Summer dinner on the patio at Chez Joel

Summer dinner on the patio at Chez Joel Bistro, Chicago, with special vintage birth year BYOB wine

Going back more than a decade it’s been a tradition of summer to have dinner on the patio at Chez Joel Bistro in Little Italy, Chicago. 

We dined with Son Sean and his family, MIchelle and their two daughters, our grand-daughters for whom we babysit for several days each week, including the last couple of weeks.

 

We ordered several starters before dinner - our usual Pate’, the Escargot and tonight’s special Cerviche

Pâté de deux Sortes - Duck Liver Pâté with Traditional Garnish & Toast Points

Escargots A La Bourguignon - French Snails with Garlic Butter, Pernod & Herbed Breadcrumbs

For our dinner entrees, Linda had one of the daily specials, Pan Seared Alaskan Halibut with bok choy, corn/mango salsa and pomme puree’.

Sean and I both ordered from the menu the regular Duck entree -  

Magret et Confit de Canard, Sauce à L’orange - Seared Duck Breast & Leg Confit, Wild Mushrooms, Red Cabbage, Beets, Poached Pear, Sweet Potato Puff 

Michelle ordered the Rack of Lamb chops served with pomme’ purée. 

For a special wine with dinner, I pulled from the cellar an aged vintage wine commemorating Sean’s birth year that we took BYOB.

Cos d’Estournel St. Estephe Bordeaux 1985

For a special wine with dinner, I pulled from the cellar an aged vintage wine commemorating Sean’s birth year that we took BYOB.

Chateau Cos d'Estournel is a Grand Cru vineyard located on the road from Pauillac as you enter the St. Estephe appellation. Its oriental facade is adorned with three pagoda turrets.

The estate is situated in the very south of Saint-Estèphe, just north of Pauillac's Lafite Rothschild where the south-facing vineyard slopes gently down to the Jalle du Breuil stream which separates it from the first growth Chateau Lafite Rothschild. 

We visited the iconic Chateau Cos d'Estournel with oriental facade adorned with three pagoda turrets and the Grand Cru vineyards in St. Estephe during our visit to Bordeaux in 2019. 

Cos d’Estournel St. Estephe Bordeaux 1985

In old Gascon, "cos" means "hill of pebbles", and the vineyard does consist of deep Quaternary gravels and clay on limestone bedrock. 

The Chateau Cos d'Estournel estate covers 170 acres separated from Chateau Lafite Rothschild on the southern edge, by the stream between St. Estephe and Pauillac. The gravelly soil, over a flint, limestone and silicate subsoil low in nitrogen, has eroded over centuries to form steep ridges which perfectly drain the vineyards. 

The vineyards are planted 60 percent in Cabernet Sauvignon vines, 2 percent of Cabernet Franc, and 38 percent in Merlot. Naturally, the percentage of Cabernet or Merlot in the composition of each vintage depends on the climate which favors one grape variety or the other.

In the 1855 Classification, it was classified as a second growth and remains one of the most prominent and sought-after of all Bordeaux wines. Historically, the Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant grand vin has had a high percentage of Merlot compared with other Médoc growths, although this has lessened in recent years. 

Cos d'Estournel is known to be dark, brooding and tannic when young, developing complexity and intensity with time.

1985 Cos d'Estournel, St-Estèphe

This release was awarded a concensus 93 points by Wine Advocate, Vinous and Wine Spectator. 

Still holding its own at forty years shows the age worthiness of this wine in top vintages and the 1985 from cask could have been a lighter version of the 1982 and 1953 vintages. We’ve held this since acquiring it on release back in the eighties. The foil, label and importantly the cork and fill level were all acceptable for their age. The cork was partly saturated and a bit soft but was able to be extracted by the waiter with his traditional cork screw. 

Showing its age, the color was garnet colored and a bit opaque with moderate bricking, medium bodied, ever so slight subdued nose on the concentrated red and black berry and black cherry fruits accented by leather, tobacco and spice with a hints of cedar and pain grille on a moderate finish of fine grained tannins. 

Vinous said “This bottle constitutes the best example of the 1985 that I have encountered.”

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?13153

https://www.chezjoelbistro.com/

https://www.estournel.com/en/

 

Guy Amiot Chassagne Montrachet At Suzette's Creperie Wheaton

Guy Amiot Chassagne Montrachet At Suzette's Creperie Wheaton 

We dined at Suzette's Creperie in nearby Wheaton (IL) our favorite suburban French Bistro.

Being early diners on a weeknight, we were able to secure the desirable and preferred table adjacent the front window, next to the festive Christmas tree. 

 

 

We had our usual favorite dishes,the Pâté plate - a slice of smooth Chicken Liver Mousse and a slice of Country Style Pâté served with Dijon mustard, Cornichons and delicious Red Onion Marmalade  with Toasted Brioche on the side, and for entrees, the delectable Sole Meunière, Delicate Sole Filet in a Butter-lemon Sauce, served with Potatoes du Jour & Seasonal Vegetables.

 

Tonight we tried the Three Cheese Soufflé - Goat, Blue and Gruyere Cheese in a fabulous bubbly Soufflé, which was delicious and will certainly be part of our regular faire going forward. I don't know how we have overlooked this in the past! 

Three Cheese Soufflé - Goat, Blue and Gruyere

Chicken Liver Mousse and a slice of
Country Style Pâté

Sole Meunière in a Butter-lemon Sauce
with Potatoes du Jour & Seasonal Vegetables

Tonight, the sole was doctored with Thyme and Rosemary spices which severely detracted from the crisp butter and lemon authenticity of the dish that I would much prefer.

From the winelist we ordered this French Burgundy Chardonnay - Guy Amiot Et Fils Chassagne Montrachet Vielles Vigne 2016

Domaine Amiot was founded in the commune of Chassagne-Montrachet in 1920 by Arsene Amiot when he acquired select parcels of vines or “climats” in Chassagne including Vergers, Caillerets, Clos St. Jean and in what is today Le Montrachet. 

Under Aresene, Domaine Amiot became one of the first domaines in Burgundy to bottle their own production. In the 1930’s the domaine estates passed to Aresene’s son, Pierre, who continued to add vineyards in nearby sites Champsgains, Macherelles, Maltroie and a tiny parcel in Puligny, Les Demoiselles. 

Pierre’s son, Guy, took control in 1985 and further established the reputation of the domaine for producing exceptional quality wines from the collection of top vineyard sites. Guy’s son Thierry took over as  winemaker in 2003 and continues crafting wines that express the distinctive terroir or character of each vineyard site while striving to achieve the highest quality of the wines.

The Chassagne-Montrachet appellation is located south of Côte de Beaune and covers 865 acre of clayish limestone. Most of the wine produced in the village is white wine from the Chardonnay grape, with a small amount of red wine made from the Pinot Noir grape.

The village includes the Grand Cru vineyard of Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet within its boundaries and shares two Grand Cru vineyards - Montrachet and Bâtard-Montrachet - with the neighbouring village of Puligny-Montrachet. These three vineyards produce some of the most expensive and long-lived white wines in the world.

Guy Amiot Et Fils Chassagne Montrachet Vielles Vigne 2016

Of course French wines are labeled for the site of origin of the grapes as opposed to American wines which are labeled for the type of grape in the bottle. Its up the consumer to understand which grapes are grown in the region or the specific 'appellation'.

This is 100% Chardonnay from 45 year 'old vines', (Vielles Vigne) in the the 2 1/2 acre Thierry and Fabrice producers' (Guy) Amiot vineyard in the Burgundy Appellation of Chassagne-Montrachet. 

There were 6,500 bottles, 540 cases produced. 

This is designated a Grand Vin De Bourgogne (Burgundy).

Suzette's winelist is predominantly French and a California Chardonnay would've likely provided a better wine value. Never-the-less, we love the authentic French cuisine and accompaniments - all part of the experience.

Winemaker Notes: "Brilliant yellow gold and straw with green reflections in a bright and clear. This wine has an expressive nose of yellow fruits with a touch of vanilla. The aromatic richness of the nose is reinforced by a creamy palate with fresh flavors of apples, pear, peaches, honey and almond. The vineyard site receives full morning sun, giving a freshness and a stony, mineral foundation to the wine."

Light golden straw colored, medium bodied, complex crisp, slightly tart pear, apple, grapefruit fruits with hints of peach accented by creamy butter, vanilla and almond notes with a stony, mineral finish.   

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3039258

http://suzettescreperie.com/index.html

Suzette's Creperie Wheaton

Suzette's Creperie Wheaton for authentic French cuisine in intimate casual setting

Thursday night out, we dined at Suzette's Crêperie in nearby Wheaton (IL), one of the few authentic French cuisine eateries in the western suburbs, and one of our favorite go-to casual fine dining sites. 

Sited downtown Wheaton city centre, adjacent the convenient muni parking garage, a block from the Metra station, Suzette's offers intimate casual fine dining, al fresco dining out front or on the rear patio, a private dining room for special dinners, and a bar, adjacent the authentic Suzette's Boulangerie & Pâtisserie, a French inspired bakery. 

We wish they'd offer a broader selection beyond the Crêpe centric menu, beyond the two nightly specials, which often aren't published or revealed until opening time. But hey, its Suzette's Crêperie, inspired by and built to bring to America authentic Parisian Crêpes.

Notably, it's difficult enough for restaurants to carry on in the post covid era with reduced limited staff, Biden induced inflation increased costs, and budget conscious diners. 

C'est la vie. 

Tonight, I selected the 'daily special' Sole Meunière, which is one of my favorite dishes, along with the Country Style Pâté, another of my favorites. 

As featured in recent previous posts in these pages, the Chicken Liver Mousse and slice of Country Style Pâté  are served with Dijon mustard, Cornichons and delicious Red Onion Marmalade with toasted Brioche on the side.  

Suzette's Sole Meunière is served in the classic French style, Filets of Sole were dredged in flour, pan fried in butter and served with the resulting brown butter herb sauce, parsley and lemon, alongside spring vegetables and mashed potatoes. Wonderful, delicious, as usual.

Linda order the Ham & Cheese Crêpe, which described in the menu as simple but delicious, and it was, delectable, exceeding both our expectations. 

I had already ordered this Domaine Chevalier Les Voleyses Crozes-Hermitage Northern Rhone Syrah to accompany my Country Style Pâté starter, before selecting my Sole Meunière entree, otherwise, I would've opted for a white wine. Never-the-less it went well with the my starter and Linda's entree. 

This was a wine we had ordered in a previous visit from their somewhat limited but artfully and carefully selected wine list. The Wine Spectator Magazine Award of Excellence wine list offers close to a hundred French wines from an inventory of nearly 600 bottles, as well as champagnes, sherries, French beer, French Ciders, Cognacs, Armagnacs and spirits. They offer wines in all price ranges from modest house W-B-T-G (wines by the glass) or bottles from basic to to super premium vintage first growths.

Marlène & Nicolas Chevalier Les Voleyses Crozes Hermitage 2018

I wrote about this wine and this producer in an earlier blogpost. This Tain-Hermitage, Domaine Chevalier is produced by brother and sister team of Nicolas and Marlène Chevalier. Nicolas tends the vineyards and crafts each cuvee, while Marlène handles all of the sales and marketing for Domaine Chevalier.

Marlène and Nicolas Chevalier farm three small vineyards at their meticulously tended family property comprising 3 1/2 acres in Crozes-Hermitage from which they produce on average 500 cases of red and white Rhône wines in tiny lots which are highly allocated. Their wines are found only in a couple of importer direct wine clubs and renowned restaurants in North American.

The 2018 vintage was top rated in the Northern Rhône.

 

Importer notes: The 2018 Domaine Chevalier Les Voleyses Crozes-Hermitage sports a brilliant purple robe and a captivating aroma redolent with the scents of blackberry, plum, violets, and exotic spices. Sensuous and seductive in the mouth, the 2018 Les Voleyses graces the palate with a silky texture and pure floral, fruit, and forest floor flavors that have aptly been described as hedonism in a glass. Moreover, the 2018 Domaine Chevalier Les Voleyses is juicy and harmonious to the finish, as it makes an exit with joyful panache.

 

The Voleyses Cuvée is 100% Syrah made from younger vine fruit and aged in stainless steel.

Consistent with my earlier tasting notes, Deep inky purple colored medium-full bodied, full round layers of blackberry and plum fruits, notes of black tea, spice and leather overtake the fruits, turning to soft chewy textured tannins on a medium finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3495672

http://suzettescreperie.com/index.html

Beaubourg Le District NYC Wine Tasting

Beaubourg Le District NYC Wine Tasting

During our weekend visit to NYC we dined at Le District, a collection of three different French Markets and wine and dining options. Like Eataly, where we ate earlier in our trip, the Italian focused destination for all things Italian, Le District is a destination for all things French.

Le District has four different restaurants Beaubourg, classic French Brasserie, Le Bar featuring bar food and an extensive wine list, Bar A Vin offering 32 different rotating wines that can be paired with over 200 cheese and home made charcuterie, and L'Appart, a Michelin-star restaurant with a weekly, seasonal changing menu prepared under the direction of notable Chef de Cuisine Nicolas Abello.

The Market District features a series of market settings - a Boulangerie, Delices du chef, Bar a Frites, Cheese and Charcuterie, Rotisserie, Boucherie & Poissonnerie.

The Café District offers several settings for enjoying French specialties in an authentic village market and cafe setting - café patisserie, and Café Gourmande serving coffee delights, pastries, crepes, chocolates, and a broad assortment of French treats.

The Garden District simulates a French village with its range of markets shops including fresh produce, fresh flowers, daily essential grocery items, and a broad range of epicurean delicacies.

We dined at Beaubourg, an outdoor cafe serving their weekend brunch menu. We ordered

Soupe À L’Oignon, French Onion soup with Gruyère Gratin and Sourdough. Alec had the Jambon De Paris, ham and cheese croissant with gruyère and field greens.

I ordered the cheese and charcuterie board with a selection of cheese and pates - Pâté de Foie 

and Pâté de Campagne

. 

Camembert Fermier (cow)

 Bleu D’Auvergne (sheep) 

Perail Papillon (sheep)

Humboldt Fog (goat) 

Tomme Crayeuse (cow) 

Tomme de Chèvre Muscadet (goat)

 Pâté de Foie 

Pâté de Campagne

For our wine selection we ordered from the extensive winelist this Echo de Lynch-Bages Pauillac. 

There is an broad selection of wines by the glass, and an extensive wine list showcasing French wines from modest to extraordinary First and Second Growths from outstanding vintages. There are more than a hundred carefully chosen labels, mostly in the $100 to $400 range, and also some outrageous selections such as Chateau Petrus 1982 for $7500.

Following our recent trip to Bordeaux, I was hoping for a St Julien and was tempted by the Second Growths, Château Ducru Beaucaillou ($360), Château Gruaud-Larose ($260), two of the estates that were highlights of our tours, a broad selection of Chateau Talbot vintages, and several second labels of some top producers Pichon Lalande and Lynch Bages. In the end we chose this Echo de Lynch-Bages, the second wine of Lynch Bages, one of favorite producers we visited during our trip.

Echo de Lynch Bages, 2nd label Lynch Bages Pauillac 2014

We actually ordered and were served the 2014 vintage release which was decanted and served in a carafe. When we asked for the bottle to capture a picture, they presented the 2015 and were told we consumed the last remaining '14. 

We visited the Lynch Bages estate in Pauillac this summer. It was closed due to extensive construction. We'll look forward to visiting on a future trip. 

Like I wrote regarding the wine selection we ordered the night before last, in good vintages, like 'all boats rising with the tide', the second labels of top producers are also good and can offer great value relative to the first label grand vin. 

We ordered Echo de Lynch-Bages, their second label, which offeres enjoyable drinking and early gratification when young. 

This was bright ruby colored, medium-full bodied, bright vibrant black currant, black berry and ripe plum fruits with accents of cassis, classic Pauillac graphite, and hints of herbs and earthy leather. This is a blend of  73 % Cabernet Sauvignon and 27 % Merlot and is reported to be the highest percentage of Cabernet since the 2001 release. 

RM 91 points. 

This got 92 points from James Suckling, 91 points from Vinous, and 90 points from Wine Spectator. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2108513

https://www.ledistrict.com/