Vino Viaggio Wine Dinner at Vivere’ Italian Village Chicago

“Vino Viaggio” An Italian Wine Dinner at Vivere’ Italian Village Chicago 

Italian Village Restaurant (s) in Chicago hosted another in their Curated Wine Dinner Series. Organized and hosted by Beverage (and Wine) director, Jared Gelband, these events showcase a flight of wines from a featured producer or region. Tonight’s dinner was held in the classic, iconic and historic Italian Village Vivere’ dining room.

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I’ve written often about Jared and Italian Village and their legendary Wine Cellar in these pages - Italian Village appoints Jared Gelband Wine Director. 

And, we’ve featured several of these earlier wine dinners in some notable posts as well, such as - Sassicaia Owner Dinner and Vivere Vertical Tasting, and Castello Banfi Producer Wine Dinner at Vivere Italian Village Chicago, and another - Italian Village Villa Calcinaia Producer Wine Dinner.

We’ve hosted many spectacular wine dinners at Italian Village over the years with family and my corporate management team and board - Merry Christmas - Frozen and gala family wine dinner, and Team Dinner at Italian Village Chicago.

And of course, tonight, as with most of these dinners, we attended with several wine buddies Dr Dan, and Linda, and Lyle and Terry, from our Pour Boys wine group, with whom we’ve held many Italian Village dinners together, such as this one featured in these pages - Italian Village Vivere Wine Dinner Features Masseto Cellar Selection.

Tonight, the distinguished guest and curator was importer distributor Alessandro Boga and the wines presented featured producers that Jared and Alessandro visited during an Italian wine region trip a couple years ago.  

Alessandro is Director of the Italian Portfolio at importer Wilson Daniels. As Portfolio Director he sets brand strategy, manages the supplier relationships (Italy) and the sell to/thru market development, merchandizing and evangelizing working with retailers and restaurants.

He has a WSET Level 3 Advanced, CSW (Certified Specialist of Wine), CSS (Certified Specialist of Spirits) and Vinitaly Academy Italian Wine Ambassador/EducatorSales

Wilson Daniels is a family-owned, fully integrated marketing and sales company representing a highly selective portfolio of the most prestigious wine properties from all corners of the globe. They focus on developing long-term strategic partnerships with family-owned and operated wineries that “possess profound respect for terroir”.

I’ve borrowed some of the background content about these producers and wines from the Wilson Daniel’s site - https://wilsondaniels.com/.

Tonight’s “ Vino Viaggio Curated Wine Dinner” featured five courses prepared by Italian Village Vivere’ Chef Tony Rodriguez. Each course was expertly paired with some of a total of seven Italian wines served.

I’ve written in these pages many times that an ideal pairing of a food course with the appropriate wine amplifies the enjoyment of both. Tonight’s pairings were sensational enhancing each course for wonderful sensory enjoyment.

The courses and their respective paired wines …

Antipasto

Poached Mussels / White Wine Gel / Lemon preserve /Parsley Oil / Capers / Squid Ink Tuile

Benanti Metodo Classico Carricante 2021

Insalate

Poached Pear / Gorgonzola dolce Mousse /White Balsamic Pearls / Walnut Praline Dust /Endive Curls / Pear Consomme / Micro Sorrel

Elena Walch Gwurtztraminer 2023

Elena Walch is a 5-generation family-run estate in Alto Adige, a region in the North-East part of Italy that led the wine quality revolution in the area and has gained a prominent international reputation. An architect by trade, Elena Walch married into one of the oldest and most significant wine families of the region and brought new, modern concepts to the traditional approach. 

Today, the responsibility for the family business is in the hands of Elena’s daughters, Julia and Karoline. With 220 acres in cultivation, including the two top vineyards Vigna Castel Ringberg in Caldaro and Vigna Kastelaz in Tramin, Elena Walch owns the most important “protagonists” of Alto Adige winemaking.

The vineyards represent the ideal terroir for the ‘home of Gewürztraminer’ with its loose soil, characterized by the high lime content, but also deep sand tracts and porphyritic rocks. Warm days with abundant sunshine, accompanied by cool mountain evening temperatures, produce characterful and elegant Gewürztraminer of classic typicity.

The wine with its typical dry Alto Adige charm and personality, gleams in intense straw yellow with hints of gold reflections. 

Classic Gewürztraminer notes are mirrored in the bouquet – intensively aromatic notes of rose petals, flowers and spices. The wine presents itself rich in finesse on the palate, with fresh fullness, harmonic elegance and a long finish. ​

This was one of the most vibrant and expressive Gewürztraminers I recall ever having and was one of the wine finds and memories of the evening. 

Pasta 

Braised Pork Cheek Agnolotti / Fennel Pollen / Roasted Garlic Emulsion / Fennel Stems / Sunchoke Chips/Fennel Frond Oil / Sicilian Black Olive Ash

Benanti Etna Rosso 2022

Benanti Etna Rosso “Contrada Calderara Sottana “ 2021

The 50 year-old vines hail from the Contranda Calderara Sottana vineyard located in the village of Randazzo on the northern slope of Sicily’s Mount Etna, grown in volcanic sands, rich in minerals, with good organic matter content.

This wine is made from 100% Nerello Mascalese, a renowned indigenous grape variety of Sicily. The fruit comes from 50-year-old vines grown in the Contrada Calderara Sottana vineyard, situated in the picturesque village of Randazzo on the northern slope of Mount Etna. 

The unique volcanic terroir of this region, with its rich, mineral soils and altitude, imparts a distinctive character to the grapes. The old vines, carefully tended, produce low yields of exceptional quality, resulting in a wine that captures the essence of Mount Etna’s rugged landscape and complex, layered flavors.

Winemaker notes - Bright ruby red color with spicy aromatics and scents of ripe red fruit. Full-bodied, balanced tannins with structure to age gracefully over the next 10 to 13 years.

This was rated 94 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate.

"This is a relatively new addition to the Benanti portfolio. The 2022 Etna Rosso Contrada Calderara Sottana shows dried fruit and blackcurrant with pressed rose and crushed volcanic rock. Fruit comes from one hectare on the north side of Etna at 685 meters in elevation with a good amount of organic matter in the soils. There is a hint of strawberry-like ripeness on the close, but otherwise, the wine remains impressively tight, polished and streamlined in texture."

Carne 

Osso Buco / Polenta Custard / Charred Cipollini /Porcini Dust / Veal Reduction Gel / Sage / Garlic Pearls

Arnaldo Caprai Montefalco Sagrantino 2020

This family-owned winery began in 1971 when textiles entrepreneur Arnaldo Caprai purchased 12.5 acres in Montefalco. In 1988, he passed ownership and management on to his son, Marco, who began the project to cultivate the promotion of the grape that has been growing in the Montefalco region for more than 400 years: Sagrantino.  

Arnaldo Caprai Sagrantino Collepiano is a bold expression of Montefalco’s rich winemaking heritage and the distinctive Sagrantino grape, which is found only in this region. 

Collepiano is Sagrantino’s area of production at Caprai. The name means “gentle slopes”, that characterize the hills that are now home to 25 to 30 year old vines. 

The area possesses the ideal terroir for this varietal, all the elements of place most suited to produce this wine - perfect southern sun exposure and well-draining limestone and clay soils, that allow the Sagrantino grape to thrive. The vineyards benefit from the region’s unique microclimate, where warm days and cool nights help preserve the grape’s natural acidity while promoting the development of rich, concentrated flavors.

This wine represents the renaissance of Montefalco as a premier wine region, showcasing Sagrantino’s deep, robust character with flavors of dark fruit, spices, and a touch of earthy minerality. 

This is a style we love and embrace and this was clearly my WOTN - Wine of the Night. 

This Collepiano is a testament to Caprai’s commitment to crafting wines that highlight the distinctive qualities of this exceptional grape and its home.

Reviewer notes (Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate) - Sagrantino Collepiano is a deeply complex and expressive wine. It opens with rich aromas of ripe dark fruit, including Blackberry jam, pepper, clove, and vanilla complemented by subtle notes of spices, tobacco, and a hint of earthy minerality. On the palate, it is full-bodied with a velvety texture, balanced acidity, and well-structured tannins. Powerful yet elegant; bold tannins hint at the ability for long aging.

Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico Tuscany Riserva DOCG 2020

This iconic wine is from Castello di Volpaia, made exclusively from Sangiovese grapes. Representing the rebirth of Chianti Classico as a fine wine region, it was the first ever Chianti to be recognized in  the top 3 of “Wine Spectator Top 100 Wines of the Year” with the 2015 vintage.

This is 100% Sangiovese sourced from several vineyards -Casavecchia, Casetto, Castellino, Campo a Prato, Pratolino, Santa
Caterina, Santa Maria Novella and Vignavecchia. 

They all have light soil consisting of sandstone except Castellino  and Santa Maria Novella, which are composed of clay on slopes. Sitting at around 2000 feet, they are from one of the highest-elevation wineries in the Chianti region. All have a sunny southern, southeast, southwest exposure. They were planted planted between 1970-2002. 

This was aged  24 months in a combination of Slovenian and French oak casks, then a minimum of 3 months in bottle.

Producer’s Tasting Notes - “A pure expression of the best Sangiovese in the Volpaia estates, the Chianti Classico Riserva has a ruby-red hue with a trace of garnet. The nose is elegant, displaying hints of spice and fruit.”

Dolce - Fig and Honey Semifreddo / Fig Gel / Labneh Almond Dust / Cocoa Tuille

Arnaldo Caprai Umbria Montefalco Sagrantino Passito DOCG 

Another Arnolda Caprai wine from the distinctive Sagrantino grape, they have become the leading producer of top quality Sagrantino di Montefalco, wine produced exclusively from this native variety from the Umbria wine region.

This traditional version of Montefalco Sagrantino derives its name from the Latin “sacer”: a holy wine destined for consumption during the Christian celebrations.

This sweet wine was made from semi-dried Sagrantino grapes from 25 to 30 year old vines grown in limestone and clay soils.with a sun drenched southern exposure. It was aged 15 months in French oak and minimum 12 months aging in bottle.

Producer Tasting Notes - “The sweetness arrives first to the nose with scents of blackberry and strawberry jam, revealing vanilla and cinnamon. Warm and sweet, soft and intense. The tannins work to balance the sugars and leave the palate cleansed, ready for another taste.

Like the earlier pairings, this enhanced the dessert course wonderfully. 

Another spectacular food and wine evening in an iconic historic setting. Watch for their upcoming wine events on their website - https://www.italianvillage-chicago.com/.

BYOB at Tuscany Bistro Sandestin Miramar Beach

BYOB at Tuscany Italian Bistro Sandestin Miramar Beach 

During a week to The Destiny East Cove, our Destin, FL vacation rental, we dined with friends/neighbors Richard and Vickie at their regular go-to dining spot, Tuscany Italian Bistro in the Sandestin. We took BYOB from our home cellar an ultra-premium Tuscan wine for the occasion.

I had the daily special, Osso Bucco with Papardelle pasta which was delicious and an ideal pairing with the big red Tuscan wine. 

The other highlights of the evening were the lamb chops and the lasagna. 

Vicki had her go-to favorite dish, and Chef/Proprietor Guglielmo's Favorite too! - LAMB ALLA TOSCANA New Zealand lamb chops, rosemary, garlic demi-glace, vegetable of the day …

The LASAGNA AL FORNO is a house specialty - Bolognese, ricotta, parmesan, and mozzarella cheese …

I first wine was this classic big red blend I brought BYOB from our home cellar. 

Rivetti Pin La Spinetta Castagnole Monferrato 2005

This is the last of a half case I acquired of this label nearly two decades ago. I wrote about this wine at ten years in this blogpost, Rivetti Pin La Spinetta Castagnole Monferrato with Spaghetti, excerpted below, and previously - Rivetti Pin La Spinetta Castagnole Monferrato 2005.

Tonight, at twenty years this was drinking well, showing no signs whatsoever of diminution from aging. The foil, label, and most importantly, the fill level and cork were still in ideal condition,  If I had more, it would continue to age gracefully and drink well for a half decade or more. 

This classic Italian red blend is from La Spinetta,  who produce a broad portfolio of premium Piedmont and Tuscan wines from traditional varietals in a new world style and flair.

This 'Pin' label is named after the nickname of Giuseppe Rivetti, the patriarch of the family and father of the current producer Giorgio, of the estate La Spinetta, which means 'top of the hill', in Castagnole Lanze in the northern Italian region of Tuscany. 

The family first purchased 70 hectares of Moscato and Barbera d'Asti vineyards in 1977 and have continued to expand operations through expansion and development since.

Today, Giuseppe's children — Carlo, Bruno, Giorgio and Giovanna have since taken over the family business, with Giorgio leading, assisted by elder sister Giovanna who is in charge of vineyard production.

Rivetti produced their first red Barbera Cà di Pian in 1985. The first release of Pin occurred in 1989, a blend of 50 percent Nebbiolo, 25 percent Barbera and 25 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. which was revolutionary at that time.

In 1985 they produced their first Barbaresco followed by Gallina in 1995 and their first Barolo Campè in 2000. In 2001, La Spinetta acquired 65 additional hectares of vineyards in Tuscany where today they produce three different 100% Sangiovese wines. 

The Rivetti brand has grown internationally and today is well known, identified by their distinctive labels featuring a burly rhinoceros, which the Rivetti siblings say signifies quality.

Origins of the unique wildlife logo illustration come from an ancient woodcut by historic German artist, Albrecht Dürer, who prepared his drawings and woodcut from descriptions and sketches of a rhinoceros gifted to the king of Portugal from India. It was the first animal of its kind in Europe. 

The Rivettis lament that they fell in love with this ancient wood cut print and the legend behind it. Giorgio Rivetti expressed his great admiration of the celebrated drawing and woodcut. but has downplayed the connection between this animal and the brand.

 

Also depicted on the bottles of La Spinetta’s first Barolo Campè vintage, is a pencil drawing of a lion by Dürer, since Barolo is commonly known as the king of Italian reds. The legend continues. 

Pin Castagnole, Neive, Barbaresco Monferrato Rosso DOC 2005

This is a blend of 65% Nebbiolo, and 35% Barbera d’Asti Superiore Bionzo. Barbera and Nebbiolo are the two marquee red wine grapes of northwest Italy. They are often blended together in Piedmont to create modern style wines for the international palate. 

Nebbiolo, the powerful majestic grape of Barolo and Barbaresco, is blended with Barbera to be more approachable and smoother and balanced, and drinkable at an earlier age. Barbera adds cherry flavors to Nebbiolo’s distinctive strawberry, and the high acidity of both ensure the wine is fresh and rarely flabby.

When we tasted this back in 2016, I wrote, "As good as this was with the pasta and peas with vodka cream sauce, it was even better the following evening with char-grilled Pittsburgh style strip steak, asparagus and baked potato."

In our previous tasting of this label, at eighteen years, the fill level, label, cork and foil were in ideal condition. At this age, this may be at its peak, the apex of its drinking window, but it certainly has another decade of life yet, but I can't imagine it will improve further from aging.

Fortunately we bought a half dozen bottles when we acquired this back in 2010. That initial review, I rated it much lower and said "Dark purple color - Dense full bodied - ripe black fruits, with a slight edge and layer of cassis and subtle tar with a firm tannin finish. Might soften and settle with time." It certainly did benefit from another six years of aging in the bottle.

Tonight's tasting was totally consistent with that last review in 2016. I'll look forward to trying the last bottle, perhaps five years from now, or beyond. I wish I had more!

This was dark blackish garnet colored, medium to full bodied, and was remarkably smooth, well balanced and polished. Bouquet and flavors are full forward complex black raspberry, black berry fruits punctuated by tones of oak, cedar, hints of earthy cassis and tar turning to silky smooth polished tannins with an elegant persistent finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=395355

http://www.la-spinetta.com/

@LaSpinettaItaly

The La Spinetta Library … 



https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2016/11/rivetti-pin-la-spinetta-castagnole.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=395355

For a second wine pairing with dinner, Richard ordered from the wine list this hearty Barolo. 

Damilano Lecinguerigne Barolo 2018

Damilano wine company is one of the oldest wineries in Barolo dating back to 1890. 
The family business was started by Giuseppe Borgogno who cultivated and produced his own wine from the estate vineyards rising to one of the more prestigious labels in the Langhe area.  

Guiseppe Borgogno was the great-grandfather of the current owners. The tradition was kept up by Giacomo Damilano, the founder’s son-in-law, together with his children. 

In 1997 Giuseppe passed the winery on to his grandchildren Paolo, Mario and Guido who build on his legacy of their forefathers’ land producing the highest quality Damilano wines.

Driving on the Alba-Barolo county road, towards Alba, the winery is located at about 1.5 km from Barolo about on par with La Morra. The estate underwent a major renovation and is now features contemporary and functional architecture.

The vineyards, partly owned and partly leased, are situated in the most famous crus of the Langa region: Cannubi, Liste, Fossati, and Brunate, which are almost entirely cultivated with Nebbiolo da Barolo, and to a lesser extent, with Dolcetto and Barbera varietals.

Damilano "Lecinquevigne" Barolo 2018 

“Lecinquevigne" is a blend of 100% Nebbiolo, sourced from grapes from five premier vineyard sites in the Piedmontese municipalities of Brunate, Liste, Cerequio, Cannubi and Raviole. The south-east exposure facing vineyards represent the most suitable areas for the production of Nebbiolo. Crafting wine sourced from multiple vineyards allows for the incorporation of the terroir’ distinctive qualities of the calcareous-clay soil, climate and exposure to be incorporated into the wine. 

Winemaker Notes - Ruby red in color with orange reflections. An intense bouquet, with tertiary notes of rose, leather, tobacco and emerging notes of violet and tar. The palate is ample and embracing, with prevailing impressions of a soft, persistent long finish.

This release was rated  92 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, Wine & Spirits and James Suckling, and 91 by Wine Spectator. 

Bright ruby colored, medium bodied, smooth, approachable dark cherry and black berry fruits with accents of rose, cedar, smoke and spice with tight, fine tannins and a focused finish. 

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?4376521

https://cantinedamilano.it/

https://tuscanybistrodestin.com/

Marchesi di Gresy Martinenga Barbaresco

Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grassy Martinenga  Barbaresco Nebbiolo 2019 

Visiting our Destin, FL vacation rental, we had carry out pizza and pulled from the remote vacation home cooler this hearty premium Barbaresco (Nebbiolo). 

As is the case with a DOCG Barbaresco, this is 100% Nebbiolo. This is a single vineyard designated bottling named for the 30 acre Martinenga estate vineyard in the commune of in the Piedmont region that has been owned by Marchesi di Grésy since 1797.

Proprietor Alberto di Gresy spent his childhood on the estate and learned the intricacies of the site, its  soil and their products. Alberto began producing the wines of Tenuta Cisa Asinari of Gresy in 1973. Today the winemaker is Matteo Sasso.

The Cisa Asinari estates of the Marchesi di Grésy are part of Piedmontese winemaking history as their roots date back to the end of the 18th century, but it was Alberto di Grésy, in 1973, who founded the Marchesi di Grésy winery, as we know it today. 

He was a bit of a pioneer when he set out to produce quality wine on his own, from the grapes of Tenuta Cisa Asinari. At the time, all the grapes produced in the region were sold to cooperative wineries or larger wineries. 

Overall, the Marquises of Gresy estates actually consist of four distinct farms, the main one being the premiere vineyard of Martinenga. The others are those of Monte Aribaldo in Treiso, La Serra in Cassine, and Monte Colombo, also adjacent to La Serra. The total vineyard area across the various estates in the Langhe and Monferrato covers slightly more than 110 acres. 

They are planted to a range of varietals from whites of "international" grapes such as Chardonnay and Sauvignon, to the great classics of the Piedmont of Dolcetto and Barbera, and predominantly the prestigious and excellent Barbaresco, expressed in 3 different Crus. The vines average 35 - 40 years of age. 

The Martinenga. vineyard covers 30 acres in the shape of an amphitheatre, with Asili to the west and Rabaja to the north-east. Facing south-southwest, the vineyards have a favourable microclimate enabling the production of high quality grapes even in potentially difficult vintages. The vineyards are situated at 280 metres above sea level, and the soil is calcereous, with blue marl and a small percentage of sand.

Annual production is 15,000 - 20,000 bottles per year. For this release, 1,625 cases were made, 550 cases imported. 

Winemaker notes - The Marchesi di Gresy “Martinenga” Barbaresco  2019 has a fine, gently floral nose with wild cherry and redcurrant fruit. Spicy and lifted with notes of dried herbs. More sour cherry fruit on the palate, which combines richness and structure with dried fruit characters. Fresh acidity gives balance, and the finish is complex, savoury and textured with integrated oak.”

“Hand-harvested in early October. Ideal yield is no more than 6 tons per hectare. Vinification on skins - 8-10 days fermentation with floating cap followed by 20-30 days maceration with submerged cap, and daily pumping over. Malolactic fermentation is carried out at controlled temperature following alcoholic fermentation. The wine is aged in 225 litre French oak barriqes for 12 months and then 50 hl Slavonian oak casks for a further 12 months. Further ageing in bottle before release.”

Red cherries, dried roses, stewed fruits, orange citrus and lovely tannins. A great vintage, showing all of the top qualities of Barbaresco with both intensity and a softness that embraces the entire palate. An instant classic.

Nebbiolo is the primary grape of wines from two Italian wine regions, Barbaresco and Barolo. Nebbiolo ripens earlier in Barbaresco than in Barolo, primarily due to the vineyards’ proximity to the Tanaro River and lower elevations. While the wines there are still powerful, Barbaresco expresses a more feminine side of Nebbiolo, often with softer tannins, delicate fruit and an elegant perfume.

Nebbiolo, named for the ubiquitous autumnal fog (called nebbia in Italian), and is the primary varietal grape of northern Italy’s Piedmont region. Grown throughout the area, as well as in the neighboring Valle d’Aosta and Valtellina, it reaches its highest potential in the Piedmontese villages of Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero. 

This wine was rated 93 points by both James Suckling and Wine Spectator, Jeb Dunnuck 92 Points, and Vinous and Kerin O'Keefe 90 points. 

Dark opaque ruby colored, medium bodied, structured but smooth, polished, sleek red cherry and berry fruits with notes of floral, clove and cinnamon spice, black tea and hints of smoke and creosote turning to soft moderate tannins on the finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4410550

Birthday Lunch at Ella’s Western Springs

Birthday Lunch at Ella’s Western Springs

We met with several of the kids and grandkids for a birthday lunch celebrating Linda’s and granddaughter Marilyn’s birthdays. We met at Ella’s Italian Eatery in Western Springs, the renovated make-over of the previous Vie fine dining restaurant. What a transformation! They completely gutted and built a whole new restaurant with wide open views from the kitchen view seating in the rear to the front - one large dining room in the rear and the large bar and adjacent seating in the front half. Remarkable and well done, a huge improvement over the chopped up segregated multiple dining rooms of the previous configuration. 

Ella’s is the latest addition to the family of “family-friendly dining” establishments, adding to their existing locations in nearby Elmhurst and in Geneva, IL. They promote an “experience starting with (our) handcrafted dough, accented by creative Italian pub-style street food offerings along with an extensive wine list”.

The menu is extensive, featuring pizzas and a broad selection of Italian cuisine. 

I ordered the Tagliatelle Bolognese, Italian Meat Ragu with Tomato Sauce and Parmiaganna Regiano with an addition of a veal meatball. It was delicious. 

From the wine list, I ordered a BTG - By The Glass selection of an Italian Piedmontese Langhe Nebbiolo to compare with recent tastings of the Massolino wines from this varietal and region, as featured in several recent posts in these pages - . 

 

Boroli “1661” Langhe Nebbiolo 2022

This 100% Nebbiolo varietal is from the Boroli family Piedmont estate that dates back to 1831. The family started their winemaking business in 1997 when Silvano and Elena Boroli felt stepped away from their publishing business to pursue their passion producing wine. They grew the company until their son, Achille, stepped in to run the wine-growing and production business in 2012. The estate consisted of 27 acres planted primarily to the native grape varietal Nebbiolo. Achille Boroli is joined by Enzo Alluvione in duties as winemaker.  Total winery production is 18,911 bottles. 

With the 2012 grape harvest Achille decided to radically change the methods used in vineyards and wineries, aiming for the highest quality in Barolo and its crus. He cut production levels, updated the winemaking technology, and focused on low intervention methods to raise the quality of the Boroli wines striving to be on par with the finest Barolo wines.

Winemaker notes - “The Nebbiolo 2022 is an ode to lively freshness. With its bright ruby color, this wine exudes elegance right from the start. The bouquet is fresh and fruity, with notes of ripe strawberry, spring flowers, and a subtle hint of cinnamon. On the palate, it presents a youthful and vibrant structure, with agile tannins and a freshness that enhances the red fruit, mint, and a subtle touch of green tea.”

The 2021 release of this label was awarded 94 points and an Editors Choice by Wine Enthusiast, 91 by Wine Spectator, and 90 by Wine Advocate. 

Bright ruby red color, medium bodied, bright vibrant red berry and currant fruits with earthy notes of spice and herbs with smooth velvety tannings on the lingering finish. 

RM 90 points. 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/4778608

https://www.ellasitalianpub.com/menus

Massolino wines with spaghetti

Massolino Piedmontese Barolo and Barbera wines with spaghetti 

Linda prepared spaghetti and I pulled from the cellar two bottles, just recently acquired Massolino red wines. We met the producer Franco Massolino week before last down in Florida at the special Massolino Wine Producer Dinner at Wine World Wine Bar, Destin (FL).

Having just been introduced to this brand, meeting the producer, and tasting a flight of his wines paired with the dinner courses, I was interested to see what wines are available back in Chicago.

I visited Binny’s, our wine and beverage big box superstore and picked up each of the Massolino labels available to try, and compare with the broad flight we tasted at the dinner. 

Massolino is one of Piedmont’s most respected and historic producers dating back to its founding in 1896. I wrote more about their history in my blogpost - Massolino Wine Dinner Destin.

Massolino’s vineyards, located in the prized areas of Serralunga d'Alba, benefit from the region’s calcareous soils and high altitude, which contribute to the wine’s distinctive minerality and longevity.

Massolino Barbara D’Alba Serralunga D’Alba 2021

This is an earlier vintage of the 2022 Massolino Barbera d'Alba that we tasted at the Destin wine dinner. 

Barbera d’Alba DOC is a popular wine produced in the area, in the historic village situated right in between the famous regions of Barolo and Barbaresco, Alba is also the name for the larger wine region surrounding the village.  It has been produced since its first year of production back in 1896. This Barbera is released onto the market in the spring following harvest.

Generally, “Alba” is a catch-all phrase, and includes the declassified Nebbiolo varietal grape based wines made in Barolo and Barbaresco, as well as the Nebbiolo grown just outside of these regions’ borders. 

Nebbiolo d’Alba is a softer, less tannic and more fruit-forward wine ready to drink within just a couple years of bottling. It is more approachable and affordable variation of Nebbiolo wines.

Friendly and approachable, Barbera produces wines in a wide range of styles, from youthful, fresh and fruity to serious, structured and age-worthy. Piedmont is the most famous source of Barbera; those from Asti and Alba being the most well known and most highly regarded. 

Barbera is planted alongside the predominant Nebbiolo in the surrounding hills, and referred to as Barbera d’Alba, takes on a more powerful and concentrated personality compared to its counterparts in Asti.

Barbera adapt well to many climates and has been successful in some New World regions.

Winemaker notes - “Appearance: deep purplish red. Bouquet: elegant, sweet and tempting, the intense and fruity notes characteristic of Barbera emerge. Flavour: vinous, fresh and well balanced. An easy to drink wine which is tasty and rich without being excessively binding.” 

This was a nice complement pairing to the spaghetti and tangy tomato and bolognese sauce. 

Slightly opaque garnet colored, medium bodied, black fruit flavors with notes of cedar, tar and black tea with a crisp tannic finish. 

RM 89 points. 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/4338733

We opened this the following evening with left over spaghetti. 

Massolino Barollo 2020

The Massolino Barolo 2020 is a classic expression of Nebbiolo, a wine that showcases the unique terroir of Serralunga while adhering to traditional winemaking techniques, such as fermentation in large oak barrels, to enhance the wine’s authenticity and sense of place. 

This Barolo is an outstanding representation of the 2020 vintage and a superb addition to any collection, offering a harmonious blend of finesse, structure, and aging potential. This is designated a Barolo DOCG Classico and is 100% Nebbiolo, blended from the various vineyards of the Massolino estate, crafted to be a ‘holistic expression of our hills’. Made from grapes grown in different vineyards, Barolo DOCG Classico Massolino “represents the synthesis of the different characteristics offered by each terroir”, resulting in a wine of greater depth and complexity.

This blend of grapes sourced from across the Massolino estate vineyards, as compared to a single designated specific vineyard label, which are produced as ultra-premium bottlings and ultra-premium price-points, such as the one served at our Destin Wine Dinner - 2020 Massolino Barolo from the Margheria Vineyard. 

It should be noted that this is a premium wine, as indicated by the DOCG designation, and is a price-point  twice that of the Barbera D’Alba. The producer notes - “Barolo DOCG classico occupies an outstanding role for our estate. With this wine, we wish to propose a bottle of the very highest level!” 

So, the progression of these wines in this post, range from $25, to $50, to $120 to $185. 

This is traditionally aged in large Slavonian oak barrels for up to 30 months before being left to mature in bottles placed in special dark, cool cellars, “to maintain a purer and more forthright identity. A broad and variable range of aromas, with a surprising expressive evolution over time.” 

Nebbiolo is more than a bit deceiving. It looks pale and light like a Pinot Noir, but it produces big bold, powerful full bodied, wines that also tend to be mercilessly tannic. 

This classic label was first produced by Massolino in 1947.

While the spaghetti was even better the following evening, it was nicely paired with this more complex and sophisticated red wine. 

The 2020 vintage is a beautiful example of the house style, combining elegance, power, and structure. This Barolo opens with aromas of red cherries, wild berries, and rose petals, accompanied by notes of tobacco, spices, and subtle earthy undertones. 

The wine is classic Barolo and its distinctive style and profile - full-bodied on the palate, with firm tannins, vibrant acidity, and a long, persistent finish. The balance of fruit and structure makes this Barolo approachable in its youth, but it also has the depth and complexity to age gracefully for many years. 

Winemaker notes - “Appearance: garnet red colour with variable intensity depending on the vintage. Bouquet: the grapes come from different vineyards and this gives them a broad and variable spectrum of perfumes, ranging from tempting spicy notes to those of a sweeter, floral and fruity nature. Flavour: a variety of sensations, with a full-bodied, classic and well structured wine which ages well and perfectly represents the important character of our land.”

The 2020 vintage was rated 94 points by James Suckling, 93 points by Kerin O'Keefe and Wine Enthusiast, and 92 points by Jeb Dunnuck.

Medium ruby colored, medium bodied, complex but nicely balanced and smooth, expressive bright vibrant ripe mixed berry fruits with notes of savory herbs, cedar, black tea, hints of clove spice, anise, tar with mineral, soft velvety tannins, on the moderate finish.

RM 92 points.  

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/4939851

Massolino Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda Nebbiolo 2015

I acquired this ultra-premium aged vintage label from Binny’s wine cellar which we’ll hold for a special occasion, suitable for opening such a wine. 

The CellarTracker posted drinking window for this wine is 2025 through 2044, hence its just now entering its prime drinking window, having benefited from a decade of aging, and it is projected to last for another two decades at its peak. 

Wines such as this are made for long term cellaring and aging, holding for a perfect opportunity and occasion for enjoying, and pairing with optimal food. 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/3273868

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3273868

https://www.massolino.it/en/

Fontanafredda Barolo with Meatloaf at Entourage DG

Fontanafredda Barolo with Meatloaf at Entourage Downers Grove 

I was invited to a celebratory lunch with Linda and her sorority sister Pat. They were planning to go to Gia Mia in downtown Downers Grove. I suggested an ‘upgrade’ to Entourage just across the street and railroad tracks. 

We’ve featured both restaurants in these pages, most notably our Pour Boys Wine Group dinner at Entourage last fall. This is the same restaurant group that has a sister restaurant in Naperville, also featured in these pages in  Plumpjack Reserve Napa Chardonnay at Entourage Restaurant Naperville.

At our earlier dinner in Downers Grove, I saw and was drawn to their signature Waygu Meatloaf dish, and pledged to try it on my next visit. 

This signature entree was amazing! So good we ordered a second one for carry out to take home. 

Wagyu Meatloaf Sundae - Truffle + Parmesan Whipped Potatoes, Brioche, Wild Mushroom Gravy,  Vegetable Succotash topped with Crispy Onions.

This was delicious and huge in portions - enough for a follow on take home meal. Two huge slices of meatloaf, and not enough of the delectable pomme puree’! But where would you put it in that tower, or what they call a ‘Sundae’!

Linda had the Spicy Shrimp & Jalapeno Grits - Blackened Wild Shrimp, Andouille Sausage, Charred Jalapeno, Charred Corn, Baby Peppers and Creole Cream.

This was equally delicious, but too spicy for my tastes, okay for hers, although she set aside the Jalapeno’s. Nice portion size for a ‘small plate’.

Pat had the Jumbo Lump Maryland Crab Cake - Corn Relish, Smoked Pepper Butter Sauce, Basil Oil and Micro Greens.

Pat loved the Crab Cake but would’ve been better with a larger portion for an entree. 

For a wine accompaniment I selected from the carefully crafted wine list a moderate Italian Red. 

Fontanafredda Serralunga d’Alba Barolo 2019

I chose this, partly to compare with the Massolino Serralunga d’Alba Barolo we tasted at the producer winemakers dinner we attended at the Wine Bar in Destin, FL just last week. Also, I thought the Nebbiolo would go well with my meatloaf entree. 

Also, Fontanafredda is a producer we know reasonably well from numerous previous wine tastings, several of which are chronicled in these previous posts:

Italian Village Wine and Dine features Barolo trio

Theos steak dinner Lazzarito Barolo Moulin-Tacussel CDP BYOB

Eataly NYC Wine and Cheese Dining

OTBN 2020 ~ Open That Bottle Night

Bordeaux Anchors OTBN 2015

Barolo means wine made primarily from the Nebbiolo grape, the principle varietal of the region. (As I’ve written often in these pages, wines from the ‘old world’ are named or labeled for their region. This is as opposed to wines in the ‘new world’ are named or labeled for the grape varietal in the bottle (typically 70% or more)). 

The Barolo wine regions consists of five townships: La Morra, Monforte d’Alba, Serralunga d’Alba, Castiglione Falletto and the Barolo village itself, as well as a few outlying villages. 

The native Nebbiolo grape produces wines, with the signature “tar and roses” aromas, a light garnet color and full flavorful palate with prominent tannins and acidity. A well-made Barolo wine, will be complex with notes of strawberry, cherry, plum, leather, truffle, anise, fresh and dried herbs, tobacco and violets.

The Fontanafredda Estate & Winery, dates back to 1878. Located in the heart of Piedmont’s Langhe region, they produce benchmark Barolo and Barbera wines, showing that balance deep aromas and concentration of fruit with elegance.

Fontanafredda has a noble history, purchased by modern Italy’s first king, Vittorio Emanuele II in 1858 after the unification of the country. The estate produced wine from Piedmont’s Langhe region native varietals, Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo. 

The King’s son, Count Mirafiori Fontanafredda later developed a commercial business and released their first Nebbiolo labeled as Barolo with the 1878 vintage.

The 250 acre Fontanafredda Barolo cru property is located in the subregion of Serralunga d’Alba, and is the largest contiguous wine estate in the Langhe. The estate also owns additional properties in the communes of Barolo and Diano d’Alba bringing the total acreage of estate-owned land to 305. 

There are two main soil types in Barolo, Tortonian in the western region that is heavy in clay and magnesium deposits and produces wines that tend to be more fragrant, elegant and soft. In eastern Barolo, the soils are chalky limestone and mineral rich that produce wines of deeper color, body and tannic structure, making for long-lived wines.

Fontanafredda owners Oscar Farinetti and business partner Luca Baffigo Filangieri are also founders of the famous EATALY concept restaurants and stores in Italy, Japan, New York and Chicago. We have visited and featured Eataly New York and Eataly Chicago in these pages in several posts including - 

Eataly New York Wine Dine Options

Eataly Il Pesce for Great Seafood sans Fanfare

Eataly NYC Flounder Seafood Dinner

Eataly NYC Wine and Cheese Dining

Lunch at Eataly during Gala Wedding Weekend Chicago

We love these wondrous creative locations where they promote “ The world's largest Italian marketplace where you can eat, shop, and learn”,  and consider them destinations worth visiting, an adventure in dining, shopping, or just for an adventurous travel experience! 

Since 1999, the Fontanafredda wine estate production has been managed by winemaker Danilo Drocco and viticulturist Alberto Grasso.

As I poured a glass of this wine, it was dark garnet colored, but largely opaque, moderate structured and light medium bodied. Linda immediately noticed and expressed concern in this selection. In the end, it proved to be ideal - big enough for the meatloaf, and moderate enough to complement the Crab Cake, and in-between so as to go with the spicy shrimp. 

Upon serving, this was at room temperature. We requested a wine chiller which they promptly provided, and after some cooling, was much better, more suited to the meal, and being more approachable, better revealing its aromas and flavors. 

My initial expectation was seeking the wine as I later found to be described in the Winemaker Notes -“Serralunga Barolo is characterized by great structure and power. Dry and tannic, but with velvety texture and great balance. It has notes of vanilla, spices, withered roses and underbrush. balance. The finish is very long-lasting.” 

It turned out to be in line with as described in Wine Spectator’s description -

“This red rides a fine balance between elegance and austerity, with cherry, strawberry, rose and hay aromas and flavors fused to a spine of stiff tannins; nevertheless, this is long and engaging.”

This was rated  93 points by Wine Spectator, 91 by Wine Enthusiast and James Suckling. 

7,400 cases produced, of which 5,100 cases imported - so this should be available if one seeks it out.

Dark garnet rather opaque colored, medium bodied but rather tightly structured with refined moderate tannins, yet smooth and balanced thereby approachable, black cherry and tangy red fruits with notes of black tea, and subtle notes of pepper, coriander, dried rose and crushed stone on a clean and crisp finish.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4626032

https://www.fontanafredda.it/

https://entouragerestaurant.com/downers-grove/

Pio Cesare Barolo Nebbiolo with Italian Pasta

Pio Cesare Barolo Nebbiolo with Italian Pasta 

Following our dinner outing at Angeli’s Italian Restaurant, we enjoyed our pasta leftovers and opened a middle aged Italian Barolo wine for an Italian varietal / cuisine pairing. 

Pio Cesare Barolo 2018

Five generations of the Pio family have followed one another in succession producing Pio Cesare’s wines for 135 years in its ancient cellars in the center of the town of Alba.

Founded in 1881 by Cesare Pio, a successful entrepreneur he was inspired to produce a small and select quantity of wines from the hills of Barolo and Barbaresco for himself, his family, friends, and customers.

In 1940, Giuseppe Pio’s only child, Rosy, married Giuseppe Boffa, a young and well-known engineer from Alba, who managed a large company in Milan at the time. When Italy began to struggle during the Second World War, Giuseppe Boffa left his job in Milan to dedicate himself to the Pio Cesare winery.

Through his efforts, the Pio Cesare brand gained fame and prominence both domestically and internationally, becoming one of the most respected names among Italian wine producers, with a special focus on its renowned Barolo.

Rosy and Giuseppe Boffa named their youngest son Pio, in honor of his great-grandfather’s surname. Pio Boffa, the fourth generation, leads and directs the company today. In the early 1990’s Pio Boffa asked his cousin Augusto to join him in the company. 

In 2000, Pio’s sister’s son, Cesare Benvenuto, became the fifth generation, joined recently by Pio Boffa’s daughter, Federica Rosy, in working at Pio Cesare, representing the future of the Family.

Today, family members travel around the world, to more than 50 countries promoting Pio Cesare wines.

Pio Cesare own 170 acres of vineyards on prime hillside exposures located in multiple different communes of the Barolo and Barbaresco appellations.

As is customary with Barolo wines, this is 100% Nebbiolo, estate grown sourced from family-owned vineyards in Serralunga d’Alba (Ornato, La Serra and Briccolina), Grinzane Cavour (Gustava and Garretti), La Morra (Roncaglie), Novello (Ravera) and, since the 2015 vintage, their recently acquired vineyard in Monforte (Mosconi). 

The new selection 'Pio' from Pio Cesare is a blend of the different MGAs of the estate. This is the classic “formula” used by the ancient Barolo Families to produce a wines that embraces and combines each of the unique characteristics of the different vineyards and terroirs of the Barolo area.

The wine is aged in large French oak “botti” for about 30 months; and a small amount in barriques as well.

Distributor notes - A classic style Barolo. Excellent structure, harmony and elegance. Soft tannins and balanced fruit. Approachable, but with a very long ageing potential. Barolo is a great wine, which should not be described as a “basic” or “regular” Barolo, simply because it does not have any additional indication on the label.

Winemaker Notes - “A classic style Barolo. Excellent structure, harmony and elegance. Soft tannins and balanced fruit. Approachable, but with a very long ageing potential. Barolo is a great wine, which should not be described as a “basic” or “regular” Barolo, simply because it does not have any additional indication on the label.”

This was rated 94 points by James Suckling, 93 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, and 91 points by Decanter and Wine Enthusiast. 

We found this a bit disappointing with the subdued fruit overtaken by non-fruit flavors, especially given its ultra-premium price. 

Dark garnet colored with a slight brownish/grey hue, medium bodied, spicy red cherry and plum fruits with notes of earthy tobacco and leather with hints creosote, truffle and camphor. 

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?4217182

https://www.piocesare.it/en/vini/barolo/

Italian wine duo for baked Lasagna dinner

Italian wine duo for baked Lasagna dinner

We were invited to neighbors Richard and Adessa’s for dinner of baked lasagna, salad and garlic bread. We took a cheese plate of artisan cheeses with fresh pear and from our cellar a duo of Italian wines, a white and a red.

I wrote recently about a red wine we acquired from the WSJ - Wall Street Journal wine club. This was the other wine included in that offer which I was eager to try. 

It’s always caveat emptor when sampling wines from one of these sources. Both of these labels exceeded our expectations offering wonderful wines at tremendous QPR - Quality Price Ratio value. 

With the cheese and fruit starter course we enjoyed a traditional Italian Piedmont Moscato - perfect for a hot summer evening. 

Albino Rocca Rosso di Rocca Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo 2021

This was a perfect pairing with the delicious baked lasagna - amplifying the enjoyment of both the food and the wine!

This is from the Albino Rocca Barbaresco vineyards and winery family owned and operated over four generations dating back to the 1940's, when Giacomo Rocca began bottling wine in demijohns. In the 1960's, his son, the proprietors’ grandfather, Albino, expanded the vineyard holdings, eventually operating by his son Angelo Rocca, father of the current generation.

The family has vines in some of the most prestigious Crus of Barbaresco: Ronchi, Ovello, Montersino and Cottà. Albino Rocco produce a dozen labels all sourced from their four estate vineyards located in the most noble areas of production of Barbaresco DOCG, which consist of Nebbiolo and also include Barbera, Dolcetto, Cortese, Chardonnay and Moscato.

They strive to produce the highest quality wines that express the characteristics, purity and elegance that are so recognizably linked with the terrior of their estate.

While their winemaking activities started in the 1940’s, they had previous experience in viticulture starting from the nineteenth century. The family’s vineyard area is almost 50 acres, located in three out of the four productive communes; Barbaresco, Neive, and San Rocco Seno d’Elvio (Alba) as well as various cultivated vines: primarily Nebbiolo, then Barbera, Dolcetto, Cortese, Moscato, and Chardonnay.

This label is sourced from a vineyard in Magliano Alfieri, a municipality on the left side of the river Tanaro, which gave birth to this new version of Nebbiolo, acquired by the family in 2016, with current production wines planted between 1967 and 2002. 

Nebbiolo is the native varietal synonymous with and originated in Piedmont in Italy, where it remains the region's most important red grape. Its name comes from the Italian word nebbia, which means fog, a feature of the hills where the grape traditionally grows. Nebbiolo is thick-skinned, early-budding and late-ripening; it needs long periods of sunshine to ripen fully and is often planted on south- or southwest-facing hillsides for maximum exposure. The best examples come from calcareous marl vineyards, with some planted in sandy soils.

The result was a highly fragrant red wine, with young fruit and flower aromas, fresh flavors that are ready to enjoy.

This is a blend of  Nebbiolo (97%) augmented with a slight bit of Cabernet Franc (3%) which adds some color, structure and flavors of spice. 

Average annual production is about 9000 bottles.

Bright ruby red colored, light-medium bodied, vibrant aromas and flavors of juicy ripe red berry, cherry and pomegranate fruits with floral and subtle earth tones, balanced by vibrant acidity and ultra-fine tannins, with a refreshing lingering finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4383037

https://www.albinorocca.com/