Old and recent reds with ribeye steaks

Old and recent Big Reds with Grilled Ribeye Beefsteaks

We hosted son Alec & daughter-in-law Vivanna and their girls for grilled rib-eye beefsteaks dinner, served with roasted potatoes, grilled mushrooms and onions, which Alec grilled while Linda prepared most of the rest of the meal, 

They came over to bring cupcakes and to have cake for/with cousin/grandaughter Lilac’s birthday for whom we were babysitting. 

I was going to pull one of the wines from the producers we visited together during our Rhône Valley Wine Experience back in 2018, but I pulled from the cellar a special, vintage aged wine from Alec’s birth year, from that southern Rhône appellation that we visited. We had just tasted this producer’s wines at the SoWal Wine Festival in (San) Destin, FL, featured in these pages in blogpost - SoWal Wine Festival Sandestin.

We also pulled a more recent vintage big red for those not so inclined to enjoy an aged vintage release, and a white to pair with the artisan cheese that Alec and Viv brought. 

On their way over, Alec & Viv picked up an artisan English Stilton Blue Cheese at Murray’s cheese-shop inside the local Mariano’s grovery. We have fun with these cheeses ever since we used to visit the original Murray’s Cheese retail shop and adjacent wine bar restaurant on Bleecker Street in Greenwich Village, Manhatten when we visited them when they were living in nearby Chelsea. 

I love this cheese selection which provided a perfect pairing with the remains of the Barsac Sauterne we had left over from our neighborhood wine tasting last week in Destin - featured in this blogpost  Neighborhood Wine Tasting and Small Bites Gathering. 

Château Cantegril Barsac Bordeaux 2019

This is a highly-regarded, unclassified sweet dessert wine produced by the Dubourdieu family, owners of the winery since 1924. The Dubourdieu family also owns Chateau Doisy Daene a producer of Classified Sauternes.

Chateau Cantegril has a 22 hectare plot on the chalky plateau of the Haut Barsac. It is located where once a fortified castle of the same name stood back in the Middle Ages.

Barsac dessert wines tend to provide high QPR - quality price ratios, as more modest variations of the neighboring Sauternes, which tend to be slightly sweeter and richer, and far more expensive, due to the very small yield of the late harvested grapes ‘Botrytisized’ grapes. 

It is a blend of primarily Sémillon, 65%, and Sauvignon Blanc, 35%, grapes grown in limestone-rich soils.

Fermentation takes place in barrels having separated each sorted pick of each individual plot. It is aged 12 months in french oak barrels.

Annual Production is 30 000 bottles

Golden colored, full bodied, thick unctuous, rich, sweet nutty caramel fruits, with notes of pear, white flowers, ginger and passionfruit, citrus, honey, and spice with balanced acidity.

RM 89 points. 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wineFamily/1407573

Château Boisrenard Châteauneuf-du-Pape 1990 

We opened a wine from Domaine de Beaurenard whose wine we tasted at the recent SoWal Wine Festival. It is from Chateauneuf-du-Pape, in the Rhone Valley that we visited together during our Rhone Valley Wine Experience (We visited to Château La Nerthe and Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe as the other highlight of our visit to the appellations Châteauneuf-du-Pape.)

The Domane de Beaurenard has been a family run estate for seven generations and is today run by brothers Daniel and Frederic Coulon. The estate includes 80 acres in Chateauneuf-du-Pape and 62 acres in the Cotes du Rhone Villages Rasteau appellation. Robert M. Parker Jr. calls Domaine de Beaurenard “one of the old, classic estates of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Their two offerings include the dark-colored regular cuvee and the barrique-aged Cuvee Boisrenard…Both are top flight Chateauneuf-du-Papes…”

The winery has a tasting room located on Av. Saint-Pierre de Luxembourg, the main route as you enter the village Châteauneuf-du-Pape from the south. 

Domaine de Beaurenard is another Chateauneuf du Pape estate that can be called a true, family affair. That’s because the vineyards have been in the same family for 7 generations. Domaine de Beaurenard dates way back to 1695. At the time, it went under the name of “Bois Renard,” which as you might guess, is where the special Cuvee, used for both their red and white wines got its name.

Today, Domaine de Beaurenard is managed by Frederic Coulon and Daniel Coulon. Domaine de Beaurenard has been producing, bottling, and marketing their own wine for close to 100 years. They began making their own wine at Domaine de Beaurenard in 1929.

Domaine de Beaurenard sits in the village Chateauneuf du Pape. The estate consists of just under 80 acres of vines in the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation, 70 planted to red wine grapes and 10 are reserved for making white Chateauneuf du Pape wine. The vines are located in 25 separate parcels, with much of their Grenache planted in the Cabrieres lieu-dit east of the village.

The estate is classic, typical appellation terroir with clay, limestone, and large stones in the soil. They have old vines, with some of the Grenache dating back over 100 years. Domaine de Beaurenard also owns abiout 35 acres of vineyards in the Cotes du Rhone Villages and 150 acres of vines in the Rasteau AOC. 

While Domaine de Beaurenard grows all 13 Rhone allowed grape varieties for use in their red wine, the primary grapes used in the blend are the three required varietals; Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, plus  some Cinsault, and tiny amounts of Counoise, Muscardin, Terret and Vaccarese.

The winemaking facilities were modernized in 2004. 

This is their premiere label, sourced from the same estate vineyards and produced at the same winery as their other production labels. We’ve held this bottle in our cellar for three decades since acquiring it upon release. 

At thirty five years, the foil and label, and more importantly, the fill level and cork were still in ideal condition - evidence of the cellaring conditions for long term aging in our cellar. 

This was still in its drinking window although nearing the end as it is showing its age slightly with a slight amount of rust coloration and small bit of funkiness upon opening, which blew off for more approachability on day two. Still enjoyable drinking, it is time to drink up soon, in the next couple of years. 

This release was rated 95 points by Wine Advocate back in the summer of 2000.

The wine is aged in three different sized vats, 30 hectoliter foudres, 80 hectoliter truncated oak vats, and 228-liter oak barrels for between 9 to 18 months depending on the wine and the character of the vintage.

Winemaker Notes - “Made from parcels of old vines (60-90 years in age) planted in terroirs of great personality and complexity. Grapes picked when fully ripe and meticulously hand-sorted for extra concentration. Very low yield: 15-20 hl/hectare. These old vines were planted in a mix of varieties: the symphony of 13 varieties is thus in evidence, but with a majority of Grenache. This wine spends a long time in vats, and is matured in the most traditional ways: no filtration, 18 months' ageing in oak casks, fined with fresh egg whites, bottled and left to rest in the cellars.”

Dense ruby/purple-colored, full bodied, black fruits with hints of black tea, cassis and spice box touch of oak.

RM 90 points 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/30341

I also pulled a more recent Big Red Syrah for the ladies, less inclined to enjoy the mature, aged CDP. 

Lewis Cellars Ethans Syrah 2016

We love this big full throttle style of Syrah with thick, concentrated, rich round fruits. True to the wine profile, it was packaged in an extra heavy glass bottle. 

I've often written in these pages about the fun we have with this Lewis branding, with its signature 'L' on the label, ala the sit-com Laverne and Shirley, where Laverne always wore a large “L” on her sweaters,  which we also attribute to wife Linda, or her mother Lucy, or our daughter Erin Leigh, or her daughter, our first grandchild/daughter Lucy, and other grand-daughters Lavender and Lilac, when opening it for special family occasions such as tonight 

We’ve featured this producer and this label in several previous blogposts in these pages - Father's Day Special Dinner features favorite BBQ Ribs, Syrah and Zin, and Lewis Ethan's Syrah - Piazza Del Dotto Sangiovese, excerpted below.

We visited Lewis Cellars with our wine group during our Pour Boys' 2017 Napa Wine Experience, and, Alec and Viv also visited Lewis during their Napa Valley honeymoon getaway. 

We also have fun paying tribute to the ‘Hoosier’ heritage of proprietor Randy Lewis who was also a Indianapolis 500 race driver from our native Indiana, and, their affinity to family, naming labels after their grandkids - Alec, Ethan and Mason. We adopted Alec's Blend as a signature label for son Alec and feature it at family celebrations, we more often than not open Lewis wines for family occasions, such as tonight. 

This label, Ethan's Syrah, is made from cooler-climate vines, from mountain fruit crafted from small lots selected from Mt. Veeder and Pritchard Hill at the south end of the Vaca range on the eastern range, and Mayacamas range, respectively, on the western range forming and overlooking Napa Valley in between. 

Lewis Cellars Syrah is a nod to the great Rhône wines it's modeled after. It is aged in American oak. 

We love Lewis' style of big, spicy, concentrated wines that are balanced, yet full of black fruit and mature, mouth-coating tannins.

This was aged in American and French oak for 19 months.

This was stunningly good. Dark inky blackish purple, full bodied, concentrated, dense rich, the 100% Syrah fruit explodes in the mouth with flavors of ripe blackberries and blueberries, notes of clove spice, smoke and toast. and spice, tongue coating, chewy tannins on the long finish. Spectacular! 

RM 94 points.  

Winemaker's notes on this wine, "Savory  and  sweet  with  ripe  boysenberry  and  blue  fruit, lavender,  pancetta  and  white  truffle,  it  exudes  an  earthy,  engaging  character.  Vivid,  clean  and focused   on   the   palate,   the   wine  finishes   with  a  flourish  of  mineral   and  white  pepper."

Wine Spectator also gave this 94 points; "Plush yet well-structured, with luxurious blackberry, mocha and smoky spice flavors that build richness toward refined tannins. Drink now through 2025. — T.F."

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3060607

https://www.lewiscellars.com/

New Year’s Eve Celebration Dinner

New Year’s Eve Celebration Dinner

Son Sean and Michelle and the daughters/grand-daughters treated us to New Year’s Eve dinner. We dined at one of our favorite eateries, Hemingway’s Bistro in Oak Park (IL). We’ve enjoyed and hosted many dinners at Hemingway’s including our Pour Boys wine group, family and anniversary celebrations. 

Hemingway’s was booked for the entire evening and decorated festively for the holiday (s). 

We dined early to beat the crowds and allow for the children’s schedule. 

Hemingway’s offered a price fixe holiday dinner but we each ordered from the traditional menu, opting for our regular favorites from a menu we know well. 

From the limited but focused wine list, we started with Champagne to enjoy with our starter course (s).

Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut Rosém NV

This Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut Rosé French sparkling wine is from Alsace in the northeast corner of France on the German border. It is made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes using the traditional method.

Lucien Albrecht (pronounced Lu-Shen All-Bresht), one of the most distinguished producers of white wines in Alsace was founded in 1698 by Balthazar Albrecht in Orschwihr, a small village surrounded by by rolling hills and very complex and deep chalky soils with a high percentage of clay and sandstone screes, benefiting from South or Southeast exposure. ideally situated for grape-growing. 

The Crémant d’Alsace Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) was created in 1976 to distinguish the wines obtained by the sparkling champagne method. The term “crémant” comes originally from Champagne but is seldom used, in recognition of the efforts made by several Alsatian winemakers, including the Maison Lucien Albrecht.

Lucien Albrecht was a pioneer in the Crémant d’Alsace, which it began producing in 1971. Today the winery produces still and sparkling wines, all produced with fruit sourced exclusively from estate vineyards, including the Grand Cru Pfingstberg and Grand Cru Spiegel. 

The winemaking team is led by Jérôme Keller. Winemaker Notes - The flavors display nice strawberry and wild cherry fruit, with a touch of richness on the mid palate. It is balanced with dry, crisp acidity and complimented with a creamy texture and long finish. 

This NV label was rated 90 points by Wine Enthusiast and 88 points by James Suckling.

This modest priced wine provides high QPR. - quality price ratio. Dust orange colored, medium bodied, nicely balanced strawberry with apple and pear notes with hints of orange, lemon and pain grille with fine bubbles on the dry finish

https://www.lucien-albrecht.com/our-wines/cremants-alsace-lucien-albrecht/ 

We ordered several selections for our starter courses:

Blue Point Oysters - six piece, cocktail sauce

Chicken Liver Pate - Dijon Mustard | Cornichons | Toasted Crostini

Foie Gras du Jour - Caramelized Fruit, Pear Slices, Candy Onions, Parsnip Puree, Balsamic Vinaigrette

For the entree course: 

Linda the Roasted Stripe Bass A'la Piperade - pepper relish, golden raisins and cassoulet beans.

Michelle ordered the Grilled Steak Frites - Pommes Frites | Herb Stuffed Baked Tomato | Beurre Maitre d'Hotel.

Sean ordered the Duo of Magret Duck - parsnip puree, shitake caps, blood orange demi.

I ordered the New York Steak au Poivre - Cream Spinach | Pommes Au Gratin | Green Peppercorn Sauce

I took BYOB from our cellar for the occasion a vintage St Julien Bordeaux from one of our favorite producers for a perfect food wine pairing with the French cuisine.

Château Gruaud-Larose St Julien-Beychevelle Bordeaux 2010

We enjoyed A Visit to Château Gruaud-Larose which was one of the key highlights on our 2019 trip to the St Julien Appellation (AOC) in Bordeaux. Château Gruaud-Larose, a 2ème Cru Classé or 'second growth', one of fifteen Deuxièmes Crus (Second Growths) as classified in the original Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855.

This label is one of the key holdings in our cellar collection consisting of more than a dozen vintages spanning three decades dating back to 1980 including the birth year vintages of each of our kids, 1981, 1982, 1985 and 1990. We hold many vintages in large format bottles including 3 liter double magnums which we served at daughter Erin's and son-in-law Johnny's wedding.

Tonight, I selected a vintage release that I presumed to be in the ‘Goldilock’s zone’, not too old, and not too young, but just right, at the apex of its prime drinking window. I was not disappointed, this actually exceeded my highest hopes and expectations and was absolutely delicious, a perfect pairing with the dinner - especially the Foie Gras. As I have written often in these pages, an optimal food-wine pairing amplifies and ameliorates the enjoyment of both! Such was the case tonight. 

This release was rated 97 points by Decanter, 96 points by James Suckling, 95 points by Wine Enthusiast and Jane Anson, 94 points by Vinous, and 93 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator. 

Wine Enthusiast wrote, “For anybody looking for classic Bordeaux, this is the bottle to seek.” They advise to “ Keep for many years,” but this will be difficult as it is temptingly so good! Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate writes, “ … blockbuster wine, which has been built for the long haul. This is one 2010 where patience will be required. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040.” Thankfully I have nearly a case so will enjoy watching this age gracefully. 

The producers notes about the vintage season - “Ideal ripening of all the varieties overall thanks to exceptionally dry August and September without excessive heat. Ideal harvest from first to last day allowing picking of each variety at optimum oenological maturity.”

This released was aged in 50% new oak.

Dark garnet/plum/purple colored, full bodied, full tannins and dense but balanced, smooth, polished and elegant, ripe dark raspberry, red and black currant and blueberry fruits with “loads of spice, earth, underbrush, licorice, and a hint of Provencal garrigue”, with silky tannins and a beautifully integrated tannin structure on a long and ‘very’ refined tannic structure.

RM 95 points.  

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/1123336

https://www.gruaud-larose.com/en/

https://hemmingwaysbistro.com/

https://hemmingwaysbistro.com/our-menu/

Happy New Year and Cheers in the year ahead! 

Château Saint-André Corbin St Georges St Emilion 1989

Château Saint-André Corbin St Georges St Emilion 1989

With left over pizza I opened from the cellar a ‘pizza’ wine, medium bodied, complex and modest priced for every day sipping. I pulled an aged vintage right bank Bordeaux. 

Château Saint André Corbin is one of the "finds" of the Aquitaine Wine Company's Jean-Christophe Calvet, who searches out the petite chateaus of Bordeaux that carry the same qualities found at the larger, more famous estates, but at more modest prices providing high QPR - quality price ratios, especially in better vintage years, when ‘all boats rise with the tide’.

Château Grand Corbin, Grand Cru Classé is in the Saint-George-Saint-Emilion appellation, a lesser ‘satellite’ appellation of the famed Saint-Emilion region of Bordeaux, sitting just to its north, close to the Pomerol appellation. 

Château Grand Corbin has 32 acres of vineyards planted on clay-siliceous soils, 68% Merlot and the rest with the two Cabernets, Sauvignon and Franc. Typical of most Right Bank vineyards, Merlot dominates here, but also used is Cabernet Franc, and lesser amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend.  

At thirty-five years this was amazingly resilient, still in its acceptable drinking window and only showing modest signs of diminution from age. The cork was partially saturated but still intact. The fill level was still pristine for its age, still in the mid-neck, reflecting ideal storage conditions in our cellar for tong-term aging. Also, the 1989 vintage in Bordeaux produced high quality long lived wines. 

Garnet colored with a slight brownish hue setting in showing its age, medium bodied, complex currant and blackberry fruits are holding on but starting to show a bit of tart acidity, smoke, tobacco and hints of black pepper are starting to give way to notes of herbs, thyme and graphite pencil with pronounced acidity and moderate tannins. 

RM 87 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?333041

Gala Family Celebration Dinner Welcomes new grand-daughter Ryleigh

Gala Family Celebration Dinner Welcomes new grand-daughter Ryleigh

We gathered the family together to welcome Alec and Vivianna’s new baby, our newest grand-daughter, Ryleigh, to the family. We ordered carry out Italian cuisine from Angeli’s Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria. 

Dinner consisted of Angeli’s signature dishes, Mussels in White Wine sauce, Butternut Gnocchi, Peppers and Sausage, and Lasagna, with garlic bread and salad. 

Prior to dinner we had a medley of artisan cheeses with crackers and fresh fruits and olives. 

For the occasion, I opened a flight of wines, white, red, sparkling, and dessert, several aged vintage wines from our cellar collection of birthyear vintage wines, in this case for Alec’s birthyear. 

We celebrated and I wrote about the extraordinary, exceptional 1990 vintage, Alec’s birthyear often in these pages including - Wedding Wines - Birthyear and Big Bottle Extravaganza Continues.

Opening multiple bottles of the same vintage is called a ‘horizontal’, (as opposed to a ‘vertical’, which is multiple vintages of the same bottle/label). A horizontal tasting is often revealing in comparing how one region, varietal, appellation and producer ages relative to others. 

Charles Heidseick Brut Vintage Champagne 1990

This is one of several Heidseick Champagne houses, named for founder Charles Heidsieck, nephew of the famous uncle of the Piper-Heidsieck Champagne House. Charles Heidsieck was born in 1822 and married into the Piper family. 

Charles grew up in the vineyards and gained experience at his uncle’s business, but left to pursue his ambitions based on his own winemaking philosophy and founded his own Champagne House, Charles Heidsieck in Reims in 1851. 

After success in the Europe marketplace, Charles set out for America to sell his wares in the US and was one of the first to introduce Champagne successfully to the country. He gained notoriety and popularity with his outgoing gregarious personality and he famously became known as ‘Champagne Charlie’. 

Charlie had an eventful few years in America, including being imprisoned in Louisiana on suspicion of being a spy during the Civil War. He was eventually freed by President Lincoln himself and then returned to settle in Champagne.

Unlike his peers, Charles viewed himself as a blender and not a grower and , instead of purchasing land, he spent most of his money investing in forty-seven underground chalk cellars dating back to the 11th century. He began buying grapes from trusted grower families with expertise in perfecting the care of their vines going back generations. 

Today, Charles Heidsieck Champagne sources grapes from 60 separate sites, encompassing a variety of different Crus, some of these plots are cultivated by the fourth or fifth generation of the same family.

Charles Heidsieck is a hand-crafted champagne. The intricacies of its complex make-up have been perfected over the years by one of the most celebrated winemaking teams in Champagne. Between three winemakers they have been awarded Sparkling Winemaker of the Year at the International Wine Challenge twelve times, an award no other house has won more than twice!

The flagship cuvée, Brut Réserve, is the house’s flagship masterpiece. Many years in the making, the wine is a blend of 60 of the best vineyards and harvests going back more than 15 years. It is aged in the House’s Roman chalk cellars under Reims, which provide an ideal environment to age the wine with its unique combination of constant temperature, high humidity levels and no sound, light or vibration to disturb the wines. 

Since 2011, the company has been owned by the Descours family continuing the legacy ensuring the company remains family-run with a long-term vision for the future. In early 2015, Cyril Brun took over as Cellar Master, having been assistant winemaker for many years at Veuve Clicquot.

I’ve written often in these pages about the incredible 1990 vintage that enjoyed success globally, from Bordeaux in France, to Napa Valley in American, to Australia. Indeed, Wine Spectators Wine of the Year featured 1990 vintage releases for three years to follow.

The 1990 vintage in Champagne was also extraordinary. Despite severe frosts in the spring, the vineyards enjoyed hot weather throughout the growing cycle. Not since 1950 had the sun been so strong; grapes had never experienced so much sunlight. There was, however, no drought like in 1976 or 1959. Just at the perfect moment, as the situation became dire, it would rain.As a result, the vine stocks, deeply rooted in the chalky soil’s water reserves, did not suffer. The heat hindered the development of disease and parasites, leading to perfectly healthy grapes at harvest.

This release was a traditional blend of 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay.

Producer’s vintage notes - “TO THE EYE: A golden robe with glints of copper sparkling withdelicate phemeral bubbles. ON THE NOSE: The wine expresses maturity as it opens with notesof oxidation: spices, roasting coffee, jellied fruit sweets andcandied melon. There is also a touch of cocoa. This complex noseoffers toasted, roasted notes with citrus fruit, bergamot, lemonand orange zest. The structure develops, but contributes to thearomatic complexity without overpowering it. ON THE PALATE: The palate is characterised by nuts – walnuts andhazelnuts – but also cocoa, coffee and raisins. The wine demonstrates great elegance and freshness thanks to its citrus fruit notes accompanied by apricot and mirabelle plum. The finish is saltyand chalky.”

We acquired several bottles of this birthyear vintage designated Champagne years ago and served it at special occasions, most notably, Alec and Vivianna’s wedding celebration five years ago and at other family celebrations, since. 

We still hold several bottles of this label and need to consume them soon. At thirty five years, this had lost its effervescence, yet was still tasty and pleasant interesting drinking. 

Back in 2021 I wrote - Amazing, impressive life left in this 31 year old vintage Champagne. 

The color was dark gold colored with intense, complex, dry, finely integrated layers of zesty citrus fruits accented by notes of roasted almonds and paine grille with hints of fresh dough, smoke, and pineapple with a long bright vibrant finish.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2021/06/fathers-day-grilled-steak-wine-dinner.html

Tonight, this was tea colored, light medium bodied, dry, subtle layers of citrus fruit accented by notes of roasted almonds and paine grille with hints of fresh dough, smoke, and tones of coffee on the moderate finish. With the zest gone, it’s time to drink up the remaining bottles. 

RM 88 points for now. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?39790

Domaine de l'Ancienne Cure Monbazillac Cuvée Abbaye 1990

We opened this vintage dessert wine which went well with the salad, the cheeses, the sausage, as well as the desserts. This sweet dessert wine is from the appellation of Monbazillac, the third most esteemed region in Bordeaux for sweet wines, behind Sauternes and Loupiac. 

Early in the 20th century the wines of Monbazillac were considered equally with and fetched the same prices as the more famous, higher chateaux of Sauternes. With its exceptional terroir and microclimate suitable for the production of late harvest wines, this region is re-emerging the “new” sauternes. 

The wines of Domaine de l’Ancienne Cure are considered among the best in the region. The Domaine de l’Ancienne Cure is situated in Colombier, in the southwest of France, in the Périgord region, in the South of Bergerac, on the appellation Bergerac and Monbazillac.  

The estate covers 125 acres, 80 of which are planted with white grape varieties and 17 with red grape varieties. The grape varieties selected and vinified for the dry and sweet wines are Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Muscadelle, and Chenin and Ondenc which are ‘accessory’ grape varieties permitted in the appellation, with a limited percentage in the blend. The grape varieties selected for the red and rosé wines include Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Malbec.

Christian Roche has managed the winery since 1984. He rebuilt the wine cellar in 1989 in the his endeavors to improve the quality of the wines.

This is a blend of traditional Monbazillac varietal grapes: 80% botrysized Semillon and 20% Muscadelle. A is customary for dessert wines, the grapes are harvested in multiple passes through the vineyards with only those affected by noble rot making their way into the cuvee. This wine was aged 24 months in oak barrel.

At thirty five years, the label and foil, and more importantly the cork and fill level were in ideal condition for their age. The color was deep dark brownish golden tea colored. When released this wine was straw colored, then darkened with aging, turning golden, then increasingly deeper brown. 

Producers’ notes - “Here the Monbazillac is adorned with gold, as it should. While not explosive, the bouquet is a beautiful complexity candied fruit, but also notes of quince, acacia, lemon … On the palate, the sugar-acid balance is remarkable. It is both rich, powerful, bold and fresh. The wood (twenty-six months in the barrel) is perfectly allowed to express the fruit. In a word, harmonious.”

“Luscious deep gold, honeyed and fat with peachy botrytis tones, gingerbread, hazelnuts, fresh mint and eucalyptus on the palate. The Ancienne Cure is mini Mon-bee, marzipan, orange peel and spices.”

Showing its age, gone were bright sprites of apricot, oranges and quince, the fruits were subdued and turned to notes of smoky and espresso accenting the sweet honeyed citrus, yet this was very interesting and enjoyable drinking, especially nicely paired with various courses of the meal.  

RM 90 points at this stage. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=167954

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/167954

https://www.domaine-anciennecure.fr/gb/

This mini-horizontal tasting of two Bordeaux varietal wines from the same vintage was illuminating, comparing the Bordeaux to the Alexander Valley Cabernet. 

Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1990

We then opened this well known popular label from Alec’s birthyear vintage. This is the same label we served at his and Vivianna’s wedding celebration five years ago. We also still hold several bottles of the Napa Valley variant of this label. Believing it will age longer than the Alexander Valley version, we opened this one, as part of cellar inventory management. 

We wrote about this label and this birthyear release in more detail in this earlier blogpost - Special Silver Oak Birthyear wines for Festive Holiday Open House, and Birthyear vintage labels and large format bottles.

We hold over four cases of this label across a vertical collection of sixteen vintages dating back to the birthyears of each of our kids. 

At thirty five years, the label and foil, and more importantly the cork and fill level were in remarkably ideal condition for their age. 

Winemaker Notes for this release - “The 1990 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon has a stable and lively translucent, ruby red color. It offers aromas of bergamot, vanilla, and hints of black cherry. This wine has an impressive lively and bright, yet elegant, attack and mid-palate with hints of red pepper flavor. The 1990 still shows exuberance and structured tannins on the lengthy finish. Decanting suggested. “

This was rated 91 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate.

After decanting and breathing for two and a half hours, this was still approachable, albeit showing its age with a slight bit of funkiness, leather and wood setting in, offsetting the blackberry fruits. The color was still dark garnet colored with the slightest bit of cloudiness appearing. 

Medium bodied, the blackberry and black cherry fruits were hanging on with notes of leather, cigar box, cassis, spice and forest floor with a still balanced lingering finish. 

RM 89 points at this stage.   

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?10085

This was an interesting comparison to the same vintage Bordeaux below; see comments that follow. 

Chateau La Louviere Passaic Leognan Bordeaux 1990

We hold nearly three cases of a vertical collection of this label spread across a dozen vintages dating back to this birthyear release. 

At thirty five years, the label and foil, and the import fill level were in good condition for their age. (We still hold five more bottles of this release and we selected the one with the worst condition soiled label.) The cork was saturated and starting to soften and started to recede into the bottle when pressed with the two pronged cork puller. With care and a more than a bit of experienced skill, it was extracted intact, but proceed with caution opening more bottles. 

The cork was saturated and starting to soften and started to recede into the bottle when pressed with the two pronged cork puller. With care and a more than a bit of experienced skill, it was extracted intact, but proceed with caution opening more bottles. 

This was rated 91 points by Wine Spectator and 90 points by Wine Advocate, back in 2000 and 1997 respectively. .

Wine Advocate wrote, “One of the finest of the lesser known Graves chateaux, La Louviere has been making terrific wine since the late eighties.” 

Wine Spectator wrote’ “ One of the best wines ever from this estate.”

Compared to the Silver Oak, Alexander, this was showing more diminution from aging, with slight rust brownish color hues on the rim, slight clouding, and showing a bit less remaining structure and body.

Slight foggy dark garnet colored, medium bodied, dark berry and cherry fruits were a bit muted but still hanging on, accented still by that classic Graves tobacco, smoke, leather and cassis, with slight remaining grainy texture on the short finish. 

This was still holding on surprisingly well, and approachable, mostly so as part of this horizontal comparison, but it’s time to drink up in the near term. 

RM 87 points at this stage. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?10446

Our great fun with wine such as this gala family celebration continues. 

Château Haut-Bages Libéral with meatloaf

Château Haut-Bages Libéral with meatloaf and artisan cheeses 

Following our BYOB dinner out at Entourage DG Friday, where we opened from our home cellar a twenty year old vintage Grand Cru Classe’ Bordeaux with their signature Meatloaf entree, I pulled another such wine to accompany the take-home leftovers for Sunday evening dinner at home for a mini horizontal tasting of the 2005 Bordeaux vintage. 

We also paired this with some artisan cheeses, “F.R.O.G.” (Figs, Raspberries & Oranges Spiced with Ginger) Preserves, crackers and pitted greek olives. 

This time I opened a Left Bank Pauillac Bordeaux rather than the Right Bank St Emilion we drank Friday. 

Château Haut-Bages Libéral Grand Cru Classe’ 2005

This is from’ Fifth Growth’ producer (as classified in the original Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855),  Château Haut-Bages Libéral that sits on the outskirts of the town of Pauillac (hence the name of the Pauillac Appellation (AOC)), just down the road and adjacent to top producers Pichon Baron, Pichon Lalande and Chateau Latour. 

We stopped at the estate winery and vineyards during our Bordeaux Wine Experience trip in 2019. 

Château Haut-Bages Libéral was established by and is named for the Libéral family who were négociants and vineyard owners in the early 1700’s, and for its position on the Bages plateau, like the similarly named well known neighbor Lynch Bages. 

The estate fell to lower quality and a state of somewhat disrepair during the wars and financial crises of the early 1900s, until the Cruse family (owners of Château Pontet-Canet at the time) purchased the property in 1960. 

The Cruse family engaged in widespread replanting of the vineyards and improved the quality, actually producing Haut Bages Liberal at Château Pontet-Canet for several years.

In 1983, they sold Chateau Haut Bages Liberal to the Taillan group. The Taillan group owns several chateaux in Bordeaux including: Chateau Gruaud Larose in Saint Julien, Chateau Ferrier in Margaux, Chateau Chaste Spleen, Chateau Camensac, Chateau Gressier Grand Poujeaux and Chateau Citran in the Haut Medoc, and Chateau Broustet in Sauternes.

In 2000, the Taillan group renovated and modernized the wine-making facilities at the Pauillac estate.

They sold the estate to the current owners, the Villars-Merlaut family, who continued improvement under the direction and leadership of Claire Villars-Lurton who also serves as winemaker. Along with her husband Gonzague Lurton, Claire Villars-Lurton also owns and manages Chateau Ferriere and Chateau La Gurgue in Margaux and Chateau Domeye in St. Estephe. They also make wine from Bordeaux varietals in Sonoma, California at their Trinite Estates vineyard.

The Château Haut-Bages Libéral estate consists of 75 acres of vineyards planted to 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot. The main vineyard that surrounds the Chateau and winery sits next door to first growth Château Latour and shares the distinctive terroir with parcels of limestone soils, which some say lend elegance and finesse in a commune often known for power. 

Another vineyard sits across the road adjacent highly acclaimed Chateau Pichon Baron, which shares the classic Pauillac terroir consisting of gravel on chalk, clay, and limestone soils, and a third smaller parcel site is further inland. The average age of the vines is close to 35 years of age. 

Haut-Bages Libéral produces roughly 10,000 cases of wine per vintage, including this Grand Vin and their second wine (labeled as either Le Pauillac de Haut-Bages Libéral, La Chapelle de Bages, or La Fleur de Haut-Bages Libéral).

Château Haut-Bages Libéral 2005

At twenty years old, this was holding better than the Château Larmande 2005 we opened Friday, which was beginning to shows signs of aging with a crumbling deteriorating cork and a slight fall-off of the fruit.

The important fill level and cork were both still near perfect, and the fruit aromatics filled the room as soon as it was opened (using an Ahso two pronged cork puller). Vinous wrote in 2021  “The 2005 Haut-Bages Libéral is a very young Pauillac that is just beginning to show the first signals of aromatic opening.” 

There’s still several years left of prime drinking in this vintage release. 

This wine, as I have often written, that in great vintages, “all boats rise with the tide”, such that lesser growth producers, and second and even third wines of top producers, delivers great QPR - quality price ratio, as it sells for a fraction of the price of its ultra-premium highly acclaimed neighbors. 

This release was awarded 92-94 points by Wine Enthusiast, 93 by Wine Spectator, 91 by Vinous, and 90 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. 

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, aromatic, opulent, moderately firmly structured rich round blackberry and black currant fruits with notes of licorice, spice, cigar box and forest floor, with smooth tannins on a big expressive finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=224097

https://www.gc-lurton-estates.com/en/chateau-haut-bages-liberal.html

Ducru Beaucaillou & Bollinger La Grande Année at Joseph’s Steakhouse Iowa City

Ducru Beaucaillou & Bollinger La Grande Année at Joseph’s Steakhouse Iowa City 

We traveled with son Ryan and his family to Iowa City, IA to tour his alma mater, the University of Iowa. 

Ryan gave us and the kids/grandkids a campus and town tour that included the spectacular sports facilities - Kinnick Football stadium, Carver-Hawkeye Basketball Arena and adjacent sports facilities, and the world class Medical School and Hospital Complexes. 

We then toured the academic campus, most notably the Tippe School of Business that Ryan attended, the Memorial Union and the historic campus, old state capital building and adjacent museum. 

We then toured the city center with its ped mall, shops, boutiques, restaurants and of course, campus bars. 

A highlight was dinner at Joseph’s Steakhouse downtown, a short walk from our hotel. 

For our dinner entrees, we ordered steaks, petit filet, ribeye and Waygu Beef sirloins. Each was served with whipped potatoes and asparagus spears with Demi-glaze au jus.  All were high quality delicious cuts of beef, superbly prepared and presented. 

Linda and Michelle both ordered one of the house specialities, Ribeye Filet & Fettuccine - house-made pasta, roasted mushrooms, sauteed kale, roasted garlic, demi-glace, with white truffle butter. This was delicious and perhaps the best choice, most likely my choice for next time if we have the opportunity to visit again. 

We ordered a side order of the Fresh Sourdough Bread and the Brussel Sprouts & Bacon. 

For the special outing festive dinner, I brought BYOB from our home cellar an aged birthyear vintage bottle of Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou 1983 commemorating D-in-law Michelle’s birthyear. 

We also ordered from the extensive Joseph’s Wine List a bottle of vintage Bollinger La Grande Année Brut Champagne 2014. 

https://josephs-steak.com/wine/

Château Ducru Beaucaillou St Julien Bordeaux 1983 

Our visit to the magnificent historic Château Ducru Beaucaillou estate, vineyards, winery and cellars was one of the highlights of our trip to St Julien back in 2018 featured in these pages in this post - A visit to Château Ducru Beaucaillou - (https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/08/ducru-beaucaillou.html). 

We hold an extensive collection of Ducru dating back four decades. We served Château Ducru Beaucaillou at our kid’s, Erin and Ryan’s weddings, from large format Jeroboam and Double Magnum bottles. This bottle is one of the few last remaining in our cellar from this vintage. 

Robert Parker awarded this release 98+ points saying upon release, “this is a blockbuster, fabulous Ducru Beaucaillou that should be at its best a good decade from now and last 40-50 years. The proprietor is not alone in thinking this is the finest Ducru Beaucaillou since the 1961.” This is saying a lot given the 1982 vintage was considered one of the best of the century for the region. 

Julien Graves of Boutellier Wines awarded this release 95 points. This release was awarded 94 points by reviewer John Gilman and was considered one of the finest wines of the vintage on either bank of the Gironde and ‘still has several decades of fine drinking ahead of it, now entering its peak period”. 

Amazingly, at 42 years, the fill level was customary lower neck (shown left), the label and foil were pristine, and the cork, while intact and complete, was starting to soften and pulled apart at the bottom of the grip of my Ahso two pronged cork puller, as the extended length cork was longer than the prongs of the implement. 

Upon opening, we decanted this before serving. 

Had we allowed the server to extract the cork using typical means of a corkscrew, it wouldn’t most assuredly disintegrated, or at least pulled apart. She was happy and intrigued to watch me use my ahso, with which I was able to remove the cork gracefully, including the separated tip. She had never seen such a device, nor did the restaurant have one for such occasions. 

Drinking very nicely, still within its drinking window, but likely starting to diminish here forward. 

Slightly opaque garnet colored, medium full bodied, classic St Julien characteristics of structured, tannin laced backbone, yet, pure, elegant and polished, complex and nicely balanced, bright dark berry and black cherry and currant fruits with notes of tobacco, dried roses, wet rock and gravel with hints of creosote and cassis, turning to polished tannins on the smooth, soft, lingering finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2922

https://chateau-ducru-beaucaillou.com/en

Bollinger, La Grande Année, Brut, Champagne, FR, 2014

This is one of Ryan’s favorite producers/labels. Champagne Bollinger produce this special limited release La Grande Année label only in exceptional harvest years, made only from Grand and Premier cru grapes.

La Grande Année is “the embodiment of the carefully preserved traditional expertise of Champagne Bollinger, vinified in oak barrels, sealed with natural cork and riddled by hand, then aged patiently for 10 years in Bollinger’s chalky cellars”.

La Grande Année 2014 is a blend  sourced from 19 crus (vineyards), mostly in Aÿ and Verzenay, for the 61% Pinot Noir, and Chouilly and Oiry for the 39% Chardonnay.

We toured the region and the Bollinger vineyards with son Alec during our Champagne Wine Experience back in 2006 - ((https://mcnees.org/travelsite/trips/champagne/champagne.htm), prior to publishing these pages).

To remove the sediment deposit that forms over the years of aging, they invented the very unique method of riddling: gently and gradually moving the bottle to progressively remove the sediment and guide it into the neck of the bottle, to be disgorged during the bottling process. 

This release was awarded 98 points by Antonio Galloni, 97 points by Alison Napjus and 96 points by Richard Juhlin. 

Winemaker’s tasting notes on this release - “Tinted with golden glints that reflect the wine’s maturity and Bollinger vinification.’ 

“A precise and fruity nose with a slight scent of sea-air. Aromas of cherry and lemon mingle with quince and bergamot. Then notes of hazelnut and almond, peach and mirabelle plum complete this wine’s range of aromas.’

“The initial sensation is a fine and intense effervescence, followed by a wonderful vinosity, and then balanced with delicate acidity. Its very fine texture and sea-air finish bring excellent length on the palate, accompanied by a delicate minerality and the complex flavours of orchard fruit and citrus. This wine unfurls gradually, revealing its full potential and intensity.”

RM 96 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4254330

https://www.champagne-bollinger.com/en/the-collection/grande-annee/

For dessert we enjoyed the Joseph’s CRÈME BRÛLÉE and BREAD PUDDING.

https://josephs-steak.com/