Family dinner opens with Washington Columbia Valley Riesling

Family dinner opens with Long Shadows Washington State Columbia Valley Riesling 

Sister Jan and Bro-n-law Bill visiting from California with daughters Jenna and Krysta and her new grand-baby to meet the cousins, the family gathered at our house, and then at Erin's for family reunion dinners. Linda prepared beef tenderloin and ribs with asparagus, whipped potatoes and mac-n-cheese, salads and desserts.

We opened a broad diverse wine flight to accompany the dinner courses and selections. Son, Ryan brought a CDP and son Alec brought a Napa Syrah to round out the flight.

For a white wine offering I opened a newly discovered label from a producer portfolio we know well.

Long Shadows Poet's Leap Columbia Valley Riesling 2019

My review of this wine is almost embarrassing, as it sounds like a promotion for this label. Never-the-less, this was a nice surprise wine find discovery! 

We've written often in these pages about Long Shadows and their Vintners' Collection, crafted from selected winemakers from around the world. We collect this portfolio as members of their wine club but discovered this other label in the wine shop this week. This one, inspired by the great wines of Germany and legendary winemaker Armin Diel, Long Shadows winemaker Gilles Nicault crafts this Poet's Leap Riesling in the style of its original winemaker.

The consulting winemaker and varietal grape specialist for this label was Armin Diel, owner of the Schlossgut Diel in Germany's Nahe region. He came to Washington in 2003 to collaborate with the Long Shadows team to make a Riesling sourced from local grapes. The legendary German was responsible for the first release by Long Shadows in 2004 sourced from grapes from Sagemoor Farms and The Benches in the Columbia Valley. 

From that first vintage, Long Shadows' director of winemaking Gilles Nicault collaborated with Armin on Poet's Leap's vineyard selection, fermentation and blending to establish a consistent style for the wine. Gilles assumed winemaking responsibility for Poet's Leap in the fall of 2016, after Armin found it increasingly challenging to make the numerous trips overseas that the project required. Gilles continues to produce this label, crafting the same style wine the team originally aspired to produce.

"My emphasis was to preserve Poet’s Leap Riesling with as much freshness as possible with a small amount of residual sugar." - Armin Diel

The 2019 Poet’s Leap Riesling is a blend of two distinct vineyards from German clones from The Benches in the Horse Heaven Hills that provide s minerality and Sagemoor Farms in the Columbia Valley, just outside of the Tri-Cities, which contributes citrus aromas and flavors and appealing acidity. Production was 4,200 cases.

This release was awarded 93 points by Owen Bargreen, a rare consensus 92 points by Wine Enthusiast, Wine & Spirits, Jeb Dunnuck, James Suckling and International Wine Reviews, and 91points by Stephen Tanzer and Connoisseurs Guide.

Wine & Spirits cited it as the Year's Best US Riesling and Sommeliers Choice Awards cited it the Wine of The Year By The Glass.

Normally, we are not Riesling fans but this exceeded all expectations and was enjoyed by everyone that tried it, being what I call a 'crowd pleaser', and providing great QPR - (Quality Price Ratio) as well. Its definitely worth picking up this label for every day casual enjoyable sipping. 

Straw colored, light medium bodied, clean, crisp, complex, aromas of apple and lime, slightly off-dry with hints of lychee, peaches and baking spice with a subtle mineral and nicely balanced acidity on the textured finish.

RM 91 points. 

Interesting, I would not consider this a wine to lay down and hold, reviewer Stephen Tanzer writes, "This wine will age for a decade or more with the petrol notes increasing as time goes on. I cannot wait to taste this wine again in 5 and 10 years time."

Owen Bargreen writes, "The 2019 Poet’s Leap Riesling is another sensational effort that is truly one of the great wines of its kind made in Washington."  This is amazing and says a lot, considering Allan Shoup, CEO and Founder of Long Shadows was CEO and Chairman of Washington State Chateau St Michelle in Woodinville, the largest wine producer in the state, and the largest Riesling producer in the world! 

Connoisseurs Guide wrotes similarly, "it is thoroughly delicious now, yet, as evidenced by last September's report on Poet's Leap Rieslings dating back to the 2008 vintage, it is a wine with a marvelously long life ahead and should evolve famously for a good decade or more."

It's a textbook picture of Washington Riesling at its best. Editors' Choice— Wine Enthusiast

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3566695

https://longshadows.com/

@LongShadowsWine

I'll continue the rest of the wine flight review in a follow on post.

 

Chateau St Michelle Harvest Select Sweet Riesling 2017

Chateau St Michelle Harvest Select Sweet Riesling 2017

Sunday night dinner at Angeli's Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria, we drank from the winelist this Chateau St Michelle Riesling. We were looking for something simpler and lighter and thought a Riesling would be appropriate. Wrong, this is was not indicated on the winelist as Sweet Riesling which turned out to be quite sweet and much fuller and heavy than a light crisp dry Kabinett style.

Part of our selection was based on the whimsical naming as we were dining with son Sean and daughter-in-law to be, Michelle. Also, we visited the Chateau St Michelle estate in Woodinville during our Seattle Culinary and Washington Wine Tour last year. 

Lastly, I seem to recall that Chateau St Michelle are one of the world's largest producers of Riesling, which may have lead to the naming confusion or lack of precision in labeling this wine (on the winelist) due a preponderance of Riesling selections from this producer.

In any event, it was a suitable and fitting selection for the seafood pasta entree selections and Angeli's delicious Mussels in white wine sauce, the best ever and a favorite selection and regular pick when dining there. But, the sweet riesling is a selection we would not do again next time.

Chateau St Michelle Harvest Select Sweet Riesling 2017

As noted above, not crisp and clean, refreshing and balanced that you might desire but then this is a moderate pricepoint, high acid, high sweetness medium full bodied, notes of peach, citrus, and apple.

The winemaker notes say "Our Harvest Select Riesling is made in a slightly sweeter style than our Columbia Valley Riesling but still shows the classic Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling character. It offers rich flavors of ripe peaches balanced with crisp Washington Riesling acidity." Notably, they call it Harvest Select Riesling (as listed on the winelist) and omit the word 'Sweet' even though the label says so. 

RM 86 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3181855

https://www.ste-michelle.com/

Napa Cabernet and White Pairing Flights Showcase Grilled Steak and Salmon dinner

Napa Cabernet and White Pairing Flights Showcase Grilled Steak and Salmon dinner

Still in process but a starter of wine journal notes... 

For a mid-summer wine dinner Linda prepared grilled sockeye salmon, strip steaks, asparagus spears, twice baked potatoes, mix green salad and some surprise deserts and palette teasers. Beth brought a squash casserole accompaniment. Prior to dinner we feasted on a medley of artisan cheeses brought by Dan, and shrimp cocktail.

Often when we're gathering we determine a wine theme for the evening and folks bring something accordingly. Tonight we were void of a theme other than folks knew the general menu offering. I find it remarkable how our wine pairing flights came together to create a wine experience and to complement the food. Of course Bill brought a vertical duo pairing, and we created a pairing with me matching Dan's Cab and Champagne selections. But ironically, Lyle and Bob each brought similar regional Sonoma Cabernets to compare. And of course I crafted the white flights to the meal selections. The result was a fun, interesting and intriguing wine experience.

The first wine flight was a pair of French Champagnes - Dan brought this Charles Mignon Cuvee Comte De Marne Brut Grand Cru and I pulled a Lanson Black Label Brut NV from our cellar.

Grilled Sockeye Salmon Platter

With dinner salad and the salmon we served Kim Crawford Marlborough Dry Riesling 2006, and then Maldonado Los Olivos Vineyard Napa Valley Chardonnay 2005, respectively. Then came a surprise. Linda prepared a mango lime ice garnished with mint leaves as a palette cleanser (left) before moving to the beef steak course. We paired the mango ice with Cliff Lede Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2005.

With the steak course we had a series of Cabernet pairings. We served them according to convention - older first to detect the nuances of maturity, complex, refined and polished wines next, followed by younger wines that will be more adolescent and exuberant in character.

Of course the lighter whites wines went first - from lighter champagne, then dry, progressing to fuller and sweeter, to accompany the shrimp, cheeses, salad course and salmon. And the finale was the dessert wine and or vintage port which went with hearty chocolate and pie. 

Bill brought from his cellar a Freemark Abbey mini horizontal duo of Bosche Vineyard and Sycamore Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons from 1995. We then moved to a pair of Stags Leap District Napa Cabernets 2006; Dan brought the Lindstrom and we matched it against Cliff Lede.

Lyle and Bob each brought Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignons - Lyle, a Beringer Sonoma County Knight's Valley Cabernet Reserve 2010 which we paired against Bob's Arrowood Sonoma Valley Cab 2008.

For dessert, Linda prepared a chocolate silk cream pie and a fresh key lime pie served with fresh whipped cream and a selection of chocolates including decadent dark chocolate caramels with sea salt.  I had set aside a Monbazillac 1999 which I had placed in the freezer and left it too long as it started to freeze. We did an impromptu cellar dive and pulled from a selection of vintage ports a Smith Woodhouse Madalena Vintage Port 1995.

The flights -

Champagnes -

Charles Mignon Cuvee Comte De Marne Brut Grand Cru Champagne Epernay, France

Lanson Black Label Brut NV, Reims, Champagne, France

Whites -

Kim Crawford Marlborough (New Zealand) Dry Riesling 2006 - with the salad course.

Maldonado Los Olivos Vineyard Napa Valley Chardonnay 2005 - with the salmon.

Cliff Lede Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2005 - with the Mango Lime ice.



The Cabernets -

Bill's brought from his cellar with its extensive vertical of Freemark Abbey Cabernets these single vineyard designated selections from Bosche and Sycamore. Our visit to the winery was highlighted by our tour and trolling through the cellar library during our 2009 Napa Wine Experience trip.

We have numerous stories about  Freemark Abbey tasting experiences that accentuated the wine presentation and animated the dinner conversation, some of which are featured elsewhere in this blog.

Freemark Abbey Bosche Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1995 - Perhaps not surprising, this label proved to be one of, if not the tasting highlight (s) of the evening. My own Cellartracker notes and rating from 9/2/2013,  about eleven months ago  accurately apply to tonight's tasting  - I wrote: "An eye-opening standout of th(at)e evening featuring a horizontal tasting of five 95 vintage Napa Cabs, this was medium to full bodied with bright vibrant forward ripe plum and black raspberry fruits accented by tones of currant, clove, hints of vanilla and sweet oak with smooth polished silky tannins on the finish. Lots of life left in this eighteen year old." Then and now - RM 91 points.

Bill's Cellartracker notes from the evening: "The hit of our wine dinner with friends. Inky, purple color STILL. No signs of aging. Nose a bit musty on opening but blew off after an hour to reveal expected aroma of eucalyptus and a hint of spice. Chocolate, clove, mint, cassis and blackberry on the palate. Fully integrated tannins but still has some backbone and a long finish. Tasted side by side with a '95 Sycamore."
WCC - 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=780698

Freemark Abbey Sycamore Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1995 - There was a remnant left in the bottom of this bottle Monday evening, and remarkably, 48 hours after opening, it was actually improved over Saturday. Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, upon opening, it presented forward black cherry fruits with a slight tart edge, before turning to a layer of black berry and earthy leather. Two days later, it took on a mouthful of smoke that quickly turned to complex layer of anise turning to cognac like alcohol that lingers on and on with tones of spice and leather on the smooth firm tannin finish.
RM 88 points.

Bill's Cellartracker notes from ten months ago: "Drank over a 2 day period. A bit musty on the nose. Lots of earth and some limited fruit on the palate. Classic old style California Cab. Second day, fruit on the nose was much more pronounced but a day did not help the taste. A decent bottle but time to drink
WCC 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=23805

http://www.freemarkabbey.com/

Dan brought this Lindstrom Stags Leap District Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 which promised to be the showcase wine of the evening, a special offering since this wine comes from a property of an associate of his brother.

This premium label is 100% Estate Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from carefully selected fruit from eleven blocks at their four acre hilltop Nicali Vineyard in Stags Leap District, Napa Valley, named for Greg and Carol Lindstrom's two daughters—Nicole and Ali. The vineyard is adjacent to vineyards of well known producers Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, Shafer Vineyards,  and Joseph Phelps Vineyards. It was undeveloped until recently due to its steep hillsides and complex topography.

The subtly and finesse of the Lindstrom was at risk of being overshadowed by the bigger more obtuse forward fruits of the Lede and Bosche. Dark inky purple and full bodied, the care in viticulture and selection was apparent in the understated style of full bodied complexity with finesse and polish. Tight and a bit closed yet, this will no doubt age gracefully for several years. It will be fun to see how it reveals itself in ten years. Elegant tones of subdued black berry and black raspberry fruits are accented by a layer of tea with hints of  currant, cedar, black olive herb and sage on a smooth moderate tannin lingering finish.
RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=656777

http://www.lindstromwines.com/

To compare aside the Lindstrom, I pulled this Cliff Lede Stags Leap District Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. We discovered Cliff Lede wines and his blockbuster Poetry at the Wine Spectator Grand Tour in Chicago in 2009.  Established in 2002, Cliff Lede Vineyards encompasses sixty acres in the Stags Leap District at the foot of and across the Silverado Trail from Stags Leap on the eastern floor of Napa Valley.  The flagship, Poetry Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from the steep hillside portion of the estate that sits above the valley adjacent to the tony Poetry Inn boutique inn.


Our visit to Cliff Lede Estate was a highlight of our Napa Wine Experience Tour in 2009. 

Six years after release, the 2006 Lede Estate Cabernet seems to be reaching its stride at the apex of its tasting curve. Medium full bodied, deep ruby color with full forward blackberry and black and red currant fruits with tones of mocha, clove spice and hints of tar and sweet oak on a smooth polished flavorful lingering finish. 
Blend: 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 2% Malbec
RM 91 points.

Bills notes from our tasting last year: "Deep, opaque,purple color. Long legs. A bit of perfume, tobacco and spice on the nose. Big and fruit forward, this is a complex wine with layers of black raspberry, plum and blueberry, evolving to chocolate, clove and a hint of tobacco. Drinking very well now but certainly has 5 to 8 years left."
WCC 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=571785

http://www.ledefamilywines.com/

 More to come ...

Then the lighter flight ... From Sonoma County ...

Beringer Sonoma County Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2010 -

Arrowood Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2008















Finally the Port -

Smith Woodhouse Madalena Vintage Port 1995

Tanunda 100 Year Shiraz - De la Gardine CDP for Barbecue Rib Dinner

Tanunda 100 Year Shiraz - De La Gardine CDP for Barbecue Rib Dinner

For barbecue rib dinner we pulled a California Syrah and a vintage Chateauneuf du Pape and friend Bill brought a classic Tanunda 100 year old vines Shiraz. Son Sean prepared a starter of classic Coquilles St-Jacques (Gratinéed Scallops). Coquilles St-Jacques simply means "scallops" in French.

For the scallops starter, Bill brought a Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett.

Dr. H. Thanisch Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett 1999

What a surprise in the vibrant bright fruit of this fifteen year old Riesling. The flavor profile was predominate sweet green apple turning to a layer of pear with bright nicely balanced acidity. It drank more like a spatlese with its full body and just the right amount of pleasurable sweetness.

RM 89 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1755394

http://www.thanisch.com/



Chateau Tanunda 100 Year Vines Shiraz 2008

Bill was generous to bring a bottle of this select wine from his cellar. We discovered this wine at the Wine Spectator Grand Tour in Chicago when it was being poured by Chateau Tanunda's Dagmar O'Neill. Only 100 cases were produced. We orchestrated a purchase of eight three packs in OWC's which we split amongst the wine team, pictured in this blogspot feature.

Bill's notes - "Still the best Shiraz I have tasted and there is a great deal of separation from number 2. Layered and complex with spice, granite, minerals on the palate with a touch of softness not usually expected in a Shiraz. Drinking beautifully now but will last for years."

WCC 96 points.

This is a huge thick chewy Shiraz. I can only think of a few that have been this dense and each of them are memorable tastings. It begs for a thick juicy steak or tangy barbecue. Full bodied, complex, concentrated, full lingering tannins predominate the dense, black and blue berry fruits with hints of liquorice, plum and spice and spicy oak.

RM 93 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=937673

http://www.chateautanunda.com/

Château de la Gardine Châteauneuf-du-Pape 1998

Working through aged bottles in my cellar, I pulled this sixteen year old CDP with it flattened side almost squarish shaped bottle to accompany the ribs. This is the last and final bottle of a case I purchased upon release following my trip to CDP and the Rhone River Valley back in 1999. This property is one of the biggest private owned estates in Chateauneuf du Pape.

It took an hour for this to open and reveal its fruits. Of course tasting it alongside the big Tanunda Old Vines exacerbated the difference. This was more old world style with greater complexity and breadth reflecting the blend.

This was medium bodied and dark garnet colored - complex slightly tart black and red fruits, hints of earthy, leather, pepper, with berry, mineral, spice nose; it was very tasty, balanced, slightly tart berry, blackberry, black cherry with mineral  palate, hints of earthy tobacco and cassis and a medium-plus finish. The blend is old world Southern Rhone CDP style with 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, 15% Syrah and 5% Muscardin.

RM 88 points. Consistent notes w/ earlier tastings.

It got 92 points from Wine Spectator who cited its "Beautiful. Black color, thick texture, with delicious ripe fruit and silky, sweet tannins." Robert Parker gave it 90 Points and enphasized its "dense, saturated purple color, .... enticing, sweet nose of black fruits, licorice, and violets." He pegged the drinking window between 2003-2016.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=52699

http://www.gardine.com/en/home

Syrah stand-off - top rated Ojai Presidio vs. 90+ Cellars Lot 101

Syrah stand-off - top rated Ojai Presidio vs. 90+ Cellars Lot 101 

Here is a classic stand-off comparison between two contrasting styles of American Syrah. I've been enjoying the Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 101 Syrah recent release as written here in my blogpost. So when son Ryan said he was bringing a highly rated Ojai Vineyard Central California Syrah to Christmas eve dinner, the challenge was on. Erin prepared a delicious beef tenderloin while Ryan prepared succulent lobster tails for a gala Christmas eve family dinner that included twice baked potatoes, Barb's green beans in bacon and herbs, and Alec's salad, followed by Baby Jesus' birthday cake and decadent dark chocolate mousse.


Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 101: Collectors Series Columbia Valley, Washington, Syrah, 2009

I reviewed this wine last week in my blogpost. I love this style as my preferred profile of a Syrah, thick, chewy with sweet forward fruits. Dark inky colored, medium to full bodied, this full throttled Syrah reveals layers of blackberry and black currants fruits with tones of sweet vanilla, caramel and spice with hints of black pepper on a lingering smooth silky tannin finish.
 
RM 93 points.
 
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1742790

 

Ojai Presidio Vineyard Santa Barbara County Syrah 2008 

Since 1983 Ojai Vineyard have been producing central California wines in the French style of Burgundy and the Rhone valley. Adam Tolmach studied viticulture and enology at UC Davis and worked at Zaca Mesa in Santa Barbara County after graduating in 1976. He co-founded Au Bon Climat with Jim Clendenen in 1982. After nine years Adam sold out to Jim to focus on Ojai Vineyard where he planted Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc on the property his grandfather bought in the Ojai Valley in 1933. 

Today the team of Adam and Helen Tolmach and Fabien Castel source fruit from a dozen different vineyards from the coolest districts in Northern Santa Barbara County. They produce wines from Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier varietals. They produce about 6000 cases each year across about 15 different bottlings/labels, most of which are vineyard designated wines. This Syrah is another blockbuster in their recent lineup that received huge reviews and ratings. 

Black color, medium-full bodied, full aromatics of berry fruits, concentrated, complex, still a bit backwards and tight, a core of dark fruits is accented by creosote, licorice, tobacco and herbs with a hint of pepper. My preference is for the forward fruit filled style of the 90+ while the layers of tar and licorice detract of the Ojai from its appeal for my tastes, Robert Parker loves the Ojai and gives this 95 points. Ryan too favored the Ojai.


RM 89 points.

Parker's description - "Meaty and peppery, with green herbs, bacon fat, smoke, mineral and loads of dark fruit, this medium to full-bodied Syrah has superb purity and definition on the palate. Still backwards and tight, it needs another 2-3 years of bottle age and will thrill through 2024."

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1585477

http://www.ojaivineyard.com/

Ravines Wine Cellars Finger Lakes Dry Riesling 2012 

To accompany the lobster, I brought this recent release Dry Riesling from the Finger Lakes region in New York. We visited Ravines during our visit to the Finger Lakes Wine Region in 2012. This is one of the very few Finger Lakes region producers to reach the Chicago market. Their Cabernet Franc and this Riesling can be found currently.

As noted in my blog posts from the time, Riesling is the primary and most appropriate varital grape grown in the region. They should stick to what they do best and focus on Riesling and a select few other varietals that are best suited to the climate and terroir there. But unfortunately they stray from the tried and tested approach learned in the old world and produce a wide variety of wines from an extraordinary wide selection of varietals. The result if a lot of mediocre and uninspiring wines. Never-the-less, Wine Spectator recently included Ravines Wine Cellars’ 2012 Dry Riesling in its Top 100 Wines of 2013, ranking it 33rd on the list.

James Molesworth rated the 2012 Dry Riesling with a 91 point score in the October issue of Wine Spectator, citing its “good weight and drive, with Asian pear, fennel and Fuji apple notes carried by lively acidity. Delivers lots of cut on the finish.”

Did he say fennel? Yes, I'm afraid so and this tends to detract from the harmony of the fruit. The wine tends to have a subtle but noticeable tone of what some might describe as rubber or tennis ball aromas.

I gave it 86 points.

Ryan gave it a 85 in his Cellartracker note - "strange wine. overpowering new rubber aroma and flavor..".


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1615267

http://ravineswine.com/

Inniskillin Niagara on the Lake Wine Experience

Niagara on the Lake - Inniskillin Wine Experience

Desert wine is nectar in a glass - essence of honey, apricot, violets - there is nothing like it under the sun. Among the absolute finest desert wines in the world are ice wines - wines from grapes allowed to lie on the vine beyond ripening, then past the winter freeze such that as much as eighty percent of the juice in the grape is frozen leaving behind but all the sugars in the remaining twenty percent of the juice. Such is ice wine which in North America comes from a small area in the Pacific Northwest where Inniskillin Okanagan operates in Oliver, British Columbia, and from Niagara-on-the-Lake, a small strip of land between the western tip of  Lake Ontario to the north and the eastern tip of Lake Erie on the south. The small land mass adjacent to the Niagara escarpment there traps the air to protect the grape vines.

When the temperature reaches 8 degrees fahrenheit the conditions are right to harvest the grapes and collect the extracted sugar rich grapes suited for ice wine. Inniskillin Wines in the Niagara on the Lake appellation, licensed in 1974, the first winery to be licensed since 1929, has been producing and specializing in perfecting ice wines since 1984. Their Vidal Ice Wine from the 1989 vintage received the prestigious Grand Prix d'Honneur at Vinexpo in France. Inniskillin produces ice wine from several varieties of grapes including Vidal, Riesling, Chardonnay and even Cabernet Franc. They even produce a sparkling ice wine, which in other realms might be considered an oxymoron. Their 2006 Vidal Sparkling Ice Wine and 2007 Riesling Ice Wine won the Premio Speciale Gran Vinitaly "World Cup of Wine" in 2007.

We love desert wines and serve them with salads, artisan cheeses and of course with deserts ranging cake to petit fours to dark chocolates. So  when it came time to visit Niagara on the Lake, our whole focus was on Inniskillin, the house of ice wine. 

Readers of this blog know we have a fairly extensive cellar, with numerous desert wines from the world's finest producers from the finest wine regions - late harvest rieslings from California, Sauternes from Bordeaux, Trockenberenauleses (TBA's) from Germany and Austria, and of course ice wines from the Niagara escarpment.

Inniskillin, named for the Irish village from where GI's hailed who were stationed in the area during the great WWII, has 120 acres of vines, and purchases grapes from local producers from another 250 acres to source the grapes for their wines. Their specialty and flagship wines are ice wines.

During our visit to Niagara and Inniskillin, we were honored to meet the legendary Don Zeraldo, one of the founders and former co-owners of Inniskillin. He was responsible for championing the creation of the Niagara on the Lake AVA, and with the oenology institute there that grants certificates and degrees in viticulture and oenology. And of course with the development and perfection of ice wines in partnership with Karl Kaiser, the father of Niagara on the Lake ice wine.

The tour of Inniskillin starts in the visitor's center, rumored to have been partly designed by Frank Lloyd Wright (more on that later). One then tours the vineyards, source of the Vidal and Chardonnay grapes for Inniskillin wines, followed by the crush area.

The tour visits the cellars and sees a movie of the legacy and heritage of Inniskillin wines featuring the vision and work on Don Zeraldo and Ken Kaiser. One sees the working Inniskillin cellars seeing aging wine in both barrels and bottles, culminating in seeing the wine library featuring bottle storage from the early vintages from the mid-eighties through  recent vintages.

Finally one is treated to a tasting in the tasting room which in fair weather is outdoors, or otherwise indoors in the visitor center. We were treated to the public tour tasting and then a special tasting of select Innikillin wines. We tasted the following Inniskilllin wines:

Inniskillin Vidal Ice Wine 2008

Inniskillin Sparkling Ice Wine 2010

Inniskillin Shiraz Cabernet 2010

Inniskillin Kaiser Legacy Ice Wine 2004

Inniskillin Cabernet Franc Ice Wine 2010

 


Inniskillin Winery and Frank Lloyd Wright - the Wright legend and inspired decor

The staff at Inniskillin spoke to the connection between the winery and Frank Lloyd Wright. The legend of Wright and Inniskillin  is that the property was owned by the Larkin family during the period when they commissioned Wright to design the Larkin Corporation headquarters building in Buffalo. The current winery visitors' center is situated in a barn that was built at that time. The recent owners of the winery decorated the buildings and grounds whth Frank Lloyd Wright inspired decor such as light fixtures, ironwork and windows. One window (below) is a reproduction or knock-off of the famous 'ballon' design windows from the Avery Coonley kindergarten in Riverside, Illinois. An original of these windows is displayed in the Art Institute of Chicago and they are the basis for many popular designs.

Ironically, the dual purpose of our to Niagara region was to visit Inniskillin and to tour the  Darwin Martin House and Complex in Buffalo, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright around the turn of the last century during his golden era of the Prairie Style of architecture. As a docent interpreter for the Wright Home and Studio in Oak Park, Illinois for the Frank Lloyd Wright Preservation Trust, I was also the research captain for Wright Plus 2012 for the William Martin House in Oak Park. William Martin commissioned Wright to design his home in Oak Park in 1903. During this time, he introduced his younger brother Darwin Martin to Wright. This lead to the commission for Wright to develop the Martin House and related buildings, and eventually the Larkin Building. Darwin Martin was the financial officer for the Larkin family and their soap and home products company.

In speaking with Don Zeraldo, former principle of Inniskillin. I intimated that I didn't buy into any theory of a connection between Wright and the winery property. He acknowledged that while this was a popular legend, there is no hard evidence of such a connection.

Some of the Wright inspired decor is shown here.

Summer-cookout-2k-Bordeaux_and_like_flight

Summer grilled steak cookout highlights 2k Bordeaux flight, Napa Bordeaux Blends and Select Whites

Terry and Lyle hosted our mid-summer wine dinner at their pied-à-terre in Chicago west loop. Lyle grilled steaks on the deck and Terry fixed an assortment of dishes including salads and potato casserole.  The antipasto included selected artisan cheeses and olives including tapenade and a crab dip salad with assorted biscuits and breads.

The wine theme featured a flight of 2000 vintage Bordeaux complimented by California Napa Valley Meritage (Bordeaux-like) Cabernet Sauvignon blends. The evening was kicked off with a pair of Champagnes and closed with a pair of Graham Vintage Ports to accompany chocolate cake, fresh berries and whipped cream topping.

A selection of artisan cheeses included an aged Gouda, Bellavitano with pepper, and three fine aged cheddars - one, three and five years old from Fair Oaks Farms in Northern Indiana.

The cheeses were complimented by the a selection of white wines - vintage Brut Champagne, a Vouvray and a Dry Riesling from Finger Lakes region in New York.

John brought two Champagnes, a Paul Bara Grand Cru Spécial Club Brut Bouzy Champagne 2002 and Henri Giraud Esprit Brut Rose NV.

The Paul Bara was initally yeasty but this melted off to reveal nut, apple, pear and peach flavors with medium bodied, medium acidity. Thirteen Cellartracker reviews averaged 91 points with a medium 90.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=558661  

The Henri Giraud Esprit was dark salmon, almost copper colored, started a slight bit yeasty and this too melted off to reveal a hint of smoke accenting the strawberry and hint of citrus notes with medium body and medium acidity. This received average 90 and medium of 89 points from seven Cellartracker reviewers. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1169585

Two other whites were tasted to accompany the first course - Ernie brought  a Chateau Moncontour Vouvray 2002 and L & I brought Ravines Finger Lakes New York Dry Riesling 2010.  We'll be touring the Finger Lakes region in early August so I sought out a selection from there that could be sourced locally.  
 
The Moncontour was light lemon colored, medium bodied with hint of citrus, peach and pear notes.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=42695

The Finger Lakes region is not well known beyond the East Coast but this Dry Riesling 2009 label made Wine Spectator's list of Top 100 exciting wines for 2011 (Nov. 21, 2011).

This tasted almost like a Viognier with weak tea color, medium body - mineral and crushed stone character with subdued citrus, pear and apple notes on a very dry pronounced acid finish. Medium and Average review of 89 points from sixteen Cellartracker reviewers including me.

http://ravineswine.com/

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1162835

Prior to the Bordeaux flight we tasted Flora Springs Trilogy Napa Valley Red Blend 2008. With dark inky color, this exhibited full bodied forward black and blue berry and black currant fruits with a layer of mocha and hints of sweet oak - a pleasant, very tasty, simple easy drinking wine. As indicated by the three grape leaves on the label, Trilogy is a blend of  79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, and 2.5% Petit Verdot. It was aged for 22 months in 100% new French Oak.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1091239

We've enjoyed Trilogy since the 80's and still hold vintages dating back to 1990 and 1991 in our cellar. This one is as forward and flavorful as any I remember however perhaps not as complex as some vintages.


 The flight of 2000 vintage Bordeaux was poured during dinner, consisted of St Emilion, Margaux, Pessac-Leognan, and St. Julian appellations, tasted in that order.

Clos de L'Oratoire St Emilion Bordeaux Grand Cru Classe 2000

Full-bodied, round, ripe black currants, blackberry and black cherry fruits with hints of herbs and spice on a silky smooth tannin finish.

92 points Robert Parker; 92 points Wine Spectator; 90 points Stephen Tanzer; RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=6340




Chateau Lascombs Margaux Bordeaux Grand Cru Classe 2000

Medium-bodied, deep ruby/purple-colored,  upon opening a huge bouquet of floral and perfume permeate the air -  flavors of violet, blackberry, black currant, and black cherry fruits with a layer of vanilla and smooth polished tannins on a a long, berry, vanilla soft oak finish. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=6403



90 points Robert Parker:  89 Wine Spectator; Steven Tanzer 87-90; RM 91 points.



 Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Leognan Bordeaux Grand Cru Classe 2000

We discovered this wine through their collaboration with Napa Valley's Darioush. We were honored to attend a gala wine dinner at Everest Room in Chicago co-hosted by proprieter Dominic Laborie of Domaine Chevalier and  Darius and Shaptar Khaledi of Darioush. We hold a vertical of this wine starting with the 94 vintage through the 2000 which we presented here.

This was the most subdued of the reds, perhaps in a closed period. classic Bordeaux character with musty earthy leather and tobacco notes that masked the black berry fruit, cassis and spice notes with a moderate firm tannin finish.

Average of 90.8 points with a medium 92 points in 42 Cellartracker reviews - my rating - RM 88 points - perhaps more indication that this bottle was shut down at this time.  . 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=15913

Chateau Langoa Barton St Julien Bordeaux Cru Classe 2000

This wine was Number 24 of the Spectator's top 100 wines of 2003!

Legendary Anthony Barton owns this and the more renouned Léoville Barton but Langoa Barton sells for a fraction of the price - this is a great investment wine from this vintage.

This Langoa is big and intense with dense, rich, aromas and flavors of  earthy black and blue berry and black currant fruits with a layer of anise and hint of leather with structured lingering full tannins and acidity on the finish.

94 points Wine Spectator: 91 points from Robert Parker; 90 points RM - average and median of 91 points in 50 Cellartracker reviews.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=9898

  Still in process .... More to come ...


Silver Oak Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

If you love Silver Oak, you'll like this release; if you think Silver Oak is over the top over-oaked, then you won't!

Complex, full bodied with dark ruby red color, aromas and flavors of floral, ripe plum and blackberry with a layer of that signature predominant sweet spicy oak, undercurrents of spice, black olive, mocha and vanilla with supple, integrated fine grained tannins and a long finish.

Like the Trilogy above, Silver Oak Napa 2004 is also a meritage blend but even moreso (Bordeaux like) with 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot 2%, 1% Malbec.

90 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar; RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=334621

http://www.silveroak.com/

Celler Vall Llach Priorat IDUS Catalunya Spain 2005

John brought and served a 2005 Proriat Idus from Celler Vall Llach. Dark inky colored, full bodied it exhibit black fruits, creosote tar notes, licorice, black cherry and spice with a hints of smoke and tobacco on the finish.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=354910

Cellartracker reviewers rated this an average 90.9 points with a median of 91 pts. in 37 notes. RM 87 points.

Grahams Vintage Port 2000 and 1991  

To finish, with chocolate cake, fresh berries and whipped cream, we Lyle served Grahams Vintage Port 2000 and 1991.

Silom12 Bucktown Chicago Thai Restaurant - BYOB

Silom12 Bucktown Chicago Thai Restaurant - BYOB

Silom12 1848 North Milwauikee, Bucktown, Chicago

Wine and Dine experience at Silom12, named for the bustling nightlife district in Bangkok. The new Bucktown Chicago Thai Restaurant, located at 1846-48 Milwaukee, walking distance from the Western Avenue Blue Line station, Silom12 offers standard traditional and contemporary Thai fare, great food, reasonable service, and liberal BYOB for a great value dining experience.

For Starters, we tried the Crispy Coconut Shrimp which was incredible, featuring shrimp mixed with tasty Water Chestnuts. The Crab Rangoon starter was less impressive with lots of cream cheese and little perceptible sign of crab. Both were served with a tasty sweet chili sauce.




Other tempting Starters that tempt a return visit were sesami crusted Tuna Tataka, Steamed Mussels in spicy coconut sauce and Rock Shrimp in tempura sauce.

Entrees include a selection of Noodle dishes, Stir Fry, Curry and Fried Rice dishes. Featured entree's also are the Chef's Specialties including Shrimp, Soft Shell Crab, Tilapia and Chilean Sea Bass offerings.

Other featured selections that we ordered were Crispy Fried Duck Delight with shrimp, asparagus, mushrooms and jasmine rice, Osso Buco braised veal shank with mushroom, young chili pepper, green curry and jasmine rice, and Tiger Cry features a 7 ounce filet of beef with green beans, sticky rice and spicy tamarind reduction.

We also had the Orange Chicken (above) and Garlic Chicken stir fry's, and the Massaman Potato noodle with beef, sweet potato, rice, peanut sauce and coconut milk (left).  All were nice portions, tastefully prepared and aside from the Osso Buco, all warrant a return visit.





To accompany dinner we brought and tasted the following wines:


Leitz "Eins, Zwei, Dry" Trocken Riesling 2009


Toad Hall, Napa Valley Carneros Pinot Noir 2007


Carmenet Moon Mountain Reserve Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1996,


Shrader Double Diamond Mayacamas Range Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2003,


Shrader Double Diamond Beckstoffer Amber Knolls Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2002



Leitz "Eins, Zwei, Dry" Trocken Riesling 2009 - this was  a perfect compliment to the Thai cuisine, fresh, acid and medium bodied. Brought by Ryan and Michelle.
RM 86 points.

Toad Hall, Napa Valley Carneros Pinot Noir 2007 - medium bodied, nicely balanced black cherry and black berry fruits intermingled with dusty rose petals and a hint of leather on the light tannin finish; went well with the lighter rice and water chestnut features - a great value at under $20. Brought by Bill & Beth.
RM 85 points.
http://www.cellartracker.com/editnote.asp?iWine=859016

Carmenet Moon Mountain Reserve Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1996 - I have four tasting notes over ten years for this wine and this resembles the earliest tasting back in the year 2000 - Fairly complex and medium fullness - black berries and currant turn to a layer of mocha/coffee, with a hint of anise and sage, with  moderate finish  Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. This lighter more moderate cab went with the heartier Thai dishes especially the Massaman Potato noodle and the duck. Brought by Bill & Beth. RM 89 points.
http://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=10002

Shrader Double Diamond Mayacamas Range Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 - Dark inky color, full bodied, full but subdued black berry and plum fruits, hint of sweet cherry and mocha on the smooth tannin finish. Brought by Rick & Linda. This 'big cab' went well with the Filet of Beef but was a bit too much for the rest of the more refined Thai dishes. RM 90 points. 
http://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=97356


Dining and tastiing w/ L, Ryan & Michelle, Erin & Lucy (top), and Bill & Beth C, Matt & Molly (bottom) at Silom12 in Bucktown.

http://www.silom12chicago.com/ 

Easter Brunch Festive Dining with Fine Wines

Easter Brunch Festive Dining with Fine Wines

Easter weekend featured festive dining with family with home cooked preparations matched with fine wines. Easter eve featured Mayacamas Napa Valley Mt Veeder Merlot 2006 and Chardonnay 2009 served with lasagna and baked chicken respectively. We tasted and just received these wines from our recent Napa Valley Mt Veeder Appellation Trail Wine Experience visit to the winery. We featured these for sister Jan visiting from Cal accompanied us on the trip but left early and missed the Mayacamas visit and tasting.

 Easter brunch at home after church featured Eggs Benedict with lobster medallions, with hollandaise and asparagus spears. Also featured was a remarkable blueberry french toast bake. The wine accompaniment was Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spatlese 2006.

Easter evening we tasted Elan Napa Valley Atlas Peak Cabernet Sauvignon 1994 with artisan cheeses and medallions of beef filet with carmelized onions. The Elan tasted remarkably like a vintage Bordeaux with huge floral scents, earthy leather, black fruits, smoke and black cherry with hints of anise and cedar. This wine originally tasted at the winery with producer Richard Elliott-Smith and his lovely wife Linda back during our 1998 Napa Wine Experience (see picture and caption below).

It was true to Richard's Bordeaux roots in flavor, character and apparent age-worthiness as this seventeen year old is not only holding well but is revealing itself more profoundly than earlier tastings. Tasted with artisan cheeses and medallions of beef filet with carmelized onions it went well with the hearty blue cheese and aged cheddar. RM 90 points. 

Linda & Rick, Richard & Linda, Phil W. and AJ
tasting Elan Cabernet Sauvignon at Monticello Winery in 1998.