Papillon and Legende at Indigo Springfield

Papillon and Legende at Indigo Springfield

Visiting valued client in Springfield (IL), the account team dined at Indigo Restaurant. Following our tasting of Clio last month, I took another big bold expressive wine, BYOB, Orin Swift Papillon Bordeaux Blend which we matched up against Barons de Rothschild Légende from the wine list to accompany our beef steak dinners.

Indigo with their whimsical fun Blue Dog gallery offers a nice atmosphere for a business dinner, a special occasion or intimate dinner date. As always, the Indigo staff were professional, proficient, accommodating and attentive. The steaks were done to perfection and this evening they served an imaginative gorgonzola laced roasted potatoes accompaniment. The sushi entree left something to be desired and should be avoided in favor of their traditional midwestern faire.

Papillion is a Bordeaux Proprietary Blend from Dave Phinney, of Orin Swift Cellars, producer of a range of imaginative and bold wines that showcase the range and diversity of the best of Napa Valley wines.  Orin Swift perhaps is best known for The Prisoner series of wines which he sold a few years ago. He now focuses on and produces his higher end selections including this bold but polished red blend. 

David Swift Phinney began his wine journey back in 1995 when he traveled to Florence, Italy and discovered and got hooked on wine. After university graduation in 1997 he worked as as temporary harvest worker at Robert Mondavi Winery.  Setting out on his own, in 1998 he founded Orin Swift Cellars named for his father’s middle name Orin and his mother’s maiden name Swift. He spent his early years making wines for others and developing a line of Zinfandel based wines under his own label from fruit sourced from others. 

I've written about how Phinny is one of the more fascinating studies in wine branding. In his Orin Swift line, he shows why he is known for and recognized by his imaginative, creative, if not mysterious, even weird branding with his artistic naming and labeling of his wines. His line-up reads more like a series of mystery novels than a flight of fine wines - Abstract, China Doll, Mannequin, Machete, Mercury Head, Mute, Palermo, Papillon, Slander, Trigger Finger, and Veladora.

Mercury Head is his premium label Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and simply features a US mint original Mercury Head dime affixed to the bottle in place of a label. I've written in these pages about Machete with its series of labels with a dozen different photos of a mysterious woman brandishing a machete in various poses, many featuring a vintage Cadillac Eldorado.

Papillon features on the label (pictured) an image of third generation grape grower Vince Tofanelli's hands taken by the producer's friend and world famous photographer Greg Gorman. 

Papillon is a classic Bordeaux blend, Papillon features all the Bordeaux varietals - Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc, the heavy weight weighs in at 15.1% alcohol. The grapes are sourced from Napa Valleys sub-appellations Oakville, Rutherford, and Howell Mountain, from top vineyards such as Stagecoach and Morisoli.

Robert Parker gave the 2013 release 95 points and this 2014 wine 94 points and noted "forest floor, graphite, blackcurrant, blackberry fruit and spring flowers with a full-bodied, unctuously textured, deep, rich pure wine".

This was dark garnet colored, full bodied, complex, bold, powerful, concentrated, almost jammy with rich black fruits tones - blackberry, black raspberry, hint of black cherry, with a layer of anise, dusty cedar, hints of graphite, mocha and loamy earth with firm textured tannins on a long lingering finish. This probably needs a couple years to settle and will be interesting to watch it age over the next decade.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2292084

http://www.orinswift.com/Papillon


Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) St. Émilion Légende 2013

Légende is a second label from the legendary Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) producer. Of course they're best known for their classic 'first growth' Chateau Lafite Rothschild. But they also produce a wide range of more than a dozen labels for the wider general marketplace consumer - most from across the Bordeaux region.

The Legende family of wines includes more everyday selections from Bordeaux, one blend from the Bordeaux region, two from the left bank Medoc and Pauillac appellations, and this right bank offering from the St. Émilion appellation.

This 2013 may not be a fair representation of the label since it was one of the most difficult weather condition vintages in three decades. A wet spring, two hail storms in July and August that damaged the grape vines, followed by intermittent rains leading up to the harvest made the weather condition among the worst since the frost of 1991.

The challenging conditions of the 2013 season required meticulous work in the vineyards and very strict selection in the winery to produce this release which they considered an over-achievement under the circumstances rendering what they referred to as supple, with a gentle, crisp structure.

This was dark ruby colored, light-medium bodied, somewhat austere with delicate subdued black currant and raspberry fruits with a layer of pain grillé (toast), with hints of floral, tangy spice, smoke, tobacco leaf and leather.  In the style of the 'right bank', this is a blend of 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc.

RM 87 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2613407

http://www.lafite.com/en/the-collection/legende/the-wines/legende-saint-emilion/

 http://www.indigocuisine.com/

Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2014

Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2014 at Corkscrew wine shop in Springfield

In downstate Springfield, IL on business, colleague Eric W and I stopped in The Corkscrew wine shop for a casual wine tasting. Primarily a wine shop, they provide a nice selection of wines and a modest selection of cheeses, but also have a wine bar with casual seating for a small wine party or a simple tasting. For an impromptu tasting, we selected the latest release of Clio which was perfect accompaniment to some artisan cheeses - a spectrum of French Brie and Swiss to a bold Danish Blue.

Clio is a label from El Nido, a partnership between the Gil family and Chris Ringland, one of Australia's best known winemakers. The winery is in the Valley of the Aragona, 10 kilometers north of the town of Jumilla. Their vineyards are in the "top boundary", or the area of the highest altitude in the region. They produce Estate wines, (meaning they grow their own grapes) that are a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon from their 29 acres of vineyards, and the Monastrell varietal from 79 acres of very old vines in small plots. They produce very low yields that result in rich concentrated wines. They have two labels, Clio, a blend of Monastrell accented by Cabernet, and their ultra-premium flagship El Nido which is predominantly Cabernet, accented by Monastrell. They also have a few acres of Syrah that they produce under the label Corteo. Their first vintage release of the brands El Nido and Clio occurred in 2002. They've had a succession of highly rated and acclaimed releases ever since.

Jumilla is the town as well as a Denominación de Origen (DO), the Spanish official designation of an appellation or viticulture growing area, like the American AVA or the French AOC. The area is in the north of the city of Murcia and includes the municipality of its namesake Jumilla and the contiguous southeast of the Albacete province in the Castile-La Mancha region in southeast Spain. The area lies between the Mediterranean coastal area and the high central plateaus of the foothills leading up to the mountains. The altitude of the vineyards vary between 400 and 800 meters which moderates the heat of the climate. There are about 65,000 acres of vineyards in the Jumilla DO, 45% of which are in Murcia and 55% in Albacete. There are about 3,000 grape-growers registered in the region. The widely planted Monastrell grape is the same varietal as France’s Mourvèdre, a common grape in the French Rhone Valley and in Australia. (Monastrell is the 'M' in the red 'GSM' blend from those regions - Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre or Monastrell). The Monastrell produced in Jumilla is often considered the best. 

The town of Jumilla is becoming a popular tourist destination along the Jumilla Wine Route that traverses  the Region of Murcia. The city of Murcia is a historic picturesque old town, and the surrounding area produces wines which are becoming ever more recognized at the national and international level.

Clio is the one Spanish wine we collect each year and hold in our cellar in a vertical collection of a series of vintages. It is a consistently high-achieving highly rated wine in a style that we like - big, full bodied, bold, with concentrated forward fruit. I recommend this as a must have in any cellar, for a big thick dense opulent wine to have on hand for impressing guests or anytime tasting enjoyment. At $40, its more suitable for special occasions than an every day wine for most folks. It begs for hearty cheeses, spicy pasta, BBQ or even a charbroiled steak.

Consider the impressive track record for this wine over the last several years. Robert Parker's Wine Advocate scores for this wine: 2003 - 96 points; 2004 - 97 points; 2005 - 95 points; 2006 - 95 points; 2007 - 94 points, 2008 - 94 points, 2009 - 90 points.

This latest release follows in this tradition of a bold wine that provides instant, early gratification, or one that can be aged for several years to settle a bit. As is customary, this Clio is a blend of 70% old vine Monastrell and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon that was barrel-aged for 22-26 months in French and American oak.

The 2014 release bears Clio's hallmark opulence, a powerful, decadent wine with bold aromas and flavors, a thick, dense palate, and a long finish.

Like its traditional lineage of vintages, the 2014 vintage is another huge powerful fruit bomb. Dark inky purple colored, full bodied, 15.5% alcohol with dense concentrated blackberry and black raspberry fruits with layers of complex flavors of dark mocha, graphite, expresso and tongue coating dusty tannins on the big long finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/notes.asp?iWine=2247520

http://bodegaselnido.com/en/

http://www.thecorkscrew.com/

 

Robert Craig Napa Valley Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2001

Robert Craig Napa Valley Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2001

Traveling to Springfield, IL this week, we dined at our favorite site there, Indigo Restaurant. I took from the home cellar BYOB this Robert Craig Howell Mountain Cabernet. This was perfect accompaniment to both my filet of beef and Linda's Ahi Tuna steak and the delectable creme brulee'.

Robert Craig Cabernet is featured often in these pages, as it is the largest or one of the largest producer holding in our cellar. Of the five or six different Cabernet labels offered by Robert Craig, his Howell Mountain is my perennial favorite, and Howell Mtn is one of my favorite appellations of the seventeen found in Napa Valley.

We've focused on and visited Howell Mountain producers on several of our Napa Valley trips - most notably, Arns, Dunn Vineyards, Clark Claudon, Viader, Ladera, and Lamborn. Our holdings of these labels from Howell Mountain may be the most represented appellation of the more than 1200 Napa Cabs in our cellar.

In my opinion, Howell Mountain wines have one of the more distinct and distinguishable terroir based profiles in Napa Valley. The characteristics of Howell Mountain wines are my favorites, big bold fruits driven with highlight tones of mocha, clove and cinnamon spices. I still remember my first Dunn Vineyards Howell Mountain Cabernet from back in 1990 and its distinctive cinnamon spice accents.

Robert Craig vineyard high atop Howell Mountain

Howell Mountain is located in the northeast corner of Napa Valley at the north end of the Vaca mountain range that forms the eastern boundary wall of the valley. The elevation of its vineyards ranged between 1,400 and 2,200 feet above sea level. This is interesting and notable since the elevation means that the vines are located above the fog line which rolls in from San Pablo Bay and the valley floor. That fog line reaching up to 1200 feet in elevation is the demarcation point between the Napa Valley and the Howell Mountain appellations, since it's impact results in different sub-climate growing conditions, thereby resulting in the distinctive terroir of the two areas. Being above the fog lines results in more sunlight, cooler days and warmer nights.

The Howell Mountain A.V.A. (American Viticultural Area, as designated by the US Dept. of  Treasury Alcohol And Tobacco Bureau) was the first sub appellation of Napa when it was designated back in 1983. The area is notable for its two soil types: volcanic ash, also known as “Tuff’, and a dry red clay, both of which are nutrient deficient.  Combine that with the steep hillsides and rocky and porous terrain and you have an environment that places high stress on its vines, resulting in rich concentrated fruit. Stressing the vines produces smaller harvests and smaller berries, but the fruit that is produced is more concentrated, intense and complex, perfect for making superior wines. 

Other notable Howell Moutain producers are Outpost, Cakebread, Duckhorn, and Robert Foley, who produces a Howell Mountain Cabernet and a Claret.  The 2001 Robert Foley Claret received 99 points from Robert Parker and the 2007 vintage received 98 points. Parker gave the 2007 vintage of this Craig Howell label 96 points.

This Robert Craig Cabernet from the Howell Mountain appellation showed all those classic characteristics that showcase the terroir of the appellation.

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, concentrated complex core of black raspberry and black currant accented by a layer of sweet mocha chocolate turning to tones of clove and hints of vanilla and spicy oak, turning to smooth fine tannins on the lingering finish.

At 16 years of age, it drinking nicely, probably at its apex, with no signs of diminution whatsoever.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=33606

http://www.robertcraigwine.com/

http://www.indigocuisine.com/ 

Château Prieuré-Lichine Margaux

Château Prieuré-Lichine Margaux BYOB at Indigo Springfield


For a team dinner in Springfield we dined at Indigo Restaurant, what I believe is perhaps the best dining in the area.  Knowing I was probably going to order a steak and longing for an appropriate Bordeaux wine, I took BYOB this recent vintage Château Prieuré-Lichine Margaux Bordeaux Grand Cru Classe. If I tasted this at the UGCB vintage release tastings I didn't remember so I was eager to try it.

I ordered the New York strip steak Pittsburg style and they delivered as specified. The wine was a perfect complement to the dinner. Considering our group of nine, service was attentive, professional, timely and prompt without being obtrusive or doting. Dinner was up to fine dining standards in all respects.

Château Prieuré-Lichine Margaux Grand Cru Classe Bordeaux 2012

This was a pleasant approachable drinking Bordeaux from a vintage that has been panned in the ratings and the press. Garnet colored, medium bodied, very Margaux like in the dark and red berry fruit aromas accented by bright floral.

Nicely structured and balanced with expressive black cherry and plum fruits with bright lively acidity with hints of cedar and subtle cassis graphite turning to soft moderate tannins on the finish. This represents decent value for near term drinking or aging.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1601104

Indigo - http://www.indigocuisine.com/

Indigo Springfield offers wonderful fine wine-dine experience

Indigo Springfield offers wonderful wine-dine experience

St Clement Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon BTG complements NY Strip Steak Entree Feature

Visiting Springfield, IL, the options for a wine-dine experience are limited. In fact I consider Indigo the only serious wine-dining experience option - one that offers a selection of fine wines to complement the menu, including their limited but carefully selected list of WBTG - Wine-By-The-Glass offers. On previous trips, when I hosted some special dinners there, they have graciously accommodated my BYOB arrangements.

Tonight, my colleague and I both selected the NY Strip steak, and the knowledgeable waitstaff didn't have to ask what I meant when I ordered it 'Pittsburg' style.

The default entree selection came with au-gratin potatoes, grilled vegetables and a mixed green salad - perfect!

To top it off, they offered several wines by the glass including this selection. Since, my dining partner was not a wine aficionado, WBTG was the appropriate approach and this selection made for a perfect dining outing.

The winelist was up to date and complete, including the recently acquired special limited selection of Sea Smoke Pinot Noir.

The Indigo gallery of dog paintings makes for a unique fun outing - three, four, six dogs ... 

Indigo met all expectations this evening, wonderful service - knowledgeable, attentive, pleasant, professional - a great selection of food and wine, well prepared, tasty, at reasonable value. This trendy, stylish, comfortable setting continues to be my obvious regular choice when I am in the area.

St Clement Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 

We hold several vintages of St Clement' premium Oroppas Napa Cabernet, but are not followers of the standard label. This is not an 'Estate' label, wherein all the grapes would need be to grown in producer owned vineyards on the property.

In a good year, wines such as this sourced from multiple sites from multiple growers can be exceptional, as the saying goes, 'all boats rise with the tide'. In lesser years, they can be mediocre, accordingly. This year proved to be a good one for St Clement. I can't wait to try their 2013!   

This 2012 St. Clement Cabernet is a classic example of Napa Valley, combining valley floor terroir and mountain fruit, sourced from several appellations across Napa Valley, including vineyards in Rutherford, St. Helena, Mt. Veeder, Coombsville and Diamond Mountain.

This Napa Cabernet seemed the best wine for our dinner selection and it turned out to be a perfect choice. This wine exceeded my expectations and proved to be a great tasty, pleasant, sophisticated drinking wine, well suited to the meal, offered by the glass, at a reasonable price.  

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, a symphony of nicely balanced, smooth, polished, almost elegant, well integrated flavors of  blackberry, black raspberry, currant and spicy oak flavors with silky round tannins on a smooth lingering finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1998865

http://www.stclement.com/

http://www.indigocuisine.com/