Angeli’s Italian dining and BYOB in Naperville

Angeli’s Italian dining and BYOB in Naperville 

Dining with friend and former protege/colleague Tom O, visiting from NY/NJ, we dined at our usual meeting point, Angeli’s Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria, in Naperville (IL). 

For starters he had the Caesar salad and we shared the antipasto Fried Calamari, which was excellent as usual. 

For dinner entrees, Tom ordered the Angry Butterfly Shrimp, and coming off the same dish and similar wine pairing at another ristorante, for comparison as shared in this blogpost - Pazzo Italian dining in Destin, I had the Saltimbocca. 

For a wine accompaniment with the dinner,  I took, BYOB from our home cellar this Nebbiolo‘d’Alba Nebbiolo. 

Cellar records shows this is the second bottle to be consumed out of four that I acquired late last year. I wrote about this producer and label in an earlier tasting note blogpost at that time, excerpted here. Tonight’s tasting was consistent with that earlier tasting. 

Valmaggiore Sandrone Nebbiolo d’Alba 2022

This is from the Sandrone family winery in the town of Vezza d'Alba, from their 66 acres of vineyards spread between Langa and Roero, one of the most iconic producers in the Barolowine region.

Luciano Sandrone learned viticulture from the early age of 14 or 15. After years of work as a cellarman he depleted his life savings and purchased his first vineyard on the Cannubi hill in 1977, managing his land on the weekends while continuing to work his ‘day job’. He produced his first vintage in 1978, in the garage of his parents, continuing at home every vintage until 1999, when the winery he constructed in 1998 was ready for use.

Through 50 year of harvests, he focuses on the native Barolo region varietals: Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto, crafted in a portfolio of six red wines.

The estate is situated in an amphitheater in the Roero zone, in the town of Vezza d'Alba, on the left bank of the Tanaro river on the concave Valmaggiore hill, facing the south, the steep slopes have full exposure to the sun, with soft and sandy soil. 

Valmaggiore Sandrone Nebbiolo d’Alba 2022

This is 100% Nebbiolo, designated Nebbiolo d'Alba DOC. During the harvested six separate passes were make to bring in fruit at optimal ripeness. It was fermented from indigenous yeasts, with maceration and fermentation in open steel tanks, and aged in French Oak tonneaux of 500 liters for 9 months before release. This label was first produced in 1994, sourced from the Valmaggiore estate vineyard in Roero,  in the village of Vezza d'Alba. Production was 28,000 bottles.

It was rated 93 points by Decanter, Vinous and Jeb Dunnuck, and 92 points by James Sucklng, Wine Advocate and Kerrin O’Keefe. 

Winemaker Notes - “Valmaggiore is an exercise in restraint. It offers up pretty, uplifting aromas of red fruits, roses, white pepper and freshly-picked violets. On the palate, red fruits are front and center, framed by tobacco, spice and mineral notes. The tannins are both strong and soft yet give the wine its unmistakable mid-weight structure. The acidity is bracingly fresh, and the finish long and layered, with red fruits, graphite and earth notes lingering.”

Bright but somewhat opaque ruby colored, medium-bodied, vibrant, smooth, structured, fresh ripe red raspberry and cherry fruits with notes of nutmeg, clove spice, rosehip tea, orange peel, earth and dusty rose with hints of kirsch on a long moderate silky tannin and fresh acidic laced finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?5011990

https://www.sandroneluciano.com/en/web/collezione/valmaggiore/annata/2022.php?lev1=5&coll=5a&year=2022&coll=0

https://www.sandroneluciano.com/

https://angeliscatering.com/

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2026/04/valmaggiore-sandrone-nebbiolo-with-pizza.html

Bruna’s Ristorante Little Italy Chicago

Bruna’s Restaurant Wine and Dinner in Little Italy Chicago 

In town for a weekend including seeing the Cubs vs. Yankees at Wrigley Field, Sis/bro-in-laws Pat & Rodger joined us for dinner at Bruna’s Ristorante in the historic Little Italy restaurant row, Chicago. 

We had alternate plans but leaving the ballpark, we called ahead and secured a table for early dinner. 

It turned out to be the only table available as the restaurant filled up completely over the course of the next hour after our anrrival.

We featured Bruna’s, their history, menu and extensive winelist in more detail in these pages in this earlier blogpost last autumn - Wine & Dinner at Bruna’s in Chicago’s Little Italy.

Before dinner we had Bruna’s daily specials, Arancini and Zuchini Blossoms, and dinner salad. 

For our dinner entrees, we ordered Eggplant Parmigiana, Veal Parmigiana and their signature Veal Saltimbuca.

 

For a wine accompaniment, I ordered from the extensive primarily Italian winelist, Capparella Sole Olena, which it turned out was out of stock, so, I ordered the Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montaclino. 

Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 2019

One of the original estates of Montalcino, Tenuta Col d'Orcia is situated in the village of Sant'Angelo on the outskirts of the medieval hilltop village of Montalcino in Tuscany’s Siena province. The estate dates back to the 1700’s and in 1973, was purchased by the Cinzano family and continues to be owned and managed by Count Francesco Marone Cinzano. Since acquiring the estate, he has upgraded the facilities and substantially increased the vineyard holdings to now be the third largest owner of Brunello vineyards in Montalcino. 

The estate’s name Col d’Orcia, translates to “the hill overlooking the Orcia River,” due to its position in the undulating hills between the Orcia River and Sant’Angelo in Colle. 

The estate includes vineyards, gardens, olive groves, tobacco and wheat fields and is one of the most prolific wineries in Montalcino producing Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino as well as olive oil, grappa and even a Moscadello di Montalcino.  

The estate covers around over 1300 acres of which 350 acres are planted to vineyards spread over several varying terrains, with 275 acres planted with the primary Brunello varietal, Sangiovese. The Poggio Al Vento vineyard is one of the premier sites and sources the Riserva wines bearing the same name. The vineyards of the Tenuta Col d'Almost all Orcia are located on the south-eastern slope of the Monte Amiata where powerful and long-lasting plants produce fruits notable for their vibrant acidity.

The sites enjoy a southern orientation that provides the vines with abundant sunshine and vineyard soils of limestone and marl. The located at about 1500 feet above sea level, in the foothills against Mount Amiata (5,700 feet), it protects them from floods and hail. The climate is typically Mediterranean, with limited rainfall coming in from the Tyrrhenian coast, 21 miles away.

The estate is equipped with state-of-the-art technology, and has an ageing hall for storing Slavonian oak and Allier oak barrels. Fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled steel tanks.

Tenuta Col d'Orcia produces about 800,000 bottles annually, exporting about 80 percent of its production to 70 countries generating annual turnover of is around 5.5 million euros, and according to their statements, are the largest winery in Tuscany.

Col d'Orcia was recognised internationally at the Wine Enthusiast's Annual Wine Star Awards in 2026, receiving the "Environmental Advocate of the Year" award. 

Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 2019

This release was awarded 95 points by Wine Enthusiast, 94 points by Decanter, Jeb Dunnuck, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator, and 93 points by James Suckling and Vinous.

Winemaker Notes “The ample and complex bouquet leads with small, ripe red fruits such as cherry and blackberry. It is well integrated with the oak and vanilla aromas from the long refinement in wood. Full-bodied and balanced, the excellent structure and the enveloping tannic texture reveal a fruity and lasting finish. The finish, enhanced by a good sapidity, recalls the same aroma notes.”

Bright ruby colored, full bodied, fruit forward and round with vibrant, expressive ripe blackberry, dark cherry and plum fruits with notes of herb, sweet tobacco, earthy dusty rose, and hints of cedar and leather, turning to elegant smooth full, polished tannins on the lingering finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/n?12698389

https://coldorcia.it/ https://coldorcia.it/en/home

We were served by their journeymen professional staff, some who have been with the restaurant for decades. Following dinner we enjoyed sitting with owner Luciano Silvestri discussing the winelist and menu selections. 

https://www.brunasristorante.com/

Wine & Dinner at Bruna’s in Chicago’s Little Italy

Wine & Dinner at Bruna’s Ristorante in Chicago’s Little Italy for classic authentic Italian cuisine and wine 

We ventured into the city (Chicago) to attend grand-daughter’s traveling soccer game in the Pilsen, ‘heart of Chicago’ neighborhood with views of the spectacular skyline in the distance. 

After the game, we ventured in to the historic ‘Little Italy’ ‘business’ neighborhood of south Oakley street for dinner. For literally decades, we’ve traveled to Taylor Street, the traditional popular ‘Little Italy’ restaurant district, as we watched the diminishment and closure of the classic historic trattorias there over the years. Indeed, the remaining restaurant that we now frequent there is Chez Joel, a classic French bistro. 

I’m frustrated and regret that somehow we missed or lost track of, and have overlooked this historic Italian ‘business’ neighborhood on South Oakley street, that still features no less than five historic authentic Italian restaurants clustered together on this street. Linda reminded me we dined there together with friends no less than thirty years ago. And, before that, she worked for a brief period just four blocks away and used to dine there with colleagues from work.  

We were delighted to rediscover this historic neighborhood that had blocked off South Oakley street between 24th Street and 24th Place to accommodate dinners on this exceptional, spectacular end of summer, autumn evening.    

We dined at Bruna’s Ristorante, situated on the corner of 24th Place and Oakley. Opened by Bella ‘Bruna’ Cani  in 1933 – the same year prohibition was repealed, it is the third-oldest Italian restaurant in Chicago. (Of course readers of these pages know we feature often Italian Village, THE oldest Italian Restaurant in Chicago.)

The story goes that when Bruna wasn’t cooking for her patrons, Bruna would dance on the bar while her customers sang. Bruna’s legacy continued as, until recently, you could find her daughter Marylyn (Mickey), who passed away in 2013 at the age of 94, relaxing on a neighborhood bench when the weather was right.

Bruna sold the restaurant in 1981 to Luciano Silvestri who shared her same heritage, being from the central Italian region of Tuscany, and shared a passion for authentic Italian food. Luciano still prepares many of Bruna’s original recipes, while also introducing several of his own family’s prized Italian dishes.

Current owner Luciano is a native of Siena, Italy, and has worked in the restaurant industry from a young age, working extensively in Switzerland and London. Before coming to Chicago in 1977, Luciano worked at the renowned Villa d’Este resort in Como, Italy, as well as on the Sitmar and Princess cruise lines.

Today, Bruna’s offers a wide assortment of pasta dishes, tender veal, and, of course, Bella Bruna’s original roast chicken recipe, still served every Sunday. They also boast what many say is the city’s best tiramisu, which Luciano makes himself.

Luciano remains involved greeting customers as well as pouring wine and making espresso.

We dined al fresco on the barricaded street, set up with the tables for diners from the group of restaurants up and down the block on both sides of the street.  

Following fresh Italian bread with virgin Olive Oil and fresh parmigiana cheese, Linda ordered from the classic authentic Italian menu for her entree, the appetizer bowl of fresh mussels in white wine sauce. 

We were served by Josef who has been on the waitstaff there for a mere seventeen years, having also worked previously at the legendary former Como Inn, another Chicago Italian cuisine institution in its day. He followed his father who also served in the notable Italian restaurants in the city and the neighborhood. 

At Josef’s recommendation, I ordered from the Chef’s Specialties, Veal Saltimbocca Alla Romana from the broad selection of Veal and Chicken dishes on offer, along with a side dish of Fettucini Alfredo.

Bruna’s offers an extensive wine list featuring mainly Italian wines with some Californian selections. Bruna’s also imports a Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, a wine made near Luciano’s Italian hometown which is offered by the glass and by the bottle.

They also offer a full page Reserve “Cellar Selections” that includes many classic premier Italian producers and labels including Biondo Santi, Casanova de Neri, Masseto, Gaja, Solaia, Sassicaia, Ornellaia, Valdicava and Tignanello. 

The Cellar Selections Reserve list also offered well known super premium American California classics including Dominus, Quintessa, Phelps Insignia, Opus One, Schafer Hillside, Caymus Special Select, Plumpjack, Far Niente, Groth Reserve and Darioush. 

We ordered this classic traditional Chianti Classico Sangiovese as a perfect wine accompaniment to our Italian cuisine. 

Isole e Olena "Cepparello" Toscana 2018

This highly regarded Isole e Olena is from producer/winemaker Paolo de Marchi. Isole e Olena is named for the formation of the two estates that were purchased by the De Marchi family in the 1950s. 

Fourth generation winemaker Paolo De Marchi studied Agriculture at the University of Turin and worked harvests in California and France before returning to the family estate in 1976. He improved the property in the Chianti Classico region through redevelopment and modernization.

De Marchi earned a reputation as “Mr. Sangiovese” and also the “Dean of Chianti” gaining notoriety balancing tradition with innovation by planting international varieties. 

This label of Cepparello was first produced in 1980 and is widely acclaimed as one of the greatest expressions of Sangiovese.  

He sold the estate and completed his last vintage for Isole e Olena in 2022 after 50 years. His final releases got rave reviews with ratings in the high nineties - the 2021 getting 99 points from James Suckling, 97 from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, and 96 points from Wine Spectator. 

Winemaker notes and description of the complex 2015 Cepparello: “Shows lots of black cherries, cranberry tea, caramelized orange peel, roasted herbs and citrus peel. Full-bodied with ripe and quite round tannins that frame layers of cherries. Bright and fresh, yet rich and long at the same time. The Sangiovese character really springs out of the glass.”

This 2018 Isole e Olena "Cepparello" Toscana was rated 96 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, 95 points by James Suckling, 94 points by Decanter and Vinous, and 92 by Kerrin O’Keefe.

This was my first experience with this producer and I’ll be on the lookout for it in the future while the current era vintages are still available. 

Dark red/purplish colored, full bodied, rich, concentrated, bold, bright expressive bright dried cherry and dark berry fruits, notes of cassis, balsam herb spice, lavender finishing with menthol and exprsso with round tannins on a savory slightly aggressive expressive finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3956336

We moved to dessert - Linda ordered the Cannoli and I had the Tiramisu. Both were delicious. Linda raved about the Cannoli - said it was the best ever!

https://www.brunasristorante.com/