Marquis Philips '9' Shiraz 2003

Marquis Philips '9' McLaren Vale/Padthaway  Shiraz 2003


For a Friday night bar-b-que rib dinner at home I pulled this Marquis Philips '9' Shiraz 2003, one of a few remaining from the oldest of a half dozen vintages we still hold of this wine crafted by Sparky and Sarah Marquis before they moved to Mollydooker fame. This bold expressive forward wine begs for the tangy spicy bar-b-cue and vica versa!

 As I wrote in my last review of this wine, last summer, this full-throttle intensely concentrated classic South Australian Shiraz burst on the scene in 2001 with direction from Robert Parker to 'run, don't walk' to your wineshop to buy this wine.  Marquis Philps was the result of a partnership between the highly respected South Australian viticulturists/winemakers, Sarah and Sparky Marquis and their importer, Dan Philips of the Grateful Palate. The Aussie - American partnership produced the whimsical Roogle character - half eagle and half kangaroo (shown on label left). The brand of Marquis Philips inexpensive wines immediately gained enormous success and a faithful following. Of course Sarah and Sparky Marquis went on to form the current follow-on brand/label Mollydooker.

While big, complex and concentrated, their '9' Shiraz has proven to be a wine to be consumed during its first 7-8 years of life as this eleven year old attests. This like others vintages held beyond ten years is showing its age as the intense fruit is giving way to a funkiness of non-fruit wood, leather and earth notes. My review back in 2004 noted the '03 was not as polished or delectable as the earlier vintage releases.

In their youth, they were big vibrant powerful wines with super rich, ripe luscious tongue-coating fruit. This release of  '9' was sourced from McLaren Vale (60%) and Padthaway (40%) in South Central Australia.

The 2003 Shiraz 9 at show the same at a dozen years as it did at eleven, still opaque dark garnet inky purple colored, full-bodied, complex,  intensely concentrated tongue coating notes of super ripe black currants and plum but the aging fruits are taking on notes of raisin and fig with tones of espresso roast, smoked meats and leather on the layer of mocha, burnt sugar with hints of anise and a finish of black and white pepper with a leathery texture on the lingering finish.

While Robert Parker and I gave this 93 points on release and in 2004, I give it 88 points at this stage of life and advise to drink it up.

https://www.cellartracker.com/notes.asp?iWine=17771

Henry's Drive Reserve Shiraz 2002

Henry's Drive Padthaway Reserve Shiraz 2002

I wrote about this producer, the Longbottom Family, and the rationale for the name and branding in a blogpost on Henry's Drive last summer. Wines from this producer during this era were crafted by none other than Sara and Sparky Marquis of Marquis Philips fame, and today, producers of the Mollydooker brand of wines, famously known for their cartoonish labels and wine names. This wine seems to be following the same aging trajectory as a 2003 vintage Marquis Philips label tasted a couple of weeks ago from this earlier blog posting.

Another blog posting from around that time indicates that the Henry's Drive Cabernet Sauvignon from this same vintage is aging well and holding very nicely at this same age.

My cellar records indicate we drank all six of our bottles of this wine and that only '04 vintage bottles remain but, alas, here is an '02 from the cellar. Good to find it and consume it before its too late.

This is clearly at the end of its drinking window as the berry fruits are turning to ripe raisin fig tones. My last review was in 2013 which remarked on the diminution of this wine from age relative to earlier consumption notes when it was young. Dark ink color - medium full bodied - lighter and much more subdued than my earlier tasting note record, which was six years ago.

In 2013 I wrote, "This was not the full, thick extracted fruit with huge mouth-feel fruit bomb from that review. It still has the same flavor profile of currant and blackberry, a tone of black cherry giving way to tones of tea and tobacco with a hint of smoky sweet oak and vanilla on the long lingering silky tannin finish. My '90' rating was significantly reduced from my earlier '94' back in 2005 suggesting its time to drink younger and drink remaining bottle (s) in the near term as they are past their prime and not improving."

Tonight this opened with a forward tone of pleasant sweet vanilla oakiness which burned off after a short while turning to the ripe raisin layer that is overtaking the fruits. The rest, as they say, is history. Drink up if you have any left.

RM 85 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4102

http://www.henrysdrive.com

Henry's Drive Padthaway South Australia Cabernet Sauvignon 2002

Henry's Drive Padthaway South Australia Cabernet Sauvignon 2002

I wrote about this wine in this blog back in July. Following our Penfold's tasting last week of several South Australia Cabernets or Cabernet/Shiraz', I pulled this aged twelve year old from the cellar for a comparison tasting. While we have literally hundreds of aged Napa Cabernets and Bordeaux in our cellar, we only have a few aged Australian Cabernets, so I was interested to taste one and see how they are aging.

This bottle had aged very nicely and was still holding its fruit and accents with no sign of diminution, contrary to earlier tasting of this release. This was nicely balanced, smooth and complex and could have passed for a left bank Bordeaux in a blind tasting. Dark blackish purple colored, medium bodied, black berry and black raspberry fruits were accented by layers of earthy leather, spice and cedar with moderately firm tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=15376

Henry's Drive Padthaway Cabernet Sauvignon 2002

Henry's Drive Padthaway South Australia Cabernet Sauvignon 2002

Like so many Australian producers, the Longbottom Family show they have a sense of humor, a bit of whimsey and honor their heritage as Henry's Drive is named after the nineteenth century mail coach driver, Henry John Hill, who drove the horse drawn stage coach that delivered passengers and mail to the property during that earlier era. Established in 1998 by Mark and Kim Longbottom, the property is in the Padthaway region in the southeast of of South Australia along what is known as the Limestone Coast. The first vines were planted at Henry's Drive in 1992. Mark passed in 2008, but Kim continues to operate the vineyards and winery in tribute to him. The postal theme is continued in the wine range with labels such as the Postmistress, Dead Letter Office and Pillar Box Red.

This wine was crafted by none other than Sara and Sparky Marquis of Marquis Philips fame from the days of this vintage, and today, producers of the Mollydooker brand of wines, famously known for their cartoonish labels and wine names. This wine seems to be following the same aging trajectory as a 2003 vintage Marquis Philips label tasted a couple of weeks ago.

Today, Henry’s Drive winemaking team is headed by Renae Hirsch who has also held winemaking positions in France, Germany, the US, in addition to Australia, in large and small scale operations

The fruit is sourced from 250 acres of Longbottom family owned estate vineyards in Padthaway, and another 30 acres planted in McLaren Vale. The vineyards are planted in Verdelho, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Shiraz, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon varietals. We've held their Shiraz, Shiraz Reserve, a Shiraz Cabernet blend, and this Cabernet Sauvignon which is no longer produced under this label. I favor their Shiraz and look forward to some day trying their flagship 'Magnus' Shiraz, a single vineyard designated wine produced as a tribute to Mark.

Drank at home with grilled steaks, its time to drink up this twelve year old as my rating has fallen off two points from my earlier reviews in '07 and '04 as the fruit is starting to diminish. Dark garnet colored with medium body, the rich ripe forward dark cherry and currant fruits are starting to give way to a layer of leather and sage, still accented by kirsch, anise, and hints of black pepper.

RM 87 points.

http://www.henrysdrive.com

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=15376

Marquis Philips '9' McLaren Vale Shiraz 2003

Marquis Philips '9' McLaren Vale Shiraz 2003

We took this to Angeli's, our local Italian eatery to drink with a savory meal, and finished it at our holiday barbecue at son Ryan's and Michelle's.

 This full-throttle intensely concentrated classic South Australian Shiraz burst on the scene in 2001 with direction from Robert Parker to 'run, don't walk' to your wineshop to buy this wine.  Marquis Philps was the result of a partnership between the highly respected South Australian viticulturists/winemakers, Sarah and Sparky Marquis and their importer, Dan Philips of the Grateful Palate. The Aussie - American partnership produced the whimsical Roogle character - half eagle and half kangaroo (shown on label left). The brand of Marquis Philips inexpensive wines immediately gained enormous success and a faithful following. Of course Sarah and Sparky Marquis went on to form the current follow-on brand/label Mollydooker.

While big, complex and concentrated, their '9' Shiraz has proven to be a wine to be consumed during its first 7-8 years of life as this eleven year old attests. This like others vintages held beyond ten years is showing its age as the intense fruit is giving way to a funkiness of non-fruit wood, leather and earth notes. My review back in 2004 noted the '03 was not as polished or delectable as the earlier vintage releases.

In their youth, they were big vibrant powerful wines with super rich, ripe luscious tongue-coating fruit. This release of  '9' was sourced from McLaren Vale (60%) and Padthaway (40%) in South Central Australia.

The 2003 Shiraz 9 at eleven years of age is still opaque inky purple-colored, full-bodied, complex,  intensely concentrated tongue coating notes of super ripe currants, plum but the aging fruits are taking on notes of raisin and fig with tones of espresso roast, smoked meats and leather on the layer of mocha, burnt sugar with hints of anise and white pepper. It has leathery texture on the lingering finish.

While Robert Parker and I gave this 93 points on release and in 2004, I give it 88 points at this stage of life and advise to drink it up.

https://www.cellartracker.com/notes.asp?iWine=17771

Aussie Shiraz Standoff - Henry's Drive Padthaway Reserve Shiraz 2002 vs. Flinders Run Southern Flinders Ranges Shiraz 2006

Heavyweight standoff between two Aussie Shiraz'  - A comparison tasting with a surprising outcome.
 
Henry's Drive Padthaway Reserve Shiraz 2002

Very different profile than my earlier review of this wine. It shows dark ink color - medium full bodied - lighter and much more subdued than my earlier tasting note record, which was six years ago. This was not the full, thick extracted fruit with huge mouth-feel fruit bomb from that review. It still has the same flavor profile of currant and blackberry, a tone of black cherry giving way to a hint of caramel and a slight layer of 'heat' eucalyptus with a smoky sweet oak and vanilla on the long lingering silky tannin finish. It was a nice accompaniment to artisan cheeses - hearty sharp cheddar, Bellavitano and Blue. 


RM 90 points.


My notes indicate I bought this wine out of state upon release before it was rated. Nice surprise when I went to pick it up eighteen months later after the RP rating and the price had nearly doubled. 


http://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4102

My earlier tasting journal notes from July, 2005 -

"Wow. Reminiscent of my reviews of Marquis Phillips '9', but on steroids. No wonder since Sparky Marquis is also the winemaker of this monstrous wine as well. Dark, full, thick extracted fruit - huge mouth-full of currant and blackberry gives way to caramel and creme brulee burnt sugar with a smoky sweet oak and vanilla finish."
RM  July 31 2005.

My '90' rating was significantly reduced from my earlier '94' back in 2005 suggesting this is a wine to drink younger and that its time to drink remaining bottle (s) in the near term as they are past their prime and not improving.  

 Flinders Run Southern Flinders Ranges Shiraz 2006

Not a fair fight matching this heavyweight against the middleweight above. This is a huge wine that overpowered the Henri's Drive Reserve above - a huge surprise given the earlier tasting experience and review of that wine. This is more obtuse, such that the Henri's Drive comes across as smooth and polished by comparison.

The Flinders presented dark inky garnet color, full bodied with a huge mouthfeel of forward chewy spicy ripe plum, blackberry, blueberry and notes of licorice, toasty oak and mocha followed by a long, pure finish. Slight glycerin and mineral edge up front detract from the fruit a bit. Not quite as smooth as the 2005 vintage but delicious none-the-less. This is a big wine, not for the feint of heart!

RM 91 points.

http://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=579974 



Tasted at home with Tom L and Danny A - get acquainted meeting launching next chapter and MPN frontal assault on the Fed!