Gruaud Larose BYOB at Entourage DG

Gruaud Larose BYOB at Entourage DG

Returning from our Destin (FL) vacation home, we dined at our newest favorite go-to eatery, Entourage in nearby Downers Grove (IL). Planning to select their fabulous meat loaf or beef stroganoff entree, I took BYOB from our cellar this vintage aged premium Bordeaux Blend. 

I ordered what has become one of my favorite dishes, Wagyu Meatloaf Sundae - Truffle + Parmesan Whipped Potatoes, Brioche, Wild Mushroom Gravy,  Vegetable Succotash topped with Crispy Onions.

A mini horizontal tasting of sorts, following two other similar wines from this same vintage, I selected another 2005 vintage release of a premium label from the same appellation, region. 

I wrote about the other two labels in these two recent blogposts - Clos du Marquis with beef stroganoff, and Sociando Mallet with grilled beefsteak.

Like the Clos du Marquis, this is also from the St Julien appellation, the Gruaud Larose estate sitting less than three kilometers (1.6 miles) away. 

And as we did with Leoville Las Cases, we also visited the Gruaud Larose estate during our visit to the area in 2019, as featured in my blogpost at the time - A Visit to Château Gruaud-Larose St Julie Beychevelle Bordeaux. 

It was one of the key visits on our trip to the St Julien Appellation (AOC) in Bordeaux was Château Gruaud-Larose, a 2ème Cru Classé or 'second growth', one of fifteen Deuxièmes Crus (Second Growths) as classified in the original Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855.

During our spectacular week in St Julien, we visited Léoville du Marquis de Las Cases, producers of the recently tasted Clos du Marquis featured in these pages, Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, and Léoville-Poyferré, three other second growth St Julien producers, and Fourth Growth  producers Château Beychevelle and Château Branaire-Ducru. As with all the others, we hold or have consumed a selection of Gruaud Larose dating back several decades to the early eighties. 

This label is one of my favorite Bordeaux and key holdings in our cellar collection consisting of more than a dozen vintages spanning three decades dating back to 1980 including the birth year vintages of each of our kids, 1981, 1982, 1985 and 1990. We hold many vintages in large format bottles including 3 liter double magnums which we served at daughter Erin's and son-in-law Johnny's wedding. 

This is a wine that demands, but then rewards holding for the long term and several years if not decades of cellaring. 

Château Gruaud Larose is one of the most historic estates in the Médoc dating back to 1725 when Abbot Gruaud bought just under 125 acres of land and planted vineyards. Since then, four families have succeeded one another at the head of Gruaud Larose: the Gruaud and Larose families, the Balguerie and Sarget families, the Cordier family and the Merlaut family.

In 1812, the property was sold to Pierre Balguerie, Baron Jean Auguste Sarget and David Verdonnet.

Shortly after the official 1855 Classification of the Medoc, control of the property was split further among their descendants, but remained intact until 1867 when it was split into Château Gruaud-Larose-Sarget (after the Baron Sarget) and Château Gruaud-Larose-Faure (after Adrien Faure, who married the heiress to a portion of the estate).

Baron Sarget constructed the château on the property in 1875. The other half of the original vineyard remained with the Bethmann descendants. The wines were bottled and sold as both Chateau Gruaud Larose Faure and Chateau Gruaud Larose-Bethmann at different times.

The two château were reunited by the Cordier family, who purchased the Sarget piece in 1917 and the Faure piece in 1935 and the château became a centerpiece of the Cordier properties along with Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey and Château Talbot.  

The Cordier family had been negotiants since 1886. They acquired the Bethmann family holding in 1935. This allowed the Cordier family to recreate the original estate and the wine was renamed Chateau Gruaud Larose.

In 1983 it was purchased by the Compagnie de Suez, and in 1993 it was sold to the French conglomerate, Alcastel Alstom. In 1997 it was sold to Jacques Merlaut who also owns a broad portfolio of Bordeaux properties including Chateau La Gurgue, Chateau Haut Bages Liberal, Chateau Citran, Chateau Ferriere and Chateau Chasse Spleen. 

The Gruaud Larose Chateau and estate sits just outside the village of St Julien-Beychevelle at the southern end of the appellation located on the plateau to the west of Château Beychevelle. on the opposite side of the D2 Route from Ducru Beaucaillou and Leoville Barton.

The vineyards of Gruaud Larose have the highest point of elevation on the Saint Julien plateau and has a distinctive 'tower' which serves visitors a vantage point to view the entire estate.

The 200 acres of vineyards are planted in the Bordeaux sanctioned varietals of Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Merlot (25%), Cabernet Franc (8%) and Petit Verdot (2%) with old vines averaging 40 years.The vineyards are adjacent to those of Chateau Talbot and Chateau Branaire Ducru which have smaller parcels. The property is divided into 110 parcels with the best terroir found in the 2 sections that surround the chateau and that adjacent to the park.

Chateau Gruaud Larose is known for wines that are concentrated, complex, full-bodied and long-lived, best consumed after several years of aging, typically at least 12 years or more, and often reach their peak maturity and optimal drinking window after 15 years and often last 35 years or more after the vintage release.

Chateau Gruaud Larose on average produces close to 18,000 cases of Saint Julien wine each year.

The wine is fermented in stainless steel vats, and aged in oak barrels for 20-22 months, renewed annually in thirds. 35% new oak.

Château Gruaud Larose St Julien Grand Cru Classé 2005  

This release was rated 98 points by Jane Anson, 95 by The Wine Independent, and 94 by Wine Enthusiast.

Pundits wrote, “You have really had to be patient for this wine, but it is utterly spellbinding, and starting to show its potential.” And, “This is one of the best wines from Gruaud-Larose for several years.”

With a similar sensation of the near perfect 100 point wine we drank recently, this is more notable for its lack of blockbuster boldness, that knocks you over with big forward fruits, or some other highlight, rather, it’s remarkable for it’s lack of excessive notes and it’s flawless, and seamless polish with it’s harmonic integration.

Medium to deep garnet-brick in color. medium to full bodied, that signature St Julien finesse, elegant, polished, finely balanced black currant, black and hints of red berry fruits with notes of herbs, dark black chocolate, cassis, black tea, truffle, hints of cedar and spice with a smooth layer of graphite and crushed rocks with firm, fine-grained tannins on a long finish. 

RM 95 points. 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/224096

https://www.gruaud-larose.com/en/

https://entouragerestaurant.com/downers-grove/

Waygu Beef and Mendoza Cab Franc at Entourage Lunch

Waygu Beef and Mendoza Cab Franc at Entourage Lunch

After watching grandson Miles play youth basketball, we diner for Saturday lunch at Entourage Restaurant DG (Downers Grove, IL), which is fast becoming our favorite local restaurant. 

With somewhat limited seating, and growing popularity, it’s becoming a tough seat for dinner so mid-afternoon is a smart time to visit Entourage for easier access seating, such as was the case today, in the dining room and at the bar. 

I ordered from the Day’s Specials menu the Waygu Beef Stroganoff. Like their Signature Waygu meatloaf entree, this could easily become my favorite go-to dish - delicious in all respects. 

PS note - we dined there again the following Saturday and this was no longer offered, but we were told it was hugely popular and got rave reviews, such that they were considering bringing it back, if not for an encore, perhaps as a permanent feature. 

For my Waygu Beef, I ordered from the WBTG selections this Bordeaux varietal Cabernet Franc from Argentina. 

Archaval Ferrer Mendoza Cabernet Franc 2022

This is from the prolific producer Achaval Ferrar, considered one of the finest wineries of Argentina. They have established an international reputation for Bordeaux-style reds, which include Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, and this Cabernet Franc. 

 

This is from the Mendoza province of Argentina, by far the largest and best-known winemaking province, it is responsible for over 70% of the country’s enological output. It lies in the eastern foothills of the Andes Mountains where the climate is dry and continental, which has proven ideal for viticulture. 

Mendoza, divided into several distinctive sub-regions, including Luján de Cuyo and the Uco Valley, which has emerged as the source of some of the country’s finest wines.

While Mendoza is known primarily for Malbec, the most widely grown grape varietal, but all the Bordeaux varietals are commonly grown here. The Bordelaise varietals were brought to Argentina by the French in the mid-1800s, where they found success due to the ideal climate and consistent growing seasons. Besides Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc as well as Syrah and Pinot Noir are all widely planted here. 

Cabernet Franc has found the height of Valle de Uco as an ideal place to develop fully. The great exposure to the sun and the cold mountain breeze give it harmony and structure, resulting in a wine with a wide range of aromas and flavors. It delivers herbal and spicy notes, from black fruits to the freshness of tomato leaves and rosemary, with a strong presence of peppers and menthols. 

This 100% Cabernet Franc comes from high-altitude vineyards in Tupungato, which offer excellent sun exposure and cool mountain breezes. These attributes allow the grapes to ripen under ideal conditions. 

This was aged for 13 months in new French oak barrels.

It was awarded 91 Points, Wine Enthusiast and 90 points by James Suckling  

This was a nice complement to the Waygu Beef and mushrooms and a nice value, available BTG - By The Glass. 

Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, rich, dense, savory ripe black berry fruits with accents of tobacco leaf, cassis and spices with approachable moderate tannins on the finish.

RM 90 points. 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/4940241

https://entouragerestaurant.com/downers-grove/

James Restaurant "Cab is King" Wine Dinner w/ Bell Wine Cellars Wines

 The James Restaurant "Cab is King" Wine Dinner featuring Bell Wine Cellars Napa Valley Cabernets

We attended the "Cab is King" Wine Dinner with Bell Wine Cellars at The James Restaurant in nearby Geneva (IL). The evening featured a carefully curated multi-course menu prepared by The James Executive Chef, Steven Blackburn, and his culinary team. Each course was thoughtfully paired with a wine from Napa Valley Bell Wine Cellars crafted to enhance the unique characteristics of the food and the wines, creating a harmonious symphony of flavors.

We were joined by fellow Pour Boy Lyle and Terry who came out from the city (Chicago) to attend the event. 

We learned of the event during our lunch at The James last month which we featured in these pages - The James Geneva features wine friendly menu and fine wines.

The dinner was held in the fabulous Sun Porch dining room which provided an elegant picturesque setting for the memorable evening. 

The wine flight featured an extraordinary selection of Bell Wine Cellars' finest limited production and allocated wines. 

Bell Wine Cellars is an ultra-premium Yountville (Napa Valley) winery known for small-lot, single clone, Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as other Bordeaux varietals, Chardonnay and Syrah. They produce several limited production Single-Clone appellation (AVA - American Viticultural area) specific designated Cabernet Sauvignons from leading vineyard sources across Napa Valley. 

Tonight's flight featured four of the Bell Wine Cellars' Napa Valley Cabernets, three Cabernet Sauvignons, a Cabernet Franc and a sparkling white Blanc de Noir from Sonoma County. 

A small independent winery was founded by winemaker Anthony Bell; he recently retired and the Bell Wine Cellars estate and winery in Yountville were taken over and are owned today by the Berberian and Spanos Families.

Visiting from California presenting the wines was Bell Wine Cellars Director of Sales, Hillary Cole, who guided the tasting flight, sharing insights and stories about the wines and their unique characteristics.

Hillary's journey as a Wine Master follows an incredible career as a military linguist and counter-terrorism analyst. Her work travel in national security intelligence took her to Europe where she had the opportunity to visit vineyards in the finest wine growing regions where she was drawn to the serenity and romance of the settings, such a stark contrast to her work. 

Following her government service she earned her MBA and immersed herself in Sommelier studies. She worked her way to become General Manager and Sommelier for three Sacramento-area restaurant groups running the wine program at Ella Dining Room and Bar in Sacramento. 

Hillary completed several wine certification programs, her favorites included French Wine Scholar, Champagne Master Level, Napa Valley Wine Expert, and The Business of Wine. She continues her studies of the French language and is currently a Bordeaux Master candidate. Building on her background in business, wine, and leadership afforded her the position as Director of Sales at Bell Wine Cellars.

Hillary represents the new Bell Wine Cellars team that was brought in by the new owners, the Berberian and Spanos Families.

The Berberian Family were prominent wine and spirits wholesalers for five decades in California and Nevada, and then, owners of the Bank of Agriculture and Commerce, launched in 1965 in Stockton, California. Ron Berberian grew the bank to 11 branches, serving San Joaquin and Contra Costa Counties.  The Berberians’ longstanding knowledge and expertise of quality wines eventually brought them to Napa Valley where Ron and Dea are dedicated to enhancing the experience of visiting Bell Wines and offering the best quality award-winning wines.

The Spanos Family, today most known as owners of the NFL Los Angeles Chargers, were notable in real estate development and construction, and equally known for their philanthropy to education, health, and youth initiatives. Native to Northern California over several generations, Napa Valley and the wine industry always held their interest and admiration with their affiliation with Bell Wine Cellars dating to 2002.

Bell Wine Cellars team with several leading notable growers to source grapes from some of the premiere vineyards that represent the varied appellations of Napa Valley. 

The Bell Wines served tonight were crafted by founder and winemaker Anthony Bell who has since recently retired. Going forward this will be overseen by Winemaker and General Manager John Hazak. A native of southern California, John earned a Master of Science degree in Viticulture and Enology from the University of California, Davis before working in the Cotes-de-Nuits, Burgundy.  Returning from France in 2005, John honed his skills as Assistant Winemaker at Provenance Vineyards under seasoned winemaker Tom Rinaldi, then at Sterling Vineyards as an Associate Winemaker, heading their production of all white wines and Reserve red wine tier. 

He returned to Provenance Vineyards in 2015 to direct production of Provenance and Hewitt wines where he modernized Provenance into a small-lot, luxury Cabernet house, then doing the same at Beaulieu Vineyards in 2017.

John joined Bell Wine Cellars in February of 2020.  His previous experiences paved the way to Bell, where he hopes to continue Bell's vision of craft winemaking and constant improvement, while starting a new chapter with this team. 

"At Bell Wine Cellars, above and beyond is second nature. We encapsulate these efforts as Napa’s most prolific researcher and producer of Single-Clone Cabernet Sauvignon, a labor of equal parts love and diligence to express Cabernet Sauvignon as its own purest ingredient." John Hazak,Winemaker & GM.

The dinner menu featured five courses each thoughtfully paired with a Bell Cellars wine. I write often in these pages about the importance and impact of optimally pairing food and wine, accentuating and amplifying the enjoyment of both. 

The James Executive Chef, Steven Blackburn presented each course and discussed its preparation followed by Bell Cellars Director Hillary Cole who presented the accompanying wine, its composition, source and characteristics in applying it to the course.

The 'Welcome Starter' was a Fried Brioche Munchkin - fresh baked brioche bread injected with Manchego cheese custard, served with Bell Wine Cellars Blanc de Noir Brut Sonoma County NV sparkling wine.

This elegant sparkling wine is made from two of the three traditional grapes used in the Champagne region of France: Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. The Pinot Noir (83%) hails from Carneros region, which straddles the southern region of Napa and Sonoma Valleys. The Pinot Meunier (17%) comes from the coastal area of Sonoma.  This traditional Champagne is a blend of the different grapes from different growing conditions, building complexity into the wine, produced in the classic méthode champenoise tradionelle. (Of course, only wine produced in the Champagne region of northern France can legally be called Champagne. Those produced elsewhere are relegated to the moniker 'sparkling wine'.)

This traditional Champagne production method entails adding a dosage of sugar, yeast, and wine to start the second fermentation in the bottle, followed by time-consuming hand riddling to separate the yeast following fermentation. The traditional method creates small, tight, delicate bubbles and an added complexity to the wine. 

 

This non-vintage Blanc de Noirs sparkling wine was disgorged in December of 2021 with the grapes grown primarily in the 2018 growing season.  

Producer's Tasting Notes - "Fresh and lovely as an aperitif to start any dining experience or perfect on its own, this sparkling wine pairs with everything, no matter what or when the occasion. Noting a very faintly salmon-tinged pink color, very fine bubbles and a gentle mousse, the wine opens with a fresh and lively nose of light strawberry and the scents one might find in a bakery early in the morning. The palate is delicate and refined, with toasted almond and unsweetened marzipan characterizing the entry. The beautiful but balanced acidity from these cool growing regions supports merengue, marshmallow and the strawberry flavors into the finish, livening up your taste buds for food. Our Brut is finished in the dry style. The Pinot Noir adds texture, body and strawberry aromas to the blend. The Pinot Meunier  contributes finesse, elegance, freshness and floral hints to the blend."

The first course was Oak Braised Short Rib - charcoal roasted carrot with dry aged beef fat powder, confit cipollini onion, sage demi glas and watercress.

 

Paired with this course was Bell Wine Cellars Napa Valley Rutherford Appellation Cabernet Sauvignon 2018. 

 

Wine for this label was sourced mostly from the legendary Beckstoffer Rutherford AVA Vineyard, and the remainder from the equally iconic BV Ranch #3 vineyard originally planted and tended to by legends George de Latour and André Tchelistcheff of Beaulieu Vineyards in the early part of the 20th century, this historic vineyard carved out of the original Rancho Caymus land grant.

 

We discussed the BV Ranch vineyards in these pages just last week when we tasted and wrote about their BV Tapestry with beef bourgogne.

The well drained gravely, loam sedimentary soils formed from after volcanic rock provide a moderate stress to the vines, limiting yield and increasing qualitative potential. The region is influenced by the Valley’s layer of morning fog and afternoon breeze, creating a long growing season which allows tannins to fully ripen and create the signature dusty texture that the appellation is known for, “The Rutherford Dust”.

It was also one of the first vineyards involved in the development and commercial planting of the different clones of Cabernet Sauvignon.

It was aged 20 months in 100% French Oak, 20% new. Slightly more than 9000 cases were produced.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3892416

The Second Course was Grilled Swordfish served in a delicious black plum reduction sauce with fresh plums, crispy haystack parsnips and fall spice radicchio.

 

This was paired with Bell Wine Cellars Napa Valley Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2018.

 

This is sourced from the Neal Vineyard in the Howell Mountain AVA of northeast Napa Valley sited on a ridge almost overlooking the Napa Valley floor. The vineyard is owned and farmed by Mark Neal, son of Jack Neal, one of the original farmers of modern Napa Valley winegrowing.  

 

The volcanic soils of the Vaca Mountain range including Howell Mountain at the north end of the range, stress the grapevines, being thin and well-drained, but it is this specific combination of qualities that lend this mountain Cabernet its structure.  A slightly western-facing aspect allows the warm afternoon sun to push the fruit to an ideally ripe state in time for harvest. The result is a classic expression of the Howell Mountain terroir with full firm structured, concentrated dark saturated fruit with classic spice for an approachable Cabernet Sauvignon.  

 

This wine is 99% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 1% Merlot added for softness and complexity, and was aged in 27% new French oak and mostly once-used oak barrels for 20 months with minimal racking. The wine received about ten months of bottle aging prior to release.

 

Winemaker's Tasting Notes - "Our inaugural appellation blend from Howell Mountain is a dark garnet color in your glass. It beckons with a multi-layered nose of blackberry cobbler, sweet tobacco, new leather and sage. The flavors echo the aromas with dark plum, dry persimmon, hints of cinnamon and a fine worn-in wood expression. The texture is broad and lush, with a creamy mouthfeel that integrates dusty tannins and a bright acidity. We are proud to share our first appellation blend from one of the premier locations for Cabernet Sauvignon in the Napa Valley." 

Only 440 cases were produced. 

 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3965389

 

The Third Course was Waygu Flatiron Steak with petite Yukon crisps, garlic aioli and fried rosemary in a beef jus reduction. This course was the highlight of the evening for me. 

 

 
This course was paired with Bell Wine Cellars Atlas Peak Napa Vally Cabernet Sauvignon 2018.

 

This label is sourced from the Elan Vineyard located on the Eastern slopes of Atlas Peak at south end of the Vaca Mountain range that forms the east boundary wall of Napa Valley. It sits at an elevation of 2100 ft above sea level in the upper reaches of the range.

The vineyard is part of the Elan Estate owned by winemaker Patrick Elliot Smith who developed of the site building on his more than 40 years of experience in vineyard development and management. Patrick and his wife Linda purchased the property in 1979 and Patrick started clearing the very rocky land himself, while living in a tepee, and he continues to do most of the manual work himself. 

We visited Patrick and Linda Elliott Smith and tasted and acquired their Elan Winery and Vineyard wines during our Napa Wine Experience back in 1998, when they were crushing their grape and producing their wines at Monticello Winery in Southern Napa Valley. We still hold a half dozen vintages in a vertical collection of Elan Wine which we've featured in these pages - Napa Valley Atlas Peak Cabernet duo.

This was my WOTN - Wine of The Night - the most expressive, finely balanced and integrated for the most elegant and polished representation of the Bell Cabernets.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4304422 

The Fourth and final course was Chocolate French Silk Pie - dark chocolate mousse, white chocolate mousse, dark cocoa nibs and brown butter crust. 

This course was paired with the Bell Wine Cellars Napa Valley Oak Knoll AVA Cabernet Franc 2019.

This wine is sourced from the Chang Vineyard which is situated along the Silverado Trail on the southeast side of the Napa Valley, noted for a great stone wall along the back property line. 

The sub-appellation Oak Knoll AVA is distinguished by a cooler microclimate, second only to the Carneros AVA. The vineyard was planted on rocky but porous loam-chalky soils rich with volcanic rock. Although the temperature is cooler than upper valley, the east side aspect provides sufficient sun exposure for this early ripening variety. The winemaker notes that wines produced from this vineyard are characterized by raspberry and violet flavors as well as dark fruit and great tannin structure thanks to proper maturity and vigor restrain of the soil.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4821368

This was the WOTN - favorite wine of wife Linda and several others in our group.

We enjoyed the Bell wines such that we and our guests acquired each of the Cabernets featured this evening for our cellar collections. 

The opportunity to compare each of the appellation wines in one sitting was very special, indeed, especially when optimally paired with extraordinary food.

https://www.bellwine.com/

https://thejamesgeneva.com/

https://twitter.com/unwindwine

@unwindwine 

https://twitter.com/PassionatePour1

@PassionatePour1

Spectacular Anniversary Celebration St Regis Miru Chicago

Spectacular Memorable Anniversary Celebration St Regis Miru Chicago

For our wedding anniversary we spent a spectacular night in our beloved Chicago doing many of our favorite destinations' activities. 

We stayed at the new St Regis Hotel in the magnificent new Jean Gang designed tower, the second tallest building in Chicago - home of the skyscraper and city of tall buildings. (Officially, the equally magnificent Trump Tower (shown in background up the river) is second tallest when you take into account the tall spire atop the tower, which is considered inclusive in determining the building height.)

The St Regis Tower was designed by architect Jean Gane and extends the street wall of Upper Wacker Drive on the south bank of the Chicago River. It is a $1 billion, 1.9 million-square-foot condo-hotel with 393 condos and 192 hotel rooms. 

Originally known as the Vista Tower until St Regis took over as lead tenant and thereby acquiring the naming rights, it is now the tallest building in the world designed by a woman. It sits on the same block as the Gang designed picturesque 82-story Aqua Tower, whose wavy concrete balconies were inspired by the layered topography of limestone outcroppings along the Great Lakes, which used to hold that title. 

The unique intricate St Regis/Vista tower design consists of three towers of 48, 72, and 101 stories with staggered undulating 12-story pyramids, alternating right side up and upside down.

There is a lower 11 story tower to the east and the central tower front has an 11 story cube abutting the front, suspended two floors above street level linking Upper Wacker Drive to the north with East Waterside Drive and the Lake Shore East Park to the south.

The eastern section and cube tower section house the hotel and provide the rooftop terraces of Miru Restaurant, and the lounge and meeting venue hospitality areas, above the pool and spa.

Another new hotel restaurant, not yet completed, is the only interior designed by Studio Gang, it will have ceilings up to 38½ feet high and views uptown, downtown, and along the river.

Our deluxe executive hotel room was the nicest non-suite room we've ever experienced (which is saying something considering I've spent over four thousand hotel room nights during my many years of travel over four decades!) The hospitality and service provided by Erika Portocarrero, Butler Coordinator, Mark at the Concierge desk and the rest of staff was exceptional!

We dined at the St Regis Miru Restaurant, sited on the 11th floor of the tower with an outdoor terrace overlooking the Chicago River, the River North citi-scape, and Navy Pier and Lake Michigan in the distance.  

The Miru Japanese French fusion cuisine & innovative desserts are prepared by Miru Chef Hisanobu Osaka (of Morimoto, Daniel) and Netflix’s School of Chocolate winner, Pastry Chef Juan Gutierrez.

The Miru extensive menu offers over sixty small plates from which we chose the following selections:

Bluefin Tuna & Crispy Shiso Sesame Vinaigrette

Chilled Torchon of Foie Gras with Rhubarb, Ichigo

Lobster Spring Roll Thai Orange Sauce

Waygu Beef Center Cut Beef Filet

followed, of course, by deserts .....

Calamansi Crème Brûlée - Madagascar Vanilla Bean Crème Brûlée, and a very unique

Black Sesame Mochi - Charcoal Vanilla Ice Cream with Black Sesame Praline and Mochi Sponge 

Every course was spectacular - delicious, imaginatively prepared and presented, and the service was outstanding in every respect. We look forward to returning and dining when we have more time to explore the cuisine in more depth, without the tight schedule of a theatre reservation.

For our wine selections we had the Cremant d'Alsace Camille Braun Miru Special Selection Champagne, French Burgundy Pinot Noir followed by Yamahi Junmai Genshu "Ancient Treasure" Niigata (Sake). 

Cremant d'Alsace Camille Braun, "MIRU Spécial Sélection", NV

This is from the Braun family whose presence in Alsace dates back to 1583. Since then, generations of farmers and wine growers have followed one another. The Braun family estate was established in Orschwihr in 1902, with the purchase of a 17th Century farmhouse. 

The Brown estate is located in south-central part of Alsace, midway between Colmar and Mulhouse, where Orschwihr has been known for quality wines since the middle ages. 

Camille Braun took over the family farm in 1960 and began to focus exclusively on wine production and selling his own production in bottle. Beginning with six acres, the domaine has now grown to 17 acres of vineyards in and around Orschwihr and Uffholtz. Camille’s son Christophe took over the family business in 1987 and today runs the domaine with his wife, Chantal . 

Roughly 90% of the domaine’s production is sold directly to private customers leaving very little available for sale beyond western Europe. Crémant sales havae been surging in France in reent years and are beginning to do so in the U.S however quantities imported to the US Market are limited.

Wine Enthusiast gave this label release 92 points and writes: "A very subtle nose is promising with its hints of ripe red apple, gentle shortbread and lemon zest. The palate presents that very same harmonious and fresh picture, enhanced by the finest fizzing creaminess of the mousse and the integrated yeastiness that can only stem from sufficient time on lees. This is a paradigm of balance and understated elegance." - Anne Krebiehl MW, Nov 2018

Jacques Girardin, "Maladière", Santenay ler Cru, Pinot Noir 2019

The Girardin family has been in Burgundy since 1570 where today, Domaine Jacques Girardin is a family affair with a winemaking heritage that stretches back to the beginning of the 19th Century, Jacques (brother of Vincent) now runs the 142 acre family domaine together with his wife, Valérie, and son Justin. 

The entire Girardin family are renowned winemakers, including Jacques’ father Jean, and his brother Vincent. Jacques has been producing wine from his own domaine since 1978. Valérie & Jacques (12th generation) & their son Justin (13th generation) manage the 42 acre domaine which goes from Santenay to Savigny les Beaune, passing through Chassagne Montachet and Pommard.

The estate, located in Santenay, produces three Premier Cru red wines in Santenay, Clos Rousseau, Les Maladières and Clos Beauregard, Savigny-lès-Beaune Premier Cru “Les Peuillets,” as well as Pommard Village and Bourgogne Pinot Noir. 

They also produce a Santenay Blanc, Bourgogne Blanc, and a small amount of Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Morgeot.” 

The name Maladière comes from the nearby Maladière of Chagny hospital. This is a sunny, warm site, its wines typically spicier, with darker berries. It is a south-east facing vineyard, with deeper soils, located in the centre of the appellation. 

Maladière is a very common name for hamlets in Burgundy. It comes from maladrerie, hospitals that date back to medieval times. 

La Maladière of Santenay is a parcel given by a noble to the maladrerie of Chagny, probably before the XIIIth century.

Between Santenay and Santenay le Haut is this climate halfway up the hill, exposed to the southeast with a thin soil which gets more and more clayey downhill producing wines from this climate taht are extremely fine and complex. 

The average age of the vines is 45 years, planted 100% to Pinot Noir. It was aged fifteen months in French oak barrels, Allier and Vosges, 20 % of new oak.

Winemaker Notes -  "Fresh and elegant nose with dark fruit aromas– black and red currants, blackberries, plums. Supple wine, lightly structured, fruity and fresh. Classic Pinot Noir with a touch of Burgundian earthiness in the elegant finish."

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4741415

https://www.girardin-santenay.com/english/red-burgundy/bourgogne-rouge-santenay-1er-cru-maladiere.html

With desert we had this interesting and distinctive Japanese desert Saki.

Yamahai Junmai Genshu "Ancient Treasure", 12 Year Kanbara Niigata

I know nothing about Sake and was intrigued to try this since it is offered and recommended in such a fine dining reputable establishment.

From the distributor, we learn this Kanbara label and brand is produced by the Kaetsu Brewing Company and is made in the Niigata prefecture in the Hokuriku region of Japan. 

It is considered in the Sake Junmai Category and Subcategory Yamahai, Genshu, Koshu. 

Sake classification levels are determined by the percentage the rice is milled before the brewing process. In general, the more you polish (or mill) the rice, the more aromatically expressive the sake becomes (the rice polishing rate expresses the amount remaining, so lower numbers translate to higher polishing).

Junmai is premium sake that is made only from rice, water, and koji enzymes.  Although most junmai sake meet a polishing minimum of at least 70%, there is technically no minimum polishing rate designated to this category.  Junmai sakes are often considered rustic and full bodied, with pronounced umami.

It is produced from the  Rice variety Yamadanishiki, Koshitanrei.

I asked how it acquires its colour and our server told us it from aging in plum barrels. 

This unique sake is a 12 years aged (approximately-- the brewer uses a solera system of fractional blending, think of it like a mother sauce), and is made of 99% koji rice, aged in tank. The 99% koji and low polishing of the rice (90%), plus brewing with the high-acidity yamahai method, give the sake enough sweetness, structure and acidity to stand the test of time. Why 99% koji and not 100%? Because that inclusion of 1% plain steamed rice lets it legally qualify as sake in Japan. 

Kaetsu Shuzo calls this style “jijoshu,” which is a term they invented, as it has much more acidity and glucose than most koshu but is not technically kijoshu. Dr. Sato of Kaetsu heads a society dedicated to studying the aging of sake and has been doing it longer than most (actively brewing >50 years now!)

Kaetsu's Kanbara brand (of Kanbara Junmai Ginjo Bride of the Fox) was created to make non-Niigata styles of sake (their original brand, Kirin, is much more Niigata-like). Kaetsu exports most of their Kanbara production to europe and the US.

This was interesting and delightful, somewhat akin to a more subtle tawny port or almost a sherry.

After our early dinner we attended MJ The Musical at the magnificent Nederlander Theatre. 

Back at the hotel we were treated to Champagne, French Macarons, artisan Chocolates and Cheese. 

 

This sweet meringue-based biscuit-cake made from egg white, powdered sugar and almond flour, is quintessentially French were fresh and flavorful.

 

 

Rivetti Pin La Spinetta Castagnole Monferrato with Spaghetti

Dining in, Rivetti Pin La Spinetta Castagnole Monferrato with Spaghetti

Linda prepared spaghetti with a delicious bolognese sauce with ground Waygu beef, home grown fresh tomatos, peppers and onions. I pulled from the cellar this big Italian red for an ideal accompaniment pairing. 

As I've written often in these pages, the optimal wine and food pairing will enhance the experience significantly greatly ameliorating the enjoyment of both. Tonight was such the case!

I wrote about this wine in detail in our tasting blogpost back in 2016, excerpts below:

Rivetti Pin La Spinetta Castagnole Monferrato 2005

We don't have much Italian wine in our cellar, it historically has comprised less than 1% of our collection. However, our many dining experiences at Italian Village in Chicago over the last few years has introduced me to Italian wines and I've expanded our collection. 

 

For our dinner tonight, I pulled this classic decade year old Italian red blend of which I hold a half dozen bottles. La Spinetta produce a line of premium Piedmont and Tuscan wines from traditional varietals in a new world style and flair.

This 'Pin' label is named after the nickname of Giuseppe Rivetti, the patriarch of the family and father of the current producer Giorgio, of the estate La Spinetta, which means 'top of the hill', in Castagnole Lanze in the northern Italian region of Tuscany. The family first purchased 70 hectares of Moscato and Barbera d'Asti vineyards in 1977 and have continued to expand operations through expansion and development since. 

Today, Giuseppe's children — Carlo, Bruno, Giorgio and Giovanna have since taken over the family business, with Giorgio leading, assisted by elder sister Giovanna who is in charge of vineyard production.

Rivetti produced their first red Barbera Cà di Pian in 1985. The first release of Pin occurred in 1989, a blend of 50 percent Nebbiolo, 25 percent Barbera and 25 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. which was revolutionary at that time.  

In 1985 they produced their first Barbaresco followed by Gallina in 1995 and their first Barolo Campè in 2000. In 2001, La Spinetta acquired 65 additional hectares of vineyards in Tuscany where today they produce three different 100% Sangiovese wines. 

The Rivetti brand has grown internationally and today is well known, identified by their distinctive labels featuring a burly rhinoceros, which the Rivetti siblings say signifies quality. 

Origins of the unique wildlife logo illustration come from an ancient woodcut by historic German artist, Albrecht Dürer, who prepared his drawings and woodcut from descriptions and sketches of a rhinoceros gifted to the king of Portugal from India. It was the first animal of its kind in Europe. The Rivettis lament that they fell in love with this ancient wood cut print and the legend behind it. Giorgio Rivetti expressed his great admiration of the celebrated drawing and woodcut. but has downplayed the connection between this animal and the brand. 

Also depicted on the bottles of La Spinetta’s first Barolo Campè vintage, is a pencil drawing of a lion by Dürer, since Barolo is commonly known as the king of Italian reds. The legend continues. 

Pin Castagnole, Neive, Barbaresco Monferrato Rosso DOC 2005

This is a blend of 65% Nebbiolo, and 35% Barbera d’Asti Superiore Bionzo. Barbera and Nebbiolo are the two marquee red wine grapes of northwest Italy. They are often blended together in Piedmont to create modern style wines for the international palate. Nebbiolo, the powerful majestic grape of Barolo and Barbaresco, is blended with Barbera to be more approachable and smoother and balanced, and drinkable at an earlier age. Barbera adds cherry flavors to Nebbiolo’s distinctive strawberry, and the high acidity of both ensure the wine is fresh and rarely flabby.

When we tasted this back in 2016, I wrote, "As good as this was with the pasta and peas with vodka cream sauce, it was even better the following evening with char-grilled Pittsburgh style strip steak, asparagus and baked potato." 

 

At eighteen years, the fill level, label, cork and foil were in ideal condition. At this age, this may be at its peak, the apex of its drinking window, but it certainly has another decade of life yet, but I can't imagine it will improve further from aging. 

Fortunately we bought a half dozen bottles when we acquired this back in 2010. That initial review, I rated it much lower and said "Dark purple color - Dense full bodied - ripe black fruits, with a slight edge and layer of cassis and subtle tar with a firm tannin finish. Might soften and settle with time." It certainly did benefit from another six years of aging in the bottle.  

 

Tonight's tasting was totally consistent with that last review in 2016. I'll look forward to trying the last bottle, perhaps five years from now, or beyond. I wish I had more!

This was dark blackish garnet colored, medium to full bodied, and was remarkably smooth, well balanced and polished. Bouquet and flavors are full forward complex black raspberry, black berry fruits punctuated by tones of oak, cedar, hints of earthy cassis and tar turning to silky smooth polished tannins with an elegant persistent finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=395355

http://www.la-spinetta.com/

@LaSpinettaItaly

From Cellartracker:

11/12/2016 - I like this wine: 92 Points

This was dark blackish garnet colored, medium to full bodied, and was remarkably smooth, well balanced and polished. Bouquet and flavors are full forward complex black raspberry, black berry fruits punctuated by tones of oak, cedar, hints of earthy cassis and tar turning to silky smooth polished tannins with an elegant persistent finish.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2016/11/rivetti-pin-la-spinetta-castagnole.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=395355