Long Shadows Sequel Shiraz with BBQ Ribs

Long Shadows Sequel Columbia Valley Shiraz with BBQ Ribs

Quiet relaxing night at home, watching this week’s episode of “The Voice”, Linda prepared BBQ ribs with baked potatoes, texas toast and salad. I pulled from the cellar this classic Columbia Valley Shiraz from legendary Australian producer John Duval, for one of our favorite food and wine pairing combinations.

I wrote about this label, the winemaker, and the Long Shadows Vintners program upon release and receipt of our wine club allocation shipment back in 2020 which I featured in these pages, excerpted here.  

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/03/long-shadows-sequel-syrah-2017.html

From March 16, 2020

Long Shadows “Sequel” Syrah 2017

We just received our Vault Key Club release allocation shipment of Long Shadows Vintners Series which included this Sequel Syrah 2017. We discovered and signed up for this during our Washington Wine Experience when we visited the winery tasting room in Woodinville last fall.

This is a selection of the Long Shadows Vintners Collection, a portfolio of seven ultra-premium wines showcasing the viticulture of the Washington State Columbia Valley growing region and the artwork and expertise of internationally acclaimed winemakers who crafted them.

Long Shadows was founded in 2003 by Washington State wine legend Allen Shoup, former Chairman and CEO of Chateau St Michelle, one of the premiere wine producers in the State. There he evangelized Washington Wines and championed collaboration with notable winemakers from around the world. 

Upon retiring, he started Long Shadows with a vision to produce the best, art of the possible wines showcasing/featuring the region's grapes, each produced by a world renowned winemaker reputed for producing grapes of that varietal. Each vintner had access to Washington State's best grapes and a winery outfitted to accommodate their exacting cellar specifications. The idea was a resounding success as the wines have received critical acclaim that has grown with each vintage. The Long Shadow collection went on to win numerous awards, including recognition as Food & Wine magazine's "Winery of the Year."

The winemaker for Sequal Syrah is notable legendary Shiraz/Syrah winemaker John Duval, best known for his work with Penfolds’ Grange, the gold standard for Australian Shiraz. Few winemakers are as synonymous with the iconic wines of a country as John Duval and this label, arguably the most famous and well known label from Australia.

John joined Penfolds winery in 1974 after completing his studies in agriculture and winemaking. In 1986 John was appointed Chief Winemaker, following the winemaking greats Max Schubert and Don Ditter. During his time as Chief Winemaker, John helped establish Penfolds as one of the world’s great wine brands.

While his honors and awards are too numerous to list, some of the highlights include the Robert Mondavi Trophy for Winemaker of the Year in 1989 at the International Wine & Spirits Competition in London; two-time recipient of the Red Winemaker of the Year award at the International Wine Challenge in London, first in 1991 and then again in 2000; and Wine Spectator’s “Wine of the Year” award in 1995 for the 1990 vintage of Penfolds Grange. We collect and hold that wine as one of the signature wines for our son Alec as part of his birth-year wines horizontal collection. Hence, our affinity for and special interest in this label - appropriately named, “Sequel”.

After 28 years, John stepped down from the company in 2002 to establish John Duval Wines, debuting with the 2003 vintage and producer today of four wines under his John Duval Wines label, all Rhone varietals, a white from Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier, and three reds; one a "GSM" (Shiraz, Grenache, and Mourvedre), and two Shiraz'.

In addition to making his own wine, John also has a joint venture project with Ventisquero in the Apalta Valley, Chile.

In 2003, John traveled to the Washington State Columbia Valley at the invitation of Long Shadows Vintners’ founder Allen Shoup to make his first U.S. wine, Sequel, a name chosen in recognition of his life’s work with Syrah.

Never one to be far from great Shiraz, he currently resides in the Barossa Valley, home to some of Australia’s oldest vines.

Long Shadow's Vintners Series “Sequal” Shiraz 2017

Long Shadow's Vintners Series Sequal 2017 Shiraz is sourced from Yakima Valley's Boushey Vineyard for 1/3 of the fruit, to which the winemaker attributes 'bright and elgant character', one third is from Bacchus Vineyard Syrah, grown on a south-facing block planted in 1993, adds black fruit character and richness, and Red Mountain Syrah adds to the wine's dark, brooding character and backbone. Two thousand eighty five cases were produced. 

According to the producer's, the 2017 vintage was a 'classic' much like the 2012 and 2013, with moderate temperatures and extended hang times which enabled the grapes to achieve full maturity and color. This laid the foundation for vibrant dark fruit characteristics lifted by bright and well balanced acidity. 

This release was awarded 94 points by International Wine Review and James Suckling, and 93 points by Jeb Dunnuck, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate and Vinous. 

Winemaker's notes: "Deep and inky color ... aromas and flavors of fresh blueberry, violet and a hint of cassis. Black olive tapenade and savory spice persist across the mid-palate. Multi-layered an well structured, the wine's refined texture and enticing viscosity lead to a long impressive finish. 

This was finished by aging 18 months in French oak barrels, with 60% of them being new. 

Dark inky purple colored, full bodied, bold and concentrated yet smooth, balanced and polished, flavors of black raspberry and blue fruits, notes of cassis, spice and what the winemaker called black olive tapenade are apparent, turning to a long flavorful finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/barcode.asp?iWine=3545970

In 2020 I wrote, “Give it some time to settle and integrate the fruits for more polish and balance.” That said, it was much more approachable, more smooth, balanced and polished, than the unctuous sweet fruit bomb Venge from the other evening (review coming), or the evening more intense, huge, Tensely Santa Barbara County Shiraz 2022 (which I called “almost intense”) from earlier in the week. Vinous actually called it “Silky and seamless on entry“. Wine Advocate called it “beautifully balanced”. 

Tensely Santa Barbara County Shiraz 2022

https://www.cellartracker.com/barcode.asp?iWine=3545970

https://longshadows.com/

@LongShadowsWine 

Zaca Mesa & Carpenter Creek Red Blends with BBQ Ribs

Zaca Mesa & Carpenter Creek Red Blends with BBQ Ribs 

Hosting Linda’s friends at The Cove, our vacation rental home in Destin, FL, Linda prepared BBQ Ribs with baked potatoes, sweet potatoes, asparagus and salad. 

I brought from our home cellar a couple wines for a food wine accompaniment for the occasion. 

Playing on Kay Z’s name, we brought and drank a ‘Z’ wine, a Syrah from Zaca Mesa.

Zaca Mesa Toyon Santa Ynez Valley Red Wine 2019

We tasted this wine at the winery and acquired it through our wine club allocation and wrote about receiving the shipment in an earlier blogpost - Zaca Mesa Mesa Reserve Santa Ynez Syrah. 

We just received our wine club allocation fall shipment from Zaca Mesa Winery. We visited the Zaca Mesa Estate and Vineyards in Santa Ynez Valley during our Santa Barbara County Wine Experience last spring. We joined their wine club after tasting their portfolio of Rhone varietal based wines highlighting Syrah, one of our favorite varietals.

This was one of the last bottles from that shipment, a mixed case of Zaca Mesa wines, that we had been holding to share and enjoy with our friend Kay Z. We wrote about this label in an earlier blogpost, excerpted here. 

Brambly bushes and shrubs around 
Foxen Trail Vineyards

Zaca Mesa Toyon is a red blend wine named after a native shrub found growing in the sandy hills and terraces that surround the estate vineyards. Toyon (also known as California Holly and Christmas Berry) is a native evergreen that grows into a dense 10 feet tall and 8 feet wide drought-resistant shrub. Covered in leathery leaves all year, it blooms pretty, but unspectacular, white flowers in summer.

Zaca Mesa Toyon is a unique blend comprised of a combination of Santa Ynez Valley Rhône and Bordeaux grape varietals, sourced from fruit grown on and off the estate.

Zaca Mesa Estate Vineyard adjacent the winery

Writing about the unique combination of grapes in this label's blend,   Matt Kettmann of Wine Enthusiast called it a "kitchen sink blend".  He gave the 2016 release of this label 90 points. 

The primary grape selection is akin to a Châteauneuf-du-Pape from the so named appellation in the southern Rhône River valley where the primary grapes required to be in the blend are G-S-M - Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. 

The GSM combination and so-called label is a popular blend released by many producers in Australia, California and Washington State - areas where Rhône varietals are grown. 

But Zaca Mesa take it a step further and adds the popular Bordeaux varietal grape Cabernet Sauvignon to the mix creating a complex wine that is somewhat a cacaphony of flavors, although the producer calls it a "seamless wine that is unlike anything else we produce".

Zaca Mesa Toyon Santa Ynez Valley Red Wine 2019

The actual blend consists of Shiraz/Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Mourvedre, and Cinsault grapes. Cinsault is another Rhône varietal. 

 

Toyon 2019 was aged 19 months in neutral oak 

Better than previous tasting, perhaps benefiting from a few years in bottle aging.

This was dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, complex, a cacophony of flavors with strawberry, black cherry currant and plum flavors with a layer of vanilla, accented by herbs, sweet tobacco and cinnamon spice, notes of earthy cedar and anise and a bit of pepper on a moderate tannin tangy acidic lingering finish. 

 

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4443020

www.zacamesa.com

@zacamesawinery @zacamesa

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2022/11/zaca-mesa-toyon-santa-ynez-valley-red.html

Paying tribute to our shared Hoosier (Indiana) heritage, we also opened and enjoyed a wine from Northern Indiana based Carpenter Creek Cellars. 

Carpenter Creek Cellars Fence Row Red NV

We tasted and acquired this wine at the winery. We featured the producer and their wines in a detailed blogpost of that visited back in 2020,  Carpenter Creek Cellars Indiana Produced Wines, excerpted below. 

We stopped at Carpenter Creek Cellars while passing through Jasper County in Northwest Central Indiana. They're located just off Interstate 65 in Remington, Indiana halfway between Lafayette and Chicago, not far from our family farm, relatively speaking. 

We've passed this spot literally hundreds of times over the years before stopping to visit the local winery,  Carpenter Creek Cellars. Exit I65 from the North at exit SR114, or from the south at State Road 231. Follow the signs on the back country roads to the winery on Jordan Road. 

Various photos here of Carpenter Creek from visits there in December 2019 and again in 2020.  

Winemaker Randy Rottler (left) and proprietor 
partner Ed Courtright

During visits there we tasted and acquired several labels from their broad extensive portfolio - remarkable as they exceeded my expectations for Indiana produced wines. This is a testament to the craft and handiwork of partner proprietors Ed Courtright (right), who wanted to grow grapes in northern Indiana to supply wineries in the area, and winemaker Randy Rottler, who had dreams of starting a small winery.

The farm has been in the Courtright family for three generations. Ed and his son Byron planted their first grape vines in 2002, in what became Byron's vineyard. In 2011, they planted 1.1 acres of Traminette, the Midwestern grape used to produce Indiana's signature wine. After two years of building a business, and one year of restoring a barn/planting vineyards/doing paperwork ... they opened to the public in 2013. Just six months later, they won awards at the 2013 Indy (Indianapolis) International (wine festival) - a Silver Medal in Carpenter Creek labels - Gunny White, Sunset Rosé, and Sunset Red and Bronze Medals for both the Gunny Red and the Riesling. 

Carpenter Creek is a farm winery housed in a quaint picturesque renovated 1919 barn. There is the winery and a tasting room of Carpenter Creek Cellars broad portfolio of wines. The estate is actually visible from the interstate highway, I65.

They claim to produce "world-class wines which embody the best terroir and fruit the Midwest has to offer". 

While I agree that they 'produce wines that embody the best terroir and fruit the Midwest has to offer', the front of that claim leaves much to be desired. The terroir, climate and soil are not well suited to vinis vinifera (wine grapes). It’s not their fault that Indiana, and most of the Midwest for that matter, is not well suited to growing fine wine varietal grapes. Their challenge is that what makes Indiana a top producer of corn and soybeans, tomatoes and other vegetables and fruits, is precisely why it is not well suited for wine grapes. 

As I written often in these pages, the concept of terroir embodies all the elements of a place that affect the growing of varietal grapes - climate, soil, drainage, sun exposure, slope and elevation, proximity to climate impacting bodies of water, and so on. Needless to say, the terroir of Indiana in most respects is not ideal for growing wine grapes. In any event, there are now more than a hundred Indiana wineries that span virtually all regions of the agricultural state from corner to corner. 

World class wine growing regions are in certain latitudes in areas with moderate or hot climates, in areas that are arid and possess poor rocky, well drained soils that would otherwise be harsh to the likes of corn or tomatoes. Ideal grape growing conditions - terroir - actually stress the grapes, forcing them to establish deep deep roots to strain in capturing nutrients from the sparse soil, which is largely void of sufficiency to grow extensive vines and foliage, or corn. In short, the conditions for wine varietal grapes are almost the opposite of those for the cornbelt. 

While Bordeaux varietals are suited for Napa Valley in the US, not so much in Indiana. One popular grape selected for Indiana and Illinois wines is Traminette. There are eighteen different varieties of grapes grown in Indiana on a total of 600 acres of vineyard lands. 

The concept of AVA's, American Viticultural Areas, is based on federally-recognized regions defined either by political boundaries, such as the name of a county, state or country, or by a designated area for that AVA. All the criteria for an AVA come down to terroir so that all wines from that AVA can be presumed to have the same characteristics, or from grapes grown under the same conditions. This is the same as in the old world wine producing countries, where they have rigorous grape growing and wine producing regulations subject to AOC - Appellation d'origine contrôlée regulations in France, and DOC and DOCG in Italy ((Denominazione di origine controllata e garantita (DOCG) is the  superior classification to DOC). 

While there are 57 official appellations in Bordeaux, and seventeen in Napa Valley. Indiana has two designated AVAs, the Indiana Uplands AVA in the center of the state at the southern border along the Ohio River, and the Ohio River Valley AVA straddling the Ohio River along the southern border of the state. 

In order for a wine to be designated with an Appellation of Origin defined by a political boundary, such as a county name for example, federal law requires that 75 percent or more of grapes used to make the wine be from that appellation, such as Napa Valley.

Carpenter Creek Cellars source many of their grapes from California regions - central coast, Sierra foothills, central valley. They also source grapes grown in the Midwest, those tend to be from the southern reaches of Indiana in the two AVAs bordering the Ohio River, or from the wine growing areas of western Michigan, straddling Lake Michigan or Ohio, along Lake Erie, where the Lakes' have significant moderating effects on the local climate. 

Carpenter Creek have planted vineyards adjacent to the winery but they lost many of their planted vines due to the harsh winters and extreme cold and deep freeze of the soil. 

All that said, partners Ed Courtright and Randy Rottler have done an admirable job crafting some pleasant drinkable wines, that most assuredly represent nearly the best achievable outcomes from the grape sources available to them.

They produce an extensive portfolio of wines that cover the range from reds and whites, along with a port-like fortified wine, a dessert wine, and a Rose'.

Carpenter Creek Cellars Fence Row Red NV

Carpenter Creek Cellars sources many of their grapes from California regions - central coast, Sierra foothills, central valley. They also source grapes grown in the Midwest, those tend to be from the southern reaches of Indiana in the two AVAs bordering the Ohio River, or from the wine growing areas of western Michigan, straddling Lake Michigan or Ohio, along Lake Erie, where the Lakes' have significant moderating effects on the local climate. 

This label is a Bordeaux style red blend of grapes sourced from the California Central Coast.

This was a nice fun tasting accompaniment to the BBQ Ribs. 

Opaque ruby colored, medium bodied, moderately dry flavors of fresh black and red berry fruits with notes of leather and black tea with a pleasant flavorful finish. 

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2577747

https://carpentercreekcellars.com/

https://twitter.com/carpenterwines

http://IndianaWines.org

Ridge Pagani Ranch Zinfandel with BBQ Ribs

Ridge Pagani Ranch Sonoma Valley Zinfandel Red Blend 2017 with BBQ Ribs

Friday night finds us babysitting for kids/grandkids for the evening. Linda prepared BBQ ribs with baked potatoes and sweet potatoes to take for dinner. I pulled from the cellar a Big Red Blend for an ideal accompaniment. 

This is from Ridge Vineyards known for single-vineyard designated labels sourced from exceptional vineyards across Northern California with distinctive terroir - climate, soil, and ideally matched varietals. 

I wrote about Ridge Vineyards and other single vineyard designated releases including Zinfandels often in these pages such as these blogposts - Ridge Vineyards "Lytton Springs" Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel 2014, and, Ridge Lytton Springs at Gordon Ramsey's Kitchen Naperville, and Ridge Lytton Springs Zinfandel Red Blend 2012.

Ridge Vineyards produce a broad portfolio of single vineyard designated Zinfandel labels. They are also known for their ultra-premium flagship Monte Bello red blend produced from their estate vineyard of the same name, first released in 1962. Two years later they released their first Zinfandel label. 

Ridge Vineyards Pagani Ranch Sonoma Valley Zinfandel Red Blend 2017

This Zinfandel based blend is made from the Pagani vineyard on the western side of Sonoma Valley. The majority of the vineyard was planted ninety to one hundred and twenty years ago; portions of it were replanted between 2013—2018. Ridge first released this label in 1991.

The vineyard has been continuously tended by a quality-conscious family for four generations having been planted by Felice Pagani who began planting vines in Sonoma Valley in the late 1890s. 

The site was maintained and therefore survived the thirteen years of Prohibition, and the Great Depression indicating proof of its merit.

Today, the site is tended by fourth-generation family members planted to Petite Sirah, Alicante Bouschet, and Mataro, in addition to the main varietal, Zinfandel.

This release is a unique blend of 84% Zinfandel, 7% Petite Sirah, 7% Alicante Bouschet, and 2% Mataro.

In my last blogpost I wrote about the Aglianico Italian grape varietal and I wondered if there was any connection with this Alicante Bouschet varietal. There is not, but it opens the door for the exploration here of another historic and previously unknown grape. 

Alicante Bouschet is a red grape with red flesh and red pulp that is a cross of Petit Bouschet and Grenache grape varietals. It was developed by French Viticulturalist Henri Bouschet in 1866. The Petit Bouschet grape was created by his father Louis Bouschet who gave it his name. 

The resulting grape had high quality concentrated fruit with deep dense color, produced high yields, ripened early and was easy to grow and maintain. Its deep colour made it useful for blending to enhance light French table wines and to extend American wines.

Alicante Bouschet delivered rich, concentrated dark fruit flavors of ripe blackberry, black cherry, and blackcurrant with notes of pepper and fresh tobacco.

It was planted heavily during Prohibition in California as the intense red color was useful for stretching wine and was capable for export to the East Coast. The grape's thick skin allowed it to survive the long railway transportation from California to New York City which had an auction where the grapes were sold.

At the turn of the 21st century, Alicante Bouschet was the 12th most planted red wine grape in France with sizable plantings in Bordeaux, Burgundy, Loire Valley the Languedoc, Provence and Cognac regions and Alentejo, Portugal.

The Matero grape is also known as the popular French Mourvèdre and the popular Spanish Monastrell varietals.

This release of Ridge Pagini Ranch Zinfandel was awarded 96 Points by Zinfandel Chronicles, 94 Points by Jeff Cox of Decanter, 94 Points by Antonio Galloni of Vinous Media, Jeb Dunnuck of JebDunnuck.com and Erin Brooks of The Wine Advocate, and 93 Points by James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com and Wilfred Wong of Wine.com.

Winemaker Notes - “Focused jammy blueberry fruit and pepper on the nose. On the palate, fresh cherry, mineral, firm acidity, balanced structure and long lingering finish.”

Dark inky garnet purple color, full bodied, complex, round, ripe plum and brambly blackberry and blueberry fruits, notes of peppercorn, garrigue, smokey cresosote, spice box and leather with hints of mocha turning to sweet grainy tannins on a layered lingering finish.

RM 92 points.

ttps://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3333655

https://www.ridgewine.com/

@RidgeVineyards

Roger Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservé with BBQ Ribs

Roger Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservé with BBQ Ribs 

We acquired a six pack case of this wine shortly after release back in 2010. Our tasting notes of the previous three bottles we consumed over the years read nearly identically, and could be replayed to accurately portray tonight’s tasting - consumed at home with BBQ ribs and baked potatoes ….

Roger Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservé 2007

This is from the Roger Sabon family run domaine/estate, named for its founder who started producing wines in 1952 from family vineyards that date back to 1540.  The Sabon family can trace their family roots in the Southern Rhone Valley back to 1540, which is nine years older than Beaucastel, a major leading historic producer in the area. 

The first vintage bottled by what know today as Roger Sabon was in 1921. At the time, the Domaine was managed by Seraphin Sabon. Sabon had three entrepreneurial, successful sons; Joseph Sabon, who founded Clos du Mont Olivet, Noel Sabon, who started the Domaine Chante Cigale, and Roger.

Roger passed responsibility for the domaine over to his three sons, Gilbert, Jean-Jacques and Denis in 1976. Today, they are joined by Denis’ daughter, Delphine, who runs the commercial side of the winery and his son, Julien who works with him managing the vineyards. Jean-Jacques son-in-law Didier Negron is in charge of the winemaking, having previously worked at other prestigious domaines in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Under the helm of Winemaker Didier Negron, Domaine Roger Sabon stands among the top handful of producers in the Southern Rhône. 

The winery lies on the edge of the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a short walk from the village center. Over the years the domaine vineyard holdings have grown to a total of 117 acres, split up on both sides of the Rhône River of which 42 are within the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation, on the left bank of the River, and spread over 14 different plots.

On the right bank, the vineyard includes 30 acres in the Lirac appellation, 15 acres of Côtes-du-Rhône and 35 acres of Vin de France.

Their diversity of locations, even plots within the same appellation, have a broad range of different geological profiles, from which Sabon produce a broad portfolio of wines with varied profiles. 

They produce four Châteauneuf du Pape cuvées starting with an entry level Les Olivets from younger vines. This Cuvée Reserve comes from the primary estate vineyards sourced from vines planted on La Crau Ouest and La Grenade. It is a blend of 70-80% Grenache and the rest Syrah and Mourvèdre, and is aged in foudre (large oak vat/barrels) and oak tanks. 

Another, Cuvée Prestige is based on 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and the rest mostly Mourvèdre that’s aged in foudre, oak tanks, and demi-muids. 

The smallest production cuvée (there are usually just 100 cases produced), the Le Secret des Sabon is based mostly on a field blend of Grenache that’s raised completely in tronconique oak tanks.

All the Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape reds age for 18 months. The first six months are spent in concrete or stainless-steel vats in order to remove the roughest lees with the help of the first cold of winter. After this period, our different cuvees are blended and put into wooden containers of different dimensions, 40hl for the largest ones (foudres), 25hl for the truncated tanks, and 600 litres for the double hogsheads (demi-muids).

We visited the area several times over the years, most recently in 2019 with son Alec and Vivianna, featured in blogposts in these pages -

 

La Presqu'Ile Restaurant à Bédarrides Vaucluse France

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe. Châteauneuf-du-Pape

A visit to Château La Nerthe

Roger Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservé 2007

As noted, this is one of our perennial favorite food and wine pairings, Châteauneuf du Pape reds or other Southern Rhône cuvées with hearty BBQ. This is almost a complete and accurate replay of an earlier tasting of this wine, we opened this to serve with barbecue ribs, an ideal pairing which thereby enhances and amplifies the enjoyment of both.

I wrote back in 2021, “Consistent with my last tasting of this wine going on just two years ago, at fourteen years, this 2007 vintage release may be at the apex of its drinking profile and window. The fill level, label and cork were perfect.” 

Tonight, I would reiterate the same thing, albeit now at 18 years.  

While somewhat subdued the first evening upon opening, I reopened it the next evening and it was more expressive,  bigger and more complex with more pronounced fruits. 

This wine was rated 92 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, Jeb Dunnuck, Wine Spectator and Vinous - a rare occasion of absolute concensus amongst four leading wine critics.  

This is a blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% Cinsault CDP varietals. 

As written in previous tasting, classic Châteauneuf-du-Pape profile and characteristics, minus the black pepper notes which are suppressed and replaced by notes of lavender and floral. 

Deep, dark ruby/purple colored, medium to full-bodied, black berry and black currant fruits with licorice, black tea, notes of vanilla bean, roasted herb, forest floor and meaty aromas with smooth tangy black cherry notes, licorice and smoky minerals lingering on a moderate tannin laced finish. 

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=634331

http://www.domainerogersabon.com/en/__trashed/

Earlier posts … 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/09/roger-sabon-chateauneuf-du-pape-cuvee.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2021/07/roger-sabon-chateauneuf-du-pape-cuvee.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2021/04/roger-sabon-chateauneuf-du-pape-cuvee.html

Marquis Phillips “9” McLaren Vale Shiraz 2007

Marquis Phillips “9” McLaren Vale Shiraz 2007 with BBQ Ribss

Linda prepared a delicious meal of BBQ Ribs with baked potatoes, sweet potatoes and sweet corn, for us, and to take to an ailing friend. I pulled from the cellar this big bold aged Aussie Shiraz for a wine accompaniment. 

We loved the Marquis Philips portfolio of wines and wrote about them extensively in these pages, and of course, today, they’re now the widely popular Mollydooker brand.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2022/02/mollydooker-scooter-merlot.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2024/12/blue-eyed-boy-mclaren-vale-shiraz-2020.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2014/02/mollydooker-carnival-of-love-shiraz-2011.html

Marquis Philips, back in the day, was formed as a collaboration between the U.S. importer Dan Philips and Sparky and Sarah Marquis, highly-regarded Australian winemakers, who brought Fox Creek to cult fame. There was a falling out between the founders in late 2005 and the Marquis started their own label, Mollydooker. (Marquis Philips wines made since about 2005 were overseen by Chris Ringland, another legendary Australian winemaker.)

While Marquis Philips wines were known for their eye-catching, often provocative labels such as the ‘roogle’, a cross between an eagle and kangaroo - representing the Aussie, American partnership, Mollydooker went on to create their own portfolio is whimsical eye-catching labels. 

Robert Parker writings about Marquis Philips at the time  …

“Marquis Philips is the most exciting wine project to emerge from Australia, and perhaps the New World, in the last year. Run, don't walk to a client of The Grateful Palate and secure as much as you can of these wines. This must be the most exciting development that has occurred in the Southern Hemisphere over the last several years. Marquis Philips is a partnership between highly talented winemakers Sarah and Sparky Marquis and their American importer, Dan Philips (of The Grateful Palate). I favorably reviewed the stunning debut values of the Marquis Philips range in the 2000 vintage. Remarkably, the 2001s are even more amazing, and probably for the price, the greatest red wine values in existence ... anywhere! 

Robert Parker, Wine Advocate #143 (Oct 2002)”

“The highly respected South Australian viticulturists/winemakers, Sarah and Sparky Marquis, in partnership with their importer, Dan Philips of the Grateful Palate, successfully launched the inexpensive line of Marquis Philips wines several years ago, creating something of a monster because of their enormous crowd appeal.” Wine Advocate, Review Date: 02/2013

Robert Parker wrote about this label - Perhaps another way to think of these wines is that they are XXX-rated stuff. They’re not exactly wines for those wanting finesse, lightness, restraint, or intellectual challenge. These are totally decadent homages to joy and yumminess. Or. As a friend of mine said, they are ‘fragrantly delicious.'"

Because of Marquis Philips’ tumultuous history, the affordable wines became highly sought-after and difficult to obtain. We acquired several vintages of this, and their premium flagship label at several auctions. We still hold three bottles of the ten we acquired of this release, our last remaining holdings having consumed all of our other six previous vintage releases. 

Just recently, we drank the last remaining bottle of their ultra-premium flagship “Integrity” label - featured in this blogpost - Premium Napa and Aussie Reds for Family Birthday Celebration.

Of course, the Sparky and Sarah Marquis saga continued and became more interesting. The turmoil in the house of Philips continued as Sarah and Sparky then had a falling out of their own, eventually divorcing, and winemaker Sarah bought out Sparky. 

Sparky, it turns out was a friend of Aussie colleague Peter F, my Australian employee representative region manager in Adelaide, South Central Australia, when I was still running a global software company! I had plans to visit Aussie wine country and meet Sparky, then Covid, and I never made the trip. 

Marquis Philips '9' South Australia,  McLaren Vale Shiraz 2007

Marquis Philips 9
McLaren Vale Shiraz
2005 shown

At seventeen years, the important fill level and cork were in ideal condition, as were the foil and label, as shown. This may be at the end of its prime drinking window as it’s starting to show its age, slightly, and should be consumed over the next few years. 

Consistent with earlier tasting notes, except starting to sho9w its age a bit, taking on a bit of slight camphor alcohol sharpness on the finish … , 

Deep dark opaque purple color - full-bodied, thick and firm mouthfeel, blueberry, blackberry, spice, hints of mineral, tea and tobacco on a oaky full tannin finish.

RM 90, reduced from previous 92 points. WA 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=651009

https://mollydookerwines.com.au/

https://twitter.com/MollydookerWine

https://twitter.com/unwindwine

Phelps Syrah with BBQ Ribs Dinner

Phelps Syrah with BBQ Ribs Dinner 

Linda prepared BBQ ribs and I pulled from the cellar this aged Syrah from one of our favorite producers for a food/wine pairing. 

This is from Joseph Phelps, primarily known for ultra-premium Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons and Bordeaux varietal blends. 

Our Joseph Phelps Napa Valley Winery Tasting,  a private tasting at the spectacular Joseph Phelps Vineyards and Winery hospitality center, was a highlight of our Pour Boys  2017 Sonoma/Napa Wine Experience.

I acquired this label at auction a while back and was delighted to find this buried in our wine cellar, a label we’ve never had, so we were eager to try this, ideally paired with one of favorite pairings. 

According to the Joseph Phelps website, this label is only available exclusively to Phelps Preferred wine club members. 

Here is the Wine Bid Auction profile of Joseph Phelps Vineyards 

“Joseph Phelps Vineyards is a family-owned winery based in St. Helena. It was founded in 1973 when Joseph Phelps, a building contractor from Colorado, arrived in Napa Valley to build wineries. He soon decided to make his own wine and purchased a former cattle ranch near St. Helena. Phelps Vineyards now owns or leases 560 acres of vineyards in Napa Valley and the Sonoma Coast. The estate owns choice properties in St. Helena, Stags Leap, Oakville, Rutherford, South Napa Valley and Oak Knoll. Phelps is best known for Insignia, its flagship Napa Valley blend of red Bordeaux varieties first produced in 1974. Awarded Wine Spectator’s “Wine of the Year” in 2005, Insignia is widely regarded as a qualitative benchmark for California winemaking. Besides Cabernet Sauvignon and small amounts of Petit Verdot, Merlot and Malbec, Phelps also grows Chardonnay, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Scheurebe. The estate produces 50,000 cases annually from Napa Valley and an additional 15,000 cases from the Sonoma Coast.”

Joseph Phelps Larry Hyde & Sons Vineyard Syrah 2012 

This is a blend of 94% Syrah and 6% estate co-fermented Viognier, the 2012 Syrah was aged 18 months in 41% new and 59% neutral French oak. A total of  900 cases were produced. 

This was rated 90-93 points by Robert Parker, 90-92 points by Antonio Galloni (Vinous), and 91 points by Wine Spectator

Winemaker Notes - “The 2012 Syrah is filled with aromatic ripe raspberry, fresh thyme, dried sage, cigar box and subtle hints of violet. Black cherry, dark plum and pepper spice flavors mingle together in harmony for a long, lingering velvety finish.”

Antonio Galloni (Vinous) notes “There is plenty of potential in this plush, full-bodied Syrah. As always, the straight Syrah is a bit chunkier than the Hyde bottling, but that is more of an observation than a critique.” This indicates there is a straight Syrah bottling out there somewhere, versus this blend which we acquired in the after-market (auction).

This was dark opaque purple colored, full bodied,  dense, concentrated but subdued and smooth blackberry and black currant fruit with notes of black tea, spice, licorice, smoke, pepper, leather and roasted meats, hints of camphor. The subtlety of this might indicate that at a dozen years, this is past its prime and the fruits have started to diminish a bit giving way to non-fruit flavors. We won’t know having never tasted this release earlier in its aging life. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1905659

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/1905659

https://www.josephphelps.com/

Piedlong CDP Red Blend with BBQ Ribs

Brunier Family “Piedlong” CDP Red Blend with BBQ Ribs

With the left over BBQ ribs from the other night, as noted at the time, the best ribs I’ve had in a long time, I opened a CDP (Châteauneuf-du-Pape) from Familie Brunier. We had these ribs the other night and they were spectacular, and enjoyable a couple days later to dust up the leftovers! 

I pulled this wine to take to son Alec’s last night but we arrived to find he had already opened a Big Red for pairing with our Pizza. So it was to open this for Sunday dinner with the remaining BBQ Ribs. 

This is from one of favorite Rhône producers that we visited at the Vieux Télégraphe estate during our CDP appellation tour back in 1998, and then again during our 2019 visit with Alec & Viviana with owner/producer Daniel Brunier at the Estate, which was a highlight of our visit to the Luberon and Southern Rhône that year.

Also notable, pertaining to Alec and Viv, we discovered this label during a visit to New York City to visit  when they were still living there. We discovered and enjoyed this label at Il Fiore Restaurant and Bar at the Langham Hotel in NYC back in 2018. 

Vignobles Brunier Chateauneuf-du-Pape Piedlong 2017

As I’ve written in these pages, Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe has been in the Brunier family since 1898,  it lies on the eastern edge of Châteauneuf du Pape and covers 150 acres of some of the finest terroir there on the famed “la Crau” plateau.

Famille Brunier embodies the group of holdings by the Brunier family, notably Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, Domaine La Roquète, Domaine Les Pallières (along with Kermit), and other vineyards for wines under the Brunier label. 

Henri Brunier founded the estate back in 1891. Four generations later, at the very beginning of the 80s, Frédéric and Daniel Brunier took over the destiny of the family business in tandem to farm the land in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The brothers solidify the legacy left by their father, Henri, and their great-grandfather, Hippolyte. 

In 2015 and 2016, Nicolas son of Frédéric and Edouard, son of Daniel, entered the history of the Old Telegraph, fully integrating the company in key positions. Manon, daughter of Frédéric, joined them in 2018 now extending to the sixth generation stewardship of the family business. 

The Bruniers’ vineyards in the La Crau cru of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, most notably the flagship Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, are the most pedigreed of the appellation, producing wines of exceptional quality and longevity. Since purchasing Domaine La Roquète in 1986, the family has complemented their portfolio with additional wines, offering more affordable cuvées that showcase the diversity of terroirs within their holdings. The “Pigeoulet” and “Mégaphone” are fresh, rich in fruit, pleasantly representative of their terroir, and easy to appreciate young. 

This red Châteauneuf “Piedlong”, is sourced from the famed Piélong lieu-dit with some fruit from the Pignan vineyard as well, is a deeply mineral wine that balances elegance and purity with the muscle that is commonly found in wines from this great appellation.

The estate gets its name from the history of this site. Back in the 1800's , Claude Chappe, inventor of the optical telegraph, built a signal tower on the property due to its high elevation in the region, hence the property was given the name “Vieux Télégraphe”. 

When we met with owner/producer Daniel Brunier at the Estate, during our 2019 visit with Alec & Viviana, he asked, “what do you want to know about Vieux Telegraph?” I said, “we want to meet you, see the estate, and learn the essence of your wines and how they manifest the terroir of the estate”. He emphasized the care they use in gravity feeding the grapes with minimal intervention, how they have destemmed all their grapes since 1989 and how the wines see all native ferments, with no temperature control, and aging all in older foudre. The gravity feeding was a result of the recent completion of a new state of the art winery. 

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe "Piedlong" Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rhône Valley 2017 

This Piedlong label that was first released in 2011, it is a blend of 90% Genache Noir and 10% Mourvèdre. Comprised of but two varietals of the thirteen that are allowed in the AOC sanctioned blend, its a simpler less complex wine than the flagship label which under appellation rules can contain up to thirteen different varietals. 

The 90% Grenache for the Piedlong section and 10% Mourvedre from the Pignan section, are both old-vine parcels. 

The predominant Grenache grapes are sourced from 70 year old vines on the Vieux Telegraph 27 acre site on the stony Piedlong Plateau which is in the heart of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC area. 

Piedlong is north of the village at the highest point of the appellation. The Mourvèdre fruit is sourced from 50 year old vines on the 22 acre Pignan lieu-dit, east of Piedlong.

This release was awarded 94 points by Jeb Dunnuck and Wine Spectator, 93-94 by Vinous, 92-94 by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, 93 by James Suckling and 92 by DC

Whether a Grenache blend from Châteauneuf–du-Pape, a Bandol Mourvédre or a rosé from Pic Saint-Loup, classic wines from the Southern Rhône, Provence or Languedoc are often described as having notes of garrigue. 

In wine, the term garrigue suggests distinctly herbaceous, peppery or smoky tones reminiscent of the low-lying vegetation that grows wild in sun-scorched limestone soils along the Mediterranean, particularly the South of France.

Rather than a single plant or scent, garrigue refers to a variety of aromatic, resinous herbs like rosemary, sage, bay leaves and thyme. It also includes shrubs like juniper and artemisia as well as lavender and mint. 

The 2017 Châteauneuf Du Pape Piedlong  was an ideal pairing with the tangy BBQ. I note often in these pages the importance of an effective pairing between food and wine, and how it amplifies the enjoyment of both. 

This was  dark ruby colored, medium to full-bodied, round, layered with core of ripe raspberry, red currant, cherry and plum fruits accented by herbes de Provence, roses, dried spices, licorice, with that signature garrigue and with minerality on the long smooth polished finish. 

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3187675  

https://www.vieux-telegraphe.fr/en/