Seattle Wine and Dine - Washington State Wines Tasting in Woodinville

Seattle Wine and Dine - Washington State Wines Tasting in Woodinville

We traveled to Seattle for a multipurpose trip including exploring the Seattle Culinary scene and to visit the Washington wine (tasting) area of Woodinville. We had several superb dinners and then ventured to the wine country where we targeted a select group of producers that we know to produce or that were recommended to us for their premium high quality labels. All in all it was a spectacular trip having several outstanding culinary dinners including extraordinary wine and food pairings. 

Washington State wines are coming of their own achieving new heights in quality and recognition. The number of  Washington wineries has increased 400% in the last decade and has grown proportionally as a tourism industry. It is the nation's second largest wine producer. Interestingly, the area is geographically located on approximately the same latitude (46ºN) as some of the great French wine regions of Bordeaux and Burgundy. Washington State wine growing areas are now officially recognized in 14 federally recognized American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), also commonly known as appellations.  The vineyards producing wine grapes in the fourteen different appellations lie in the Columbia Valley river basin that cuts through the center of the state from North to South and then turns west separating Oregon from Washington as it heads to the Pacific.

American Viticultural Areas, or AVAs, are geographical wine grape growing regions in the United States. Their boundaries are defined by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) and established at the request of wineries or other petitioners. Washington State currently has 14 AVAs.

Since the vineyards and their producer wineries are several hours from any population centers, producers have created a wine tasting mecca in the Seattle outer suburb of Woodinville, north and east of the city. Several dozen producers have tasting rooms in freestanding venues and in several commercial centers that in any other locale across the country could be mistaken for neighborhood strip malls or regional outlet malls.

According to the Willows Lodge website, where they promote their wine tasting and tour weekend packages, there are 115 wineries or tasting rooms representing every Washington State appellation in the Woodinville Wine Country. 


Wineries visited and wines tasted:

Den Hoed Andreas Walula Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
Fidelitas Winery

Guardian Winery

Long Shadows Wine Cellars

Mark Ryan Winery, Tasting Room, Woodinville

Chateau St Michelle, Woodinville

Fine dining restaurants where we dined during the trip:

Canlis Restaurant, Seattle

Barking Frog Restaurant at the Willows Lodge in Woodinville

RN74 Restaurant in Seattle

 

Guardian Cellars Tasting Visit Woodinville

Guardian Cellars Tasting Visit Woodinville 

Another stop in our Woodinville wine tasting tour as part of our Seattle Culinary and Washington Wine Tour was a visit to Guardian Cellars. This was another as yet undiscovered producer that was suggested as a worthwhile stop in the area. While perhaps not at the level of the premium Long Shadows selections, or the Fidelitas or Mark Ryan premium labels, Guardium produces some very respectable quality wines that represent high QPR - Quality Price Ratio selections. 

Unlike many of the Woodinville winery tasting rooms that are sited in strip malls or commercial centers resembling an outlet mall, Guardian is housed in their own freestanding building in a quaint yellow cottage/home with a wrap around porch, ideal for casual wine sipping.

The Guardian story is interesting and storybook. Founder Jerry Reiner was a Seattle law enforcement officer and amateur winemaker on the side. After graduating from Univerity of Washington with a degree in organic chemistry, and the police academy, he worked as a volunteer apprentice at Woodinville wineries - Mathews Cellars, Mark Ryan and Baer, assisting friends with harvest or in the tasting rooms. 

Jerry met Jennifer shortly after she started working as a reporter for the Seattle Times newspaper. After a courtship, Jerry the cop and Jennifer the reporter got married. Four years after Jerry's graduation, they started Guardian Cellars producing a Bordeaux-style blend, a Cabernet and a Syrah. Upon opening the Guardian Cellars tasting room in November 2007, all of their 350 cases were gone by the end of the day. When the 2005 vintage was released months later, their entire production was gone in just a few days.

Today, Jerry, protege Joel, and the Guardian team produce 16 different wines under the Guardian label and a second label, Newsprint. This year's production exceeded 10,000 cases. While he is still a cop, he continues to make wine as head winemaker. Like Jerry, Jennifer also still has her “day job" as a reporter for KOMO (ABC) TV. When not working, or tending to their two daughters, Josephine and Jillian, she works in winery promotions, and hospitality where she can often be found pouring wine in the tasting room on the weekends

Fruit for Guardian wines is sourced from leading vineyards in Central Washington Columbia Valley - from sandy soils of Conner Lee Vineyard, in the Columbia Valley; west to the petrified tree fossils lining the soil in StoneTree Vineyard, in the Wahluke Slope; and southeast to the loam soils of Red Mountain.

 As I have written in these pages pertaining to several of the Washington State, Woodinville producers, many of their wines are crafted from fruit sourced from major vineyards. The wines are distinguished by the handicraft of the winemakers in the making of and blending of the wines. A few have Estate vineyards while many source their grapes from the same vineyards year after year under long term contracts. 

The Conner Lee Vineyard is in the Columbia Valley AVA near Othello, Washingon, and dates back more than 35 years to the early 1980's, the early days of Washington wine grape production. Conner Lee is planted in in Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Malbec, Merlot, Syrah and Viognier grape varietals. These grapes are used in the Guardian flagship Bordeaux blend label  'Gun Metal', since the very start of the winery.

The 250 acre StoneTree Vineyard in the Wahluke Slope AVA was planted in 2000. The name of the vineyard is derived from the petrified tree fossils found in the surrounding hills. The vineyard is located on a rolling sloping hillside northwest of Mattawa, Washington, surrounded on one side by the Columbia River and on the other by the Saddle Mountains. Guardian considers StoneTree as their 'go-to' vineyard as a primary source for their fruit.

The Klipsun Vineyard in the Red Mountain AVA lies on the southwest slope of Red Mountain, and is considered the source of some of Washington’s finest grapes. Klipsun was named one of the Top 25 Vineyards in the World by Wine & Spirits magazine, Klipsun primarily grows Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Nebbiolo. The 120-acre estate was founded in 1982 by Patricia and David Gelles and was acquired by the Terlato Wine Group of Chicago in early 2017.

The Obelisco Vineyard, planted in 2006 in the Red Mountain AVA, produces classic Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot for several of Washington's top premium producers. 

The Quintessence Vineyard, also in Red Mountain, while a newer vineyard, is also a well known source for several top producers and well known labels. Guardian works closely with the Quintessence vineyard team to grow the perfect grapes according to their plans and expectations. Guardian has a long term arrangement to source 22 acres of Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot from blocks planted in 2011. These blocks are known for fruit-driven dusty-red tannin characteristic so common in the best Red Mountain fruit.

Guardian wines are labeled with whimsical names befitting the marriage of a policeman and a beat reporter, with a sense of humor, producing wines together, Confidential Informant, Chalk Line, Rookie and Alibi.

The wines we tasted:

• Angel Sauvignon Blanc 2017
• Newsprint Chardonnay 2016
• Chalk Line Washington State Red Wine 2016
• Gun Metal Washington State Red Wine 2016
• Alibi Red Mountain Red Wine 2016
• The Rookie Red Mountain Red Wine 2016 
• Confidential Source Columbia Valley Red 2016
• Newsprint Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
• Newsprint Columbia Valley Cabernet Franc 2016 

We tasted and acquired several of these wines to bring home and look forward to returning for more and will keep a keen eye out for these labels to appear here in the Midwest in distribution.

https://www.guardiancellars.com/

Canlis Restaurant Seattle Extraordinary Wine Dine Experience

Canlis Restaurant Seattle for Extraordinary Wine Dine Experience

One of the highlights of our Seattle Culinary and Washington Wine Tour was our dinner at Canlis Restaurant in North Seattle in the Queen Anne district overlooking upper Lake Union. Our son Ryan was also in Seattle at the same time and he arranged our dinner at Canlis.

Canlis is a family owned and operated restaurant run by second generation Mark Canlis, his wife Anne Marie, and brother Brian. Growing up  in a restaurant family, he joined Canlis in 2003, after graduating from Cornell University and serving as a Captain in Air Force Special Operations. He and Anne Marie met while opening famed restaurateur Danny Meyer’s fifth restaurant, Blue Smoke, in Manhattan. Mark returning to Seattle to take over the family business that is Canlis. He and Anne Marie reside on Queen Anne with their three children. More on our visit and study of the historic district and its Prairie Style and other architecture to come.

Speaking of architecture, Canlis is as much about the atmosphere and the experience as it is the food, wine and service. The restaurant is an architectural landmark in a special setting with a special view overlooking upper Lake Union. Its a masterpiece and there's not a bad seat in the house.

The Canlis website tells the story this way: "This is the story of building a restaurant from scratch, in a location “way outside of town” for a city that would “never appreciate fine dining.” It is the story of our great grandparents risking everything, our grandparents doing the same, and then watching our mom and dad do it again. It is a legacy rich with tradition, but not like you might think. Here, we’ve made a habit of breaking our own traditions for the sake of someone else’s. Canlis is something more: the recognition that the story that matters most is your own."

So, how fitting it was that our Canlis dinner was a mini family affair as wife Linda and son Ryan
joined me at this legendary family restaurant. Moreover, a subplot to the story, our niece Anna Long, married last fall into the Van Hoed family, farmers, wine growers, viticulturists and winemakers from the famed Walula Vineyards in the

Canlis Lake Union night view

Columbia River wine region. One of our goals for the week was to taste Den Hoed wine, which conveniently was available on the Canlis winelist. Our bottle of Andreas, the Den Hoed flagship was a highlight of our Canlis dining experience, and our Washington Wine experience.

Speaking of the Canlis winelist, it has had a twenty-one consecutive Wine Spectator Magazine Grand Awards dating back to 1997, only one of a handful in the world to be so honored for that length of time. During that time, Canlis has helped train four Master Sommeliers and nine advanced sommeliers, an extraordinary achievement. They have also collaborated to produce wines with world renowned producers Alois Kracher, Buty, Jean Milan, Hirsch, and Guiborat & Fils.

The Canlis menu offers a choice of hour course selections in a price fixe format.

Our opening wine selection

We started with the Canlis Salad, a signature dish featuring great grandmother’s recipe, with bacon, mint, and lemon.

My second course was the Haiga Rice, simmered in a brown butter dashi with dungeness crab, preserved strawberries, and hazelnuts. This was delicious. Ryan had the the Soured Corn Strascinati with burnt wheat, basil, and goat cheese. Linda had the Salmon, glazed in caramelized onion juice and grilled with fava beans and gari (shown below).

For the third and 'main' course, Linda had the Smoked Carrots with onion jam, beans, and celeriac. Ryan and I had the Ribeye Cote De Boeuf with spring onions with a sauce of grilled brassicas and preserved berry vinegar. This was a perfect complement to the Cayuse and the Den Hoed.

For the finale we had a selection of the offerings:

Soufflè with orange Curaçao, crème anglaise, and warm madeleines
Après Soleil - Apple galette, mustard, and caramelized onion,
and the highlight of the three,
Blueberry Mille Feuille, Lemon curd ice cream, vanilla custard, and bee pollen

For our wine flight accompanying dinner we chose the following:

Bruno Paillard Champagne Rose' Premiere Cuvee
Cayuse Vineyards Walla Walla En Chamberlin Vineyard Syrah 2011
Den Hoed Andreas Wallula Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

Den Hoed Andreas Wallula Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

Named for the patriarch founder, Andreas Den Hoed married Marie Den Hoed in 1956 and they planted their first vineyard on their property that year. After two years in the Army Andreas returned to the farm. In the early years, they paid the bills growing mint. He continued to plant more vineyards as resources allowed expanding acreage almost every year. In 1988, their two of his sons Bill and Andy joined the business as partners in a new project, with acreage planted to vineyards. Their sister is the mother-in-law of our niece Anna.

Interesting, Anna is a Long, not to be confused with the Long Shadows wines affiliated with the Den Hoed grape growing and wine making collaboration. Both she and her husband Nick are offspring grandfather's who were farmers and have uncles who continue to tend the family land.

The father and sons team continued to expand in the Yakima Valley for the next 5-6 years. After several years of searching, in 1997, they purchased a 550 acre parcel of land bordering the Columbia River in the Wallula Gap. Since then the vineyard has earned a reputation as one of the finest in the region. It is sited in a picturesque growing location nestled high above the mighty Columbia River south of of the town of Kennewick. The wines produced from this vineyard have proven to stand the test of time and can stand up and hold their own against the best wines of the new world. The 100% Cabernet Sauvignon Andreas became the namesake and flagship wine of Andreas Den Hoed.

The 2012 vintage of Den Hoed was crafted by winemaker Gilles Nicault of legendary Long Shadows. We visited the Long Shadows tasting room and report on that in a parrallel blogspot.

Being our first tasting experience of Den Hoed wine, and being priced below the median on the extensive Canlis winelist, we were dubious yet had high expectations. The Andreas met our most lofty hopes and expectations and was a highlight of our extraordinary meal.

This was crafted by collaborative winemaker Gilles Nicault (from Long Shadows) 168 cases were produced of the 2012 Andreas , 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 30 months in 90% new French Oak. 

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, it was rich concentrated intense, yet nicely balanced, smooth polished and elegant, bright vibrant sweet ripe dark berry fruits with prunes accented by a layer of sweet mocha chocolate and notes of graphite, dusty leather, herbs and sweet oak on a long silky sinewy tannin laced finish.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2328243

The Den Hoed grower's description of the Wulula Vineyard and what makes it special. "Considered by some to be the best vineyard site in Washington state, Wallula Vineyard is a picturesque growing location nestled high above the mighty Columbia River south of Kennewick. The vineyard is planted on south-facing slopes which vary from 2% up to 30% grade and its perimeter totals 9 miles of varied terrain.  Of this perimeter, the shore of the Columbia River provides nearly 3.5 miles of waterfront. From the river's edge at 320 feet above sea level, the property climbs a distance of nearly 3.5 miles to its peak elevation of 1367 feet. The lower elevations of the property provide ideal growing conditions for ultra-premium reds while conditions at the upper elevations allow for high quality whites to be grown. The river is of utmost importance as the water acts as a massive insulator where during the day heat accumulates quickly and at night it provides a cooling effect once the sun goes down."

We look forward to acquiring more Den Hoed wines and visiting the property in the Columbia Valley. 

http://www.denhoedwines.com/

https://canlis.com/

Our plates:

 Haiga Rice, simmered in a brown butter dashi with dungeness crab

 Salmon, glazed in caramelized onion juice and grilled with fava beans and gari

 Ribeye Cote De Boeuf with spring onions with a sauce of grilled brassicas

Blueberry Mille Feuille, Lemon curd ice cream, vanilla custard, and bee pollen

 Après Soleil - Apple galette, mustard, and caramelized onion

Canlis nightview to northeast ...

More to come ... 

RN74 Chef's Tasting Dinner and Wine Pairing

RN74 Chef's Tasting Dinner and Wine Pairing

We visited Seattle for a Seattle Culinary and Washington Wine Tour. On our first night, we dined at RN74 Modern French Bistro where we chose the five course pric fixe Chef's Tasting Menu with Wine Pairings. RN74 offers two wine pairing flights, a premier flight and a premium 'grande' selection. We chose both so we could sample two flights of wines against the food courses.

RN74 -Wine - No-Wine

RN74 Seattle features global interpretations of American and French cuisine with an extensive wine list highlighting the Burgundy region of France, along with boutique wine producers from Washington and Oregon. Locally-sourced, seasonal highlights include house-aged steaks, vegetables from local organic farms and pristine Puget Sound seafood.

RN74 offers an impressive extraordinary 89 page wine list that is wide and deep with international selections from all major regions.  The list offered a broad selection of Washington and Oregon wines but was equally impressive in Bordeaux, Burgundy, California and beyond. There's also a extraordinary selection of half bottles and large format bottles. The Burgundy selection was the most extensive I've ever seen with the widest selection from each appellation, many top producers and a deep vertical collection across vintages.

RN74 Somm Table - tending to each selection

RN74 is one of thirty restaurants run by San Francisco-based Mina Group, a restaurant management company specializing in creating and operating upscale, innovative restaurant concepts, led by Founder and award-winning Chef Michael Mina, operating since 2003. Mina Group restaurants are in many major metros and destination cities from California to Florida and WDC including Chicago, Scottsdale, Boston, Hawaii and internationally in Dubai.

Renowned Chef Michael Mina sets the standards for creative food dishes and service delivery for an extraordinary culinary experience. I admit I have never heard of the group or their restaurants but was sufficiently impressed that I'll seek them out with every opportunity. 

For our wine pairings, I believe the differential between the premium and the more expensive grande selections were negligible. In fact for the first three courses, we preferred the more modest selection. Only with the last flight was the Sauterne a resounding upgrade from the second wine. All but the most discriminating might be well served to follow the more economical route. Of course, best is to try both and compare!

The Chef;s Tasting Menu with wine pairings:

RN74 Chef’s Tasting Menu

Chilled English Pea Veloute – Crispy Leeks, jamon de coppa, wild mushroom crème fraiche

Hiedler, Gruner Veltliner Loess, Kamptal, AT 2015
Domaine Pinson, Chardonnay, Chablis, Burgundy, FR 2016

                

Heirloom Tomato Salad – Crenshaw melon, French feta, watermelon gelee, grapefruit, basil

               Chateau Gassier, Grenache Blend Rose’, Cote du Provence, FR 2017
               Beckham Estate, Olivia’s Pinot Noir Rose’, Chehalem Mountains, OR 2017

Sweet Corn Agnolotti – smoked duck breast, puffed forbidden rice, parmesan-porcini brood

               Clusel Roch, Gamay, ‘Traboules’, Coteaux du Lyonais, Rhone, FR 2016
               Domaine de la Cote, Pinot Noir, ‘Estate’, Sta. Rita Hills, CA 2014

Grilled NY Strip – Japanese eggplant, smoked cauliflower, foraged mushrooms, cherry gelee

               WT Vintners, Syrah, ‘Destiny Ridge’, Horse Heaven Hills, WA 2015
               Domaine Lombard, Syrah, Brezeme, Northern Rhone Valley, FR 2014

Coconut Panna Cotta – Farmers market fruit, mango gelee’, raspberry sorbet

               Renardat-Fache, Cerdon de Bugey, Savoie, FR, 2016
               Chateau Roumieu-Lacoste, Sauternes, Bordeaux, FR 2015

              

 

 Our courses:

 

 Chilled English Pea Veloute – Crispy Leeks, jamon de coppa, wild mushroom crème fraiche

 

Heirloom Tomato Salad – Crenshaw melon, French feta, watermelon gelee, grapefruit, basil

           

Sweet Corn Agnolotti – smoked duck breast, puffed forbidden rice, parmesan-porcini brood

 

Grilled NY Strip – Japanese eggplant, smoked cauliflower, foraged mushrooms, cherry gelee

 

Coconut Panna Cotta – Farmers market fruit, mango gelee’, raspberry sorbet

Are those all mine?
Somm table upper right