Showing posts with label Pauillac. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pauillac. Show all posts

Saturday, February 19, 2022

Haut-Bages-Libéral with Beefsteak Dinner

Haut-Bages-Libéral with Beefsteak Dinner

We had leftovers from the fabulous tomahawk ribeye beefsteak dinner last night and I opened a Bordeaux blend as I mentioned in my blogpost from that dinner

Exactly as I hoped or expected, this was an ideal complement to the beefsteak, sauteed spinach and twice baked potato.

At seventeen years, the fill level, label, foil and most importantly, the cork, were all in perfect condition. Robert Parker, wrote in his Wine Advocate (219) in June 2015, "Drink it over the next 15-20 years. Drink 2015-2035."

This is likely at the apex of its drinking window, not likely to improve further with aging, but with much life left, perhaps a decade or more. 

At one point in my long tenure of collecting fine wines, I realized I consumed many of my Bordeaux too early, at too young an age. Now, with a deeper and broader cellar spanning decades, I can wait to consume a wine like this at its peak for maximum enjoyment. 

Of course, there is fun and enjoyment in consuming a wine over the course of its life, if one is fortunate enough to have numerous bottles of the same vintage label. I've written about some such experiences, where after consuming much or most of my collection of a particular wine, it starts to open and evolve to reveal its total character and potential. 

Upon release, back in April 2008, Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (176) wrote, "Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022". Based on his initial review and assessment, we consumed this at its apex.

Never-the-less, tonight, this was immensely enjoyable, an ideal pairing with the dinner, so as to amplify the enjoyment of both. And, notably, it was better and more memorable than my recollections from earlier tastings of this label when it was in its youth.

We dropped in at the estate Haut-Bages-Libéral during our visit to Pauillac in 2019. It sits on the edge of town as you approach from the south, abutting the legendary estates of Pichon Lalande, Pichon Baron and Chateau Latour. 

 The Liberal family had run the estate since the early eighteenth century. In the early days, as wine brokers, they would sell most of the crops to the Netherlands and Belgium. 

As time passed, fine wine connoisseurs recognized and collected wines from the best estates and soils of the Pauillac area. Notably, half of the vineyard of this 1855 classified fifth growth is next to Château Latour, and the other half is behind Château Pichon Baron, located on the higher part of the place called 'Bages',  the large plateau south of Pauillac. 

The property is part of a broad portfolio of producers, from Bordeaux as well as Sonoma in California, owned by Claire Villars Lurton, who was born into the winegrower's family, and her husband Gonzague Lurton, whose family also owned several notable producers' labels. 

Claire Villars Lurton lived in Paris, where she had a master's degree in chemistry and physics and was preparing a thesis in physics, when her parents died in an accident in 1992. She gave up her studies and returned to Bordeaux to join her grandfather Jacques Merlaut to get actively involved in the management of the family properties, and continue the work of her mother Bernadette Villars Merlaut.

Claire took control of Château Chasse-Spleen, which sits atop the hierarchy of the Cru Bourgeois classification. At the same time, she studied vine growing and oenology at the University of Bordeaux. 

In 1994, she married Gonzague Lurton, the owner of Château Durfort-Vivens, a 2nd Classified Growth in Margaux. Together, they purchased Château Domeyne, in Saint-Estèphe in 2006. In 2012 they acquired the Trinité Estate vineyard in Sonoma County, Northern California, where they produce the Acaibo label and brand.

Since 2000, Claire has managed her family owned properties; Château La Gurge, Château Ferrière and Château Haut-Bages Libéral in Pauillac.

Château Haut-Bages-Libéral, Grand Cru Classe' Pauillac 2005

As noted above, at seventeen years, the fill level, label, foil and most importantly, the cork, were all in perfect condition. 

This label release of the 2005 Haut-Bages-Libéral, Pauillac was awarded 92-94 points Wine Enthusiast, 93 points by Wine Spectator, 91 points by Vinous, and 90 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate.

Pleasant, enjoyable drinking, there is great QPR - quality price ratio, in this fifth growth Grand Cru Classe' Bordeaux.

Bright garnet colored, medium-full bodied, full, round, nicely balanced blackberry, black currant and ripe cherry fruits accented by herbs, spice box, notes of tobacco, anise and hints of cedar and creosote on a tangy acidity, smooth silky tannin laced lingering finish. 

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=224097

http://www.hautbagesliberal.com/

 


Saturday, January 15, 2022

Pour Boys Wine Dinner features Dual Pauillacs

Pour Boys Wine Dinner features Dual Pauillacs and favored St Emilion and Napa Merlot

Fellow 'Pour Boy' Dr Dan and Linda came over for beef tenderloin dinner and we opened a pair of a special Pauillac label from Château Duhart-Milon.

We reminisce about this label; it anchored a mixed case of wine we gave Dan for a wedding present in a stocked wine rack forty years ago. Being newbies to fine wine at that time, I left the price tags on all the bottles so he could discern every-day wines from once-a-week or once-a-month wines. 

Château Duhart Milon Rothschild (Lafite) was the or one of the most expensive labels in that flight. Dan attributes that gift selection as part of his introduction and indoctrination to fine wine.

Tonight, I pulled from the cellar a 2003 and 2004 vintage release of Duhart-Milon for our dinner, a 'mini' vertical - multiple vintages of the same label. 

Dan brought from his cellar a opposing, Right Bank Bordeaux from Château Figeac, one of our favorite and collected St Emilions. 

Prior to dinner we had a selection of artisan cheeses and ceasar salad. With the grilled tenderloin beef au jus Linda prepared roasted au-gratin potatoes, haricot verts and carrots. 

Following dinner we enjoyed Linda's incredibly delicious decadent Salted Caramel Chocolate Mug-cake dessert.

Part of the evening was spent discussing and planning this year's upcoming OTBN - Open that bottle night, our annual wine extravaganza. 

Château Duhart-Milon Pauillac Bordeaux 2004

We drove by the Duhart-Milon winery in the village of Pauillac during our Bordeaux Wine Experience in 2019.  

This release was awarded 91 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Wine Enthusiast and 90 points by Wine & Spirits. 

This is a blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon and 28% Merlot.

At seventeen years, the fill level, foil, label, and most importantly, the cork were all in ideal condition for their age. 

Dark garnet color with purple hues, medium to full-bodied, very aromatic, the fruits erupted from the bottle as soon as the cork, in perfect condition, was extracted. Expressive but only slightly austere blackberry and black currant fruits with classic Pauillac tones tobacco, creme de cassis, earth, spice and hints of cedar turning to moderate tannins and a bright fresh tangy acidity.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=118584

Château Duhart-Milon Pauillac Bordeaux 2003

This blend is 73% Cabernet Sauvignon and 27% Merlot.

Similar profile to the '04 release above being the same wine but this release was rated higher, 94 and 93 points by Robert Parker, Wine Advocate who compared to the much heralded 1982, and said "may be the finest Duhart-Milon made ... ever' and 'this is the greatest Duhart-Milon I have ever tasted.... a breakthrough effort and clearly a sleeper of the vintage".

James Suckling gave it 92-93 points and said "One of the best I have tasted from this estate." 

Those reviews were when it was about five years of age and now at seventeen, I found the '04 much better than the '03, perhaps aging differently or bottle variation, but my reviews were upside down from the pundits when comparing the two vintages. 

Parker wrote further, "Anticipated maturity: 2007-2020. Duhart is a chateau to watch as the Rothschilds (of Lafite) are making serious investments and pushing full-throttle to upgrade the quality and image of this estate." So, perhaps it is at the end of its primacy and starting to wane as it moves beyond its prime drinking window.

Jancis Robinson gave it 17/20 and write last year, "Really rather charming! At peak? But with some Lafite restraint about it. Attractive peppery edge to the sweet fruit."

I found similar profile to the '04 release above, more ruby than garnet colored, not as structured and less full fruits with slightly more acidicity on the finish. 

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=16063

Château Figeac St Emilion Bordeaux 2010

This is one of our favorite St Emilions, a collectable that is a 'signature' label that we collected for our son Ryan's birthyear, and for a vertical collection from thereon. 

We served this wine from a double magnum at son Ryan's wedding from the 1982 vintage. We hold a vertical collection of this label as well as it being part of a horizontal selection of Bordeaux from his birth year vintage. 

We served an aged 1982 Birthyear vintage of this Figeac label for a father-son dinner with son Ryan just last month. That was testimony to the long lived ageworthiness of this label in good vintage years.

Tonight's 2010 vintage release was a blockbuster for Figeac, getting 98 points from James Suckling, 97 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Vinous, and 96 points from Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator. In 2013 Wine Enthusiast gave it a "*Cellar Selection* Give this wine at least 10 years."

Dan served this wine at a dinner together at his place back in 2016 when I posted about this wine.  

I sense this wine was consumed too young back in 2016 and is just now coming of age to reveal its true character and potential. In 2013 Steve Tanzer of International Wine Cellar gave it 91 points and said, "its youthfully forbidding tannins call for at least eight years of patience. It will merit an even higher score if it blossoms in the bottle."

In 2016 I posted this below. 

Château Figeac St Emilion Bordeaux 2010

Tonight was similar to our earlier experience with this label. True to the style of the Merlot based blend, this was an appropriate opening wine, a bit softer and more approachable easier drinking than the Cabernet predominant blends.

The blend of this right bank Bordeaux is 35% Cabernet Franc, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot.

Deep ruby colored, medium-full bodied, black berry fruits accented by cedar, tobacco leaf and smoke with hints of green olive, cassis and oak turning to smooth gripping tannins on the finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1130517

Tonight, this was dark inky blackish purple colored, full bodied and dense but velvety, polished and elegant, nicely integrated black fruits with tobacco, graphite, cassis, hints of spice and cigar box on a smooth soft tannin finish. 

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1130517

https://www.chateau-figeac.com/

https://twitter.com/Chateau_Figeac/

Darioush Napa Valley Merlot 2000

To round out of flight and to complement the Merlot based Right Bank Figeac, I opened this aged vintage Napa Merlot from Darioush.

We tasted and acquired this wine when Linda and I visited the Darioush estate and did a barrel tasting with winemaker Steve Devitt at the estate while the new facility and hospitality center were being built back in 2003. 

Dan accompanied us when we attended an elegant dinner hosted by Darioush at the Everest Room in Chicago back in 2004

And, we all visited the magnificent, opulent Darioush winery in Napa during our Napa Wine Experience in 2017

I have to say this wine was the surprise of the evening, exceeding my expectations. I was concerned how it would show at twenty plus years, being from a somewhat modest vintage. 

As shown the fill level, label, foil and cork were in pristine condition; another testament to the provenance of our cellar, having held this since release. This is sourced from the Darioush Estate vineyards adjacent to the winery.

This was rated 91 points by Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator. 

Dark blackish purple colored, medium-full bodied, rich, supple concentrated black fruits, yet elegant and polished with notes of dark mocha chocolate, herbs, hints of smoke, toasty oak and vanilla, with silky tannins on a long smooth finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=682553

https://www.darioush.com/  

https://twitter.com/darioushwinery


 



Friday, December 31, 2021

Marco's Kitchen LaGrange

Marco's Kitchen LaGrange (IL) for fabulous fine dining experience


We were invited to join son Sean and Michelle and new grand-baby Lavender for an early New's Years Eve dinner at Marco's Kitchen in LaGrange (IL)

I pulled from the cellar a special aged Pauillac that we took BYOB for the occasion. 

Marco's Kitchen is new to downtown LaGrange, just south of the Metra rail. 

This was our first visit to Marco's Kitchen and we will look forward to returning again. The warm ambiance and stylish setting has a chic upbeat vibe atmosphere with a menu of delectable artfully crafted cuisine selections with hospitable service. 

Chef Marco brings 44 years of cooking and restaurant experience with an imaginative and artfully crafted international cuisine - as noted on the menu, "From Rome to the Amalfi Coast, From Paris to Barcelona, and from Napa Valley to Puerto Vallarta!".  

There is a large bakery oven in which they bake fresh breads daily.

The seating is limited, but nicely arranged and spaced to be cozy and comfortable. With limited number of tables and Covid sensitive social distance spacing, reservations are a must.

There is a limited but carefully selected winelist offering appropriate selections to accompany the menu and they provided skillful attentive BYOB service as well with quality glassware and appropriate decanting of our vintage wine in light of what follows.

Server Jorge was unfazed and handled gracefully the unruly cork of our 22 year old bottle that crumbled and came apart on extraction.

We ordered a broad selection of starters and everything was wonderful, delicious, delectable and artfully presented. 

For starters we had:

A Dozen Bevan Prime Oysters on the half shell, fresh, large. 

The highlight of the evening for me was the Chicken Liver, Shitake Mushroom Cognac Mousse Pate that was delicious and a perfect accompaniment to my aged Bordeaux. 


Gorgonzola Stuff Black Mission Figs Wrapped in Proscuitto di Parma and Escargot served in a pastry and an imaginative brown sauce. 

Our dinner entree selections were the Pan Seared Idaho Rainbow Trout Almondine (above), Oven Roasted Pistachio encrusted Australian Lamb Chops, and from the starter list, Maryland Lump Crab and Polenta Cakes, and the Pan Seared Cinnamon Chipotle Rubbed Diver Scallops (shown below).


 
There is an extensive dessert menu with several offerings of Creme Brulee, tart pastries, Tiramisu, dark chocolate fruit tartlet and a combination medley plate (shown below).   

We ordered from the winelist this Chardonnay for white wine selection - a perfect pairing with the seafood choices. 

Ramey Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2018

This is from David Ramey, one of the best known and most highly regarded winemakers in California. He is widely acknowledged to be among the pioneers who raised the bar for American winemakers and brought California to the forefront of the international wine world. 
 
David Ramey spent his early career creating benchmark wines for such wineries as Matanzas Creek, Chalk Hill, Dominus and Rudd. At Dominus Winery, Christian Moueix agreed to allow David to "make a little Chardonnay on the side".
 
David and wife Carla founded Ramey Wine Cellars in 1996. David left Rudd following the 2001 vintage to go independent but continues to consult with a number of well known wineries and brands.

Ramey's groundbreaking work with indigenous yeasts and malolactic and barrel fermentation yielded a new California style that was richer, more lush and silky smooth than previously known, a new benchmark style now emulated by many.

He produces Ramey Chardonnays from the Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley, and Carneros, as well as single vineyard efforts from the Hudson, Hyde, and Ritchie vineyards.
 
This label and vintage release combines grapes from a selection of five sites planted from 1978 to 2006, the biggest contribution from the producer's estate Westside Farms, as well as Dutton, Woolsey Road and Rochioli Allen vineyards, among others.
 
This release was awarded 95 points by Wine Enthusiast, 94 points by Wine & Spirits, and 93 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Jeb Dunnuck. 
 
Light straw colored, medium bodied, vibrant fresh, clean crisp acidity with spice and floral notes, hints of stone and citrus, almonds and white blossoms, silky with mineral and freshness on a long finish. 
 
The bright acidity was almost overpowering for standalone casual sipping but when paired with the food it was a perfect complement that amplified the enjoyment of both the food and the wine. 
 
RM 91 points.  

https://www.rameywine.com/wine-release/2018-chardonnay-russia-river-valley/

Château Pichon-Longueville Baron Pauillac Bordeaux 1999

Celebrating the New Year and for this special dinner occasion I selected and brought BYOB a special memorable wine from our cellar. Linda and I walked the grounds of the magnificent Chateau when we toured Pauillac and the Medoc of Bordeaux during our Bordeaux Wine Experience in 2019.
 

I liked this wine such that I last opened it on my birthday back in 2015. Tonight's tasting experience was consistent with the notes I published at that time when I wrote the post below.

"Following the last couple UGC Bordeaux tastings where this wine was one of the standouts, I selected this from the cellar to showcase my birthday dinner. This is classic Bordeaux at its best. Even though we PNP - pop and poured this without decanting, it immediately resonated from the glass with classic Bordeaux bouquet and flavors of dark berry fruits, graphite, violets and hints of smoky tar, tobacco and cassis. Dark ruby  colored, medium bodied, polished and nicely balanced, soft and almost delicate for a Pauillac, the tongue coating fine tannins are silky smooth on the lingering finish. At sixteen, this is likely at its prime drinking now."

This was awarded 91 points Wine Spectator and 90 points by Vinous.

Vinous wrote, "Slightly earthy, featuring tobacco, cigar box and dark fruits. Full-bodied, offering super velvety tannins and a long, rich finish." 

Tonight this showed a slight bricking on the edges indicating it is past its apex, but still drinking very nicely. Very pleasant and ideal with the pate' above. 

At 22, the cork was dry and came apart upon extraction using a traditional server's corkscrew.

In 2010 Vinous wrote: "Plenty of subtle things are going on here in the glass, with lots of wonderful fruit underneath. Can't wait on this. Showing beautifully now. Better than ever." It was probably at its peak from then through my tasting in 2016.

RM 90 points, one less than before, taking into account the aging and slight diminution in color. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2339

http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2015/05/pichon-baron-and-viader-v-1999-flight.html 

 

Sunday, December 19, 2021

Christmas features birthyear and celebration wines

Christmas Family gathering features special family birthyear and celebration wines 

The entire family gathered for a festive Christmas celebration with gifts, food, holiday treats and of course, some special celebratory wines. As we've written in these pages, over the years, we've collected a horizontal selection of birthyear wines for each of our children. We served those special vintages in large format bottles at their weddings and other gala celebrations

We still hold several bottles of those wines that are getting on in years approaching or surpassing their drinking ageworthiness and drinking windows. 

Our oldest offspring, daughter Erin is in her fortieth year and her birthyear vintage, 1981 was a modest, challenging vintage for aging potential. 
 
Indeed, we served her birthyear vintage wines from large format bottles at her wedding, fifteen years ago. At that time, we wondered how well those twenty-five year old labels would show. We served premium and super premium labels that had long lives, even in the less stellar 1981 vintage. Couple that with the fact that we served large format bottles, which extend the ageworthiness of wine, and we had a great tasting experience. See Wine Bottle Sizes...Bigger is Better - Right Bottle Sizes...Bigger (or Smaller) is Better.

Tonight, at forty years, we decided its time to open these remaining vintage wines and pulled from the cellar some of the most ageworthy labels that remain. The premier bottle we opened was Château Lafite Rothschild 1981. We also opened a Château LaGrange St Julien from the same vintage. 

Château Lafite Rothschild Pauillac 1981

We visited the Château Lafite Rothschild estate during our trip to the Bordeaux region in 2018. While we focused on touring St Julien producers, we also stopped by some of the notable estates in nearby appellation of Pauillac that we own and collect. It was a delight and reverent experience to walk the grounds and adjacent vineyards of the legendary historic estates of the Pichons, Lynch Bages and Lafite Rothschild. 

Château Lafite Rothschild is one of the five First Growth Bordeaux, and one of the most famous and collected wines in the world. 

We opted to open this label from our cellar collection as well as a lesser fifth growth that will most likely be closer to the end of, or further past the end of its drinking window. To our dismay and delight, both bottles were still presentable and holding their own, albeit clearly being in their final stages of their drinkability.

Sadly, of all the estates we visited, only one, Lafite Rothschild had security personnel come out and confront us and order us off the property.  While we deeply respect their property rights and sovereignty, it made an impression of in-hospitality and un-welcomeness, such that we will avoid the label from our collecting,  buying and tasting in the future. While Lafite is legendary, there are many alternative labels available to support. 

The Lafite Rothschild estate sits outside the town of Pauillac on the border of the appellations of Pauillac and St Estephe, on the main D2 route heading north as you exit the appellation and enter the adjoining St. Estephe. 

The Chateau is surrounded by nearly 280 acres of vineyards that are well-drained and well-exposed, with soil made up of fine deep gravel, mixed with aeolian sand on a subsoil of tertiary limestone. The vineyards are divided into three sites: the hillsides around the Château, the adjacent Carruades plateau to the west, and ten+ acres to the along the highway to the north in neighbouring Saint Estèphe.

The vineyards are planted to Cabernet Sauvignon (70%), Merlot (25%), Cabernet Franc (3%) and Petit Verdot (2%). The average age of the grapevines is 39 years old but fruit from vines younger than 10 years old are not used in the Grand Vin. This means that the average age of the vines used in the Grand Vin (Château Lafite Rothschild) is closer to 45 years. The oldest plot, called “La Gravière , was planted in 1886.

We have been collecting and tasting this legendary label for significant vintages since the 1970's, our anniversary and birthyear vintages dating back to our 1974 anniversary, and this remains one of the oldest and last remaining bottles in our collection of 'collectables'. I still remember opening the 1974 vintage back upon release and then for our a couple of milestone anniversaries at 25 years and others.

At forty years, the foil, label, fill level and importantly, the cork, were all in pristine condition.  

This was awarded 91 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate.

Back as early as 1997, Robert Parker wrote that "This wine is close to full maturity, but it is capable of holding for another two decades."

Parker wrote: "It reveals the classic Lafite bouquet of red and black fruits, cedar, fruitcake, and tobacco-like aromas. In the mouth, this medium ruby/garnet-colored wine displays a delicacy of fruit and sweet attack, but subtle, well-defined flavors ranging from tobacco, cigar box, cedar, and fruitcake. This is a savory, soft Lafite-Rothschild that is pleasing to both the intellect and the palate. (RP)  (12/1997)"

Son Ryan took great care to extract the cork completely intact using an 'ahso' two pronged cork puller. He double decanted it with a strainer to separate the black sediment. 

The color was dark garnet color with just a slight amount of bricking on the edges. The slight funky nose burned off after a short period to reveal bright cherry aromatics. Medium bodied, smooth, polished, delicate black berry and black cherry fruits with accents of cigar box, cedar, hints of leather and graphite with a tangy acidic lingering finish. 

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=12987

www.lafite.com/en/

Château LaGrange St Julien 1981

We also pulled from the cellar another 1981 vintage Bordeaux to consume before it is too late in its drinking window.

We also visited the LaGrange estate, outside the village of St-Julien-Beychevelle during our visit to Bordeaux in 2019. It sits further 'inland' from the Gironde River estuary, not far from the adjacent estates of Château Gruaud-Larose and  Château Branaire-Ducru that we toured during our visit. 

The iconic Château that is recognized from decades of labels is more picturesque than expected or imaginable as it looks out on a small lake/pond as one approaches the estate.

The estate has turned over and undergone substantial improvements over the years and the quality of product is vastly improved today. 

Château Lagrange was founded and can be found mentioned as early as the 13th century.

The reputation of the cru was established in the 18th century by the families of Brane and Arbouet, succeeded by Jean Valère Cabarrus, who built the Tuscan Tower estate in 1820. 

In the 18th century it found favour with the American ambassador Thomas Jefferson, who placed it 3rd in his rank of personal favourites. In 1842, Château Lagrange was bought and redeveloped the property modernizing the facilities and extending the vineyard and classified third cru within the Grand Cru Saint-Julien in 1855.

After a series of crises between the 19th and 20th centuries (phylloxera, world wars), the property has risen from the ashes, notably thanks to the Suntory family who bought it in 1983 and undertook a large-scale renovation.

The property was taken over by the Japanese spirits producer Suntory in the mid 1980's. They made substantial improvements to the property and facilities through 2008 and modernized the entire winemaking facilities and cellars in 2013 which should no doubt result in increasing improvements and quality of the wines. Suntory also took over and made substantial investment in additions and improvements to nearby Château Beychevelle which we also toured while in the area.

However, the easiest way to think of Chateau Lagrange is by knowing all their vines are dispersed over 2, gently sloping, gravel hillsides, well placed in the west of the Saint Julien appellation, close to Chateau Gruaud Larose and Chateau Branaire Ducru. At the peak of their vineyards, the hillsides reach up to 24 meters, which puts their vines at the highest elevation in the Saint Julien appellation.
Read more at:https://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/bordeaux-wine-producer-profiles/bordeaux/st-julien/lagrange/
However, the easiest way to think of Chateau Lagrange is by knowing all their vines are dispersed over 2, gently sloping, gravel hillsides, well placed in the west of the Saint Julien appellation, close to Chateau Gruaud Larose and Chateau Branaire Ducru. At the peak of their vineyards, the hillsides reach up to 24 meters, which puts their vines at the highest elevation in the Saint Julien appellation.
Read more at:https://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/bordeaux-wine-producer-profiles/bordeaux/st-julien/lagrange/

Château LaGrange St Julien Bordeaux 1981

This is the oldest of several vintages of this wine dating back to this birth year vintage from Erin's vintage release in the early eighties.

Château LaGrange vineyards span nearly 300 acres and rise to an elevation of 24 meters, the highest altitude in the St Julien appellation. The vineyards are planted to 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot for the reds, and 80% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Sauvignon Gris and 10% Sémillon for the whites. The vineyards have that classic St Julien pebble soil. 

This release is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot and 7% Petit Verdot. 

Earlier in its life this release was rated 92 points John Gilman, James Suckling, Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast, and 90 points by Wine & Spirits and Robert Parker. 

Like the Lafite above, we also obtained this upon release and have kept it in our cellar since. As such the bottle and label were in pristine condition - the bottle fill level being top of neck, the label and foil being in best expected condition for their age. Unlike the Lafite however, the cork of the LaGrange was partially saturated and crumbled upon extraction. Even with the 'ahso' two pronged cork puller, it came apart and required a combination ahso and corkscrew to remove completely. 

At forty years of age, this was amazingly holding on to its color and what remained of its structure and fruits albeit diminished to being minimal, it was still presentable and while modest, was pleasant drinking, especially considering its age. 

Like the Lafite above, Ryan double decanted this. It showed dark garnet colored, medium body with black berry and black cherry fruits turning to leather, tobacco and notes of black tea and tangy acidity on hte modest finish. 

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=363605

https://chateau-lagrange.com/en/

https://www.ugcb.net/en/chateau-lagrange

Château Mouton Rothschild Pauillac 1985

In the spirit of opening the Château Lafite Rothschild Pauillac Bordeaux, above, we also pulled from the cellar another classic first growth Bordeaux, this Château Mouton Rothschild 1985. 

This is tribute to son Sean's birthyear, and the recent birth of his and Michelle's daughter Lavender. The classic Mouton Rothschild artist label of the 1985 vintage features an surrealist impressionist painting of demure young maidens gazing on bunches of grapes, painted by Belgium born Flemmish Expressionist Paul Delvaux. 

We only hold this vintage of this legendary first growth label in a small format half bottle so we held off opening it today, but presented it to the new parents to hold and open together on a suitable occasion of their choosing. 

I write often in these pages about bottle sizes, large and small, here is an example of a small format bottle, suitable for an intimate tasting for two! 

Like the other bottles we acquired this upon release and have been holding in our cellar ever since. The image shown is taken from a large format double magnum of this release, to better show the artist painting as rendered on the label. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1582

https://www.chateau-mouton-rothschild.com/label-art/discover-the-artwork/paul-delvaux#

We also opened this hearty full throttled Aussie Shiraz Cabernet Blend for enjoyment by the group. 

Mollydooker Enchanted Path Cabernet Shiraz 2007

I write about the Mollydooker branding and history in more detail in this blogpost.  

Their portfolio of cartoonish labels are a family favorite and we open their premium labels, Enchanted Path and Carnival of Love on many family special occasions. 

Mollydooker is the handiwork of the (former) husband-and-wife winemaking team of Sarah and Sparky Marquis. Prior to starting their own label the pair produced under the Marquis Philips brand in partnership with their distributor Dan Philips. Previously, they produced award-winning wines for Australian producers including Fox Creek, Henry’s Drive, Shirvington, and others. The term Mollydooker is Australian slang for a left-handed person as both Sarah and Sparky Marquis are left-handed.

Since 2005, they focused exclusively on making their own exuberant wines which include a range of Shiraz labels and a variety of Shiraz/Cab/Merlot blends, as well as some adventuresome white wines such as The Violinist, a Verdelho varietal.

They source their fruit from 116 acres of vineyards at their winery in McLaren Vale where about 50 percent are planted in Shiraz, with the rest made up of Cabernet, Merlot, Semillon and Chardonnay. Most of their wines bear distinctive whimsical and humorous names and labels with cartoon characters. Never-the-less, many of their wines, while modestly-priced, Mollydookers are often highly rated. Their premium label, 'Velvet Glove' Shiraz retails for $175, however.  

As I wrote a while back when I blogged about this label, "This unique blend really works with the Cabernet adding breadth and depth to the big black inky purple colored full bodied Shiraz. The result is a powerful full bodied complex wine with concentrated forward chewy tongue coating black berry and black cherry fruits accented by ripe plum and spice, a layer of leather and hints of anise with fine silky tannins on the long finish".

RM 92 points.

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate gave this wine a whopping 95 points and wrote in their review: " The 2007 Enchanted Path, a blend of 67% Shiraz and 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, is aged in mostly American oak, 70% new. Purple/black colored, it has a brooding bouquet of spice box, toasty oak, mineral, espresso, black currant, and blueberry. Structured and powerful on the palate, this dense, rich effort requires 5 to 7 years of additional cellaring and will offer prime drinking from 2014 to 2028. 95+ Points (JSM) (2/2009)."

Wine Spectator gave it 91 points  and wrote: "Big, ripe and focused, offering a blast of cherry and plum, with a welcome floral note that lasts through the long, vivid finish. Has a touch of spice as the finish lingers against fine tannins. (HS) (10/2008)".

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=554810

www.mollydookerwines.com 


 

 

Thursday, December 9, 2021

Haut-Bages-Averous Pauillac 1989

Haut-Bages-Averous Pauillac 1989

With quiet dinner of left over beef stroganoff from last night, I pulled from the cellar this aged vintage Bordeaux, the second label of Chateau Lynch-Bages. We planned a tour of the Lynch Bages estate in Pauillac in Bordeaux during our trip to the region in 2019. Lynch Bages were kind enough to respond promptly and regretably informed us that the estate was under construction, but kindly offered a tour of their second tier Les-Ormes-de-Pez estate in St. Estephe. Not knowing the area and the distances and logistics, we ended up not scheduling the tour and visit and focused solely on the St Julien appellation

Never-the-less, we did end up driving up to and around Pauillac and stopped at the Lynch Bages estate, which was indeed, under substantial construction.

We also drove north to St Estephe and stopped at the Les-Ormes-de-Pez estate in St. Estephe, immediately across the road from the magnificent, historic Cos d'Estournel. 

We also drove around the Lynch Bages vineyards, source of the premier grand vin as well as this secondary label. 

Lynch Bages has a long history in Bordeaux, named for the geographic area where the chateau is located in Bages on the outskirts of the village of Pauillac. 

The vineyards of what was to become Lynch Bages were established by the Dejean family dating back to 1728.

In 1877, Jean-Charles Cazes, was born to Lou Janou Cazes and his wife Angelique in the town of Pauillac. The Cazes family had a long history in Bordeaux dating back to the second half of the nineteenth century. In the 1930’s, Jean-Charles Cazes, was in charge of Les-Ormes-de-Pez in St. Estephe and agreed to lease the vines of Lynch Bages. Jean-Charles Cazes eventually purchased both properties on the eve of the Second World War. Lynch Bages and Les-Ormes-de-Pez have been run by the Cazes family ever since. 

In the early 1970's, they increased their vineyards with the purchase of land from Haut-Bages Averous. By the late 1990’s their holdings had expanded to almost 240 acres. 

In 1987, Jean-Michel Cazes sold the properties to and joined the large French insurance company AXA, who built an extensive investment portfolio of quality vineyards in the Medoc of Bordeaux, Pomerol, Sauternes, Portugal and Hungary. Cazes was named director of the wine division of the extensive portfolio of wine estates including Lynch Bages of which he he took on managing director in 2006.

Chateau Lynch Bages began a massive renovation and modernization in 2017, focused on the winemaking, and technical facilities. This construction was underway when we visited in 2018. The major project, was headed by noted architects Chien Chung Pei and Li Chung Pei, the sons of the famous architect who designed the glass pyramid for the Louvre in Paris as well as several other important buildings.

The project included grape, reception center, gravity-flow wine cellar and vat rooms housing 80 stainless steel vinification vats. The extensive project was completed in 2021. The new cellars feature a glass roof, terraces with 360-degree views, and completely modernized reception areas and offices. 

The vineyards of Lynch Bages spanning 240 acres, are planted to 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. The vineyard has a terroir of gravel, chalk, and sand soils. The vineyards lie around the outskirts of the village of Pauillac, sitting on the Gironde River.

The average age of the vines is about 30 years old but they have old vines, some of which are close to 90 years old.

We hold a dozen vintages of the grand vin Lynch Bages, and a half dozen vintages of this second label dating back to the mid-eighties, including this aged vintage 1989 release. 

This is the second label of the legendary Lynch Bages. It was renamed Echo de Lynch-Bages in 2008. As the second wine, it is subjected to the same exceptional winemaking as its 'big brother,' is sourced from the same vineyards with the same terroir, albeit from the younger vines. 

The second wine is known to be approachable when young, but is capable of gaining layers of nuance and complexity as it ages. It is capable to age for decades or more as this bottle attests. 

This bottle has been held in our cellar since release and showed perfect storage with the fill level, label, capsule and cork all in remarkably perfect condition given its age of 32 years. It showed remarkable color, body, fruit and balance with very little diminution from aging.

Dark blackish garnet colored, medium to full-bodied, black berry fruits accented by smoke, damp earth, leather, floral violets, cassis, spice, oak and graphite on a lingering tangy acidic tannic laden finish. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=137370

Tuesday, June 8, 2021

Pichon Lalande and Steak at Janko's Little Zagreb Bloomington

Pichon Lalande and Steak at Janko's Little Zagreb in Bloomington, Indiana

Continuing our sojourn to Bloomington, Indiana for a college reunion gathering, we dined at the local legendary steak house Janko's Little Zagreb

Not fancy or pretentious, sited in a rustic old building just off the courthouse square, its boisterous dining room with the red and white checkerboard table clothes and Indiana sports memorabilia on the walls, (as well as their near decade of Wine Spectator Awards), Zagreb's is just good steak (and seafood) with a surprisingly intriguing and respectable wine list. They offer about 100 carefully selected bottles and a dozen wines by the glass - W-B-T-G. 

Very seldom will I find a winelist that offers no less than a half dozen choices that I am eager to try, that are also good winelist values.

Our two dinners in town, we hit both notable winelist dining establishments in Bloomington, Truffles Restaurant & Wine Bar, last night, and then tonight. 

A Bloomington institution since 1973, Janko's is an ideal reunion gathering place that we strive to dine at  every time we return to Bloomington, and it never disappoints. 

Mark S and I ordered Rib-eye steaks, which were served classic Pittsburgh style, Jane had lobster tail, and Linda ordered the grilled salmon. Everyone's entree was high quality and perfectly prepared. 

Prior to dinner we had the featured dinner salads. Afterwards we had both of the two available desserts, their regular Creamy 'New York Style' Cheesecake, and their Cheesecake 'Special', a decadent Ghirardelli Chocolate Cheesecake.

To accompany our steak course I ordered from the winelist this legendary Bordeaux, one of my favorite labels, and a repeat, mini-vertical of sorts of the bottle we had a few days earlier at our spectacular gala Pour Boys Wine Dinner at Del Ray Beach Wine Kitchen. I should note this was my third choice from the winelist but when my first two selections were sold out, I opted for this special bottle. 

As I wrote the other night, we toured the estate grounds and vineyards during our Bordeaux trip year before last. 

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Pauillac 2006

This wine is capable of being so long lived and goes through such a transformation over the decades, it is an adventure tasting at so many different stages of its life. 

At fifteen years years, the fill level, label and cork were perfect, this is likely at the apex of its drinking window, not likely to improve further, but will certainly age gracefully and transform with character as it is capable of cellaring for another two decades or more. 

This is a classic Pauillac, Bordeaux, a standout in a somewhat challenging vintage - a real delight to taste, especially with a superbly prepared steak and baked potato. 

This is my favorite and most memorable Pauillac over the ages. I still remember my first Pichon, a gift from business colleague, Jerry G from Southfield, MI, when he presented me with a bottle of the 1978 vintage back upon release during one of my trips there. I didn't fully appreciate then how classic and thoughtful that gift was! 

This release was awarded 95 points by Vinous, 94 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Wine Enthusiast, 93 points by Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar and Decanter, and 92 points by Wine Spectator

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, powerful and intense yet nicely balanced and superbly integrated blackberry and black cherry fruits with sprites of anise, smoke, dark chocolate,  clove spice and notes of violets, tobacco leaf and hints of truffles, with round full dusty fine grained tannins on a long polished finish. 

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=357057

http://www.littlezagreb.com/

@LittleZagreb - https://twitter.com/LittleZagreb 

 

 

 

 


Friday, May 14, 2021

Duo Mt Veeder Pym Rae Vineyard Napa Cabs

Duo of Mt Veeder Pym Rae Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernets comparative tasting

Fellow Pour Boy wine buddy Bill and Beth came in from Charleston for the weekend so Linda prepared grilled rib-eye beefsteaks with roasted potatoes and haricut verts. Linda prepared the steaks charred Pittsburgh style perfectly, as shown. 

Prior to dinner and ceasar salad we had a selection of artisan cheeses and fresh berries.

After dinner, Linda served Tuxedo chocolate cake with fresh berries and whipped cream.

Grilled Ribeye steaks prepared
Pittsburgh style served on French Bread

We scoured the cellar for an interesting and tasty wine flight and selected a mini-horizontal of two vintage wines from two different producers, sourced from the same estate and vineyard.

I wrote about the history of the Pym Rae Vineyard on Mt Veeder serving as the source for several producers over the years in this blogpost a while back. - https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/06/marco-di-guilio-pym-rae-vineyard-mt.html.

We've met with Robert Craig a dozen times over the years at the winery, at a ghost winery in early years, at harvest parties, and at special dinners that we have hosted or attended.  

The Pym Rae vineyard property historically was better known as the Napa Valley vineyard and estate of Robin Williams, the comedian and actor known for his stand-up routines and his many diverse film performances including Mrs Doubtfire and Good Will Hunting, for which he won an Academy Award.
 
Rick, Robert Craig and Bill at
Howell Mtn estate harvest party.
The name Pym-Rae is a hommage to the late Robin Williams and his children after whom the vineyard was named. The inspiration behind the odd sounding Pym-Rae was the combination of the middle names of Robin's two eldest children, Zachary Pym Williams and Zelda Rae Williams.
 
The Pym-Rae vineyard was originally cultivated in about 1990, long before there was an estate chateau or active winery. The grapes were sold to various local producers including Robert Craig, Vineyard 29 and Rombauer. 
 
Robert Craig was winemaker for Robin Williams wines for more than a dozen years and when he started producing wines under his own label he sourced his Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from there. We hold several decades of vintages of Robert Craig wines including this Mt Veeder label, dating back to the inaugural release in 1993.

Robert Craig's website noted the end of their supply of fruit from this vineyard; "Bob Craig consulted on the development of the late Robin Williams’ 17-acre Pym Rae vineyard in 1990 and, since then, we (have) received the majority of the fruit from this terrific property".

The entire Pym-Rae property totaled 640 acres and was purchased by Robin Williams in 1994. After his death, in August, 2014, the property was sold in January 2016 to the French Tesseron family, owners of Chateau Pontet-Canet and Tesseron Cognac. 
 
As part of the purchase they acquired homestead chateau on the property, Villa Sorriso, a massive, stunningly beautiful home, built in 2003. The 2 story Italian styled villa, 20,000 square feet, was the home of Robin Williams and included a movie theater, 5 bedrooms, 10 bathrooms, a tennis court and infinity pool in the home. Robin Williams had referred to the estate as Villa Sorriso, which is translated to “Villa of Smiles.” There the Tesserons have created the "Tesseron Estate". 
 
Last year the Tesseron Pym Rae Cabernet Sauvignon was released at $350 per bottle making these wines a terrific value in comparison.  

Marco Di Giulio Napa Valley Mt Veeder Pym Rae Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/12/close-out-2020-with-diamond-mtn.html

This 2005 Mt. Veeder Pym-Rae Cabernet was dark inky blackish garnet colored, full bodied, powerful and massively structured. Upon opening the fruit flavored exploded from the bottle into the glass. The forward rich fruits are layered with blackberry and blueberry accented by a tone of chocolate with nuances of smoke and spice, turning to an incredibly long finish.

I wish I could find more of this label and will watch for it and buy all that I can find. Watch for the new releases from Tesseron Estate as they come on the market in the coming years.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1498521

An interesting comparison of two wines from two different winemakers and producers, sourced from the same fruits. In comparison, the Di Giulio was more expressive with more vibrant fruits from the onset with aromas erupting from the bottle and glass upon opening and pouring, while the Craig was tighter and more subdued. 

Over the course of an hour the wines came closer together resembling their common terroir character and profile. Then, they drifted apart again, back to their initial profile where they revealed winemaker influences as the Di Guilo presented more vibrant fruits accented by a frame of sweet oak. 

Surprisingly, the ladies both preferred the Robert Craig over the bolder more expressive Di Giulio.

Robert Craig Napa Valley Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

The time before last that we served this particular label at one of our wine dinners, it was poignant tasting and reminiscing over this wine. We recalled tasting this wine with Robert Craig on numerous occasions and he recollecting this is his favorite of the vineyard selections. We talked of the recent end of the supplier relationship for this fruit source as the legendary Pym Rae Vineyard, previously owned by the late Robin Williams, was sold to a major French producer who acquired the sixteen hundred acre estate with plans to enter the Napa Valley marketplace. We recall Robert's reminiscences of Robin for whom he worked and managed the vineyards back in the nineties. 

From Robert we learned the inspiration for naming Robin's wine portfolio brand Toad Hollow was because, as a child he couldn't pronounce older brother Todd's name.

Robert Craig's 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon is complex and unusually high in alcohol. It displays aromas of blackberry and cassis with notes of chocolate and tobacco, while its fruit-forward palate offers flavors of mocha and licorice with a long finish and supple tannins.

Its dark garnet colored, black berry fruits with notes of smoke, hints of cassis, toasty oak, graphite, and spice notes offered in a medium-bodied, elegant, Margaux-like stylish, graceful wine. Drink it over the next decade."

Mt. Veeder, located on the eastern slopes of the Mayacamas range has a climate that is cooler than the valley floor below. This climate and the more difficult (less fertile) volcanic mountain soil influence the flavors of the wines from this region. Most known for both Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, Mt. Veeder is known for producing grapes of exceptional character and intensity.

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, complex aromatic blackberry and black cherry fruits with notes of cassis, subtle spice, black tea, cigar box with hints of cedar and anise with full, ripe tannins and a hint of minerality on a long smooth finish.  

RM 91 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=458252

https://robertcraigwine.com/

@RobertCraigWine 

Clerc Milon Pauillac 1989 

With the steak dinner entrees course we opened this aged vintage Bordeaux from Bill and Beth's son Matt's birthyear that we've been holding for such an occasion.  

The 1989 Clerc-Milon is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Franc. The vintage faced a warm spring that produced early flowering and the heat continued throughout the summer, leading to Clerc-Milon's earliest harvest of the twentieth century to that point. 

We drove past the Clerc Milon estate and vineyards during our Bordeaux Wine Experience in 2018, although we didn't stop as our focus for the trip the adjacent St Julien appellation. 

This wine was rated 93 points by Wine Spectator, 91 points by Vinous and 90 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. 

At thirty-two years, this was holding up well, testament to the ageworthiness of fine Bordeaux from a good vintage. The fill level was appropriate for the age at lower neck level. The cork was completely saturated by still sound and intact albeit nearing end of life for its utility. It was extracted after much effort and care using a ahso two pronged cork puller. I wonder if it could have been done with a corkscrew. 

This was clearly in the waning years of its drinking window, but still presentable and enjoyable, taking into account its into its entering its fourth decade. The resulting Clerc-Milon was on par with the premier first growth flagship Mouton-Rothschild and even preferred by Robert Parker for the first time in his many years as a critic resulting a great value in comparison

Garnet colored with a slight brownish hue starting to emerge, medium bodied, the ripe blackberry and black currant fruits were beginning to give way to earthy leather, creosote, tea, herbs and hints of licorice and graphite. turning to soft tannins on the long lingering finish. 

Showing its age a bit - RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2898