Golf Wine Golf Wine Golf

Father’s Day Weekend Getaway -  Golf Wine Golf Wine Golf

For Father’s Day, my three son’s took me away for a golf weekend at Geneva National Golf Club in Lake Geneva, Wisconsin. We stayed in the cottages on the course as part of their Stay-and-Play program and had three fabulous days of golf, great food and spectacular wines. 

Over the three days, we played each of the three Geneva National championship courses designed by three  legendary players, Arnold Palmer, Gary Player and Lee Trevino. 

Friday night the boys prepared prime 30 day aged grilled beef and bison ribeye beefsteaks, mashed potatoes and broccolini, mushrooms and fabulous grilled foie gras. 

Before dinner we had a medley of artisan cheeses, Brie, aged Goudas and Dragon’s Breath pepper cheese. 

From our home cellars we took several outstanding wines for our dinner. 

Hall Vineyards ‘Exzellenz’ Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

One of our absolute favorite labels from one of our favorite producers. We’ve written about both in these earlier blogposts - 

Pour Boys Holiday Wine Dinner 2023

Exzellenz and aged Robert Craig Mt Veeder for holiday celebration gathering

Château Léoville Poyferré St Julien Bordeaux 2008

Another one of our favorite labels from one of our favorite appellations in Bordeaux. This 100 points wine from a spectacular vintage. A Visit to Château Léoville Poyferré was a highlight of our trip to the Medoc region of Bordeaux. 

Schweizer Vineyard ‘Mira’ Napa Valley Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon 

Another outstanding label we’ve enjoyed on previous occasions as featured in these pages -  

Oak Restaurant Charleston

Old and New big reds for family celebration party

Diamond Creek ‘Gravelly Meadow’ Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1985

Son’s birthyear vintage release of a classic iconic Napa producer that we’ve visited and a label we;ve collected, once again, as featured previously in these pages - 

Diamond Mountain Cabernet Duo

Diamond Creek Gravelly Meadow Duo

Hill Family Vineyards Napa Valley Atlas Peak Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

A favorite producer and label of son Alec’s, collected as part of his club allocations, again, that we’ve enjoyed and featured in these pages -

Napa Valley Atlas Peak Cabernet duo

Gala Family Birthday Celebration features fun novelty namesake wine

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?4093954 

https://hillfamilyestate.com/product/2023-napa-valley-cabernet-sauvignon 

A birthyear vintage wine for son Ryan … 

Smith Woodhouse Late Bottled Vintage Port 1982 

Smith Woodhouse is a historic port wine producer based in the Douro Valley region of Portugal. Founded in 1784, the winery is known for its high-quality vintage ports, which are made from grapes grown on steep terraced vineyards overlooking the Douro River.

Their Late Bottled Vintage ports are from a single year. The wine ages 4-6 years in old oak casks (opposed to Vintage Ports that are aged 2-3 years). Late Bottled Vintage releases fill the gap between the rubies and the vintage ports since a Ruby Port should be drunk quite young and a great Vintage Port may need 15 to 20 years to open up and show their true character and potential. This led to the idea in the 1960s to age the wine 4 to 6 years in large casks before bottling it, thereby producing a wine with the style of a Vintage Port with its deep colour and concentration of fruit but with a more mature character caused by the longer ageing in wood.

This is a selection of some of the finest quality wine of a single year, bottled, like Vintage Port, without fining or filtration, but after four years rather than two years in the wood. The extra wood age softens the wine and leads to an accelerated ageing in bottle. The result is akin to fully mature Vintage Port in flavour and complexity. Smith Woodhouse is one of the very few Port shippers to continue making LBV in the traditional way and to market the wine only after it has been bottle aged. These Ports tend to deliver high QPR - Quality Price Ratios - exceptional value for money.

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/152446

Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey Sauterne Bordeaux 2002

Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey is a Premier Grand Cru Classé from the Sauternes appellation of Bordeaux,  and is among the most prestigious names of the iconic sweet wine appellation located south of the Bordeaux region. Dating back to to the 17th century the historic château estate 100 acres on Sauternes’ highest terrace around the villages of Bommes, Preignac and Fargues. 

The vineyards terroir of silica-gravel and clayey-gravel over limestone, give the grapes concentration and finesse. 

The 2002 Sauternes is a blend crafted mainly from Sémillon with small amounts of Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle (roughly 90–95% Sémillon, remainder Sauvignon/Muscadelle). The grapes are sorted and collected by hand in several successive passes to carefully select the botrytised berries. Fermentation and élevage are aged in oak for 12–18 months. 

Winemakers notes - Expect honeyed apricot, marmalade, orange peel, toasted almond and marmite of exotic spice.

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/26588

Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey 

Saturday night, we dined at one of the resort restaurants and drank from the winelist a premium white and popular red with our entrees. 

Quintessa ‘Illumination’ Napa/Sonoma Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2023

Our visit to the Quintessa estate winery and vineyards on Silverado Trail in Rutherford, Napa Valley was a highlight of our Napa Wine Experience back in 2003. 

This is a blend of 60% Napa and 40% Sonoma Valley fruit. 

Justin Iscosceles Paso Robles Red Blend 2019

This popular premium red blend from this producer is 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc and 7% Merlot, ideal for pairing with food.  

https://www.destinationgn.com/stay-play

Return to Cellar Wine Bistro, Lafayette

Return to Cellar Wine Bistro, Lafayette

For the second time in as many weeks, we found ourselves in Lafayette (IN). Unfortunately, it was for another Celebration of Life of a recently departed dear friend of wife Linda, from her hometown. 

Following the gathering, we went back to the Cellar Wine Bistro in downtown Lafayette, which we enjoyed so much on our previous recent visit - featured in this blogpost - Kosta Browne Chardonnay at The Cellar Wine Bistro Lafayette.

Tonight, we had the pleasure of meeting the owner, Michelle, whose love of wine and hospitality was the impetus for opening the establishment. She personally manages the wine program. It was a pleasure meeting her and showing our support for the business, and learning more about her background, and wine country insights and experiences. 

 

We ordered the plate of olives, the bread plate of house-made Focaccia & whipped berry flavored butter …

And the Baked Brie with Tart black cherry, sage and crostini … 

And the Roasted Asparagus with whipped ricotta, jammy egg, parmesan, wtih lemon-dijon vinaigrette …

Invariably, when visiting a wine centered venue, I will customarily ask the server if they have any wines that are not on the winelist. Typically, there are, given the challenges and dynamics of keeping an extensive wine list up to date. So it was, tonight, that there were several recent acquisitions that had not been updated on the published list.

We selected a unique appellation varietal combination, never experienced before, a Tuscan Chardonnay, from a top reputable producer, whose wine we have enjoyed in the past. 

Isole e Olena Collezione Privata Chardonnay 2022

We discovered and enjoyed Isole e Olena wine at a spectacular wine and dinner outing at Bruna’s Ristorante in Chicago’s Little Italy as featured in this post - Wine & Dinner at Bruna’s in Chicago’s Little Italy.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2025/10/wine-dinner-at-brunas-in-chicagos.html 

Having enjoyed that label from this producer, I was eager to try another wine from their portfolio, especially a unique varietal and appellation offering such as this. 

This unique limited release Tuscan Chardonnay is from the historic Chianti Classico estate Isole e Olena. Founded in 1956 by Francesco De Marchi, Isole e Olena is located in the western part of the Chianti Classico denomination, near the village of Castellina in Chianti, in the commune of Barberina Val d’Elsa.

The De Marchi family were originally from the north of Piedmont, between Val D’Aosta and the Italian side of Switzerland, where they had very small vineyards which were abandoned after World War Two. 

The Isole e Olena estate was bought by Francesco De Marche, Paolo’s father in 1956. It consisted of two abandoned hamlets, Isole and Olena, and the surrounding vineyards. 

Francesco’s son, Paolo De Marchi, took over the estate in 1975. De Marchi was born in Turin and studied agricultural sciences, viticulture, and winemaking at the university there, and as soon as he graduated and finished his training, he moved to the estate in Tuscany, and was responsible for Isole e Olena until its eventual sale in 2022. 

When he arrived in Tuscany in the mid-1970s, the Chianti appellation required “a huge number” of white grapes in the blend. The appellation rules changed in 1984, greatly reducing the requirement for white grapes in the Chianti blend which dramatically improved the wines. From his second harvest, Pablo  tagged the best Sangiovese vines, through what was known as “massal selection” based upon how the grapes perform in the vineyard, and transitioned to making a 100% Sangiovese wine from these better-quality vines.

In 1980, De Marchi started bottling this wine under the name Cepparello, named for the little creek which runs dry most of the season through the estate, a Sangiovese from old vines, aged in barrique. At the time, pure Sangiovese wines could not legally be called Chianti Classico. This wine eventually became the flagship signature wine of Isole e Olena and one of the first Super Tuscan wines. 

After ten years of working with these tagging and tracking the wines, in 1987, he planted a vineyard grafted from the best vines to concentrate in one vineyard, vines of the same age with the same rootstocks.

In the end, the vine selections were registered by a nursery and ultimately many new vineyards in the Chianti Classico DOCG were planted with vine selections from Isole e Olena, becoming a standard bearer of quality for the area. 

When De Marchi was considering retirement, there were no direct family members to take over the estate. De Marchi’s son Luca was already running the original family estate Proprietà Sperino in Lessona.

In 2022, De Marchi sold the estate to the French luxury group EPI, whose portfolio includes Champagne houses Rare and Charles Heidsieck as well as Biondi Santi in Montalcino. 

De Marchi remained as CEO through the transition to new estate director Emanuele Reolon who was appointed to continue the vision of Paolo De Marchi’s legacy of quality and excellence in viticulture and winemaking in a faithful expression of the domaine’s terroir.

The Isole e Olena estate covers 138 acres of vineyards, sitting at 1,148 – 1,476 feet above sea level on soils of galestro and marly schist. 

This Tuscan Chardonnay release was rated 95 points by Jame Suckling and Robert Parker, 94 points by Wilfred Wong of Wine.com and 92 points by Wine Spectator.

My thoughts were the same as expressed by Wilfred Wong of Wine.com, who wrote, “ I admit it, I rarely think of Tuscany as a place to satisfy my Chardonnay cravings. The remarkable 2022 Isole e Olena Collezione Privata took me by surprise. At first sniff, I thought, "Hmm, pretty interesting!" As I continue to savor it, I realize how significant this experience was going to be.”

Winemaker Notes - “Light greenish gold in color, the Chardonnay is aromatic on the nose, with spicy, buttery perfumes. On the palate it balances ripe fruit, fresh bread crust from the oven, with a hint of spice from the oak aging and a long, slightly citrus finish.”

Pale golden, greenish straw colored, medium bodied, polished, balanced and somewhat elegant with subdued poached pear , peach and citrus notes on a layer of cinnamon spice, hints of stone fruits, vanilla, toasty oak and butterscotch, integrated acidity, a zesty acidic grip on the long persistent finish.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?4966621

https://cellar422wines.com/

Preview Night Dinner at The Belmont Naperville

Preview (Pre-opening) Night Dinner at The Belmont American Steakhouse Naperville

Anticipating the upcoming opening of The Belmont American Steakhouse in Naperville, we dined preview night leading up to their grand opening this coming week. This is the latest creation of Dave Miller of the Elements dining in the Indigo Hotel, Naperville, The George American Tavern, and Empire Grill, and partner and Executive Chef Zac Rogers. 

We’ve featured the tony, cozy George in these earlier blogposts -  

The George American Tavern, Naperville
The George Tavern Naperville Replay

The Belmont is a classic American steak house reimagined in the former Catch-35 restaurant on Washington Street downtown Naperville. They source prime beef steaks from several sources depending on the cut of meat and prevailing market conditions. They age the beef from 60 to 90 additional days in their own meat cabinet adjacent the main dining room. 

There is a fabulous Wine Room dining room for special gatherings. 

I refrain from showing interior pictures of the bar and dining room as there is a substantial dramatic bar surround overhang not yet installed. 

They also offer several fresh seafood selections based on what was flown in from US and World markets - lobster, Argentine Branzino, Black cod, salmon, crab cake, shrimp and scallops. And, same for the oysters which are fresh, flown in from best available markets - west coast and east coast! 

Pork chops, lamb, chicken and short rib and a couple pasta dishes round out the entree selections along with a caviar service of American Ossetra Caviar.

A highlight, the preparation and presentation of the wedge salad, ideal for sharing. 

The crab cake with chili pepper remoulade … 

A half dozen oysters, east coast Long Island, and California west coast. 

The petit filet … 

The New York strip with Seared Foie Torchon …

There is a range of salads and sides available for sharing as well as enhancements including lobster tail, seared Foie Torchon, Shaved Truffle and accoutrement finish sauces. Each of the usual suspect sides was creative and artfully prepared - puree de pomme with pimento, wild mushrooms, grilled asparagus, charred carrots, Mac-n-cheese, and an interesting take on creamed corn with ‘corn brulee’, almost akin to a dessert!

A selection of the sides, Puree’de Pomme, Wild mushrooms and the Corn Brulee. 

There is a carefully selected wine list of standard labels as well as an extensive Reserve List of ultra-premium selections. Many of our favorite producers are represented: Robert Craig, Plumpjack, Joseph Phelps, Randy Dunn, Kosta Browne, Quintessa, La Jota and a selection of super premium labels such ans Dominus, Hundred Acre and Schafer Hillside Select, and more. 

There is also a selection of some of the most highly acclaimed and sought after cult wines such as Colgin, and Screaming Eagle.  Aside the cult labels, the wine list read like our wine cellar inventory with many of our favorites!  

Having not seen the winelist beforehand, I spent close to an hour trolling our cellar for a special wine accompaniment for our dinner, seeking an ideal label for the grilled beefsteaks, and one not available on their winelist. I was seeking a label in the Goldilocks zone … enough age to having fully integrated and settled, but still within its prime drinking window. I also sought a label we acquired with fellow Pour Boy diner, Dr Dan. In the end, I opted for a vintage label of a favorite producer/label which proved an ideal choice. 

Amazingly, when I saw the winelist, vast majority of selections were producer labels I considered bringing BYOB! 

Dan and I both brought BYOB bottles tonight that were 98+ point rated selections, from prime vintages, and at twelve and fourteen years, in their prime drinking windows, perfect selections for pairing with our dinner. 

Hall 1873 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

From one of our favorite producers of highly acclaimed Napa Cabernets, this label commemorates the founding year of their historic Napa Valley vineyard.

Hall has become one of the premiere Napa Valley producers of ultra-premium Cabernets. We’ve visited the magnificent Hall Rutherford estate vineyards and winery several times as featured in these blogposts = 

Hall Rutherford Winery Estate Appellation Tasting, and 

Exzellenz and aged Robert Craig Mt Veeder for holiday celebration gathering.

Hall produce a broad portfolio of highly acclaimed wines and we acquired this label as part of our wine club allocations back on release. 

This label commemorates the founding of the first winery on the historic property back in 1873 when Captain William Peterson came to Napa and established a pioneering winery on their St. Helena property. Throughout the 1930’s and 40’s, the site grew to become Napa’s most important winery, producing nearly 40% of its entire vintage. 

The fruit for this Hall “”Eighteen Seventy-Three” hails from the mountain slopes that frame Napa Valley along the northern edge of the Vacca Mountains towards Atlas Peak. 

It was rated 98 points by Wilford Wong of Wine.com, and 95 points by Wine Enthusiast. 

100% Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker Notes - “Brooding and earth-driven, this wine opens with dominant aromas of crushed rocks, ripe blackberries, and wild blueberries. The weighty palate is structured by fine, powerful, tightly-wound tannins and balanced acidity. Integrated French Oak aromatics of toasted coconut, cinnamon and clove carry through the lengthy finish.” 

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, round forward concentrated bright expressive vibrant rich ripe blackberry and black raspberry fruits with notes of creme de cassis, anise, sweet tobacco, sweet oak and dark mocha with full tannins on the huge finish. 

RM 94 points

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/2602610

https://www.hallwines.com/

Dominus Estate Napa Valley Red Blend 2012

Dan brought from his Dominus vertical collection this 100 point rated 2012 vintage. Protocol suggests one doesn’t take a BYOB label that is available on the winelist. While they had Dominus on the winelist, it was a recent release, not an twelve year aged vintage, from a 100 point rated release! 

Dominus Estate is the Napa Valley product from legendary Christian Moueix of Bordeaux Chateau Petrus fame. This is from one of the region’s oldest vineyard sites. Dominus sits on a rocky alluvial fan, a gentle benchland slope nestled into the western hills of Yountville.

It was rated 100 pointss by Vinous, 99 points by Jeb Dunnuck and the Wine Independant, 98 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, Decanter and James Suckling, 95 points and Editor's Choice from Wine Enthusiast, and Wilford Wong, and 94 points from Wine & Spirits and Wine Spectator.

Like many 100 points wines, perfection is discernable not so much by any memorable or highlighted flavor sprites or profile, but rather the lack of any faults, and the straight forward elegance, polish and balance of the blend. 

Vinous in their ‘perfect’ rating wrote, “Dominus is very clearly one of the wines of the year. I loved the 2012 from barrel, but found it quite closed after bottling. Now, after all these years, I finally see the realization of the potential suggested in my barrel tastings. Magnificent.” 

In his 99 point review Jeb Dunnuck wrote, “The 2012 Dominus is a sensational wine that certainly ranks with the all-time greats of this cuvée and is reminiscent of the 1991”, describing it as “Ripe, flamboyant, and incredibly sexy, it nevertheless shows the classic style of this estate, has nothing out of place and just glides across the palate. It's a tour de force in Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and one of the greats. 99+“

Decanter wrote, “if you have any 2012 in your cellar, try it today and try it again in 5, 10, and 15 years.” Similar to Robert Parker’s note that this is “built to go on for 25-30 years.”

Wilfred Wong of Wine.com said it is one of the winery's best efforts to date. 

This Bordeaux varietal blend was 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot, and 2% Cabernet Franc.

Winemaker Notes - “The Dominus 2012 exemplifies the finest qualities of Cabernet Sauvignon from an ideal vintage. The intriguing nose offers a depth of aromas including lavender, Asian spices and cedar. Soft, supple tannins buoy layers of dark earth and cocoa. The wine is racy yet refined with a long elegant finish.”

Dark garnet colored, medium to full-bodied, elegant, silky smooth and polished, pure seamless black raspberry and black currant fruits with notes of rose petal, cassis, graphite, violets, tobacco leaf and anise, hints of mocha and hazelnut with round soft fine tannins on a soft velvety finish.

RM 96 points. 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/1794476

https://www.dominusestate.com/

We then had to try the Belmont signature chocolate cake, prepared by legendary local DeEtta’s Bakery, delicious paired with tawny ports.  

Check out The Belmont in Naperville, while you can, before it is discovered and becomes a difficult reservation to obtain! 

Tomahawk Ribeye and Vintage Wines for Celebration dinner

Tomahawk Ribeye and Vintage wines for Celebration dinner 

We hosted son Sean and d-in-law Michelle and family for a mini-celebration dinner for a recent business and career milestone that will be announced soon. I pulled from the cellar a birthyear vintage bottle for both his and Michelle’s birthyears - two big reds to accompany the grilled tomahawk ribeye beefsteak. 

Linda also prepared sweet corn, roasted potatoes, a medley of mixed vegetables, and Sean prepared baby artichokes. 

Dunn Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1985 

If you’re acquiring wines to commemorate a special vintage year for a future date, such as a birthyear, you select a producer with a track record for producing long lived wines, and select wine from a region that had a good harvest of quality fruit suitable for producing long-lived wines. 

Hence we hold a collection of such wines from Randy Dunn, the legendary, independent Napa Valley winemaker known for pioneering producing powerfull structured, age-worthy Cabernet Sauvignons. His 1985 Cabernet Sauvignon has shown longevity, maintaining incredible freshness and structure even four decades after harvest.

Randy Dunn helped shape the modern identity of Napa Valley. After studying enology at UC Davis, Dunn became the first head winemaker at Caymus Vineyards in 1975 where Caymus launched its legendary ultra-premium Special Selection Cabernet.

In 1978, Dunn and his wife Lori bought property atop Howell Mountain where he was instrumental in getting established the Howell Mountain AVA, which in 1983 became Napa’s first official sub-appellation.

While modern Napa moved toward micro-sorted, plush, high-alcohol wines, Dunn maintained his traditional style, crushing fruit with bits of stems intact for raw structure, and aging wines no less than thirty months in oak, crafting balanced, elegant, lower alcohol wines designed for the dinner table.

Dunn Vineyard’s Howell Mountain property is planted with 24 acres of Cabernet vines aging between 10-37 years.

We’ve written about Randy Dunn and select wines before in these blogposts -  

Dunn Vineyards and Caymus #40 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons, 

Dunn Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1999

We visited the Dunn Vineyards estate up at Angwin on Howell Mountain during our Napa Valley Howell Mountain Wine Experience back in 2008. We were hosted by Kristina Dunn that day but we had the privilege to meet winemaker, producer, patriarch and Napa Valley pioneer Randy Dunn. 

While not one of the larger holdings in our cellar in terms of number of bottles, it may be one of our broadest holdings in terms of number of vintages in our vertical collection of this label, and the flagship premium label Dunn Howell Mtn Cab.  We also collect Randy Dunn's "Feather" label that he produces for the Long Shadows Vintners Collection Series in Washington State. 

Our Cellartracker records indicate we have a vertical collection of several mixed cases of each label from almost two dozen vintages dating back to 1981. 

Selections from Vertical Collection of Dunn Napa Valley Cabernets

With Randy Dunn at Dunn estate high atop Howell Mountain.

Dunn is known for age-worthy long-lived Napa Cabernets, especially the premium Howell Mountain label.  Robert Parker tasted both Dunn labels at ten years of age in 1996 and wrote: "Two of the most impressive wines in these tastings, both of Dunn's 1986s tasted like 3-4-year old Cabernets rather than 10-year old adolescents.... Rich, pure, and youthful, this 1986 is accessible now, but will unquestionably last another 20+ years." That would bring this wine to 2016 and here we are five years later. 

Dunn Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1985 

Back in the 1980’s this vintage release was rated 94 points and “Top 100 Wines of 1988” by Wine Spectator, and 93 points by John Gillman as late as 2021.

Amazingly, at 40 years of age this 1985 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon is still holding its own showing some but little sign of diminution from age. The fill level, foil, label and most importantly the cork, were all in good, acceptable condition. 

The bottle still has the pricetag sticker on the bottle showing $54.95, which would've been the purchase price back on release in the late 1980's. 

In his 2021 review of this label, John Gilman wrote, “I last drank the 1985 Napa cabernet from Randy Dunn back in early 2018 and felt it was starting to turn the corner. However, at one of our most recent tastings, it was back in its tannic suit and tie and demanding to be left alone in a cool corner of the cellar for another ten-plus years.’ 

“The potential here remains exceptional, but I was hoping to see even a bit more softening of the tannins, rather than a still closed and cantankerously-structured wine!” 

“The bouquet is excellent, wafting from the glass in a complex blend of cassis, sweet dark berries, stony soil tones, cigar smoke, incipient notes of petroleum jelly, pretty spice tones, a touch of road tar and cedary oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and still pretty clenched in its tannic chassis, with a lovely core, excellent soil signature and grip, firm, chewy tannins and a long, nascently complex and still very promising finish. Was my last bottle more forward, or is this bottle from a particularly cool cellar? I am not sure, but this most recent bottle needs still more time in the cellar before it starts to drink with generosity. Someday, it should be a terrific bottle of wine! (JG) 93+” 

Wine Spectator wrote of this release - “Intense and concentrated, packed with ripe cassis, cherry and currant flavors that are rich and elegant. The acidity and tannins are crisp and juicy, offering great potential for the cellar.” 

This was dark garnet colored, medium bodied, tangy dark blackberry and black raspberry fruits holding on, accented by notes of tobacco, spice, leather, hint of graphite, espresso and cassis with nicely integrated tannins on a round lingering finish. 

RM 90 points. 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/18231

http://www.dunnvineyards.com/

@dunn_vineyards  

Marston Cellars Napa Valley St Helena Petit Syrah 1984 

This is the last bottle from the 1984 vintage that we hold in our cellar, since it was not a collectable year, nor a birthyear of note at that time. I wrote about this label back in 2018 in this blogpost which I repeat excerpts here. 

My notes from an earlier review of this wine back in 2004 on this label's vintage twentieth anniversary.

"Dec 31 - Marston (Family) Vineyard Napa Valley Petit Syrah 1984 (Bottle 790 of 812) - RM 90 - Today, 'Family' is part of the name and the winery provides cabernet fruit for Beringer Private Reserve. Not many 20 year olds down in the cellar (since the 84 Bordeaux's are long gone being a short lived vintage) but pulled this one out on the last day of 04... Surprising body, structure and backbone with inky purple colour. Intense currant, black cherry, cedar anise and plum with a firm tight long full finish. Amazing staying power and life left - thankfully I have at least one more ... 2014?

From the Marston (Family) Vineyard website - Over the last 25 years, the Marston Vineyard has produced numerous award winning wines.Andre Tchelistcheff helped craft small quantities of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, and Zinfandel in the early 1980’s. Sean Thackery produced legindary Petite Sirahs from the Marston Vineyard in the early 1990’s winning Best Red Wine in the world. For the last decade Beringer has been responsible for the vineyard. Cabernet Sauvignon from Marston Vineyard is in the Beringer Private reserve Cabernet. Marston Vineyard designated Cabernet is also made by Beringer. The year 1998 marked the beginning of a new era for Marston Family Vineyard. The first Marston Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon was made by one of our favorite and noted winemakers, Philippe Melka."

We missed pulling this wine in its thirtieth anniversary year, 2014, but here we

are four years later. At thirty-four this is still holding its own showing surprising vibrancy and resilience and no signs of diminution from age. And my earlier notes indicating we still held a bottle missed the fact we were holding two. Hence, after drinking this one, we still hold one more. As shown on the rear label of this wine, released from library in 1998, it was built for long term cellaring. It is standing up to that objective indeed!

According to the Marston Family website today regarding their wines, each vintage will remain “forever limited” to 600 cases and is produced from selected blocks on the property. According to the handwritten serial numbers on these bottles, exactly 812 bottles were produced of this wine.

Marston Family Vineyards dates back to Michael and Alexandra Marston purchasing the property back in 1969 as part of a consortium. then acquiring the remaining ownership in 1976. Back in 1969, many of the original vineyards dating back to the turn of the century were still in production.

Over the next four decades, Marston Family Vineyardhad a line of legendary winemakers who produced numerous award winning wines. In the early 1980’s, Philip Togni and the late Andre Tchelistcheff crafted small quantities of Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Rhone (this Petite Sirah) and Zinfandel.
This vintage was among the vintages from 1982 – 1986 that were overseen by legendary André Tchelistcheff, who was considered America’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker, and was notable for his contributions toward defining the style of California’s best wines, especially Cabernet Sauvignon. Called the “Dean of American winemakers”, industry giants such as Robert Mondavi and Louis Martini considered him their mentor.

Noted winemaker Sean Thackery produced legendary Petite Sirahs from the Marston Vineyard under his Sirius label through the early 1990’s including winning “Best Red Wine in the World” with the 1992 (some records say 93) vintage.

Noted winemaker Philippe Melka and his team managed the property and winemaking for a dozen vintages up until 2010. During this time they began replanting certain blocks of the vineyard, and in 1998 released the first vintage under the current label. 

The release of the 2010 vintage marked the first release of current winemaker, Marbue Marke who continues to this day.

Marston Family Vineyards sit on the most southern slopes of Spring Mountain on the western slopes of Napa Valley above the town of St Helena. The original vineyards date back to the late 1800s and over the years were planted with as many as eleven different varietals, including Johannesburg Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, and Cabernet Sauvignon. This 1984 vintage of the Marston Petite Sirah was sourced from a small 3-acre plot on the property where some of those first plantings were done back as early as 1890.

As noted, this was our last remaining bottle.

Previous owner Al Menasco became a pioneer in developing new vineyard practices. He experimented with different types of vineyard spacing and planted a dozen varieties of grapes in different soil types and micro climates on the property. He kept meticulous records to discover the optimum growing conditions for these varietals.

Over the years, the family whittled the vineyard’s focus from eleven varietals to one, and the Pettit Sirah vines, like the others were replaced with Cabernet Sauvignon which is the sole focus of property today.Today the vineyards comprise about 10 percent of the 500 acres of heavily forested land on terraced hillsides that range in elevation from 700 to 1,100 feet just above the fogline resulting in extended hours of sunlight. The additional sunshine coupled with the lower temperatures allow the fruit to ripen more slowly and uniformly, which ultimately enhances the wine’s concentration, complexity and texture. Furthermore, the rocky, mountain soils limit the vigor of the vines contributing to their fruit's richness and concentration.

We have one remaining bottle of this 1984 vintage release. Based on its storied history and amazing stamina and longevity, we'll look forward to a suitable and appropriate occasion to open it - clearly an OTBN candidate in the next few years! 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=389018

http://www.marstonfamilyvineyard.com/