New Year’s Eve Celebration Dinner

New Year’s Eve Celebration Dinner

Son Sean and Michelle and the daughters/grand-daughters treated us to New Year’s Eve dinner. We dined at one of our favorite eateries, Hemingway’s Bistro in Oak Park (IL). We’ve enjoyed and hosted many dinners at Hemingway’s including our Pour Boys wine group, family and anniversary celebrations. 

Hemingway’s was booked for the entire evening and decorated festively for the holiday (s). 

We dined early to beat the crowds and allow for the children’s schedule. 

Hemingway’s offered a price fixe holiday dinner but we each ordered from the traditional menu, opting for our regular favorites from a menu we know well. 

From the limited but focused wine list, we started with Champagne to enjoy with our starter course (s).

Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut Rosém NV

This Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut Rosé French sparkling wine is from Alsace in the northeast corner of France on the German border. It is made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes using the traditional method.

Lucien Albrecht (pronounced Lu-Shen All-Bresht), one of the most distinguished producers of white wines in Alsace was founded in 1698 by Balthazar Albrecht in Orschwihr, a small village surrounded by by rolling hills and very complex and deep chalky soils with a high percentage of clay and sandstone screes, benefiting from South or Southeast exposure. ideally situated for grape-growing. 

The Crémant d’Alsace Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) was created in 1976 to distinguish the wines obtained by the sparkling champagne method. The term “crémant” comes originally from Champagne but is seldom used, in recognition of the efforts made by several Alsatian winemakers, including the Maison Lucien Albrecht.

Lucien Albrecht was a pioneer in the Crémant d’Alsace, which it began producing in 1971. Today the winery produces still and sparkling wines, all produced with fruit sourced exclusively from estate vineyards, including the Grand Cru Pfingstberg and Grand Cru Spiegel. 

The winemaking team is led by Jérôme Keller. Winemaker Notes - The flavors display nice strawberry and wild cherry fruit, with a touch of richness on the mid palate. It is balanced with dry, crisp acidity and complimented with a creamy texture and long finish. 

This NV label was rated 90 points by Wine Enthusiast and 88 points by James Suckling.

This modest priced wine provides high QPR. - quality price ratio. Dust orange colored, medium bodied, nicely balanced strawberry with apple and pear notes with hints of orange, lemon and pain grille with fine bubbles on the dry finish

https://www.lucien-albrecht.com/our-wines/cremants-alsace-lucien-albrecht/ 

We ordered several selections for our starter courses:

Blue Point Oysters - six piece, cocktail sauce

Chicken Liver Pate - Dijon Mustard | Cornichons | Toasted Crostini

Foie Gras du Jour - Caramelized Fruit, Pear Slices, Candy Onions, Parsnip Puree, Balsamic Vinaigrette

For the entree course: 

Linda the Roasted Stripe Bass A'la Piperade - pepper relish, golden raisins and cassoulet beans.

Michelle ordered the Grilled Steak Frites - Pommes Frites | Herb Stuffed Baked Tomato | Beurre Maitre d'Hotel.

Sean ordered the Duo of Magret Duck - parsnip puree, shitake caps, blood orange demi.

I ordered the New York Steak au Poivre - Cream Spinach | Pommes Au Gratin | Green Peppercorn Sauce

I took BYOB from our cellar for the occasion a vintage St Julien Bordeaux from one of our favorite producers for a perfect food wine pairing with the French cuisine.

Château Gruaud-Larose St Julien-Beychevelle Bordeaux 2010

We enjoyed A Visit to Château Gruaud-Larose which was one of the key highlights on our 2019 trip to the St Julien Appellation (AOC) in Bordeaux. Château Gruaud-Larose, a 2ème Cru Classé or 'second growth', one of fifteen Deuxièmes Crus (Second Growths) as classified in the original Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855.

This label is one of the key holdings in our cellar collection consisting of more than a dozen vintages spanning three decades dating back to 1980 including the birth year vintages of each of our kids, 1981, 1982, 1985 and 1990. We hold many vintages in large format bottles including 3 liter double magnums which we served at daughter Erin's and son-in-law Johnny's wedding.

Tonight, I selected a vintage release that I presumed to be in the ‘Goldilock’s zone’, not too old, and not too young, but just right, at the apex of its prime drinking window. I was not disappointed, this actually exceeded my highest hopes and expectations and was absolutely delicious, a perfect pairing with the dinner - especially the Foie Gras. As I have written often in these pages, an optimal food-wine pairing amplifies and ameliorates the enjoyment of both! Such was the case tonight. 

This release was rated 97 points by Decanter, 96 points by James Suckling, 95 points by Wine Enthusiast and Jane Anson, 94 points by Vinous, and 93 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator. 

Wine Enthusiast wrote, “For anybody looking for classic Bordeaux, this is the bottle to seek.” They advise to “ Keep for many years,” but this will be difficult as it is temptingly so good! Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate writes, “ … blockbuster wine, which has been built for the long haul. This is one 2010 where patience will be required. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040.” Thankfully I have nearly a case so will enjoy watching this age gracefully. 

The producers notes about the vintage season - “Ideal ripening of all the varieties overall thanks to exceptionally dry August and September without excessive heat. Ideal harvest from first to last day allowing picking of each variety at optimum oenological maturity.”

This released was aged in 50% new oak.

Dark garnet/plum/purple colored, full bodied, full tannins and dense but balanced, smooth, polished and elegant, ripe dark raspberry, red and black currant and blueberry fruits with “loads of spice, earth, underbrush, licorice, and a hint of Provencal garrigue”, with silky tannins and a beautifully integrated tannin structure on a long and ‘very’ refined tannic structure.

RM 95 points.  

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/1123336

https://www.gruaud-larose.com/en/

https://hemmingwaysbistro.com/

https://hemmingwaysbistro.com/our-menu/

Happy New Year and Cheers in the year ahead! 

Château Saint-André Corbin St Georges St Emilion 1989

Château Saint-André Corbin St Georges St Emilion 1989

With left over pizza I opened from the cellar a ‘pizza’ wine, medium bodied, complex and modest priced for every day sipping. I pulled an aged vintage right bank Bordeaux. 

Château Saint André Corbin is one of the "finds" of the Aquitaine Wine Company's Jean-Christophe Calvet, who searches out the petite chateaus of Bordeaux that carry the same qualities found at the larger, more famous estates, but at more modest prices providing high QPR - quality price ratios, especially in better vintage years, when ‘all boats rise with the tide’.

Château Grand Corbin, Grand Cru Classé is in the Saint-George-Saint-Emilion appellation, a lesser ‘satellite’ appellation of the famed Saint-Emilion region of Bordeaux, sitting just to its north, close to the Pomerol appellation. 

Château Grand Corbin has 32 acres of vineyards planted on clay-siliceous soils, 68% Merlot and the rest with the two Cabernets, Sauvignon and Franc. Typical of most Right Bank vineyards, Merlot dominates here, but also used is Cabernet Franc, and lesser amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend.  

At thirty-five years this was amazingly resilient, still in its acceptable drinking window and only showing modest signs of diminution from age. The cork was partially saturated but still intact. The fill level was still pristine for its age, still in the mid-neck, reflecting ideal storage conditions in our cellar for tong-term aging. Also, the 1989 vintage in Bordeaux produced high quality long lived wines. 

Garnet colored with a slight brownish hue setting in showing its age, medium bodied, complex currant and blackberry fruits are holding on but starting to show a bit of tart acidity, smoke, tobacco and hints of black pepper are starting to give way to notes of herbs, thyme and graphite pencil with pronounced acidity and moderate tannins. 

RM 87 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?333041

Gala Family Celebration Dinner Welcomes new grand-daughter Ryleigh

Gala Family Celebration Dinner Welcomes new grand-daughter Ryleigh

We gathered the family together to welcome Alec and Vivianna’s new baby, our newest grand-daughter, Ryleigh, to the family. We ordered carry out Italian cuisine from Angeli’s Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria. 

Dinner consisted of Angeli’s signature dishes, Mussels in White Wine sauce, Butternut Gnocchi, Peppers and Sausage, and Lasagna, with garlic bread and salad. 

Prior to dinner we had a medley of artisan cheeses with crackers and fresh fruits and olives. 

For the occasion, I opened a flight of wines, white, red, sparkling, and dessert, several aged vintage wines from our cellar collection of birthyear vintage wines, in this case for Alec’s birthyear. 

We celebrated and I wrote about the extraordinary, exceptional 1990 vintage, Alec’s birthyear often in these pages including - Wedding Wines - Birthyear and Big Bottle Extravaganza Continues.

Opening multiple bottles of the same vintage is called a ‘horizontal’, (as opposed to a ‘vertical’, which is multiple vintages of the same bottle/label). A horizontal tasting is often revealing in comparing how one region, varietal, appellation and producer ages relative to others. 

Charles Heidseick Brut Vintage Champagne 1990

This is one of several Heidseick Champagne houses, named for founder Charles Heidsieck, nephew of the famous uncle of the Piper-Heidsieck Champagne House. Charles Heidsieck was born in 1822 and married into the Piper family. 

Charles grew up in the vineyards and gained experience at his uncle’s business, but left to pursue his ambitions based on his own winemaking philosophy and founded his own Champagne House, Charles Heidsieck in Reims in 1851. 

After success in the Europe marketplace, Charles set out for America to sell his wares in the US and was one of the first to introduce Champagne successfully to the country. He gained notoriety and popularity with his outgoing gregarious personality and he famously became known as ‘Champagne Charlie’. 

Charlie had an eventful few years in America, including being imprisoned in Louisiana on suspicion of being a spy during the Civil War. He was eventually freed by President Lincoln himself and then returned to settle in Champagne.

Unlike his peers, Charles viewed himself as a blender and not a grower and , instead of purchasing land, he spent most of his money investing in forty-seven underground chalk cellars dating back to the 11th century. He began buying grapes from trusted grower families with expertise in perfecting the care of their vines going back generations. 

Today, Charles Heidsieck Champagne sources grapes from 60 separate sites, encompassing a variety of different Crus, some of these plots are cultivated by the fourth or fifth generation of the same family.

Charles Heidsieck is a hand-crafted champagne. The intricacies of its complex make-up have been perfected over the years by one of the most celebrated winemaking teams in Champagne. Between three winemakers they have been awarded Sparkling Winemaker of the Year at the International Wine Challenge twelve times, an award no other house has won more than twice!

The flagship cuvée, Brut Réserve, is the house’s flagship masterpiece. Many years in the making, the wine is a blend of 60 of the best vineyards and harvests going back more than 15 years. It is aged in the House’s Roman chalk cellars under Reims, which provide an ideal environment to age the wine with its unique combination of constant temperature, high humidity levels and no sound, light or vibration to disturb the wines. 

Since 2011, the company has been owned by the Descours family continuing the legacy ensuring the company remains family-run with a long-term vision for the future. In early 2015, Cyril Brun took over as Cellar Master, having been assistant winemaker for many years at Veuve Clicquot.

I’ve written often in these pages about the incredible 1990 vintage that enjoyed success globally, from Bordeaux in France, to Napa Valley in American, to Australia. Indeed, Wine Spectators Wine of the Year featured 1990 vintage releases for three years to follow.

The 1990 vintage in Champagne was also extraordinary. Despite severe frosts in the spring, the vineyards enjoyed hot weather throughout the growing cycle. Not since 1950 had the sun been so strong; grapes had never experienced so much sunlight. There was, however, no drought like in 1976 or 1959. Just at the perfect moment, as the situation became dire, it would rain.As a result, the vine stocks, deeply rooted in the chalky soil’s water reserves, did not suffer. The heat hindered the development of disease and parasites, leading to perfectly healthy grapes at harvest.

This release was a traditional blend of 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay.

Producer’s vintage notes - “TO THE EYE: A golden robe with glints of copper sparkling withdelicate phemeral bubbles. ON THE NOSE: The wine expresses maturity as it opens with notesof oxidation: spices, roasting coffee, jellied fruit sweets andcandied melon. There is also a touch of cocoa. This complex noseoffers toasted, roasted notes with citrus fruit, bergamot, lemonand orange zest. The structure develops, but contributes to thearomatic complexity without overpowering it. ON THE PALATE: The palate is characterised by nuts – walnuts andhazelnuts – but also cocoa, coffee and raisins. The wine demonstrates great elegance and freshness thanks to its citrus fruit notes accompanied by apricot and mirabelle plum. The finish is saltyand chalky.”

We acquired several bottles of this birthyear vintage designated Champagne years ago and served it at special occasions, most notably, Alec and Vivianna’s wedding celebration five years ago and at other family celebrations, since. 

We still hold several bottles of this label and need to consume them soon. At thirty five years, this had lost its effervescence, yet was still tasty and pleasant interesting drinking. 

Back in 2021 I wrote - Amazing, impressive life left in this 31 year old vintage Champagne. 

The color was dark gold colored with intense, complex, dry, finely integrated layers of zesty citrus fruits accented by notes of roasted almonds and paine grille with hints of fresh dough, smoke, and pineapple with a long bright vibrant finish.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2021/06/fathers-day-grilled-steak-wine-dinner.html

Tonight, this was tea colored, light medium bodied, dry, subtle layers of citrus fruit accented by notes of roasted almonds and paine grille with hints of fresh dough, smoke, and tones of coffee on the moderate finish. With the zest gone, it’s time to drink up the remaining bottles. 

RM 88 points for now. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?39790

Domaine de l'Ancienne Cure Monbazillac Cuvée Abbaye 1990

We opened this vintage dessert wine which went well with the salad, the cheeses, the sausage, as well as the desserts. This sweet dessert wine is from the appellation of Monbazillac, the third most esteemed region in Bordeaux for sweet wines, behind Sauternes and Loupiac. 

Early in the 20th century the wines of Monbazillac were considered equally with and fetched the same prices as the more famous, higher chateaux of Sauternes. With its exceptional terroir and microclimate suitable for the production of late harvest wines, this region is re-emerging the “new” sauternes. 

The wines of Domaine de l’Ancienne Cure are considered among the best in the region. The Domaine de l’Ancienne Cure is situated in Colombier, in the southwest of France, in the Périgord region, in the South of Bergerac, on the appellation Bergerac and Monbazillac.  

The estate covers 125 acres, 80 of which are planted with white grape varieties and 17 with red grape varieties. The grape varieties selected and vinified for the dry and sweet wines are Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Muscadelle, and Chenin and Ondenc which are ‘accessory’ grape varieties permitted in the appellation, with a limited percentage in the blend. The grape varieties selected for the red and rosé wines include Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Malbec.

Christian Roche has managed the winery since 1984. He rebuilt the wine cellar in 1989 in the his endeavors to improve the quality of the wines.

This is a blend of traditional Monbazillac varietal grapes: 80% botrysized Semillon and 20% Muscadelle. A is customary for dessert wines, the grapes are harvested in multiple passes through the vineyards with only those affected by noble rot making their way into the cuvee. This wine was aged 24 months in oak barrel.

At thirty five years, the label and foil, and more importantly the cork and fill level were in ideal condition for their age. The color was deep dark brownish golden tea colored. When released this wine was straw colored, then darkened with aging, turning golden, then increasingly deeper brown. 

Producers’ notes - “Here the Monbazillac is adorned with gold, as it should. While not explosive, the bouquet is a beautiful complexity candied fruit, but also notes of quince, acacia, lemon … On the palate, the sugar-acid balance is remarkable. It is both rich, powerful, bold and fresh. The wood (twenty-six months in the barrel) is perfectly allowed to express the fruit. In a word, harmonious.”

“Luscious deep gold, honeyed and fat with peachy botrytis tones, gingerbread, hazelnuts, fresh mint and eucalyptus on the palate. The Ancienne Cure is mini Mon-bee, marzipan, orange peel and spices.”

Showing its age, gone were bright sprites of apricot, oranges and quince, the fruits were subdued and turned to notes of smoky and espresso accenting the sweet honeyed citrus, yet this was very interesting and enjoyable drinking, especially nicely paired with various courses of the meal.  

RM 90 points at this stage. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=167954

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/167954

https://www.domaine-anciennecure.fr/gb/

This mini-horizontal tasting of two Bordeaux varietal wines from the same vintage was illuminating, comparing the Bordeaux to the Alexander Valley Cabernet. 

Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1990

We then opened this well known popular label from Alec’s birthyear vintage. This is the same label we served at his and Vivianna’s wedding celebration five years ago. We also still hold several bottles of the Napa Valley variant of this label. Believing it will age longer than the Alexander Valley version, we opened this one, as part of cellar inventory management. 

We wrote about this label and this birthyear release in more detail in this earlier blogpost - Special Silver Oak Birthyear wines for Festive Holiday Open House, and Birthyear vintage labels and large format bottles.

We hold over four cases of this label across a vertical collection of sixteen vintages dating back to the birthyears of each of our kids. 

At thirty five years, the label and foil, and more importantly the cork and fill level were in remarkably ideal condition for their age. 

Winemaker Notes for this release - “The 1990 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon has a stable and lively translucent, ruby red color. It offers aromas of bergamot, vanilla, and hints of black cherry. This wine has an impressive lively and bright, yet elegant, attack and mid-palate with hints of red pepper flavor. The 1990 still shows exuberance and structured tannins on the lengthy finish. Decanting suggested. “

This was rated 91 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate.

After decanting and breathing for two and a half hours, this was still approachable, albeit showing its age with a slight bit of funkiness, leather and wood setting in, offsetting the blackberry fruits. The color was still dark garnet colored with the slightest bit of cloudiness appearing. 

Medium bodied, the blackberry and black cherry fruits were hanging on with notes of leather, cigar box, cassis, spice and forest floor with a still balanced lingering finish. 

RM 89 points at this stage.   

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?10085

This was an interesting comparison to the same vintage Bordeaux below; see comments that follow. 

Chateau La Louviere Passaic Leognan Bordeaux 1990

We hold nearly three cases of a vertical collection of this label spread across a dozen vintages dating back to this birthyear release. 

At thirty five years, the label and foil, and the import fill level were in good condition for their age. (We still hold five more bottles of this release and we selected the one with the worst condition soiled label.) The cork was saturated and starting to soften and started to recede into the bottle when pressed with the two pronged cork puller. With care and a more than a bit of experienced skill, it was extracted intact, but proceed with caution opening more bottles. 

The cork was saturated and starting to soften and started to recede into the bottle when pressed with the two pronged cork puller. With care and a more than a bit of experienced skill, it was extracted intact, but proceed with caution opening more bottles. 

This was rated 91 points by Wine Spectator and 90 points by Wine Advocate, back in 2000 and 1997 respectively. .

Wine Advocate wrote, “One of the finest of the lesser known Graves chateaux, La Louviere has been making terrific wine since the late eighties.” 

Wine Spectator wrote’ “ One of the best wines ever from this estate.”

Compared to the Silver Oak, Alexander, this was showing more diminution from aging, with slight rust brownish color hues on the rim, slight clouding, and showing a bit less remaining structure and body.

Slight foggy dark garnet colored, medium bodied, dark berry and cherry fruits were a bit muted but still hanging on, accented still by that classic Graves tobacco, smoke, leather and cassis, with slight remaining grainy texture on the short finish. 

This was still holding on surprisingly well, and approachable, mostly so as part of this horizontal comparison, but it’s time to drink up in the near term. 

RM 87 points at this stage. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?10446

Our great fun with wine such as this gala family celebration continues. 

Château Haut-Bages Libéral with meatloaf

Château Haut-Bages Libéral with meatloaf and artisan cheeses 

Following our BYOB dinner out at Entourage DG Friday, where we opened from our home cellar a twenty year old vintage Grand Cru Classe’ Bordeaux with their signature Meatloaf entree, I pulled another such wine to accompany the take-home leftovers for Sunday evening dinner at home for a mini horizontal tasting of the 2005 Bordeaux vintage. 

We also paired this with some artisan cheeses, “F.R.O.G.” (Figs, Raspberries & Oranges Spiced with Ginger) Preserves, crackers and pitted greek olives. 

This time I opened a Left Bank Pauillac Bordeaux rather than the Right Bank St Emilion we drank Friday. 

Château Haut-Bages Libéral Grand Cru Classe’ 2005

This is from’ Fifth Growth’ producer (as classified in the original Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855),  Château Haut-Bages Libéral that sits on the outskirts of the town of Pauillac (hence the name of the Pauillac Appellation (AOC)), just down the road and adjacent to top producers Pichon Baron, Pichon Lalande and Chateau Latour. 

We stopped at the estate winery and vineyards during our Bordeaux Wine Experience trip in 2019. 

Château Haut-Bages Libéral was established by and is named for the Libéral family who were négociants and vineyard owners in the early 1700’s, and for its position on the Bages plateau, like the similarly named well known neighbor Lynch Bages. 

The estate fell to lower quality and a state of somewhat disrepair during the wars and financial crises of the early 1900s, until the Cruse family (owners of Château Pontet-Canet at the time) purchased the property in 1960. 

The Cruse family engaged in widespread replanting of the vineyards and improved the quality, actually producing Haut Bages Liberal at Château Pontet-Canet for several years.

In 1983, they sold Chateau Haut Bages Liberal to the Taillan group. The Taillan group owns several chateaux in Bordeaux including: Chateau Gruaud Larose in Saint Julien, Chateau Ferrier in Margaux, Chateau Chaste Spleen, Chateau Camensac, Chateau Gressier Grand Poujeaux and Chateau Citran in the Haut Medoc, and Chateau Broustet in Sauternes.

In 2000, the Taillan group renovated and modernized the wine-making facilities at the Pauillac estate.

They sold the estate to the current owners, the Villars-Merlaut family, who continued improvement under the direction and leadership of Claire Villars-Lurton who also serves as winemaker. Along with her husband Gonzague Lurton, Claire Villars-Lurton also owns and manages Chateau Ferriere and Chateau La Gurgue in Margaux and Chateau Domeye in St. Estephe. They also make wine from Bordeaux varietals in Sonoma, California at their Trinite Estates vineyard.

The Château Haut-Bages Libéral estate consists of 75 acres of vineyards planted to 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot. The main vineyard that surrounds the Chateau and winery sits next door to first growth Château Latour and shares the distinctive terroir with parcels of limestone soils, which some say lend elegance and finesse in a commune often known for power. 

Another vineyard sits across the road adjacent highly acclaimed Chateau Pichon Baron, which shares the classic Pauillac terroir consisting of gravel on chalk, clay, and limestone soils, and a third smaller parcel site is further inland. The average age of the vines is close to 35 years of age. 

Haut-Bages Libéral produces roughly 10,000 cases of wine per vintage, including this Grand Vin and their second wine (labeled as either Le Pauillac de Haut-Bages Libéral, La Chapelle de Bages, or La Fleur de Haut-Bages Libéral).

Château Haut-Bages Libéral 2005

At twenty years old, this was holding better than the Château Larmande 2005 we opened Friday, which was beginning to shows signs of aging with a crumbling deteriorating cork and a slight fall-off of the fruit.

The important fill level and cork were both still near perfect, and the fruit aromatics filled the room as soon as it was opened (using an Ahso two pronged cork puller). Vinous wrote in 2021  “The 2005 Haut-Bages Libéral is a very young Pauillac that is just beginning to show the first signals of aromatic opening.” 

There’s still several years left of prime drinking in this vintage release. 

This wine, as I have often written, that in great vintages, “all boats rise with the tide”, such that lesser growth producers, and second and even third wines of top producers, delivers great QPR - quality price ratio, as it sells for a fraction of the price of its ultra-premium highly acclaimed neighbors. 

This release was awarded 92-94 points by Wine Enthusiast, 93 by Wine Spectator, 91 by Vinous, and 90 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. 

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, aromatic, opulent, moderately firmly structured rich round blackberry and black currant fruits with notes of licorice, spice, cigar box and forest floor, with smooth tannins on a big expressive finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=224097

https://www.gc-lurton-estates.com/en/chateau-haut-bages-liberal.html

Ducru Beaucaillou & Bollinger La Grande Année at Joseph’s Steakhouse Iowa City

Ducru Beaucaillou & Bollinger La Grande Année at Joseph’s Steakhouse Iowa City 

We traveled with son Ryan and his family to Iowa City, IA to tour his alma mater, the University of Iowa. 

Ryan gave us and the kids/grandkids a campus and town tour that included the spectacular sports facilities - Kinnick Football stadium, Carver-Hawkeye Basketball Arena and adjacent sports facilities, and the world class Medical School and Hospital Complexes. 

We then toured the academic campus, most notably the Tippe School of Business that Ryan attended, the Memorial Union and the historic campus, old state capital building and adjacent museum. 

We then toured the city center with its ped mall, shops, boutiques, restaurants and of course, campus bars. 

A highlight was dinner at Joseph’s Steakhouse downtown, a short walk from our hotel. 

For our dinner entrees, we ordered steaks, petit filet, ribeye and Waygu Beef sirloins. Each was served with whipped potatoes and asparagus spears with Demi-glaze au jus.  All were high quality delicious cuts of beef, superbly prepared and presented. 

Linda and Michelle both ordered one of the house specialities, Ribeye Filet & Fettuccine - house-made pasta, roasted mushrooms, sauteed kale, roasted garlic, demi-glace, with white truffle butter. This was delicious and perhaps the best choice, most likely my choice for next time if we have the opportunity to visit again. 

We ordered a side order of the Fresh Sourdough Bread and the Brussel Sprouts & Bacon. 

For the special outing festive dinner, I brought BYOB from our home cellar an aged birthyear vintage bottle of Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou 1983 commemorating D-in-law Michelle’s birthyear. 

We also ordered from the extensive Joseph’s Wine List a bottle of vintage Bollinger La Grande Année Brut Champagne 2014. 

https://josephs-steak.com/wine/

Château Ducru Beaucaillou St Julien Bordeaux 1983 

Our visit to the magnificent historic Château Ducru Beaucaillou estate, vineyards, winery and cellars was one of the highlights of our trip to St Julien back in 2018 featured in these pages in this post - A visit to Château Ducru Beaucaillou - (https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/08/ducru-beaucaillou.html). 

We hold an extensive collection of Ducru dating back four decades. We served Château Ducru Beaucaillou at our kid’s, Erin and Ryan’s weddings, from large format Jeroboam and Double Magnum bottles. This bottle is one of the few last remaining in our cellar from this vintage. 

Robert Parker awarded this release 98+ points saying upon release, “this is a blockbuster, fabulous Ducru Beaucaillou that should be at its best a good decade from now and last 40-50 years. The proprietor is not alone in thinking this is the finest Ducru Beaucaillou since the 1961.” This is saying a lot given the 1982 vintage was considered one of the best of the century for the region. 

Julien Graves of Boutellier Wines awarded this release 95 points. This release was awarded 94 points by reviewer John Gilman and was considered one of the finest wines of the vintage on either bank of the Gironde and ‘still has several decades of fine drinking ahead of it, now entering its peak period”. 

Amazingly, at 42 years, the fill level was customary lower neck (shown left), the label and foil were pristine, and the cork, while intact and complete, was starting to soften and pulled apart at the bottom of the grip of my Ahso two pronged cork puller, as the extended length cork was longer than the prongs of the implement. 

Upon opening, we decanted this before serving. 

Had we allowed the server to extract the cork using typical means of a corkscrew, it wouldn’t most assuredly disintegrated, or at least pulled apart. She was happy and intrigued to watch me use my ahso, with which I was able to remove the cork gracefully, including the separated tip. She had never seen such a device, nor did the restaurant have one for such occasions. 

Drinking very nicely, still within its drinking window, but likely starting to diminish here forward. 

Slightly opaque garnet colored, medium full bodied, classic St Julien characteristics of structured, tannin laced backbone, yet, pure, elegant and polished, complex and nicely balanced, bright dark berry and black cherry and currant fruits with notes of tobacco, dried roses, wet rock and gravel with hints of creosote and cassis, turning to polished tannins on the smooth, soft, lingering finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2922

https://chateau-ducru-beaucaillou.com/en

Bollinger, La Grande Année, Brut, Champagne, FR, 2014

This is one of Ryan’s favorite producers/labels. Champagne Bollinger produce this special limited release La Grande Année label only in exceptional harvest years, made only from Grand and Premier cru grapes.

La Grande Année is “the embodiment of the carefully preserved traditional expertise of Champagne Bollinger, vinified in oak barrels, sealed with natural cork and riddled by hand, then aged patiently for 10 years in Bollinger’s chalky cellars”.

La Grande Année 2014 is a blend  sourced from 19 crus (vineyards), mostly in Aÿ and Verzenay, for the 61% Pinot Noir, and Chouilly and Oiry for the 39% Chardonnay.

We toured the region and the Bollinger vineyards with son Alec during our Champagne Wine Experience back in 2006 - ((https://mcnees.org/travelsite/trips/champagne/champagne.htm), prior to publishing these pages).

To remove the sediment deposit that forms over the years of aging, they invented the very unique method of riddling: gently and gradually moving the bottle to progressively remove the sediment and guide it into the neck of the bottle, to be disgorged during the bottling process. 

This release was awarded 98 points by Antonio Galloni, 97 points by Alison Napjus and 96 points by Richard Juhlin. 

Winemaker’s tasting notes on this release - “Tinted with golden glints that reflect the wine’s maturity and Bollinger vinification.’ 

“A precise and fruity nose with a slight scent of sea-air. Aromas of cherry and lemon mingle with quince and bergamot. Then notes of hazelnut and almond, peach and mirabelle plum complete this wine’s range of aromas.’

“The initial sensation is a fine and intense effervescence, followed by a wonderful vinosity, and then balanced with delicate acidity. Its very fine texture and sea-air finish bring excellent length on the palate, accompanied by a delicate minerality and the complex flavours of orchard fruit and citrus. This wine unfurls gradually, revealing its full potential and intensity.”

RM 96 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4254330

https://www.champagne-bollinger.com/en/the-collection/grande-annee/

For dessert we enjoyed the Joseph’s CRÈME BRÛLÉE and BREAD PUDDING.

https://josephs-steak.com/

Ravello Restaurant Montgomery

Ravello Restaurant Montgomery 

Returning home from our Destin, Florida vacation getaway we stopped in Montgomery, AL for dinner. What a pleasant surprise to discover the history and architecture of Alabama’s state capitol city, and the Capital campus and grounds, federal building (s), and parks and monuments, testaments to the historic old south slave markets and the civil rights movement. It is definitely worth a return trip as a destination in it’s own right to explore further! 

We were drawn to Montgomery to dine at Ravello Restaurant with its fine dining offering coastal Italian cuisine based on the rich culinary heritage of the Italian Amalfi Coast, with fresh seafood, pastas and meats, and Wine Spectator Award of Excellence wine list.

Ravello’s magnificent multi-story dining room boasts historic architecture of a former bank. The site was a City Fed restoration project, integrating three buildings from 1926, which now house Ravello its rooftop Bar Attico and private event spaces, in the heart of downtown Montgomery, blocks from the government district.

For a starter we shared the Roasted Beet Salad with Arugula, candied blood orange, prosciutto, goat cheese and blood orarange vinaigrette. 

Linda ordered the Seared Gulf Red Snapper with Salsa Verde, and a side of the Brussels Sprouts which were extraordinary and a highlight of the meal.

For my dinner I had the Filet of Beef with black garlic butter and a side of Polenta. 

The Ravello wine list/cellar offers 265 different wines from a collection of 2200 bottles. The twelve page Ravello wine list holds a.Wine Spectator Awarded with two pages of WBTG - Wines By The Glass, a page of Champagne and Sparkling wines, a page of Whites, three pages of Reds, plus a page of Reserve Wines, a page of Limited and Rare Wines, and a page of La Sirena wines by legendary winemaker Heidi Barrett. 

Some of the highlights or interesting labels are three vintages of TESSERON ESTATE "PYM-RAE" MT. VEEDER RED BLEND at $750 each, and culminating in a DOMAINE DE LE ROMANEE-CONTI “ECHEZEAUX” GRAND CRU 2020 for $1800. Pages of the wine list are shown below:

Repeating what I have often said about such wine lists, that “I can’t afford to drink my own cellar”, two wines that we drank from our cellar recently were offered, notably, Chateau Gruaud Larose 2005 (Gruaud Larose BYOB at Entourage DG) for $575, and Chateau Palmer (Family Christmas Celebration Dinner) 2011 for $950. 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2025/04/gruaud-larose-byob-at-entourage-dg.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2024/12/family-christmas-celebration-and-wine.html

That said, it just so happened I had in the car a vintage Bordeaux that I was transporting from our Destin remote wine cellar back home, so I pulled it for a BYOB wine accompaniment with our dinner. Based on the above calibrations, it would’ve carried a wine list price of around $600. (This bottle was brought by fellow ‘Pour Boy’ wine buddy Lyle to Destin for a recent visit and we didn’t get to it during our multiple dinners. We’ll enjoy a replacement together from our home cellar at an upcoming dinner when back in Chicago.) 

Château Smith Haut Lafitte Pessac-Léognan Grand Cru Classe’ Bordeaux 2012 

The Château Smith Haut Lafitte estate lies about 30 km south of the City of Bordeaux, 4 km outside the village of Léognan. 

The historic estate dates back to the 14th century when Verrier Du Bosq signed the first recorded deeds for a few vine rows. George Smith, a Scottish wine merchant, acquired the property in the mid-18th century and named it after himself.

The Fleurs-de-lis emblem logo on the label represents the three branches for George Smith’s three children, and representing the Verrier du Bosq family who founded the vineyard, a crescent emblematic of the Port of Bordeaux: the “Port of the Moon”. The port became an important wine export shipping center sending regional wines to England and the Netherlands and beyond.

In 1842, the estate was acquired by Lodi Martin Duffour-Dubergier, Mayor of Bordeaux, and signer of the official 1855 classification, who elevated Smith Haut Lafitte wines to Grand Cru Exceptional status.

In the early 20th century, the négociant firm Eschenauer, headed by the famous “Uncle Louis” Eschenauer, sold Smith Haut Lafitte wines and ended up buying the château in 1958.

In 1990, the estate was acquired by current owners, Daniel and Florence Cathiard, acquired with the firm intention of continuing its tradition of excellence, “to do everything possible to make each vintage of red and white wine worthy of our magnificent terroir.” 

The estate terroir boasts the classic Gravels « Graves Gunziennes » forcing the vines to dig more than 6 meters deep and the grapes benefit from the stones’ mirror effect from the sun to aid in optimal ripening. The vines average age is 38 years. 

The Cathiards Aspent spent three years renovating the estate and now live there in the 18th century chartreuse dating from George Smith’s time. Grounds of forests, hedges, and hives surround the 87 hectares of the single block vineyard.

This 2012 release is 55 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 40 % Merlot, 4 % Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot.
It was aged 18 months on lees in French oak barrels (60 % new) made at the Château onsite cooperage, with one racking only, and then ageing adjusted for each wine.

Comments by Fabien Teitgen, Technical Director - “Château Smith Haut Lafitte red 2012 offers a beautiful dark bright red colour with blue hue. The already expressive nose reveals very fresh notes of red fruits (strawberry, cherry) with a hint of smoke. Once aerated, the nose complexity appears with delicate notes of spices (star anise, liquorice, cinnamon), of red fruits as well as beautiful and elegant flower notes. Then the nose stretches out with terroir aromas of flint stone and fireplace. The attack in mouth is fresh and balanced with a fleshy and unctuous texture. The wine is a subtle balance between maturity and freshness: the maturity from the concentration, the impressive unctuosity and sugarity and the beautiful structure of long and classy tannins; the freshness from the tension, the dynamism and the aroma sparkle. The aromatic is very close to that of the nose, characterised by the freshness with crunchy red fruits, spices notes of liquorice, dry herbs, fireplace and flint stone.”

With a suggested drinking window of 2017 - 2027, this is no doubt at its apex for optimal consumption, but will certainly continue to hold for another decade or more.

This release was rated 95 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, and a concensus 94 points by Decanter, James Suckling, Vinous, Wine Enthusiast (*Cellar Selection*) and Wine Spectator. 

Describing the 2012 release Decanter wrote, “ By this point, more than 20 years of intelligent investment by owners Daniel and Florence Cathiard had paid off.” Vinous wrote “ This is another classy Pessac-Léognan and a wonderful example from Pessac-Léognan that might well be leading the pack at this stage.”

This is as good as and as memorable Smith Haut Lafitte I recall ever having tasted, except perhaps their monumental 100 point release a few years ago. 

We enjoy tasting each new release of this label and meeting the producer as regular participants in each year’s UGCB release tour tasting in Chicago each year, (Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB)),  

Dark garnet-purple colored, medium to full-bodied, perfectly balanced, complex, rich and pure nicely integrated blackberry and hints of blueberry fruits with notes of tobacco, chocolate, coffee, spice, black tea and tar with smooth polished velvety plush tannins and a long, long finish. 

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1601102

https://www.smith-haut-lafitte.com/en/home/

https://www.smith-haut-lafitte.com/en/our-wines/

https://twitter.com/ChateauSHL

https://www.ravellomgm.com/

https://www.ravellomgm.com/wine

https://www.southernliving.com/montgomery-alabama-7504866#toc-what-to-do-in-montgomery-alabama

St Emilion Grand Cru duo w/ Beef Tenderloin

St Emilion Grand Cru duo w/ Beef Tenderloin and medley of whites/blush with grilled scallops  

We host long time dear friends Bob & Gloria, visiting us from Delray Beach, at our vacation home in Destin, FL. 

We grilled out beef tenderloin, served with haricot verts and baked potatoes, and grilled seared scallops on buttered herb toast points. 

With the Caesar salad, grilled scallops and a selection of artisan cheeses, we enjoyed a medley of easy drinking casual sipping white wines and a blush. 

La Crema Sonoma Chardonnay 2022

Lohr Riverstone Vineyard Chardonnay 2023

Carpenter Creek Cellars Steuben Indiana Rose’ NV

Having fun with and paying tribute to Bob’s and our Hoosier heritage, I opened this Indiana wine from an Indiana producer composed of Indiana grapes.

This is from Carpenter Creek Cellars, a farm winery housed in a quaint picturesque renovated 1919 barn midway between Chicago and Lafayette, IN. 

We tasted, then acquired this label at the producer winery off I-65 in northern Indiana during one of several visits over recent years. I featured Carpenter Creek cellars, the owners and their wines in this and other blogposts - https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/11/carpenter-creek-cellars-indiana.html  

During our visit at that time, we tasted a half dozen of their wines and ended up buying several labels. This is a bit remarkable as they exceeded my expectations for Indiana produced wines such that we brought home nearly a case. This is a testament to the craft and handiwork of partner proprietors Ed Courtright who wanted to grow grapes in northern Indiana to supply wineries in the area, and winemaker Randy Rottler, who had dreams of starting a small winery.

This label is 100% Steuben, a Hybrid wine grape that is primarily grown in the northeastern US, particularly in the wine regions of New York State, Pennsylvania and Michigan, as well as Indiana and Ohio. The variety is particularly cold-hardy, vigorous and productive as well as being quite disease-resistant. It is known for its vibrant red color and is often used to produce rosé wines such as this. 

Steuben grapes have a distinct flavor profile, with notes of strawberry, cherry, and a hint of spice. The wine made from Steuben grapes is typically medium-bodied, with a refreshing acidity and a slightly sweet finish. 

This was much better two days later with a selection of artisan cheeses and crackers. 

Winemaker’s notes - A gentle off dry blush wine which exhibits raspberry and strawberry notes with a citrus finish.

Blood orange colored, light bodied, moderately sweet/dry, strawberry and raspberry notes with hints of tea leaves and tangy cinnamon spice. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?5398089

Turning to the main course delicious grilled tenderloin of beef, Bob brought from home a St Emilion Grand Cru Classe’ so I opened from our modest remote cellar a like AOC and vintage, for a mini-horizontal comparison tasting. 

Chateau Monbousquet St Emilion Grand Cru 2020 

The Chateau Monbousquet St. Emilion estate can trace its history all the way back to 1540 when it belonged to François de Lescours, before it became the property of the well-established De Carles family where it remained for almost 150 years. The beautiful, classically styled chateau was built in 1648 by Jacques de Geres and today, is the private home of Gerard Perse and Chantal Perse along with the rest of the Perse family.

At the close of World War II, the Querre family purchased Chateau Monbousquet and set upon improving the quality of the wines. In 1993, they sold the estate to Gerard Perse and Chantal Perse for $9 million. Chateau Monbousquet was the first vineyard purchase by Gerard Perse, who later went on to acquire several more properties. 

The first vintage of Chateau Monbousquet for Gerard Perse was the difficult 1997 which produced only a few barrels or somewhere between 300 and 600 bottles out of the entire harvest.

Shortly after Gerard Perse obtained Chateau Monbousquet, he began renovating the estate completely rebuilding the winemaking facilities and cellars and constructing an entirely new barrel-aging cellar.

The 32 hectare Monbousquet Saint Emilion vineyards are divided into three sections with more sand and clay in the north, and more gravel with sand in the south, and are not considered among the best in St. Emilion. They average 40 years of age and are planted to 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Some were replanted to increase the proportion of Cabernet Franc over Merlot to better match the varieties to their most appropriate soils.

Perse improved the quality of the wines, also partly by intentionally striving for lower yields thereby increasing their concentration.

In 2013, motivated by French tax laws, Gerard Perse sold a portion of Chateau Monbousquet to a large, anonymous, French, pension fund. This allowed his daughter Angelique and her husband, Henrique Da Costa to eventually take over all the Perse-owned wineries which by this time included Chateau Pavie, Chateau Bellevue Mondotte, and Chateau Pavie Decease. as well as their estates in the Cotes de Castillon appellation.

This 2020 Monbousquet is a blend of 70% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, and was aged in French oak barriques, 50% of which are new.

This release was rated 96 points by Jeb Dunnuck, 95 by James Suckling and Wine Spectator, and 91-93 by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, and 92 by Decanter and Wine Independent.

This is packaged in a heavier, slightly larger than normal Bordeaux bottle, more akin to more expensive ultra-premium wines. 

Deep inky purple-black color, full bodied, complex but nicely balanced, concentrated bright vibrant blackberry, plum and hints of black cherry fruits with notes of cassis, chocolate, tobacco, charcoal and herbs, with plush tannins on a fragrant earthy finish. 

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3989361

Chateau Clos Junet St Emilion Grand Cru 2020

 

We tasted and acquired this wine at the Tour of Bordeaux Wine Dinner at The Wine World Wine Bar here in Destin last fall, one of the carefully selected featured wines paired with a dinner course. The dinner’s food and wine pairings were prepared in collaboration with and was currated by guest speaker Cassidy Stiebing, Regional Sales Director and Bordeaux expert from Twins, a French Bordeaux Negociant and US Distributor for the wines.

Chateau  Clos Junet, located just west of the picturesque village of Saint Emilion, is owned and managed by Patrick Junet today. The family-owned and managed property has belonged to the Junet family for more than 100 years, having purchased the estate back in 1890, it has remained in the hands of Junet family since.

The diminutive 3-hectare, Clos Junet estate vineyard is planted to 65% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Malbec. They have old vines with the oldest being more than 80 years of age. The terroir is typical St Emilion limestone, chalk, sand, and clay soils.

Clearly, a more modest wine than the bigger, bolder and more present Chateau Monbousquet, this provided an interesting comparison between two wines from the same appellation and vintage. A more discerning taster, might also pick up the subtle difference in the blend with the Malbec as opposed to the Cabernet Sauvignon.

This is a blend of 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc and 10% Malbec. 

This release was ted 92 points by James Suckling and 91 Points by Wine Advocate. 

Bright ruby colored, medium bodied, fruity, round bright vibrant tangy red and black plum and berry fruits with notes of floral, clove spice and sweet tobacco and hints of oak on the moderate tannins laced finish. 

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3989361

After dinner we were treated to sumptuous tira misu and fresh berries.