and morello cherries. This wine is truly captivating, yet it remains fresh and extremely versatile.

Maceration and alcoholic fermentation in temperature-controlled vats for an average period of 14-15 days. Malolactic fermentation was done in used (2nd and 3rd passage) French oak barrels, followed by 12 months of aging. Finally, bottle-aged for approximately 3 months.

Today, average annual production is nearly 70.000 bottles.

A nice pizza or pasta wine for simple every day sipping. Bright ruby colored, medium bodied, primarily earthy, dark and tannic as with many barbera wines, but the fruit does come through, expressive rich dark berry fruits with accents of creosote, cassis, cherry liqueur and toasty oak with a moderate long rich finish. 

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4192221

http://www.la-spinetta.com/

@LaSpinettaItaly

Father Son World Cup wine tasting

Father Son World Cup meet up and leftovers wine tasting 

Son Ryan came over to watch the USA-England soccer match and brought a couple wines left from their Thanksgiving holiday feast. I served up the remains of one of our's, a favorite wine left over from our dinner the other night. 

What great fun it is to share our wine interests together and experience the convergence of our respective cellar collections in producers' labels such as this one.  We've both have amassed a collection of Fantesca Napa Valley Spring Mountain District wines - Ryan most recently, collecting their ultra-premium special labels, while our collection goes back to the inaugural release and the ensuing early years. 

We first met producers Dwayne and Susan Hoff when they acquired the Spring Mountain property in St Helena in February 2004 and Fantesca was founded. Dwayne visited us in Chicago during one of his early promotion tours for the 2004 release of Fantesca Cabernet in 2006.

We tasted and acquired our early releases of this producer when we visited the Fantesca Estate and Winery on Spring Mountain in Napa Valley during our Napa Wine Experiences. We visited Fantesca during our Napa Valley Spring Mountain Experience in the autumn of 2009, and earlier during our Napa Wine Experience 2007, and again in 2011.

 We hold a vertical collection of more than a dozen vintages of Fantesca with their classy etched bottles, one of our favorites that we hold for special occasions and for special gifts.

 

In early 2008, Fantesca signed on veteran winemaker Heidi Peterson Barrett, whose Napa Valley resume includes winemaking stints at Screaming Eagle, Dalla Valle, and her own La Sirena.

 

Fantesca Estate and Winery Napa Valley "All Great Things - Honor" 2011 

 

This label "All Great Things" is Heidi Barret's annual Bordeaux blend produced for Fantesca - a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc.  

 

This is the third release of the series, which is inspired by the words of Winston Churchill:  “All great things are simple, and many can be expressed in a single word: freedom, justice, honor, duty, mercy, hope.”  

 

Each vintage release commemorates one of those notable words from the legendary Churchill quote - freedom (2015), justice (2016), honor (2011, 2017), duty (2012, 2018), mercy (2013), and hope (2014) - this one christened the (first) "Honor" release.

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, layers of firm bright black fruits with notes of dusty cedar, aged leather and spice, with notes of mocha chocolate and plum, with moderate tannins on the finish.

 

RM 92 points.  

 

https://www.cellartracker.com/notes.asp?iWine=2989151

 

http://www.fantesca.com

 

@FantescaWine -  https://twitter.com/FantescaWine

 

Boroli Brunella Barolo 2015 

Ryan then opened this vintage Barolo from Achille Boroli.

The Boroli family roots in Piedmont date back to as early as 1831. The family were entrepreneurs in the publishing business until Silvano and Elena Boroli set out to reconnect with venturing into winemaking business in 1997. 

The Baroli estate vineyards are located in the heart of Barolo in the towns Castiglione Falletto (Cascina La Brunella) and Barolo (Borgata Cerequio). All Barolo production and refinement takes place in the wine-making and ageing wineries at Cascina La Brunella, in the town of Castiglione Falletto. 

As an integration of the historic Cascina La Brunella, a new winery was built and opened in 2006, with all the modern building technologies.

Silvano and Elena Boroli managed the company 2012 when their son, Achille, stepped in to run the wine-growing and production business.

Achille Boroli grew up in the wine business and experienced every facet of winemaking shadowing the family's winery winemaker - tending to the grapes, blending the wines, tasting barrel samples - all aspects of  vineyard management and winemaking techniques. 

With the 2012 vintage, Achilles set upon to aim for the highest quality in Barolo achievable from their estate, applying the most meticulous methods in the vineyards and winery - cutting production levels, updating the winemaking technology, applying low intervention methods to raise the quality of the Boroli wines to the highest level, on par with the finest Barolo wines.

 

Boroli Brunella Piedmont Barolo 2015 

 

Barolo Brunella is 100% Nebbiolo, sourced from a single 7 acre estate vineyard in the territory of Castiglione Falletto, situated at the extreme western point of the ridge of Villero. It has vines with an average age of vines 40 years, was aged in large oak barrels (1000-1500L) for 18 months, and settled at least 1 year in bottle before release. It was first released in 2013.

 

Winemaker Notes for the 2015 release: "A clear ruby red color, with very light orange reflections. A net aroma in which licorice stands out at first, immediately followed by a fruity scent; the aroma makes you scent it again and again to discover different and pleasant facets. The fruity aroma magnificently prevails after a few minutes in the glass. A very enveloping, fresh and harmonious taste, with a delicate and tasty presence of wood. A long lasting taste that invites to sip it slowly again and again."

 

This release was awarded 93 points by James Suckling.

Bright ruby colour, medium bodied, elegant, smooth and polished fresh plum and cherry berry fruits with hints of licorice, mocha, fresh cloves and baking spices, with velvety mouthfeel with a persistent lingering soft sweet oak laced tannin finish. 

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3652155

  

https://www.boroli.it/en/

 

https://twitter.com/borolivini  

@borolivini

 

Piazza Del Dotto Napa Valley Sangiovese 2016 

I then opened this Sangiovese left over from our dinner earlier in the week that we opened with Linda's spaghetti and meatballs. This has become our favorite go-to wines for Italian dining. I wrote in detail about Del Dotto Napa Valley wines and their history producing Sangiovese in an earlier blogpost.

 

  We tasted and acquired this wine at the Piazza Winery Delicacies Wine and Food Tasting Experience during our Napa Valley Wine Experience 2018. We had previously tasted and acquired the 2015 release a year earlier at our Napa Valley Del Dotto Estate Cave Tour and Barrel Tasting in 2017. 

This is the last bottle of a couple of cases of this label we acquired during those visits. We've been trying to obtain more of this label and haven't seen it available on the Del Dotto shopping site or in the marketplace. We're hoping to find more. 

As we have written in recent tasting reviews of wine acquired during this Estate visit, this label is from Piazza Del Dotto, Del Dotto's newest project, a new winery south on St Helena Highway featuring an Italian-inspired “barchessa,” or barn, magnificently appointed with tasting rooms and dining areas. It is surrounded by fountain gardens with al fresco tasting cabanas, vegetable gardens, 17^th century fountains and an outdoor barn with turkeys, peacocks, pheasants and doves. There are wine caves as well, all surrounded by 8.5 acres of cabernet sauvignon vineyards.

This is Estate grown fruit, I believe from the Rutherford vineyards that surround the Venetian Estate Winery & Caves, the site for the Del Dotto cave tours and barrel tastings.

This was ruby colored medium full bodied, delicious sweet ripe raspberry fruits accented by notes of sweet vanilla, cedar, tobacco and almond with supple smooth silky tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3038663

http://www.deldottovineyards.com/ 

 

https://twitter.com/DelDottoWine

 

@DelDottoWine

Paitin Serraboella Barbaresco

Paitin Serraboella Barbaresco Nebbiolo 2017 BYOB at Angeli's Italian

Midweek dinner, we dined at Angelis Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria. I took from our cellar this Italian Barbaresco Nebiollo for the occasion, to pair with our Italian cuisine. I ordered the basic classic Spaghetti pasta with Bolognese meat sauce with Italian meatball and sausage.

The Paitin Pasquero-Elia estate in the Barbaresco appellation is in the Piedmont region of northwestern Italy between Turin and Genoa. It has been in the family for 8 generations, since 1893, and the Grand Cru vineyard (MGA) of Serraboella is one of the traditional expressions of Neive’s Barbaresco.

Bricco di Neive is located 2 miles South-east of the Commune of Neive, nestled in the picturesque hillside area some 1.000 feet above sea level. The winery started in 1796, when Benedetto Elia purchased 5 acres of vineyard in Bricco di Neive, planted in Nebbiolo and Barbera. Thirty years later he purchased the house, the cellar and 5 more acres of Nebbiolo.

For years, the wines were sold in barrels. In 1890, his nephew, Giuseppe, built the “new” section of the winery, started in the 15th century, and bottled the first Barbaresco, Nebbiolo and Barbera wines.

In 1948, Secondo Pasquero Elia, took over the winery, and started to replant the vineyards. The vineyard planted in 1953 produces the flag ship Barbaresco label, Vecchie Vigne Riserva. 

In the 1980’s, Secondo’s sons, Giovanni and Silvano, joined the winery. In 1994, they bought a small estate in Alba where the Nebbiolo d’Alba Ca Veja is produced. At this location, they also run a Bed & Breakfast with 6 apartments in a 16th century farmhouse.

Today, they produce a dozen vineyard specific designated labels, all estate grown representing, the terroir of the region and the specific vineyard.

The Serraboella vineyards and label is the most famous cru in the Southern Neive. They were planted in 1980-1995. Up to 1999, these fruits were integrated into the Barbaresco Sorì Paitin, but since then they are harvested and vinified as this Serraboella vineyard designated label. 

Two Barbaresco vineyards contribute to this wine. The Serreboalla vineyards sit on a long hill exposed to West, and gently bends towards the South where it gets steeper. The steepest and the warmest side Barbaresco has a unique expression of powerful but elegant texture. The ‘d Tourun vineyard shares a border with the Bricco and exhibits mineral and rough character. The Schiena d’Ernestin vineyard is more sheltered position and shows more fine and elegant character. 

Paitin di Pasquero-Elia Barbaresco Serraboella Nebbiolo 2017

This is 100% Nebbiolo grape varietal all vinified, subject to pressing and destemming then fermented and macerated from 3 to 6 weeks in stainless steel. At the end of the winter it is moved into wood barrels where it rests for around 1 year and a half to 2 years  in barrels between 25 to 50 hectoliters, made of Slavonian and Austrian oak with an age of 15 years.

Winemaker Notes for this 2017 release: "Soft, open-knit and gracious. Succulent red cherry, mint, white pepper and chalk make a positive first impression. Hints of rose petal, mint and cinnamon blend into the creamy finish."

It was awarded 95 points by James Suckling and 93 points by Wine Spectator.

James Suckling calls it a vivid, solid Barbaresco,  extremely flavorful and powerful with intense density of fruit and ripe tannins. It’s full-bodied with lots of plums and chocolate with some walnuts and bark.

Wine Spectator said it will be best from 2023 through 2040.

 

Perhaps we drank this too young but I don't believe so. I suspect it is at the apex of its drinking profile even though it may be at this level for another decade or more. We have at least one more bottle so we'll take that advise and set it aside for some period before we're tempted to consume it. 

 

We're accustomed to bold, large, forward concentrated  wines with more body, structure and density. This was a much more subdued, moderate, lighter and more delicate, more akin to the style and character of a Pinot Noir than a Bordeaux or Rhone varietal. 

 

This was a nice accompaniment to our pasta and red sauces, nicely balanced and complementary, but much more subdued and modest than our typical wine selections.

 

Ruby colored, light medium bodied, balanced and polished, black berry and cherry fruits are accented by notes of tar and black tea with hints of white pepper, smoke and menthol, with soft but gripping tannins on the finish. 

 

RM 91 points.

 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3603308

 

https://www.paitin.it/en/

 

http://www.angeliscatering.com/

 

Italian Barolo for Italian Cuisine

Italian Barolo for Italian Cuisine 

We dined with two of our boys Alec and Sean and their spouses Vivanna and Michelle at Angeli's Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria. I took BYOB from our cellar this vintage Silvio Grasso Barolo for the occasion. For our Italian dinner I wanted to take an Italian varietal wine, preferably a Sangiovese or a Nebbiolo, and this was one of the few that we hold in our cellar as most of our collection is comprised of Bordeaux and Rhone varietals.

Produced by the Grasso family who have been producing wine since 1927, but Federico Grasso only started bottling all their production since the mid 1980s, when Alessio Federico took over from his father Silvio. 

Grassos farm a total of 14 hectares of vineyards; 6 estate owned and 8 leased in the La Morra, Barolo wine district from the Piedmont region of Northern Italy. Federico Grasso is backed by his wife Marilena and by his sons Silvio and Paolo. According to Robert Parker, they have  "produced a bevy of sensational efforts over recent vintages."

Despite their small overall production, they produce a dozen different labels, six of which are different  sophisticated, modern Barolos produced in a style noted for avoiding excessive wood aromas as Grasso prefers to use large barrels rather than barriques for maturation, and uses less than 30% new wood even on his single-vineyard bottlings. All the Barolos are 100% estate grown Nebbiolo grapes with this being their entry level estate bottled label.

They also produce several small production single vineyard labels, "Bricco Luciani", which is located just above Molino’s "Gancia" vineyard classic La Morra, which is soft and generous, while the "Ciabot Manzoni" was described as "Godzilla-like" by Parker, "multidimensional, compelling/prodigious... gigantic in scope and stature"; this wine was given 95 points for the 2004 by the Wine Spectator. Notably, all of Grasso's 2004 Baroli were awarded scores between 92-95 points.

This is 100% estate bottled Nebbiolo sourced from a small 4 acre vineyard from vines planted in 1982. Nebbiolo is characterized by aromatic wines with rich tannins and characteristics of old oak, these wines are considered by most to be some Italy's finest. 

Barolo wines are some of the most noble and expensive of Italian wines and are synonymous with the Nebbiolo grape.  The Nebbiolo grape does not travel well and is high maintenance, which is why it has never thrived quite as well elsewhere as on the Piemontese slopes and was not adopted by other wine producing regions. Like its top contender, Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo reflects its terroir and displays the subtleties of its environment and sense of 'place' where it is grown.

Silvio Grasso Barolo 2010

This release was awarded 94 points by James Suckling and 91 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. 

Analyst notes: "This wine is robust with evident notes of red flowers on the nose. The palate will enjoy significant acid and strong, long, earthy finish. These wines collect well, although consult a specialist to get a hold of of the best vintages."

Dark garnet colored, slightly opaque, medium bodied, complex, concentrated with deep dark berry and black cherry fruits with notes of tobacco, leather, smoke, mineral and floral turning to approachable tannins on the moderate finish. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1828058

http://www.silviograsso.com/en/prodotti/barolo

Rivetti Pin La Spinetta Castagnole Monferrato 2005

Rivetti Pin La Spinetta Castagnole Monferrato 2005

We don't have much Italian wine in our cellar, less than 1%. But when I was seeking a nice bottle to accompany our Angeli's Italian dinner carry out, I pulled this classic decade year old Italian red blend of which I hold a half dozen bottles. La Spinetta produce a line of premium Piedmont and Tuscan wines from traditional varietals in a new world style and flair.

This 'Pin' label is named after the nickname of Giuseppe Rivetti, the patriarch of the family and father of the current producer Giorgio, of the estate La Spinetta, which means 'top of the hill', in Castagnole Lanze in the northern Italian region of Tuscany. The family first purchased 70 hectares of Moscato and Barbera d'Asti vineyards in 1977 and have continued to expand operations through expansion and development since. 

Today, Giuseppe's children — Carlo, Bruno, Giorgio and Giovanna have since taken over the family business, with Giorgio leading, assisted by elder sister Giovanna who is in charge of vineyard production.

Rivetti produced their first red Barbera Cà di Pian in 1985. The first release of Pin occurred in 1989, a blend of 50 percent Nebbiolo, 25 percent Barbera and 25 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. which was revolutionary at that time.  

In 1985 they produced their first Barbaresco followed by Gallina in 1995 and their first Barolo Campè in 2000. In 2001, La Spinetta acquired 65 additional hectares of vineyards in Tuscany where today they produce three different 100% Sangiovese wines. 

The Rivetti brand has grown internationally and today is well known, identified by their distinctive labels featuring a burly rhinoceros, which the Rivetti siblings say signifies quality. 

Origins of the unique wildlife logo illustration come from an ancient woodcut by historic German artist, Albrecht Dürer, who prepared his drawings and woodcut from descriptions and sketches of a rhinoceros gifted to the king of Portugal from India. It was the first animal of its kind in Europe. The Rivettis lament that they fell in love with this ancient wood cut print and the legend behind it. Giorgio Rivetti expressed his great admiration of the celebrated drawing and woodcut. but has downplayed the connection between this animal and the brand. 

Also depicted on the bottles of La Spinetta’s first Barolo Campè vintage, is a pencil drawing of a lion by Dürer, since Barolo is commonly known as the king of Italian reds. The legend continues. 

Pin Castagnole, Neive, Barbaresco Monferrato Rosso DOC 2005

This is a blend of 65% Nebbiolo, and 35% Barbera d’Asti Superiore Bionzo. Barbera and Nebbiolo are the two marquee red wine grapes of northwest Italy. They are often blended together in Piedmont to create modern style wines for the international palate. Nebbiolo, the powerful majestic grape of Barolo and Barbaresco, is blended with Barbera to be more approachable and smoother and balanced, and drinkable at an earlier age. Barbera adds cherry flavors to Nebbiolo’s distinctive strawberry, and the high acidity of both ensure the wine is fresh and rarely flabby.

As good as this was with the pasta and peas with vodka cream sauce, it was even better the following evening with char-grilled Pittsburgh style strip steak, asparagus and baked potato. 

This was dark blackish garnet colored, medium to full bodied, and was remarkably smooth, well balanced and polished. Bouquet and flavors are full forward complex black raspberry, black berry fruits punctuated by tones of oak, cedar, hints of earthy cassis and tar turning to silky smooth polished tannins with an elegant persistent finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=395355

http://www.la-spinetta.com/

Azelia San Rocco Barolo 2001

Azelia di Luigi Scavino San Rocco Barolo (Nebbiolo) 2001

Readers of this blog know we don't do a lot of Italian wines. Less than 1% of our cellar is in Italian labels. There are so many appellations and varietals and producers across all the regions, I advise folks to find one you like and focus on a few to develop knowledge and understanding of that area, and then move on. We focus on Bordeaux and Bordeaux varietals (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot...) and Rhone and its varietals (which includes Syrah/Shiraz and thus includes Australia's popular varietal).

I admit, I am not well versed in Italian wine regions and their associated grape varietals. I've written before that in the 'new world', we name or label our wines based on the primary grape varietal in the bottle. In the 'old world', they, (the French, Italians, Germans), name the wine for the region or appellation, and its up to the consumer to understand the applicable wine grape varietal associated with that area. For example, Left Bank Bordeaux appellations (growing areas) such as St Julien and Paulliac are Cabernet Sauvignon based blends, while Right Bank Bordeaux such as St Emilion and Pomerol are Merlot based blends.

In this case of Italy and Barolo, the wines are based on the Nebbiolo grape varietal.  Perhaps this is obvious, but the neophyte, or even learned wine geeks who don't know Italian wines, don't necessarily know the association of Sangiovese or Nebbiolo varietals and their regions and appellations, Barolo, Piedmont, Tuscany etc.

Skip ahead if this is known and basic, or bear with me if you're interested in learning these fundamentals of Barolo which is a Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) (aka appellation in France or AVA (American (Agriculture) Viticultural Area) in America) in the northern Italian region of Piedmont. Barolos are red wines made primarily from the Nebbiolo grape varietal. Within the Piedmont Barolo DOCG are the communes of Barolo, (in this case) Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga d'Alba, and parts of the communes of Cherasco, Diano d'Alba, Grinzane Cavour, La Morra, Monforte d'Alba, Novello, Roddi and Verduno. These sub-appellations as they might be called in America, are mentioned on the label, but are secondary to the region name. To many, me included, this adds to the confusion of interpreting or parsing an Italian wine label.

Barolo wines tend to be bold, full bodied, tannic, firm, concentrated and long lived with tasting characteristics of black fruits, tar, rose petals and smoke.
 
Readers of this blog will also know that we dine regularly at Angeli's Italian, our local trattoria, and when we do, we're limited in our Italian focused BYOB selections if we want to stay true to the native food wine pairing.

Tonight, for a casual mid-week dinner, I pulled this bottle from our limited Italian selection in the cellar with little foresight or understanding on what to expect in this fourteen year old. Wow, what a nice surprise. This Barolo was a blockbuster, a perfect accompaniment to our entree selections, Portabella Mushroom Ravioli with ricotta cheese, sauteed in marsala wine cream sauce, and the daily special, Asparagus Ravioli.

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, expressive complex concentrated but nicely integrated fruits of blackberry and black currant fruits highlighted by tones of tar, anise and smoke, and subdued earth and tobacco leaf notes, turning to firm but smooth polished tannins on the lingering tongue puckering finish.

I will look forward to exploring and adding more Barolo including this label to our wine acquisitions and selections in the future.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=101319

http://www.azelia.it/it/

Eataly Il Pesce for Great Seafood sans Fanfare

Eataly Il Pesce for Great Seafood sans Fanfare

Eataly Chicago Shown Above

On our getaway weekend in NYC, for lunch, we dined at Il Pesce at Eataly on 23rd St across from the spectacular picturesque historic Flatiron building, just a short walk from the Path.

Eataly, with locations beyond Italy and New York in Chicago, Dubai, Turkey and Japan, is a sensation - a conglomeration of all things Italian food and drink - wine, cheese, gellato, pasta, bread, meats, fish, and did I say pasta? ... all in one bustling location.

Each location features several restaurants, a wine bar, an expresso bar, gellato counter, cheese station, breads, fresh meat and fresh fish counters... like being in an Italian Village in a high energy bustling city setting. Its not intimate or conducive to conversation, but the food is good and the service rapid and past paced, friendly and responsive.

Flatiron Building, New York

One of the daily feature specials posted on the chalkboard was pan seared Flounder with roasted potatoes and cucumber salad. It was spectacular.  

From the menu we also had the Capesante con Indivia e Arance - Pan Seared Scallops with Orange Braised Endive, Thyme and Breadcrumbs. It was equally delectable.

To accompany lunch we order two wines (Italian, naturally) BTG (by the glass), Mirafiore Langhe Nebbiolo 2011, and Le Vigne di Zamò Friulano, 2013.



Mirafiore Langhe Nebbiolo 2011

According to Eataly, this wine has antique origins dating back to Emanuele Alberto, Count of Mirafiore, a legitimate son of King Vittorio Emanuele II and Rosa Vercellana. The Count of Mirafiore was the first to have the idea of transforming his farm into a winemaking house. The result was a line of extremely high quality wines that are inspired by the great tradition of Piedmontese wines, and which today still have the original historical label of  “Casa E. di Mirafiore”.

Dark purple garnet colored, medium to full bodied, ripe plum and blackberry fruits were accented by tones of mocha, hint of licorice with spicy nutmeg and tobacco turning to soft smooth tannins on a long lingering finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1930723

Le Vigne di Zamò Friulano 2013

Straw colored, light bodied, green apples, hints of citrus and pear on a crisp clean acidic finish.
RM 88 points.

https://eataly.com/resources/eataly/files/Pesce%2002-09-2015.pdf

Vintage Napa Reds vs Bold Barolo

Vintage Napa Reds vs Bold Barolo

For a spontaneous dinner on the patio at our neighborhood trattoria Angeli's Italian with friends Bill and Beth, I took BYOB two vintage 1996 Napa reds - Paradigm Oakville Cabernet and Liparita Howell Mountain Merlot. Bill brought a bruising Barolo that showed its muscle as a complement to the Italian sausage and pasta. This was an interesting contrast in new world and old world varietals as well as a nine year old vs eighteen year olds that one might think are nearing the end of their years.

We still hold almost a case of Paradigm Cabernet from several mid-nineties vintages so I am tracking their aging and drinkability with interest.

We visited Paradigm during our Napa Wine Experience back in 1999. I recall tasting the Liparita from barrel at the Oakville custom crush facility with then winemkaer Gove Celia during our Napa visit back in 1998. Both of these wines are showing their age, probably beyond their apex, or any chance for improvement, but still within their drinking window. Both show some diminution of fruit, giving way to non-fruit charcoal and earth tones. Yet, each revealed some of its native fruit character at some point during the evening.


Liparita Napa Valley Howell Mountain Merlot 1996

We know that to bear the Howell Mountain appellation that the fruit for this wine had to be sourced from vineyards above 1200 foot elevation, the level of the normal fog line. I don't recall, or perhaps never knew the source. This '96 surprisingly showed bright and vibrant red berry fruit after being open for about an hour.  As written in this blog, we tasted this wine from a magnum from our cellar last year and those notes indicated more stable and complexity in the fruit - another indicator of the enhanced aging of wine in a larger format bottle such as a magnum.

Notes from magnum tasting - Dark garnet colored - medium-full bodied - black cherry, black berry fruits still holding for this seventeen year old - perhaps aided by larger format magnum, tones of cedar, spicy oak, subtle leather and earth - moderate smooth well integrated tannins on a lingering finish. $66 at Dean & Deluca in Napa (upon release)

(Then) RM 89 points. Tonight this wine rated 88 points due to the slight diminution of fruit as noted above.

http://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=219362

The current Liparita label is under different ownership from the label around the milenium. 

Paradigm Napa Valley Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 1996

Despite having a case of this wine in various vintages from this era, my only record of tasting this wine was during our Napa visit back in 1999. This was our last bottle from 1996, the remaining bottles are from 1994, 1995, and 2001-02. Ren & Marilyn Harris have owned the property since the eighties, producing wine under the Paradigm label since 1991. Today the winemaker for Paradigm is the legendary Heidi Barrett.

I opened, decanted and then rebottled and recorked this wine an hour before setting out for the restaurant. Upon decanting it released huge aroma's of berry fruits and some floral. After opening for serving the fruit was a bit muted for almost an hour before revealing black berry, black cherry and hints of sweet black raspberry, giving way to a layer of charcoal, anise and spice. Tannins were moderate on the lingering finish. This wine is still showing okay but should be consumed over the next few years.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=5876

http://www.paradigmwinery.com


Franco Molino Barolo Villero Riserva Nebbiolo 2005

From a country with a mind-boggling 600 different grape varietals, one of the better known and more popular is Nebbiolo which produces lightly-colored red wines which can be highly tannic in youth with scents of tar and roses, that soften and become more approachable with some age. Nebbiolo grapes are characteristically found in red wines from the Barolo DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) or appellation in the northern Italian region of Piedmont.

Bill's tasting notes from Cellartracker - "Big, bold and fruit forward. Took some time (about an hour) for the "heat" to blow off but when it did we were left with a nicely balanced Italian with notes of raspberry, cherry and a bit of pepper. Finish was medium in duration. Really delicious with a spicy sausage, pasta dish. An interesting comparison side by side with a pair of '96 Napa wines."

WCC 88 points. 

Bright dark ruby colored, full bodied, moderately complex, concentrated flavorful forward red and dark berry fruits with hints of spice, creosote and leather, finishing with firm structure and a smooth polished tannin backbone.

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1288598