Arnaut Avenida Boushey Vineyard Columbia Valley Syrah

Arnaut Avenida Boushey Vineyard Columbia Valley Syrah

Sunday evening dinner, we dined in and eagerly opened this just acquired highly regarded Columbia Valley Syrah. I admit I’d never heard of this producer or this highly acclaimed vineyard source, hence I was curious to try this highly rated label that I picked up at Binny’s, our ‘big box’ beverage superstore.

Arnaut Avenida Boushey Vineyard Columbia Valley Syrah 2017

Avennia is the partnership project of entrepreneur Marty Taucher and winemaker Chris Peterson, founded in 2009 based on core principles; “a passionate commitment to signature vineyards and natural processes in the cellar - resulting in timeless, world class wines that are solely and undeniably Washington”. 

This approach and objective is similar to another high profile Washington State producer, Long Shadows, and their Vintners Collection Series of labels, which we love, and have collected as wine club members since discovering them on our trip to the region back in 2017. 

Interesting, that like Long Shadows, Avennia also sources their fruit from contract growers, and promotes their brand through three different tasting rooms in three of the major Washington State wine areas, Woodinville, Walla Walla, at their sole estate vineyard site in the Red Mountain appellation in Yakima Valley. We visited both the Woodinville and Walla Walla wine areas during trips to the region. 

In their first year of production, 2010, they acquired 16 tons of fruit that they transformed to wine that was ultimately released in 2012, Receiving much acclaim in that inaugural release, and affirming and building upon relationships in place with several of the state’s most legendary growers, the stage was set to secure the best fruit in the region for follow-on vintages. More than a decade later, the same core principles continue to guide the direction of the winery and the business.

Marty Taucher, Managing Partner, a native Oregonian, Marty graduated from Oregon State in 1977 and started at then upstart Microsoft in 1984. He went on to lead Public Relations and Event Marketing, then, spent his last five years as Director of Marketing and Brand Strategy for a consumer and online product group.

In 2009, Taucher signed on as a crush intern at DeLille Cellars where he met Chris Peterson and together they laid the plans for what is now Avennia.

Always inspired by new ideas and fresh thinking, Marty is an angel investor. He serves on numerous non-profit boards. When he’s not in the cellar, he’s an avid golfer, a world traveler, and a perfectly reliable

Chris Peterson, Winemaker/Partner was engaged in the Washington wine industry for more than a decade,  working to make some of the state’s most heralded and award-winning wines at DeLille Cellars. 

Together they founded Avennia with the quest to showcase Washington as a unique and compelling place for great wines, acquiring fruit from some of the finest vineyards in Washington, with a specific focus on the grape varieties used in Bordeaux and the Rhône, in light of their similar latitude to Washington, which makes them a natural fit to excel there.

In thoughtfully choosing vineyard sites to match their winemaking style and preferences, they chose not only the vineyard sources themselves, but down to our favorite vineyard blocks. There is an emphasis on older vines, and moderate climates, as these features tend to create wine with more depth and complexity—a balance between fruit and non-fruit characteristics. 

They strive to craft wine that is balanced and harmonious - the fruit, acid, tannin, perhaps oak. 

Avennia "Arnaut - Boushey Vineyard" Yakima Valley Syrah 2017 

The 2017 Syrah Arnaut Boushey Vineyard is 100% Syrah from Dick Boushey's highly regarded vineyard on the western side of the Yakima Valley AVA, considered one of the state's premier Syrah vineyards. 

This is a cooler site, that tends to instill Northern Rhone-like character in the fruit. Dick Boushey was the first grower with whom Avennia partnered. 

From the Boushey site they source three different varieties which go into the three flagship wines. Boushey is best known for Yakima Valley Syrah and Avennia is the only winery that uses both of the oldest blocks of his coveted fruit. The combination of these two Syrah blocks makes up this Arnaut, a wine we have made since our first vintage, 2010. 

The older, called Grand Côte (meaning "great hillside”), produces wine that is piercingly pure and focused, with meaty and mineral aromas backing up its deep blackberry and damson plum fruit flavors. Wines from the second block, Factory Road, show richer body and feature savory cured meat notes, along with orange peel, and a distinct iron note. 

This release was awarded 95 points by Decanter, 93 pints by Jeb Dunnuck and Vinous, and 92 points by Robert Parker and Wine Enthusiast, an Editor’s Choice. 

Aged 18 months in 15% new French oak. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. Case production was 354 caees

Winemaker's Tasting Notes - "This vintage brings an exceptional level of finesse to Arnaut, but no shortage of the wild, savory aspects we expect from this wine. The nose features, blueberry, salted blackberry, charcoal-grilled pork chop, asphalt, bittersweet chocolate, bee pollen, and a hint of grapefruit pith. Rich and beautifully textured on the palate, with pure Boushey notes of blueberry reduction, bacon fat, cacao nibs, charcoal embers, and grilled thyme. The elegance here hints at this wine drinking well on release, and it should age nicely for 8-12 years." - Chris Peterson, Winemaker

Dark garnet colored, medium to full-bodied, black berry and black raspberry fruits are layered with intense almost obtuse notes of black pepper with accents of creosote, dark spices, black olive, black tea, garrigue, and cigar leaf.

RM 91

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3277603

https://avennia.com/

Mark Ryan 'Long Haul' Red Mountain Red Blend

Mark Ryan 'Long Haul' Red Mountain Columbia River Red Blend 2013

Following the Columbia Valley Spring Valley Vineyard Frederick Red Bordeaux Blend 2013 earlier this week, I pulled from the cellar another label from the region from the same vintage for a comparison tasting. Tonight I selected this Mark Ryan Red Mountain Red Blend, another Right Bank Bordeaux Blend. 

We discovered and acquired Mark Ryan wines when we visited their tasting room in Woodinville, WA during our Seattle Woodinville Culinary Wine Experience back in 2018.

(Son) Ryan and Linda - Woodinville, 2018

Mark Ryan McNeilly founded Mark Ryan Winery in 1999 with the goal to produce the quality wines achievable from Washington State vineyard sources. Largely self-taught, Mark learned winemaking through study and mentorship from some of the area's most experienced producers. 

Mark Ryan produces a broad portfolio of wines that can be found in distribution and are served from their tasting room in Woodinville, an epicenter of more than a hundred tasting rooms of Washington State producers, since most of the vineyards are located hours away in remote locations of Central Washington State. 

This label, Long Haul was one of his first vintage releases, produced crushed and pressed in garages of friends and family, barrel in warehouses in the Seattle area. He opened the Woodinville, WA facility in 2003.  

Like many of the Woodinville and region's producers, Mark Ryan sources its fruit from growers of the large established vineyards. Many of these are long established relationships under contracts for specific rows of a vineyard or blocks. While not Estate wines, where the grapes are sourced from producer owned sites, it offers the next best thing. This consistent sourcing is important and essential if one is to reflect Terroir, the unique essence of climate, soil, site, as it manifests itself in the wine, consistently over time, from vintage to vintage.  

The Long Haul label is a 'Right Bank' blends of Bordeaux varietals, meaning it is predominantly Merlot and Cabernet Franc making up the majority of the blend. The 2013 Long Haul is sourced from vineyards in the Red Mountain AVA in the Yakima River Valley, a Columbia River tributary in Central Washington, the smallest appellation in the state.

Despite what its name suggests, it is actually neither a mountain nor is it composed of red earth. Instead, the name is derived due to the cheatgrass which is prolific and covers the area in springtime, which has a reddish color, hence the area the name, "Red" Mountain. 

The appellation sits on the eastern edge of Yakima Valley with slopes facing southwest towards the Yakima River, ideal for the ripening of grapes and is a notable source of top quality red grapes among premier Washington producers.

Red Mountain fruit produces some of the most mineral-driven, tannic and age-worthy red wines of Washington. This is due to its terroir with a climate that is one of the hottest in the region with normal growing season temperatures commonly reaching above 90F. The soil is particularly poor in nutrients and has a high pH, which results in significantly smaller berry sizes compared to varietal norms. This results in a low juice to skin ratio in smaller berries. This combined with the strong, dry summer winds, leads to higher tannin levels in Red Mountain grapes.

Mark Ryan 'Long Haul' Red Mountain Columbia River Red Blend 2013

 

This label is comprised of fruit from three of most prolific well-known vineyards in the region. This release is composed primarily of Merlot from the legendary Ciel du Cheval Vineyard planted on calcium-rich clay beds that give the wine a rich, delicate texture and feminine aromatics. 

 

Combined in the blend are grapes from the equally renowned Force Majeure Vineyard, a relatively younger, high elevation site, which provides rich fruit with bold structure. 

 

The other vineyard source is Yakima Valley’s Red Willow Vineyard that contributes aromatics and depth and complexity to the blend. 

 

The reds of the area tend to express dark black and blue fruit, deep concentration, complex textures, high levels of tannins and as previously noted, have good aging capabilities

The blend for this release is 51% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Petit Verdot. It was aged in 62% new, 38% once used French Château Ferré in barrels for 21 months. A total production of 1,130 cases were released. 

Winemaker Notes: "The Long Haul offers plum, cassis, and savory aromatic probles on the nose that morphs into a lush entrance of black fruit, caramel, tea, and earth. Silky, velvety tannins combine with mid-palate structure and acidity that leads into a lengthy finish."

The 2013 Long Haul is ruby in color, darkening gradually toward the inside of the glass. Aromatically, the wine shows of brambly, wild blackberry and raspberry, along with sweet baking spices that surprises with bright cherry and darkens to a range of black fruits toward the end of the sip. Subtle minerals mingle
with the ne, dusty tannins bright acidity on the finish. 

This was rated 93 points by Wine Enthusiast.

Dark purple colored, medium full bodied, tightly wound, structured black cherry and black plum fruits open with a layer of cinnamon spice with notes of black tea, earthy tobacco and hints of caramel on the lingering tannin finish. 

RM 90 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2140079

www.markryanwinery.com

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/09/mark-ryan-columbia-valley-wine-tasting.html

https://twitter.com/MarkRyanWinery

Force Majeure Red Mountain Syrah 2015

Force Majeure Red Mountain Syrah 2015

We recently received our case allocation from Force Majeure which featured their top rated 'SJR' Syrah, their Cabernet and Épinette, their Right Bank Bordeaux Blend. We're holding them for special occasions but opened this 2015 Syrah that we tasted and obtained during our visit to the estate vineyards in Walla Walla in 2018. We look forward to returning to Walla Walla and seeing the new facilities they were building when we were there. 

 

This is 100% Syrah from their rocky steep hillside estate vineyards in the Washington State Columbia Valley Red Mountain AVA. This release got 93-96 points from Jeb Dunnuck of the Wine Advocate, 92 points from Jeb Dunnuck and 91 points from Wine Spectator.

We last tasted this about two years ago to the week when I wrote: "Dark blackish garnet colored, full-bodied, rich concentrated black berry fruits, hints of blue fruits, accented with layers of smokiness, minerality and tones of anise, black tea, black olive tapenade and hints of smokey meats, with bright lively acidity and cloying but approachable tannins on the tangy lingering finish."

RM 92 

Great flavorful sipping with some hearty artisan cheeses.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/10/force-majeure-vineyards-site-visit-and.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2659540

https://forcemajeurevineyards.com/wp/

Matthews Yakima Vally Red Wine Red Bordeaux Blend 1999

Matthews Yakima Vally Red Wine Red Bordeaux Blend 1999 

We continued our exploration of Columbia Valley Bordeaux varietal wines, following our recent trip to Woodinville, Washington to taste Washington State wines in our Seattle Culinary and Washington Wine Tour. We drove by Matthews Cellars' tasting room and it was on my shorlist of spots to visit but it was especially crowded each time we passed. As with the other tastings from that trip, this reflects significant QPR - Quality Price Ratio, especially relative their French and Northern California counterparts.

For midweek grilled beefsteak dinner, I pulled from the cellar this almost twenty year old Columbia Valley Bordeaux Blend, the last remaining bottle of a lot I bought at auction, and the oldest  remaining bottle of similar labels from this era. Much of the fun or intrigue of wine collecting and tasting is comparing a label over time as it ages, and comparing it with its' peer group, bottle from the same appellation - Yakima Valley AVA - same terrior, soil type and climate, and from the same price range.

Often, typically tasting notes will be similar, subtle bottle variations aside, show gradual signs of aging, amplified as they reach their apex and go beyond their prime on the aging curve. Since I acquired this lot of bottles at auction, its impossible to determine the provenance of each of the bottles, where they were sourced and how they were stored over time. Hence it is not surprising to find subtle bottle variations. This lot was the case as three of the four bottles were consumed in the year they were acquired, each showing slightly differently.

This bottle was held another eight years and was consistent with the median of the other tasting experiences. 

This was a blend of Bordeaux varietals, 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot and 11% Cabernet Franc.


Our last tasting of this wine was back in December 2011 when I wrote; "Surprising over-achiever for our gala Christmas beef wellington dinner - this was more polished than earlier tastings, full bodied, complex, vibrant and expressive with layers of blackberry, black currants and cherry fruits, a layer of spice, black tea and cassis with hints of tar, leather and tobacco on the lingering moderate tannin finish."

Earlier that year in Sept 2011 I wrote: "I found the fruit to be moderate upon opening but brighter and more expressive the second day; complex and polished; blackberry, black currants and cherry fruits, and eucalyptus with a layer of spice, black tea and cassis with hints of tar, leather and tobacco on the lingering moderate tannin finish.'

And, earlier that year in Feb 2011 I wrote; "Dark inky color - medium - full bodied - firm black berry and black raspberry fruits are giving way to a tar, leather, cassis and hint of tobacco as this wine is passing its prime."

This week the wine was consistent with the latter two tasting notes, with slight diminution of the fruit and structure as the non-fruit tones of leather, tea and tobacco were starting to be more predominant over the bright black berry and black cherry fruits.

Same rating as the earlier two tastings, RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=79548

Mark Ryan Columbia Valley Wine Tasting

Mark Ryan Columbia Valley Wine Tasting

One of the recommended producers to visit during our Seattle Culinary and Washington Wine Tour, Woodinville Wine Experience was Mark Ryan Winery. Mark Ryan wines are the artwork of Mark Ryan McNeilly a self taught winemaker who learned the craft working with well known producers, acquiring Bordeaux varietal grapes from renowned vineyards in the Columbia Valley Red Mountain appellation. He produces an extensive portfolio of wines from across the region, but is most notably known for several art crafted Bordeaux Blends. We tasted and acquired these wines at the Mark Ryan tasting room in Woodinville, Washington. 

Woodinville is a Seattle suburb that has become a wine mecca with several dozen tasting rooms of producers of wines sourced from vineyards in the Columbia Valley in the center of the State, three hours to the east. The tasting rooms inhabit numerous free standing sites as well as several commercial centers that resemble outlet malls but filled with wine producers. 

The wine flight offered at the Mark Ryan tasting room consists of Burgundian varietals, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Oregon, and several Bordeaux varietal blends sourced from the Washington State central Columbia Valley. Mark Ryan dutifully lists the vineyard sources for each of its wines accordingly. They represent the notable famous sites from the Central Washington State appellations. Vineyards and their applicable appellations that provide grapes for Mark Ryan Wines include Red Willow from the Yakima Valley AVA, the famous Ciel du Cheval vineyard from Red Mountain AVA, Klipsun, Red Mountain, Quintessence and Obelisco Vineyards from Red Mountain, Olsen Vineyard and Red Willow from Yakima Valley and Phinny Hill Vineyard from the Horse Heaven Hills AVA.

The fact that these famous vineyards source grapes to many producers, the differences in their various labels is the result of their handicraft of winemaking since they all come the same sites, rather than the difference of the vineyard sites themselves. Never-the-less, we were extremely impressed with the quality of wines coming out of the Columbia Valley producers. 

Many of these wines rival the premium wines from California notable regions such as Napa and Sonoma Valleys, some at relative bargain prices of up to half less, since they don't yet have the cache of the more historic areas. Seize the opportunity to discover these wines as this differential won't last as they become better known.

Like many of the Woodinville and region's producers, Mark Ryan sources its fruit from growers of the large established vineyards. Many of these are long established relationships under contracts for specific rows of a vineyard or blocks. While not Estate wines, where the grapes are sourced from producer owned sites, it offers the next best thing. This is important of course to reflect Terroir, the unique essence of climate, soil, site, as it manifests itself in the wine, consistently over time, from vintage to vintage. 

Tasting flight:

The scheduled tasting flight on offer for the day was as follows and as pictured. This is a great bargain to taste this range of quality wines for $15, which is refundable with purchase. As usual, we tasted, and acquired several wines beyond the standard flight. 

Megan Anne Cellars Chardonnay 2015, sourced from notable vineyards in Dundee Hills and Eola-Amity Hills in the Willamette Valley in Oregon

Megan Anne Cellars Pinot Noir 2015 from the Willamette Valley Chehalem Mountain 

Readers of these pages know we're fans and collectors more based on Bordeaux Varietal wines and have we focused the following wines that were comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Interesting, these wines were based on grapes sourced from the same vineyards, as noted above and were largely differentiated by the composition of the Blend of the grapes in each label.  

Mark Ryan 'Long Haul' Red Wine Blend 2015

The Mark Ryan Long Haul label is composed primarily of Merlot from Yakima Valley’s Red Willow Vineyard where the average vine age is 25 years. The vineyard site's ancient soils were above the Missoula flood plains of the river valley. Being predominantly Merlot, this is in the style of the Right Bank Bordeaux, or those produced in the appellations on the north and east sides of the Gironde River that bisects the region.

Vineyard Sources:

• Red Willow, Yakima Valley
• Ciel du Cheval, Red Mountain
• Klipsun, Red Mountain
• Quintessence, Red Mountain
• Olsen, Yakima Valley

Blend

• 84% Merlot
• 6% Cabernet Franc
• 8% Cabernet Sauvignon
• 2% Petit Verdot

This was dark garnet colored, medium bodied, bright vibrant dark berry, accented by what some refer to as violet and spiced plum, we detected notes of dark mocha, spice, hints of cassis and cedar with firm but approachable tannins on the lingering finish.  

RM 92 Points, Wine Advocate gave it  (89-91) Points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2781533

Mark Ryan Water Witch Red Wine 2015

Vineyard Source was the Quintessence Vineyards on Red Mountain

Producer's note:

Quintessence Vineyards is a 410-acre parcel of land with a base elevation of 675 feet, rising to 1,025 feet as it reaches Red Mountain AVA's southwest-facing slopes. Quintessence founders Dick Shaw and Paul Kaltinick planted their first vines as partners on Red Mountain in 2010. They launched Quintessence with a planting of 68 acres along Red Mountain's southwestern slope. Positive response was immediate, with customers pointing to "world class vineyard management" and "spectacular fruit" as some outstanding attributes. Additional planting followed, with similar success. Now, with the expansion along the eastern ridge and slop of Red Mountain, Quintessence will encompass some 300 acres in total. Quintessence is made up of premium land, a talent for farming, dedicated management, ideal growing conditions, and a love for what they do.

310 cases produced; aged in 70% new French oak barrels

Blend

• 60% Cabernet Sauvignon
• 30% Merlot
• 8% Cabernet Franc
• 2% Petit Verdot

Dark garnet and purplish colored, full bodied, rich concentrated bright forward extracted black raspberry fruit accented by layers of exotic spices, sweet mocha chocolate and notes of sweet oak and creme de cassis with silky polished tannins on a full long smooth polished finish. 

RM 93 points; Jeb Dunnuck The Wine Advocate (92-94) Points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2892511

Mark Ryan 'The Dissident' Columbia Valley Red Blend 2016

Like the wines above, this is also a Bordeaux varietal blend, sourced from several Columbia Valley vineyards, distinguished largely by the composition of the blend. Like the others, we tasted and acquired this wine at the Woodinville tasting room. This label was $20 cheaper than those above representing great value QPR (Quality Price Ratio) in this Bordeaux Blend.

Winemaker's Notes on 'The Dissident'; 

Some of Washington State’s finest vineyards have provided fruit for the 2016 The Dissident. The Dissident is a wine that we create to complement the Dead Horse and Long Haul. People sometimes think The Dissident is made up of wines that don’t make the cut in the final blends of the Dead Horse and Long Haul, which couldn’t be further from the truth. The same vineyards, barrels and attention to detail go into crafting The Dissident as go into every wine in the Mark Ryan program. While the Dead Horse and Long Haul are crafted to be supremely ageeable, The Dissident is built to offer a more approachable wine younger in its development. 

Vineyard Sources:

• Quintessence, Red Mountain
• Ciel du Cheval, Red Mountain
• Klipsun, Red Mountain
• Obelisco, Red Mountain
• Phinny Hill, Horse Heaven Hills
• Red Willow, Yakima Valley

Blend

• 56% Cabernet Sauvignon
• 24% Merlot
• 17% Cabernet Franc
• 3% Petit Verdot

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, dark berry, black currant and black cherry fruits are accented with notes of spice, mocha and hints of cedar with subtle tannins on a lingering finish. 

RM 91 points; Wine Advocate (92-94) Points (June 2017)

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2914672

Mark Ryan Winery 'Lost Soul' Yakima Valley Red Willow Vineyard Syrah 2015

 

Mark Ryan Winery offers this extended barrel aged Syrah. Sourced from fruit from the Red Willow Vineyard in Yakima Valley, Lost Soul is a single vineyard representation of Red Willow Syrah and embodies the cooler side of Syrah. The wine was aged in 54% new thick staved 500L French oak barrels for an extended period of 30 months.

The Red Willow vineyard is one of the oldest vineyards in the state of Washington. It is a family operation owned and operated by Mike Sauer, his wife Karen, sons Jonathan and Daniel, and son-in-law Rick Willsey. The vineyard is located on the Yakama Indian Reservation, on steep south-facing slopes in the Cascade foothills, in the Yakima Valley AVA. The first wine grapes were planted in 1973 under the direction of Dr. Walt Clore, a legendary viticulturist and winemaker that helped found the early days of Washington State quality wines. 

This was dark inky purple, full bodied with black berry and black raspberry fruits accented by pepper, smokey, earthy leather with smooth sweet tannins.

RM 91 points; Wine Advocate, 93 Points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2989932

https://www.markryanwinery.com/  

Dunham Cellars 'VI' Walla Walla Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2000

Dunham Cellars 'VI' Walla Walla, Yakima and Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2000

We hold a over a decade of vintages of this label. mostly acquired at auction until recent vintages which have appeared at certain Chicagoland merchants. We've also discovered and enjoyed their Trutina label which is a Bordeaux Blend, which at a reduced price point offers good QPR - Quality Price Ratio.

Dunham are a family-owned winery with several estate vineyards in prime locations around the Walla Walla Valley Appellation. Dunham grow and produce varietal based wines in Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Chardonnay as well as Trutina, their Bordeaux style blend. Proprietor Eric Dunham is winemaker and also an artist who creates original artwork that is featured in a series of 'Artist Series' labels for Dunham Cellars vineyard designated and special bottlings.

I pulled this fifteen year old 2000 vintage release to compare with vintage releases of our recent tasting last week. Thankfully, this showed well and is still well within its drinking window showing very little diminution with age.

Dunham employ an interesting and unique branding methodology numbering each release of this wine with a Roman Numeral dating back to I with their 1995 release. Hence this 2000, their sixth release is labeled 'VI' for the sixth release.

This is their flagship label which we opened with great interest since we hold a vertical collection going back to their 1997 vintage, which we have not yet tried, so we weren't sure what to expect. This is from the Walla Walla winery with fruit sourced from numerous locations in the Yakima and Columbia Valleys in Central West Washington State - an area not normally associated with Bordeaux varietals. Yet, looking at the geography and latitude, the region is relatively near that of the French Bordeaux region.

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, bright vibrant black raspberry and black cherry fruit flavors accented with a subtle layer of cedar and hints of eucalyptus, turning to tones of tar, black tea and hints of leather and spice on the smooth soft modest tannin finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=750740


http://www.dunhamcellars.com/ 

Beef Wellington Red Wine Dinner

Festive Beef Wellington Bordeaux - Meritage Proprietary Blends Wine-Dinner

For our gala family Christmas dinner Linda prepared classic Beef Wellington featuring tenderloin of beef, foie gras, medley of mushrooms, topped in an incredible port wine syrup sauce, baked in a puff pastry shell to lock in and harmonize the flavors. Starting with Caprese salad, side dishes included au-gratin potatoes, peas, brussel sprouts and crescent rolls.

Our dinner wine selections included a right bank Bordeaux Pomerol, proprietary Meritage blends from Napa and Yakima Valleys, and a duo of Burgundies, young and old. None of these are causal easy drinking wines, rather they were chosen to complement and highlight the complex flavors of the beef dinner preparation. The port wine sauce featured Warre's Warrior Oporto NV (and some HazyBlur Baroota South Australian Shiraz 2006 left over from the other evening).


Wines shown below, left to right:
Domaine Tortochot, Champerrier, Vieilles Vignes, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin, Burgundy, 2005
Matthews Cellars Yakima Valley Proprietary Red 1999
Melka Metisse Napa Valley Proprietary Red 1999
Château du Domaine de l'Eglise Pomerol Bordeaux 1996
Albert Morot Beaune Bressandes, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru, Burgundy 1992



The Beef Wellington

Trimming Beef Tenderloin

Mushroom Medley

Foie Gras Hash

Grilled Mushroom Medley

Beef Wellington Preparation

Beef Wellington
Puffed Pastry Shell

Slicing Beef Wellington

The Holiday Dinner Wine Course:

Pierre Gimonnet Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuis 1er Cru N.V. 

Light gold color - Bright vibrant expressive, smooth silky polished nice drinking - touch of sweetness,crisp acidity, tangy lengthy finish.

RM  90 points. 


http://cellartracker.com/w?389638


 

Melka Metisse Proprietary Red Wine 1999

Flagshp namesake wine from legendary winemaker Phillip Melka, this wine comes entirely from hillside Napa Valley vineyards.

Full bodied, deep dark inky color - dense concentrated complex layers of black berry fruits, hints of black tea, silky clove and spice with a long ripe smooth refined tannin finish.

Drank from magnum.

RM 91 points.

80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc 100% Napa Valley 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=10051

Château du Domaine de l'Eglise Pomerol Bordeaux 1996

Surprisingly light, medium bodied, opaque garnet color, vibrant cedar and floral aromas and flavors predominate with bing cherry, black cherry and black berry flavors with layers of leather, tea and tobacco on the lingering moderate tannin finish.

Drank from magnum.


RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=333874

Matthews Cellars Yakima Valley Proprietary Red 1999

Surprising over-achiever for our gala Christmas beef wellington dinner - this was more polished than earlier tastings, full bodied, complex, vibrant and expressive with layers of blackberry, black currants and cherry fruits, a layer of spice, with hints of black tea, tar, leather and tobacco on the lingering moderate tannin finish.

52% Cabernet Sauvignon 37% Merlot 11% Cabernet Franc

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=79548

 
Domaine Tortochot, Champerrier, Vieilles Vignes, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin, Burgundy, 2005


Very open and expressive - bright berry, strawberry, mulberry, spice and wood with long moderate tannin finish.

RM 89 points,  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=537162

Albert Morot Beaune - Bressandes, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru, Burgundy

I thought this had given up the ghost a while back but it remarkably still had life in it - light bodied, opaque garnet purple color - initial funky barnyard aromas thankfully burned off - the black cherry and olive tapenade gave way to earthy leather, tea and wood.

RM 86 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=605439

Matthews Estate Yakima Valley Red Wine 1999

Matthews Estate Yakima Valley Red Wine 1999


From their website Matthews states, their original intent since getting into the wine business was to create a flagship Bordeaux blend. This label was their flagship based on Cabernet Sauvignon but consistently using all five Bordeaux varietals. Matthews goal was to produce wines with all of the power and elegance of the Paulliac and St. Estephe Bordeaux appellations with the added intensity of Columbia Valley fruit. They ceased producing the Columbia Valley Red Wine flagship label with their last vintage in 2005.

Their highest score rating were given in 2001 and 2000 winning 90 and 91 points respectively. Their 1999 release was their next best release winning 88 points, their best achivement to date with their fifth release. According to their release notes, the 1999 harvest proved to be one of their most successful up to that time, "as ripening progressed, the top vineyards started showing tremendous potential with the consistent ripening period giving  great depth and color to the finished wine with an amazing amount of complexity. Even before the wine was allowed to spend time in the new french oak barrrels, it showed good balance and richness". The blend for the final release was 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot and 11% Cabernet Franc. Their release notes said this wine should improve with age and last 10-15 years. Hence one might expect this to be the apex for this wine.

I purchased several bottles at auction knowing it was nearing end of its peak period. As such I obtained it far below it suggested release retail price of $75. The suggested release prices for the following 2000 and 2001 vintages were listed as $70 and $65, followed by $50, $60 and $44 in the 03 through 05. I don't understand the variations in prices and the diminishing price may reflect the market realities for this wine at the time. Perhaps the demise of the label in '05 was the realization they would not achieve their Pauillac, St Estephe benchmark consistently to maintain the effort.

This is the third bottle I have opened over the last year and it was similar to the last one, equally impressive, consistent in notes and rating, perhaps revealing its full potential for this stage of its life, moreso than the first one I opened of the selection which was more subdued in fruit with more of the other elements taking over.

Notably, my assessment and notes for this bottle are very similar to the original Winemakers release notes - "Tightly wound nose begins with ripe cherry, black currant and an earthy espresso. A hint of black tea comes out with a small amount of exposure and an intriguing mixture of eucalyptus and toffee, a structured wine with (the) polished elegance...."

I give it the same rating as did Wine Spectator upon release,  88 Points. Medium to full bodied, I found the fruit to be moderate upon opening but brighter and more expressive the second day; complex and polished; blackberry, black currants and cherry fruits, and eucalyptus with a layer of spice, black tea and cassis with hints of tar, leather and tobacco on the lingering moderate tannin finish.  Spectator pegged the prime to be 2004 through 2008 which may have been more accurate. In any event, this wine is mature and it's time has come to drink, beyond its prime if you favor the bold forward fruits, yet polished and complex with character is you desire something more elegant and subdued. 

Drink it soon and best enjoy it with moderate foods. It was a great compliment to grilled flank steak and baked sweet potatoes. I have a few more and look forward to them with food, hoping they're like this bottle rather than the first one. 

Interesting too, the first, earlier bottle I tasted that didn't show as well had a different label (shown left) than did this one (shown above), yet is represented as being the same vintage, source and blend. If someone can explain this it would be interesting and appreciated. 


http://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=79548

http://www.matthewsestate.com/   

Diverse Cabernet - Bordeaux Blend Comparison Tasting - Aging Wine

Son Alec's brief visit home from university - spur-of-the-moment (yes, my bride is amazing) celebratory dinner - serving favorite surf & turf - poses wine opportunity/challenge. Go with it and have fun... three diverse aged vintage Cabernet - Cabernet blends to compliment the beef tenderloin and Riesling Spatlese highlights the broiled lobster. 

Paradigm Napa Valley Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 1994 - http://cellartracker.com/w?5051 - Bought a case of this big Napa Oakville Estate Cabernet Sauvignon following a winery visit during our 1999 Napa Wine Experience.   This is one of the joys of a wine cellar - to conduct periodic comparison tastings over the years to see how a wine ages. (More on that in another unwindwine blogpost). My last tasting notes were three years ago but are totally consistent with this time. Needed an hour to open and shed an initial slight tart cherry edge, which it did. Dark inky color - medium to full bodied. Full forward black cherry and black raspberry fruit flavors starting to show its age a bit with earth and leather emerging over the subtle currant, ripe plum, cedar and a hint of anise on a full firm finish. Earlier notes talk of a milk chocolate layer which was very subtle. I would say the aging of this bottle seemed no more-so than the previous tasting as it is holding its fruit quite well. RM 91 - WS 92. 

Chateau Calon-Ségur Grand Cru Classe St. Estephe Bordeaux 1995 - Had to pull out this Valentine wine - noted as such due to the heart on the label (below) since this turns out to double as our Valentine's dinner too. Once again we have a case of this wine and look forward to periodic tastings in the years to come. Notably reflecting the age-worthiness of this wine (compared to the Napa Cab above), we're only a couple bottles in to this case while only a few bottles remain of the Napa. No signs of age whatsoever here with a long life ahead - Classic Bordeaux with earthy, leathery black berry and black raspberry fruits accented by a long smooth floral finish - this exhibited a bit more fruit and floral the next day at the expense of the firm full but smooth tannin structure. http://cellartracker.com/w?1577  RM 90; WS 96; RP 92. 

Matthews Cellars Yakima Valley Red Wine 1999 - A Bordeaux mix blend 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot and 11% Cabernet Franc. Dark inky color - medium - full bodied - spice from the Cab Franc comes through, firm black berry and black raspberry fruits are giving way to a tar, leather, cassis and hint of tobacco as this wine is passing its prime. http://cellartracker.com/w?79548 RM 88.

 

Dr Heidemanns-Bergweiler Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spatlese 2006 - Paired with the broiled lobster. http://cellartracker.com/w?500230

Guenoc, Guenoc Valley Vintage Port 2000 - Paired with cheese cake, fresh strawberry and chocolate fondue dessert. Full bodied - black and deep purple color - taste of brandy, black berry, black raspberry, deep blueberry, dark chocolate, cassis and black cherry, sweetness a nice complement to the dessert - would be great with a stilton cheese - nice close to a great meal. http://cellartracker.com/w?54302 RM 88