Aged vintage wines for family birthday dinner

Aged vintage wines for family birthday dinner 

The family gathered at our house for a gala celebration dinner for my upcoming birthday. 

We grilled out cowboy tomahawk ribeye steaks and bbq baby back ribs, and scallops, accompanied by salad, baked beans, mashed potatoes, grilled asparagus and Mac-n-cheese (for the kids). 

The cooks, (above) Linda, master chef, and Ryan, griller and carver - naturally absent, missing from the family photo above, (as is Reid who was playing ball out in the yard with friends). 

Grilled scallops on herb buttered toast points 

For a wine accompaniment I pulled from the cellar a Sauvignon Blanc and a Chardonnay for the whites and two aged vintage big reds wines for the beef and ribs, and an aged vintage dessert wine (also a birthyear vintage). 

I also selected several younger Right Bank Bordeaux varietal wines, in the event we went through the open bottles, or needed a back-up if the first choice wines were not up to par, due to age or other conditions.  Almost regrettably, we didn’t open those wines which I was looking forward to trying, hence they’ll be available for another day. 

LaJota Napa Valley Howell Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon 1990

La Jota Vineyards in Napa Valley date back to 1888 when winemaking pioneer W.S. Keyes planted some of the first vines on Howell Mountain. Ten years later his contemporary, Fredrick Hess, built a stone winery and established La Jota Vineyard Co., named for its location on the Mexican parcel Rancho La Jota. 

Both men won medals for their Howell Mountain wines in the Paris Exposition of 1900.

La Jota Vineyard Co. continues today as a boutique producer crafting small-production mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Chardonnay, sourced from the winery’s estate and from nearby W.S. Keyes Vineyard.

Today, Howell Mountain is known for Cabernet Sauvignon in Napa’s rugged northeastern hills with its volcanic ash soils deposited millenia ago by Mount Konocti. Howell Mountain itself is a weathered volcanic "knob" with two distinct soils: crumbly white decomposed volcanic ash known as rhyolitic tuff and red, iron-laden soils of clay and volcanic rock.

La Jota estate vines develop good root systems in these well-draining, porous, nutrient-lean soils, allowing them to self-regulate the amount of water they take in. And the nutrient lean soils force the vines to struggle to survive, forcing their energy to the fruit. The result is tiny berries and clusters with very high flavor concentration.

Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon was made famous by legendary wine maker Randy Dunn, who gained fame at Caymus in the 1970s and 1980s. Turning his attention to Howell Mountain, it became officially recognized as the first sub-region of Napa Valley in 1983. We visited the Dunn Vineyards estate up at Angwin on Howell Mountain during our Napa Valley Howell Mountain Wine Experience back in 2008. We were hosted by Kristina Dunn that day but we had the privilege to meet winemaker, producer, patriarch and Napa Valley pioneer Randy Dunn.

The Howell Mountain AVA includes 1,000 acres of vineyards interspersed by forestlands at the north end of the Vaca Mountain range that forms the eastern wall or Napa Valley. With vineyards at 1,400 to 2,000 feet in elevation, they sit above the fog line. The days on Howell Mountain remain cooler than those in the heart of the valley, giving the grapes a bit more time on the vine.

The soils, shallow and infertile with good drainage, are volcanic ash and red clay and produce highly concentrated berries with thick skins. The resulting wines are full of structure and potential to age.

We tasted the recent release of La Jota Howel Mtn Cabernet at the SoWal (Southwest Walton Beaches) Wine Festival in Destin, (FL) last year was one of the highlights of that event and we acquired their current release of this label at that time - Pour Boys gather for SoWal Wine Festival weekend in Destin.

Notably, LaJota was acquired by and is now part of the vast portfolio of Jackson Family Wines, who amassed a vast Billion dollar wine empire that now comprises some of the most storied labels, such as this. It was being presented by Jackson Wines at the SoWal festival. 

I wrote about Jess Jackson and the building of the family wine empire in earlier blogposts in these pages - most recently last month - La Crema Coastal Chardonnay with Homemade Chicken Piccata, and earlier, Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2018.

And, we’ve featured other vintages of this label in other notable tastings -Boy's Night Out Cellar Tours Wine Tasting, and Dad's Day Father Son Tasting Birthyear Wines.

Today, La Jota’s winemaker is Chris Carpenter, a graduate from the University of Illinois with a BS in biology, who also earned an MBA in Chicago before working various roles in the food and beverages industry. During those years in Chicago he developed a love of food and wine, and a network of colleagues in the business.

After a visit to Napa Valley in 1993, he decided to pursue a career in wine and went on to earn a Masters in Viticulture and Enology from the University of California, Davis. 

In 1998 he found himself working as the Assistant Winemaker at Cardinale where he learned making wines from mountain terroir. In 2005 he became the Winemaker for La Jota.

Tonight we opened this vintage 1990 release,  a birthyear vintage wine of son Alec, celebrating my birthday, and he and wife Vivianna expecting (grand) baby number three. 

This release was rated 92 points by Robert Parker back in 1993, when he wrote, this wine should “reach its apogee by the turn of the century and last 20 or more years”. 

At 35 years, it has held up remarkably well, despite the tattered label, the fill level and cork were still in great condition, considering their age. 

The wine showed no signs of diminution from aging and still well within its drinking window, albeit not likely to continue aging beyond a few more years. 

Winemaker Notes - “Where rivers, creeks and property lines usually define an AVA, the Howell Mountain boundaries are defined by a 1,400 foot elevation contour line as the lowest point and the highest vineyards at 2,400 feet above sea level. The vines share the mountain with pines, oaks, madrone and the easternmost stand of the coastal redwoods.”

Opaque garnet/purple colored, medium to full bodied, rich, round concentrated black berry and black currant fruits with notes of minerals, cassis, and classic Howell Mtn spices, with firm but approachable tannins on the lingering, what Wine Spectator calls “fleshy” finish.  

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?771991

https://www.lajotavineyardco.com/

Château du Domaine de l'Eglise Pomerol 1989

Château du Domaine de l'Eglise is a renowned producer of Right Bank Bordeaux wine, located in the commune of Pomerol, in the shadow of the church tower, and less than two kilometres, within walking distance, of notable producers Château Clinet (300m) and Château Petrus (900m). 

The Pomerol AOC (Appellation Originale Controllee) is located in the Libourne region on the Right Bank of the Dordogne River, just upstream from its confluence with the Isle. The town of Libourne, has a port that was used for exporting wines as far back as 1269. 

In the 1900s, winegrowers got together and made joint purchases. Working together, they set up a winegrowers’ and farmers’ union to improve their wine and protect the Pomerol appellation. The AOC area was defined in 1928, recognised in 1936 and revised in 2011.

Today, the Pomerol AOC is renowned for its great wines such as Pétrus, Trotanoy, Clinet, Petit Village and Gazin. The Pomerol appellation comprises around 800 hectares with 140 producers with an average of 6 hectares, producing 31,000 hectolitres of red wine a year.

The origins of the Château du Domaine de l’Église vineyard can be traced back to 1589, at the beginning of the reign of the Good King Henri (Henri IV). The estate was seized by authorities during the French Revolution and in 1793 it was sold to the Bertin family though a national property sale.

In 1893, the Bertin family produced ten barrels of wine, rising to twenty barrels by 1949. Simon Landard, Laure Bertin’s nephew, ran the estate a few years later. The estate was acquired in 1973 by Émile Castéja, 

Château du Domaine de l’Eglise was owned by Philippe Castéja and his sister, Chantal Castéja Prében-Hansen. Philippe ran the estate and improved the quality of the wine over the years. The wine from Château du Domaine de l’Eglise is considered a Grand Vin. Today the estate is run by the firm of Borie-Manoux.

The 7-hectare vineyard of Château du Domaine de l’Église is mainly planted with Merlot (95%), with a touch of Cabernet Franc (5%). The vines have an average age of 40 years.  The vineyard is situated on a plateau with classic Pomerol terroir, characterized by gravelly soil and clay subsoil, which imparts a distinct minerality to the wine. 

At thirty six years, this wine was holding up remarkably well and still very much in its drinking window, but certainly not likely to improve with any further aging, and best to be consumed in the next couple years. The label and foil and most importantly the fill level was top of neck and the cork was still intact despite being partly saturated, it was holding its integrity. It was carefully extracted using an ‘Ahso’ two pronged cork puller (shown). It likely would have collapsed in the bottle if pressed by a traditional cork screw. I always use this method, especially with older wines (except for synthetic corks).  

This release was awarded 90 points by Wine Advocate in 1993. 

This was even better the following day, being more balanced and settled, after decades of aging in the cellar.

Dark blackish garnet colored, medium to full bodied, deep rich round ripe balanced blackberry, cherry and plum fruits with herbs and vibrant spice notes with soft fine tannins on a long sensuous finish. 

RM 90 points, better, 91 points the following day. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?186048

https://www.domainedeleglise.com/en/

We also opened a birthyear vintage aged sweet dessert wine which paired perfectly with the scallops as well as the salad and later, the dessert. I wrote about this in a follow on blogpost - Clos Fontindoule Monbazillac Dessert Wine.

 https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2025/05/clos-fontindoule-monbazillac-1982-as.html

Hermannhof Wines, Hermann MO - Dierberg Vineyards, Santa Barbara

Hermannhof Wines, Hermann Missouri - Dierberg Vineyards, Santa Barbara

Continuing our Missouri Wine Experience, traveling across the State of Missouri visiting different winesites, we ventured to Hermann, Missouri along the Missouri River, home to more than a dozen wine producers.  

With the area's history and rich German heritage dating back to its founding in 1837, the town of Hermann and its setting on the bluffs overlooking the Missouri River is often referred to as the Missouri Rhineland because of its resemblance to Germany’s Rhine River Valley,

A visit to Hermann would not be complete without a visit to G. Hussman Wine Company, Hermannhof Winery and Cellars, namesake to much of the town including the winery, distillery, a couple hotels and inns, the lumber yard, and a couple of butcher meat market restaurants with locally-made German sausages. Hermannhof's stone cellars and brick structure are among 100 early Hermann buildings placed on the National Register of Historic places by the Federal government.

In 1974, Jim and Mary Dierberg of St Louis purchased the historic Hermannhof Winery in Hermann, Missouri. Established in 1852 as a brewery and winery, it is one of the oldest operating wineries in the US, even pre-dating the oldest wineries in California, including the historic Buena Vista in Sonoma, established in 1857. 

Construction of the initial building, used as a brewery and winery, was built from 1848 through 1852 in the French section of the early settlement of Hermann. Hermannhof's wine making was initially a small part of the highly successful brewery. 

By 1904, the Hermann area produced 3 million gallons of wine, mostly by small wine grower/producers, many of whom utilized the facilities of Hermannhof until prohibition forced the vineyards to be uprooted and the equipment destroyed or sold to Europeans.

The Dierberg, originally bankers by profession, spent the next several decades renovating and enhancing the Hermann property. Over time, while learning the craft growing grapes and making wine in the midwest, they began looking outside of Missouri for a place to plant traditional European varietal grapes. 

In 1996, after a long search throughout France and California, the Dierbergs discovered the California central coast and Santa Barbara’s cool coastal valleys where they purchased a 4,000-acre property in Happy Canyon.

They planted two estates - their namesake Dierberg Vineyard, and Drum Canyon Vineyard, from which they produced wines under the Dierberg label. They then developed a warm climate site, planting the Star Lane Vineyard, also in Santa Barbara County which they developed under that brand.

In addition to their Hermann vineyards and facilities, the Dierbergs now own and operate two thousand acres of vineyards in and around Santa Barbara County. They have vineyards in the Santa Barbara, Santa Ynez, Santa Maria and Saint Rita Hills wine region AVA's where they produce 15000 cases of premium wine annually. 

These California wines are featured in a tasting room in historic building adjacent to the Hermannhof winery and distillery campus in Hermann. 

When we stepped in to the Hermannhof winery tasting room, they explained that "the Missouri wines are offered here, and the California wines are next door". While we were originally intent of exploring the Missouri wines, having already visited several Missouri producers, we were intrigued and went next door to explore what quality California wines were on offer.

We learned that Dierburg produce estate wines sourced from their two thousand acres of Southern California Santa Barbara County vineyards. They market and distribute under the Dierberg, Starlane and Three Saints brands.They grow Bordeaux varietals Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and Burgundy varietals Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, as well as Syrah. 

The Dierberg Vineyard, is thirteen miles from the Pacific Ocean in one of the cooler winegrowing corners of Santa Barbara County, on the western edge of the Santa Maria Valley appellation. It was planted in 1997 to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay along the south bank of the Santa Maria River. It’s the oldest of three vineyards owned by the Dierberg family in Santa Barbara County. The vineyard boasts 161 acres of rolling hills with mostly sandy loam soils, about 2/3 of which is planted to Pinot Noir. They also operate a tasting room there on the Santa Maria Valley property.

They planted the Drum Canyon Vineyard in the Santa Rita Hills between the towns of Lompoc and Buellton in Santa Barbara County in 2003. There, the terroir with persistent, steady winds rolling through the canyon is an ideal environment for producing California Pinot Noir with the intensity and signature acidity of the well known notable Santa Rita Hills AVA. 

Their third vineyard site is Star Lane Vineyard in the Happy Canyon AVA. This vineyard is in the hills and canyons of their vast estate, rising from 750 feet to 1,550. The vineyard consists of numerous, diverse blocks, at the lower elevations, plantings are on flat ground with relatively little wind. Further up in the hills, the vines lie on slopes of up to 45 degrees, and, at the highest elevations, winds can be extremely strong and eventually shreds the wind-blocking material which hangs around the perimeter. Depending on altitude, facing and the vagaries of particular days, diurnal shift during the growing season can be 30 to 50 degrees.

The vineyard’s shallow and well drained soils are also varied from sandy, graveled to rocky topped clay-loam. The Star Lane Vineyard is planted in Bordeaux varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Sauvignon Blanc as well as Syrah. 

Today, the entire Dierberg family including their grown children and their spouses are involved in the day-to-day operations of the vineyards and winery.

 

Dierbergs brought in Tyler Thomas who joined Dierberg and Star Lane Vineyards in 2013 as winemaker. After earning degrees at Colorado State, he received a masters in Viticulture and Enology at U.C. Davis. Today he is responsible for all day-to-day details of winemaking, from harvest to the final blending of the wines as president and winemaker of Dierberg and Star Lane Vineyards.

The Dierberg Hermann tasting room offers the broad portfolio of California Santa Barbara County estate grown wines. We tasted the following wines:

Dierberg Santa Maria Valley Dierberg Vineyard Chardonnay 2016

This was was rated 94 points by Wine Enthusiast, 92 points by  Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 91 points by Wine Spectator, Jeb Dunnuck and Vinous. It was aged 15 months in 30% new oak. 

Light golden colored, medium bodied, golden apple, white peach and almonds with notes of citrus and crème fraîche with lively acidity and a long, nutty finish. 

RM 91 points.

Winemaker's Notes: "This is Dierberg Vineyard classic. For those familiar with the vineyard’s Chardonnay, there will be plenty to like in this wine. Its purity of fruit is deep but quiet, leaning on stone fruit and citrus expressions with only a hint of tropical notes in the background. The palate has a wonderful broad feel that connotes California, but never strays away from its backbone of refreshing acidity. Fermented in 400L French oak puncheons, 20% new, 50% malo." 

Dierberg Santa Maria Valley Dierberg Vineyard Pinot Noir 2016

This was rated 93 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and 92 points by Vinous

Ruby colored, medium bodied, complex, tangy dark berry and black cherry fruits, earth, tobacco, smoke and incense.

Winemaker notes: "The 2016 Pinot Noir Dierberg Vineyard was aged 14 months in 35% new French oak. It's medium ruby with wonderful, layered perfume: dried rose petals, crushed herbs, woodsmoke, cranberry sauce, warm earth, red cherry preserves and hints of raspberries and orange peel.'
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"Deep garnet in color from the rim to its core. The nose begins with the sweet dampness of freshly opened potting soil followed by layers of black current, blackberries, caramilized blueberries, with fresh rose petals and violets. The palate showcases black cherry and black plum. Hints of cocoa and allspice weave between the nose as well as the flavor profile.  Soft, youthful tannin will mature into silk over time." 

Dierberg Santa Rita Hills Drum Canyon Vineyard Pinot Noir 2016

This was awarded 93 points by Wine Enthusiast, 92 by Wine Advocate, and 88 points by Wine Spectator.

This was dark garnet colored with medium body with black berry and black cherry and cranberry fruits with earth, bramble, smoke, pain grille and leather and hints of pepper and spice with fine grained tannins on a long finish. 

The 2016 Pinot Noir Drum Canyon Vineyard was made with 25% whole cluster and aged 16 months in 35% new French oak, 700 cases were produced.

Winemaker notes: "2016 was a straightforward vintage with moderate yields and a good pace to ripening.  Unlike 2015, the wines were not as obviously dense and masculine, and therefore we leaned a bit more on stem inclusion to ensure we built a structure that was supple and extended with firm tannins.  All in all, we had about 25% whole cluster in the final blend.  The wines were aged in about 35% new oak to add a bit of mid-palate texture before being bottled the following December." 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3115465

 

Dierberg Santa Barbara County Happy Canyon Star Lane Vineyard Syrah 2017

When Tyler Thomas joined Dierberg as winemaker, he brought a wealth of experience with Syrah from earlier work at Donelan Family Wines. There he produced numerous vineyard-designated labels from top sites ranging from cool to warm throughout Sonoma County. This prepared him for various Dierberg sites in Santa Barbara with Syrah planter in cooler Santa Maria Valley and the appreciably warmer Happy Canyon.

Tyler Thomas strives to produce Syrahs that “rather have the textural effect of oak than the aromatic.” To achieve this, he uses very little new oak and a large percentage of large 400-liter barrels with less oak surface area.

This was dark inky garnet colored, medium-full bodied, with black berry and black cherry and plum fruits with notes of dark spices, hints of pepper, licorice, expresso and leather.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3770346

Dierberg Star Lane Vineyard of Santa Barbara Happy Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon 2017

Winemaker notes: 2017 was an excellent growing season with moderate temperatures and healthy winter rain.  However, the vintage will likely be remembered for its heat during harvest, which impacted our coastal vineyards more than Star Lane.  The fruit from Star Lane did see more heat than recent vintages and early impressions suggested fruit would be forward. As a result we were careful with how tannin developed in the wine, and used a bit less new oak.  Cabernet Franc (5%), Petite Verdot (5%), Merlot (4%), and Malbec (1%) all contributed in 2017, used sparingly to add pleasure through increased complexity and balance of texture. 

Winemaker Tasting Notes:

In my time at Star Lane this may be the most fruit forward and open Cabernet Sauvignon since 2012. The wine shows the exposure to a warmer ripening season with bright red fruits a bit more forward than the usual blueberry notes of previous vintages.  All of this is achieved without compromising the “Star Lane-ness,” cool coastal sage notes that add complexity. Texture is sneaky: initial softness gives way to ample (but not overwhelming) tannin on the 2nd and 3rd sip.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3569046

 Dierberg Star Lane Vineyard "Astral" Santa Barbara Happy Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

This is the ultra-premium flagship label of Star Lane Vineyard. It is a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc. It was aged twenty months in 100% new French Oak. It was on offer for $125 per bottle. 

Winemaker Notes: "In 2005 we arrived at the concept of Astral after recognizing the exceptional quality of the hillside plantings near the top of the Star Lane Vineyard. These hillside blocks produce very low yields which create wines of considerable intensity and structure. Astral is comprised of the most extraordinary components from the vineyard in each vintage."

Astral Winemaker Notes: While a cool year the depth of flavor is reminescent of 2008 but with the structure of 2009. Rich fruit permitted extended time on skins with exceptional Cabernet from our hillside and own-rooted blocks. We only added a touch of Cabernet Franc for an extra layer.  The 2010 vintage was unseasonably cool from March to June setting up a delayed and cool ripening season. The cool early season weather was followed by moderate temperatures that promoted full maturity. The extended hang time in 2010 combined with cool temperatures promoted wines of freshness of flavor.

Winemaker Tasting Notes: Black-fruits and sweet floral (almost sage-like) emerge from the aromatics.
This wine continues to change as it sits in the glass. A rich core of fruit holds the structured tannins in check. We expect this wine to age well.

https://dierbergvineyard.com/

http://starlanevineyard.com/

https://twitter.com/dierbergteam 

@dierbergteam