Pour Boys Holiday Wine Dinner 2023
Dr Dan and Linda hosted Lyle
and Terry and Linda and me for a 'Pour Boys' wine group holiday dinner.
They prepared Veal Marsala as the main entree dish with mashed
potatoes, brussel sprouts, mixed green salad and roasted red pepper
soup.
Before dinner they served a medley of artisan cheeses and charcuterie.
Dan pulled from his cellar a horizontal selection of 2011 vintage vineyard designated Aussie Shiraz' from producer Clarendon Hills.
What
a treat to taste three different designated vineyard selections
from the same vintage - thereby called a 'horizontal' collection.
Clarendon
Hills produced these different vineyard specific Shiraz's in 2011 - Bakers Gully,
Moritz and Liandra vineyards. Dan was able to obtain this collection
at auction for this special tasting.
Clarendon Hills is a small family run winery based in Clarendon, South Australia, founded by biochemist Roman Bratasiuk in 1990, the self-taught winemaking proprietor. Considered
somewhat of a maverick within the Australian industry, Roman changed the landscape of Australian fine wine. Roman’s prophetic vision was to introduce the single
vineyard concept to Australian wine.
Roman purchased a 160ha property high in the
hill country of Clarendon at an altitude close to that of the Adelaide
Hills. Here he established a vineyard with single-stake trellising
similar to that used on the steep slopes of Germany and Austria; it
produces the Domaine Clarendon Syrah. Sons Adam and Alex have joined
their father in the business – Adam in the winery, Alex managing the
future direction of Clarendon Hills. -JAMES HALLIDAY
Roman pioneered the
Australian Grenache category with the release of Australia’s first
single vineyard, 100% Grenache: the 1991 Clarendon Hills Blewitt Springs
Grenache, then extended that approach to Shiraz.
He also developed what became his flagship ultra-premium label, one of Australia’s
greatest single vineyards with his Astralis Syrah
vineyard in Blewitt Springs. Over the following 3 decades Roman and Clarendon Hills developed a world-wide,
first-class reputation highlighting remarkable old vine Grenache, Syrah and Cabernet vineyards from the Blewitt Springs and Clarendon sub districts.
The McLaren Vale terroir with close proximity to the Great Southern Ocean and
St Vincent Gulf, in combination with old mature vines produce wines that typify the
region with freshness and bright natural acidity derived
from the marine climate.
Clarendon Hills Syrah’s are considered among the very best in
Australia from
arguably Australia’s greatest single vineyard Syrah, Astralis, Clarendon Hills has added a number of
individual, exceptional, single vineyard old vine
expressions to the portfolio.
Roman adopted a
‘Burgundian’ approach to branding producing 19 single vineyard designated wines,
reflecting an internal hierarchy seen in the old-world with their Village wine,
Premier-Cru and Grand-Cru classifications.
"Roman Bratasiuk is one of planet earth's greatest winemakers" - Robert Parker Jr, Wine Advocate 5 Star Winery - Halliday Wine Companion
Clarendon Hills Bakers Gully Syrah 2011
This release got 92 points by Halliday Wine Companion and 90+ by Wine Advocate.
Aggregate of Cellartracker scores of 89.8
Dark ink color in the glass. Smooth with well integrated tannins. Hint
of black pepper. Really good qpr - better value than the Liandra and
actually enjoyed it better
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1953002
Clarendon Hills Liandra Vineyard Syrah 2011
The Clarendon Hills Liandra Syrah site is located in the Blewitt Springs
sub-region of McLaren Vale, a sandy section of the famous
Blewitt Springs sands.
Aggregate of ten Cellartracker scores of 88
CT'er - Deep, dark and full bodied. Subdued fruit. Hints of black pepper and
solid tannins. Good.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1953013
Clarendon Hills Moritz Vineyard Syrah 2011
Winemaker's Notes - The Moritz vineyard was planted in 1975 in a fine sandy soil with
pebbled ironstone top soil. Located in the lowest elevated sub-district
Kangarilla it is dry-grown and trellised. The Syrah vines are encouraged
to yield approximately 2 tonne per acre or 34 hectolitres per hectare.
Consistent vineyard characters include coffee, blue berry and black
olive like vibrance in the primary fruit spectrum. Moritz displays
balance and intensity. Bitter chocolate and coffee flavors mingle with
the earthy meatiness and combine to provide a supple experience.
Aggregate of ten Cellartracker scores of 90.3
Initial nose was acidic and dark red fruit. Wild herbs, a little mint, later after some decanting there was cola. Very intense taste of tart berries. A little pepper in the middle. nice tannins at the front long tart finish. Intensely fruity without being sweet. Savory notes appear after on the pallette after about 1 hour in the decanter Excellent.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1955271
https://clarendonhills.com.au/
To
pair and compare with the horizontal flight I brought another vineyard
designated label Napa Valley Shiraz from Venge Vineyards, one of our
favorite producers, from the 2010 vintage.
Lyle
brought from his cellar another 2010 vintage release of Sonoma County
Bordeaux Blend, Cinq Cépages from Château St. Jean. We've visited the
Chateau estate winery on several occasions over the years including
during our Napa/Sonoma Wine Experience 2017.
With the starter courses Dan served Sea Smoke Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay 2014.
I
mentioned that during our recent week retreat to our Florida vacation
rental home, I read a couple books, including most notably, "A Perfect
Score" by producer Kathleen Hall of Hall Vineyards. We obtained signed
copies of this book at the Producer release tour tasting in Chicago with
Dan & Linda.
To commemorate that memorable evening, and the
festive holiday, Dan graciously pulled from his cellar a bottle of Hall
flagship Excellenz, also from the 2014 vintage. We tasted and acquired
this wine during our visit to the producer during our Napa Wine
Experience in 2017.
I mentioned that we tasted the 2013 vintage
release of this wine at our family Christmas celebration last year and I
noted that that wine was on par with and notably perhaps the best
bottle of California or Napa Valley wine I ever experienced. I featured
that bottle in this blogpost at the time.
The
kids and grandkids assembled at our house following the annual
ritualistic Santa's breakfast at our local Seven Bridges Golf Club.
For such a festive family gathering, the boys
went down to the cellar and pulled two memorable, notable bottles,
Hall's flagship ultra-premium Exzellenz Napa Cabernet, from the grandkids birthyear 2015 vintage, and the historic inaugural vintage release of Robert Craig Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon, 1993.
Hall Exzellenz Rutherford Sacrashe Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
We discovered, tasted and acquired this label at the magnificent Rutherford Estate Winery during our Napa Wine Experience in 2017. This is sourced from the Sacrashe Vineyard that lies just above the
winery adjacent to the estate residence. We hold and have had some of the earlier
single vineyard designated wines from this vineyard dating back to 1998.
Who knew this would evolve and progress to such heights? Not often does
one get to taste a 'perfect' wine. of course perfection is in the eyes
('eyze') of the beholder. The
2013 vintage of this label that we tasted that day in their magnificent
tasting room in the cave at the Rutherford Sacrashe estate (shown
below) got 100 points from Robert Parker.
Parker wrote of this wine; "This hails from the foothills of Rutherford
and refers to Kathryn Hall’s ambassadorship to Austria between 1997 and
2001. A prodigious wine with beautiful floral notes intermingled with
blueberry, blackberry, black raspberry and graphite, the wine hits the
palate with a full-bodied force, but nothing seems pushed, cloying or
out of sync. Gorgeously pure blue and black fruits cascade over the
palate, a full-bodied presentation with remarkable purity and
complexity. The finish is a good 45-50 seconds, and while there is
significant tannin, the extravagance of the fruit and glycerin generally
conceal it. This is a remarkable, one-of-a-kind, world class Cabernet
Sauvignon that should prove compelling for at least another 30-40+
years."
Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate. 100 Points.
 |
Sacrashe Vineyard at Hall Rutherford Estate
|
What a treat,
and what better way to enjoy such a spectacular cellar selection than
with family - especially my two sons who are becoming oenphiles in their
own right, like me!
Hall Exzellenz Rutherford Sacrashe Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
As explained on the rear label, shown below, the name Exzellenz is German for Ambassador, in commemoration of Kathyn Hall's service as US Ambassador to Austria from 1997 to 2001.
The bricks in
in the magnificent tasting room in the cave at the Rutherford Sacrashe
estate (shown right and above) and featured in a separate blogpost at
this link) are recovered and repurposed from a former royal castle in Austria.
This
is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from the Sacrashe Vineyard (shown
above) at the Hall Rutherford Estate on the lower slopes of the Vaca
Range overlooking Rutherford, Napa Valley.
While this release didn't get 100 points, it came as close as possible, 99 points by
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 97 points from Owen Bargreen of owenbargreen.com, and 93 points
by Wine Enthusiast.
Parker wrote about this wine: "Composed of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and sporting a very deep
purple-black color, the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Exzellenz unfurls
slowly, tantalizingly out of the glass to reveal powerful, intense
scents of crème de cassis, Black Forest cake, blueberry compote and
preserved plums with an undercurrent of Chinese five spice, molten
chocolate, licorice and Marmite toast with wafts of garrigue and
camphor. Very rich, full-bodied and concentrated on the palate, it coats
the mouth with black and blue fruit preserves plus tons of spice and
savory accents, held together by a rock-solid, grainy frame and
finishing with epic persistence."
Spectacular! Delicious!
Enchanting! Deep dark garnet colored, full bodied, rich, concentrated,
round, rich, complex but elegant and seductive smooth blackberry and
black currant fruits accented by savory clove/cinnamon spices, tones of
crème de cassis, mocha chocolate, tobacco leaf and black tea, with a
tongue coating dusty gripping but silky smooth tannin laced lingering
finish.
RM 97 points.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2508301
So tonight, we tasted the 2014 vintage release of this ultra-premium label.
Hall "Exzellenz" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
This release was awarded a monumental 99 points by Jeb Dunnuck, and 95 points by Wine Advocate.
Deep
dark garnet/purple colored, full-bodied, firmly structured and
muscular yet nicely balanced, smooth and polished, rich round blackberry
and plum fruits, Wine Advocate cites 'mulberries, smoked meat. Indian
spices and tree bark', hints of Crème de cassis, toasty oak and graphite
on a long firm chewy tannin laced finish.
RM 95 points.
https://twitter.com/HALLWines @HALLWines
Hall Rutherford Winery Estate Appellation Tasting
Our visit to the
Hall Rutherford Estate was one of the highlights of our
Napa Sonoma Wine Experience 2017.
We wrote in earlier visit blogposts about the spectacular
Hall Rutherford estate and cave tours at the Rutherford estate sitting in the
Sacrashe Vineyard, with hospitality rooms above the wine production area, barrel caves and tasting room below.
The magnificent caves are sculpted into the mountain with bricks brought
from an Austrian castle and features alcoves that create a galley of
sculpture art.
The magnificent tasting room (shown left) at the end of the barrel cave
features a large table for thirty guests underneath a massive chandelier
fashioned from a thousand year old grape vine.
Hall Exzellenz Rutherford Sacrashe Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
This is sourced from the Sacrashe Vineyard that lies just above the
winery adjacent to the estate residence. We hold some of the earlier
single vineyard designated wines from this vineyard dating back to 1998.
Who knew this would evolve and progress to such heights? Not often does
one get to taste a 'perfect' wine. of course perfection is in the eyes
('eyze') of the beholder. This wine got
100 points from
Robert Parker.
Parker wrote of this wine; "This hails from the foothills of Rutherford
and refers to Kathryn Hall’s ambassadorship to Austria between 1997 and
2001. A prodigious wine with beautiful floral notes intermingled with
blueberry, blackberry, black raspberry and graphite, the wine hits the
palate with a full-bodied force, but nothing seems pushed, cloying or
out of sync. Gorgeously pure blue and black fruits cascade over the
palate, a full-bodied presentation with remarkable purity and
complexity. The finish is a good 45-50 seconds, and while there is
significant tannin, the extravagance of the fruit and glycerin generally
conceal it. This is a remarkable, one-of-a-kind, world class Cabernet
Sauvignon that should prove compelling for at least another 30-40+
years."
Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate. 100 Points
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1873772
Exzellence 2014 ...
From a tasting 11/14/2020 - I wrote:
WOTN - Wine of the Night - Deep garnet-purple color, full-bodied,
firmly structured yet perfectly balanced and silky smooth, elegant and
polished, full concentrated black berry fruits with notes of crème de
cassis, graphite, hints of cigar box and what Robert Parker described as
tree bark turning to a long sinewy spicy oak laced finish.
RM 96 Points.
https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/11/fabulous-premium-wine-flight-for.html
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2508295
Château St. Jean "Cinq Cépages" Sonoma County Bordeaux Blend 2010
The Exzellenc compared nicely with the Cinq Cépages that Lyle brought from his cellar.
We featured our visit to the Chateau during our Napa Sonoma Wine Experience in 2017 in this blogpost Chateau St Jean Sonoma Reserve Private Tasting.
We
had this release with Lyle and Terry when he rbrought it BYOB to a
local Trattoria in their West Loop neighborhood for a festive holiday
dinner as featured in this blogpost Cinq Cépages BYOB at Mart Anthony Chicago.
At that time, I wrote, "This 2010 vintage may be the best Cinq Cépages I have had - bigger,
fuller and more concentrated than any I remember. This was immediately
apparent when we opened and poured the dark inky purple thick full
bodied juice into the glass while the room filled with bright floral and
berry fruit aromatics."
https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2017/12/robert-craig-veeder-cinq-cepages-byob.html
We
hold a dozen vintages of this label dating back to the 1994 vintage,
one of our favorites from this producer. This is a classic label, Cinq
Cepages referring to the five flavors derived from the five designated
Bordeaux varietals included in the blend - Cabernet Sauvignon (78%),
Merlot (12%), Cabernet Franc (5%), Petit
Verdot and Malbec.
This label gained notoriety when the 1996
Cinq Cépages was named the #1 Wine of the Year in Wine Spectator's Top 100
list, and later the 1999 vintage went on to be named number two.
Winemaker's notes:
"The 2010 Cinq Cépages is a stunning color in the glass, deep ruby with a
subtle violet colored rim. Layered aromas are vivid; black plum,
blackberry compote, clove spice, tanned leather and a hint of fresh
tobacco leaf. Secondary aromas of raspberry and spiced cherry mingle
with notes of violet and pomegranate. The aromas lead to an incredibly
juicy palate with flavors of blueberry, cherry and blackberry. Nuanced
flavors of espresso and a distinct mocha component add to the
complexity. The full-bodied wine has smooth, silky tannins that offer
solid structure but do not overwhelm. The wine is plush and approachable
yet complex and appealing in the glass. In signature Cinq Cépages form,
this wine combines the strength of the diverse Sonoma County region to
create a well-balanced, complex and powerful wine."
This vintage release was awarded
93 points
by Wine Spectator, and 92 points
by Wine Advocate
and Vinous.
Dark garnet purple colored, medium to full-bodied, firm,
dense structured blackberry, black cherry and plum fruits with notes of
spice, earthy, smokey cedar, cigar box and black olive with smooth
moderate polished tannins on the finish.
RM 92 points.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1710008
https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2017/12/robert-craig-veeder-cinq-cepages-byob.html
For pairing with Dan's Clarendon Hills Shiraz', I brought this Napa Valley label.
Venge Vineyards "Stagecoach Vineyard - Block I-4" Napa Valley Syrah 2010
Venge
are one of our favorite Napa Valley producers that we've been enjoying
since the 1980's. We've had dozens of vintages and many labels from this
producer which we've visited in Napa Valley several times, and this the
first Venge Syrah we've ever had. We obtained this limited production
single vineyard desigated release at auction recently and we were eager
to try it. We recently obtained a mixed case of four vintages of this
label and tonight we brought this, the oldest vintage release.
This relessae was awarded 94 points by Wine Enthusiast and
91 points
by Wine Spectator.
Wine Enthusiast noted, "With this wine, Venge has taken a giant leap into the front
ranks of California Syrah producers".
This is sourced from the
legendary Stagecoach Vineyard, which sits high up on Atlas Peak in the
Vaca Range that forms the eastern boundary wall of Napa Valley.
This wine was aged in 60% new French oak.
Dark
inky purple colored, medium full bodied, with dense extracted briary
blackberry fruits accented by a layer of licorie and spice with notes of
herbs and tobacco leaf with chewy chunky tannins on the full finish.
RM 92 points.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1873772
After dinner with the dessert and chocolates we had this aged Sauterne dessert wine that we brought from our cellar.
Château La Tour Blanche Sauternes Bordeaux 1998 We enjoy tasting this wine at the UGCB Release Tour tastings each year.
Some UGCB reports:
Considered as one of the first Grand Cru Classé of Sauternes,
Château La Tour Blanche from the estate of the
same name is known for classic Bordeaux viticulture.
Founded in the 17th century by Monsieur de Latour Blanche,
the Château la Tour Blanche estate produces all kinds of wines. The
first owner was a squire, adviser to the Parliament of Bordeaux. In
1855, this wine was recognized as Premier Grand Cru Classé of Sauternes during the World Fair. The estate was bought in 1876 by Daniel Iffla.
Château La Tour Blanche is unique among the classed growths in Sauternes. It is owned by the state and is home to the La Tour Blanche School of Viticulture and Oenology. The First Growth's benevolent status was down to the generosity of its owner, Daniel Iffla,
who went by the name Osiris, and was a powerful financier and
philanthropist whose only stipulation with La Tour Blanche was the
founding of a wine school.
In 1907, the latter bequeathed it to the French state after his
death and to this day, the entire estate is owned by the
Ministry of Agriculture. In order to respect the wishes of the deceased owner, a school of wine making and
viticulture was established in 1911, built on the estate to
accommodate the children of the region. Today, the viticultural
high school of the Château de La Tour Blanche trains many technicians and vineyard enthusiasts.
The estate covers an area of 70 hectares, a large part, 44 are covered in vineyards composed of Sémillon, Sauvignon and Muscadelle. The estate is composed of
gravelly soil favorable to surface drainage. This arrangement eliminates
much more moisture at the foot of the vines, thus contributing to the
improvement of the production.
The establishment produces primarily sweet wines, classified under the name “Sauternes“, a designation of controlled origin in the appellation Sauternais, one of the many subdivisions of the
Bordeaux region. A dry white is also made along with an extremely rare red wine made composed from Merlot.
As
is custom in Sauterne, this is a Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc Blend -
Semillon (~77%), Sauvignon Blanc (~20%), and Muscadelle (~3%).
It was awarded 93 points by Wine Advocate and 91 points by Wine Spectator and two others.
Winemaker
notes - The colour is straw yellow. The nose reveals loads of fresh
fruits,
such as apricot or peach, but also beeswax and cinnamon. In mouth the
attack is very supple with much fullness and roundness. Great aromatic
complexity dominated by candied fruits is present. The final is spicy,
developing to honeysweetened savours.
Vintage characteristics: The year 1998 was marked by difficult weather conditions. Indeed,
after a very dry end of winter, the wet weather in April delayed the
vegetation (174 millimetres and 22 days of rain). The period from May
until the end of August was again character- ised by extreme dry
conditions. Then September was very similar to April with 94 milli-
metres and 17 days of rain. So maturity and overmaturation were
disturbed, and the grape harvest began only on September 28. Sanitary
sorting involved a little loss, but thereafter everything went well
thanks to a nice month of October, which made it possible to obtain very
high concentrations.
Number of bottles produced: 39,000
Deep golden color. This is nicely balanced, mid-weight and fresh, with
notes of saffron, apricot jam, some sweet spices, honey, caramel, some
smokey botrytis notes, some flowery notes too and figs. It‘s medium+
bodied, with medium acidity and just beautiful overall balance of
sweetness and acidity. Pretty long finish.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=75950
