Château Haut-Bages Libéral with meatloaf

Château Haut-Bages Libéral with meatloaf and artisan cheeses 

Following our BYOB dinner out at Entourage DG Friday, where we opened from our home cellar a twenty year old vintage Grand Cru Classe’ Bordeaux with their signature Meatloaf entree, I pulled another such wine to accompany the take-home leftovers for Sunday evening dinner at home for a mini horizontal tasting of the 2005 Bordeaux vintage. 

We also paired this with some artisan cheeses, “F.R.O.G.” (Figs, Raspberries & Oranges Spiced with Ginger) Preserves, crackers and pitted greek olives. 

This time I opened a Left Bank Pauillac Bordeaux rather than the Right Bank St Emilion we drank Friday. 

Château Haut-Bages Libéral Grand Cru Classe’ 2005

This is from’ Fifth Growth’ producer (as classified in the original Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855),  Château Haut-Bages Libéral that sits on the outskirts of the town of Pauillac (hence the name of the Pauillac Appellation (AOC)), just down the road and adjacent to top producers Pichon Baron, Pichon Lalande and Chateau Latour. 

We stopped at the estate winery and vineyards during our Bordeaux Wine Experience trip in 2019. 

Château Haut-Bages Libéral was established by and is named for the Libéral family who were négociants and vineyard owners in the early 1700’s, and for its position on the Bages plateau, like the similarly named well known neighbor Lynch Bages. 

The estate fell to lower quality and a state of somewhat disrepair during the wars and financial crises of the early 1900s, until the Cruse family (owners of Château Pontet-Canet at the time) purchased the property in 1960. 

The Cruse family engaged in widespread replanting of the vineyards and improved the quality, actually producing Haut Bages Liberal at Château Pontet-Canet for several years.

In 1983, they sold Chateau Haut Bages Liberal to the Taillan group. The Taillan group owns several chateaux in Bordeaux including: Chateau Gruaud Larose in Saint Julien, Chateau Ferrier in Margaux, Chateau Chaste Spleen, Chateau Camensac, Chateau Gressier Grand Poujeaux and Chateau Citran in the Haut Medoc, and Chateau Broustet in Sauternes.

In 2000, the Taillan group renovated and modernized the wine-making facilities at the Pauillac estate.

They sold the estate to the current owners, the Villars-Merlaut family, who continued improvement under the direction and leadership of Claire Villars-Lurton who also serves as winemaker. Along with her husband Gonzague Lurton, Claire Villars-Lurton also owns and manages Chateau Ferriere and Chateau La Gurgue in Margaux and Chateau Domeye in St. Estephe. They also make wine from Bordeaux varietals in Sonoma, California at their Trinite Estates vineyard.

The Château Haut-Bages Libéral estate consists of 75 acres of vineyards planted to 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot. The main vineyard that surrounds the Chateau and winery sits next door to first growth Château Latour and shares the distinctive terroir with parcels of limestone soils, which some say lend elegance and finesse in a commune often known for power. 

Another vineyard sits across the road adjacent highly acclaimed Chateau Pichon Baron, which shares the classic Pauillac terroir consisting of gravel on chalk, clay, and limestone soils, and a third smaller parcel site is further inland. The average age of the vines is close to 35 years of age. 

Haut-Bages Libéral produces roughly 10,000 cases of wine per vintage, including this Grand Vin and their second wine (labeled as either Le Pauillac de Haut-Bages Libéral, La Chapelle de Bages, or La Fleur de Haut-Bages Libéral).

Château Haut-Bages Libéral 2005

At twenty years old, this was holding better than the Château Larmande 2005 we opened Friday, which was beginning to shows signs of aging with a crumbling deteriorating cork and a slight fall-off of the fruit.

The important fill level and cork were both still near perfect, and the fruit aromatics filled the room as soon as it was opened (using an Ahso two pronged cork puller). Vinous wrote in 2021  “The 2005 Haut-Bages Libéral is a very young Pauillac that is just beginning to show the first signals of aromatic opening.” 

There’s still several years left of prime drinking in this vintage release. 

This wine, as I have often written, that in great vintages, “all boats rise with the tide”, such that lesser growth producers, and second and even third wines of top producers, delivers great QPR - quality price ratio, as it sells for a fraction of the price of its ultra-premium highly acclaimed neighbors. 

This release was awarded 92-94 points by Wine Enthusiast, 93 by Wine Spectator, 91 by Vinous, and 90 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. 

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, aromatic, opulent, moderately firmly structured rich round blackberry and black currant fruits with notes of licorice, spice, cigar box and forest floor, with smooth tannins on a big expressive finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=224097

https://www.gc-lurton-estates.com/en/chateau-haut-bages-liberal.html

Ducru Beaucaillou & Bollinger La Grande Année at Joseph’s Steakhouse Iowa City

Ducru Beaucaillou & Bollinger La Grande Année at Joseph’s Steakhouse Iowa City 

We traveled with son Ryan and his family to Iowa City, IA to tour his alma mater, the University of Iowa. 

Ryan gave us and the kids/grandkids a campus and town tour that included the spectacular sports facilities - Kinnick Football stadium, Carver-Hawkeye Basketball Arena and adjacent sports facilities, and the world class Medical School and Hospital Complexes. 

We then toured the academic campus, most notably the Tippe School of Business that Ryan attended, the Memorial Union and the historic campus, old state capital building and adjacent museum. 

We then toured the city center with its ped mall, shops, boutiques, restaurants and of course, campus bars. 

A highlight was dinner at Joseph’s Steakhouse downtown, a short walk from our hotel. 

For our dinner entrees, we ordered steaks, petit filet, ribeye and Waygu Beef sirloins. Each was served with whipped potatoes and asparagus spears with Demi-glaze au jus.  All were high quality delicious cuts of beef, superbly prepared and presented. 

Linda and Michelle both ordered one of the house specialities, Ribeye Filet & Fettuccine - house-made pasta, roasted mushrooms, sauteed kale, roasted garlic, demi-glace, with white truffle butter. This was delicious and perhaps the best choice, most likely my choice for next time if we have the opportunity to visit again. 

We ordered a side order of the Fresh Sourdough Bread and the Brussel Sprouts & Bacon. 

For the special outing festive dinner, I brought BYOB from our home cellar an aged birthyear vintage bottle of Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou 1983 commemorating D-in-law Michelle’s birthyear. 

We also ordered from the extensive Joseph’s Wine List a bottle of vintage Bollinger La Grande Année Brut Champagne 2014. 

https://josephs-steak.com/wine/

Château Ducru Beaucaillou St Julien Bordeaux 1983 

Our visit to the magnificent historic Château Ducru Beaucaillou estate, vineyards, winery and cellars was one of the highlights of our trip to St Julien back in 2018 featured in these pages in this post - A visit to Château Ducru Beaucaillou - (https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/08/ducru-beaucaillou.html). 

We hold an extensive collection of Ducru dating back four decades. We served Château Ducru Beaucaillou at our kid’s, Erin and Ryan’s weddings, from large format Jeroboam and Double Magnum bottles. This bottle is one of the few last remaining in our cellar from this vintage. 

Robert Parker awarded this release 98+ points saying upon release, “this is a blockbuster, fabulous Ducru Beaucaillou that should be at its best a good decade from now and last 40-50 years. The proprietor is not alone in thinking this is the finest Ducru Beaucaillou since the 1961.” This is saying a lot given the 1982 vintage was considered one of the best of the century for the region. 

Julien Graves of Boutellier Wines awarded this release 95 points. This release was awarded 94 points by reviewer John Gilman and was considered one of the finest wines of the vintage on either bank of the Gironde and ‘still has several decades of fine drinking ahead of it, now entering its peak period”. 

Amazingly, at 42 years, the fill level was customary lower neck (shown left), the label and foil were pristine, and the cork, while intact and complete, was starting to soften and pulled apart at the bottom of the grip of my Ahso two pronged cork puller, as the extended length cork was longer than the prongs of the implement. 

Upon opening, we decanted this before serving. 

Had we allowed the server to extract the cork using typical means of a corkscrew, it wouldn’t most assuredly disintegrated, or at least pulled apart. She was happy and intrigued to watch me use my ahso, with which I was able to remove the cork gracefully, including the separated tip. She had never seen such a device, nor did the restaurant have one for such occasions. 

Drinking very nicely, still within its drinking window, but likely starting to diminish here forward. 

Slightly opaque garnet colored, medium full bodied, classic St Julien characteristics of structured, tannin laced backbone, yet, pure, elegant and polished, complex and nicely balanced, bright dark berry and black cherry and currant fruits with notes of tobacco, dried roses, wet rock and gravel with hints of creosote and cassis, turning to polished tannins on the smooth, soft, lingering finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2922

https://chateau-ducru-beaucaillou.com/en

Bollinger, La Grande Année, Brut, Champagne, FR, 2014

This is one of Ryan’s favorite producers/labels. Champagne Bollinger produce this special limited release La Grande Année label only in exceptional harvest years, made only from Grand and Premier cru grapes.

La Grande Année is “the embodiment of the carefully preserved traditional expertise of Champagne Bollinger, vinified in oak barrels, sealed with natural cork and riddled by hand, then aged patiently for 10 years in Bollinger’s chalky cellars”.

La Grande Année 2014 is a blend  sourced from 19 crus (vineyards), mostly in Aÿ and Verzenay, for the 61% Pinot Noir, and Chouilly and Oiry for the 39% Chardonnay.

We toured the region and the Bollinger vineyards with son Alec during our Champagne Wine Experience back in 2006 - ((https://mcnees.org/travelsite/trips/champagne/champagne.htm), prior to publishing these pages).

To remove the sediment deposit that forms over the years of aging, they invented the very unique method of riddling: gently and gradually moving the bottle to progressively remove the sediment and guide it into the neck of the bottle, to be disgorged during the bottling process. 

This release was awarded 98 points by Antonio Galloni, 97 points by Alison Napjus and 96 points by Richard Juhlin. 

Winemaker’s tasting notes on this release - “Tinted with golden glints that reflect the wine’s maturity and Bollinger vinification.’ 

“A precise and fruity nose with a slight scent of sea-air. Aromas of cherry and lemon mingle with quince and bergamot. Then notes of hazelnut and almond, peach and mirabelle plum complete this wine’s range of aromas.’

“The initial sensation is a fine and intense effervescence, followed by a wonderful vinosity, and then balanced with delicate acidity. Its very fine texture and sea-air finish bring excellent length on the palate, accompanied by a delicate minerality and the complex flavours of orchard fruit and citrus. This wine unfurls gradually, revealing its full potential and intensity.”

RM 96 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4254330

https://www.champagne-bollinger.com/en/the-collection/grande-annee/

For dessert we enjoyed the Joseph’s CRÈME BRÛLÉE and BREAD PUDDING.

https://josephs-steak.com/

Ravello Restaurant Montgomery

Ravello Restaurant Montgomery 

Returning home from our Destin, Florida vacation getaway we stopped in Montgomery, AL for dinner. What a pleasant surprise to discover the history and architecture of Alabama’s state capitol city, and the Capital campus and grounds, federal building (s), and parks and monuments, testaments to the historic old south slave markets and the civil rights movement. It is definitely worth a return trip as a destination in it’s own right to explore further! 

We were drawn to Montgomery to dine at Ravello Restaurant with its fine dining offering coastal Italian cuisine based on the rich culinary heritage of the Italian Amalfi Coast, with fresh seafood, pastas and meats, and Wine Spectator Award of Excellence wine list.

Ravello’s magnificent multi-story dining room boasts historic architecture of a former bank. The site was a City Fed restoration project, integrating three buildings from 1926, which now house Ravello its rooftop Bar Attico and private event spaces, in the heart of downtown Montgomery, blocks from the government district.

For a starter we shared the Roasted Beet Salad with Arugula, candied blood orange, prosciutto, goat cheese and blood orarange vinaigrette. 

Linda ordered the Seared Gulf Red Snapper with Salsa Verde, and a side of the Brussels Sprouts which were extraordinary and a highlight of the meal.

For my dinner I had the Filet of Beef with black garlic butter and a side of Polenta. 

The Ravello wine list/cellar offers 265 different wines from a collection of 2200 bottles. The twelve page Ravello wine list holds a.Wine Spectator Awarded with two pages of WBTG - Wines By The Glass, a page of Champagne and Sparkling wines, a page of Whites, three pages of Reds, plus a page of Reserve Wines, a page of Limited and Rare Wines, and a page of La Sirena wines by legendary winemaker Heidi Barrett. 

Some of the highlights or interesting labels are three vintages of TESSERON ESTATE "PYM-RAE" MT. VEEDER RED BLEND at $750 each, and culminating in a DOMAINE DE LE ROMANEE-CONTI “ECHEZEAUX” GRAND CRU 2020 for $1800. Pages of the wine list are shown below:

Repeating what I have often said about such wine lists, that “I can’t afford to drink my own cellar”, two wines that we drank from our cellar recently were offered, notably, Chateau Gruaud Larose 2005 (Gruaud Larose BYOB at Entourage DG) for $575, and Chateau Palmer (Family Christmas Celebration Dinner) 2011 for $950. 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2025/04/gruaud-larose-byob-at-entourage-dg.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2024/12/family-christmas-celebration-and-wine.html

That said, it just so happened I had in the car a vintage Bordeaux that I was transporting from our Destin remote wine cellar back home, so I pulled it for a BYOB wine accompaniment with our dinner. Based on the above calibrations, it would’ve carried a wine list price of around $600. (This bottle was brought by fellow ‘Pour Boy’ wine buddy Lyle to Destin for a recent visit and we didn’t get to it during our multiple dinners. We’ll enjoy a replacement together from our home cellar at an upcoming dinner when back in Chicago.) 

Château Smith Haut Lafitte Pessac-Léognan Grand Cru Classe’ Bordeaux 2012 

The Château Smith Haut Lafitte estate lies about 30 km south of the City of Bordeaux, 4 km outside the village of Léognan. 

The historic estate dates back to the 14th century when Verrier Du Bosq signed the first recorded deeds for a few vine rows. George Smith, a Scottish wine merchant, acquired the property in the mid-18th century and named it after himself.

The Fleurs-de-lis emblem logo on the label represents the three branches for George Smith’s three children, and representing the Verrier du Bosq family who founded the vineyard, a crescent emblematic of the Port of Bordeaux: the “Port of the Moon”. The port became an important wine export shipping center sending regional wines to England and the Netherlands and beyond.

In 1842, the estate was acquired by Lodi Martin Duffour-Dubergier, Mayor of Bordeaux, and signer of the official 1855 classification, who elevated Smith Haut Lafitte wines to Grand Cru Exceptional status.

In the early 20th century, the négociant firm Eschenauer, headed by the famous “Uncle Louis” Eschenauer, sold Smith Haut Lafitte wines and ended up buying the château in 1958.

In 1990, the estate was acquired by current owners, Daniel and Florence Cathiard, acquired with the firm intention of continuing its tradition of excellence, “to do everything possible to make each vintage of red and white wine worthy of our magnificent terroir.” 

The estate terroir boasts the classic Gravels « Graves Gunziennes » forcing the vines to dig more than 6 meters deep and the grapes benefit from the stones’ mirror effect from the sun to aid in optimal ripening. The vines average age is 38 years. 

The Cathiards Aspent spent three years renovating the estate and now live there in the 18th century chartreuse dating from George Smith’s time. Grounds of forests, hedges, and hives surround the 87 hectares of the single block vineyard.

This 2012 release is 55 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 40 % Merlot, 4 % Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot.
It was aged 18 months on lees in French oak barrels (60 % new) made at the Château onsite cooperage, with one racking only, and then ageing adjusted for each wine.

Comments by Fabien Teitgen, Technical Director - “Château Smith Haut Lafitte red 2012 offers a beautiful dark bright red colour with blue hue. The already expressive nose reveals very fresh notes of red fruits (strawberry, cherry) with a hint of smoke. Once aerated, the nose complexity appears with delicate notes of spices (star anise, liquorice, cinnamon), of red fruits as well as beautiful and elegant flower notes. Then the nose stretches out with terroir aromas of flint stone and fireplace. The attack in mouth is fresh and balanced with a fleshy and unctuous texture. The wine is a subtle balance between maturity and freshness: the maturity from the concentration, the impressive unctuosity and sugarity and the beautiful structure of long and classy tannins; the freshness from the tension, the dynamism and the aroma sparkle. The aromatic is very close to that of the nose, characterised by the freshness with crunchy red fruits, spices notes of liquorice, dry herbs, fireplace and flint stone.”

With a suggested drinking window of 2017 - 2027, this is no doubt at its apex for optimal consumption, but will certainly continue to hold for another decade or more.

This release was rated 95 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, and a concensus 94 points by Decanter, James Suckling, Vinous, Wine Enthusiast (*Cellar Selection*) and Wine Spectator. 

Describing the 2012 release Decanter wrote, “ By this point, more than 20 years of intelligent investment by owners Daniel and Florence Cathiard had paid off.” Vinous wrote “ This is another classy Pessac-Léognan and a wonderful example from Pessac-Léognan that might well be leading the pack at this stage.”

This is as good as and as memorable Smith Haut Lafitte I recall ever having tasted, except perhaps their monumental 100 point release a few years ago. 

We enjoy tasting each new release of this label and meeting the producer as regular participants in each year’s UGCB release tour tasting in Chicago each year, (Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB)),  

Dark garnet-purple colored, medium to full-bodied, perfectly balanced, complex, rich and pure nicely integrated blackberry and hints of blueberry fruits with notes of tobacco, chocolate, coffee, spice, black tea and tar with smooth polished velvety plush tannins and a long, long finish. 

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1601102

https://www.smith-haut-lafitte.com/en/home/

https://www.smith-haut-lafitte.com/en/our-wines/

https://twitter.com/ChateauSHL

https://www.ravellomgm.com/

https://www.ravellomgm.com/wine

https://www.southernliving.com/montgomery-alabama-7504866#toc-what-to-do-in-montgomery-alabama

St Emilion Grand Cru duo w/ Beef Tenderloin

St Emilion Grand Cru duo w/ Beef Tenderloin and medley of whites/blush with grilled scallops  

We host long time dear friends Bob & Gloria, visiting us from Delray Beach, at our vacation home in Destin, FL. 

We grilled out beef tenderloin, served with haricot verts and baked potatoes, and grilled seared scallops on buttered herb toast points. 

With the Caesar salad, grilled scallops and a selection of artisan cheeses, we enjoyed a medley of easy drinking casual sipping white wines and a blush. 

La Crema Sonoma Chardonnay 2022

Lohr Riverstone Vineyard Chardonnay 2023

Carpenter Creek Cellars Steuben Indiana Rose’ NV

Having fun with and paying tribute to Bob’s and our Hoosier heritage, I opened this Indiana wine from an Indiana producer composed of Indiana grapes.

This is from Carpenter Creek Cellars, a farm winery housed in a quaint picturesque renovated 1919 barn midway between Chicago and Lafayette, IN. 

We tasted, then acquired this label at the producer winery off I-65 in northern Indiana during one of several visits over recent years. I featured Carpenter Creek cellars, the owners and their wines in this and other blogposts - https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/11/carpenter-creek-cellars-indiana.html  

During our visit at that time, we tasted a half dozen of their wines and ended up buying several labels. This is a bit remarkable as they exceeded my expectations for Indiana produced wines such that we brought home nearly a case. This is a testament to the craft and handiwork of partner proprietors Ed Courtright who wanted to grow grapes in northern Indiana to supply wineries in the area, and winemaker Randy Rottler, who had dreams of starting a small winery.

This label is 100% Steuben, a Hybrid wine grape that is primarily grown in the northeastern US, particularly in the wine regions of New York State, Pennsylvania and Michigan, as well as Indiana and Ohio. The variety is particularly cold-hardy, vigorous and productive as well as being quite disease-resistant. It is known for its vibrant red color and is often used to produce rosé wines such as this. 

Steuben grapes have a distinct flavor profile, with notes of strawberry, cherry, and a hint of spice. The wine made from Steuben grapes is typically medium-bodied, with a refreshing acidity and a slightly sweet finish. 

This was much better two days later with a selection of artisan cheeses and crackers. 

Winemaker’s notes - A gentle off dry blush wine which exhibits raspberry and strawberry notes with a citrus finish.

Blood orange colored, light bodied, moderately sweet/dry, strawberry and raspberry notes with hints of tea leaves and tangy cinnamon spice. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?5398089

Turning to the main course delicious grilled tenderloin of beef, Bob brought from home a St Emilion Grand Cru Classe’ so I opened from our modest remote cellar a like AOC and vintage, for a mini-horizontal comparison tasting. 

Chateau Monbousquet St Emilion Grand Cru 2020 

The Chateau Monbousquet St. Emilion estate can trace its history all the way back to 1540 when it belonged to François de Lescours, before it became the property of the well-established De Carles family where it remained for almost 150 years. The beautiful, classically styled chateau was built in 1648 by Jacques de Geres and today, is the private home of Gerard Perse and Chantal Perse along with the rest of the Perse family.

At the close of World War II, the Querre family purchased Chateau Monbousquet and set upon improving the quality of the wines. In 1993, they sold the estate to Gerard Perse and Chantal Perse for $9 million. Chateau Monbousquet was the first vineyard purchase by Gerard Perse, who later went on to acquire several more properties. 

The first vintage of Chateau Monbousquet for Gerard Perse was the difficult 1997 which produced only a few barrels or somewhere between 300 and 600 bottles out of the entire harvest.

Shortly after Gerard Perse obtained Chateau Monbousquet, he began renovating the estate completely rebuilding the winemaking facilities and cellars and constructing an entirely new barrel-aging cellar.

The 32 hectare Monbousquet Saint Emilion vineyards are divided into three sections with more sand and clay in the north, and more gravel with sand in the south, and are not considered among the best in St. Emilion. They average 40 years of age and are planted to 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Some were replanted to increase the proportion of Cabernet Franc over Merlot to better match the varieties to their most appropriate soils.

Perse improved the quality of the wines, also partly by intentionally striving for lower yields thereby increasing their concentration.

In 2013, motivated by French tax laws, Gerard Perse sold a portion of Chateau Monbousquet to a large, anonymous, French, pension fund. This allowed his daughter Angelique and her husband, Henrique Da Costa to eventually take over all the Perse-owned wineries which by this time included Chateau Pavie, Chateau Bellevue Mondotte, and Chateau Pavie Decease. as well as their estates in the Cotes de Castillon appellation.

This 2020 Monbousquet is a blend of 70% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, and was aged in French oak barriques, 50% of which are new.

This release was rated 96 points by Jeb Dunnuck, 95 by James Suckling and Wine Spectator, and 91-93 by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, and 92 by Decanter and Wine Independent.

This is packaged in a heavier, slightly larger than normal Bordeaux bottle, more akin to more expensive ultra-premium wines. 

Deep inky purple-black color, full bodied, complex but nicely balanced, concentrated bright vibrant blackberry, plum and hints of black cherry fruits with notes of cassis, chocolate, tobacco, charcoal and herbs, with plush tannins on a fragrant earthy finish. 

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3989361

Chateau Clos Junet St Emilion Grand Cru 2020

 

We tasted and acquired this wine at the Tour of Bordeaux Wine Dinner at The Wine World Wine Bar here in Destin last fall, one of the carefully selected featured wines paired with a dinner course. The dinner’s food and wine pairings were prepared in collaboration with and was currated by guest speaker Cassidy Stiebing, Regional Sales Director and Bordeaux expert from Twins, a French Bordeaux Negociant and US Distributor for the wines.

Chateau  Clos Junet, located just west of the picturesque village of Saint Emilion, is owned and managed by Patrick Junet today. The family-owned and managed property has belonged to the Junet family for more than 100 years, having purchased the estate back in 1890, it has remained in the hands of Junet family since.

The diminutive 3-hectare, Clos Junet estate vineyard is planted to 65% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Malbec. They have old vines with the oldest being more than 80 years of age. The terroir is typical St Emilion limestone, chalk, sand, and clay soils.

Clearly, a more modest wine than the bigger, bolder and more present Chateau Monbousquet, this provided an interesting comparison between two wines from the same appellation and vintage. A more discerning taster, might also pick up the subtle difference in the blend with the Malbec as opposed to the Cabernet Sauvignon.

This is a blend of 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc and 10% Malbec. 

This release was ted 92 points by James Suckling and 91 Points by Wine Advocate. 

Bright ruby colored, medium bodied, fruity, round bright vibrant tangy red and black plum and berry fruits with notes of floral, clove spice and sweet tobacco and hints of oak on the moderate tannins laced finish. 

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3989361

After dinner we were treated to sumptuous tira misu and fresh berries. 

Aged vintage wines for family birthday dinner

Aged vintage wines for family birthday dinner 

The family gathered at our house for a gala celebration dinner for my upcoming birthday. 

We grilled out cowboy tomahawk ribeye steaks and bbq baby back ribs, and scallops, accompanied by salad, baked beans, mashed potatoes, grilled asparagus and Mac-n-cheese (for the kids). 

The cooks, (above) Linda, master chef, and Ryan, griller and carver - naturally absent, missing from the family photo above, (as is Reid who was playing ball out in the yard with friends). 

Grilled scallops on herb buttered toast points 

For a wine accompaniment I pulled from the cellar a Sauvignon Blanc and a Chardonnay for the whites and two aged vintage big reds wines for the beef and ribs, and an aged vintage dessert wine (also a birthyear vintage). 

I also selected several younger Right Bank Bordeaux varietal wines, in the event we went through the open bottles, or needed a back-up if the first choice wines were not up to par, due to age or other conditions.  Almost regrettably, we didn’t open those wines which I was looking forward to trying, hence they’ll be available for another day. 

LaJota Napa Valley Howell Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon 1990

La Jota Vineyards in Napa Valley date back to 1888 when winemaking pioneer W.S. Keyes planted some of the first vines on Howell Mountain. Ten years later his contemporary, Fredrick Hess, built a stone winery and established La Jota Vineyard Co., named for its location on the Mexican parcel Rancho La Jota. 

Both men won medals for their Howell Mountain wines in the Paris Exposition of 1900.

La Jota Vineyard Co. continues today as a boutique producer crafting small-production mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Chardonnay, sourced from the winery’s estate and from nearby W.S. Keyes Vineyard.

Today, Howell Mountain is known for Cabernet Sauvignon in Napa’s rugged northeastern hills with its volcanic ash soils deposited millenia ago by Mount Konocti. Howell Mountain itself is a weathered volcanic "knob" with two distinct soils: crumbly white decomposed volcanic ash known as rhyolitic tuff and red, iron-laden soils of clay and volcanic rock.

La Jota estate vines develop good root systems in these well-draining, porous, nutrient-lean soils, allowing them to self-regulate the amount of water they take in. And the nutrient lean soils force the vines to struggle to survive, forcing their energy to the fruit. The result is tiny berries and clusters with very high flavor concentration.

Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon was made famous by legendary wine maker Randy Dunn, who gained fame at Caymus in the 1970s and 1980s. Turning his attention to Howell Mountain, it became officially recognized as the first sub-region of Napa Valley in 1983. We visited the Dunn Vineyards estate up at Angwin on Howell Mountain during our Napa Valley Howell Mountain Wine Experience back in 2008. We were hosted by Kristina Dunn that day but we had the privilege to meet winemaker, producer, patriarch and Napa Valley pioneer Randy Dunn.

The Howell Mountain AVA includes 1,000 acres of vineyards interspersed by forestlands at the north end of the Vaca Mountain range that forms the eastern wall or Napa Valley. With vineyards at 1,400 to 2,000 feet in elevation, they sit above the fog line. The days on Howell Mountain remain cooler than those in the heart of the valley, giving the grapes a bit more time on the vine.

The soils, shallow and infertile with good drainage, are volcanic ash and red clay and produce highly concentrated berries with thick skins. The resulting wines are full of structure and potential to age.

We tasted the recent release of La Jota Howel Mtn Cabernet at the SoWal (Southwest Walton Beaches) Wine Festival in Destin, (FL) last year was one of the highlights of that event and we acquired their current release of this label at that time - Pour Boys gather for SoWal Wine Festival weekend in Destin.

Notably, LaJota was acquired by and is now part of the vast portfolio of Jackson Family Wines, who amassed a vast Billion dollar wine empire that now comprises some of the most storied labels, such as this. It was being presented by Jackson Wines at the SoWal festival. 

I wrote about Jess Jackson and the building of the family wine empire in earlier blogposts in these pages - most recently last month - La Crema Coastal Chardonnay with Homemade Chicken Piccata, and earlier, Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2018.

And, we’ve featured other vintages of this label in other notable tastings -Boy's Night Out Cellar Tours Wine Tasting, and Dad's Day Father Son Tasting Birthyear Wines.

Today, La Jota’s winemaker is Chris Carpenter, a graduate from the University of Illinois with a BS in biology, who also earned an MBA in Chicago before working various roles in the food and beverages industry. During those years in Chicago he developed a love of food and wine, and a network of colleagues in the business.

After a visit to Napa Valley in 1993, he decided to pursue a career in wine and went on to earn a Masters in Viticulture and Enology from the University of California, Davis. 

In 1998 he found himself working as the Assistant Winemaker at Cardinale where he learned making wines from mountain terroir. In 2005 he became the Winemaker for La Jota.

Tonight we opened this vintage 1990 release,  a birthyear vintage wine of son Alec, celebrating my birthday, and he and wife Vivianna expecting (grand) baby number three. 

This release was rated 92 points by Robert Parker back in 1993, when he wrote, this wine should “reach its apogee by the turn of the century and last 20 or more years”. 

At 35 years, it has held up remarkably well, despite the tattered label, the fill level and cork were still in great condition, considering their age. 

The wine showed no signs of diminution from aging and still well within its drinking window, albeit not likely to continue aging beyond a few more years. 

Winemaker Notes - “Where rivers, creeks and property lines usually define an AVA, the Howell Mountain boundaries are defined by a 1,400 foot elevation contour line as the lowest point and the highest vineyards at 2,400 feet above sea level. The vines share the mountain with pines, oaks, madrone and the easternmost stand of the coastal redwoods.”

Opaque garnet/purple colored, medium to full bodied, rich, round concentrated black berry and black currant fruits with notes of minerals, cassis, and classic Howell Mtn spices, with firm but approachable tannins on the lingering, what Wine Spectator calls “fleshy” finish.  

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?771991

https://www.lajotavineyardco.com/

Château du Domaine de l'Eglise Pomerol 1989

Château du Domaine de l'Eglise is a renowned producer of Right Bank Bordeaux wine, located in the commune of Pomerol, in the shadow of the church tower, and less than two kilometres, within walking distance, of notable producers Château Clinet (300m) and Château Petrus (900m). 

The Pomerol AOC (Appellation Originale Controllee) is located in the Libourne region on the Right Bank of the Dordogne River, just upstream from its confluence with the Isle. The town of Libourne, has a port that was used for exporting wines as far back as 1269. 

In the 1900s, winegrowers got together and made joint purchases. Working together, they set up a winegrowers’ and farmers’ union to improve their wine and protect the Pomerol appellation. The AOC area was defined in 1928, recognised in 1936 and revised in 2011.

Today, the Pomerol AOC is renowned for its great wines such as Pétrus, Trotanoy, Clinet, Petit Village and Gazin. The Pomerol appellation comprises around 800 hectares with 140 producers with an average of 6 hectares, producing 31,000 hectolitres of red wine a year.

The origins of the Château du Domaine de l’Église vineyard can be traced back to 1589, at the beginning of the reign of the Good King Henri (Henri IV). The estate was seized by authorities during the French Revolution and in 1793 it was sold to the Bertin family though a national property sale.

In 1893, the Bertin family produced ten barrels of wine, rising to twenty barrels by 1949. Simon Landard, Laure Bertin’s nephew, ran the estate a few years later. The estate was acquired in 1973 by Émile Castéja, 

Château du Domaine de l’Eglise was owned by Philippe Castéja and his sister, Chantal Castéja Prében-Hansen. Philippe ran the estate and improved the quality of the wine over the years. The wine from Château du Domaine de l’Eglise is considered a Grand Vin. Today the estate is run by the firm of Borie-Manoux.

The 7-hectare vineyard of Château du Domaine de l’Église is mainly planted with Merlot (95%), with a touch of Cabernet Franc (5%). The vines have an average age of 40 years.  The vineyard is situated on a plateau with classic Pomerol terroir, characterized by gravelly soil and clay subsoil, which imparts a distinct minerality to the wine. 

At thirty six years, this wine was holding up remarkably well and still very much in its drinking window, but certainly not likely to improve with any further aging, and best to be consumed in the next couple years. The label and foil and most importantly the fill level was top of neck and the cork was still intact despite being partly saturated, it was holding its integrity. It was carefully extracted using an ‘Ahso’ two pronged cork puller (shown). It likely would have collapsed in the bottle if pressed by a traditional cork screw. I always use this method, especially with older wines (except for synthetic corks).  

This release was awarded 90 points by Wine Advocate in 1993. 

This was even better the following day, being more balanced and settled, after decades of aging in the cellar.

Dark blackish garnet colored, medium to full bodied, deep rich round ripe balanced blackberry, cherry and plum fruits with herbs and vibrant spice notes with soft fine tannins on a long sensuous finish. 

RM 90 points, better, 91 points the following day. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?186048

https://www.domainedeleglise.com/en/

We also opened a birthyear vintage aged sweet dessert wine which paired perfectly with the scallops as well as the salad and later, the dessert. I wrote about this in a follow on blogpost - Clos Fontindoule Monbazillac Dessert Wine.

 https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2025/05/clos-fontindoule-monbazillac-1982-as.html

Easter Celebration Family Dinner Vintage Bordeaux & Beef Tenderloin

Easter Celebration Family Dinner Vintage Bordeaux & Beef Tenderloin

We hosted the family for a gala Easter Celebration dinner and (grand) kids Easter egg hunt. 

For diner we grilled a complete beef tenderloin served roasted potatoes, broccoli casserole and creative and imaginative corn nibblets preparation, slices of the kernel sections off the corn cob roasted, that we discovered at Stacy’s beachfront Restaurant in Crystal Beach during our recent trip to Destin, FL. 

For a wine accompaniment with dinner I pulled from the cellar a flight of Bordeaux varietals red blend wines anchored by a magnum of Erin’s birthyear Château Léoville-Barton St Julien Bordeaux 1981.

Château Léoville-Barton Grand Cru Classé Saint-Julien Bordeaux 1981

It is always a privilege and pleasure to meet the always friendly and delightful Lilian Barton-Sartorius from Château Léoville-Barton at the annual tasting of the UGCB (Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB)). She is a regular visitor each year at the annual release tour visit to Chicago, unveiling/showcasing their most recent vintage release wines.

Lilian Barton-Sartorius - Château
Leoville and Langoa Barton

The Union is the association of 130 members of the top premier estates from the most prestigious Bordeaux appellations.

Ch. Léoville Barton is a Second Growth Saint-Julien estate, one of the three famous original Léoville estates (along with Léoville Poyferré and Léoville Las Cases). 

Until the nineteenth century, the Domaine de Léoville Barton was one of the largest and oldest crus in the Médoc extending from the vineyards of Château Beychevelle on the southern edge of the St Julien appellation, all the way to Château Latour at the northern border of St Julien and Pauillac. 

It was a result of the French Revolution that the estate was divided into three parts between the years 1826 and 1840, Château Léoville Las Cases, Château Léoville Barton and Château Léoville Poyferré.

The two Barton estates, still owned by the Barton family today (along with Ch. Langoa Barton), date back to founder, Irish trader Thomas Barton who arrived in Bordeaux in 1725. 

He was an important figure in the wine trade during his lifetime but didn't buy any vineyards. It was his grandson, Hugh, who first purchased Château Langoa in Saint-Julien in 1821, and later acquired a part of the Léoville estate, which would become Ch. Léoville Barton.

The estate remains in the family today under the stewardship of Lilian Barton and her children Melanie and Damien have both joined the family business. 

We toured the historic Château Léoville-Barton grounds and vineyards at the estate during our visit to Saint Julien back in 2019.

The 130 acre estate with its classicSaint-Julien terroir of rich gravelly soil along the Gironde River estuary is planted to the specified varietals, with Cabernet Sauvignon accounting for a little more than 70 percent, with the remainder Merlot and a small amount of Cabernet Franc.

The wine cellar still maintains large wooden vats, with some dating as far back as 1963, while much of the rest of the region moved to stainless steel, Léoville Barton remained loyal to its traditions. Following fermentation, the wine is aged in French barrels (60% new) for around 20 months. 

Tonight, this proved to be an extraordinary, perfect wine and food pairing that complemented and amplified both. 

I write often in these pages about such a pairing, when properly done will indeed attenuate the enjoyment of both the food and the accompanying wine. 

Château Léoville-Barton Saint Julien Bordeaux 1981

I recently purchased several bottles of the most recent 2022 release of this label. was replenishing my stock. I came across several bottles from the OWC (original wood case) from the acquisition upon release of this vintage label. This is also one of the few remaining labels we hold from that 1981 vintage, birthyear of our daughter Erin. 

While the 1981 Bordeaux vintage was a bit lackluster and less worthy of long term cellaring, this bottle in its 43rd year was amazingly in remarkable condition - the fill level being just below the foil, and the cork still holding together albeit a bit saturated. The label, as shown, was soiled, and the cork was slightly saturated, but still intact to be able to be extracted with an Ahso two pronged cork puller (shown). 

I know that holding this wine for more than four decades was less than ideal and was a bit concerned about the state of this wine, despite its known provenance, having been in our cellar since release. 

The wine, while showing its age with some minor signs of diminution from aging, ie. slight browning of the color, was still showing full round fruits, with depth and breadth of flavors and smooth supple structured tannins.   

What a relief to get aromas of fruit and appropriate positive accents, and good color as I decanted the wine. Even with the slightly deteriorated cork, this bottle was still very much approachable and within its acceptable drinking window! No doubt the age worthiness was accentuated due to the larger format 1.5l magnum bottle.

Alas, this is the joy of having a deep wine cellar with many vintages across which to compare, over time, even across the decades!  My Cellartracker records indicate we have more than a dozen vintages of this label dating back to this vintage and the iconic 1982, 1955 and 1990 vintages, which we're still holding as birth-year wines for our three sons. 

After three hours of settling prior to pouring, the wine showed remarkably well. Compare this to the 1981 vintage Chateau Palmer we opened at Christmas dinner which did not fare nearly as well. 

Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, complex yet nicely balanced and full round flavors of black currant and black cherry fruits accented by very nice notes of all earth, wood, spice and tobacco with some savory sprites of black olive and cedar, finishing with moderate smooth polished tannins the finish - a nice match to the savory sauce accenting our grilled beefsteak. 

RM 88 points. 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/159583

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2023/01/ugcb-2020-vintage-release-tour-chicago.html

https://www.leoville-barton.com/

https://twitter.com/bartonwine

@Bartonwine

We followed this wine with another Bordeaux that I featured in a separate follow on blogpost - 

Château Larmande St Emilion Grand Cru Classé for Easter Dinner.