Grilled beefsteak Sauv Blanc and Cabernet Franc for Birthday Dinner

Grilled beefsteak Sauv Blanc and Cabernet Franc for Birthday Dinner

Son Alec and D-in-law Vivianna hosted us for Sunday dinner and (my) birthday recognition. Alec grilled flank steak marinated in a ginger and sesame chirizo sauce, served with roasted peppers and a medley of grilled squash, mushrooms, onions and cauliflower.

I brought from our home cellar a big round zesty Sauvignon Blanc which paired well with the ceasar salad, veggie and fruit plates, and the dinner course. This is another label from the producer of a California Cabernet Cuvee' Bordeaux Blend from Alec’s birthyear vintage, which we served at Alec and Vivianna’s wedding reception. It was a special limited release commemorative bottle, signed by Quivira Vineyards and Winery founders and then owners, Henry and Holly Wendt, packaged in its own OWC, Original Wood Case. I wrote about Quivira Vineyards and that bottle in a blogpost at the time - Wedding Wines - Birthyear and Big Bottle Extravaganza.

Quivira Dry Creek Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2022    

Quivira Vineyards was founded in 1981 by Holly and Henry Wendt in the Dry Creek Valley of Sonoma County to pursue their passion for winemaking and the natural beauty of the area. They also were dedicated to restoring Wine Creek, source to the namesake of their home ranch, Wine Creek Ranch. It is a vital waterway for Coho salmon and Steelhead trout that flows through their 110 acre estate and merges with Dry Creek. 

In addition to vineyards, the Quivera estate is a sanctuary for biodiversity with lush gardens, teeming with life. Over 100 raised beds grow heirloom produce that supply local Sonoma County restaurants and the local food bank. Farm-to-table dinners showcase their garden-grown produce, estate olive oil, jams, and spices.

There is also a landmark 150-year-old fig tree, a living testament to the vibrant ecosystem.

The estate vineyards terroir consists of gravelly and sandy loam soil deposited over thousands of years on the valley floor – deep, well drained and fertile dirt that produces good crops of flavorful grapes. Fifty-nine acres of the estate is planted to vines of Zinfandel, Sauvignon Blanc and Rhône varieties.

A representative of the Adcon weather station has stated that the Quivera Wine Creek Ranch is the coldest site in Dry Creek Valley, which is optimal for preserving acidity in the Sauvignon Blanc and Rhônes planted on the valley floor.

Wine Creek Ranch’s estate Zinfandel is grown on hillside sites which are principally Dibble Clay Loam and Clough Gravelly Loam which produce spicy red fruit that is distinctive and unique to Dry Creek.

The property’s Mediterranean climate and well-draining soils is also ideal for Rhône varieties producing a distinctive flavor profile in the mainly Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre. Quivira is at the forefront of blending Rhône varieties in Dry Creek and stands out from other New World producers.

Quivira sits five miles west of the town of Lytton and Hwy 101, five miles northwest of Healdsburg, and 35 miles north of Santa Rosa. 

Quivira Vineyards’ produces Zinfandel, Sauvignon Blanc and Rhône under the stewardship and handicraft of vineyard manager Ned Horton and winemaker Hugh Chappelle. 

This release is 99% Sauvignon Blanc and 1% Semillion. It was aged in mostly older 500L barrels, Acacia pun- cheons, which add texture with no aroma or flavor impact and helped buffer the typically high acidity. A very small inclusion of Semillon (1%) was used as a final finishing touch for overall wine balance.

Forty percent of the fruit came from Quivira Wine Creek Ranch, with the balance sourced from like-minded partner/growers.

This release was rated 93 points by Wine Spectator and 90 and ‘Best Buy’ by Wine Enthusiast. 

Cases produced: 4,010.

This release  was rated 93 points by Wine Spectator and  91 points by Wine Enthusiast.

Winemakers rating notes - Pale yellow in color and star bright with a slight green tinge. The nose is filled with floral notes of jasmine, hibiscus and white rose, with lingering aromas of classic lemongrass, nectarine and clementine. On the palate, the Quivira mark of high acidity is balanced out with minerality reminiscent of limestone, topped off by layered flavors of Meyer lemon, Key lime, orange flower water and spring herbs 

Pale straw-colored, light medium bodied, pleasantly acidic and crisp gooseberry, green apple, hints of grapefruit and peach, notes of lemon verbena and a touch of tangerine and lime with vibrant acidity and mineral on the pleasant dry finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?3092990

https://quivirawine.com/previous-vintages/

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/09/wedding-wines-birthyear-and-big-bottle.html

As we moved from the fresh veggies and fruits to the salad to the main course steak entree, Alec pulled and served from his cellar this Napa Valley Cabernet Franc. 

This is from Alec’s wineclub allocation collection from Hill Family Vineyards whom he and Vivianna discovered and visited during their Napa Valley honeymoon. 

Hill Family Estate Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Franc 2022 

We featured Hill Family Estate Vineyards in these pages in detail previously in this blogpost - Hill Family Estate Napa Cabernet 2018, excerpted here

We wrote about how As newlyweds, son Alec and Vivianna visited Hill Family Estate during their forest fire shortened honeymoon in Napa a year ago September. They visited the new Hill Family Estate winery, located just minutes south of Yountville just off Ste Helena Highway 29, the western main artery of Napa Valley. They tasted this wine there and since then have acquired wines as part of their wine club allocations. 

Doug Hill founded Hill Family estate vineyards back in 1977 when he acquired his first vineyards. Since then, eleven different vineyard locations have been added to the Hill Family Estate portfolio, mostly in Napa Valley and its environs now covering more than 100 acres in numerous significant sub-appellations within Napa Valley.

For nearly four decades, the fruit was sold to the likes of Far Niente Winery, Silver Oak Cellars, Duckhorn Vineyards, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Caymus Vineyards, Cakebread Cellars and a host of other winery luminaries. Hill Family grapes were considered among the finest grown in the prestigious Napa Valley. 

Around the turn of the century, Ryan and Carly Hill approached their father with the vision to establish the family winery with the family name on it. Hill Family Estate was born in 2001 with the first fruit that would become Hill Family Estate wines. A total of around 980 cases were produced and released in 2004. The new brand was immediately acclaimed and gained national prominence with numerous Awards and industry plaudits. 

Hill Family Estate winemaker Alison Doran joined the team and crafted the inaugural 2001 vintage. Alison was introduced to  Doug while he was growing grapes and she was making wine for Lewis Cellars, another one of our benchmark favorite producers, and the other estate visit tasting the kids attended during their shortened honeymoon. Alison  developed her skill while being mentored by renowned wine expert Andre Tchelistcheff, completing a degree in winemaking at UC Davis and spending time in the legendary  wine region of Alsace, France. Today, Doug and  Alison work closely together selecting the highest quality  grapes and producing ultra premium wines

Today, the Hill Family owns 120 acres of vineyards  with properties on Atlas Peak, in Carneros, Oak Knoll and American Canyon. They are 100% family-farmed, family-owned and  family-operated.Production ranges between 9,000 to 12,000 cases  annually sourced from 12 different estate vineyards allowing them to select the  highest quality fruit for their wines.  

The Hill Family portfolio has grown to over twenty five different labels across the broad range of varietals, blends, and single vineyard designated offerings.  

Producer Doug Hill enjoys producing Cabernet Franc, so he maintains a few rows in the Beau Terroir Vineyard. While Cabernet Franc is a delicate variety and tends to be a difficult grape to grow well, but it is somewhat virus resistant and is well suited to the site. 

Hill Family Vineyards’s 2022 Napa Valley Cabernet Franc is a polished, expressive take on a grape that often plays a supporting role in Napa blends but rarely gets this much attention on its own. 

Production was a mere 280 cases of this Bordeaux varietal blend that was 91% Cabernet Franc, 7% Malbec, 1% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Merlot. 

After a year, it was blended with a small amount of Malbec, then put it back to barrel for a total of 20 months in 50% new French oak (Trust, Treuil Terroir, Nadalier Alliers).

Winemaker Alison Doran’s tasting notes: The 2022 Cabernet Franc is dignified with aromas of mulberry and cool climate graphite. The wine is medium in body and has a soft balanced entry that expands out to a lively mid-palate filled with pomegranate, new saddle leather, ripe fruit and a smooth finish.

Fruit was sourced from the Hill Family Beau Terroir Vineyard in the Carneros-Napa Appellation

Producer’s tasting notes - “What stands out most is the balance. Many Napa Cabernet Francs lean heavily into extraction and oak, but this bottling preserves the grape’s hallmark freshness and aromatic lift. It feels confident without becoming heavy, making it versatile at the table.’

“While already approachable with a decant, this wine should evolve gracefully over the next 6–10 years, developing more earthy and cigar-box complexity with time. It delivers a thoughtful and distinctive expression of Napa Valley Cabernet Franc that will especially appeal to drinkers looking for something more nuanced than the region’s typical Cabernet Sauvignon powerhouse style.”

This was a perfect accompaniment to the grilled flank steak, thereby enhancing enjoyment of both the wine and the food. 

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, this was bold, bright and expressive, concentrated blackberry, plum and black currant fruits accented by sprites of spice, cocoa, tobacco leaf, graphite and cedar with supple tannins with a long, polished, and savory finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/5210616

https://hillfamilyestate.com/knowledge-base/2022-cabernet-franc/

https://hillfamilyestate.com/

Special tribute wines for Special Mom’s Mother’s Day Dinner

Special tribute wines for Special Mom’s Mother’s Day Dinner

For Mother’s Day dinner, we were joined by sons Sean and Alec, their wives, Michelle and Vivianna, and their daughters.

Linda prepared grilled Tomahawk Rib-eye beefsteaks, served with mashed potatoes, broccoli cheese casserole and grilled mushrooms, with veggie and fruit plates and ceasar salad.

For a wine accompaniment with dinner, I pulled from the cellar a wine flight that included a special label that is itself a tribute to mothers, and one that is a birthyear vintage tribute to daughter-in-law Vivianna.

With the appetizer, veggie and fruit plates and the salad course we opened this high QPR easy drinking Santa Barbara Chardonnay. 

Diatom Santa Barbara Chardonnay 2023

We featured this wine in recent blogposts - Diatom Santa Barbara County Chardonnay 2023.

Long Shadows Vintners Collection Chester Kidder Red Blend 2017

Wine legend Allen Shoup created the Long Shadows Collection of wines and named one wine in honor of his mother, Elizabeth Chester, and his grandmother, Maggie Kidder. He selected Long Shadows' Director of Winemaking and Viticulture, Gilles Nicault, to craft this New World blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and other classic Bordeaux varieties.

The Chester-Kidder Red Blend is from Long Shadows Vintner’s Collection which I have featured often in earlier blogpost pages … Long Shadows Cellars feature a portfolio of limited release premium wines crafted by world class winemakers who specialize in particular varietal wines, all sourced from Washington State Columbia Valley fruit. 

We visited Long Shadows and featured their unique wine offerings in this earlier blogpost. 

Long Shadows was the creation of Allan Shoup, leader of Chateau St Michelle from 1983 to 2000. There he introduced Washington State grapes to winemakers from around the world in collaboration to produce quality wines. Under his leadership, Chateau St Michelle became the largest producer of Riesling varietal wines in the world. 

After retirement from Chateau St Michelle he founded Long Shadows to produce world class ultra-premium wines in Washington with fruit sourced from there. He built a state of the art winery in Walla Walla and recruited a team of legendary producers to craft signature wines from the best vineyards' fruit from the Washington Columbia Valley. Three years into the new venture Long Shadows was awarded the Winery of the Year by Food and Wine Magazine. 

Shoup recruited a top winemaker with expertise and a track record producing best in class wine in each category or type of wine based on a style and varietal grape. Marketed under the Vintners Collection, each of the Long Shadows labels is a testament to the legend of the winemaker for each label based on each 

varietal.

Since the beginning, Long Shadows' Director of Winemaking and Viticulture Gilles Nicault, has overseen the operations of the winery and worked closely with the vintners to bring each winemaker’s vision to completion. Internationally renowned winemakers Randy Dunn (Feather Cabernet Sauvignon); John Duval (Sequel Syrah); Philippe Melka (Pirouette Red Wine); and the late legendary Michel Rolland (Pedestal Merlot) as participating partner winemakers in their respective wines. 

Gilles also crafts Poet’s Leap Riesling and Saggi, a Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon blend, in styles that remain true to their original winemakers, Armin Diel and Giovanni Folonari respectively. And finally, Gilles crafts this Chester-Kidder, a Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah blend, independently.

Gilles Nicault has served as director of winemaking and viticulture since Long Shadows inception in 2003. As resident winemaker overseeing daily operations at Long Shadows' state-of-the-art winery in Walla Walla, Gilles works with a group of celebrated vintners from around the globe. It is his job to ensure that each winemaker's vision is realized in the vineyard and the cellar.

Gilles grew up in southern France and graduated from the University of Avignon with a four-year degree in viticulture and enology. He honed his craft in the fabled hillside wineries of Côte du Rhône, Provence and Champagne. In 1994, already a vintner of rising fame in his homeland, Gilles traveled to Washington State to expand his winemaking skills. Here he worked for several top Washington wineries, including Woodward Canyon, before joining Long Shadows. Seattle magazine named him Washington State’s Winemaker of the Year in 2016.

Gilles works closely with the state’s top growers to execute a diverse winemaking protocol at Long Shadows’ state-of-the-art facility in Walla Walla to produce wines of exceptional quality, true to the Columbia Valley’s terroir. 

We wrote about this label in several blogposts, most recently ‘Long Shadows Chester Kidder with Filet of Beef.’

It is a unique blend of Bordeaux varietals plus Shiraz/Syrah for a big bold expressive red wine, ideally suited for pairing with the grilled beefsteaks. 

We hold a half dozen vintages of this label acquired as part of our Long Shadows Vault Club allocations. For this dinner, we pulled the 2017 vintage, the same vintage and from the same appellation that we served for Linda’s birthday dinner, of another favorite Columbia Valley Red Bordeaux Blend, Force Majeure Epinette, featured in this blogpost of that special dinner - Birthday celebration dinner at Morton’s Steakhouse Naperville.

The 2017 Chester-Kidder is a blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Syrah, and 6% Petit Verdot. it was aged 30 months in French oak barrels with 85% being new. 

The grapes were sourced from vineyards in Columbia Valley, Washington. The Cabernet Sauvignon was from Candy Mountain AVA and gives this wine structure and textured mouthfeel; Stone Tree Vineyard (Wahluke Slope) adds juicy, ripe cherry flavors; Dionysus Vineyard Petit Verdot, a standout site for this variety, is blended to contribute balanced acidity and dark fruit character that lifts the finished wine.

This release was rated 95 points by pundit Owen Bargreen, 94 points and Highly Recommended by International Wine Review, 93 points and Editors' Choice by Wine Enthusiast, and 93 points by Jeb Dunnuck and James Suckling, and 92 points by Stephen Tanzer.

Winemaker’s Note - Dark in color with generous aromas of wild blackberries wrapped around a pleasantly earthy core that’s accented by hints of oak spice. On the mid-palate, graphite and black licorice are complemented by a burst of vibrant fruit that lingers across a lengthy finish. A beautifully integrated wine with a broad, polished mouthfeel.

Deep dark ruby colored, full-bodied, rich, vibrant, bold concentrated savory black plum, black currant, wild blackberry and blue berry fruits accented by cassis, herbs, graphite, black tea, bacon fat, tobacco and hints of cinnamon spice and eucalyptus and oak with velvety tannins on a lengthy tongue-coating finish.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?3566693

https://longshadows.com/library/2017-chester-kidder/471

https://longshadows.com/

Silver Oak Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1991 

In a tribute to daughter-in-law Vivianna, the latest/newest mother in our growing family. we also opened a birth-year vintage Napa Cabernet Sauvignon we were holding in our cellar, from an iconic producer that we served at her and Alec’s wedding reception, and several other special events, as featured in these blogposts…. 

Big Bottle Birthyear wines for Wedding Celebration

Special Silver Oak Birthyear wines for Festive Holiday Open House, 

And, we recalled and shared our special unique visit to the Silver Oak cooperage, that is a foundation of the Silver Oak profile and brand … Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon is aged four years exclusively in this Missouri Oak before release … Cooper's Oak Winery and SILVER OAK Cooperage

We opened this producer’s Napa Valley label Cabernet from Viv’s birthyear vintage. We also still  hold the Alexander Valley and Bonny’s Vineyard labels of that vintage. 

At 34 years, while the label was a bit soiled, the foil, and most importantly the fill level and cork were still ideal. 

While past its prime, reaching the end of it optimal drinking window, showing a slight bit of haze or cloudiness, and taking on a bit of tartness in the aged fruit, this was still drinking nicely. 

Winemaker Notes - The 1991 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon has a vibrant ruby-red color. It has a nose of bing cherry and red pepper. This wine is light to medium bodied with a medium length finish. Enjoy now. May need decanting due to light sediment.

This was rated a whopping 95 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate back in 1995, 93 rating from Wine Spectator, and 90 points by Wine Spectator. 

Blogger, wine writer Tom Lee publishes the Zinfandel Chronicles and featured this wine in 2018 giving it 91 points, and advising to ‘drink soon’.

https://zinfandelchronicles.com/2018/01/1991-silver-oak-cabernet-sauvignon-napa-valley-bottle-notes/

Garnet colored with a slight bit of rust color and cloudiness setting in, medium bodied, dark ripe black cherry and black berry fruits starting to give way to a slight tartness, with notes of tobacco leaf, herbs, dusty rose and spice notes finishing with hints of that signature sweet oak and soft tannins and glycerin. 

RM 88 points at this stage. Time to drink up. 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/21346

https://silveroak.com/

Fabulous Top Rated Wines for Filet Steak Dinner

Fabulous Top Rated Wines for Filet Steak Dinner

Just returned from Spring Break skiing in the Rockies, son Ryan and d-in-law Michelle invited us over for Saturday night dinner to watch her Alma Mater University of Illinois in the NCAA Final Four basketball tourney. 

Ryan prepared prime filets of beef steaks with balsamic rice and salad. Dessert consisted of cherry pie and ice cream. 

For wine accompaniment with the beefsteaks he pulled from his extensive cellar this ultra-premium single vineyard designated Cabernet from a producer we know well, Venge Vineyards’, Bone Ash Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon;

To pair and compare, I took from our cellar another ultra-premium single vineyard designated Big Red Napa Cab, Cakebread Dancing Bear Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon blend,

Venge Bone Ash Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

We have long enjoyed Venge Vineyards wines dating back to the elder Nils Venge, winemaker Kirk’s dad, and their Family estate vineyard in St Helena. 

We visited Nils at Saddleback and at other wineries, several times during the nineties. One of our more memorable days, featured in this blogpost, Visit to Venge Vineyards and Nils Venge, we toured Saddleback, then lunched together at Tre Vigne in St Helena, then we drove up to Calistoga to meet Kirk at the new Rossini Ranch location where they were developing the property and digging wine caves. 

Kirk has since gone on to earn great notoriety with his own highly acclaimed wines such as this which was rated 96 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, and 91 points by James Suckling.

This Cabernet Sauvignon Bone Ash Vineyard is from that 23-year-old Calistoga estate vineyard.

Calistoga’s earliest settlers arrived in the 1840’s and planted various field varieties of vineyards, some of which still stand today with vines that are 80 to 110 years old.

The old Rossini Winery in Bell Canyon, had a historic stone building that dated back to 1891. The Venge’s purchased this property in the mid 1990s and completely restored this old ‘ghost’ winery which had sat vacant from prohibition until their purchase. 

They produced their wines there until they sold the winery in 2008 to the Foley Wine Group, (although they kept the rights to the Venge brand and name). Nils sold that property to vintner William Foley and it is now home to Merus Vineyards. We had Robert Foley Napa Cabernet yesterday, wine the day before this tasting at a wine lunch featured in these pages - Lunch at The Cellar Door Bistro & Wine Shop DG.

After selling the Rossini property, Kirk acquired their Calistoga property including the Bone Ash Vineyards, as well as taking over the Venge Vineyards brand from Nils. They built a new winery that was completed two years later. In the fall of 2020, the winery survived a very close encounter with flames from the Glass Fire burning right onto the property and almost up to the winery itself. 

Calistoga is today its own AVA, bearing distinction for its climate, its aspect, and its soils. As the season wears on and the soil dries out, light plumes of volcanic ash will dust up, looking like the ashes of the bones of those early settlers. Hence, the name “Bone Ash Vineyard” on the Calistoga Estate, one of three estate vineyards Venge own and farm in Napa Valley. 

Winemaker’s Notes - “This wine begins with concentrated purple color and blue fruit aromatics. Black and blue berries, jelly jar jam notes fill the senses. As this wine opens, the background notes of French Oak vanillin and fresh earth come forth. A wonderful, pure Cabernet expression. Great fruit, mid-palate, body and streaming length, this wine has it all! The palate is polished and sophisticated. Cranberry, black currant, blackberry and black cherry are all intertwined. The acid and tannin balance promises a wine that will hold for well over a decade in proper cellaring conditions.”

Dark ruby inky purple colored, full bodied, concentrated, round, oppulent but velvety smooth, pure and polished, black berry and black currant fruits accented by spice and hints of bitter dark mocha on the long lingering finish. 

This would be my WOTN - Wine of the Night in many tastings of several selections. It was a fabulous pairing with the steak and a fabulous tasting with the Cakebread. 

RM 95 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2476591

https://vengevineyards.com/our-wines/bone-ash-vineyard-cabernet-sauvignon/

Cakebread Dancing Bear Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

We tasted and acquired this bottle at the winery during an estate vineyard visit and tasted back in 2018 - Cakebread Cellars Reserve Tasting during our 2018 Napa Valley Wine Experience..

https://www.cakebread.com/2013-dancing-bear-ranch-cabernet-sauvignon-howell-mountain-napa-valley.html

Like the Venge Bone Ash above, this wine is also a single vineyard designated bottling, and was also rated 96 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, and it got 92 points by Decanter.

Unlike the 100% Cabernet Venge label, this 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Dancing Bear Ranch was a blend of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Merlot.

This release was aged 22 months in about 50% new French oak.

Cakebread Cellars Dancing Bear Ranch Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

In 1998, Cakebread purchased 200 acres on Howell Mountain and commenced development of these hillside vineyards into what becomes Dancing Bear Ranch. The property got its name from Black Bears the roamed the site and 'danced' amonge the vines tearing them up during the night. The first vintage of Dancing Bear Ranch is released in 2002.

Dancing Bear Ranch is located on the upper slopes of Howell Mountain in the Northeastern Napa Valley at upper elevations ranging from 1450’ to over 1600’ above sea level and a near 360 degree exposure. The mountainous site spans 194 acres of which only 29 are planted. The varietals planted there are all Bordeaux varietals - Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. The vines there are stressed, being rooted in shallow, rocky soils, ideal growing conditions for wine grapes. With its isolated mountainous locations, the site is home to a wide range of wildlife, including: turkeys, mountain lions, bobcats and of course, bear. 

This vintage release is a blend of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Merlot.

As noted, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate gave this wine 96 points.

Dense ruby/inky black purple color, full bodied, rich thick concentrated but nicely polished and integrated  flavors of blackberry and black raspberry fruits accented by tones of cassis, hints of tar, dark mocha and a touch of cinnamon spice on the lingering tongue coating finish.

RM 95 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2822548

https://www.cakebread.com/2013-dancing-bear-ranch-cabernet-sauvignon-howell-mountain-napa-valley.html

New Year’s Eve Celebration Dinner

New Year’s Eve Celebration Dinner

Son Sean and Michelle and the daughters/grand-daughters treated us to New Year’s Eve dinner. We dined at one of our favorite eateries, Hemingway’s Bistro in Oak Park (IL). We’ve enjoyed and hosted many dinners at Hemingway’s including our Pour Boys wine group, family and anniversary celebrations. 

Hemingway’s was booked for the entire evening and decorated festively for the holiday (s). 

We dined early to beat the crowds and allow for the children’s schedule. 

Hemingway’s offered a price fixe holiday dinner but we each ordered from the traditional menu, opting for our regular favorites from a menu we know well. 

From the limited but focused wine list, we started with Champagne to enjoy with our starter course (s).

Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut Rosém NV

This Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut Rosé French sparkling wine is from Alsace in the northeast corner of France on the German border. It is made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes using the traditional method.

Lucien Albrecht (pronounced Lu-Shen All-Bresht), one of the most distinguished producers of white wines in Alsace was founded in 1698 by Balthazar Albrecht in Orschwihr, a small village surrounded by by rolling hills and very complex and deep chalky soils with a high percentage of clay and sandstone screes, benefiting from South or Southeast exposure. ideally situated for grape-growing. 

The Crémant d’Alsace Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) was created in 1976 to distinguish the wines obtained by the sparkling champagne method. The term “crémant” comes originally from Champagne but is seldom used, in recognition of the efforts made by several Alsatian winemakers, including the Maison Lucien Albrecht.

Lucien Albrecht was a pioneer in the Crémant d’Alsace, which it began producing in 1971. Today the winery produces still and sparkling wines, all produced with fruit sourced exclusively from estate vineyards, including the Grand Cru Pfingstberg and Grand Cru Spiegel. 

The winemaking team is led by Jérôme Keller. Winemaker Notes - The flavors display nice strawberry and wild cherry fruit, with a touch of richness on the mid palate. It is balanced with dry, crisp acidity and complimented with a creamy texture and long finish. 

This NV label was rated 90 points by Wine Enthusiast and 88 points by James Suckling.

This modest priced wine provides high QPR. - quality price ratio. Dust orange colored, medium bodied, nicely balanced strawberry with apple and pear notes with hints of orange, lemon and pain grille with fine bubbles on the dry finish

https://www.lucien-albrecht.com/our-wines/cremants-alsace-lucien-albrecht/ 

We ordered several selections for our starter courses:

Blue Point Oysters - six piece, cocktail sauce

Chicken Liver Pate - Dijon Mustard | Cornichons | Toasted Crostini

Foie Gras du Jour - Caramelized Fruit, Pear Slices, Candy Onions, Parsnip Puree, Balsamic Vinaigrette

For the entree course: 

Linda the Roasted Stripe Bass A'la Piperade - pepper relish, golden raisins and cassoulet beans.

Michelle ordered the Grilled Steak Frites - Pommes Frites | Herb Stuffed Baked Tomato | Beurre Maitre d'Hotel.

Sean ordered the Duo of Magret Duck - parsnip puree, shitake caps, blood orange demi.

I ordered the New York Steak au Poivre - Cream Spinach | Pommes Au Gratin | Green Peppercorn Sauce

I took BYOB from our cellar for the occasion a vintage St Julien Bordeaux from one of our favorite producers for a perfect food wine pairing with the French cuisine.

Château Gruaud-Larose St Julien-Beychevelle Bordeaux 2010

We enjoyed A Visit to Château Gruaud-Larose which was one of the key highlights on our 2019 trip to the St Julien Appellation (AOC) in Bordeaux. Château Gruaud-Larose, a 2ème Cru Classé or 'second growth', one of fifteen Deuxièmes Crus (Second Growths) as classified in the original Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855.

This label is one of the key holdings in our cellar collection consisting of more than a dozen vintages spanning three decades dating back to 1980 including the birth year vintages of each of our kids, 1981, 1982, 1985 and 1990. We hold many vintages in large format bottles including 3 liter double magnums which we served at daughter Erin's and son-in-law Johnny's wedding.

Tonight, I selected a vintage release that I presumed to be in the ‘Goldilock’s zone’, not too old, and not too young, but just right, at the apex of its prime drinking window. I was not disappointed, this actually exceeded my highest hopes and expectations and was absolutely delicious, a perfect pairing with the dinner - especially the Foie Gras. As I have written often in these pages, an optimal food-wine pairing amplifies and ameliorates the enjoyment of both! Such was the case tonight. 

This release was rated 97 points by Decanter, 96 points by James Suckling, 95 points by Wine Enthusiast and Jane Anson, 94 points by Vinous, and 93 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator. 

Wine Enthusiast wrote, “For anybody looking for classic Bordeaux, this is the bottle to seek.” They advise to “ Keep for many years,” but this will be difficult as it is temptingly so good! Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate writes, “ … blockbuster wine, which has been built for the long haul. This is one 2010 where patience will be required. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040.” Thankfully I have nearly a case so will enjoy watching this age gracefully. 

The producers notes about the vintage season - “Ideal ripening of all the varieties overall thanks to exceptionally dry August and September without excessive heat. Ideal harvest from first to last day allowing picking of each variety at optimum oenological maturity.”

This released was aged in 50% new oak.

Dark garnet/plum/purple colored, full bodied, full tannins and dense but balanced, smooth, polished and elegant, ripe dark raspberry, red and black currant and blueberry fruits with “loads of spice, earth, underbrush, licorice, and a hint of Provencal garrigue”, with silky tannins and a beautifully integrated tannin structure on a long and ‘very’ refined tannic structure.

RM 95 points.  

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/1123336

https://www.gruaud-larose.com/en/

https://hemmingwaysbistro.com/

https://hemmingwaysbistro.com/our-menu/

Happy New Year and Cheers in the year ahead! 

Big Reds Celebrate Big Red Win

Big Reds Celebrate Big Red Win

We gathered at son Alec’s to watch the B1G TEN Championship - IU, Indiana vs OSU, Ohio State. I took a special vintage Big Red wine for the occasion. Son Ryan brought another Big Red from one of our favorite, legendary producers, for a fabulous comparison tasting, and pairing with a selection of pizzas. 

I also took a Alec’s birthyear vintage label that has a legacy tied to Ryan’s employer for a special tasting celebrating our father-son family gathering for a special occasion. 

 We ordered a selection of pizza’s from nearby Freedom Brothers Pizza at Market Meadows, Naperville.

I wrote about this birth year vintage wine in earlier blogposts, Steak Night Red Wine Flight,  and about the Oakville Ranch property, its history and terroir in a previous, earlier detailed blogpost.

Oakville Ranch Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1990

This is from Oakville Ranch Vineyards and Winery, a hillside property in the foothills of the Vaca Mountains on the far eastern edge of the renowned Oakville AVA just above where Silverado Trail at Oakville Cross Road. 

This producer has some special significance due to its historic legacy.  The property was purchased by the late Bob Miner, co-founder or Oracle Corp, and his wife, Mary Miner, in 1989. the same year the Miner’s harvested and produced their first wine from the property. The original property was a rugged 370-acre estate, tucked into a rocky shelf 1000 feet above the Napa Valley floor consisting of primarily chaparral, woodlands made up of scrub oak, manzanita and other drought tolerant evergreens.  

Bob remained with Oracle until 1993, and after he succumbed to cancer at age 52 in 1994, Mary took over the management of the property. 

Since then, the principles increased vineyard plantings to 70 acres of predominantly Bordeaux varietals. In 2020 Oakville Ranch purchased the neighboring Saunder’s Vineyard and its approximately 10 acres of vines. The remainder of the ranch remains in its natural state, with indigenous grassy meadows, native woodlands and winding streams sustaining native flora and fauna. Today, they produce five wines and a total of 750 cases.

At 1,000 feet above the valley floor, the Oakville Ranch vineyards produce grapes that speak from the appellation’s signature red volcanic soil with a mountain accent. The property is among some of the most premium vineyard real estate in the valley – with several prestigious wineries as neighbors (including Ovid and Dalla Valle). 

The name Oakville Ranch predates the Miner family ownership, dating back to the early 1980s. The ranch was purchased in 1980 by five different ownership parties including John Scully and Don Kelleher, owner of Kelleher Family Vineyard and owners of Brix Restaurant just north of Yountville. For several years, the property was rented out as a retreat.

Prior to the 1980’s, the property was owned by lawyer William (Bill) McPherson of the Fairfield based firm, McPherson & Barnett and his wife Kim, who unsuccessfully ran for state senate in 1973. He maintained existing vineyards on the property. 

In the early 1940s the property was associated with Mert E. Robertson and a J.P. Twomey. According to an article from the Napa Journal in 1942, the U.S. Army raised horses on the property, intent on improving the quality and quantity of riding horses in the county.

The Miner’s also used to own the property that is now home to Miner Family Winery which is owned by Dave Miner, Bob’s nephew, who for some time managed the operations at Oakville Ranch. There is no physical winery on Oakville Ranch, the wines are produced at a facility in the Oak Knoll District. Farmer Phil Coturri has overseen the management of the Oakville Ranch vineyards since 2007.

The property ranged in elevation from about 600 feet to around 1,100 feet. Most of the property is in the Oakville sub appellation but a very small section is in Pritchard Hill. The shallow red, rocky soil is low in nutrients, ideal for producing small bunches of grapes with higher skin to juice ratios, with yields extremely low compared to valley floor grown fruit.

Oakville Ranch sources from specific vineyard blocks for their own wines. The remainder of the fruit produced on the property is sold under contracts to a select number of premium winery clients and noted winemakers including Rosemary Cakebread, Helen Keplinger and Andy Erickson. 

Oakville Ranch Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1990

This release was awarded 93 points by Wine Spectator and 92 points from Robert Parker. 

At thirty-five years of age it was still holding its body, color and fruit and was showing minor signs of diminution from aging. The cork was moist and saturated and was extracted in parts with and ahso two pronged cork puller. 

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, bright expressive concentrated but nicely balanced and integrated black currant, cherry and plum fruits with notes of cedar, cassis, spice and oak with moderate balanced tannins on the long finish. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=83701

https://www.oakvilleranch.com/ 

https://twitter.com/OakvilleRanch

@OakvilleRanch 

I then opened another vintage aged Napa Cab from our cellar. 

Outpost Winery Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

This Big Red is from Outpost Winery, located high atop Howell Mountain on Summit Lake Drive about 10 minutes outside of the small town of Angwin. At an elevation of 2200 feet the property is above the Napa Valley fog line at 1200 feet, the demarcation point between Napa Valley and Howell Mountain AVA designations. This elevation even experiences occasional light snowfall in the winter – in February 2022 up to 14 inches fell on Howell Mountain, blocking roads and causing a significant number of trees to fall. 

The property was originally part of Lamborn Family Vineyards, which sits across the road, started in 1971 when Bob and Mike Lamborn, father and son, purchased 40 acres on Howell Mountain. Eight of the acres were planted to vines. Grapes were planted here as far back as the 1880s. The first debut vintage release  in 1982, made by winemaker Randy Dunn, a friend and neighbor. The legendary acclaimed winemaker Heidi Barrett started making Lamborn wines in 1996. 

We visited the wonderful and hospitable Mike and Terry Lamborn at their estate high atop Howell Mountain during our Napa Valley Howell Mountain Wine Experience 2008 (shown below). 

In 1998 the Lamborns sold this property to Terry and Juli Pringle, who founded Outpost, built what is the current winery building, and produced their first wine that year. The first release was 400 cases of Zinfandel, produced by winemaker Ehren Jordan (of Failla Wines). It was produced at Turley Wine Cellars where Thomas Rivers Brown was assistant winemaker who became winemaker for Outpost in later vintages, including this one. 

Winemaker Thomas Brown continued to oversee production of the Outpost Wines, but he also made wine for a number of other premium labels and remains as consulting winemaker. 

Outpost is primarily known for their organically farmed Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon on the 42-acre estate (28 acres are planted to grapevines). Nearly all their wines are 100% varietal. Howell Mountain is a noted Zinfandel growing region in Napa Valley and a number of small ‘neighboring’ wineries also produce wines from this variety. 

Contributing to concentrated and rich wines are the property’s high elevation with its rocky and iron-rich soils combined with gentle cooling breezes and sunny western exposure.

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate says: "The Outpost wines have very distinct personalities, and stand quite apart from most of what is being made in Napa Valley today. The estate is located on Howell Mountain, in a very distinct microclimate that features a condensed growing season."

The Pringles sold the property in 2003 to Frank and Kathy and Dotzler, a native Chicagoan who ran a computer equipment company. They shared a passion for wine and honeymooned in Napa Valley in 199 which lead to their purchase of a twenty-acre site on Howell Mountain which they named True Vineyard. They planted nine acres planted to Bordeaux varieties and released their first vintage in 2008. Exploring building their own True Vineyard winery, they purchased the neighboring Outpost property with the existing winery. 

In July of 2018 the winery and the Outpost and True vineyards were sold to France based AXA Millésimes, owners of prestigious wineries across the globe, including Bordeaux's Château Pichon Baron, Château Pibran, and Château Suduiraut; Burgundy's Domaine de l'Arlot; Portugal's Quinta do Noval (Douro); Hungary's Disznókő (Tokaj); and in the U.S., besides Outpost Wines (Napa), Platt Vineyard on the Sonoma Coast.

After the sale of the vineyard to AXA Millésimes grapes from the 2021 vintage were produced and then the vineyard was completely replanted by mid 2022, overseen by Matt Hardin and Josh Clark of Hardin Clark Vineyard Management. The site was replanted to primarily Cabernet Sauvignon but also with smaller blocks of Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

Outpost Winery Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

This was a mini comparison toasting to Lamborn Howell Mtn Cabernet, from the adjoining vineyard and near vintage that we tasted a couple days later and featured in this blogpost - Oakville Grill and Cellar, Fulton Market, Chicago.

At twenty years of age, the foil and most importantly, the fill level and cork were pristine, as shown, and the painted glass overweight bottle had no paper label.

International Wine Cellar rated this 91 points and noted it was blended with 5% Cabernet Franc. 

This was aged on seventy-five percent new French Oak.  

Dark inky purple, a hint of bricking starting to show at the edge, full bodied, concentrated, expressive, complex, full round blackberry and black plum fruits with notes of cassis, dark mocha chocolate, spice, tobacco and leather with subtle note of graphite with firm round tannins on the long finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?219944

https://www.outpostwines.com/

Ryan then opened from his cellar this ultra-premium Napa Cabernet from one of our favorite producers. 

Melka "Metisse - Jumping Goat Vineyard" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

We’re huge fans of Phillip Melka and his wines which we have featured and written about often in these pages - such as these blogposts: 

Melka CJ Napa Valley Cabernet BYOB at Carnivore & Queen

Pirouette Red Blend at Sullivan’s Steakhouse Naperville

Château Boswell Napa Valley Estate Reserve Red Wine 2016

This is from the Melka Estate St. Helena Jumping Goat Vineyard, located on the eastern side of Saint Helena, at the base of the Mayacamas mountain range that forms that eastern wall of Napa Valley. On the valley floor, the old river bench site is mostly large gravelly sediments and a small portion of thinner clay and is protected from the northern and western winds. The 3 1/2 acre estate was planted in 1999, and is said to be reminiscent of the Graves area of Bordeaux.

The 2014 Métisse Jumping Goat is 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petit Verdot and 3% Merlot. It was aged in 70% new French oak for 18 months, just 385 cases were produced. 

This blockbuster, limited production, highly allocated wine was rated 96 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, 94 points by Vinous.

Winemaker notes - “This wine has our most loyal following and it is no surprise as to why. Similar to the Graves region in Bordeaux, the wine is perfumey, with a velvety texture so signature of the Jumping Goat. Aromatics of dark fruit, graphite, tar and creosote are complimented in a wine that exhibits opulence and softness harmoniously. The finish on this fabulous 2014 is bigger than previous years and we suggest decanting a good three hours prior to serving.”

Dark inky garnet colored, full-bodied, dense, concentrated and complex yet silky smooth elegant and polished, ripe blackberry and dark plum fruits with aromatic floral perfume, notes of creosote, leather, smoke, bittersweet chocolate, licorice and spice with hints of camphor and graphite, finishing with moderately sweet, refined tannins. 

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?2459646

https://www.melkaestates.com/