Showing posts with label Dow. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dow. Show all posts

Saturday, September 5, 2020

Big Bottle Birthyear mania for Wedding Celebration

Our Cellar Collection and Gala Wedding Celebration includes Large Format Birthyear Vintage Wines

The large format big bottle mania continues for Sean and Michelle's wedding celebration weekend, we opened several birthyear vintage wines we have collected and were saving in our cellar for just such an occasion. We opened a six liter Imperial Napa Cabernet the night before. 

Fortunately, the 1985 vintage produced age-worthy wines suitable for long-term cellaring for thirty-five years. 

People often ask me about the practice of obtaining wines from a particular vintage year. Check vintage charts for your chosen region for your favored wine (s). If that region had a difficult vintage, check the other regions of the world. Chances are you'll find at least one that had favorable age-worthy harvests suitable for collecting.

My fixation on collecting birthyear wines for our children, and now grandchildren is evident in the cellar statistics - for just the 1985 vintage year, we hold 95 bottles in different 39 wines. I believe that is overstated somewhat by the lack of removing bottles consumed over the years. Never-the-less, it reflects the challenge to consume those bottles before they waste away, and offers an opportunity for an extensive, intensive vintage study. 

For the celebration weekend, I pulled the following bottles for a horizontal comparison tasting:

From St Julien Bordeaux,

  • Leoville Las Cases 
  • Ducru Beaucaillou 
  • Gruaud Larose, 

Other Bordeaux: 

  • Cos d' Estournel St Estephe
  • Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Pauillac
  • Sociando-Mallette Haut Medoc

Others:

  • Freemark Abbey Napa Valley Bosche Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Rutherford Hill Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Dunn Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Flora Springs Trilogy Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Freemark Abbey Bosche' Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Dow Vintage Port
  • Warre's Vintage Port

For the reasons noted, we will hold the following bottles for future tastings:

We hold vertical collections of these labels hence an opportunity for a broader tasting: Chateau Palmer and Silver Oak. this includes a collection of magnums for each of our four kids' vintage birthyears. 

Amazingly, several labels have projected tasting windows for further aging and consumption several years into the future, hence hold these bottles for an anniversary or baby or other notable celebration tasting. These include, Chateau Mouton Rothschild, Dominus Estate Napa, Dunn Vineyards Howell Mtn, Diamond Creek Napa, and Chateaux Lynch Bages,  Pichon Baron and Pichon Lalande. 

We opened these bottles, in large format magnums for tasting at the reception dinner:

  • Sociando-Mallette Haut Medoc
  • Château Ducru Beaucaillou St Julien
  • Château Gruaud Larose, St Julien
  • Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Pauillac 
  • Dow Vintage Port

Château Sociando-Mallette Haut Medoc 1985

Château Sociando-Mallet is a 225-acre estate in St.-Seurin-de-Cadourne, which is part of the Haut-Medoc appellation just north of the St Estephe appellation, north of the city of Pauillac, Bordeaux. 

The estate is today considered by some reviewers, including Robert M. Parker Jr., to be the jewel of the Haut-Medoc.  Though the estate is unclassified, Parker says the château makes “uncompromising wines of extremely high quality….Sociando-Mallet is easily the equal of many of the classified growths….” 

The vineyards are planted to 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc.

This release got 92 points from Vinous and 91 points from Wine Spectator.

The label and foil were in good condition, the cork was soft and partially saturated but extracted almost intact using a two pronged cork puller. 

I wrote about this label back in 2010 when we also tasted it from a magnum. At that time I wrote, "Medium bodied - bright lively forward red fruit flavors highlight with hints of raspberry, black cherry, anise and leather on a moderate tannin flavorful finish.Tasted from magnum - lots of life left - no signs of age in this 25 year old. RM 90 points."

Tonight this was dark garnet color, medium bodied, black berry and black cherry fruits with notes of black truffle, smoke, black tea with subtle notes of vanilla and tangy spice on a lingering modest tannin finish. 

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=40950

https://www.sociandomallet.com/en

@Sociando_Mallet

Château Gruaud Larose St Julien Bordeaux 1985

Our visit, tour and tasting at the Gruaud Larose estate was one of the highlights of our tour of St Julien Bordeaux a year ago last month. We hold a horizontal collection of more than a dozen vintages of Gruaud Larose dating back to 1981, daughter Erin's birthyear, and the other kids' birthyears, several including this, Sean's 1985, in large format bottles.

We shared a virtual tour of our visit to Château Gruaud-Larose estate grounds, cellar, chai, library and hospitality center in St Julien from our unwindwine blogpost in these pages. 

This release got 93 points from Wine Spectator,  91 points from  Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and 90 points from  Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar. Neal Martin from K&L Wine Merchants in the SF Bay Area gave it 92 points. 

Having a reputation for long lived wines, this 1985 Gruaud Larose showed few signs of diminution from aging and seemed to have a few years of life left although it was more closed and less expressive than the other labels. Earlier in the year I wrote it was showing its age - no doubt the difference in aging effects of a small versus large format bottle. At that time I gave it 89 points.

Like the other bottles served tonight, this was also acquired upon release and has been held in our cellar since. The label, foil and fill level were all pristine, in ideal condition. The cork, like the others was a bit soft and partially saturated, but extracted intact with a two pronged cork puller.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/03/covid19-shut-in-prompts-curbside.html

Dark garnet colored, medium to full-bodied, a bit closed and slightly subdued complex, ripe earthy blackberry and black current fruits with tones of tobacco leaf, truffle, hints of cassis and spice box, turning to slightly tart black cherry on the long floral full tannin laced finish.

RM 89 points.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/03/covid19-shut-in-prompts-curbside.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=20848 

https://www.gruaud-larose.com/

 

Château Ducru Beaucaillou St Julien Bordeaux 1985

Our visit to Château Ducru Beaucaillou in Beychevelle St Julien was one of the highlights of our trip to the Medoc last year. It has long been one of the signature wines that we collected for a horizontal of vintages that includes the birthyears of our four kids including large format bottles of this label and this magnum for the 1985 vintage. 

This release got 92 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and 95 Points from the Zachy's Buying Team from the wine merchant in Scarsdale, NY.

As we have held this bottle in our cellar since release back in the eighties, the bottle label, capsule and fill level were all in near perfect condition. The cork was a bit soft and slightly saturated from the bottom but extracted intact using a Ahso two pronged cork puller. The photo shown here shows the cork after having been reinserted and removed for a tasting of the remains the following day. 

This was dark garnet-colored, medium-full bodied, concentrated, pure, red and black currant fruits with a layer of cedar and notes of  truffle, damp earth, tobacco and cinnamon; a hint of mint with with super firm tannins on a long, silky finish.

RM 91 points.  

The Zachys Buying Team Notes from their trip for the 2014 releases: 

"95 Points, Zachys Buying Team: "We had this wine over dinner while in Bordeaux tasting the 2014s - easily one of the highlights of the entire trip. Perfectly mature and is currently drinking the way Bordeaux was intended to be consumed - with age and enough sweet fruit to complement the tertiary development. This wine is all about elegance, no hard edges, classic St Julien cedar, truffle, and damp earth are joined by tobacco and cinnamon. Tongue-staining, long finish. It is a wine that transports you back to old world style claret, where the wine doesn't clobb er at 12.5% alcohol. It is truly a special treat to have this wine with this provenance and condition."
 
Marilee Bostic, Certified Sommelier, Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) and most recently, the Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) Diploma in Wines and Spirits (DipWSET), works at The Grape D’Vine, a boutique wine store in Sparkill, New York, writes in her notes of this wine:

"The 1985 Ducru-Beaucaillou still packed a punch with primary aromas and flavors, including cassis, black raspberry, and soft rose petals.  Secondary notes included a layer of vanilla and chocolate mint.  Tertiary notes dominated as this wine was fully mature, with a patina of cherry pipe smoke, damp forest floor, and black truffles.  This wine was dry, with medium (+) acidity, medium alcohol, pronounced aroma and flavor intensity, medium body, and medium tannins that were velvety-soft.  The finish was no doubt long."  
 
I wrote about this wine earlier this year and gave it 93 points, when I wrote; "Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, muted aromas on the nose but elegant, balanced and full flavored, bright and expressive on the palate with black currant fruits accented by sensuous floral, cedar, tobacco leaf, hints of damp earth with super firm tannins and a long, silky finish."

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/01/ducru-beaucaillou-birthyear-vintage.html

Last year, in anticipation of our visit to the Chateau, we opened this label when I wrote; "Dark garnet-colored, medium- to full-bodied, Parker describes it as "a wine of extraordinary charm and elegance", a floral, cedary nose with red and black currants, plum, notes of spice and cassis, firm tannins on a long, smooth silky finish. Still has some years left but assuredly not likely to improve with further aging."

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/07/chateau-ducru-beaucaillou-1989-1985.htm



@DucruB
 
 
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Pauillac Bordeaux 1985
 
We visited the estate and walked the vineyards and grounds during our visit to the Medoc last year.  This was the BOTN - best-of-the-night, showing the greatest balance, elegance and complexity with nicely integrated fruits and flavors.

This label has been my favorite of many tastings occasions and continues to be one of my perennial favorites and has more often than not surprised us with its longevity and aging potential. 
 
This release got 93 points from John Gilman and 92 points from Wine Spectator.
 
John Gilman writes, "The 1985 has aged quite beautifully and is now drinking with great style and grace. The bouquet is a superb blend of cassis, dark berries, coffee, cigar wrapper, a dollop of fresh herbs, gravel, black tea and toasty oak. On the palate the wine is pure, fullish and beautifully complex, with a good core of fruit, lovely soil signature, melted tannins and fine length and grip on the very classy finish. This is not a powerful vintage of Pichon, but it is an utterly complete one!"
 
This was also served from a magnum. 
 
While this bottle was also acquired upon release and has laid in our cellar magnum rack adjacent the other bottles, the label was soiled and had completely detached from the bottle. The capsule was rather deteriorated but the cork, while slightly soft and partially saturated, extracted intact using a two pronged cork puller. 

This was dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, complex, elegant and polished with nicely integrated black berry and black currant fruits accented by notes of cassis, black tea, coffee hints of spice and earth with a long smooth tannin laced polished finish. 

RM 93 points.

http://www.pichon-comtesse.com/

@PichonComtesse

Dow's Vintage Port 1985 

For after dinner sipping and to close out our vertical tasting of 1985 wines for the evening, we opened this 1985 Vintage Port. 

We hold in our cellar several cases of Vintage Port wines but only from a few select vintages, mostly birthyears of our children, and classic Vintage Port vintage years. Note that only in years with an acceptable harvest that they declare it a Vintage year and release vintage designated release wines. 

Son Sean's birthyear 1985 was such a year, hence there are 1985 vintage release ports available. Such wines are notably ageworthy for long term cellaring, hence popular collectables for cellaring and holding for special occasions - classic 'special occasion' wine! 

Note that one should ensure they have an appropriate place with temperature and humidity consistency to cellar and store wine before investing in buying bottles to cellar for an extended period of time.

This wine got 93 points from James Suckling and Vinous and 92 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. 

This is classic Vintage Port, what one is supposed to taste like. Naturally, in its 35th year, we see the ageability of such a wine and the art of the possible, or what is to be expected when properly cellared. Too often, if consumed too early, they will present a medicinal or 'hot' alcohol tones until they have integrated, smoothed and settled. 

Dark black garnet colored, medium bodied, aromas of walnuts, dried fruit and fig/raisins, rich concentrated black and red-berry and ripe plum fruits nicely integrated with layers of clove spice, anise liquorice, notes of raisin, creosote and leather with a smooth long lingering clean silky smooth tongue coating finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1897

Sunday, March 5, 2017

OTBN 2017

OTBN - Open That Bottle Night 2017

Our 'pour boys' wine group gathered for the 2017 17th annual "OTBN" wine celebration. OTBN stands for Open That Bottle Night, the annual wine event for collectors and oenophile wine enthusiasts to pull that special bottle being held in the cellar for an occasion whose time has not yet come. So once a year, what the heck, OTBN - open that bottle (to)night. Typically held on the last Saturday of February, this years bacchanalia was postponed a week due to members' travels. Once again, the event provided a wonderful gathering, great food, fellowship, and of course, some extraordinary wines. We missed regular attendees Bill and Beth and toasted them as they sit down on the South Carolina shore.

We started with a course of artisan cheeses, fresh fruits, crab dip and fresh shrimp cocktail to kick off the evening with a hearty vintage Champagne Celebris Gosset 2002 brought by John. The cheese course consisted of gouda, swiss, Danish Maytag Blue, Bellavitano Merlot, parmigiana, and capped of by a extraordinary 19 year old vintage sharp cheddar, also brought by John. Following was a wonderful Peter Michael Chardonnay brought by Ernie. These also lead in to the salad course.

Celebris Gosset Vintage Extra Brut Champagne 2002

Celebris is the flagship prestige cuvée of the Gosset Champagne house named, inspired by Albert Gosset, the 15th generation patriarch (1915-1991) and developed  by cellarmaster Jean-Pierre Mareigner in 1993. The first release of Celebris appeared in 1995, consisting of the 1988 vintage cuvée. The cuvée was designed to stand with the finest high-end champagnes in its class and showcase the best of the Gosset style - great aromatic complexity and beautiful finesse that could be paired with the most elaborate dishes.

The 2002 is 52% Chardonnay, 48% Pinot Noir from vineyards in Aÿ, Bouzy, Verzy, Chouilly and Cramant. It received 96 points from Vinous who described it as "vinous, fleshy and super-expressive with striking freshness, candied lemon peel, apricot jam, honey, mint, spices and sage in a compelling fabric of flavors and textures in a knock-out Champagne."

Wine Spectator and  James Suckling both gave it 94 points, Suckling noting "a deep, rich and toasty nose that has a wealth of cashewy, nutty aromas and dried lemon pith, nougat and bright dried cherry fruits ...  bold, assertive and full of flavor with really expansive orchard fruits."

Wine Spectator cited its lightly smoky finish.

Jancis Robinson noted it to be 'extremely dense and dry - most impressive, though verging on austere without anything to eat with it."

Jean-Pierre Mareigner, Cellarmaster wrote, “This is a champagne that was difficult to create. I selected contrasting villages in order to blend various personalities. I was looking for structure but also freshness. The final result is an exceptional cuvée.”

Varietal Composition: 52% Chardonnay, 48% Pinot Noir

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1709249

Peter Michael La Carrière Sonoma County Knights Valley Chardonnay 2013

This was delightful, a memorable Chardonnay, ranking with the best of breed of this varietal, among the best, as good as any I have every tasted. Part of what makes it extraordinary in its subtlety with its unpretentious silky smooth, creamy texture and refined polished flavors of nut, peach, mineral and hints of butterscotch.

RM 93 points.

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate gave it 98 points calling it "unbelievable".

James Suckling gave it 96 points citing its "concentration of honeysuckle, orange marmalade, white currant, white peach and mineral notes."

Wine Spectator gave it 93 points and called it "Complex and subtle' describing it as 'dried pineapple, apple, lime pie and hints of nuts ... hints of cream ..... full body, dense center palate."

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2029454

We pivoted to the dinner and red wine flight with this soft smooth elegant Pinot Noir.

Belle Glos Dairyman Vineyard Sonoma County Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2011

Lyle bought this Belle Glos, named for Lorna Belle Glos Wagner, co-founder of legendary Napa Valley Caymus Vineyards and grandmother of Belle Glos owner/winemaker, Joe Wagner, mother of Caymus owner/winemaker Chuck Wagner.

Belle Glos produces four single vineyard designated select Pinot Noirs, each representing the distinctive character and terroir of their disparate locations.

This label features fruit sourced from the Dairyman Vineyard located in the Sonoma County Russian River Valley. The proximity to the Pacific Ocean subjects it to cool morning fog and afternoon coastal breezes that prolong the growing season resulting in small, concentrated and flavorful berries with bright cherry characteristics, brown spices, and a minerality that gives a rich, velvety mouth feel. The vineyard is named for its history as an old dairy farm where the pastureland was planted to Dijon clone Pinot Noir in 2000

This was actually rather full bodied and bold for a Sonoma County Pinot Noir, dark ruby colored, complex, with spicy dark and red berry fruits, dusty rose, hints of cedar and cinnamon on a tangy rather firm finish.
RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1605702

http://belleglos.com

Moving to the dinner course, Linda prepared her beef tenderloin (shown below), with roasted potatoes, brussel spouts and green beans. With the entree course we featured three Bordeaux varietal blends, a mini-vertical tasting of two vintages of this unique California label and a left bank Bordeaux. I had already selected and opened this Ridge Monte Bello 1998 when John showed up with the 1993 release of the same wine. We couldn't have planned this any better!

I wrote in depth about the Ridge Monte Bello vineyards and estate in a tasting journal last year

Monte Bello is the unique flagship label of this prolific producer known for a broad line of vineyard select Zinfandels from throughout Northern California  including Sonoma and Napa Counties. Monte Bello is unique not only that it is a Ridge produced Bordeaux blend, but also because it is sourced from fruit from the Monte Bello vineyard, high atop the Santa Cruz mountains that separate Silicon Valley and San Francisco Bay to the east and north, from the Pacific Ocean and the Monterey Bay/Peninsula to the west and south.

This is especially notable to us since it is closest to, yet high above the location of our home from when we lived in Saratoga, California, nestled up against the Santa Cruz mountain range down at the bottom of Silicon Valley, near the crease where the road leads up into the mountains and over 'the hill' down to Santa Cruz on the Pacific coast.

This is a contrast in two vintages, from the somewhat maligned and challenged 1998 vintage, while five years younger than the '93 above, it is starting to show its age a bit while the 93 seems vibrant and full of life.

Ridge Vineyards "Monte Bello" Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon 1993

This was amazing in its graceful elegant, almost delicate floral tones, complex yet smooth and polished with layers of soft black raspberry and black currant fruits with subtle tones of vanilla, anise, and hint of  graphite on a silky tannin finish.

The blend is 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 7% Petiti Verdot. 

RM 92 points


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=20720


Ridge Vineyards "Monte Bello" Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

The 1998 Monte Bello is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, and 1% Cabernet Franc.

Consistent with last tasting notes, two years ago, almost to the date, dark purple garnet colored, medium to full bodied, initially a bit obtuse and acidic, but softened and opened after decanting and sitting for an hour, full, moderately expressive black berry and plum fruits, complex, accented by subtle tones of  pencil shavings, tobacco leaf, violets, and hints of bell pepper and anise with moderate smooth silky tannins on the finish. It would be overstated to characterize it as 'earthy' but there is a layer of complexity that reflects the storied terroir and reveals the care of 47% selection and the rigorous thinning that results in extremely selective, low yields of less than 1 1/2 tons per acre.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3557

http://www.ridgewine.com/Vineyards/Monte%20Bello


Château Lanessan Haut-Medoc Bordeaux 1995 

Ernie brought this left bank Bordeaux.

Dark blackish garnet colored, medium-full bodied, this was firm and a bit tight with concentrated black berry fruits, a layer of smoke and anise accented by hints of creosote, graphite and black tea on the lingering moderate tannin finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=68029











Domaine Font de Michelle Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Etienne Gonnet 2004

Dan brought this CDP that comes from the area known as La Crau, also known for the popular Chateau Vieux Telegraph. This is a blend of 65-70% Grenache, 15-20% Syrah, and 15% Mourvèdre.

I think it is the Grenache predominance that comes through with its dark berry fruit, black tea notes and meaty tones, dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, concentrated spicy black berry fruits with hints of smoke and anise, with acidic tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=176494






Transitioning from the main course and entrees to the dessert flight, the perfect transition was this big bold bruising Syrah brought by Ryan. Dessert was Terry's decadent orange cake, Linda's delectable chocolate mousse, fresh whipped cream, fresh berries, and coffees.

Herman Story Santa Maria Valley Bien Nacido Vineyard Syrah 2013

This single vineyard designated label from the Bien Nacido Vineyard in the California Central Coast Santa Maria Valley.

This was an ideal pivot from the more complex blends suitable for the dinner entrees, to a narrower, more single dimensional, big violet muscular fruit bomb to accompany the dessert course of orange cake and dark chocolate mousse.

Dark inky purple, full bodied, big forward concentrated tongue coating, almost chewy, jammy berry compote of black and blue fruits, spicy notes, black olive and hints of dark mocha and black pepper on a mouth puckering finish.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2028355


Dow's Vintage Port 1977

Lyle brought this forty year old hold sipper that is still showing much life yet.
 Dark thick and syrupy, full bodied, essence of cognac laced black currants, stewed prunes, dried fig fruits with tones of expresso, anise and hint of kirsch on a tongue coated finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/notes.asp?iWine=1728




Château de Rayne-Vigneau Premier Grand Cru Classé de Sauternes -Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend 1988 

I initially pulled out a 1998 Sauterne to accompany the '98 tasted earlier but then found down in the cellar this '88 and opted for it instead. 

Château de Rayne-Vigneau is ranked as Premier Cru Classé (French, “First Growth”), 1er Grand Cru Classé Sauternes. The château lies at the center of a single block vineyard of 207 acres. The vines are an average of 30 years old, divided between 74% Sémillon, 24% Sauvignon Blanc, and 2% Muscadelle.

At almost thirty years of age, this was surprisingly youthful, straw colored, medium-full bodied, tones of tangy citrus with bright acidity, tongue coating sweet fruits, roasted nuts and hints of smoke. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=18277




The contributors and their wines ...












Monday, October 14, 2013

Constant Diamond Mountain Claret Horizontal Highlights Beef Tenderloin Dinner

Constant Diamond Mountain Claret Horizontal Highlights Beef Tenderloin Dinner

For an impromptu beef tenderloin dinner party, I suggested opening Napa Valley Cabernets from the mid-nineties so Bill brought Constant Diamond Mountain Claret 96 and 97 and I added a 95 to round out a mini-horizontal. Lyle brought a Guimaraens Vintage Port for dessert which I complemented with a 95 Warre's Quinta de Cavadhina for a comparison tasting.

Prior to the dinner flight we opened a Ravines Finger Lakes Cabernet Franc 2010 and a Reasons 'The One' Horse Heaven Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2009. Lyle shared with us his memories from growing up in the Finger Lakes region near Keuka  Lake and swimming right near the Ravines' site.

Linda prepared a butternut squash lobster bisque which we served with a Chateau St Jean Reserve Chardonnay 2007.

Afterwards, we compared Lyle's Guimaerens 1995 Vintage Port with a Warre's Quinta de Cavadhina 1995 Oporto over chocolate truffles, pumpkin and key lime pies.

Chateau St Jean Sonoma County Reserve Chardonnay 2007

Chateau St Jean in Sonoma
Chateau St Jean is one of the classiest producers and wineries in Sonoma Valley with its expansive grounds of stylish gardens and old world style Chateau and accompanying buildings - one of the most authentic old world style sites in the region. Its one of our favorite producers in Sonoma that we've visited on numerous occasions including during our Sonoma Wine Experience 2009.

They consistently produce a selection of quality ageable reds and respectable whites in prices ranging from entry level to moderate to premium. This is a quality Reserve Chardonnay at a fraction of the price of similar labels from other notable producers.

Straw colored, medium bodied, balanced, crisp and lively, a bit buttery and slightly oaky with a solid structure and creamy texture. with aromas and flavors of lemon, pear and mandarin orange with hints of nut, vanilla and clove.

RM 88 points.


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1034421

http://www.chateaustjean.com/



Ravines Wine Cellars Finger Lakes Cabernet Franc 2010


Keuka Lake from Ravines Wine Cellars
Being one of the very few Finger Lakes region wines distributed in the Chicago market attracted us to make sure we visited the winery during our visit to the Finger Lakes Keuka Lake wine region last year. Being three quarters of the clockwise drive around Keuka Lake, we arrived just about closing time and were grateful we were able to convince the staff to bear with us since it was the sole target producer of our trip. We would not be passing by this area again, due to the expanse of the wine trails that envelop three of the five elongated finger like lakes in south central New York state.

Too many of the Finger Lake producers produced a large selection of labels from a large number of varietals. I believe all would be better served if they would stick to the one or two varietals best suited to the region terrior - climate, terrain, soil, drainage etc. For lack of doing so, we tasted too many lackluster disappointing wines during our tour - moreso than standout highlight wines.

Like many of the Finger Lakes produces we visited, Ravines offered no less than nine different labels. I believe if, like most wine producing regions in the world, if they focused on what was best suited to their area, they would produce higher quality from their selectivity. It defies conventional logic that the region is best suited to produce a dozen different varieties of grapes, each with their own suitability to climate, soil, etc.

While I wouldn't expect Cabernet Franc to thrive in this region, this Cabernet Franc is an example of a bold flavorful varietal that gets the most out of the number of sun and degree days available in the climate - pushing the limits of the grape. This Cab Franc overachieves and exceeds expectations, however the bar is set rather low compared to warmer climate locales more suited to the varietal. I expected and think the Rieslings were best suited to the region and offered a better sense of terrior or place.

This Cabernet Franc is opaque purple colored, medium to light bodied, presenting modest black cherry fruits offset by black olive, dark mushroom and earthy spice tones on the modest tannin finish.
The saving grace is that unlike $30 or $40 California or French Cab Francs, this modest price point of  $18, or the $16 in Chicagoland stores, renders a decent QPR - quality price ratio.   

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1326506

http://ravineswine.com/


Reasons "The One" Horse Heaven Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 

The guys at Wine Discount Center love this wine and give it 93 points. Wine Enthusiast ranked its 2008 as one of the top 100 wines of the vintage. I don't feel it lives up to its billing or its expensive packaging of a oversize weighty bottle, however, it isn't priced like a premium Cabernet so it ends up being a decent value with reasonable QPR (quality price ratio).

From the Horse Heaven Hills area of Washington's Columbia River Valley, the 2009 Reasons "The One" is medium bodied but a bit lean lacking polish and balance, but bursting with aromas of berry fruits upon opening, giving way to dark fruit flavors of black cherry, black plum, blackberry and cassis with hints of tobacco, leather and mushroom.

RM 88 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1627667

http://www.reasonswine.com/


Mini horizontal tasting of Constant Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignons - 1995-96-97

We visited Constant Diamond Mountain vineyards high atop Diamond Mountain during our Napa Valley Diamond Mountain Wine Experience 2011. Freddie Constant's property sitting at the summit overlooking Napa Valley to the east and Sonoma Valley to the west is one of but a select few vineyards that span both. The property is one of the oldest, longest continuous production vineyards in the Napa Sonoma region. Tonight's mini horizontal tasting revealed three diverse vintages with different effects yet clung to a common sense of place or terrior that bound the three together.

Constant Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon Claret 1997

Bill's tasting notes from Cellartracker - Deep indigo color. Full of fruit on the nose. Complex and layered on the palate with classic Bordeaux style notes of leather, tobacco, jammy dark fruit and seemingly typical of Constant, a bit of spice on the back palate. This will still improve for another 3 to 5 years. Fared well against the '95 and '96 Constant Claret though I felt the '95 at this point was a bit more expressive. Could be the '97's still need more time.

WCC 92 points.

True to the vintage ratings, this was the biggest, fullest and most complex of the three vintages - more resembling a left bank Bordeaux than a Napa Cabernet. Medium to full bodied, dark purple, earthy leather, tea and a layer of tobacco compete with the black berry fruits and hint of spice. This was the most stable of the three clinging to its core of fruit and tannin backbone on the finish. 

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=36392


Constant Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon Claret 1996

Constant Vineyards magnifcent grounds high atop
Diamond Mountain
Bill's post - This was good, but like many of the 96's we have tasted recently, probably a bit past prime. Still some interesting characteristics. Medium garnet in color, showing just a bit of orange at the rim. Limited fruit on the nose. Was a bit thin on the palate with heavier notes of black pepper and a bit of spice box. This might have rated higher if not for tasting side by side with the Constant Claret from '95 and '97.

WCC 89 points.

I found this a bit austere and the leanest of the three vintages but nicely balanced and sufficiently focused that this was favored by some of the ladies. 

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=36390

Constant Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon Claret 1995

Cabernet Sauvignon 73%, Merlot 18%, Cabernet Franc 9% 

Bill's post - Deep indigo color in the glass. A bit more full bodied than I remembered. Deep flavors of dark berry...blueberry, dark cherry and raspberry, with some minerality on the finish. Not surprising, given this vintage was made in more of a Bordeaux blend style albeit a bit Cabernet heavy at (73%). Smooth integrated tannins. A nice bottle drinking at peak. Will last another couple of years but why wait?

WCC 90 points.

My notes - This is the third bottle from this vintage we've opened in recent years and this one was consistent with earlier notes from one. Dark purple color, medium to full bodied, full forward flavors of black berry and black cherry fruits with traces of anise and hints of tobacco, tea and leather on a lingering, moderate, soft tannin finish. Mid-evening tones of black pepper appeared but were short-lived.  This is holding on but is showing its age and is nearing the end of its drinking window.

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=36373

 http://www.constantwine.com/ 


Ports - Warre's Quinta de Cavadhina 1995 and Guimaraens Vintage Port 1995

Guimaraens Vintage Port 1995

Bright dark ruby colored, full bodied, rich and chewy, concentrated and complex but nicely balanced and smooth with rich ripe black berry, black raspberry, cassis with tones of expresso coffee and hint of spice. 

RM 91 points.

From Fonseca: "In years when Fonseca does not ‘declare’ a classic vintage, it selects the finest grapes from its own vineyards to yield a small quantity of this superb wine, which is produced exactly as a declared Fonseca Vintage. Beautifully structured and perfectly balanced, Guimaraens Vintage Ports show Fonseca’s superb marriage of power and breed in a slightly lighter, earlier-maturing style."

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1918

Warre's Quinta de Cavadhina 1995

Not quite as complex and balanced with slightly more subdued fruits than the Guimaraens.
 
Dark coffee color - full bodied, a bit of an edge of sweet black fruits, layer of smokey creosote with hint of cedar and cassis and black cherry on the finish. From a half bottle.

RM 89 points. 

This was one of WINE SPECTATOR’S Top 10 Dessert Wines for 1998.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3721  


http://www.warre.com/section.php?id=777






Saturday, February 23, 2013

OTBN 2013

OTBN - Open That Bottle Night 2013

Its hard to believe a year has passed but its that time again - OTBN - Open That Bottle Night. With the inclusion of the next generation, our group grew from twelve to 28 resulting in an extraordinary collection and selection of wines that offered something for everyone. There were some new discoveries, a couple disappointments and some exceptional wines. Once again, OTBN - Open That Bottle Night provided great fun, food, friends and family, and of course, great wine in our OTBN 2013. Its hard to believe we surpassed the extravaganza of OTBN 2012. Also see our feature from OTBN 2011.

If you're new to OTBN, or to this blog, here's the story. Credit (or blame) for this annual wine bachanalia goes to Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher, wine columnists for the Wall Street Journal. OTBN - Open That Bottle Night, was conceived for those that have a special bottle of wine or champagne hidden away being saved for a special occasion that for whatever reason hasn't happened.  Every year since 2000, on the last Saturday night in February, Open That Bottle Night (OTBN) has been celebrated - the time to uncork and enjoy that cherished but here-to-for elusive bottle. OTBN was conceived by Gaiter and Brecher to say, what the heck, go for it, Open That Bottle (to)Night. They realized they weren't alone - having that special bottle set aside for an occasion that just never happens. On this night, you don't need an excuse or a reason - just do it! Take advantage of OTBN to open that bottle and enjoy it! Enjoy it by yourself, or better yet, enjoy it with someone special, or even better, with a group of special friends. Have everyone bring such a bottle and let the story telling begin, because amazingly, every OTBN bottle has a story or some meaning, or not. What the heck, Open That Bottle (To) Night!. Let the fun begin. 


  
The increased number of wines provided wine flights in their own right of Bordeaux, Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, and Australian Shiraz. There was also a selection of other Europeans and a medley from Central California.

Once again, Linda distinguished her hostess and hospitality skills by preparing a superb wine accompaniment dinner of beef tenderloin, pasta with grilled Italian Sausage, twice baked potatoes, green beans, corn casserole, and a dinner salad. Bev, Dan and Terry all brought a broad selection of cheeses, mixed nuts and berries. Gloria brough a 'flight' of chocolates of all cocoa percentage levels to pair with the various red wines. Ryan brought fresh shrimp cocktail, Cathy and Elise brought chocolate mousse, and I'm sure I regretably missed someone and their contribution.

But most notably, the evening was devoted to the fruits of the vine. Everyone outdid themselves with their wines selections - thanks for participating. 

The friends.... the wines

Some of the tasting highlights are posted.  


Ernie brought four Bordeaux - Chateaus Clinet 2008, Haut Gravet 2000,
Chateau Palmer 2006 and Lafon Rochet 1996.
The '08 Clinet was recommended by the Producer at the UGCB Tour recently and Ernie managed to obtain one, and then to share! Thanks Ernie.

  
Château Clinet Pomerol Bordeaux 2008

Ruby color, medium-full bodied, smooth, balanced, floral, blackberry and black raspberry fruits with hints of cassis and mocha, earthy leather, tea, and touch of spice on a polished moderate finish. 

RM 92 points. 

Chateau Palmer Margaux Bordeaux 2006

From the center of the Margaux appellation, this is the first of the great 'super second' producers, in this case, second only to the classic first growth Chateau Margaux. These classic wines have the potential to age for at least two decades in an average vintage and up to five in a great vintage, hence its easy to drink these wines too young but a great treat to watch them age by tasting a vintage over the years. 

The '06 was somewhat closed upon opening through two hours after decanting, showing medium to full body and a subtle floral nose with dark fruits of black cherries and blackberries with tones of subdued dark chocolate, tobacco, spice and sweet oak on a nicely polished and balanced moderate tannin finish; this very young wine needs at least another decade before it begins to display the full range of its true character and potential. Cabernet Sauvignon: 56%, Merlot: 44%

RM 91 points. 

 
Bill shared a heartfelt story about the year 1993 and brought three twenty years olNapa Cabernet Sauvignons to commemorate the year - Chateau Montelena, Grace Family Vineyard 29, Robert Mondavi Private Reserve and a Justin Isosceles 2000. The Grace may have been my top choice of the evening - certainly was short list favorite.

Grace Vineyards 29 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1993 

Inky purple color, medium-full bodied, smooth polished, complex black berry, black cherry fruits accented by layer of mocha with hints of tea, spice, oak, flint and smoke on a silky smooth tannin lingering finish. Surprising life in this 25 year old showing now signs of diminishing. 

RM 93 points. 


http://www.vineyard29.com/wines_29_cab_1993.html

Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 1993

Bill's notes from earlier tasting. Medium garnet color, very restrained nose. Took about two hours for this to open up. Upon popping the cork, this showed signs of being well past prime. Seemed carmelized and thin although the color showed no bricking. Between 90 and 120 minutes, this opened to reveal anise, mocha and graphite and some remaining tannins.

WCC 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=97829
 

Ryan following in footsteps brought two aged Bordeaux from the early eighties,
Canon-la-Gaffeliere 1983 and Grand Puy Ducasse 1984, and I pitched in a 1966 Suduiraut
Grand Cru Classe Sauternes
.

Following our recent gala tasting of these wines at the UGCB Tour of the 2010 vintage release, Ryan procured the Chateau Canon-la-Gaffeliere St Emiilon 1983 to commemorate Michelle's birthyear and the occasion of them expecting their first child! For a near vintage comparison test, he brought the Chateau Grand Puy Ducasse Pauillac 1984, a challenging vintage, certainly not ageworthy like the '83. Regretably these bottles were beyond suitable drinking with their fruits having given way to leather and wood elements. Initial funk on opening did give way but the fruit never revealed itself over the ensuing days.

 Eric brought a collection of top flight bottles, Kaesler Old Bastard Shiraz, Dom Perignon and Hollywood & Vine Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
mazingly svelte in its balance of varietal depth with restrained power and super finely integrated extract, it is light on its feet and majestic once in focus. Overriding harmony meets an anarchical expression of Australian classic syrah. Lifted florals dance with rich meats, coffee, cola, chocolate, pan forte, turkish delight, graphite, bitumen, cigar tobacco, black cardamom, good quality soy sauce and crushed rocks. It is dense, yet creamy smooth. - See more at: http://www.clarendonhills.com.au/Wines/Syrah/Astralis.aspx#sthash.Vc4fLh1r.dpuf
mazingly svelte in its balance of varietal depth with restrained power and super finely integrated extract, it is light on its feet and majestic once in focus. Overriding harmony meets an anarchical expression of Australian classic syrah. Lifted florals dance with rich meats, coffee, cola, chocolate, pan forte, turkish delight, graphite, bitumen, cigar tobacco, black cardamom, good quality soy sauce and crushed rocks. It is dense, yet creamy smooth. - See more at: http://www.clarendonhills.com.au/Wines/Syrah/Astralis.aspx#sthash.Vc4fLh1r.dpuf
Amazingly svelte in its balance of varietal depth with restrained power and super finely integrated extract, it is light on its feet and majestic once in focus. Overriding harmony meets an anarchical expression of Australian classic syrah. Lifted florals dance with rich meats, coffee, cola, chocolate, pan forte, turkish delight, graphite, bitumen, cigar tobacco, black cardamom, good quality soy sauce and crushed rocks. It is dense, yet creamy smooth. - See more at: http://www.clarendonhills.com.au/Wines/Syrah/Astralis.aspx#sthash.Vc4fLh1r.dpuf
Amazingly svelte in its balance of varietal depth with restrained power and super finely integrated extract, it is light on its feet and majestic once in focus. Overriding harmony meets an anarchical expression of Australian classic syrah. Lifted florals dance with rich meats, coffee, cola, chocolate, pan forte, turkish delight, graphite, bitumen, cigar tobacco, black cardamom, good quality soy sauce and crushed rocks. It is dense, yet creamy smooth. - See more at: http://www.clarendonhills.com.au/Wines/Syrah/Astralis.aspx#sthash.Vc4fLh1r.dpuf

Amazingly svelte in its balance of varietal depth with restrained power and super finely integrated extract, it is light on its feet and majestic once in focus. Overriding harmony meets an anarchical expression of Australian classic syrah. Lifted florals dance with rich meats, coffee, cola, chocolate, pan forte, turkish delight, graphite, bitumen, cigar tobacco, black cardamom, good quality soy sauce and crushed rocks. It is dense, yet creamy smooth. - See more at: http://www.clarendonhills.com.au/Wines/Syrah/Astralis.aspx#sthash.Vc4fLh1r.dpuf
Hollywood & Vine Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2003

Named for the address of the vineyard property purchased by this tandem of Hollywood entertainment industry executives, this small production hand crafted cabernet is a big bruiser fitting its oversize heavy almost magnum like bottle.

Nicely balanced and polished, dark purple color and full bodied with full forward black berry, black currant and spicy oak flavors with a layer of mocha, tea and hint of cassis on a lingering smooth moderate tannin finish.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=159041

http://www.hollywoodandvinewine.com/

Spottswoode Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

Served from Magnum. Lighter and more subdued than I expected - medium bodied, smooth and well balanced, hints of leather and tobacco on the nose, black berry and black cherry fruits, moderate, soft tannins on the finish. Holding its own for the age, perhaps due to the magnum, but not overly flavorful or structured. An expensive bottle for a grand occasion did live up to expectations, although was not flawed or diminished, just not impressive. 

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=25904


Lyle brought a aged Dow Vintage Port 1977
and a Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 2000

Lyle had the runaway best wine story of the evening that took everyone by surprise, no one saw it coming!  
 
Mark C brought two Eden Valley Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignons 2005, 2009.
Cabs from Paso Robles? - Undoubtedly the surprise discoveries of the evening!


Eden Canyon Paso Robles “Estate” Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

This was the surprise discovery of the evening. Cabernet from Paso Robles? Here's one. The producer calls this "The Chocolate Vintage".  Medium body, black berry and black cherry fruits with hints of chocolate, cassis and a vanilla on a moderate, smooth tannin finish. The 2009 was nice too but not as polished, full bodied or flavorful, but still respectable, exceeding expectations with a 88 score.

RM 90 points.



 Justin brought a double magnum of James Tobin Paso Robles Rock--Roll Syrah 2007 signed by the winemaker. We had just announced that 'size counts' before Jared arrived late - did he have a mole?

Dan brought Sea Smoke Gratis Chardonnay, Valduero Gran Reserva and Clarendon Hills Astralis 

Rare sighting, the four amigos,
Eric, Rick, Bob & Dan.

Bob brought a duo of Napa Cabernets from Frog's Leap and Silver Oak and The Prisoner


Sara brought two Aussie Shiraz's, Shotfire and Hope.
'The house / (host)' served a pair of magnums from Napa Valley, Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 and Duckhorn Sauvignon Blanc, a vintage 1966 Suduiraut Grand Cru Classe Sauternes Bordeaux, a Kracher TBA '6' 1998 and a pair of Italian sparklers.

Chateau Suduiraut Grand Cru Classe Sauternes Bordeaux 1966

Still life in this 45 year old but notably past its prime and reaching the last chapter of its drinking window. Decent cork and acceptable fill level - further indications of the suitability of our cellar for long term aging. A blend of Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc.Dark caramel or weak tea in colour. Still flavorful but lacking that apricot nectar sweetness, rather, more weak tea and moderate almond nut flavor with very subdued honey and hints of citrus.

RM 87
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=159298

http://www.suduiraut.com/  

Kracher Zwischen Den Seen Welschriesling Trockenbeereneauslese #6 1998 

Dark orange caramel tea colored, full bodied, essence of thick chewy unctuous apricot nector, hint of honey and almond on the finish, nicely balance of acidity and sweetness adds to length. At fifteen years this  is still in its prime.

RM 92 points.


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=27074

http://www.kracher.at/en/ 

Post Mortem - Unfortunate, bottles that were past their time, or unsuitable specimens:
  • Dow Vintage Port 1977 
  • Chateau Canon-la-Gaffeliere 1983 
  • Chateau Grand Puy Ducasse 1984
The wines by flight - 
Flight Sparklers

Flight White Varietals

Duckhorn Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2009

Nice starting wine to set the pallete. An honest unadulterated wine that best reflects the fruit. Straw colored, medium bodied, clean crisp easy drinking with subtle flavors of citrus, melon, hints of lychee, pear and touch of peach turning to soft tones of grapefruit and lime notes on the finish.

RM 89 Points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=878604

http://www.duckhorn.com/Accolades/Sauvignon-Blanc/2009-Napa-Valley-Sauvignon-Blanc


 Flight Paso Robles

Flight Southern European Reds

Flight Bordeaux Rouge

 Flight Northern California (Napa/Sonoma) Cabernets

Flight Australian Shiraz

What a great opportunity to compare the flagship wines of these two premiere Australian producers, Kaesler and Clarendon Hills. I wonder if a better comparison might be the Old Bastard against Clarendon Hill's Piggott Range which is one of the biggest Syrahs I've ever experienced. Kaesler says it needs fifteen years of cellaring and can be held for fifty. By their own admission, Clarendon Hills refer to Astralis as being more 'svelte' in its balance and 'restrained power with super finely integrated extract, light on its feet and majestic once in focus." When compared against the extraordinary 2001, its easy to see Astralis being over powered by the bigger bolder Old Bastard, perhaps by design. 


Kaesler Old Bastard Barossa Valley Shiraz 2001 

The 2001 growing season in the south central Australian Barossa Valley was the hottest since 1904 resulting in immense full forward flavors and 15% alcohol content in this brooding monster. Dark inky purple colored and full bodied. Thick chewy tongue coating blackberry, black raspberry, plum, blueberry, with mocha and spice complexity. Aromas of vanilla, coffee and charred oak offer added complexity. 

RM 95 points. 



Amazingly svelte in its balance of varietal depth with restrained power and super finely integrated extract, it is light on its feet and majestic once in focus. Overriding harmony meets an anarchical expression of Australian classic syrah. Lifted florals dance with rich meats, coffee, cola, chocolate, pan forte, turkish delight, graphite, bitumen, cigar tobacco, black cardamom, good quality soy sauce and crushed rocks. It is dense, yet creamy smooth. - See more at: http://www.clarendonhills.com.au/Wines/Syrah/Astralis.aspx#sthash.Vc4fLh1r.dpuf
Clarendeon Hills Astralis Shiraz 2004

The Astralis was medium to full bodied but more subdued than the big brooding Old Bastard. Dark purple colored it presented forward spicy blackberry and black raspberry ruits highlighted by a layer of cassis and hints of mocha and touch of vanilla. 

RM 92 points.


 Flight Desserts
 

 Picture Gallery - 
Lyle holding court - the story..
 
The Kracher TBA
Terry & Linda

How do you like that aged Sauternes?
Erin & Johnny and Jared,
Val and Ann
Elyse, Cathy, Ann, Erin

Johnny, Jared

Bill, Ryan, Mark.
Bill and Grace Vineyard 29

 Erin, Terry.

 The Forts
 Sean working the kitchen