Showing posts with label Bordeaux. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bordeaux. Show all posts

Tuesday, March 18, 2025

Sociando Mallet with grilled beefsteak

Sociando Mallet with grilled beefsteak 

Linda prepared grilled filets of beef with sautéed spinach and baked potatoes. I pulled from the cellar for one of my favorite food and wine pairings.

There is great value in this second/third tier Cru Bourgeois from Château Sociando-Mallet located in the commune of Saint-Seurin-de-Cadourne in the Haut-Médoc on the Left Bank of Bordeaux overlooking the Gironde river Estuary.

We drove through the area of the estate, sitting just off the Gironde River, just to the north of the village of  St-Estèphe, near highly acclaimed Château Montrose during our visit to the Medoc in 2019. 

The vineyards are planted with the designated Bordeaux varietals, Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Merlot (25%), Cabernet Franc (25%) and Petit Verdot (5%).  The wines are matured in oak barriques (70-90% new) for 12-15 months. They are bottled unfined and unfiltered.

“These are weighty, firm and well-structured clarets that are typically rich in fruit and have excellent ageing potential, said producer Jean Gautreau: "I have a superb terroir which I want to express in the wine. I try to make a classic Médoc for long keeping."

Château Sociando-Mallet Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux 2005

Sociando-Mallet has been managed by Jean Gautreau and his family since 1969. Born in 1927, Jean Gautreau created his own négociant firm in 1957 serving customers in Belgium and the Netherlands.

Jean Gautreau discovered Sociando-Mallet in the village of Saint-Seurin-de-Cadourne in 1969 when looking for a wine estate to buy on behalf of a Belgian client but acquired it for himself for 250,000 French francs. 

There were only 5 hectares of vines at the time. Jean Gautreau expanded the vineyard year after year by buying vines from his neighbours. He renovated the estate’s buildings, built a barrel cellar, and gradually improved the choice of grape varieties, matching the appropriate ones to each vineyard plot.

Today, the property is comprised of 83 hectares producing nearly 450,000 bottles a year of Château Sociando-Mallet and the second wine, Demoiselle de Sociando-Mallet. Jean Gautreau sold his négociant business in 2000 to focuse solely on producing wines. 

Château Sociando-Mallet dates back to 1633. Owner Guillaume de Brochon was arrested during the French Revolution in 1793 and the estate was impounded and sold at auction to his father-in-law, Jean Lamothe.

In 1831, Marie-Elisabeth Alaret, Lamothe's niece and owner of Sociando, married Achille Mallet, adding his name to the estate, the château was thereafter known as Sociando-Mallet.

The Alaret family sold the property in 1878 to Léon Simon. Between then and the arrival of Jean Gautreau, the château belonged to the wine merchant firm of Delor, Louis Roullet (Mayor of Saint-Seurin), and then Emile Tereygeol, who also owned Pontoise-Cabarrus at that time.

Jean Gautreau passed in 2019, leaving the property to his daughter Sylvie who had been managing since 2015, and has continued following in her father’s footsteps.

This aged vintage Bordeaux is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc. 

This was a perfect pairing for our dinner, the complexity of the wine complementing the beef, and is balanced by the blend, the forward structured Cabernet Sauvignon moderated by the softer more approachable Merlot, and accented by highlights of the spice and sprites of the Cabernet Franc.

I often say, the French have been perfecting these blends for five hundred years, while we Americans for fifty years, and are now just beginning to appreciate the wisdom and experience of the French! 

At twenty years of age, this is in its ‘Goldilock’s zone’, old enough to be fully integrated to reveal its complexity, to my preference, but still young enough to show the full expression of its fruits, which Linda likes. The label, foil, and most importantly, the fill level and cork were in perfect condition. This is likely at the apex of its drinking profile and may age for another five or ten years before starting to diminish.
The 2005 vintage was considered by some as one of the top ten Bordeaux vintages in history sitting alongside 1961, 1982, 1990 & 2009.

Jeb Dunnuck wrote in 2024,  “This killer bottle of wine has another 2-3 decades of overall longevity. You should buy it if you see it and count yourself lucky if you have bottles in the cellar.”
 
This release was rated 94 points by Jeb Dunnuck and Vinous, 93 points by James Suckling and Wine Advocate.

Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, smooth, polished and balanced black berry and black currant fruits are accented by notes of earth, herbs, tobacco, cedar and subtle floral and a hint of truffle with chewy tannins and a flavorful finish. 

RM 92 points. 


Saturday, February 22, 2025

OTBN 2025 in Charleston

OTBN 2025 in Charleston

We traveled to Charleston (SC) for a getaway weekend to visit fellow Pour Boy Bill and Beth. As is customary on the last Saturday night in February, we celebrated OTBN together, an abbreviated celebration in light of the travel and unavailability of several members of our traditional Pour Boys wine group. 

OTBN 2025 was our fourteenth straight year, since 2011, that we have celebrated together and fittingly, was an abbreviated replay of our OTBN - Open That Bottle Night - 2023, which was also held in Charleston, as featured in these pages in this blogpost, excerpted below.

The last Saturday in February brings the annual OTBN wine event – Open That Bottle Night – the 24th such event since its creation in 2000 by Dorothy Gaither and John Brecher wine columnists for the Wall Street Journal. OTBN is set aside to share and compare special bottles of wine, that have been held in our cellars, waiting for the special occasion to open, that hasn’t yet come, so as to eventually succumb to the inevitable, its time, open that bottle (to)night!

So this was our fourteenth straight year, since 2011, members of our Pour Boys (TM) wine group assembled to share and compare special bottles of wine.

And so, as we’ve starting following the seasons, we congregate in the south during the winter, and the north during the other seasons. As such, we gathered again at Bill and Beth C’s in Charleston, SC for this years' gala.

OTBN 2025 as in 2023 was hosted by Bill and Beth C at their home on Seabrook Island, SC. While the 2023 Saturday night OTBN dinner was held at the Seabrook Island Clubhouse Ashley Room private dining room, tonight we dined in their home on the island. As in ‘23, several members of our group were not able to attend due to family and other commitments, this year we were joined by special friends.


After a spectacular dinner Friday night, at Oak Restaurant in Charleston, we dined in at Bill and Beth’s for Saturday night with special friends Amy and Beth visiting from Kentucky. 

Bill & Beth prepared grilled beefsteaks with twice baked potatoes and haricot verts.


For starters Beth prepared Caesar Salad and crab cakes. 


Bill pulled from his cellar a medley of Napa Valley Cabernets for the occasion. 


The wine highlight of the evening, and my absolute WOTN - Wine of the Night, was Odette Nap Valley Cabernet.

Odette Stags Leap District Napa Cabernet 2015

Bill opened this big red in a large format magnum for the ladies, but I loved it before and after dinner for enjoyable sipping, and it was just as good over the following afternoon. This big red was so opulent and fruit forward it was almost a meal in of itself with its exuberant full round plump profile! 

This is from the Odette 45-acre estate vineyards in the heart of the Stag’s Leap District appellation nestled against the foothills on the east side of Silverado Trail just north of Napa town. 

It’s too bad this label is part of the Plumpjack Group with their unfortunate affiliation with Gavin Newsom. Never-the-less, despite the distractions and mis-directions, they produce some fabulous wines. 

This release was crafted by Odette winemaker Andrew Haugen.

A native from Southern California, he studied biology at Cal Poly in the Central California wine region around San Luis Obispo. There, he also took the available wine classes. Pursing his interest in wine, he gained experience at Stonestreet in Sonoma County for his inaugural 2012 harvest, then at Church Road Winery in New Zealand, Howard Park in Australia, and Gran Moraine in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, before joining Odette Estate Winery in 2015.

From that time he progressed from cellar master to enologist to assistant winemaker and eventually head winemaker for the Odette and their Adaptation labels. He works closely with long-time Vineyard Manager Oscar Renteria at Oso Vineyard, and a 129-acre site located in Pope Valley.

This Odette 2015 is a blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, and the rest 3% Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot.

4,000 cases were produced of this release. 

Winemaker’s notes for this release - “Opaque, dark ruby color introduces this wine that expresses dark fruit aroma and flavors. With spicy sweet oak complexity, the wine exudes dark fruit such as blackberry, black currant, blueberry and dark cherry. There are nuances of dark chocolate, chocolate berry truffle dusted with cocoa powder, cola, aromatic cedar, cinnamon, clove, graham crackers and a hint of tobacco. The body is very full with a soft entry, coupled with dark cherry/berry flavors that develop from start to finish. With great texture and mouth feel, this cabernet is full bodied, rich and opulent.”

This release was awarded 96 points by Jeb Dunnuck and Wine Advocate, 95 and ‘Top 100 Wines of 2018, Highly Recommended’ by Wine Spectator, and 95 by Wine Enthusiast who also noted it a ‘Cellar Selection’, and 92 by Vinous.

Deep inky purple-black colored, full bodied, concentrated rich opulent and expressive, complex, but polished and elegant, round sweet ripe raspberry, plum and currant fruits with spice-box, mocha chocolate, crème de cassis notes and accents licorice of cedar and pencil graphite finishing with full but smooth fine-grained silky tannins.

RM 95 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?2636415

https://www.odetteestate.com/

Prior to and with the dinner course Bill opened a couple of Napa Cabernet’s, a well known producer and label from Napa Oakville, and one sourced from Howell Mountain. 

Freemark Abbey Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

This is a producer we know well from Bill’s extensive collection of labels having been in their wine club for more than two decades. We’ve had many memorable tastings of this producer’s artwork together including several visits to the estate and winery in Napa Valley. We last tasted this wine together back in 2017 as featured in these pages in this blogpost - https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2017/10/freemark-abbey-napa-valley-cabernet.html.

In 2009 Bill and Beth and Linda and I visited the winery and toured the library and acquired vintage bottles from the library collection for special occasions including 1974 and 1978 vintage labels for an anniversary celebration dinner that night across the road at the CIA - Culinary Institute of America, Napa.
 
This is the standard Napa Valley signature label, one of their largest production labels with 24,332 cases produced of the 2013 vintage. 

Winemaker Notes for this release - “Opaque, dark ruby color introduces this wine that expresses dark fruit aroma and flavors. With spicy sweet oak complexity, the wine exudes dark fruit such as blackberry, black currant, blueberry and dark cherry. There are nuances of dark chocolate, chocolate berry truffle dusted with cocoa powder, cola, aromatic cedar, cinnamon, clove, graham crackers and a hint of tobacco. The body is very full with a soft entry, coupled with dark cherry/berry flavors that develop from start to finish. With great texture and mouth feel, this cabernet is full bodied, rich and opulent. In one word …. delicious.”

This is a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot and the rest Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. It was aged nearly 26 months in oak. 

This was rated 92 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and James Suckling. 

We last tasted this wine 

Opaque purple colored, medium full-bodied, concentrated, structured rich blackberry and blackcurrant fruits with notes of leather and tobacco leaf with hints of spice and mocha chocolate with moderate tannins on a flavorful lingering finish. 

RM 92 points. 



While the ladies enjoyed the more approachable fruit forward Odette, Bill and I dove into this aged vintage Bordeaux Blend for pairing with the grilled beefsteak.

Château Calon-Ségur St-Estèphe Grand Cru Classe Bordeaux 1995

This was a special vintge wine, ideal for such as tasting, from the Left Bank of Bordeaux. 

Linda and I visited the Château Calon-Ségur estate and vineyards just outside the village of St-Estèphe during our Left Bank Bordeaux tour in 2019. We hold the remains of a case we acquired on release and were interested to see how this is aging. We enjoy gifting this wine for weddings, anniversaries and special occasions with the heart on the label. 

Son Ryan brought this label to one of our Pour Boy’s wine dinners back on its tenth anniversary in 2016 featured in these pages in this blogpost - Mouton, Dominus, Insignia Highlight Big Red Wine Dinner.

This release was rated 97 points by James Suckling, 95 by Wine Spectator who rated it ‘Ranked #6 Wine Spectator Top 100 of 1998’, 94 by Wine Advocate, 93 by John Gilman, and 91 by International Wine Cellar. 

James Suckling wrote,.” It's one of the best Calons ever.” Robert Parker lauded this Calon-Ségur as one of the stars of the vintage. 

At 30 years of age, it shows no signs of diminution of age or reaching the end of the plateau of its drinking window, while it will not likely improve with further aging it should remain fine several more years. 

Dark garnet colored, medium to full-bodied, complex but nicely balanced, black cherry and black berry fruits with notes of leather, black olive, cassis, cigar box with smooth soft fine tannins and nice acidity on the moderate finish.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1577

https://www.calon-segur.fr/en/


Sequoia Grove Henry Brothers Vineyard Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

Bill also opened this big red Napa Cabernet from a well known producer, but little known vineyard source. 

Historic Sequoia Grove Winery estate sits on 22 acres in the Rutherford sub-appellation located in a renovated old barn just off of Highway 29, one mile north of the landmark Oakville Grocery. The winery takes its name from the two large Sequoia trees outside the main entrance and a small stand of additional trees that were planted in 1908. 

Sequoia Grove Winery was founded in 1978 by James and Barbara Allen who purchased the property in 1980 the same year as their first vintage. James’ brother Steve managed the vineyard at the time. James was also a founding partner of Domaine Carneros and was instrumental in creating the Rutherford sub appellation.

Since 2002, the winery has been owned by the Kopf family who own Kopbrand, the New York based wine distributor founded in 1944. They also own St. Francis Winery in Sonoma County and 50% of Domaine Carneros in partnership with France based Taittinger. 

The property has a long history with numerous owners dating back to 1895 and owner Dennis Downey from Ireland, who moved to Napa Valley in 1858 and purchased his 119 acre ranch in 1863. He had 45 acres planted to corn and 60 acres to vineyards of which much of 40 acres were overtaken by phylloxera.

The estate vineyards are planted with Bordeaux varietal grapes. Sequoia Grove also sources grapes from select vineyards around Napa Valley. Sequoia Grove Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon,  a 100% varietal comes from the estate as well as several premium vineyards in Oakville and Rutherford including the well known highly acclaimed Morisoli and a Beckstoffer owned property. 

Besides the estate vineyards adjacent the property, Sequoia Grove produce wines from a number of vineyards ranging from the southern part of the valley (cooler) to the warmer northern reaches in Calistoga. Many of these are offered as ultra-premium single vineyard designated labels. 

In addition to this Howell Mountain Perry Brothers Vineyard, they also source fruit from the tiny 4-acre Christian vineyard in Coombsville, the Tonella Vineyard, the well known legendary Stagecoach Vineyard on Atlas Peak, the Cambium vineyard, Lamoreaux Vineyard in the Oak Knoll District. 

In 2023 Sequoia Grove purchased over 100 acres on Mt. Veeder that used to be owned by Donald Hess, the founder of Hess Collection. About 75% of the site is forested with the remaining acres are planted to red Bordeaux varieties. We visited the Hess property back in the early ‘90’s and have driven by it many times on our visits to the mountain. The first vintage produced from this property by Sequoia Grove was in 2023.

For several years Sequoia Grove was known as ‘the three ‘M’s’ for Morisoli Vineyard and their winemakers Mike Trujillo & Molly Hill. Molly Hill was a graduate of the UC Davis Viticulture and Enology program. She traveled the globe, working and studying in Chile and New Zealand, as well as her native California, before settling in at Sequoia Grove to work with well-respected winemaker Michael Trujillo. They worked with viticulturist Jake Terrell on the Rutherford estate vineyards as well as a selection of growers on the Rutherford Bench, Pritchard Hill, Howell Mountain and the foothills of St. Helena, Yountville, and Oak Knoll.

Neither are with Sequoia Grove any longer and today’s Winemaker is Jesse Fox.

Winemaker notes - “The Sequoia Grove Howell Mountain Henry Brothers 2018 is a full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon showcasing rich flavors of dark fruit, black cherry, and hints of oak, reflecting the unique terroir of Howell Mountain in Napa Valley. This region is known for its elevated vineyards and volcanic soils, contributing to the wine's balanced acidity and robust tannins.”

Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, while complex, this was not as concentrated or as expressive as many Howell Mountain Cabs, and was overshadowed by the huge Stag’s Leap Odette. Never-the-less, it showed smooth, polished blackberry and black plum fruits with notes of spice, dark chocolate and hints of pepper and pencil graphite with structured but approachable moderate tannins on the finished. 

RM 90 points. 


Previous Pour Boys OTBN Events


Pour Boys OTBN 2019 - Open That Bottle Night

Pour Boys OTBN 2018 - Open That Bottle Night

Pour Boys OTBN 2016 - Open That Bottle Night 

Pour Boys OTBN 2015 - Open That Bottle Night -  Bordeaux Anchors OTBN 2015

Pour Boys OTBN - Open That Bottle Night 2014

Pour Boys OTBN 2013 - Open That Bottle Night 2013 

Pour Boys OTBN 2012 - Open That Bottle Night

Pour Boys OTBN 2011 - Open That Bottle Night.

Wednesday, November 20, 2024

Steak Dinner at The Wine Bar Destin

Steak Dinner at The Wine Bar Destin 

Following the delightful and superbly staged Tour of Bordeaux Wine Dinner at The Wine Bar Destin, the other night, we returned later in the week, our last night Destin before returning home, for grilled beef steak dinner.  

We opened with their delightful Pear Blue Cheese Spinach Salad with fresh berries, sliced pears and vinagrette.


For an entree we had the Wine Bar Filet - 8 oz hand cut filet of beef tenderloin with Roasted Rosemary Fingerling Potato’s and Asparagus Spears. This was delicious, perfectly prepared, presented and served. 


For a wine accompaniment with our dinner we took advantage of the Wine Happy Hour where they serve a 12oz carafe of wine for the price of a large glass, from a broad extensive selection of wines of each varietal from across all the major growing regions in the world.

We selected a Right Bank St Emilion Bordeaux which as expected, turned out to be a perfect pairing to complement the meal, and enhance the enjoyment of the wine. 

Like the carefully selected flight of Bordeaux wines from the curated wine dinner, this was an excellent offering of a high QPR (Quality Price Ratio) wine. 

Chateau Angelus Tempo d'Angelus 2022

Tempo d’Angelus is a ‘second wine’ (actually a ‘third’ entry level label), a more streamlined version of its illustrious older siblings, Château Angelus and Carillon d’Angelus. While being their lesser wine, it still exhibited the characteristic depth and complexity of the Grand Vin, while offering at the same time a more approachable and affordable alternative. Produced from the great Angelus terroirs and made with the expertise of the estate’s teams, Tempo d’Angelus offers even the most demanding wine lover instant or early gratification in an attractive, well-structured, precise and hedonistic wine that doesn’t require 15 or 20 years of cellaring to be enjoyed at its peak, as is often the case for the Grand Cru wines.

This is a new wine from Chateau Angélus, from the area of Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux, it is produced from vines located at Saint-Magne-de-Castillon, Castillon-La-Bataille and Sainte-Colombe, a few kilometres from Saint-Émilion, on magnificent clay-limestone slopes. These plots were acquired by Angelus in 2017 with the precise purpose of creating a Bordeaux appellation wine while increasing the Angelus portfolio, and offering an introduction to the brand for more cost conscious consumers. This can be enjoyed at a fraction of the price of the Grand Vin and even the second label. 

From south-facing holdings in the Castillon-Côtes-de-Bordeaux AOC, the fruit is declassified into generic Bordeaux. In the tradition of the Right bank, the blend is 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. 

This release was awarded 92 points by pundit James Suckling, and 90 points by Decanter, Jeb Dunnuck and The Wine Advocate. 

Winemaker Notes: This new addition to the range of wines of Château Angélus, made under the Bordeaux appellation, offers a more streamlined version of its illustrious elders -Angélus, Carillon d’Angélus and N°3 d’Angélus, with which it shares the same depth and complexity while being at the same time more approachable young.

Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, bright vibrant silky smooth polished, balanced black raspberry and currant fruits with spicy notes of herbs, limestone and pencil lead graphite, with firm but polished nicely integrated tannins on a lingering flavorful finish.

RM 91 points. 


Monday, November 18, 2024

Tour of Bordeaux Wine Dinner at The Wine Bar Destin

Tour of Bordeaux Wine Dinner at The Wine Bar Destin

During our getaway week at The Cove, our vacation home getaway in Destin (FL), we attended the Price Fixe Wine dinner at the "Tour of Bordeaux" Wine Dinner at The Wine Bar in Destin

This is the same restaurant where we held our Pour Boys Wine Group wine dinner last spring as we gathered in Destin (FL) for the gala SoWal (South Walton Beaches) Wine Festival weekend.

That Saturday evening following the SoWal Wine Festival Activities, we dined at The Chef’s Table Wine Room in The Wine Cellar Room at the Wine Bar Restaurant in Destin. We featured that dinner in this blogpost in these pages - Chef’s Table Dinner at Wine Bar Destin.

This “Tour of Bordeaux” evening was kicked off and hosted by emcee Wade Starwalt, Wine Sales Director of The Wine Bar. 

The dinner showcased a curated flight of carefully selected Bordeaux wines, each paired with a gourmet dinner course, crafted to enhance and complement that courses distinct characteristics. 

As I’ve exclaimed often in these pages, the proper pairing matching food with the ideal wine greatly amplifies the enjoyment of both. 

The pairings this evening were wonderful for each course. This was especially impressive since several of the wines were modestly priced high QPR (Quality-Price-Ratio) wines, which showed exceptionally well with the accompanying food courses. It’s easy to pair foods with expensive wines, but much more challenging to achieve great pairings with moderately priced wines. 

Each wine paired with the courses was then curated and described by guest speaker Cassidy Stiebing, Regional Sales Director and Bordeaux expert from Twins, a French Bordeaux Negociant and US Distributor.

Wine steward, Cassidy Stiebing is a native of New Orleans, Louisiana, now residing in New York City. Her time between those two cities included several years in Europe, where she pursued a career in the wine industry — first in La Rioja, Spain, then in France. In 2019, she earned an MBA in Wine Business from INSEEC University in Bordeaux, which led to her role at Château Pape Clément, overseeing the U.S. market.

After six years immersed in the world of Bordeaux, Cassidy transitioned to the negociant side of the industry in 2023, taking on her current role as Regional Sales Director and Bordeaux Ambassador at TWINS Bordeaux. (Twins provided photo).

The evening was delightful with exceptional food and wonderful wines, supurbley prepared, presented and served. All were matched perfectly to ameliorate each course. The venue, setting, food, wine, program presentation and service were all spectacular, meeting the highest expectations in every respect and offering a great value for such an event. 


The wine flight:

The dinner courses, and pairings:

First Course.- Reception - Goat Cheese Croquettes with tomato sauce, Acorn Squash, Gorgonzola and Walnut Crostini, and Cheese and Sausage Stuffed Mushrooms with Garlic Aioli. 


Paired with the first course was Château Puyanche’ Cotes de Bordeaux 2022. This Grand Vin de Bordeaux  is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. 


The First Course was Shaved Sprout Salad with Apples, Walnuts, Cranberries, Feta Cheese, and Braised Pork Belly with Hot Bacon Vinaigrette. 



The Second Course was Grilled Hangar Steak with Chimichurri, New Portato Dauphinoise and Carrots.


The wine paired for the Second course Château Lilian Ladouys St Estephe 2018


The Third Course was Bone-In Venison Chop with Roasted Butternut Sage Veloute’ Sauce over Parsnip Mash. 

The venison was brilliantly paired with Château Poesia Grand Cru St Emilion 2019. 


The Fourth and Final Course was Dark Chocolate Expresso Panna Cotta with Conconut and Raspberry Coulis. 

The Fourth Dessert Course was paired with Château Clos Junet Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2020


We certainly don’t need more wine for our cellar and thereby are selection in what we acquire these days as we work to consume our broad collection. As such while we do strive to support the venues that host such events, we don’t always feel compelled to acquire the wines. Never-the-less, we thought enough of the flight this evening that we purchased each of the selected wines to have for future consumption at our holiday home. 

Friday, August 2, 2024

Summer dinner on the patio at Chez Joel

Summer dinner on the patio at Chez Joel Bistro, Chicago, with special vintage birth year BYOB wine

Going back more than a decade it’s been a tradition of summer to have dinner on the patio at Chez Joel Bistro in Little Italy, Chicago

We dined with Son Sean and his family, MIchelle and their two daughters, our grand-daughters for whom we babysit for several days each week, including the last couple of weeks.
 

We ordered several starters before dinner - our usual Pate’, the Escargot and tonight’s special Cerviche

Pâté de deux Sortes - Duck Liver Pâté with Traditional Garnish & Toast Points

Escargots A La Bourguignon - French Snails with Garlic Butter, Pernod & Herbed Breadcrumbs

For our dinner entrees, Linda had one of the daily specials, Pan Seared Alaskan Halibut with bok choy, corn/mango salsa and pomme puree’.

Sean and I both ordered from the menu the regular Duck entree -  

Magret et Confit de Canard, Sauce à L’orange - Seared Duck Breast & Leg Confit, Wild Mushrooms, Red Cabbage, Beets, Poached Pear, Sweet Potato Puff 


Michelle ordered the Rack of Lamb chops served with pomme’ purée. 


For a special wine with dinner, I pulled from the cellar an aged vintage wine commemorating Sean’s birth year that we took BYOB.

Cos d’Estournel St. Estephe Bordeaux 1985

For a special wine with dinner, I pulled from the cellar an aged vintage wine commemorating Sean’s birth year that we took BYOB.

Chateau Cos d'Estournel is a Grand Cru vineyard located on the road from Pauillac as you enter the St. Estephe appellation. Its oriental facade is adorned with three pagoda turrets.


The estate is situated in the very south of Saint-Estèphe, just north of Pauillac's Lafite Rothschild where the south-facing vineyard slopes gently down to the Jalle du Breuil stream which separates it from the first growth Chateau Lafite Rothschild. 

We visited the iconic Chateau Cos d'Estournel with oriental facade adorned with three pagoda turrets and the Grand Cru vineyards in St. Estephe during our visit to Bordeaux in 2019. 

Cos d’Estournel St. Estephe Bordeaux 1985

In old Gascon, "cos" means "hill of pebbles", and the vineyard does consist of deep Quaternary gravels and clay on limestone bedrock. 

The Chateau Cos d'Estournel estate covers 170 acres separated from Chateau Lafite Rothschild on the southern edge, by the stream between St. Estephe and Pauillac. The gravelly soil, over a flint, limestone and silicate subsoil low in nitrogen, has eroded over centuries to form steep ridges which perfectly drain the vineyards. 

The vineyards are planted 60 percent in Cabernet Sauvignon vines, 2 percent of Cabernet Franc, and 38 percent in Merlot. Naturally, the percentage of Cabernet or Merlot in the composition of each vintage depends on the climate which favors one grape variety or the other.

In the 1855 Classification, it was classified as a second growth and remains one of the most prominent and sought-after of all Bordeaux wines. Historically, the Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant grand vin has had a high percentage of Merlot compared with other Médoc growths, although this has lessened in recent years. 

Cos d'Estournel is known to be dark, brooding and tannic when young, developing complexity and intensity with time.

1985 Cos d'Estournel, St-Estèphe

This release was awarded a concensus 93 points by Wine Advocate, Vinous and Wine Spectator. 

Still holding its own at forty years shows the age worthiness of this wine in top vintages and the 1985 from cask could have been a lighter version of the 1982 and 1953 vintages. We’ve held this since acquiring it on release back in the eighties. The foil, label and importantly the cork and fill level were all acceptable for their age. The cork was partly saturated and a bit soft but was able to be extracted by the waiter with his traditional cork screw. 

Showing its age, the color was garnet colored and a bit opaque with moderate bricking, medium bodied, ever so slight subdued nose on the concentrated red and black berry and black cherry fruits accented by leather, tobacco and spice with a hints of cedar and pain grille on a moderate finish of fine grained tannins. 

Vinous said “This bottle constitutes the best example of the 1985 that I have encountered.”

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?13153

https://www.chezjoelbistro.com/

https://www.estournel.com/en/


 

Thursday, June 27, 2024

Sarget de Gruaud 2006

Château Gruaud Larose Sarget de Gruaud Larose

Settling in to watch the Presidential Debates I pulled from the cellar a vintage Bordeaux to sip with a collection of artisan cheeses, charcuterie, fresh berries, nuts and roasted beets.

Château Gruaud Larose is one of the most historic estates in the Médoc and was on our select set of St Julien producers we targeted to visit during our trip to the region.

This is the second label of a producer we know well with the flagship premiere label being one of the key holdings in our cellar collection consisting of more than a dozen vintages spanning three decades dating back to 1980 including the birth year vintages of each of our kids, 1981, 1982, 1985 and 1990. 

We hold many vintages in large format bottles including 3 liter double magnums and a five liter Jeroboam that we served at daughter Erin's and son-in-law Johnny's wedding in this label’s vintage year 2006.

Indeed, our collection of large format bottles was one of the keys to our cellar collection being featured in Wine Spectator Magazine’s Collector section back in June of 2001.

Our visit to Chateau was one of the highlights our visit to the St Julien region of Bordeaux back in 2019. I wrote about that visit and featured this producer in detail in these pages in this blogpost at that time - 


This label is the second wine of Gruaud Larose, named for the Sarget family, historic early ancestral owners of the estate. It  provides value and near-term drinkability for those looking for a classic though ripe St-Julien. Named after Baron Jean Auguste Sarget, one of the men who purchased the Gruaud-Larose property in 1812 and whose family managed the estate for the following fifty years. 

Over the next century, the estate would be divided, with a portion being controlled by the Sarget family. The estate has since been reunited and the château that Sarget built stands as the centerpiece of the property. The estate introduced the second wine in 1979.

Label from vintage tasted
at the Chateau,
This, the second wine of Gruaud Larose, provides value and near-term drinkability for those looking for a classic though ripe St-Julien. Named after Baron Jean Auguste Sarget, one of the men who purchased the Gruaud-Larose property in 1812 and whose family managed the estate for the following fifty years.

Over the next century, the estate would be divided, with a portion being controlled by the Sarget family. The estate has since been reunited and the château that Sarget built stands as the centerpiece of the property. The estate introduced the second wine in 1979.

This is a classic Left Bank Bordeaux Blend of predominant Cabernet Sauvignon, 60%, Merlot, 30%, Cabernet Franc 5.5%, Petit Verdot 3% and Malbec 1.5%.

Tonight, this was a bit disappointing and didn’t meet my expectations. At eighteen years, the label, foil and importantly the cork and fill level were all perfect. This showed no diminution of age whatsoever and I thought it would be at the apex of its drinking profile and window, and perhaps it was. 

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, somewhat flabby and disjointed black currant fruit were overshadowed by notes of tobacco, cedar, leather, earth and smoke with a modest somewhat muted fruit finish. 

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?364398

https://www.gruaud-larose.com/en/wines/sarget-2006/

A Visit to Château Gruaud-Larose

https://x.com/unwindwine


Friday, May 3, 2024

Kansas City Beefsteak at George’s French Bistro Wine Bar Witchita

Kansas City Beefsteak at George’s French Bistro and Wine Bar Witchita 

We traveled to Kansas for an extended full weekend of activities including a wedding, visiting several Frank Lloyd Wright sites, and re-shooting an Arts and Crafts architectural site for a collaboration on an upcoming architecture book. 

We traveled to Witchita to visit the Frank Lloyd Wright Allen House, and other properties. While there we dined at George’s French Bistro and Wine Bar located in the College Hill neighborhood, not far from the historic architectural landmark sites. 

It is owned and operated by Chef George Youssef, formerly of Wichita’s Nouvelle Cafe and Uptown Bistro. Originally from Lebanon, Youssef got schooled in French cuisine in Quebec, Canada.

George’s looks and feels like a true Parisian bistro with its decorating and design, indoor and outdoor tables, crisp white table clothes, an open kitchen and gleaming brass-accented bar serving classically prepared bistro dishes served by waitstaff in traditional black vests and ties.



We were seated in the dining room and while we were dining, the bar and dining room started to fill up, and only when we departed, did we see they had opened the front doors to spill out to the patio.  

Normally we might opt for authentic French cuisine at such an establishment, but being in Kansas, we ordered the Kansas City filet of beefsteaks. They pronounce that “We proudly serve Creekstone Farms Premium Black Angus Beef. Our steaks are hand cut and cooked to your satisfaction. Creekstone Farms is famous throughout the world for their rich flavor.”

In French style, the steaks were accompanied by Parisian Potatoes (pomme Frits, fried potatoes), and haricot verts, (green beans). 

Each filet of beef was served with choice of sauces which included BURGUNDY DEMI GLACE - Red wine veal reduction, AU POIVRE - Brandy peppercorn, HOLLANDAISE - Butter, egg yolks, lemon juice, salt, cayenne pepper,  or L’ ENTRECÔTE  - Fresh thyme & thyme flowers, full cream, white anchovies, Dijon mustard, hazelnuts, butter, egg yolks, salt & pepper.

I went simple with the Demi Glace. Linda opted for both the Demi glacé and Au Poivre. Both were excellent.

Our steaks were superb, and the preparations were perfect! 

Readers of these pages know I prefer my beefsteak prepared “Pittsburgh” style … but rather than traditionally rare, I specify ‘hot pink center, Pittsburgh style, or charred slightly”. 

Tonight’s steak was perfect - an object lesson in ideal preparation to my liking! 

https://georgesfrenchbistro.com/

For a wine accompaniment pairing with our our dinner we ordered WBTG - Wines By The Glass, from the wine list. 

I ordered this Haut Lagarde, because a French Bordeaux Blend is my favorite pairing with beef. Moreover, I used to work with colleague Gary LaGarde, who had a distance ancestral relationship to the French wine producer of the same name. 

Les Hauts de LaGarde Bordeaux 2022

Winemaker: Maison Raymond

Appellation: A.O.C. Bordeaux

Location: Located in the Saint Laurent du Bois, Entre-Deux-Mers region, not far from the city of Bordeaux. The wines are sourced in the villages of Saint-Laurent-du-Bois, Saint-Martial, and Saint-Felix de Conclude

Dating back to  medieval times, the Raymond family have a long history of producing wine, dating back to 1850. The family property of the domaine du Château de Lagarde has been built up over the years by successive generations.

Varietal(s): 65 % Merlot, 25 % Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Cabernet Franc

Ageing: 10% of the wine was aged in oak.

Vineyard Terroir: With close proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, these vines are grown in a mild climate with lots of sunshine, regular rain, and clay-limestone soil, the vines and grapes are grown in the best conditions for Bordeaux varietals.

The wine was reviewed by Wine Enthusiast, Wine Spectator and Decanter. 

Published Tasting Notes: “A core of blackberry and black cherry preserves shows good energy as the flavors move through an anise- and sweet tobacco–tinged finish. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.

Attractive structured tannins and red fruits give this wine a good start in life. With the acidity, the dusty structure and the perfumed aftertaste, the wine will develop well. Wine Enthusiast

"Good fruit, raspberry and strawberry summery flavors from winemaker Lionel Raymond. A touch short but full of character, from a blend of 65% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc. Only indigenous yeasts used at this organic estate – the family has a full 180 hectares certified in the Entre Deux Mers region, with new cellars that are powered by 2,500m2 of solar panels.Decanter Magazine

Translucent ruby red hue with cool aromatics, green herbal notes, cedar, cypress, and red currant. Palate reveals ripe red fruit, red plums, raspberries, ripe blueberries, along with cigar box spice, pencil shavings, and a strong cypress note on the finish.

Beautiful crimson robe with intense purple reflections. This wine reveals great aromas of fresh fruits and spices. The fruitiness, roundness and tannic mouth give it a rare elegance.

The fruitiness, roundness and tannic mouth gives it a rare elegance. Ideal with pork roasts and your favorite cheese. A harmonious wine. This wine reveals great aromas of blackcurrant, blackberries and spices. Beautiful crimson robe with intense purple reflections. Enjoy with red meat, poultry, pasta dishes and your favorite cheese.

Varietal(s): 65% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc

Winemaker notes - “A core of blackberry and black cherry preserves shows good energy as the flavors move through an anise- and sweet tobacco–tinged finish. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Made with Organically Grown Grapes”

In 2000, Lionel Raymond purchased the Château Joumes Fillon organic vineyard. Because of Lionel’s strong beliefs in and respect for the environment and terroir, he decided to convert the whole vineyard (130 hectares) to organic agriculture. Most winemakers in the area thought he was crazy as it is twice the work of a conventional vineyard. Today, they are one of the largest organic wineries in Bordeaux, and part of the exclusive 7% of all wineries of the region who have made the organic commitment.

The Vineyards - The different properties of the domaine benefit from specific conditions: special orientation of the vineyards, composition of the soil, humidity, age of the vines…These conditions are refined during the winemaking allowing them to offer a large range of products. Over 20 people work in the vineyard and the cellars, and consistently looking for innovative techniques in terms of production, vintification with respect for the vines, soil and environment.

Vignobles Raymond produces classic varietals and Bordeaux blends: Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Another label, Le Petit du Château de Lagarde is 100% Merlot. 

This provided great QPR and was a wonderful pairing with the dinner. It was carefully selected for the winelist. 

Garnet colored, medium to full bodied, pleasant easy drinking, round flavorful complex black berry and black currant fruits with notes of black tea, tobacco, anise and spice. 

RM 88 points. 

For Linda, and her pairing with the filet of beef, we selected a Southern Rhône River Valley “GSM” (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre) Red Blend. 

Cellier Des Dauphines Reserve Côtes du Rhône Grenache Syrah 2021

Another carefully selected, high QPR, pleasant easy drinking wine. 

This is produced by the Cellier des Dauphins, a collective, group of winegrowers called “Union des Vignerons des Côtes du Rhône” which is a collaboration since 1967 of 2000 winegrower families of the southern Rhone Valley. With 12 000 hectares of vines, and around twenty appellations, Cellier des Dauphins has become the leading wine producer in the Rhone Valley in less than 50 years.

Cellier des Dauphins has become one of France’s benchmark Rhône brands. Cellier des Dauphins is now the first producer of Organic wines in the Rhône Valley founded to serve a devotion to the protection the environment. 


This is a blend of Rhône varietals - 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah.

Winemaker Notes - “This wine displays a deep red hue with ruby tints and notes of sun-ripened black fruit on the nose. The palate offers a velvety texture and spicy notes underpinned by ripe black fruit, blackcurrants and black cherries. A more modern take on the traditional Côtes du Rhône style, this wine combines structure, freshness and smooth tannins. It has a seductively elegant, intense and long-lingering finish.”


Dark ruby/garnet colored, light medium bodied, tightly wound, structured complex black fruits with notes of black tea, spice, hints of black pepper and lavender notes on a pronounced lingering tannin laced acidic finish. 

RM 87 points.