Châteaux Clerc Milon and d'Armailhac Pauillacs

Duo of Château Clerc Milon and Château d'Armailhac Pauillacs for grilled tenderloin dinner

Hosting colleague Jeff from Seattle, Linda prepared grilled beef tenderloin with baked potatoes, fried mushrooms and onions. Touring our wine cellar, Jeff requested Bordeaux to accompany our dinner so I pulled two Pauillacs, Clerc Milon and d'Armailhac adjacent and affiliated properties from two disparate vintages for the occasion.

We toured the region during our Bordeaux Medoc Wine Experience 2019 last summer and drove around the Paulliac appellation to see the Baron Philippe de Rothschild properties, Mouton Rothschild, Clerc Milon and d'Armailhac.

Château Clerc Milon Cinquieme Grand Cru Classe (5me cru classé ~ Fifth Growth) Pauillac Bordeaux 1989

At three decades, this was showing its age in the color and opacity as it was starting to take on a slight grayish hue. The foil and label were pristine and the fill level was ideal. The cork however turned out to be partially saturated and loose providing a challenge to extract. I was able to successfully do so using an Ahso two pronged cork puller. Had one applied a traditional cork screw, it would have most assuredly pushed the cork into the bottle. Even inserting the Ahso did so and it took considerable effort and multiple attempts to insert the prongs. Extracting the cork also took considerable effort as it crumbled apart as it was coming out.

Time to drink as this is past its prime and starting to wane. 

The 1989 vintage was a great year with a warm spring and early flowering followed by heat throughout the summer, leading to Clerc-Milon's earliest harvest of the twentieth century to that point.

The resulting Clerc-Milon was on par with the premier first growth flagship Mouton-Rothschild and even preferred by Robert Parker for the first time in his many years as a critic resulting a great value in comparison

The 1989 Clerc-Milon is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Franc.

This vintage Clerc Milon was rated 93 points by Wine Spectator, 91-93 points by Neal Martin's Wine Journal and 90 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate.

Garnet colored with a slight gray hue, medium-full bodied, earthy nose, dense, concentrated ripe black plum and currant fruits with forest floor, leather, hints of smoke with smooth supple full round tannins on the long full finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2898

Château d'Armailhac Cinquieme Grand Cru Classe (5me cru classé ~ Fifth Growth) Pauillac Bordeaux 2016

From the same ownership, Château d'Armailhac is another label in the family of brands of Baron Philippe de Rothschild 2016 sourced from near contiguous properties just outside the village of Pauillac in the northern Medoc.

The 2016 is a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. 

This release got 95 points from James Suckling, 94 points from Jeb Dunnuck, 93 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, Vinous and Decanter and 90 points from Wine Enthusiast. 

Vinous says "This fulfills all my expectations and is quite simply one of the best d’Armailhac wines ever made."

Dark, deep bright garnet purple colored, medium full-bodied, firm, structured and concentrated bright floral, vibrant fruits of blackberry and plums  with tones of violets, graphite, cassis, tea, earthy cedar and earthy notes of herbal nuances with firm, gripping tannins on a long earthy finish. Needs some time to integrate and settle.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2352929

 

Horizontal Tasting - 2004 Bordeaux Alongside Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Horizontal Tasting - 2004 Bordeaux Alongside Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon


Comparison tasting of 2004 'horizontal' - wines from the same vintage - Bordeaux and Silver Oak Alexander Valley reveals a study in terroir, styles and aging profiles. Wines tasted are below, shown in tasting order based on anticipated weight and complexity which proved to be appropriate:

• Chateau Giscours Grand Cru Classe Marqaux 2004
• Chateau Leoville Barton St Julien 2004
• Chateau Clerc Milon Pauillac 2004
• d'Armailhac Grand cru Classe Pauillac 2004 
• Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

The Giscours, Leoville Barton, and Silver Oak were poured from magnums and decanted three to fours hours earlier. 

The highlights of the evening for me were the Leoville Barton and the Silver Oak which were both bright, complex, smooth, polished and flavorful indicating peak readiness to drink in their seventh year despite very different styles and tasting profiles. Not surprising, contrasting the Leoville Barton was the Clerc Milon which while balanced and full was still a bit closed and tight revealing a longer aging profile needing more time to open and fully reveal itself. The Giscours was next in my rankings followed by the d'Armailhac.

Chateau Leoville Barton Cru Classe St Julien Bordeaux 2004

Consistent producer of high quality good value ageworthy Bordeaux.

Bright floral notes, nicely balanced layers of black raspberry, black cherry, hints of leather and touch of smoke. Full bodied intense flavors yet delicate, polished and a silky fine tannin finish.  
RM 91 points. 

Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 

Surprisingly complex but refined and polished with layers of black berry fruits accented by cola, almond, nutmeg, sweet soft oak with layers of spice and vanilla on a long aromatic silky tannnin finish.
RM 90 points.

Chateau Clerc Milon Pauillac 2004

Second label of revered first growth Chateau Mouton Rothschild. Complex, firm with rather subdued black fruit flavors of blackberry, black cherry, black currant with hint of cassis, touch of leather and earth. Still a bit closed suggesting need for more time to open and reveal itself.
RM 89 points.  

Chateau Giscours Grand Cru Classe Marqaux 2004

Medium-full bodied, complex, dark berry and black cherry fruits with tone of slightly tart cherry and hint of raspberry, cassis, spice, tones of leather and pencil lead on the medium finish.
RM 88 points.

d'Armailhac Grand Cru Classe Pauillac 2004 

Third label of esteemed Chateau Mouton Rothschild, behind second label Clerc Milon. Medium-full bodied, less complex and lacking the polish and integration of the others, a bit flabby but forward black berry and black cherry fruit flavors with a layer of  mocha, cedar, and hint of camphor on a slightly firm spicy and acidic finish.
RM 87 points. 


Tasted with medley of artisan cheeses and over dinner of mixed green salad, beef tenderloin, twice baked potatoes and green beans. Dinner hosted at Bill and Beth C's with Dan & Linda, Bob & Gloria, and L. Chocolate cake and berries to finish commemorating my birthday!


Terroir - from Wikipedia - Terroir comes from the word terre "land". It was originally a French term used to denote the special characteristics that the geography, geology and climate of a certain place bestowed upon particular varieties. Agricultural sites in the same region share similar soil, weather conditions, and farming techniques, which all contribute to the unique qualities of the crop. It can be very loosely translated as "a sense of place," which is embodied in certain characteristic qualities, the sum of the effects that the local environment has had on the production of the product. Terroir is often italicized in English writing to show that it is a French loanword. The concept of terroir is at the base of the French wine Appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC) system that has been the model for appellation and wine laws across the globe. At its core is the assumption that the land from which the grapes are grown imparts a unique quality that is specific to that region.