Hemingway’s Bistro Oak Park (IL) WBTG

Hemingway’s Bistro Oak Park (IL)

Following Preview Night for volunteers working FLWright Plus, the annual historic homes house walk, we dined at Hemingway’s Bistro in Oak Park.

More than 400 volunteers work the front lines and behind the scenes to present historic and architecturally significant homes to nearly 3000 guests in this annual event hosted by the Frank Lloyd Wright Trust.

By closing of the night’s festivities preparing for the big day to follow, we were able to secure a table for the late evening second seating. We selected a couple of pleasant drinking wines by the glass (WBTG) from the limited but carefully crafted wine list. 

Being from the east coast, Tom O, in from New Jersey to work the event, had the soft shell crab, one of the daily specials. This was artfully prepared and delectable and met his high expectations and standards for this special dish, and was the culinary highlight of the evening. 

I ordered another of the daily specials, the Walleye, served in a lemon butter Beau Blanc sauce with fingerling potatoes and asparagus tips. The portion was modest and the preparation, sauce and overall presentation were slightly bland and generally uninspiring, but acceptable in every respect. 

Linda ordered the small plate entree Crab Cake, which was enjoyable. 

For a wine accompaniment, Linda tasted from the WBTG menu this French Burgundian Chardonnay. 

Campet Ste Marie Pays d’Oc Chardonnay 2023

Nice QPR - (Quality Price Ratio) can be found in the Campet Ste Marie range of labels, which are named after the specific terroir in which the grapes are grown. They are sourced from small and hilly vineyards, that the French call “Campets”. 

This is from the Pays d’Oc appellation in the Languedoc-Roussillon region of southern France. The term “Pays d’Oc” means “country of the Occitan language,” which is spoken in this region.

Pays d’Oc wines are known for producing high-quality, affordable wines that are easy to drink and pair well with a variety of foods.

The Languedoc-Roussillon region created this catch all IGP region in 1987 to  designate the vast number of vineyards within the territory that were not in designated AOC (Appellation Original Controlle) status appellations (e.g. Corbières, Minervois, Faugères, Picpoul de Pinet, Côtes de Roussillon, etc.). 

Vin de Pays d'Oc has 4 sub-regions: Gard, Hérault, Aude & Pyrénées-Orientales. When the sub-region is used on the label, it will say Vin de Pays de l'Aude, for example.

Wines that carry the Vin de Pays d'Oc designation must be made from grape varieties that are authorized for the region and must meet specific production standards, but are subject to far fewer restrictions than AOC designations which have strict requirements as to which grapes can be used, as well as how they should be blended, how long the wines must be aged, etc., 

Pays d’Oc wines include red (50%), white (30%), and rosé (20%) wines, and can be made from the 58 grape varietals cultivated in the area which primarily include Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre for red wines, and Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Viognier for white wines. The wines can be produced in single varietals or blends. 

The vast Occitania region in Languedoc and Roussillon has nearly 20,000 winegrowers  working as both independent and co-operative wineries across four sub-regions – Hérault, Gard, Pyrénées-Orientales and Aude – and six localities in Lozère.

While the area under vine in all of France is reported by Vitisphere to be 745,000 ha, the Appellation d’Origine Protégée (AP) vineyards total 446,000ha, while all France’s IGPs amounted to 195,000ha. In comparison, the Pays d’Oc IGP alone has 120,000ha under vine accounting for 20% of total French wine production. The largest of the four regions (Hérault) produced 4 million hectolitres in 2017 – more than the whole of Bordeaux (3.6m hl).

The vast Pays d’Oc wine region stretches over 120,000 hectares, and is divided into three climatic zones that influence the viticulture for wine grape: the maritime plains along its coastal area; the lowlands and rolling hills or ‘soubergues’; and lastly, the high altitude vineyards in the chain of mountains to the North, formed by the Pyrenees to the West, and the foothills of the Cévennes to the East. 

The sunny Mediterranean climate influence is due to the amphitheatre shaped opening to the Mediterranean Sea; it arches around the 200 kilometres coastline formed by the Gulf of Lions, from Nîmes via the Camargue and the Vermilion coast to the Spanish border. 

The incredible diversity of soils across the Pays d’Oc wine region range from sandy soils along the coast to limestone, schist, clay or gravelly pebbles along the valley floors and hillsides. 

This wine was rated 90 points by Wine Enthusiast in their review - “A complex nose with reserved and well-integrated aromas of Bosc pear, pastry crust, brioche and grilled red-apple slice leads into subtle vanilla spice, freshly grated nutmeg and lemon tart on the palate. A complementary streak of toasted acidity provides an underbelly of elegant restraint.”  — Reggie Solomon

The Winemaker’s Notes - "This buttery and round Chardonnay has been selected by our winemaker within protected vineyards in the south of the Pays d’Oc appellation where the vines are planted in cooler areas, and on small lands (Campet) which, in the 19th century were surrounding the wineries. The resulting wine is a Burgundy style Chardonnay with ripe peach aromas combined to honey melon with subtle toasted notes. The taste is elegant and smooth with a wonderful thickness and a persistent finish.”

Light straw colored, light bodied, crisp clean, nuances of pear and apple with hints of brioche and brown spice with soft tangy acidity on the smooth finish. 

RM 89 points. 

With our entrees, Tom and I had from the WBTG menu this French Burgundian Pinot Noir. 

Louis Latour Marssanay 2022

This is from producer Maison Louis Latour, found in 1985, who has become one of the most prolific and highly-respected négociant-éléveurs in Burgundy. Maison Louis Latour produce some of the finest Burgundian wines, as have branched out to produce some fine wines from outside Burgundy in the emerging Ardèche and the Côteaux de Verdon sub-regions.

This label is from the northernmost area of the famous Côte de Nuits wine region, from the Marsannay appellation village, the only one in Burgundy to produce classified wines of all three colors: red (Pinot Noir), white (Chardonnay)— and rosé. The official Rosé de Marsannay earned its high reputation in the early 1900s. Marsannay received its Appellation Contrôlée in 1987.

This label was rated 93 points by James Suckling and 90 by Wine Spectator. 

Slightly opaque ruby colored, medium bodied, complex, earthy and floral, the black cherry and black berry fruits are accented with notes of spices, licorice, pepper and mineral with moderate polished tannins on the pleasant long finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.louislatour.com/en/wines/68/marsannay-rouge/2022

https://hemmingways-bistro.com/

Far Niente Chardonnay highlights seafood dinner at Hugo's Frogbar Naperville

Far Niente Chardonnay highlights seafood dinner at Hugo's Frogbar Naperville - Pan Seared Walleye rivals favorite memorable fresh seafood dishes - a retrospective ...

We joined son Ryan and his family for his birthday celebration dinner. at Hugo's Frogbar in Naperville (IL). 

Hugo’s Frog Bar & Fish House (Chicago) opened its doors in February 1997 in the heart of Chicago’s Gold Coast neighborhood, next to sister restaurant Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse. Since its founding in 1989 the iconic Gibson's Bar & Steakhouse on Rush Street has been the flagship of what has become the Gibson's Restaurant Group. 

Over the years the Gibson's Restaurant Group portfolio has grown - today they own and operate several distinguished concept restaurants throughout Chicagoland and beyond: Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse, Hugo’s Frog Bar & Fish House (three locations including downtown and Naperville), LUXBAR, Quartino Ristorante & Wine Bar, Gibsons Italia, The BOATHOUSE Orlando, Hugo’s Frog Bar & Chop House (on behalf of Rivers Casino), Bazaar Meat Chicago, Bar Mar, Café By The River and Chi Sox Bar & Grill (on behalf of the Chicago White Sox).

For over 20 years, owners Hugo Ralli and Steve Lombardo have strived to become the city’s finest seafood restaurant, Hugo’s, as a destination for premier east and west coast oysters, crudos, frog legs, lobster and seasonal fish and shellfish.

Hugo’s seafood is delivered daily, earning The New York Times to praise “the fish could only be fresher if it swam in by itself.” 

Despite being in the middle of the country, it's not only possible, but customary, to get the daily fresh catch seafood here in numerous seafood restaurants. Notably, besides Hugo's, Chinn's in the northwest suburbs, one of the top 25 grossing restaurants in the US, posts the Bills of Lading airbills in the entrance showing all the fresh seafood flown in overnight from a half dozen or more coasts - Alaska, Hawaii, Florida, New England, Atlantic Coast, California, Seattle and so on. His nephew's seafood restaurant Chinn's Fishery Seafood, here in our hometown Lisle, IL did the same thing before closing at the height of the Covid shut-down.  As such, rather than getting the locale fresh catch from any one market, you have a broad selection from the fresh catch from a half dozen or more markets for a broad selection and variety. 

Over the years, I wrote about Chinn's and the daily specials sourced from around the world in numerous blogposts, that last one being Sunday, March 10, 2019 when I wrote, Nickle & Nickle Chardonnay for Chinns Seafood Dinner.

I was hesitant to feature and highlight the seafood at Hugo's, having had a bad experience there with the Hudson Valley scallops last year, but, tonight they redeemed themselves with a surefire winner with four out of four delectable seafood selections.  

Tonight, we had a broad selection of four fresh seafood selections for our entree choices - Walleye, Salmon, Crab and Sea Bass. Mine was a very pleasant surprise, exceeding my lofty expectations. 

I ordered the Pan Seared Walleye with Grilled Asparagus, Lemon Butter & Toasted Almonds.

I chose this dish, hoping it might be in the meunière style that is my favorite preparation. Many of my posts in these pages commemorate memorable dinners with delectable seafood and wine pairings. Forgive me as I obsess here, reliving several dinners featuring this preparation offering.

Notice the recurring theme of pairing these dishes with a full bodied round Napa Valley Chardonnay, an optimal wine and food pairing for enhancement of both.

My absolute favorite seafood selection was always Petrale Sole, or when available, the seasonally limited Sand Dabs, aka Rex Sole, with white wine, lemon butter meunière sauce. This is primarily only found in the San Francisco Bay and Monterey Bay central coast of California. 

For several years, I commuted regularly to Silicon Valley, during which time this was my go-to regular meal every trip - the best being from Scott's Seafood, adjacent our offices in Palo Alto. Second, was Scoma's in San Francisco on the wharf and across the bay in Sausalito.

Tonight's preparation reminded me of fond memories of that Petrale Sole served in with white wine, lemon butter meunière sauce, a delight and high praise, indeed.

My next favorite fresh seafood selection would be Dover Sole, prepared in a similar way. I have many great memories, and postings in these pages from Il Postino Ristorante Italiano in New York City and their Dover Sole preparation: June 19, 2018 - Cakebread Cellars Napa Chardonnay with Dover Sole at Il Postino NYC, and again ....  June 27, 2018 - Cakebread Cellars Napa Chardonnay with Dover Sole at Il Postino NYC, and again ... April 15, 2018 - Cakebread Cellars Napa Chardonnay at Il Postino NYC - a trifecta! 

And, Dover Sole here locally in Chicago - January 22, 2020 - Post UGCB Dinner with Dover Sole Rosebud Chicago; and again November 9, 2022 - California 2013 Duo BYOB with Dover Sole at Vistro Hinsdale.

Finally, I would say my near favorite seafood dish is Flounder, and once again one of my favorite and memorable eateries for such is in New York - October 24, 2019 - Eataly NYC Flounder Seafood Dinner, and October 23, 2016 -Eataly New York Wine Dine Options.

 

And, another favorite local east coast eatery where we were somewhat regulars over the years -January 28, 2020 - Pouilly-Fuisse, Chiles Valley Cabernet with Sautéed Flounder Francaise at Idylwild Grill in Falls Church, VA.

So it was, tonight's Pan Seared Walleye was reminiscent of those earlier memorable dinners.

As a starter we shared the Beet Salad - Golden & Red Beets, Spring Mix, Shaved Fennel, Orange Segments, Goat Cheese, Candied Hazlenuts with Citrus Vinaigrette.

Our other entree selections - 

Jumbo Lump Crab Cake - a small portion as she ordered the appetizer rather than the larger portion entree.

Pan Roasted Miso Marinated Chilean Sea Bass - Wild mushrooms, sweet peas, & soy reduction

Grilled Faroe Island Salmon - Roasted Sweet Potato Hash, Spinach, & Bacon Jam

For our wine pairing we had a premium Napa Valley Chardonnay, from the same producer that we had just the other evening. 

Far Niente Napa Valley Coombsville Estate Chardonnay 2020

Just the other evening we had at home from our cellar, the Nickel & Nickel Napa Valley Truchard Vineyard Chardonnay, from their single vineyard designated portfolio of labels. Tonight's selection is the flagship, estate bottled appellation bottling from the 'parent' winery producer Far Niente.

Far Niente is one of Napa Valley’s most historic wineries, founded in 1885 by John Benson. It closed during the Prohibition era in 1919. Sixty years later, the property was bought and restored by Gil Nickle who released the first vintage of Far Niente wine in the modern era in 1979 - this estate-bottled Napa Valley Chardonnay. It has been a namesake to the winery for over four decades ever since.

The grapes are grown in the Coombsville AVA, known for its more temperate climate and volcanic ash soils that give Far Niente’s Chardonnay its signature stone and tropical fruit flavors with a crushed rock minerality. The wine does not go through malolactic fermentation in the production process, which preserves the crisper malic acid, providing extra freshness on the palate and extending the wine’s longevity for years of drinking pleasure.

Far Niente Chardonnay is a blend of several superior Napa Valley estate (producer owned) vineyards located in Coombsville, down at the bottom of the valley, a cooler growing region nestled in the rolling countryside and protected by the hills east of the city of Napa. 

Coombsville offers the characteristic climate of Carneros, with less wind, along with deeper, well-drained gravelly loam and volcanic ash soils. The combination of these spectacular vineyards results in the subtle, tropical flavors, complex aromas and uncommon richness that have long been associated with Far Niente Chardonnay.

This is a marriage of fruit from the cooler, bay-influenced vineyards in southern Napa Valley, crafted to combine fragrant citrus blossom aromatics, rich fruit flavors and a silky finish to every occasion.

Winemaker notes - "Richly aromatic with notes of white fig, and citrus blossom, this captivating Chardonnay slowly builds on the palate, progressing from silky notes of honeydew, nectarine and lemon zest to a full finish supported by elegant, toasted oak. Crisp minerality and juicy acidity lift and support the generous fruit and provide the framework for graceful aging. This wine will continue to gain richness and complexity in the bottle and glass."

Pale straw colored, medium bodied, complex expressive rich sprites of minerality, acidity and hazelnut overshadow the subdued honeydew fruit notes. 

RM 90 points. 

This release was awarded 91 Points by Wine Advocate.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4070961

https://farniente.com/

https://twitter.com/farnientewinery

https://www.hugosfrogbar.com/

https://twitter.com/HugosFrog

https://twitter.com/unwindwine

Reuling Sonoma Chardonnay Seafood Dinner

 Reuling Vineyard Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2012 with Seabass and Walleye Seafood Dinner

For the second time this week, for our Friday evening 'date night', we dined at Carnivore & The Queen Supper Club to take in their Friday Walleye Fish and Chips Special. We also tried the Seabass seared in white wine butter with shallots and preserved lemons. To accompany our seafood entrees we took BYOB from our cellar this Reuling Sonoma Coast Chardonnay. 

The 'Alterior Motive' locally brewed Beer battered Walleye was superb, even better than the Seabass entree at 1.5 times the price. At $25, it is pricey for 'fish and chips', but worth it. It was complemented by equally superb batter fried onion rings.  

This was the inaugural release of estate bottled Chardonnay from the famous vineyard owned by Tim and Jackie Reuling. It is one of the most lauded vineyards in the region having sourced fruit for notable Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. 

Timothy and Jackie purchased the 16-acre Reuling property in 1998 and planted 14.4 acres in 2000 to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. For over a decade, the vineyard was a source for top flight producers including Aubert Wines and Peter Michael Winery. Wines sourced from the property have been awarded as high as 99 points by Robert Parker. 

Joined by winemaker Matt Taylor, they began producing their own label wines. Previously Taylor was winemaker and vineyard manager for Araujo Estates and has worked with Joseph Swan Vineyards and Domaine Dujac. He considers the Reuling Vineyard to be one of the great vineyard sites in California.

The Reuling Vineyard initially gained notoriety by its association wtih Mark Aubert. Aubert grew up in Napa wine country where his parents owned a vineyard. After getting a degree from University of California at Fresno in 1985 he worked at Monticello. His winemaking career was propelled by his association with legendary winemaker Helen Turley. He served a 12-year stint at Peter Michael where he followed Helen Turley and was appointed head winemaker there at 28 years old. Aubert succeeded Turley again several years later at Colgin Cellars. 

 Since then, Aubert has been a winemaking consultant for several prestigious wineries including Sloan, Bryant and Futo. He launched his own brand in 1999 and his vineyard-designated Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays quickly received critical acclaim. Aubert released his own wines with the 2000 vintage crafted from estate and leased vineyards in the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast. 

 

 

Reuling Sonoma Coast Vineyard Chardonnay 2012

At eight years of age, this Chardonnay was at its apex and probably at the end of its peak drinking window, not likely to improve, but rather to start to diminish with further aging so its time to drink up. 

Wine Enthusiast gave this release 94 points and a "Cellar Selection" saying "this is one to cellar 2019-2024".

Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar gave it 91 points, Connoisseurs Guide 90 points.

This was straw colored, medium bodied, with an interesting aroma and flavor tone of what I was having trouble characterizing, describing it as corn with hints of smoke. 

Later I read the Cellartracker post by Slywka from Conneticut who is a Certified Sommelier. Lo and behold, he wrote, "Aromas of nut, buttered popcorn, papaya and hint of flowers. Flavors of buttered popcorn, mango, vanilla, mineral and touch of banana. Ends with a buttered popcorn infused finish of 25+ seconds." He pegged what I was struggling to describe, that flavor of 'buttered popcorn". The rest of his tasting note sums it up aptly and well. 

Slywka gave it 93 points. I gave it 90, detracted by the non-fruit corn notes and hints of smoke. RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1788461

https://carnivoreandthequeen.com/  

@QueenCarnivore