Oakville Grill and Cellar, Fulton Market, Chicago

Oakville Grill and Cellar, Fulton Market, Chicago

Sunday evening, we dined in the City, in Chicago’s Fulton Market district at the tony, trendy,  Oakville Grill and Cellar with fellow Pour Boys Lyle and Dan of our Wine Group. 

The upscale eatery, a Lettuce Entertain You restaurant, is stylish, rustic, contemporary California design and decorating, light, bright, airy, with an upbeat energetic vibe. 

The dining room and adjacent bar were festively decorated for the holiday season. 

Oakville Grill prepares California inspired Midwestern cuisine. Their “Quality Statement” says “The menus are inspired by the team’s partnerships with farms, ranches, and wineries throughout California and the Midwest ….  simply prepared dishes made with expertly sourced, seasonal ingredients.”

While unfortunately unavailable tonight, Lyle and Dan would’ve liked the normally offered as sides, ‘warm sourdough by middle brow, house-whipped butter’, and, ‘housemade focaccia bread with calabrian chili, olive truck olive oil’.

For my dinner entree, based on the extraordinary wines available, I ordered the filet of beef - ‘Creekstone filet au poivre, classic peppercorn sauce, mashed yellow finn potatoes and crispy parsley’.

Linda ordered the ‘coal roasted branzino with oven roasted tomato and buckley swiss chard’.

Dan ordered the ‘Harrison's Farm’s duck breast confit with farro risotto and local root vegetables’.

Linda ordered the ‘wood-fired brick chicken gilroy garlic confit, preserved lemon jus’.

The Oakville Grill and Cellar wine program specifically cites a “deliberate focus on high-quality, lesser-known California regions like Santa Barbara County and Santa Ynez Valley AVA’s”, as well as premiere high profile Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino, Paso Robles, and Santa Barbara regions and their sub-regions. 

Wines are organized by the varietal, then region. 

The Oakville Cellars wine selection features an extraordinary, magnificent 48 page leather bound wine list with an extensive selection of 750 plus premium, ultra-premium and cult California producers’ labels - some with multiple vintages, some with a broad rare and extensive special bottling offerings. 

There are seven pages devoted to the Reserve List of rare, highly allocated and super premium labels. 

There are also several pages of Half bottles, Large Format bottles, and a small selection of WBTG - Wines By the Glass. 

Dan and Lyle have dined there several times and have become accustomed to taking advantage of their BYOB policy. Tonight, we each brought favorite producers and special labels from our cellars for dinner.

In order of tasting … 

Lyle brought a Sangiovese Brunello

Altesino Brunello Di Montalcino 2018

We started with this Sangiovese based Brunello that Lyle brought from his cellar, since, as we expected, it was more delicate, than the bigger, bold Napa Cabs. This was ideal, better suited perhaps than the Big Reds, with the lighter entrees, the chicken, branzino, and even the duck. 

I wrote about this popular producer in detail in a previous blogpost - BYOB Brunello Italian Wine and Dine at Angeli’s Italian Naperville.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2024/11/byob-brunello-italian-wine-and-dine-at.html

This highly acclaimed release was rated 95 points by James Suckling, 93 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Jeb Dunnuck, and 92 points by Wine Spectator, Decanter and Vinous.  

Winemaker Notes - “Ruby-red with a garnet rim, this wine's bouquet displays ample aromas of violet, wild berries, tobacco, chocolate, and vanilla. On the palate, Altesino Brunello is rich, full-bodied, and velvety.”

Ruby-garnet colored, medium bodied, smooth, polished, full round dark raspberry and berry fruits with notes of tobacco, chocolate, dusty earth, dried flowers and black tea with fine soft tannins on the lingering finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?4481252

http://www.altesino.it/en/altesino/

Dan brought a Joseph Phelps Backus Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet. 

Joseph Phelps Backus Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

Our Joseph Phelps Napa Valley Winery Visit and Tasting, arranged and hosted by Dan, as featured in this blogpost, was a highlight of our Pour Boys 2017 Sonoma/Napa Wine Experience - a private tasting at the spectacular Joseph Phelps Vineyards and Winery hospitality center. 

The magnificent Phelps winery, tasting facility sits overlooking Phelp's vineyards nestled in its own Spring Valley above St Helena on the western facing foothills of the Vaca range that form the eastern face of Napa Valley. 

Joseph Phelps Vineyards was founded in 1973 when Joe Phelps purchased a former cattle ranch near St. Helena in the Napa Valley, the winery now controls and farms nearly 375 acres of vines on eight estate vineyards in St. Helena, the Stags Leap District, Oakville, Rutherford, Oak Knoll District, Carneros and South Napa Valley. 

Phelps is best known for its flagship Napa Valley blend of red Bordeaux varietals, Insignia, first produced in 1974. Awarded Wine Spectator's "Wine of the Year" in 2005. Equally revered is this highly allocated single vineyard designated label from the esteemed estate Backus Vineyard in Oakville. Dan has an extensive collection of this label, procured as part of his Phelp’s Wine Club allocations over the years. 

As I noted in these page when Dan served this wine at his daughter Hillary’s wedding, Gala celebration dinner features Phelps Backus - Insignia Napa Cabernets, you know its a special wine when each bottle label has its own serial number. Such is the premier selection of the Joseph Phelps collection.

This release was rated 96 points by Jeb Dunnuck and Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, and 93-96 points by  Vinous. 

The 2014 Backus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon  is a blend of 96% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Malbec and was aged in 100% new French oak.

Dark garnet/purple colored, full bodied, opulent, hedonistic, rich and concentrated black berry and black currant fruits with notes of cassis, dark mocha chocolate, earth, clove spice, graphite, truffle and cedar, with ripe tannins on a long finish. 

RM 95 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?2454790

https://www.josephphelps.com/

Then, for a comparison of a bottle we drank the previous evening at another dinner gathering, I brought a vintage Napa Valley Howell Mountain Cabernet.

Lamborn Howell Mountain Generation I Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 

Lamborn Family Vineyards is a small boutique family operation focused on distinctive terroir handcrafted Estate Cabernets and Zinfandel from their vineyards high up Howell Mountain, 10 minutes outside of the small town of Angwin in the northern Napa Valley Howell Mountain appellation. At an elevation of 2200 feet, the property is above the 1200 ft. Napa Valley fog line, the line of demarcation between Napa Valley and Howell Mtn AVA’s. With it’s near summit elevation, it occasionally experiences some winter snowfall - in February 2022 they got nearly 14 inches, blocking roads and toppling trees.

Lamborn Family Vineyards was started in 1971 when Bob and Mike Lamborn, a father and his adult son, purchased 40 acres on Howell Mountain. Eight acres are planted to vines. The 1982 debut vintage was made by winemaker Randy Dunn, a friend and neighbor. The legendary acclaimed winemaker Heidi Barrett started making Lamborn wines in 1996. 

We visited the wonderful and hospitable Mike and Terry Lamborn at their estate high atop Howell Mountain during our Napa Valley Howell Mountain Wine Experience 2008 (shown below). 

Mike and Terry Lamborn with wine buddy Andy, sister
Jan, Linda, and brother-in-law Bill

This Lamborn Howell Mountain Cabernet is very similar to the Outpost Howell Mountain 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon label we tasted earlier this weekend, one vintage removed, and sourced from vines literally across the road from each other, that years earlier, prior to 1998, were part of the same vineyard. That wine was featured in this blogpost - Big Reds Celebrate Big Red Win.

At twenty-two years, this is showing no discernable signs of aging, except for the dry but otherwise perfect cork that started to separate on opening. Of course the label is perfect, since it’s painted onto the glass of the large, oversize heavy bottle. 

Robert Parker wrote, “there is no question that there are some surprisingly youthful 2003s that will last much longer than any of us thought at their inception.”

This 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon was aged 22 months in French oak of which 35% was new. It is a big red packaged in a heavy, oversize, premium painted glass in lieu of label bottle. 

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, classic intense Howell Mountain black fruits with complex rich textured  notes of cassis, licorice, spice and earth with a pleasant, smooth tannin lingering finish. 

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?1182340

https://www.theoakville.com/

Pour Boys ‘Winers & Diners’ Gala Wine Dinner

Pour Boys ‘Winers & Diners’ Gala Cityscape Wine Dinner    

Our Pour Boys wine group gathered in Chicago at Lyle and Terry’s for their nearly annual ‘Winers & Diners’ Cityscape end of summer wine dinner. On a beautiful waning summer/autumn evening, we started on their fabulous deck with partial views of the city skyline, for hors d'oeuvres, appetizers and soup.  

Joining the host and hostess Lyle and Terry, and daughter Abbie, were John coming in from Williamsburg, Ernie, Dan and Linda, coming in from Indiana, Beth and Bill, coming in from Charleston, Leslie and Jorg, and Linda and me (not shown, taking picture).

As usual, Terry and Lyle assisted by their niece, Adrienne Busatti, prepared and served a spectacular extensive menu for the fabulous formal sit-down dinner.

Appetizers: 

Hot individual grilled lamb ribs

Cold shrimp with cocktail sauce

Cheezes, crackers, multiple preparations of deviled eggs, 

Spicy pumpkin soup 

Dinner:

Grilled tenderloin of beef 

Garlic red potatoes

Suspiciously delicious cabbage

Charred asparagus with bacon & truffle salt

Dessert course:

Terry’s incredible signature Mandarin orange cake 

Aunt Iris's Ohio Apple cake

Profiteroles filled with ice cream and sauces or fruit

Followed by Autumn chocolates. Fresh raspberries, shelled pistachios and mixed nuts on the table …

As usual we assembled a fabulous wine flight for each course of the evening starting with Champagnes, White Wines, Red Wines and finishing with Vintage Port. 

John O'Brien rejoined the group traveling in from Williamsburg, and ‘Champagne John’ brought his customary flight of ultra-premium Champagnes -

Krug Brut Champagne 2004 

Bollinger La Grande Annee Champagne 2015

We were rejoined by Jorge and Leslie Balandrin who brought from their home cellar a selection of fabulous ultra-premium white wines …

La Poussie Sancerre 2022

E. Guigal La Doriane Condrieu 2023

Kongsgard Napa Valley Carneros Chardonnay 2021

We then moved to a broad extensive flight of reds featuring red blends from the Right Bank, then the Left Bank of Bordeaux, following by a line-up of usual suspects, our favorite producers’ flagship labels. 

As usual, I spent time carefully preparing and tasting the wines to establish the suggested tasting order for the evening, as shown below, accordingly, which was curated and validated throughout the evening:

 

Château Larmande St Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2005

Château Lafon Rochet St Estephe Grand Cru Classe 2005 

Château Leoville Las Cases Grand vin Leoville du Marquis St Julien 2016 

Château Cos d’Estournel St Estephe Grand Cru Classe 2009

Moving to the Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons … 

Plumpjack Founder’s Reserve Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 1996

Hall Wines Napa Valley Kathryn Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 

Beaulieu Vineyards Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

Freemark Abbey Napa Valley Bosche’ Vineyard Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

Joseph Phelps Insignia Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

 Following with the dessert course accompaniment:

Niepoort Vintage Port 1997 

Many thanks to Lyle and Terry for hosting, and to those that traveled from afar, and to everyone for bringing some spectacular wines for a joyous and memorable evening. 

PS. 

Notes and Notable - 

WOTN - Wine of the Night for several (including me) was the Phelps Insignia - dark and brooding, big bold expressive firm structured full bodied black fruits with notes of cedar, cigar box, dark mocha chocolate - actually a blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon with 9% Petit Verdot, 2% Malbec and 2% Cabernet Franc. Biggest and most expressive Insignia ever experienced. 

Second WOTN - Crowd Pleaser …. Kathryn Hall - dark garnet colored, sensuous, silky smooth polished, elegant, opulent, sweet ripe dark berry fruits with sweet mocha, sweet tannins - another blend - 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot.

Another WOTN candidate - Cos d’Estournel - bright garnet - medium to full bodied, surprisingly big, bold, forward and expressive black berry fruits - sumptuous round smooth tannin laced finish. Best Cos on memory! 

Freemark Abbey Bosche’ - surprisingly big, bold, forward, expressive black berry & cherry fruits - almost obtuse, needed time to settle - more approachable on day two. 

BV Georges de Latour - Surprise high achiever - big bold, expressive, complex, earthy, smoky dark berry fruits with notes of black tea, creosote and tobacco on moderate tannin finish. 

Leoville Las Cases - Surprisingly subdued, lacking bold or expressive sprites - elegantly balanced - perhaps going through remissive closed phase …  flawless?

Plumpjack Founders Reserve - Going on thirty - fill level and cork still pristine - dark garnet - barnyard funky on opening, needed decant and two hours to reveal full round black berry fruits with spice, tobacco, cedar and leather finish. Also better on day two. 

Pour Boys tasting red wines with blue cheese assortment

Pour Boys Wine Weekend Kick-off continues with red wine tasting with blue cheese assortment 

Following our Pour Boys Wine Weekend Kick-off Dinner, early dinner on the eve of our Pour Boys ‘Winers & Diners’ Gala Wine Dinner, we came home and had a relaxed evening socializing, catching up, and sipping some wines with artisan cheeses and fresh fruits. 

Inspired by the special feature in the current issue of Wine Spectator on blue cheeses paired with wines, I had gone out and picked up selection of Murray’s Blues - Cotswald, Cave Gorgonzola, Blue Stilton and Smokehaus Blue. We enjoyed these with assorted biscuits/crackers and fresh berries, pears and apples. 

All of these were fabulous and enhanced the wine pairing with the red wines. I especially liked the Cotswald and the Blue Stilton! 

We have many wines in our cellar acquired with fellow Pour Boy Bill, or tasted at special tastings or wine producer visits together. So it is that we pull these to revisit with Bill when the occasion arises. One such wine is from Arns on Howell Mountain that we visited together during our Napa Wine Experience in 2013 as featured in this blogpost - Arns Napa Valley Estate Vineyards Visit. We tasted and acquired this label at the winery that day.

Here we are with John Arns in the Arns Winery and Vineyarda barrel room. 

Arns "Estate Grown" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 

We first discovered Arns in Washington DC at Andy Bassin’s MacArthur Wines. Co-producer Sandy Belcher hails from Virginia and would take wine back to supply MacArthurs during her pilgrimages home. 

This release was part of the flight of Arns Cabs we tasted and subsequently acquired at the winery during our visit in 2013. 

This release was rated 92 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, and 90 points by Connoisseur’s Guide, 89 points by Wine Enthusiast.

Dark garnet colored with purple hues, medium to full-bodied, focused, concentrated, structured blackberry and blackcurrant fruit flavors with notes of dark mocha chocolate, cassis and expresso on a lingering tannin laced finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2445860

Another joy of having a cellar collection is to share favored wines with friends. Trolling the cellar, Bill came across and was eager to try this producer label which we opened to enjoy with the cheeses and fruits. 

Long Shadows Vintners Collection Pirouette 2017

We’re members of the Long Shadows wine club and hold nearly a decade of vintages of their various label releases.

Checking our cellar inventory, we hold nearly a decade of vintages of this label so we pulled one of the oldest in our holdings, and one year adjacent to a recent earlier release tasting. We supplemented our wine club allocation with several bottles of this label acquired at auction, which we opened tonight. 

As I wrote in a recent blogpost - Pirouette Red Blend at Sullivan’s Steakhouse Naperville, this is one of our favorite labels for a Bordeaux varietal red blend, a sleeper, not well known or sufficiently regarded, given the pedigree of the winemaker and the quality of the product. 

This is the Bordeaux varietal red blend from the Long Shadows Vintners's Collection that features world class winemakers and Washington State Columbia Valley fruit. 

This label is produced in collaboration with legendary winemakers Philippe Melka, named one of the top nine winemakers in the world by Robert Parker, and Agustin Huneeus, Sr., another legendary wine producer. 

We visited their initial collaborative project, August Huneeus’ Quintessa Vineyards, crafted by Philippe Melka, as part of our Napa Valley Wine Experience back in 2003.  

I’ve written about Philip Melka numerous times in these pages including that tasting at Sullivan’s Steakhouse post and previously - Château Boswell Napa Valley Estate Reserve Red Wine 2016. I featured Huneeus in a recent blogpost here - Faust Napa Cab with St Pat’s Dinner.

We’ve featured Long Shadows and their vintners collection in these pages, including our visit to their hospitality center and tasting room in Woodinville (WA), as part of Seattle Wine and Dine - Washington State Wines Tastings in Woodinville.

The 2017 Pirouette is a left-bank Bordeaux blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 13% Malbec, and the rest Petit Verdot, crafted from small lots from Washington State's finest vineyards.  It was aged 22 months in French oak barrels with 85% being new.

 

Winemaker notes - “The Cabernet Sauvignon, primarily sourced from a collection of Red Mountain’s best vineyards, gives Pirouette the structure and textured richness that has come to characterize this acclaimed growing region. A small percentage of old vine Cabernet from Sagemoor Vineyard, planted in 1972, adds complexity. Merlot brings juicy richness to the finished wine. Malbec from Sonnet Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills adds spice. Finally, Dionysus Vineyard’s Petit Verdot enhances the wine’s color and contributes to the wine’s layers of intense aromas and flavors.’

“The 2017 Pirouette has an expressive nose with a firm core of dark fruit and mocha flavors, displaying a layered concentration of black cherry and well-integrated oak spices. Vibrant and full-bodied across the mid-palate, this is a texturally pleasing wine with a broad and lengthy finish.” 

This was a blockbuster release, rated 96 points by Jeb Dunnuck and International Wine Report, 94 by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate and 93 by Steve Tanzer.

Dunnuck wrote - “It can be drunk today but will develop additional complexity with 3-4 years of bottle age and keep for two decades or more.”

Dark ruby colored, full bodied, vibrant expressive expressive vibrant blackberry, plum and black currant fruits with savory accents of cinnamon and clove spice, bitter dark chocolate and crème de cassis with smooth polished tannins on a sumptuous finish.

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?3581703

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3581703

https://longshadows.com/library/pirouette/6951

https://longshadows.com/

@LongShadowsWine

@unwindwine

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2025/04/big-reds-with-tomahawk-beefsteaks.html?spref=tw

Pour Boys Summer Wine Dinner

Pour Boys Summer Wine Dinner 

Dr Dan and Linda hosted our Pour Boys Wine Group (sans Bill and Beth C who were traveling in St Julien, Bordeaux this week) for a gala summer dinner. 

As is customary, we each brought a couple bottles of wines to share and compare for pairing with the food. 

The ‘three amigos’ were reunited with Bob and Gloria flying in from Miami for the occasion. 

Besides Linda and I and Bob and Gloria, we were joined by Dan’s friends, Joe and Linda, and Linda S, as well as our Pour Boys Wine Group regulars, Ernie, Eric and Cathy and Lyle and Terry. 

Dan laid out his usual selection of artisan cheeses, nuts, chocolates, crackers and smoked salmon. 

The dinner feature theme this evening was ‘Sausage’ and there were five different sausages for the entree course, accompanied by corn on the cob, baked beans, potato salad, bean salad, quiche casserole and accoutrements. 

The sausages included Joe’s homemade Italian Sausage with cheese, Sheboygan Bratwurst, Polish Sausage, Chicken Sausage, and Dan’s legendary family favorite, Cavapcici. 

After dinner there was a dessert sundae bar with ice cream and toppings, and a broad selection of Linda M’s home baked cookies, brownies, pierogis and assorted artisan chocolates, nuts, fresh berries, melon and pineapple with yogurt.

The collective group brought a wide selection of white and red wines as well as sparkling wine and champagne before dinner, and after dinner ‘sticky’ dessert wines and a vintage port. 

The White Wine flight included  …

Domaine Wachau Ried Traunthal Gruner Veltliner Federspiel 

Dr Loosen Erdenner Treppchen Mosel Riesling Ausliese 2019 

Darioush Napa Valley Viognier 2010 

Chateau Montelena Napa Valley Chardonnay 2020   

Sea Smoke Sta Rita Hills Chardonnay 2018

The Red Wine flight included …

Le Fonti Poggino Gran Selzione Chianti Classico 2018

Nino Negri Valtelina Superiore Inferno Ca’ Guicciardi (Nebbiolo) 2020

Sea Smoke Southing Sta Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2018

Peter Michel “Les Pavots” Knights Valley Red Wine 2012 

Chateau Magdeleine St Emilion Premiere Grand Cru Classe 2011 

Hickinbotham “Brook’s Road”  McLaren Vale Clarendon Shiraz 2020 

After Dinner dessert wines … 

Chateau d’Yquem 2013 

Far Niente Dolce Napa Valley Late Harvest 2014

Graham’s Vintage Port 1991 

Unlike our typical wine dinners, that most often feature red meats and customary pairings of sophisticated Red Wines, tonight’s entree theme offered the chance to showcase and focus on White Wines as select food/wine pairings. 

The White Wines … 

Domaine Wachau Ried Traunthal Gruner Veltliner Federspiel 

Eric brought this classic Austrian Gruner Veltliner that he and Cathy tasted and acquired at the winery during their trip to the region last summer. 

Dr. Loosen Erdenner Mosel River Valley Treppchen Riesling Auslese 2019 

I brought from our cellar this highly rated premium Mosel Treppchen Riesling Auslese from a classic legendary producer.  Only the finest most select grapes are used in the “Auslese” (outstanding) bottling. This release was rated 95 points by both Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate and James Suckling. 

Darioush Napa Valley Viognier 2010 

I also brought this interesting Viognier from ultra-premium Napa Valley producer Darioush, tasted and acquired at the winery during our Pour Boy’s Napa Valley Wine Experience 2017 - Darioush Napa Valley Estate Winery Visit & Tasting. 

This was the favorite wine of Dan’s daughter, Lauren, who accompanied us on that trip, which was also Linda A’s first Napa Valley wine experience. Darioush was also the featured producer at the first wine dinner we had with Bill and Beth C, which was the beginnings of what became our Pour Boys Wine Group. 

Also, Dan was our guest at a special Darioush Winemaker dinner at Everest Restaurant in Chicago hosted by owner producer Darioush and Shaptar Khaledi celebrating their collaboration with Olivier Bernard and Domaine de Chevalier in Pesaac Leognan Bordeaux. This was held back in 2004.shortly after Linda and I visited the winery and did a barrel tasting with winemaker Steve McDevitt during the construction of their magnificent hospitality center.

We had two wonderful ultra/premium Chardonnay’s …. Both offered great pairings with the sausage selections.

Chateau Montelena Napa Valley Chardonnay 2020   

Joe brought this classic, legendary Napa Valley crowd pleaser from Chateau Montelena. Of course, this was the label that put American wine on the map having won the historic blind tasting “Judgement of Paris”, chronicled and recreated in the wonderful entertaining wine movie, “Bottle Shock” - (Trailer).

 

Sea Smoke Sta Rita Hills Chardonnay 2018

Dan opened from his cellar collection, wine club allocation, Sea Smoke, a great comparison tasting to the Montelena. 

The Red Wines … 

Le Fonti Poggino Gran Selzione Chianti Classico 2018

Eric brought this Italian Sangiovese blend, acquired by one of his partners at the producer during a visit to the Chianti region in Northern Italy. 

https://www.lefontipoggibonsi.it/

Nino Negri Valtelina Superiore Inferno Ca’ Guicciardi (Nebbiolo) 2020

We tasted and Dan acquired this premium Nebbiolo at one of the Italian Village featured producer wine dinners. We’ve dined together at several Italian Village producer wine dinners, the most notably arguably being the memorable Sassicaia Owner Dinner and Vivere Vertical Tasting.

Peter Michel “Les Pavots” Knights Valley Red Wine 2012

Ernie brought from his home cellar one of my favorites, this vintage aged highly allocated ultra-premium Alexander Valley Bordeaux Blend from Peter Michel.

Chateau Magdeleine St Emilion Premiere Grand Cru Classe 2011

Dan contributed from his cellar this vintage aged Bordeaux.  

Hickinbotham “Brook’s Road”  McLaren Vale Clarendon Shiraz 2020 

Lyle brought from his home cellar this highly rated allocated limited release Aussie Shiraz. It received 95 points by Wine enthusiast. 

After 40 years of Hickinbotham family ownership, the property was purchased by the Jackson family in 2012. The pedigree of the Hickinbotham Vineyards was long established in that prior to the change of ownership, grapes from the 85-hectare vineyard were only sold to an esteemed list of winemakers including including Penfolds, Clarendon Hills and Hardys. Hickinbotham grapes were credited to legendary flagship wines like Penfolds Grange and Eileen Hardy Shiraz. Only Clarendon Hills released vineyard-designate wines bearing the “Hickinbotham” name.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4365339

https://www.hickinbothamwines.com/wines/brooks-road-shiraz

Sea Smoke Southing Sta Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2018

Dan opened his cellar to share this wine club acquisition ultra-premium Sta Rita Hills Pinot. 

After dinner there was a dessert sundae bar with ice cream and toppings, and a broad selection of Linda M’s home baked cookies, brownies, pierogis and assorted artisan chocolates, nuts, fresh berries, melon and pineapple with yogurt. 

The dessert wine flight …

Chateau d’Yquem 2013 

Far Niente Dolce Napa Valley Late Harvest 2014

Graham’s Vintage Port 1991

Lyle brought from his cellar collection this premium Vintage Port. This is one of the last remaining bottles of the four cases he acquired of this label upon release. We’ve enjoyed tasting this wine over the last three decades as it has aged gracefully. 

At 30 plus years, the label, foil and most importantly the fill level were ideal for the age. Lyle was able to extract the cork using an ahso two pronged cork puller, necessary as the aged cork was starting to crumble and would’ve most likely disintegrated using a customary corkscrew. 

Vintage Port is only produced in ‘declared’ vintages, those of sufficient quality to warrant the designation.The 1991 vintage was the first ‘Declared Vintage’ for six years – the longest gap between declarations for decades. (The previous declared vintage, 1985 was son Sean’s birthyear, in which we acquired and still hold a broad horizontal collection of labels commemorating such.) 

At thirty-four years, this is entering another stage of its tasting profile, perhaps, some would argue, now reaching the apex, but, the last stage of its optimal tasting window.

Chateau d’Yquem 2013 

Ernie brought from his home cellar, multi-decade vertical collection, this ultra-premium classic Sauternes Chateau D’Yquem, considered a ‘first growth’ by many, always a special treat! We’ve enjoyed this label in several of our wine dinners including D'Yquem, Quintessa, Saxum Highlight OTBN 2016 - Three tastings flights.

Far Niente Dolce Napa Valley Late Harvest 2014

Linda S brought this imaginative, rare, ‘new world’ late harvest Sauternes style ‘botritized’ dessert wine, Dolce - a wonderful comparison to the classic ‘old world’ legend Chateau d’YQuem. Ironically, I pulled from our cellar and considered bringing this same label, albeit a different (older) vintage. It was great that Linda brought this for a special comparison and pairing. It also allowed me the opportunity to witness the aging of my vintage bottle (s). 

This is from ultra-premium Napa Valley producer Far Niente who boast being “America’s only winery to specialize in a single, exquisite dessert wine crafted in the cherished Sauternes style”. 

They have fun with this wine they call Dolce, which derives it’s name from “Dolce far niente", an Italian phrase that translates to "the sweetness of doing nothing".

This is a 90-10 blend of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc, sourced from the 20-acre Dolce Vineyard situated east of Napa in Coombsville at the foot of the Vaca Mountains. This was aged 30 months in 100% new French oak. 

We enjoyed this wine together with Dan and Linda, Bob and Gloria, and Bill and Beth, at our festive Pour Boys Wine Dinner at Del Ray Beach Wine Kitchen.

Photo (left) taken from that dinner. 

https://farniente.com/wineries/dolce

Thanks and kudos to Linda and Dan for hosting another festive gala dinner. 

BYOB Fine Wines and Live Jazz at Suzette’s Creperie Wheaton

BYOB Fine Wines - Wayfarer and Domaine Serene, and Live Jazz at Suzette’s Creperie Wheaton

Fellow Pour Boy Dr. Dan and Linda joined us for Saturday night dinner at Suzette’s Creperie in Wheaton (IL). We took BYOB from our cellar a premium red and white wine for the occasion, to be options based on our menu selections. 

Prior to heading out, we sipped on a seasonal Provençal Rose’ with appetizers, artisan Wisconsin cheeses, fresh berries, chocolate cherries and mixed nuts, and, Linda prepared some fresh artful Strawberry’s with fresh mozzarella cheese and basil. 

Landmark Creamery, Belleville, Wisconsin Gouda Duet - pasteurized cow and sheep milk cheese, and Grand Cru from Roth Cheese, Monroe, WI. 

Caves d'Esclans “The Palm” Whispering Angel Côtes de Provence, Rose’ Blend 2024

Just having finished reading one of Peter Mayles’ classic books about Provence, I was inspired to imbibe in some traditional Rose’. Also, our French friend, Phillipe, from the area, who hosted us that trip, will be visiting this weekend so I’m getting prepped for further wine and travel discussions coming up. 

Anyone who thinks Provençal Rose’s are modest or unsophisticated wines are in for a surprise. We discovered and experienced another such wine as part to the Premium Wine Pairing at Three Michelin Star Alinea restaurant year before last - Domaines Ott Château de Selle Côtes de Provence Mourvedre Blend Rose' 2020. 

That incredible dinner and wine flight are featured in this blogpost - Magnificent Dinner at Alinea Kitchen Table. 

We drove through the region and through Côtes de Provence along the Cote d’ Azur during our Four days in Provence - Aix - Meyrargues trip in 2019. The area is featured in a separate blogpost about that trip - Red Wine with Chili? Bandol.

The winemakers at Caves d'Esclans produce what some consider some of the world's greatest Rose’ wines. This is produced from estate vineyard’s grapes as well as select best quality grapes obtained from relationships with local grape growers. 

Château d’Esclans is situated in the heart of Provence, northeast of St. Tropez. The Château and estate were 2006 by Sacha Lichine whose vision was to create the greatest rosés in the world. He is credited with igniting the “Rosé Renaissance” and produces a portfolio of seven different variations of the classic Provençal wine. 

This is the sixteenth vintage release of Château d’Esclans Whispering Angel. It is a blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Rolle (Vermentino) grapes. The cepage or percent/ types of different grape varieties that will make up the ultimate blend will differ with each new vintage, containing varietals Grenache, Cinsault, Rolle, Vermentino, Syrah and/or Tibouren. however the taste profile will remain much the same.

It was rated 92 points by James Suckling.

Pale pink colored, medium bodied, round, flavorful bone dry raspberry and strawberry fruits with bright spicy, tangy crisp acidity with a smooth lush finish.

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=5345601

https://www.esclans.com/

We've featured Suzette's Crêperie Wheaton several times in these pages, such as this one back in May last year in this blogpost.  

Suzette's Crêperie in nearby Wheaton (IL), is one of the few authentic French cuisine eateries in the western suburbs, and one of our favorite go-to casual fine dining sites. 

Sited downtown Wheaton city centre, adjacent the convenient muni parking garage, a block from the Metra station, Suzette's offers intimate casual fine dining, al fresco dining out front or on the rear patio, a private dining room for special dinners, and a bar, adjacent the authentic Suzette's Boulangerie & Pâtisserie, a French inspired bakery.  

A special treat on summer Saturday nights, Suzette’s featured live music in the cozy intimate dining room. 

Tonight, we were entertained by Judy Roberts playing piano and singing, and Greg Fishman on the Xylophone, flute and saxophone. 

Judy has been called “Chicago’s Favorite Jazz Woman,” by the Chicago Tribune, she is recognized worldwide for her jazz performances. She has received multiple Grammy nominations and has performed at international jazz festivals from Singapore to Holland to Monterey, California and Newport Beach, and, Chicago’s London House will always be her flagship. 

  

Greg, acclaimed nationally and internationally as an artist and teacher, has performed with Woody Hermann’s Big Band and countless other well-known performers. With multiple recordings and numerous publications, he is a teacher and mentor to many young musicians emerging on today’s music scene today. Greg is one of the foremost experts on the music of Stan Getz.

As featured in earlier previous posts in these pages, we started with the the Chicken Liver Mousse and Country Style Pâté, served with Dijon mustard, Cornichons and delicious Red Onion Marmalade with toasted Brioche on the side, and the Three Cheese Soufflé with Goat, Blue and Gruyere Cheeses.

Linda M selected the 'daily special' Sole Meunière, which is one of my favorite dishes.

Suzette's Sole Meunière is served in the classic French style, Filets of Sole were dredged in flour, pan fried in butter and served with the resulting brown butter herb sauce, parsley and lemon, alongside spring vegetables and mashed potatoes. Wonderful, delicious, as usual.

Linda A and I both selected one of the evening’s Specials - Braised Beef with Papardelle Pasta in a brown beef and carrot sauce. Portions were ample including the amount of beef and the dish was delectable.  

Dan ordered the Duck Confit Duck Breast with Rich Duck Jus on a Bed of Mushroom Risotto, which was also delectable.

I brought two of our favorite wines that I believe may be among the best drinking selections from our cellar for pairing with tonight’s entree choices. 

Knowing one of us would likely be ordering the Sole, we brought BYOB from our home cellar one of our current favorite rich Chardonnay's as an accompaniment,Wayfarer Sonoma Coast Chardonnay.

Wayfarer Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2018

This is from the Fort Ross-Seaview sub-region in the Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County appellation. 

We’ve enjoyed various vintages of this label BYOB at multiple restaurants over the past couple of years including, ironically, previously on this same date, including ... Wayfarer Chardonnay BYOB at Carnivore & Queen.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2023/12/wayfarer-chardonnay-byob-at-carnivore.html#more

I featured an earlier release of this label back last June in this blogpost, Wayfarer Sonoma County Seaview Ross Chardonnay with lobster and fresh corn on the cob. In that post, I wrote in depth then about the producer, vineyard site and this label which bears repeating so it’s excerpted below.

We toured the Sonoma Coast and Sonoma County and Russian River Valley during our Napa Sonoma Wine Experience in 2017.

Notably, in recent months prior to that post, we'd made five trips and had a dozen and half seafood dinners on the Gulf Coast, and had explored and enjoyed a wide selection of ultra-premium Chardonnays - SeaSmoke, Kistler, Wayfarer, Far Niente, Domaine Serene Reserve, and others. In the end, this was the most expressive, distinctive, bright and vibrant of any of our recent Chardonnay selections.

Son Ryan discovered and turned me on to this label. While picking up a Bordeaux futures delivery at Binny's, our Chicagoland Beverage Superstore, I found and picked up the last few remaining bottles in stock. 

This is from well known Napa Valley producer Jayson Pahlmeyer known for his Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red “California Mouton” Bordeaux varietal wines. Jayson collaborated with the great winemaker Helen Turley and together produced consistently award-winning wines. 

We're huge fans of Pahlmeyer wines of which we hold many labels across several vintages in our cellar, which are featured regularly in these pages. 

After nearly 30 years as an acclaimed Napa Valley vintner Jayson Pahlmeyer became increasingly entranced by the wines of Burgundy. “Every oenophile eventually gravitates to the wines of Burgundy,” he says. In the early 1990s, Jayson began seeking out the finest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vineyards in the world.

A close friend, legendary French wine importer Martine Saunier, had located two parcels for sale in Burgundy – Clos de la Roche, a Grand Cru Pinot Noir vineyard in Côte de Nuits Grand Cru, and Corton Vergennes, a Grand Cru Chardonnay vineyard in Corton. Pahlmeyer's notable winemaker, Helen Turley, was to make the wine with the hands-on assistance of the renowned Michel Niellon at his Chassagne-Montrachet winery. However, just after the papers were signed, the deal was nullified by an obscure Burgundian real estate clause that permitted last-minute alternative offers.

Helen Turley discovered Wayfarer, an organic farm on remote ridges on the Sonoma Coast, named for the dream of its owners, Dave and Dorothy Davis, to travel the world. Her own vineyard, Marcassin estate and vineyards were just down the road and Helen understood well the extraordinary character of fruit this land could yield. 

 

When the Davises listed the farm for sale in 1998, Turley brought good friend and fellow vintner Jayson Pahlmeyer to survey the site. Pahlmeyer recognized the proximity to the ocean and cool sea air tempering the brilliant sun, with Goldridge soil with thick forest of redwoods to the east and fog-blanketed bluffs to the west, had the potential to produce world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Helen declared it destined to be “the La Tache of California” and Jayson promptly claimed the land for his own.

Jason selected legendary viti-culturalist and producer David Abreu to plant the Wayfarer vineyard in 2002, and in 2005, Jayson started blending Wayfarer Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with fruit from Russian River vineyards, bottling it under the Pahlmeyer label. By 2012, the vineyard’s exceptional fruit produced wine worthy of its own vineyard designated namesake label. Jayson tapped his daughter, Cleo Pahlmeyer, to oversee Wayfarer. 

Wayfarer vineyard's 30 undulating acres lie in the Fort Ross-Seaview 27,500-acre sub-appellation on the far north-western end of the Sonoma Coast AVA. Defined as a distinct appellation in 2011, the extreme landscape is often deemed “the true Sonoma Coast” as it overlooks the Pacific beaches and receives the cool wind and fog from the frigid California Current flowing down the coast. The entire appellation resides above the fog line at an elevation of 800 feet and higher, above the fogline thereby allowing ample sunshine for ripening. Situated on a jagged portion of the San Andreas Fault, most of the acreage is unfarmable due its dramatic terrain. The 21 acres of vineyards are planted primarily to Pinot Noir, with some Chardonnay and slight amount of Syrah.

We visited the area and drove the scenic rugged Sonoma Coast, staying in Bodega Bay, during our Napa/Sonoma County Wine Experience back in 2017.  

Cleo Pahlmeyer, proprietor/general manager of Wayfarer, was raised in Napa in the wine business and culture. After receiving a BA in Art History from the University of Virginia, she went on to earn a Master’s Degree in Connoisseurship of Fine and Decorative Art at Sotheby’s Institute of Art in London.

Returning to the family winery in 2008 after working in the international art world, Cleo worked closely with her father to learn every aspect of the family business. Beginning in sales and progressing to manage direct to consumer sales and marketing, then public relations, she went on to be appointed President in 2017.

Wayfarer is a family affair, with Cleo, a mother of three, mentored by her father, and joined by her husband, Jamie Watson, who pours his own passion for wine into Wayfarer. “I must be my father’s daughter,” Cleo explains, “because like him, I have naturally gravitated to Pinot Noir. Wayfarer is a very special place for me personally. It has a soul that can only be felt by breathing in its air, walking on its soil, feeling its warmth."

Wayfarer's winemaker is Todd Kohn who grew up in Redding, three hours north of Sonoma. After graduating from UC Davis with a degree in Viticulture and Enology, Todd first worked at the California sparkling wine house, Schramsberg, where he worked in the vineyard, lab and cellar, learning all aspects of winegrowing and winemaking. He went to gain further experience at several premiere Napa Valley wine producers including Opus One. He then spent time in Australia working in the Mornington Peninsula region of Australia where he worked growing and crafting world class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Todd joined Wayfarer in 2013 as Assistant to the Winemaker, working the next 5 years with the Consulting Winemaker to establish Wayfarer’s vineyard practices and winemaking techniques, before taking the helm as Winemaker in December of 2017.

Just this month, Wayfarer was featured in a small piece in Wine Spectator Magazine noting the remoteness of their estate, and the recent opening of a hospitality center tasting room in downtown Healdsburg. 

Wayfarer Wayfarer Vineyard Sonoma County Seaview Ross Chardonnay 2018

This is the ultra-premium flagship label for Wayfarer Chardonnay. While Cleo Pahlmayer, Proprietor, oversees the operations, Founder Jason Pahlmeyer's signature conspicuously adorns the label. 

Tonight we drank the 2018 vintage of this label, the oldest of several releases that we hold in our cellar. 

This is a blend of four different clones planted on the Wayfarer property, Berlenbach Old Wente, Dijon 95, Hyde and Mount Eden.

This wine was aged in barrel for 15 months, and bottled unfined and unfiltered.

Winemaker’s Vintage Notes - “2018 was marked by a long and temperate growing season that allowed for a calm harvest. The Chardonnay vines began to emerge on March 29th in block 12. Overall rainfall was 35% below our average, with only 37.5 inches. However, a large portion of this rain came in April, just after budbreak and long before bloom. With this spring rain filling the soil profile, the vines were able to thrive in moderate weather through May, where daily high temperatures averaged 65 degrees. Chardonnay bloom occurred in the final days of May. Temperatures remained moderate throughout the summer with no major heat waves. It was an ideal, lengthy ripening season, coaxing complex aromas and texture from our Chardonnay, while maintaining bright acidity. Chardonnay harvest began in bock 6 on September 17th and concluded with block 29 on September 29th”.

Producer’s Tasting Notes - “The 2018 vintage is the first to include our newest Chardonnay blocks – 2 acres grafted from Pinot Noir to Chardonnay in 2016. A bouquet of orange blossom, jasmine, toasted almonds and lemon zest prepares the palate for beautiful acid and wet stone. This fresh structure is enveloped in a rich texture that balances the linear focus of the wine.”

From the Wayfarer Estate Vineyard  in the Fort Ross-Seaview appellation, it was barrel fermentedand spent 16 months in oak, about 70% new.

This release was awarded 98 points by Erin Brooks, Wine Advocate, 96 points Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com, 95 points by Jeb Dunnuck, and 94 points by Kim Marcus, Wine Spectator. 

This release was awarded 98 points by Erin Brooks, Wine Advocate, 96 points Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com, 95 points by Jeb Dunnuck, and 94 points by Kim Marcus, Wine Spectator.

Golden straw colored, medium to full-bodied, complex, concentrated, powerful, bright vibrant rich layers of baked apple, pear and melon with hints toast, nuts and brioche flavors, crisp integrated acidity, and a long unctuous lingering finish

RM 95 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3556369

https://www.wayfarervineyard.com/

https://twitter.com/WayfarerWine @WayfarerWine

Domaine Serene Willamette Valley Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir 2013

One of our perennial favorites although if you read this blog you'll know we don't do a lot of Pinot Noir compared to other varietals. 

Linda and I discovered this wine at a memorable outing during one of our get-away weekends to Chicago,  at Smith & Wollensky sitting outside overlooking the river for a summer afternoon wine, salad and cheese interlude. 

Domaine Serene produce at least three ultra premium priced Pinots above this one, none of which have I tasted. I look forward to doing so at some point as I love this wine. I am not a fan, however of their lower priced entry level offerings including Yamhill Cuvee. 

I've often written how elusive is a low priced high QPR Pinot Noir. Over the years we’ve liked this and kept multiple vintages of it in our cellar. We liked it a lot more when it was available for $59, as it has escalated to $95 in recent years. 

Winemaker Notes - “A true illustration of the art of blending, the 2013 Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir is a wonderfully complex elegant wine with intriguing notes of black cherry, currants, cloves and nutmeg. With some air, notes of allspice, cardamom and black tea emerge from the glass with a subtle lift of cocoa powder and vanilla. In the mouth, the wine shows elegance and finesse with brooding depth and concentration, vibrant red fruits, silky tannins and great persistence.”

The 2013 Pinot Noir Evanstad Reserve is raised in barrel for 16 months using 57% new oak.

This release was rated 92 points by Wine Enthusiast and by James Suckling, 91points by Wine Spectator, and 90 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate.

Ruby colored medium to full bodied, pleasant sipping, soft bramble raspberry fruits with dusty rose, black tea, spice, earth and hints of pepper, mocha and mushroom on a silky tannin bright acidic finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2045514

http://www.domaineserene.com/

http://suzettescreperie.com/