Showing posts with label Leoville Poyferré. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Leoville Poyferré. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 21, 2025

UGCB 2022 Vintage Release Tour 2025 Comes to Chicago

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) North American 2022 Vintage Release Tour Chicago Preview Tasting 2025  

Once again, the UGC Bordeaux (Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB)), annual release tour visited Chicago this week unveiling/showcasing their 2022 vintage release wines. This was the same event we attended and featured last year in these pages in this post - UGCB 2021 Vintage Release Tour 2024 Comes to Chicago, excerpted below.. 

The Union is the association of 132 members of the top premier wine producer estates from the most prestigious Bordeaux appellations. In cooperation with distributors, brokers and merchants they host over 80 events in fifteen countries visiting 65 cities to present their wines to some 50,000 or so professionals and wine lovers each year around the world.

Their events go beyond France, taking them throughout Europe (Germany, UK, Belgium, Switzerland, Italy, Netherlands, Russia), to this tour of North America (US and Canada) , and to Asia (China, Japan, South Korea, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Singapore). 

This year's UGCB US TOUR - 2025 started in Miami at The Hangar, then to the fabulous Cipriani on 42nd Street in New York, prior to coming to The Drake Hotel in Chicago, then heading on to San Francisco City View @ Metreon, and finishing at Vibiana in Los Angeles. Previous years have also included stops in Toronto and/or  Montréal.

'Pour Boys' Tom C, me, Ernie and Lyle with 
UGCB Ambassadors Chloe Morvan and
Marie Damouseau, from 2020.

As in previous years, members of our 'Pour Boys' wine group helped conduct the event in Chicago, one of the highlight of my wine exploits throughout the year.

As in years past, except the Covid disrupted alternate site two years ago, at Chicago Union Station Grand Hall, which actually was delayed to June, the gala event was held in the Drake Hotel in the magnificent grand Gold Coast Ballroom (shown below).


The Pour Boys serve as volunteers, working with the host organizers Mike Wangbickler, Kat Stark and the Balzac Communications team, and the UGCB Bordeaux events team.

According to the routine, we help prepare the room and the wines, checking in trade registrants, and standing in for producers who faced travel or other disruptions, presenting and pouring their wines.

We start early in the day unpacking and preparing the wines, carefully setting up each wine station for the arrival of the producers' and their representatives for presenting and pouring the wine during the afternoon session.  

Often over the years, some producers or their representatives were delayed in travel or had other disruptions and we were called in to service to pour their wines, hence, we earned our moniker, the 'Pour Boys'. This was our sixteenth year working this gala annual event.

Pour Boys Rick and Lyle

As usual, close to a hundred producers were represented at the event that was attended by over five hundred members of the trade, merchants, hospitality and media.

As is their custom in the third week of January, this annual roadshow is a marathon trek across North America by the producers and their representatives, offering wine professionals and oenophiles the chance to meet the Bordeaux principles, winemakers, ambassadors and commercial directors.

As always, we appreciate the investment in time and effort expended by the producers and their representatives coming to visit Chicago. It provides a wonderful opportunity to meet them firsthand and hearing their perspectives on their brand, approach to crafting their vintage release, their history, businesses, and their past vintages and of course, the current release.

As collectors and holders of not-insignificant collections of Bordeaux wines dating back four decades, we Pour Boys hold as many as several dozen or more vintages of some of these labels. Meeting the owners, family members, producer / winemaker / representatives of these great Chateaux is a great privilege and offers a collector the chance to learn more about their investment and wines.

As such, I tend to focus on and taste those wines that I know well and hold verticals (multiple vintages of the same label), of which my wine buddies and I have holdings.

Despite the extreme inclement weather this day in Chicago, this years event was well attended to a full house.


After working to set up the event, register attendees and fill in for late arriving producers' due to travel delays, we’re able to partake of the release tasting.

The 2022 vintage is a blockbuster, possibly the best in a decade, on par with the recent stellar 2009 and likely to be heralded with legendary vintages such as 1982 and others.

The 2022 year was one of the hottest and driest growing seasons in the history of the region. The early heat in the spring set up the vines for the brutally hot and dry summer growing season, which also included some critical rains in June and a few storms in August. Producers learned from the continuous hot and dry vintages of 2018, 2019 and 2020 how to moderate or cope with the intense sun, such as leaving fuller canopies of leaves to shade grapes. 

Despite the rather extreme weather conditions, the vintage produced dark dense fruit resulting in opulent and structured wines, beautifully balanced, smooth, supple, polished and elegant, bursting with fresh ripe fruit flavors that were approachable, even when young, upon release. 

It was reported that all the Bordeaux varietal grapes — Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, faired well. Berries were small, skins were healthy and the juice was concentrated. While acidities are on the lower side, the wines show remarkable freshness and purity, aromatics are right and vibrant and textures are smooth and polished. 

As is the case as I have written before, in such great vintages, ‘all boats rise with the tide”, so that there should be many stunning wines available, even at the more modest price points as the gap between grand vin and second wines may be narrower in 2022

As usual, we focused on the producers that we own and collect, with particular interest in those that we visited during our last trip to Bordeaux, as well as those we are targeting for our next or futures visits to the region. 

Highlights of wines that stood out were the usual suspects from my perennial favorites - Pichon Baron, Lynch Bages, then Pichon Lalande, in Paulliac, in order of more structured and concentrated to less so. 

Pauline Gibert Pichon Baron

In St Julien, Gruaud Larose, then Leoville Barton followed by Leoville Poyferre, and finally Beychevelle, which showed particularly well with extraordinary bouquet and polished ripe fruit. 

As is customary, the Barton wines were represented by Managing Director Lilian Barton Sartorius who represents the 9th generation of the Barton family. These days the property is managed by Lilian assisted by her husband, Michel Sartorius, and their grown children, Damien and Melanie, of the 10th generation, who are taking on increasing responsibility in the business. Here she is shown with Sara Lecompte-Cuvelier of Leoville Poyferre.


The Branaire Ducru was the finest I’ve ever experienced in memory, perhaps reflecting, in addition to the vintage, this being the first vintage produced in the completely renovated production facilities, with double the number of vats, with which to be more discriminating and granularly focused in the production and ultimate blending.  

Francois-Xavier-Maroteaux
Owner Château Branaire-Ducru

Pomerol showed well with Clinet being a standout. I regret I didn’t get to taste two favorites, Chateaux Canon and Canon-Le-Gaffeliere, as they were gone by the time I got  to their table, late in the day. 

The ever dapper Stephan von Neipperg,
(Château Canon-La-Gaffelière) 


Domaine Chevalier showed well from Pessac-Leognan, presenting a new label/branding for the historic anniversary vintage.

Hugo Bernard - Domaine Chevalier

Earlier UGCB and related events are featured in earlier unwindwine blogposts

Most recently .. 

UGCB 2020 Vintage Release Tour Chicago 2023

Grand Cru Bordeaux 2019 Vintage Release Tour Chicago

 UGCB 2017 Release Tour Chicago 

https://twitter.com/ugcbwines 



Friday, February 25, 2022

OTBN 22 Kick-off dinner at 48 Wine Bar

OTBN 2022 Gala Weekend Kick-offs of with tasting and dinner at Forty-Eight Wine Bar

Our Pour Boys wine group convened for our annual homage to the vinous vinifera in the ritual that has come to be known as OTBN – Open That Bottle Night. In planning this year’s event, wisdom prevailed and we chose to adjust our rhythm and head south for the mid-winter event vs hosting the event in Chicago. We’ll then pivot to host the summer event, that we held last year in Florida, in Chicago, to align with the seasons.

In that regard, Bill and Beth C graciously opened their home and hosted OTBN at their home in Seabrook Island, SC. In the custom and spirit of OTBN, we Pour Boys, pull from our cellar collections bottles that we had been holding for a special occasion, whose time had not yet come. Alas, OTBN – Open That Bottle (To) Night is for gathering and enjoying such bottles. 

Since we traveled to what became a weekend getaway, our usual annual one-night dinner affair became a weekend of three tasting sessions. 

For the gala weekend, I selected four vintage Cabernets, from select birthyears, or designated select producers, or single vineyards, and a twenty year old dessert wine from our cellar collection.

We kicked off the weekend with a perfect wine focused dinner at FortyEight wine bar in Freshfields Village Kiawah, Island. They offer 48 different wines by the glass - WBTG, dispensed from interactive WineStations, where one can select to taste (1 oz.), a half glass (3 oz.), or a full glass (6 oz.) pours. The range of wines available covers American, French, Italian and other labels ranging from modest to ultra-premium offerings. This is similar to the offerings at the Delray Beach Wine Room Kitchen Wine and Cheese Bar in Delray Beach (FL) where we met last year for a gala dinner - see Pour Boys Wine Dinner at Del Ray Beach Wine Kitchen . Bill and I visited there again when we were in town earlier the previous year and had a Spectacular Wine Cheese Pairing featuring Cliff Lede Poetry 2004.

In addition to the self service WineStation dispensed WBTG, they also offer 840 wines by the bottle, carefully selected by the FortyEight wine team featuring every major varietal and every major wine region; and 48 local and regional craft beers, hand selected seasonally. The wines can be purchased retail for take away or consumption on the premises. 

These available wine selections extend from every day sippers to super ultra-premium First Growth labels including Chateau Haut Brion, Latour, Lafite Rothschild and Mouton Rothschild - with numerous vintages on offer for several labels. 

The premium selections also include top flight American labels such as Peter Michel, Shafer Hillside Select, Bond and others. 

They also offer a full menu featuring local, regional, and international cheeses; savory charcuterie platters; seasonal salads and paninis; a full menu of entrees and flatbreads, and local artisan chocolates and other delectable tempting sweets. 

I took advantage of the wide selection and premium WBTG offerings to taste several labels including two near 100 point wine releases - Chateau Leoville Poyferre 2018 and 2010 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino.

Château Léoville-Poyferré, St-Julien 2018 

We visited Château Léoville Poyferré, St Julien-Beychevelle Bordeaux during our trip to the appellation in 2019. 
Our private tour of the winery and chateau and tasting were one of the highlights of our trip to the region. We tasted this vintage pre-release from a barrel sample as part of our tasting flight at that time. 
 
We also had fun meeting Brand Ambassador, our host, tour guide and server, Claire Ridley, when she visited Chicago as part of the UGCB release tour 2019. 

This label tasting was WOTN - Wine of the Night, for me and was arguably the Best of the entire OTBN weekend - certainly so in my book.

This release was awarded a superlative 100 points by Jeb Dunnuck. It received 97 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate,  James Suckling, Vinous, Wine Enthusiast as well as *Cellar Selection*, and Wine Spectator which also recognized it, *Ranked #7 Wine Spectator Wine of the Year 2021* - an extraordinary concensus of a spectacular rating. It also received 96 points from Decanter.

Jeb Dunnuck said this was "Every bit as good as the 2009 (that also received 100 points), and I think better than the 2010 and 2016, the 2018 Château Léoville Poyferré is a total thrill that tops out my scale."

This is a blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc, aged in 80% new oak barriques. 

Dark garnet purple colored, full bodied - complex, concentrated yet smooth, polished, balanced and elegant - flawless, a symphony of plum, blackberry and black raspberry fruit flavors with notes of clove spice, cacao, tobacco, graphite with silky smooth polished tannins on the seductive finish. 

RM 97 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3274427

https://www.leoville-poyferre.fr/en/

Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino 2010

What a treat to taste two 97+ point wines side by side. This label vintage release was also rated 99 and 96 points and was considered favorite and WOTN by Lyle, and some of the others. 

This is from the Italian appellation of Brunello di Montalcino, regarded as one of Italy’s best appellations. Located in south central Tuscany below Chianti, the wines of Brunello di Montalcino DOCG are made of a Sangiovese clone called “brunello,” which means “little dark one,” a reference to the brown tones in the skin of the grape. Unlike some Tuscan appellations that allow other grapes to be blended with Sangiovese, Brunello di Montalcino appellation rules require 100% Sangiovese.

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG has to be made 100% with Sangiovese grapes alone, and made only within the Montalcino municipality area. It can only be sold in the market from January 1 of its fifth year after harvest. Prior to that, the wine cannot legally be called Brunello di Montalcino (not even in the cellar): it is simply "red wine to become Brunello di Montalcino DOCG".

Montalcino is a picturesque, hill-top town that was not especially well known for wine production until the mid-19th century, when a local vineyard owner isolated the brunello clone and planted it. Other growers followed suit. Nevertheless it wasn’t until the 1970s that wine enthusiasts started paying attention to Brunello di Montalcino, which by then was becoming an outstanding wine. 

Today there are 120 estates in the DOCG, up from about 25 estates in 1975. Brunellos in general are bigger, darker, more tannic and more powerful wines than Chiantis or most other Sangioveses. By law they must be aged for four years, and two of those years must be in wooden barrels.  

The Valdicava estate in Montalcino, Tuscany, dates to 1953 when Bramante Abbruzzese returned to the property in Montalcino where his ancestors were sharecroppers centuries before. In 1967 he founded the Consorzio di Brunello. today, the estate is owned and operated by his grandson, Vincenzo Abbruzzese who also serves as winemaker who has transformed Valdicava into one of Montalcino’s most collectible producers. The 300-acre estate has nearly 70 acres planted to vineyards, 100% planted to Sangiovese.  

The estate’s flagship wine is the Brunello Riserva Madonna del Piano, and it also produces this Brunello Valdicava and a lesser Rosso di Montalcino. Total production is about 6,000 cases annually.

This 2010 vintage release is considered by connoisseurs as one of the best vintages so far for Brunello di Montalcino.  Vincenzo Abruzzese, owner and winemaker of Valdicava, makes no exception, saying 2010 “the perfect vintage” for Montalcino - the vintage of the century and certainly the best one he has ever made. 

Vincenzo believes that 2010 has become a reference point in the history of Brunello di Montalcino. The lack of any climatic excesses combined with an extended growing season resulted in a wine that, while packing power and opulence, is elegant with each of its elements – alcohol, sugar concentration and acidity – in perfect harmony. For Vincenzo, the combination of these different qualities makes it one of greatest Brunellos ever made.

This vintage release was awarded 99 points by James Suckling, 96 points by Wine Spectator, *Collectibles*, 94 points by Vinous, and  93 points by  Robert Parker's Wine Advocate.

Bright ruby colored, medium-full bodied, tangy vibrant blackberry, sweet black cherry and plum fruits are accented by notes of flowers, licorice, mushroom, tobacco and leather with layers of ultra-fine tannins and hints of tangy acidity with long big yet silky tannins.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1634731

http://www.valdicava.it/

During the evening, we also had the chance to taste a assorted flight of other red and white wines.

We feasted on an extensive cheese and charcuterie plate of six cheeses and six meats served with fresh baguettes and bacon jam - St James Brie, VAT 17 World Cheddar, LaClare Maple Bourbon Goat, Fig & Honey Chevre, Manchego Viejo, and Clemson Blue cheeses. For the meats - Truffle Salami, Proscuitto Parma, Heritage Farms Smoke Andouille, Aromatic Pepper Clove Bresaola, and Black Pepper Pate.

 I tasted the following additional reds:

Turnbull Napa Valley Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 2016

Turnbull consider themselves farmers as much as winemakers with four estate vineyards in Oakville and Calistoga that represent a range of attributes and expressions of the Napa Valley from the valley floor to the steepest of slopes high above Oakville. They profess these vineyards to reflect some of the best terroir the Napa Valley has to offer, providing a "true fingerprint of origin and place."
 
The Turnbull estate sits right on St. Helena highway in Oakville, with its small-scale tasting spaces nestled among the vineyard and gardens with beautiful views of the surrounding valley.

The label is sourced from Turnbull's Amoenus property in Calistoga, complemented with fruit from Fortuna and Weitz Vineyards in Oakville. 

The Amoenus Vineyard in the sub-valley in the Northwestern corner of Calistoga at 460-860ft elevations and with a multitude of slopes and exposures with volcanic soils. The higher elevations and exposures face varying weather patterns and diurnal shifts with warm, late summer daytime temperatures and cooler nights that allow the wines to achieve both ripeness and balanced acidity. The 46 acre vineyard is planted predominantly with Cabernet Sauvignon plantings, with two ridge top blocks of Syrah.

The Fortuna Vineyard is a historic vineyard site from pre-Prohibition and originally sourced by the venerable Christian Brothers winery.  It sits at the base of the gently sloping Oakville Bench, on the eastern side of the Oakville appellation. The site's ancient red volcanic soils from the adjoining Vaca Range produce wines with darker red fruit notes with an identifiable spice box component that tend to be elegant and express themselves more quickly than with our other sites. The 52 1/2 acre vineyard is planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot, & Sauvignon Blanc planted planted between 1987-2017.

The Weitz Vineyard sits on the homestead of the pre-vine era Weitz cattle range and then home to the first vines planted in the area. Sitting atop the Oakville bench, with Western exposure, it is dominated by well-drained red volcanic soils that add minerality, texture and structure to the wines. Coupled with the site's generous sun exposure, the vines reach full ripeness coupled with acid retentionto produce wines with both flavor density and freshness. This site is planted predominantly to Cabernet Sauvignon with some Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Syrah and Lagrein vines as well.

This release was awarded WW 94 points by Wilfred Wong of Wine.com, 93 points, an *Editors’ Choice* by Wine Enthusiast, 92 points by James Suckling and Vinous, and 91 points by Wine Spectator. 

Decent QPR in this Napa Valley Oakville Cabernet belays its oversize and weighty bottle packaging.

Winemaker Notes - Aromatics of densely brooding blackberries—seemingly right off the vine—compel the nose into deeper aromatics of dried cassis, toasted almonds,and roasted herbs. The palate reveals a dark baritone of plumpness, highlighted by tones of plum, sage, and muddled strawberries. Through themid-palate of generous width and softness, this resonant darkness persists to a finish of focus and lasting flavor.

 Garnet colored, medium-full bodied, bright plum, blackberry and hint of  cranberry and black cherry fruits with notes of dusty herb and cassis with bright acidity on the tangy slightly astringent tannin. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3126890

Hall Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 

Our visits and private tastings at the Hall Estate Winery in Rutherford have been highlights of many of our Napa Valley Wine Experiences. 

We discovered Hall and their Napa Valley wines during our first visit to the Hall St Helena winery when it first opened back in the nineties. We then visited their magnificent new winery and cellar and tasting room in Rutherford during our Napa Valley Wine Experience back in 2003. 

We did a tour and Hall Rutherford Winery Estate Appellation Tasting in 2017 and another Hall Napa Valley Rutherford Estate Tour and Tasting in 2013.

We've collected this label for going more than two decades along with their premium and some of their ultra premium labels, available only to wine club members through their allocations, and before that, single vineyard designated labels from the Sacrashe Vineyard in the late nineties.

This is their basic Cabernet sourced from their vast range of sites across Napa Valley. Hall have established themselves as one of the top brands and leading producers across the Napa region with a broad portfolio of twenty different Cabernet Sauvignons from premium to ultrapremium labels.

Hall source grapes from over 500 acres of vineyards across the Napa Valley. Roughly half of the grapes Hall uses come from their ten Estate Vineyards, the other half come from over seventy vineyards from around the valley. 

Halls's estate vineyards stretch across the entire Napa Valley region from the valley floor to the hilltops, encompassing approximately 150 acres planted to the classic Bordeaux varietals.

Winemaker Notes for this label - This wine is dark garnet in color with layers of blackberry, black cherry, sweet spice, black pepper, and oak. On the palate, there is bold, dark fruit at the forefront of this full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon that gives way to flavors of cocoa, nutmeg and graphite. The tannins are chewy and powerful, balanced by refreshing acidity on the long finish. 
 
This label release was awarded 94 points by Jeb Dunnuck and 93 points by Wilfred Wong of Wine.com, and RP 92 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate,WE 90 points by Wine Enthusiast.
 
Deep garnet-purple colored, full-bodied and firmly structured but nicely balanced, round blackcurrant and blackberry fruits with earthy, tapenade, and black olive-like aromas and flavors, hints of tar and tree bark with grainy tannins and soft acidity on a smooth polished lingering finish. 

RM 92 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2717487

https://www.hallwines.com/

For our dinner entrees, Linda had the Diver Scallops and I had the pan seared Salmon with white bean puree and stewed tomatoes. With our entrees we tasted the following whites.

Stewart Sonoma Mountain, Farina Vineyard Chardonnay 2019

Stewart Cellars in Younville, Napa, is a family affair. Founded in 2000 by Michael Stewart after he sold his technology company in Texas, Stewart Cellars is the collaborative project of founder Michael Stewart, his son James Stewart, daughter Caroline Stewart Guthrie, and son-in-law Blair Guthrie. Together, they oversees all aspects of the winery’s operations: James, an artist who left behind a career in television and music for hands-on work in sales, marketing and distribution; Caroline, leads the day to day operations along with each wine’s development; and Blair, the winemaker who works closely alongside their consulting winemaker to capture the signature terroir of Stewart’s premier vineyards and vineyard sources. 

With a post-graduate degree in oenology and viticulture, Blair got his start in wine in 2009 as a harvest intern at Paul Hobb’s Crossbarn where he met his wife, Caroline Stewart. Together the couple moved to South Australia, where Blair assumed a job as assistant winemaker at BK Wines. Returning to Napa Valley in 2012, Blair was assistant winemaker at Kunde Family Winery for three years. He joined Stewart Cellars as winemaker and vineyard manager in 2015. 

Stewart have lasting relationships with viticulturists of some of the most respected vineyards across the Napa and Sonoma Valleys. From these they craft vineyard designated wines to showcase the terroir of their respective vineyards. They have a portfolio of Cabernet, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and several red blends sourced from some of the finest vineyard sources in Napa and Sonoma. 

This single vineyard designated label is sourced from the Farina Vineyard in the Sonoma Mountain appellation.

The Sonoma Mountain appellation is part of the greater Sonoma Valley which is comprised of four distinct Sonoma County sub-appellations - Carneros, Moon Mountain District, Sonoma Mountain and Bennett Valley. It is defined more by altitude than geographical outline, the Sonoma Mountain appellation occupies elevations between 400 and 1,200 feet on the northern and eastern slopes of the actual Sonoma Mountain. The mountain reaches a peak of 2,400 feet; its hills separate the cooling winds of Petaluma Gap from the Sonoma Valley.

Winemaker notes for this label - "With subtle hints of ripe peach and graham cracker shining through on the nose, our 2019 Sonoma Mountain Chardonnay is both elegant and bright.  Featuring flavors of mandarin and meyer lemon, this medium-bodied Chardonnay is balanced between the Burgundian and California style.  The palate is long and the finish highlights the French oak, circling us back to the beginning."

This was ideally paired with the Diver Scallops. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4094132

https://www.stewartcellars.com/ 


Cliff Lede Sauvignon Blanc 2019

With my dinner I drank one of my perennial favorite whites, Cliff Lede Sauvignon Blanc 2019.

After dinner, back at Bill and Beth's, Bill opened a Dunn Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1998, in magnum, and for the ladies, a Hall Vineyards Bergfeld Napa Cab 2013 and Diamond Mountain Cabernet 2014.

As is customary ... here 's a compendium of our previous Pour Boy's OTBN galas.

Pour Boys' OTBN 2020 ~ Open That Bottle Night

Pour Boys OTBN 2019 - Open That Bottle Night

Pour Boys OTBN 2018 - Open That Bottle Night

Pour Boys OTBN 2016 - Open That Bottle Night 

Pour Boys OTBN 2015 - Open That Bottle NightBordeaux Anchors OTBN 2015

Pour Boys OTBN - Open That Bottle Night 2014

Pour Boys OTBN 2013 - Open That Bottle Night 2013

Pour Boys OTBN 2012 - Open That Bottle Night