Horizontal Tasting of South Australia Shiraz - Mollydooker "The Enchanted Path", GoDolphin, BCH and '9'

Horizontal Tasting of South Australia Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon Blends - Mollydooker "The Enchanted Path", GoDolphin, Branson Coach House and '9' 

The gala family celebration of life continued with a tasting of a series of Shiraz based wines from South Australia. 

Mollydooker "The Enchanted Path" Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz McLaren Vale 2005

I write about Mollydooker in my blogpost on their premium Shiraz Carnival of Love. As I've written before in these pages, Mollydooker is the handiwork of the then husband-and-wife winemaking team of Sarah and Sparky Marquis. 

Sarah and Sparky Marquis met as students studying winemaking at Roseworthy College. They shared a vision and passion to craft wines people would love. Academically, Sparky was accomplished, winning awards, prizes and trophies including Dux of the College and the prophetic award for the ‘Student most likely to contribute to the Australian Wine Industry’.

In 1994, they debuted as a winemaking team at Fox Creek Wines in McLaren Vale (owned by Sarah’s parents). Their success was immediate, taking out the title of "Bushing King and Queen" for their McLaren Vale Shiraz, a feat they repeated in 1998 and again in 2000. The pair was selected as ‘Winemakers of the Year’ for the wines they produced under the Henry’s Drive and Parson’s Flat labels. They went on to also produce wines for Fox Creek and Shirvington. Robert Parker and Wine Spectator both lavished high praise and highest marks on their handicraft. 

In their first move to starting their own label, the pair produced under the Marquis Philips brand in a partnership with their American distributor Dan Philips. Sarah and Sparky did not own their own vineyards but sourced fruit from selected growers in McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek and Padthaway.

Robert Parker wrote “Sarah and Sparky who live by the motto ‘We make wines that make people go 'wow’ through attention to detail and commitment to excellence' have hit pay dirt with their brilliantly packaged wines... with labels that resemble vaudeville acts from the mid 30’s.”

In 2005, they set out on their own launching "Mollydooker", the Aussie slang term for a left-handed person as both Sarah and Sparky Marquis are left-handed. 

Since 2005, they've focused exclusively on making their own exuberant wines which include a range of Shiraz labels and a variety of Shiraz/Cab/Merlot blends, as well as some adventuresome white wines such as The Violinist, a Verdelho varietal. Their branding features whimsical names and labels with cartoonish characters and illustrations resembling carnival or circus posters in the premium labels 'Carnival of Love' (right) and this 'Enchanted Path' (below).

They source their fruit from 116 acres of vineyards at their winery in McLaren Vale where about 50 percent are planted in Shiraz, with the rest made up of Cabernet, Merlot, Semillon and Chardonnay. Most of their wines bear distinctive whimsical and humorous names and labels with cartoon characters. Never-the-less, many of their wines, while modestly-priced, Mollydookers are often highly rated. Their premium label, 'Velvet Glove' Shiraz retails for $175, however.

As I wrote the other day in a these pages, Sparky and Sara split up a couple years ago and Sarah took over the business while Sparky spent time traveling and contemplating his next chapter. Interestingly, Sparky is a racing car enthusiast buddy of my colleague who manages the ANZ APAC region for me from down there in Adelaide. I'll hope to meet him through our mutual acquaintance if and when I travel there on business, or better, on a wine trip.

Mollydooker "The Enchanted Path" Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz McLaren Vale 2005

This is Syrah (2/3) based accented by Cabernet Sauvignon (1/3). 

This unique blend really works with the Cabernet adding breadth and depth to the big black inky purple colored full bodied Shiraz. The result is a powerful full bodied complex wine with concentrated forward chewy tongue coating black berry and black cherry fruits accented by ripe plum and spice, a layer of vanilla and hints of mocha and anise with fine silky tannins on the long finish.

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate gave this wine a whopping 96 points and wrote in their review: "The 2005 Enchanted Path (66% Shiraz and 34% Cabernet Sauvignon aged in primarily American oak, 60% new) is fashioned from relatively young vines. It reveals an amazing opaque purple/blue/black color (always a hallmark of Marquis wines), a full-bodied, powerful, smoky nose, extravagant layers of fruit, spice, glycerin, and extract, full body, superb intensity, tremendous richness, and a seamless personality. It is a textbook example of a southern Australian red at its richest, fullest, and most pure. For consumers with open minds and progressive palates, this amazing red should age beautifully for 10-15 years. Drink through 2021+

Opaque black inky garnet colored, full bodied, rich, thick concentrated yet balanced harmonious black berry fruits exude aromatics that leap out of the glass with notes of plum, vanilla and black pepper, followed by notes of mocha and licorice flavors of vanilla and dark chocolate are accented with spice and black pepper. Velvet smooth tannins are accented by long pronounced notes of vanilla and spice. 

RM 94 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=247775

For a comparison tasting, we opened another South Australia Cabernet-Shiraz Blend from the same 2005 vintage.

Ben Glaetzer Godolphin South Australia Barossa Valley Cabernet-Shiraz Red Blend  2005

This label was awarded 95 by points James Halliday, 94 points Wine Enthusiast, 93 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Vinou.s 

This is another blend of Shiraz, 80%, from 85-year-old vines, and Cabernet Sauvignon, 20%, from 60-year-old vines, aged in 100% new oak. 

Deep inky black dark garnet-purple colored, medium-full bodied, complex, intense, concentrated black berry black raspberry and blueberry fruits with notes of graphite, cassis, pain grille, vanilla and spice turning to a long lush smooth tannin laced nicely balanced oak finish. This had a very similar profile as the Enchanted Path but lacked its harmonious balance, elegance and smooth mouthfeel.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=261351

I added to the mix, pulling from the cellar this Marquis Phillips '09' Shiraz from the same era 2007 vintage. I can't help but wonder if and have to presume this is the same Shiraz juice as in the Mollydooker, just without the blended Cabernet. This suspicion is strengthened by the fact this is the last vintage of this label in our cellar, of which we own every release of this wine since its inception. 

 Marquis Phillips '09' McLaren Vale Shiraz 2007

Like the other Marquis Philips/Mollydooker branding, this features a whimsical cartoon characterization, this time of a 'roogle', which is 1/2 eagle, and 1/2 kangaroo, representing the American Australian partnership of Marquis and US distributor and partner Dan Phillips. As noted above, this partnership disbanded and the Mollydooker brand was born, launched in 2005.

Consistent with earlier review notes, "this 2007 vintage '9' is dark, big, full bodied and concentrated. It is not as complex or polished as some of the other vintage releases. In addition to the black berry fruits accented by mocha, tobacco and leather, there is a layer of graphite in this that has an edge that tends to detract from the fruit."

Lacking the blend of the Bordeaux varietal (s) would explain this wine being more single-dimensional and less complex, yet no less bodied or concentrated.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=651009

To extend the horizontal tasting we opened another 2004 South Australian Shiraz.

Branson Coach House Barossa Valley Single Vineyard Greenock Block Shiraz 2004

I discovered and tasted this wine with Wine Manager Bill and the Aussie wine buyer at the wine desk at Binny's in Glen Ellyn back upon release. I liked it so much I bought their entire allocation which was a couple six packs.

This property was taken over by Two Hands after the passing of proprietor Malcolm Asden, the result being these wines are now made alongside Two Hands by their winemaker Matt Wenk. The acquisition was made possible by capital from outside foreign investors.

Along with the winery and brand came eighteen acres of Greenock vineyards planted in mature high quality Shiraz which will continue to be produced under the BCH label. Subsequently, Two Hands wine production is also done at the BCH Greenock facility.

They continue to produce BCH premium single vineyard designated labels Coach House Block Rare Single Vineyard and Greenock Block Single Vineyard Shiraz's sourced from the vineyards that surround the winery.

At sixteen years of age, this is aging gracefully, but starting to show its age with slight signs of diminution of the fruits.

Upon opening it was slightly obtuse with a bit of an edge, but over the course of an hour it opened, softened and became more approachable.

Dark inky purple color, full bodied, thick, chewy layers of aromatic flavors of tangy black fruits, raspberry, black cherry and black currants, accented by tones of clove spice, graphite & hints of creme de cassis on a smooth polished moderate tannin finish.

RM 90 points, two points less than the last tastings back nearly four years ago on Aug 6, 2016 and then Oct 11, 2017. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=246545

 

Branson Coach House Barossa Greenock Block Shiraz 2004

Branson Coach House Barossa Valley Single Vineyard Greenock Block Shiraz 2004

For casual sipping in front of a movie, the kids and Linda wanted a hearty flavorful Shiraz so I selected from the cellar this big bold Aussie Shiraz.

I discovered and tasted this wine with Wine Manager Bill and the Aussie wine buyer at the wine desk at Binny's in Glen Ellyn back upon release. I liked it so much I bought their entire allocation which was only a couple six packs.

This property was taken over by Two Hands after the passing of proprietor Malcolm Asden, the result being these wines are now made alongside Two Hands by their winemaker Matt Wenk. The acquisition was made possible by capital from outside foreign investors.

Along with the winery and brand came eighteen acres of Greenock vineyards planted in mature high quality Shiraz which will continue to be produced under the BCH label. Subsequently, Two Hands wine production is also done at the BCH Greenock facility.

They continue to produce BCH premium single vineyard designated labels Coach House Block Rare Single Vineyard and Greenock Block Single Vineyard Shiraz's sourced from the vineyards that surround the winery.

Tonight, even though my Cellartracker records show I am out of this label/release, I found two bottles left in the cellar, (in place of a different label/release from the same producer).

Now, at sixteen years of age, this is aging gracefully, but starting to show its age with slight signs of diminution of the fruits.

Upon opening it was slightly obtuse with a bit of an edge, but over the course of an hour it opened, softened and became more approachable.

Dark inky purple color, full bodied, thick, chewy layers of aromatic flavors of tangy black fruits, raspberry, black cherry and black currants, accented by tones of clove spice, graphite & hints of creme de cassis on a smooth polished moderate tannin finish.

RM 90 points, two points less than the last tastings back nearly four years ago on Aug 6, 2016 and then Oct 11, 2017. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=246545

Branson Coach House Shiraz Single Vineyard Greenock Block 2004

Branson Coach House Shiraz Single Vineyard Greenock Block 2004

We pulled this Branson Coach House Barossa Valley Shiraz for a full flavored but smooth casual sipper with some cheese and biscuits. I bought everything they had in stock when I tasted this at Binny's Glen Ellyn wine desk upon release many years ago. Wish I had more as this is aging and drinking quite nicely at a dozen years of age.

This property was taken over by Two Hands after the passing of proprietor Malcolm Asden, the result being these wines are now made alongside Two Hands by their winemaker Matt Wenk. The acquisition was made possible by capital from outside foreign investors.

Along with the winery and brand came eighteen acres of Greenock vineyards planted in mature high quality shiraz which will continue to be produced under the BCH label. Subsequently, Two Hands wine production is also done at the BCH Greenock facility.

Two Hands developed a range of premium Shiraz sourced from high quality fruit they acquired from top growers' prime locations, eventually growing and branching out to acquire their own vineyard in Barossa and now their own winery.

They'll continue to produce BCH premium single vineyard designated labels Coach House Block Rare Single Vineyard and Greenock Block Single Vineyard sourced from the vineyards that surround the winery.

 Dark inky purple color, full bodied, thick, chewy layers of aromatic flavors of tangy black fruits, raspberry, black cherry and notes of blueberry, accented by tones of clove spice, graphite & hints of creme de cassis on a smooth polished moderate tannin finish.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=246545

 RM 92 points.

Branson Coach House Barossa Greenock Block Shiraz 2004

Branson Coach House Barossa Greenock Block Single Vineyard Shiraz 2004

For dinner on the patio at Angelis Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria on a perfect summer evening, we took this big bold Aussie Shiraz, BYOB.

I discovered and tasted this wine with Wine Manager Bill and the Aussie wine buyer at the wine desk at Binny's in Glen Ellyn back upon release. I liked it so much I bought their entire allocation which was only a couple six packs. Tonight I broke open that last remaining case from that purchase. At a dozen years of age, this is aging gracefully, showing no signs of diminution whatsoever.

Dark inky purple color, full bodied, full aromas and flavors of black fruits, a hint of raspberry and blueberry, accented by tones of graphite & mineral on a smooth polished moderate tannin finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=246545

Branson Coach House Barossa Valley Single Vineyard Greenock Block Shiraz 2004

Branson Coach House Barossa Valley Single Vineyard Greenock Block Shiraz 2004 

The 2004 Branson Coach House rare single vineyard bottling label was one of the highlights of our shiraz wine dinner recently.

Dark purple plum colored, full bodied, aromatic with big dense full flavors of black fruits, raspberry and hints of blueberry, tones of sweet spicy oak with graphite & anise on a smooth polished moderate tannin finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=246545

Big Zinfandels and Shiraz with BBQ kick off summer

Big Zinfandels and Shiraz and barbecue kick off summer

For a Memorial Day summer kick off barbecue Bill and Beth prepared rubbed apple smoked and wet BBQ ribs. And what goes with barbecue? Zinfandel, of course, as well as big hearty Shiraz/Syrah, which oft-times manifests itself in southern Rhones blends from Chateauneuf-du-Pape or lesser appellations (which will  provide great QPR - quality price ratio), Gigondas, or Vayqueras. Of course the Aussie's have their's with 'Barbie'. So, to accompany this hearty barbecue we hoisted big zesty Napa Valley Zinfandels and a pair of big bold Barossa Valley Shiraz's.

Robert Craig Howell Mountain Zinfandel 2006

From Robert Craig, the legendary producer known for his family of Cabernets from 'three mountains and a valley' comes this big Zinfandel.  This full throttled Zinfandel fruit is sourced from the Black Sears Ranch Vineyard at the end of the road high atop Howell Mountain. We tasted and obtained this big bruiser Zin during a winery visit up on Howell Mountain during our Napa Valley Wine Experience 2008, (shown below left).

 
I first discovered Howell Mountain Zinfandel fruit with the Howell Mountain Black Sears Vineyard Zinfandel 1999.  This was was served at a gala state dinner back in 2008 that I had the privilege to attend at the Taiwanese Twin Oaks Estates mansion and Consulate in WDC, just down the hill behind the Washington Cathedral - formerly the estate home of Alexander Graham Bell's descendents. Not until our Robert Craig visit did I learn that the fruit for this wine was sourced from a vineyard near Robert Craig's Howell Mountain property. We conducted a comparison tasting of these two wines back in 2009 (shown top left). 

This time this wine presented itself as heavy, full bodied, concentrated and focused black pepper predominates overpowering the black fruits. Could this be the same Zin we tasted earlier where the black pepper was just a modifier? The black pepper was amazingly intense and forward only begrudgingly giving way to tones of blackberry fruits and bramble. Thick full bodied, almost chewy. Dark garnet color with a brownish tone. 

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=606636

http://www.robertcraigwine.com/
.
Robert Biale 'Party Line' California Zinfandel 2010

Robert Biale Vineyards is a historic legendary Napa Valley producer dating back back to when Aldo Biale immigrated from Northern Italy settled and began growing grapes in the 1930’s. He planted Zinfandel which was widely planted by immigrants throughout the state’s history as a highly flavorful red grape well-suited for its expansive range of arid climates and diverse soils. His inaugural production of 400 cases was produced from 8 acres of old non-irrigated low-yielding vines called “Aldo’s Vineyard.” 

In 1991, Aldo Biale and son Robert partnered with marketer Dave Pramuk to focus on producing world-class wine from the oldest Zinfandel vines on the Biale ranch in Napa’s Oak Knoll District.  

Today, under the direction of Bob Biale, Dave Pramuk, and winemaker Steve Hall, Biale specializes in twenty different Zinfandels including single vineyard designated Zinfandels sourced from thirteen different vineyards spread across Napa Valley, each expressing the terrior, sense of place of that location's unique terrain, soil, micro-climate and exposure. 

While Zinfandel is ideally suited to the area, it comprises only 2% of Napa Valley’s grapes. Biale consider their Zinfandel to be an ideal expression of California and the sites where it is grown. They contend that Zinfandel shows distinct differences in character from site to site like no other grape variety and the fact that the old vines themselves are deeply rooted in original vineyards make them among the greatest expressions of terroir in the world. Their intensive hand-farming, extreme thinning and careful selection of only the fully ripe “black” clusters make for very small yields per vine and give their Zinfandels their distinct personalities and rich, hedonistic style.

In the 1940’s Aldo Biale sold bottles of illicit homemade Zinfandel known as “Black Chickens” over his party line phone service. This wine commemorates and is named for Aldo Biale's taking orders on the local party line, this Biale 'Party Line' Zin is a blend selected from the family's Zin vineyards across Napa.

This Zinfandel was dark ruby colored, full bodied, with complexity of big forward concentrated briary black fruits nicely integrated into a symphony of well orchestrated flavors. 


RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1310741

http://www.robertbialevineyards.com/

Outpost Howell Mountain Zinfandel 2009

A neighbor of Robert Craig high atop Howell Mountain, just across the road from  Lamborn Vineyards, one passes Outpost on the way to the end of road to the Craig estate. We visited these producers during our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2008. All are known for their Cabernets but they all also produce Howell Mountain Zinfandels. It just occurred to me I could've also brought a Lamborn Howell Mountain Zinfandel for a true neighborhood tasting for this event.

Compared to the big concentrated Robert Craig Zinfandel, the Outpost actually came across as smooth, polished and medium-full  bodied. It certainly was more approachable than the full-throttle powerful Craig, which was the favorite of Linda. The Outpost was dark ruby colored, medium-full bodied, nicely balanced, smooth and polished with brambly black fruits, a layer of white pepper and hints of vanilla on the finish.

RM 91 points.

 https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1084352

http://www.outpostwines.com/

Chateau Tanunda 'The Chateau' 100 Year Old Vines Shiraz 2008

This classic Shiraz was the discovery of the Wine Spectator Grand Tour Chicago 2010 where we met the producer, orchestrated procurement and cornered the Midwest market obtaining all nine cases allocated and shipped here. These were divided amongst our OTBN team Bill, Dan, Eric and Ernie and me.  

Bill C's notes tasting notes from the dinner: 'Still big, round and delicious. Deep inky purple in the glass. Fruit forward, layered with soft, integrated tannins. Maybe the best Shiraz I have had. This is softening somewhat and I will not hold remaining bottles for more than another 3 years. Drinking exceptionally well.'

WCC 96 points.  


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=937673

http://www.chateautanunda.com/ 



 Branson Coach House Greenock Block Single Vineyard Barossa Valley Shiraz 2002

Another full throttle shiraz from Barossa Valley, this 2002 is still big bold and fruit filled at thirteen years of age. I love this style of tongue coating rich concentrated complex fruit accented with a bit of vanilla and spice. We drank ours  a few years ago but this was still vibrant.

Bill's notes on this wine as posted on Cellartracker:

"Medium garnet in color. Fruit has faded somewhat but has been replaced with some layers of minerality, coffee and cola. Still a bit of blackberry on the finish. Should drink now." 

WCC 88 points. 
RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=95066 

 

Branson Coach House Single Vineyard Greenock Block Barossa Valley South Australia Shiraz 2004

Branson Coach House Single Vineyard Greenock Block Barossa Valley South Australia Shiraz 2004

Dark inky color, full bodied, tongue coating full flavors of black fruits, a hint of raspberry and blueberry, graphite & mineral on a smooth polished moderate tannin finish. Starting to fall off slightly from earlier tastings.

RM 91 points.
Tasted from B&B's cellar w/ L Bill & Beth, BYOB at Angeli's Restaurant, our favorite neighborhood trattoria.

http://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=246545 


Also tasted ..... Neiman Cellars Napa Valley Caldwell Vineyard Red Wine 1998....

Neiman Cellars Napa Valley Caldwell Vineyard Red Wine 1998

Neiman Cellars Napa Valley Caldwell Vineyard Red Wine 1998

Huge floral fragrance and rose petal tastes predominates from start to finish, accented by leather and a hint of charcoal, black cherry, black berry, cedar, and tar on a long full tannin finish. Consistent tasting notes from earlier tasting. 
RM 90 points. 


Tasted from the cellar w/ L Bill & Beth, BYOB at Angeli's Restaurant, our favorite neighborhood trattoria.

 http://cellartracker.com/w?..

Bill astutely exclaimed this tasted like a Marqaux! Alas, on researching the Caldwell Vineyard one finds this is not mere coincidence. From the Caldwell Vineyard website we learn that John Caldwell sought more than inspiration from Bordeaux.  From Caldwell Vineyard.com - "A trip to France and a chance visit to Chateau Haut Brion inspired his interest in clonal research. He planted his first block (including a few vines smuggled in from Bordeaux) in 1982 and harvested Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc in 1985. Positive comments from some of the industry’s most respected palates inspired John to expand his plantings. He also built a nursery to supply the state’s top wineries with the latest clones and rootstocks from France.
In the early 1990s, the Caldwell property gained international exposure thanks to the highly praised Chardonnay and Merlot vineyard-designate bottlings from Pahlmeyer Winery. Since that time, the acreage devoted to vines have expanded dramatically and the list of clients has grown to include Phelps, Mura, Maris, Neiman, and Viader."

The first Caldwell Proprietary Red Wine was produced in the same vintage year, 1998 as this release offering from Neiman Cellars.

Also tasted ...

Branson Coach House Single Vineyard Greenock Block Barossa Valley South Australia Shiraz 2004

Dark inky color, full bodied, tongue coating full flavors of black fruits, a hint of raspberry and blueberry, graphite & mineral on a smooth polished moderate tannin finish. Starting to fall off slightly from earlier tastings.

RM 91 points.
From B&B's cellar.

http://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=246545