Showing posts with label Cliff Lede. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cliff Lede. Show all posts

Saturday, March 22, 2025

Premium Napa Reds for Family Birthday Celebration

Premium Napa Reds for Family Birthday Celebration 

 Son Ryan and Michelle hosted the family for daughter/grand-daughter Mackenizie’s birthday. Ryan pulled from his cellar a flight of premium wines for the occasion.


Before dinner, they served a selection of artisan cheeses: Rogue Creamery Oregon Blue, Italian triple milk soft cheese, and 1yr aged El Trigo DOP Manchego Sheep’s Mile from Toledo, Spain.


Rogue Creamery Oregon Blue, La Tur Italian triple milk soft ripened cheese,  1yr aged El Trigo DOP Manchego Sheep’s Mile from Toledo, Spain.

Caseificio dell'Alta Langa, from the village of Bosia, in the heart of Alta Langa, a short distance from Alba, Barolo and Barbaresco. Family run since 1881, continuing the work of their grandparents passed down from generation to generation the ancient practice of local shepherds in the production of cheeses based on mixed or goat's milk. 

Ryan pulled from his cellar this wine flight - ‘08 Pierre Moncuit BtB Champaigne, 2012 Kapcsandy Yountville Cabernet, and 2013 Cliff Lede SLD Cabernet. I brought from our home cellar a 2003 vintage Integrity Shiraz by Marquis Philips. 


Pierre Moncuit Blanc de Blancs Brut Grand Cru Champagne 2008

This is from the Grand Cru village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger in the Côte des Blancs. The hamlet, one of the world’s best sites for Chardonnay with its ideal great terroir, old vines, and learned winemakers, is also home to other notable producers such as Krug, Salon, Pierre Péters and Selosse. 

The estate is run by the mother and daughter team Nicole and Valérie Moncuit. Except for a Rose’, all their labels they produce are single vintage, single estate sourced wines that represent the terroir of the village. The 2008 vintage was one of the best in this century.

The 2008 Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru was given extended time on the lees for more than ten years resulting in added complexity that developed in bottle and was disgorged in November 2020. 

It has all the racy, laser sharp acidity of the vintage, and the delicate richness we can attribute to élévage — the wine ferments in stainless steel, to preserve fruit purity, and is allowed to undergo malolactic fermentation, converting crisp, apple-y malic acid into rounder, softer lactic. There’s no oak aging, but this latest shipment of the wine spent nearly 15 years aging in the bottle, a time during which flavors meld and become something rich, toasty and deeply mineral.

Any sharp edges this wine may have had on release have softened and relaxed, leaving a complex wine with great depth. And while some 2008 vintage Champagnes (ahem, Krug, Cristal) are selling for hundreds of dollars, Moncuit’s is available for much less.

Reseller’s notes - Baked apple tart, spice, apricot, orange peel, spice, hazelnut and coffee are some of the many aromas and flavors that shape this wonderfully complex Champagne from Moncuit. 

Antonio Galloni of Vinous gave this 94 points.

“Moncuit's Extra Brut …shows a different facet of its personality in this version, with lower dosage vis-à-vis the Brut version. Here the flavors are brighter and more sculpted throughout. Hints of toastiness, almond and tangerine oil add an exotic flair that makes the Extra Brut absolutely beguiling. Lower dosage seems to exalt the minerality and bright acids of the year, while pushing the fruit a bit into the background. Both Brut and Extra Brut bottlings are terrific; choosing among them comes down to personal preference. 94 points” Antonio Galloni, Vinous.

Kapcsandy Estate Yountville State Lane Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

Ryan served from his cellar, a large format magnum, this 100 point ‘perfect’ wine (Robert M. Parker, Jr.) is from Kapcsándy (pronounced "Cup-chon-dy") Family Vineyard in Yountville, central Napa Valley, a father-son team of Lou and Louis Kapcsándy. 

Lou Kapcsándy emigrated to the U.S. from Hungary in 1956 and had a successful career in chemical engineering and manufacturing in the San Francisco Bay Area, then in Seattle. 

In 1998, Lou and his wife, Bobbie visited Bordeaux and the centuries-old estate, Leoville-Las Cases where they were inspired to retire in California and create a wine-based business in partnership with their son, Louis, Jr. There vision and goal was to produce wines of “First Growth” quality that could rival any region or winery in the world.

After a three month search they discovered the 20-acre parcel in Yountville, one the original crown jewels of Beringer Estates Private Reserve Cabernet, and acquiring the property in May 2000. They set upon a rigorous plan to redevelop the property including replanting the vineyard.

In 2002, the Kapcsándys completely replanted the vineyard site to 15 specific blocks, primarily Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, and constructed a state-of-the-art winery in September 2005.  

Son Louis, born in Marin County, California and raised in Seattle attended the University of Washington where he played varsity football and gained a degree in economics. After graduation, he worked in Los Angeles in feature-film post-production.

Louis Jr. began his wine career in 1999 when he co-founded Grand Cru Imports LLC with his father, specializing in Bordeaux Cru Classé and Petits Chateaux wines. He moved to Bordeaux to learn the intricacies of the Place de Bordeaux (a network of chateau owners, agents, and merchants) working for negociant firm Maison Joanne.

While at Maison Joanne, Louis visited more than 100 chateaux and learned fermentation methods, then apprenticed at Jean Luc & Murielle Thunevin of Ch. Valandraud (St. Emilion). During this time, he learned both classic and cutting-edge winemaking techniques from Alain Vauthier (Ch. Ausone) and Peter Sisseck (Pingus, Ribera del Duero).

Louis (Jr) returned in 2002 to co-found Kapcsándy Family Vineyard with his father. Today, he is intimately involved in all vineyard and winemaking decisions.

In the early days, and for this release, Denis Malbec was the consulting Winemaker for Kapcsandy Family Winery. Denis was born at Latour, where he learned winemaking and vineyard management early on with his father, Jean-Noel Malbec who worked at Château Latour from 1947 to 1994, and his grandfather, Camille Malbec who worked in the vineyard from the 1920s until the late 1970s.

Denis initially studied viticulture and enology in Bordeaux and later in Reims, Champagne. He completed his studies with a “Tour de France” of the vineyards with work at Château Haut-Brion, Château Lagrange, the Pugnac Cooperative in Côte de Bourg, Léon Viollant, owner and wine merchant in Côte de Beaune, Duval Leroy, in the Côte des Blancs in Champagne and at Calvet, negociant in Bordeaux.

Denis started at Château Latour as one of the cellar workers in 1993 and took the position as enologist and winemaker at Château Latour in 1994 until 1999.

Denis and his wife moved to the United States in 2000, setting up base in St. Helena, working for such clients over the years as Charles Krug, Kapcsandy Wines, Respite Wines, Sodaro Estate and Medlock Ames. They also made Aliénor.

Denis worked with Kapcsandy Family from 2005 until he was tragically killed in a car accident in Yountville in 2016.

Today, winemaking duties are managed by the collaboration of consulting winemaker Tony Arcadia and Cellar Master David Sotelo. 

Tony left his well-established career in tech and engineering to follow his passion for wine after 20 years working as an engineer aboard Navy submarines and then IBM. 

He graduated from UC Davis’s oenological program and trained in France at Rhône-based Maison M. Chapoutier. Returning to the Napa Valley, he served as assistant winemaker at Nickel & Nickel in Oakville. 

In 2009, Tony joined up with renowned winemaker Heidi Peterson Barrett collaborating making wine together.

Tony’s addition to the winemaking team followed a career path parallel to Kapcsándys, from engineering background and training in France to pursue desire to cultivate vineyard-designated wines.

David Sotelo began his career in the wine industry Napa Wine Company, where he worked for 11 years before joining the Kapcsándy Family Winery team. He fondly recalls his first harvest at Kapcsándy in 2005 and the excitement of their first 100-point score from Robert Parker, Jr. for the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon-Grand Vin.

This 2012 Grand Vin Kapcsàndy release is a single vineyard designated label sourced, 100% from the State Lane Vineyard in Yountville, composed of 99% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Merlot. The wine was aged for 20 months in new French oak barrels.

This release was awarded 100 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, 99 points by Int'l Wine Review, 98 by Vinous, and 97 by Antonio Galloni.

All the pundits are consistent that this wine should last several more decades at the apex of its drinking profile. 

If you’ve been fortunate to taste a 100 point ‘perfect’ wine, you might be in for a surprise … they’re not a blockbuster that knocks you over with big forward fruits, or some other highlight, rather, they’re remarkable for their lack of excessive notes, and are flawless, and seamless in their polished harmonic integration.

Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, complex, rich, plush polished, a symphony of ripe black currant and raspberry fruits with floral violet, cinnamon spice, graphite and hints of black olive and cedar notes on a smooth silky tannin laced lingering finish. 

RM 94 points. 




Cliff Lede Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 

This is the standard Estate bottled Cabernet Sauvignon with fruit sourced from the hillside terraces of the Poetry Vineyard down the road and across the Silverado Trail from the winery, from the Twin Peaks Vineyard estate surrounding the winery, and a few neighboring vineyards in the Stags Leap District.

Notably, this is just across and down the road from Kapcsàndy Family Winery and vineyards of the label above. 

One of our favorites and mainstays of both Ryan's and my cellars, the Cliff Lede Stags Leap property is just down and across the road from Kapcsàndy property geographically. We’ve visited the estate several times during our Napa Valley visits and held several private tastings/tours there. 

This is a consistent crowd pleaser from vintage to vintage. We hold about a half dozen vintages of this label and they seem to hit their stride and be in their peak after a decade of cellaring. 

The wine is composed of small lots from Lede estate vineyard best blocks, representing a diverse range of carefully selected clones and rootstocks. From Poetry’s exposed, rocky terraces that are volcanic in origin, to the ancient riverbed alluvial soils of Twin Peaks, the breadth of contributing sites translates into a wine of impressive complexity.

Robert Parker gave this release 93 points. 

Producers’ Production Notes - “Hand harvested throughout the night, the fruit was immediately subjected to rigorous selection by our three-tiered sorting process, including our cutting edge optical sorter, with a goal of retaining only perfect berries. The selected fruit was gently delivered to specially-designed truncated tanks via gravity by our crane system, minimizing disruption of berry integrity. Cold soaks lasted approximately five days, and fermentations were managed by a combination of délestage and pumpovers. Extended maceration ranging from four to five weeks fine-tuned tannin profiles, allowing us to build mouth feel and wine complexity. The wine was aged in French oak barrels, 50% of which were new, for twenty-one months.”

Winemaker Notes - “Inky purple with blood-red tinged edges, the elegant and seamless 2013 Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon's multilayered perfume fills the glass with notes of violets, lavender, and spring flowers. Intertwined with the floral notes are heady layers of plum, blackberry, and red currents. Silky, unctuous flavors of smoked cardamom, cinnamon, and black licorice lay out on the palate and finish with the taste and texture of liquefied rocks.”

Dark garnet and dense purple in color, full bodied, bright vibrant black berry and black currant fruits with tones of anise, hints of cinnamon spice and oak with firm but smooth tannins on a lingering finish.

RM 91 points. This got 93 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and 91 points from Vinous



I brought from our home cellar this limited release premium label from Marquis Philips, predecessor to the widely popular Mollydooker brand. 

Marquis Philips Integrity Shiraz 2003 

We loved the Marquis Philips portfolio of wines and wrote about them extensively in these pages, and of course, today they’re the widely popular Mollydooker brand.



Marquis Philips was formed as a collaboration between the U.S. importer Dan Philips and Sparky and Sarah Marquis, highly-regarded Australian winemakers who brought Fox Creek to cult fame. They had a falling out between the founders in late 2005 and the Marquis started their own label, Mollydooker. (Marquis Philips wines made since about 2005 were overseen by Chris Ringland, another legendary Australian winemaker.)

While Marquis Philips wines were known for their eye-catching, often provocative labels such as the ‘roogle’, a cross between an eagle and kangaroo - representing the Aussie, American partnership. Mollydooker went on to create their own portfolio is whimsical eye-catching labels. 

Robert Parker wrote - Perhaps another way to think of these wines is that they are XXX-rated stuff. They’re not exactly wines for those wanting finesse, lightness, restraint, or intellectual challenge. These are totally decadent homages to joy and yumminess. Or. As a friend of mine said, they are ‘fragrantly delicious.'"

Because of Marquis Philips’ tumultuous history, the affordable wines are highly sought-after and difficult to obtain in the current market. We acquired a couple vintages of this, their ultra-premium flagship label at auction. This was our last bottle, I was saving for a special occasion.

Of course, the saga continues and becomes more interesting. The turmoil in the house of Philips continued as Sarah and Sparky then had a falling out of their own, and winemaker Sarah bought out Sparky. Sparky it turns out was a friend of my Australian employee representative when I was still running a software company! I had plans to visit Aussie wine country and meet Sparky, then Covid, and I never made the trip. 

Marquis Philips "Integrity" Shiraz McLaren Vale South Australia 2003 


Notably, we drank an earlier vintage release of this label at another special occasion - taking it to a highly acclaimed restaurant BYOB for our anniversary celebration dinner five years ago - as covered in this blogpost - Goosefoot Chicago Anniversary Celebration Dinner, excerpted below.


Marquis Philips 'Integrity' Mclaren Vale Shiraz 2001

This is the premium release from Marquis Philips, precursor to Mollydooker. and their Velvet Glove premium label. We acquired this at auction a decade ago ... packaged in special gift box - awaiting a suitable occasion for gifting or serving ... OTBN - Open That Bottle toNight! 

This (2001) got over-the-top 99 and 97 point ratings from Parker who called it 'virtually perfect'. 

Back in the day, winemaker and producers Sarah and Sparky Marquis considered this the finest they had ever produced. 

We hold a couple dozen bottles of their wines dating back two decades. 

Ironically, we hosted Aussie colleague Peter F this weekend in Chicago and it turns out he is a personal friend of Sparky back in Adelaide South Central Australia! 

That Integrity packed a walloping 16.2% alcohol but didn't come across as the least bit overpowering. Parker cited the anticipated maturity out to 2020 so it was supposedly still at but nearing the end of its apex. 

Similar to and consistent with that earlier release … 

Inky dark garnet purple color, full bodied, big rich concentrated and multi-dimensional, but not as big, forward or unctuously rich as some that we have had, the fruit was also a bit more subdued than expected, black berry fruits accented by white floral, cassis, leather, tobacco, tea and hints of vanilla with fine smooth silky tannins on a long finish. Perhaps the fruit has subsided over the almost two decades. 

At the time I gave the 2001 RM 93 points, tonight I give the 2003 92 points. 


https://mollydookerwines.com.au/

https://twitter.com/MollydookerWine

https://twitter.com/unwindwine

Robert Parker writings about Marquis Philips …

“Marquis Philips is the most exciting wine project to emerge from Australia, and perhaps the New World, in the last year. Run, don't walk to a client of The Grateful Palate and secure as much as you can of these wines. This must be the most exciting development that has occurred in the Southern Hemisphere over the last several years. Marquis Philips is a partnership between highly talented winemakers Sarah and Sparky Marquis and their American importer, Dan Philips (of The Grateful Palate). I favorably reviewed the stunning debut values of the Marquis Philips range in the 2000 vintage. Remarkably, the 2001s are even more amazing, and probably for the price, the greatest red wine values in existence ... anywhere! Robert Parker, Wine Advocate #143 (Oct 2002”

Robert Parker 93 - “The flagship offering, the 2003 Shiraz Integrity, is a slightly down-sized version of the massive 2002 and 2001. Nevertheless, it is an amazing, modern-styled wine. It boasts a dense purple color, a big, sweet nose of chocolate, espresso roast, blackberries, creme de cassis, Asian spices, and new saddle leather, full body, an opulent texture, and tremendous length. Drink this seductive, rich Shiraz over the next decade.”

“The highly respected South Australian viticulturists/winemakers, Sarah and Sparky Marquis, in partnership with their importer, Dan Philips of the Grateful Palate, successfully launched the inexpensive line of Marquis Philips wines several years ago, creating something of a monster because of their enormous crowd appeal. While 2003 is a lighter vintage than its predecessors, these offerings have turned out nicely. The handful of consumers who deemed 2002 too concentrated for such inexpensive wines will be delighted to learn that the 2003s are slightly lighter, but still loaded with character as well as flavor. They possess heavy duty, exuberant fruit, ripeness, and considerable personality.”
94 - Wine AdvocateReview Date: 02/2013


Sunday, December 29, 2024

Family Christmas Celebration and Wine Dinner

Family Christmas Celebration and Wine Dinner

The entire family, our four kids and their eleven kids/grandkids gathered at our house for a gala Christmas celebration, gift exchange and dinner. It’s wonderful that we are near to each other and enjoy so much getting together - especially the kids with their cousins. 

Linda prepared a fabulous dinner highlighted by ramekins of lobster tails and buttered croutons, beef tenderloin as main courses. Sides included twice baked potatoes, mashed potatoes haricot verts and chopped salad. 

Also set out was a selection of artisan cheeses with crackers, an extensive selection of Christmas cookies and festive punch.

From the cellar we had a broad wine flight of champagne, whites and reds.    

The wine flight - 

Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 1998

Croix Estate Narrow Gauge Sonoma County Chardonnay 2019

Radio-Couteau RRV Savoy Vineyard Chardonnay 2017

Chateau Palmer Margaux 1981 (Magnum)

Cliff Lede High Fidelity 2018

Fantesca Spring Mtn District Cabernet Sauvignon 2004


Table one of two … 



Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 1998

It’s easy to see why this is a timeless classic Champagne, Dom Pérignon, the benchmark of premium French Champagne. A perfect bottle to close out the year of our 50th anniversary, with family for our holiday celebration. 



At 25 years, I wondered what condition this vintage bottle would be in and it was perfect, still at the apex of its drinking profile and showing no signs of diminution whatsoever. This was perhaps the best Champagne I think I’ve ever had - delicious.  

Deep dark golden color, medium bodied, fine mousse, and complex bouquet and flavors of brioche, yellow apple, pear and hint of peach with touch of mineral, lightly toasted almonds, refined acidity, a creamy mid palate, and a long and focused finish. 

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?129100

We then moved to two Sonoma County Chardonnays

Croix Estate Narrow Gauge Sonoma County Chardonnay 2019

This Croix Estate Narrow Gauge brand and the Croix Estate winery in Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, is the ‘sister’ winery to Venge Vineyards in Calistoga Napa Valley, of winemaker/producer Kirk Venge. The rather odd, unique name is a testament to the pioneer entrepreneurs and their historic narrow gauge railroad that connected the producers in Sonoma County with the marketplace in San Francisco. 

As described on the producer website, “It was the Carter brothers, in an act of political and economic defiance, that introduced the narrow gauge railroad movement to Northern California in the late 1870’s. In what has become known as the bay areas first example of radical, technological innovation, the introduction of an alternative goods distribution system was a direct challenge to the hegemony of the Central Pacific Railroad’s grip on the transportation of goods. Prior to the injection of this new go-to-market path, Sonoma County’s local and regional marketplace was constrained by a handful of distribution centers that were costly in time and material to the average, family-owned producer. Only when the more affordable and nimble narrow gauge tracks and trains were put into place in Northern California did the region see the rapid expansion of agricultural and industrial development take place. Our Narrow Gauge Chardonnay celebrates the historical significance of such a movement.” 

Kirk grew up in the wine business working in the vineyards and winery aside his legendary dad, Nils Venge. Born and raised in Rutherford, Napa Valley, Kirk Venge earned his degree in Viticulture and Enology at the prestigious University of California, Davis.  After graduating, he set upon buying the Venge brand and winery from his family. From that foundation in Napa Valley, he ventured across the Mayacamas divide and set roots in Sonoma County, where his mother was born. 

In addition to Croix Estate and his namesake vineyard and winery, Venge Vineyards, he is consulting winemaker for several, prominent micro-producers in Napa Valley.

We’ve been fans of Nils’ and Kirk’s wines since the earliest days and first met Kirk while visiting Nils at the old Penny Lane Family Vineyards at the Saddleback Winery in Rutherford and he took us up to the Rossini Ranch estate in Calistoga back in 2002 (shown above) which was under initial construction at the time. 

Croix Estate Narrow Gauge Chardonnay is sourced from estate vineyard in the heart of Russian River Valley to the Pacific Coast, and from superior vineyards throughout Sonoma County. They have relationships with our growers across nearly two dozen vineyard sites within the region. 

This Croix Estate Narrow Gauge Chardonnay is a blend of select vineyards grown throughout Russian River Valley. With access to many of the best sites in the appellation, we felt compelled to create a wine that expresses the regional position in its entirety. These notable vineyards include Morelli Lane Vineyard - Dutton Ranch, Floodgate Vineyard, Calesa Vineyard, Bacigalupi Vineyard, Ritchie Vineyard, and Richard Dinner Vineyard.

Winemaker notes - “A fuller, yet bright and refreshing style of Chardonnay, this wine has a golden straw presence in the glass with a bouquet of raw honey, marmalade, fresh citrus zest, toasted pine nuts, rocky flints, all spice, toasted oak and lusciousness on the nose that is ever so inviting. Island ripe pineapple, apple, stone fruit, and crisp pear leave the mouthwatering in a cascade of pleasure.

Wine Enthusiast gave this release 94 points.

Golden straw colored, medium bodied, there was consensus that the crisp tropical and stone fruit tones were rather muted giving way to the mineral, rock flint and pine nuts, taking away, detracting from the potential of the terroir.

RM 92 points. 



Radio-Couteau RRV Savoy Vineyard Chardonnay 2017

We wrote about Radio-Coteau and their portfolio of single vineyard designated wines in an earlier post last spring -  Radio Coteau Sonoma Coast Los Colinas Syrah, excerpted below.

The interesting moniker Radio-Coteau (rā’ dē ō – kō tō’) is a French colloquial expression suggesting “word of mouth” , which literally translated means “broadcasting from the hillside”. Ironically, the origin of use of the term is from the French Northern Rhone wine region. The odd name is reminiscent of one of our favorite producer, Vieux Telegraph, ironically from the Rhône River Valley, but deriving its name for a different historical reason

This is the handicraft of Eric Sussman, winegrower and proprietor of the the property going back to the early 2000s. While scouting vineyard sites for the first Radio-Coteau vintage, he met and began a relationship with Robert Von Weidlich, the owner of the property at that time. The 2002 Radio-Coteau Von Weidlich Zinfandel was the first product of that collaboration.

Eric established Radio-Coteau in 2002, focusing on the north coast vineyards of western Sonoma County and the Anderson Valley up to the north in Mendocino County. 

The current owners acquired the Radio-Coteau historic 42-acre Estate vineyard and ranch located on a ridgetop above the town of Occidental in 2012.  The estate winery was originally named Joseph Morelli & Sons before Prohibition, the Lemorel winery (as it was later known) dates back to 1892, when the first vines were planted. 

The estate lies ten miles from the ocean on a ridgetop above Occidental, halfway between Santa Rosa and the Pacific coast, situated 800 feet above sea level, the property is a diverse agroecosystem, or terroir, with beneficial Goldridge soil.  The benchland location is comprised of the fine sandy loam Goldridge soil, remnants of an ancient seabed, which provides excellent drainage and moderate fertility.

Eric, a New York State native, developed his passion for winegrowing while studying agriculture at Cornell University. After spending several years in Washington’s Yakima Valley, he worked in France as an apprentice working the 1995 vintage in Bordeaux at Baron Philippe de Rothschild of Pauillac, and 1996 in Burgundy at Domaine Comte Armand of Pommard and Domaine Jacques Prieur of Meursault. There he gained respect and appreciation for the intrinsic connection between land, people and the wine they produce.

Returning to the US, he spent a year at Bonny Doon Winery in Santa Cruz, before settling in Western Sonoma County where he spent four years as the associate winemaker for Dehlinger.

Most of his portfolio of wines are sourced from the Sonoma Coast AVA, which borders the Green Valley and Russian River Valley AVAs but he also produces some wines sourced from remote sites such as this one. 

Radio-Coteau has established blocks of Syrah and old-vine Zinfandel, and recently replanted existing acreage to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Riesling. The estate has three vineyards.

This 2017 Radio-Coteau is a single vineyard designated wine from the Savoy Vineyards up near the town of Philo in Mendocino County, north of Sonoma. 

The producer says of this site - “ Burgundy has proven that quality Chardonnay and Pinot Noir can be grown in the same soil, Corton hill being the classic example. Wines from this special place inspired our decision to make Chardonnay from the organically farmed Savoy Vineyard, whose soil and climate are also ideal for both Burgundian varietals.” 

This 2017 release was rated 91-93 points by Antonio Galloni of Vinous. 

Golden straw colored, medium bodied, full round, nicely balanced mineral, slightly obtuse sharp forward pear and lemon citrus fruits with melon, floral and stone fruits notes on a tangy acidic finish.

RM 92 points. 

Moving to the red wine flight with the beef tenderloin …

Chateau Palmer Margaux 1981 (Magnum)

This magnum birth year vintage Bordeaux is the oldest of a vertical collection of large format bottles for each of the kid’s birth years, and probably the most challenged questionable vintage for long term aging. 

We toured the grounds of the magnificent Chateau and estate, just a couple of blocks from our B&B rooming house, during our visit to Margaux in 2019, but traded phone calls and emails several times with the producer during our visit and failed to set up our private tour and tasting. 

At twenty three years the foil was intact, the label was perfect, and the most important cork was soft, spongy and disintegrated upon removal, and the fill level was bottom of neck, top of shoulder, (as shown) showing signs revealing its age. 


I decanted this several hours before serving. 

This release was awarded 92 points by John Gilman in 2016, 90-92 points by Wine Advocate back in 2002, and 91 points by Vinous most recently in 2023. Wine Spectator gave it 89 points. 

Despite being from magnum which should age more gracefully and longer than a standard bottle, ours was showing its age and was past its prime drinking window.

The color was dark garnet colored, showing some murkiness and slight bricking on the brim. Medium to full bodied, the nice dark berry bouquet persisted while the somewhat subdued slightly austere fruit flavor notes were off set by a slight vegetative musky funkiness, with earthy, black tea, leather and tobacco notes on a moderate, fine tannin laced finish. 

RM 86 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=22774


Fantesca Napa Valley Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 

Fantesca Estate and Winery, one of our favorite Napa Valley producers is owned by Duane and Susan Hoff, who moved on from their careers as executives at Best Buy for this Spring Mountain District winery above St Helena in the Mayacamas Range between Mt Veeder and Diamond Mountain. 

We still held several cases and a vertical collection spanning a decade from our visits to the Fantesca Estate & Winery during our Napa Valley Spring Mountain Experience in the autumn of 2009, and earlier during our Napa Wine Experience 2007. 

The Fantesca Spring Mountain District Estate and Winery (shown right), in the early years’ vintages, from 2002-2007, were managed by winemakers Nils and Kirk Venge; then in 2008 they teamed up with legendary winemaker Heidi Barrett. 

From their ten acre vineyard, they produce ultra-premium 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, and there is an acre planted in Petit Verdot. 

They also source grapes from the Sonoma County Russian River Valley to produce a bright crisp full flavored Burgundian Chardonnay, the first ever by Heidi Barrett. 

Fantesca products make for festive serving features or as elegant gifts as are lavishly packaged in stylish heavy etched glass bottles with painted 'labels', or in original wood cases. 

The elegant upscale Fantesca packaging and branding features etched and painted weighty bottles each explaining the namesake Fantesca.'

The name of the winery comes from a character in the Italian comedy troupe that inspired Cirque Du Soleil. La Fantesca was the single female character in the early theatrical performances of Commedia dell’Arte. Both the lover and the equal of the protagonist, Harlequin, Fantesca could always be counted on to charm the audience. 

Owners, Duane and Susan Hoff write that "when we heard Fantesca described as ”Sexy, Smart, and Unpretentious,” we knew we had found a name worth living up to."'

Being extraordinary marketeers, Duane and Susan brought on DLynn Proctor as wine ambassador Director. I first met DLynn when he was Ambassador and Education Director at legendary Australian producer Penfolds when he hosted  a Penfolds Grange Wine Tasting Flight here in Chicago. What fun to meet DLynn in person having enjoyed watching his pursuit of his Master Sommelier Certification in the entertaining critically acclaimed documentary movie SOMM which is a feature on Netflix.

DLynn is more than a sommelier; he's a celebrity in his own right, having also appeared as Kevin Hart's sommelier in the Peacock Original TV Series "Hart to Heart" in addition to his prominent role in the documentary series 'SOMM,'he  and add "Associate Producer" to his titles with his cameo and behind-the-scenes work in the Netflix Original film 'Uncorked.'

We first met owner/producer Dwayne Hoff when we hosted him in our home during his promotion tour to Chicago shortly after acquiring the Spring Mountain Estate. 

Duane Hoff pouring 2002 vintage while visiting
Rick & Linda 
in Chicago during 2004 vintage
release marketing outreach tour.
.
Fantesca Estate and Winery, Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon 2004.

This bottle included a fun, unique, creative Fantesca ‘Fortune Corkie’, a contest for all consumers to participate to submit entries in exchange for wine!



Fantesca Napa Valley, Spring Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon is packaged in an elegant etched glass, painted bottle. 
(2006 shown)

Medium-full bodied, dark garnet color; complex but smooth and polished with bright forward fruits of black currant, dark berry and cherry, accented by sweet dark chocolate, a hint of cassis, and a tone of spice on the lingering refined tannin finish.

RM 91 points.




Cliff Lede “High Fidelity” Napa Valley Red 2018

Ryan brought from his cellar this ultra-premium Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend which he acquired as part of his wine club member allocation. This was my WOTN - Wine of the Night (of the reds, aside the Champagne). 

This is from Cliff Lede estate vineyards, established in 2002, they encompass sixty acres in the famed Stags Leap District. Owner Cliff Lede has assembled a world class team with Vineyard Architect David Abreu  and Winemaker Christopher Tynan. 

We've visited the Cliff Lede estate on several of our Napa Valley wine trips and several of our wine buddies including son Ryan source allocated wines as members of their club. 

Winemaker notes - “The 2018 vintage was a glorious growing year for Napa Valley. A frost-free and uniform bud break was followed by steady spring weather during flowering, allowing for an even and generous fruit set. Summer conditions were moderate, with warm days and cool nights, ideal for slow and steady grape maturation.”

“Optimal ripeness was achieved thanks to an early autumn of consistently warm, but not hot, days. The pristine ripening conditions allowed for very intense fruit flavor concentrations. The wines show exceptional balance with concentrated, ripe fruit complemented by bright acidity and supple, yet intense, structure.”

The Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in this blend are from our Twin Peaks estate vineyard, while the Cabernet Franc hails from acclaimed viticulturist David Abreu’s Madrona Ranch. The vineyards are farmed with meticulous attention to detail, maintaining yields at sparse levels—ranging from two to three tons per acre. The wine is composed of just a few of our best lots from these most cherished sites.

This was a blend of Bordeaux varietals - 50% Cabernet Franc, 25% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% Petit Verdot. 

The wine was aged in French oak barrels, 66% of which was new, for twenty-two months. Production was 1,142 cases.

Winemaker Notes - “Dark ruby colored, the 2018 High Fidelity displays a succulent assortment of complex and intriguing aromas and flavors. It starts with a fragrance of sage, steeped Oolong black tea, rhubarb, and melted black licorice notes. There’s a rush of red currants, fruitcake, cinnamon candies, and black truffle flavors across the palate.”

“The texture is fine and complete and essence of tobacco leaf, minerals, and salted caramel glide across the lush fresh finish.” – Christopher Tynan, Director of Winemaking

This was rated 94 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate and Jeb Dunnuck. 

The texture is fine and complete and essence of tobacco leaf, minerals, and salted caramel glide across the lush fresh finish. – Christopher Tynan, Director of Winemaking

Dark garnet-purple color, medium to full-bodied, complex but elegant and polished, blackberry, black currant and raspberry fruits, nuances of milk chocolate, cinnamon spice, hints of cedar and graphite pencil lead silky finely grained tannins on the smooth lingering finish., 

RM 94 points. 


Saturday, October 12, 2024

Diamond Mtn Napa Cab Duo for birthday celebration gathering

 Napa Cabernet Diamond Mtn Duo and aged Birthyear vintage for birthday celebration gathering

Son Sean and D-in-law Michelle hosted a gala family and friends gathering for grand-daughter Lavender’s third birthday. 

As we typically do when we get together for such occasions, Son Ryan and I coordinated our wine selections for a comparison tasting. Ryan took from his cellar a Diamond Mtn Napa Valley Cabernet, so, I took one from the same appellation for a comparison tasting. 

The kids were entertained with a bounce house, mini soccer nets and bags. 

Having just returned from DisneyLand, the young grand-daughters were enchanted by the princesses there and hence were delighted to be visited by Princess Cinderella for the occasion.   


Meanwhile, we enjoyed a comparison tasting of two wines from the Napa Valley Diamond Mountain appellation. While I can’t determine one way or the other, I am intrigued by the possibility that these two wines might be sourced from not only the same appellation, but perhaps the same vineyard, or nearby vineyards. 

Cliff Lede Diamond Mountain Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

This is one of Ryan’s favorite labels from the broad Cliff Lede portfolio of wines in his collection.  We have fun with this appellation since it shares the name wife/daughter-in-law Michelle, nee Diamond. 

Located at the north end of the Mayacamas Mountain range that borders the western edge forming Napa Valley, below the Napa/Sonoma border on the ridge, above the town of Calistoga, just north of St Helena, Diamond Mountain is one of the highest elevation AVAs in Napa. 

The unique terroir of the appellation is ideally suited for Bordeaux varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon with volcanic soils, extremely high-drainage that stresses the vines, forcing them deep into the earth in search of water. The elevation makes for increased sun exposure to allow Cabernet to ripen to full maturity, yielding the kind of intensely concentrated, thick-skinned clusters that make wines with power and longevity. 

Commenting on the vineyard source for this label, Winemaker Christopher Tynan wrote: "Our Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon is from an exceptional, low-yielding vineyard with volcanic ash soils in the Diamond Mountain appellation, nestled into the Mayacamas Range on the northwest side of Napa Valley. The sun-drenched mountain vineyard has northeastern exposure and late afternoon breezes that ripen the fruit slowly and evenly. Planted and farmed by David Abreu Vineyard Management, this extraordinary site of old vines planted on a steep incline with a historic Napa field selection produces an age-worthy Cabernet Sauvignon with dark fruit, intense structure, minerality and perfume.”

“A deep garnet-black in color, this distinctly pedigreed Cabernet offers a lovely array of brooding dark fruit flavors and scents. Fresh aromas of black currant, crushed blackberries, and warm plum soar with savory layers of Chinese hoisin, black olive tapenade, and dried tobacco. The long opulent palate tastes of liquefied minerals and possesses a voluptuous raspberry liqueur-like texture. With proper time in the decanter, distinctly complex Diamond Mountain aromas of old pine forest and cedar emerge and intertwine seamlessly with the luxurious flavors."

Initially tannic and closed in youth, over a decade in bottle has allowed this single vineyard Cabernet to integrate and open up, revealing layers of dark fruits and minerality and earthy complexity. 

Knowing Ryan was bringing this single vineyard designated label, I pulled from our cellar a limited production vintage release from the same appellation. 

I am intrigued by the possibility that these wines may have sourced from the same site, or locations in close proximity. They had very similar tasting characteristics and profiles, despite the fact they were a dozen years apart. 

Marco Di Giulio "Mark K Vineyard" Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2002

To compare in a side by side tasting, just like an earlier tasting last year which I featured in a blogpost, excerpted here, I brought this rare limited release Diamond Mountain vineyard private label from winemaker Marco Di Giulio. We hold a half dozen different labels of Marco Di Giulio releases from legendary vineyard sources, Mt Veeder Pym Rae, Progeny and this Diamond Mountain Mark K, all between 2001 and 2004 vintages, this 2002 being the oldest of this label. 

For a period of releases, Marco Di Giulio developed unique hand-crafted wines minimalist style wines available under the winemakers' label and branding in limited quantities. They could be found in the boutique and specialist wine shops in Napa Valley or in the 'after market' via wine auctions. They were classic vineyard expressions of terrior, that unique expression of each vineyard's distinctive character, produced in very small quantities of 200 to 300 cases. His approach to winemaking was minimalist, letting the vineyard and each vintage speak for itself. As he says, he wants to “taste” each vineyard.

Marco produced his wines at Bin to Bottle, a high quality custom crush facility for a number of small Napa Vintners in South Napa where he is a partner. 

As he wrote on his Marcowines website, Marco was born and raised in San Francisco, California, shortly after his parents had emigrated from Tuscany and become successful Bay Area restaurateurs. Along with wonderful Italian meals, wine was an everyday part of their North Beach household life. As a result, Marco inherited his family's appreciation for great wine and food.

Marco developed an in-depth knowledge of winemaking and viticulture through education and experience in the industry. He graduated with a degree in Fermentation Science from the University of California at Davis in 1985.

After two years at Buena Vista Winery, Marco worked as cellar master at Pine Ridge Winery for more than four years. His next stint was as the production manager for Atlas Peak Vineyards, followed by his 1994 appointment as winemaker for Pezzi King Vineyards. Just before the 1995 harvest, he became the winemaker at Pepi Winery in Oakville. 

While making Pepi Wines, he also took charge of the Lokoya brand after the death of celebrated winemaker and mentor Greg Upton. It was at Lokoya that Marco's reputation for making world class Cabernet Sauvignon was first established.

Marco release his own label wines between 2001 and 2004. Today, Marco serves as consulting winemaker to many top labels and devotes attention to his personal projects:  Vintage Wine EstatesBin to BottleLookout Ridge and Marco DiGiulio Wines where he strives to produce wines that reflect the rugged landscapes of the vineyard sources.   

Marco Di Giulio "Mark K Vineyard" Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2002

Marco Di Giulio obtained the fruit for this label from Norm Kiken Cabernet Sauvignon from his
Diamond Mountain Mark K Vineyard. Marco began working with the Kiken vineyards when he was the winemaker for Lokoya. Norm Kiken became renowned for his Reverie wines and collaborated with Diguilio in sharing a few tons of Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Mr. Kiken (pronounced KICK-en) bought 40 acres on Diamond Mountain ioutside Calistoga, for $1.4 million and built himself a home and a winery, called Reverie. 

The Reverie vineyards and winery were located in a unique valley on Diamond Mountain in Napa Valley, once known as the Bonsell Property that became now divided between the iconicDiamond Creek Winery, and the former Von Strasser Winery and Reverie.

Reverie Winery specialized in producing ultra premium Bordeaux varietal blends that reflect the uniqueness of its terroir. The vineyard was principally planted in 1989 to Cabernet Sauvignon
(2 clones on 14 acres); Cabernet Franc (6 acres); Merlot (2 clones on 6 acres) and small amounts of Petit Verdot, Malbec, Barbera, Tempranillo, Grenache and Roussanne. 

For this wine, grapes were sourced from the Reverie Vineyard next to Diamond Creek and the former Von Strasser higher up on Diamond Mountain just south of Calistoga in Napa Valley. 

The 2001 vintage was a classic example of what Diamond Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon appellation has to offer.  The aromas that jump out of the glass are pure Diamond Mountain District with loads of cherry cough drop and black cherry fruit.  The oak adds layers of spice and a warm vanilla character. 

Giulio wrote of this release, "On the palate, the wine exhibits exceptional balance and nuanced character while still being big enough to handle anything you put it up against.  As in the nose, black cherry is the predominant fruit.  The mouthfeel is silky smooth and rich and the finish seems to go on forever.  Layers of brown spices and red fruits show themselves as the wine opens up in the glass."

On release, Di Giulio wrote of this wine, my sense is that with proper cellaring, this wine could easily continue to improve for another 8 to 12 years.

It took ninety minutes to open and reveal its true character. This was similar profile to the Lede but not as dark, rich or concentrated. There was still life left in this twenty year old, showing no signs of diminution from age.

Garnet colored, medium full bodied, black berry and black raspberry fruits with notes of cassis, black tea and hints of clove spice, oak and vanilla bean with smooth polished tannins on a lingering nicely balanced acidic finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=302285

I featured Marco Digulio wines in more detail in earlier blogposts in these pages - https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/06/marco-di-guilio-pym-rae-vineyard-mt.html.

To commemorate the family occasion and gathering, I also brought from our cellar an aged Napa Cabernet from Sean’s birth year vintage. 

Spring Mountain Vineyards Spring Mountain District Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1985

Over the years I collected birth year vintage releases for each of our kids, and then most recently, for our grandkids. The kids’ birth year wines are past their prime drinking windows and need to be consumed as they’re at risk of being beyond approachable drinking. At these late stages, presenting these vintage releases and trying them is a novelty and serendipitous. We nearing the end of these vintage selections. 

My CellarTracker records indicate I acquired two bottles of this release from Auction at WineBid back in 2009. 

At nearly forty years, it’s remarkable that this wine still had any life left and was approachable for tasting. The label, foil, and most importantly and relevant, the fill level and cork were still in ideal condition, a testament to the conditions in our cellar for aging appropriate wines. 

Remarkably, the producer still shows this wine in their library collection available for purchase by wine club members. 

Their notes on this label vintage release. “This long lived Cabernet Sauvignon exudes aromas of leather, maple syrup, cherry compote, dried cranberries, smoke and forest floor. The wine presents a soft approach with a solid mouth feel. The flavors on the palate mirror its aromas of dried cranberry, cherry, plum, smoke, leather and mineral.”

This wine was 100%  Caberent Sauvignon, Estate Grown & Bottled at the property high up Spring Mountain District in Napa Valley. It was aged 22 months in new French oak.

Winemaker’s Comments - “1985 was a long, warm growing season and the wines from this vintage show ripe aromas and flavors. This wine is no exception. There are sweet ripe plum aromas with loads of spice and layers of dry flowers, caramel and cocoa. The entry is full and polished, the flavors echoing the aromatic promise of dried fruits, spices and vanilla. A bit like a rum-raisin cake in a glass. The acid keeps the wine alive, though I would recommend drinking this wine in the near future and keep in mind the possibility of bottle variation with a wine of this maturity. The cork was easily extracted and in excellent shape. This is a mature Napa Valley Cabernet and will benefit from a bit of aeration.”

Additional Notes - “The grapes for this long-lived Cabernet came primarily from the Wild Horse Estate vineyard in Oakville. A small percentage of fruit came from the young Miravalle vineyard which surrounds the Villa Miravalle that is showcased on the label. The 1985 vintage had a stellar growing season that produced ripe, rich and fleshy wines with superb balance. Bud break came early and the dry, cool weather resulted in a long harvest wth even ripening - ideal weather conditions for a great vintage.”

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, the plum fruit flavors still holding on were giving way to notes of black tea, leather, earth and the remains of accents of spice, tobacco with moderate tannins.