A visit to Château Branaire-Ducru

A visit to Château Branaire-Ducru St Julien Beychevelle Bordeaux

During our trip to the St-Julien Bordeaux appellation we visited Château Branaire-Ducru which lies just across the D2 Route du Medoc from Château Beychevelle on the southern edge of the St-Julien appellation on the outskirts of the village St Julien Beychevelle.

Branaire Ducru vineyards - Chateau Beychevelle in distance

Our visit and tour of the historic estate was another one of the key visits on our trip to the St Julien Appellation (AOC) in Bordeaux, Château Branaire-Ducru was one of ten Quatrièmes Crus (Fourth Growths) in the historic Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855.

Like Léoville du Marquis de Las Cases, Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, Gruaud Larose, Léoville-Poyferré, and adjacent Château Beychevelle, the other St Julien producers that we also visited, we hold or have consumed a selection of Château Branaire-Ducru dating back several decades to the early eighties. 

Château Branaire-Ducru was originally part of the greater estate that comprised Chateau Beychevelle and adjacent Ducru Beaucaillou. It became a separate vineyard from the Beychevelle estate after the death of Bernard de la Valette, Duke of Epernon, in the mid 17th century, when his assets were turned over to the French Crown to pay off his debts.

In 1680, Jean-Baptiste Braneyre bought the property from the Duc d’Epernon’s vast Beychevelle estate, which had been broken up on his death in 1642. His descendant, Marie Braneyre married Pierre Du Luc, and the property becomes known as Branaire Duluc.

The first winery was established in a small house that Marie de Chillaud, granddaughter of Marie and Pierre Braneyre, bought in Bourdieu, a hamlet close to Château Beychevelle. The oldest parts of the building date back to 1730.

Marie de Chillaud’s children of the Duluc family had the current Château built around 1824. It consisted of a country manor house and an orangerie in the directoire style designed by architects Rieutord and Laciotte. The chateau was expanded further in 1836. The estate was eventually sold to a relative, Gustave Ducru.

Historic Chateau Branaire Ducru

Branaire-Ducru orangerie

In 1855 it was classified as a fourth growth under the name Branaire Duluc.  Ducru, a distant relative of the Duluc family, added his name to the brand and label, and it become Château Branaire-Ducru which has remained to this day.

In 1879, Gustave died and the estate was passed to his sister, the Countessa Duluc. In 1899, the château was bequeathed to three nephews, the Marquis de Carbonnier de Marzac, Comte Ravez and Comte du Perrier de Larsan. Their aunt, the Countessa, and the three nephews are represented today by the four crowns on the Branaire-Ducru logo and label.

In 1919, Branaire was taken over by Jean-Michel Tapie who held the property until the Tari-Tapie family sold out to Patrick Maroteaux in 1988.

Patrick Maroteaux bought Branaire Ducru in 1988 from the Tapie family who owned Chateau Branaire Ducru since 1919. Prior to his arrival at Branaire Ducru, he had no prior experience in the wine business coming from a background in banking and as the president of the massive sugar company, Eurosucre. Patrick Maroteaux served as the President of the UGCB, Union of Grand Crus Bordeaux, and as the President of the Saint Julien appellation. 

We met Patrick’s son, François Xavier Maroteaux (shown above from the 2017 tour) several times at the  UGCB Annual Release Tour Tastings in Chicago. He followed in his father’s footsteps and took over the full-time responsibilities of managing the property after his passing in 2017.

We've had the pleasure of meeting Mr Maroteaux during his travels with the UGCB to America - (UGC Bordeaux' (Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB)), promoting their wines. We have served several St Julien producers' wines during the annual release tour over the years standing in for producers who could not attend or who were disrupted by winter weather travel disruptions. 

Branaire Ducru modern chai production facility

The French family group lead by chairman Patrick Maroteaux has invested heavily in upgrading and renovating the estate. They have planted new vineyards, built a new cuvier and ultra-modern chai and upgraded the technical operations. 

As part of efforts to upgrade the brand and quality of the grand vin flagship label, they added a second label wine, Duluc de Branaire-Ducru. Duluc is produced from the youngest vines and fruit not considered suitable for the grand vin. Like other producers across the region, the second label provides consumers earlier drinking gratification at a more affordable price point, all the while improving the value of the flagship signature label by selecting only the finest lots for the grand vin. All these efforts have resulted in improving the reputation and standing of Château Branaire-Ducru as one of the elite Bordeaux wines - classified and recognized as a Grand Cru Classe.

Branaire-Ducru has nearly 150 acres of vineyards planted with the St Julien appellation sanctioned varietals, Cabernet Sauvignon (70%), Merlot (22%), Cabernet Franc (5%), Petit Verdot (3%).

The vineyards of Branaire Ducru are composed of the legendary gravelly soil of the St Julien appellation.  Although the estate is located on the southern border of the appellation, across from Château Beychevelle, several of the the vineyards are spread across the Saint-Julien appellation.

Branaire Ducru vineyards gravelly soil -
St Julien Beychevelle village in distance

The wines are matured in oak barriques (65% new). The proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend can be higher than that in the vineyards - 80-85% in some years, which is one of the highest in the Médoc.

The average age of the vineyard is 35 years and they are harvested by hand.

The wine is made in the most practical method that is least disturbing to the grapes using gravity rather than pumps to move and circulate the harvested fruit and the wine. The new viticulture building has a wide range of tanks of different sizes that can be matched to the different batches based on careful selection based on the varying characteristics of the different vineyard plots. The wines are aged traditionally in barrels made from French oak. They are always fined with fresh egg whites.

The winemaking occurs in 28 stainless temperature controlled steel tanks whose size is matched to vineyard plot size, 60hl to 230hl. Blending of the batches occurs early in the year, before the end of February following the harvest.  The wines go through primary fermentation for about three weeks in the temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. About 1/3 of the production undergoes malolactic fermentation in new oak barrels. Once fermentation is complete the wines are transferred into oak barrels (50% new oak) for 18–24 months of aging.

The grand vin Château Branaire Ducru averages about 15,000 cases per year. The estate also produces about 7,000 cases of its second wine, Duluc de Branaire-Ducru.

 

Branaire-Ducru and Duluc de Branaire-Ducru wines are characteristically complex and have long ageing potential. They are best consumed five to eight years after release but can often age for several decades depending on the vintage. Every effort is made to bring out the purity of the fruit and reflect the terrior of the vineyards.

Branaire-Ducru typifies classic St Julien terroir characteristics - nicely structured, elegantly balanced - bright vibrant fruits accented by notes of cassis, mocha, minerals and floral with approachable tannins on a lingering finish.

The 2012 vintage release we were served in our tasting was rated 93-95 points by Wine Enthusiast and 90-93 points by Wine Spectator.

Branaire Ducru tank facility and production operations center.

Our hostess Cindy, a longtime member of the staff conducted our tour. She did a creative and imaginative job showing videos that she produced on her IPAD of the harvest, the grape selection and sorting, the vinification in the tanks, filling and racking the barrels, and bottling processes.

She took us through the chai, vinification building, the barrel aging room and then hosted us in the tasting room overlooking the production facility. She served us a recent vintage of both the flagship Château Branaire-Ducru from the 2012 vintage, and the second label Duluc de Branaire-Ducru from the 2014 vintage.

While Patrick Maroteaux have improved the quality of the wines, they have maintained the price point such that Branaire Ducru represents good value compared to some of the other higher priced St Julien labels. This is especially true in top rated excellent vintages where 'all boats rise with the tide' and have high quality product resulting from a great vintage. Look for Branaire Ducru for good QPR, (Quality Price Ratio) in a Grand Cru Classe Left Bank Bordeaux.

A Visit to Château Beychevelle

A Visit to Château Beychevelle St Julien-Beychevelle Bordeaux

Visitors to the Médoc driving up the historic and legendary D2 Route du Médoc, the arterial wine road up the Left Bank of the Gironde River estuary, come upon the magnificent Château Beychevelle as they enter the St Julien Appellation, and the village of St Julien-Beychevelle. It is considered one of the most impressive châteaux in the whole of the Médoc.

Our visit and tour of the historic estate was another one of the key visits on our trip to the St Julien Appellation (AOC) in Bordeaux.  Château Beychevelle is one of ten Quatrièmes Crus (Fourth Growths) in the historic Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855.

Our spectacular week in St Julien also included visits to our other favorite St Julien producers, Second Growths Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou,  Léoville du Marquis de Las Cases,  Gruaud Larose and Léoville-Poyferré, as well as Fourth Growths Château Beychevelle and Château Branaire-Ducru. 

A tour of Beychevelle begins with a step back in history in a audio video enhanced gallery that goes back five centuries to the founding of the historic estate. Highlighted by graphics, music and historic photographics, it begins back in the reign of Henri III with the story Admiral Beychevelle, the fief of the Dukes of Épernon, the first of that name, Jean-Louis Nogaret de La Valette, who was the admiral in the French navy.

In the earliest years, the property was owned by the Foix Candale family who were well established in Bordeaux by 1446, as they already possessed Château d'Issan in Margaux. In 1565, Bishop François de Foix Candale commissioned the building of the grand chateau at Beychevelle.

Château Beychevelle, due to its classic, stunning architecture of the chateau and beautiful gardens, is often referred to as the Bordeaux version of Versailles.

Eventually, Beychevelle became the property of the Dukes of Epernon. The Duke was a powerful important leader of the French navy. He was so revered that ships sailing in front of Beychevelle were ordered to lower their sails as a sign of respect. Such was how Beychevelle acquired its name since the expression "Baisse-Vaille", meaning "lower the sails", translated into Beychevelle, when translated from the dialect of the time.

The name Beychevelle comes from the Old French Baisse-Voile, meaning “lowered sails”. The lowered sails of the ancient ship serves as the château’s iconic emblem and is the cornerstone of their branding to this day. The logo depicts a ship with a griffin – the guardian of Dionysos’ wine crater in Greek mythology – on the prow.

Beychevelle, or Baisse Voile, 'lower the sails', is memorialized in today's branding, the logo and label design of a galleon of the era with a large sail.

The earliest period of the estate being a working Bordeaux vineyard, it was owned by the  Bergeron family from 1720. In its earliest days it consisted of the current property as well as the adjacent properties that today make up Château Ducru Beaucaillou and Branaire Ducru.  

Map courtesy UGCB - Union des Grand Crus Bordeaux

Beychevelle was sold, bought and sold several times over the years, often due to the enormous cost to maintain the Saint Julien estate. Over time, the Beychevelle estate deteriorated from insufficient upkeep and neglect, until 1757, when the Marquis François-Etienne de Brassier renovated and rebuilt the estate. 

The property was split up in the years following the French Revolution in the early 19th Century.

In 1825, Beychevelle was bought by Pierre-François Guestier, a popular Bordeaux wine merchant who was also the mayor of St. Julien. The Guestier family joined forces with the Barton family, owners of neighboring Leoville Barton, and formed the Bordeaux wine negociant company Barton and Guestier, also known as B & G. that is still in business to this day.

In 1875, Armand Heine, cousin of the famous German poet, Heinrich Heine, purchased Château Beychevelle. He added the north wing of the chateau and replanted the vineyard following the phylloxera epidemic. Château Beychevelle remained in the hands of the same family for several generations into the 20th Century.

In 1970, Aymar Achille-Fould took over Château Beychevelle. In 1984 they formed a partnership with the GMF group. In 1988 the partnership was expanded with the addition of the Japanese giant Suntory, one of the oldest distilling companies in Japan dating back to 1899. In 2014, Suntory acquired iconic America distiller Jim Beam to become one of the largest distilling companies in the world. Since 1997, they are Japan's sole bottler, distributor, and licensee of Pepsi products and have since taken over Pepsi in other countries of southeast Asia. When they invested in Beychevelle, Suntory were already familiar with Bordeaux as owners of the neighboring estate, Château Lagrange.

In February, 2011, Chateau Beychevelle took on new owners when Suntory along with Pierre Castel, the head of the massive company Castel Freres, purchased the Saint Julien estate.

Philippe Blanc was brought as the managing director in 1995.

In addition to Château Beychevelle, the partnership also owns the well known Bordeaux negociant companies Barriere Freres and Oenoalliance, numerous branded wines, and Château Beaumont in the Haut Medoc appellation. They also hold investments in Burgundy, Africa and in China with Changyu-Castel. Today the property is owned by Grands Millésimesde France.

Despite being divided and subdivided over the years, the overall Beychevelle estate covers over 600 acres of land. Only that most suitable for growing grapes is planted in vineyards, the rest, mostly that down near the river, is grassland where Limousin cows graze, and forests of pine, poplar, ash and walnut trees.

The vast property extends down to the river where there was at one time a dock, and still today, a park. The turnoff of the D2 at the estate leads to the entrance to the production facilities, office and hospitality center, and continues down to the riverfront at what is called the Port de Beychevelle.

Below the vineyards are farmland and pastures -
Château Beyechevelle in distant background.

The Beychevelle estate's 210 acres of vineyards are located at the far south edge of the St-Julien appellation, just outside the village of St-Julien-Beychevelle. The vineyards are planted in the appellation sanctioned varietals of  Cabernet Sauvignon, (52%), Merlot, (40%), Cabernet Franc (5%), and Petit Verdot (3%).

The proximity of the Gironde, which can be seen from the front steps of the Château, has a protective, regulating affect on the climate that is vital for the production of exceptional wines.

On average, the vines are close to 30 years of age.

The heart of the vineyard is located on two plateaus. The best vines are said to be the 50 acres planted next to the chateau on the Beychevelle plateau, next to Château Ducru Beaucaillou, and extending down towards the river, and those down near Château Leoville Barton.

Vineyards on the plateau Beychevelle on the left,
Ducru Beaucaillou on the right

The vineyards near the river are comprised of the notable St Julien deep Garonne gravelly soil, deposited over the millennia from the Gunzian period, on the edge of the Gironde. These are the famous gravelly hilltops of the Médoc, close to the Gironde, which offer the best conditions for the classic Bordeaux varietals. They benefit from the moderating effects the river has on the vines, helping to protect them from excessive heat and from the occasional frost.

Like so many of the producer's vineyards in the Medoc, several of Château Beychevelle's vineyards are dispersed across the Saint Julien appellation.

Beyechevelle also have vineyards in the southern tip of the St. Julien appellation located further inland, not far from Château Gruaud Larose.

The estate also owns 55 acres of vines located in the neighboring Haut Medoc appellation that are considered part of the Saint Julien appellation. The vineyard is situated in the commune of Cussac, not far from Château Beaumont. There it is much cooler terrior than in the St. Julien appellation.

Due to the fact that those vines were part of Château Beychevelle at the time of the original classification, even though they are located in the neighboring appellation of Haut Medoc, the estate has the right to include those vines in either their Grand Vin, the second wine, or use them to produce a Haut Medoc wine. Another additional 35 acres of vines in the Haut Medoc are not allowed for use in St. Julien designated wines.

In all there are 14 different blocks of vines, that can be divided into up to 60 different parcels of vines.

In recent years, Château Beychevelle have worked to dramatically improve the quality of the wine through a massive reduction in the effective yields at the property. Earlier vintages such as 1982 were produced with almost no selection. Then, as much as 95% of the harvest went into the Grand Vin.

Today, much greater selection takes place to use only the finest lots in the grand vin, and the rest in a second or lesser label. Now, the average amount of the harvest going into the flagship Beychevelle is closer to 50%.

Starting in 2008, Château Beychevelle began moving closer to organic farming techniques. The estate has been certified for sustainable viticulture.

Beyechevelle took on a new winemaker to assist Philippe Blanc, Romain Ducolomb, who previously worked at Château Clinet in Pomerol. The first vintage for Ducolomb was the 2012, which showed soft tannins and more ripeness.

In 2016, the new partnership made a substantial investment of more than 15 million Euros in the St Julien estate. They completely renovated the wine making facilities remodeling the cellars, vat rooms, tanks and building the hospitality visitor center.

The hallmark of the new Beychevelle was the addition of a large modern high tech production facility with new tanks and a barrel storage facility below. Designed by the noted architect Arnaud Boulain and Atelier BPM, the modernistic building is comprised of glass walls that opens the large tank room to the outside, and bring striking views of the surrounding vineyards inside.

Undulating steel metal bands resembling sails decorate the outside of the building and protect the glass building from the direct sunlight. The sails architectural design elements are also introduced in the modern barrel facility in the waving ceiling, pictured below.

The modern high tech building sits prominently at the front of the property adjacent the historic chateau along the D2 Route de Medoc.

The wine of Château Beychevelle is vinified in 59, gleaming new, stainless steel vats that range in size from 73 hectoliters to 105, 120 and up to 160 hectoliters. This provides for a vat for each plot of the estate to optimize the vinification to each lot. Malolactic fermentation takes place in tank.

Like many of the Château in Bordeaux, and many leading wineries in Napa as well, Beychevelle has introduced artwork throughout their facilities to enhance the atmosphere and the tour experience.

The historic original cellars were renovated and are adorned with artwork. Below the historic barrel storage facilities, Beychevelle maintains a historic library of vintage releases. The collection dates back to the mid 19th century.

Historic barrel facility

Historic library

Depending on the vintage, a portion of the malolactic can take place in barrel. The wine of Château Beychevelle is aged in an average of 50-60% new, French oak barrels for about 18 months before bottling.

Modern barrel facility with sailing architecture effects

Château Beychevelle St Julien grand vin, in good vintages can be powerful and concentrated, yet supple and smooth with complex and finely integrated notes of almost sweet, ultra-ripe Cabernet fruit, accented by notes of cassis, spice, tobacco, cedar and mocha.

Beychevelle's hospitality center features a modern tasting room overlooking the magnificent historic Château and it's beautiful gardens that look out to the vineyards and the pastures and river in the distance.

 

We were served a vertical tasting flight of Château Beychevelle 2012, 2016 and, a special treat, a barrel sample of the upcoming 2018 vintage.

Young vintages are best to be decanted for a couple hours before consuming to allow the wine to soften and open its perfume. Older vintages might need very little decanting, just enough to remove the sediment.

Château Beychevelle is best consumed after 6-12 years of age, and, depending on the vintage can often maintain its prime drinking window for several decades or more. We still hold the last remaining bottles of a case of 1988 that we acquired upon release. Upon return from our trip we enjoyed one of those bottles and it is drinking as good or even better than in its first decade. 

The chateau makes a second label wine called Amiral de Beychevelle. This is produced from the lots that are not deemed suitable for the flagship label. This provides a wine that is approachable at an earlier age at a more affordable price.

We were also served a tasting of the second label, Amiral de Beychevelle from the 2012 vintage.

The second wine, Amiral de Beychevelle, was first released back in the 1950’s. In those days, as little as 4% of the production went into the second wine. In 1996, then general manager Philippe Blanc directed to vastly increase production of and increase the percentage of the harvest allocated to the second wine.

Amiral de Beychevelle is made from the younger vines, but still benefits from the same growing techniques, meticulous sorting, and traditional barrel ageing. It can have the same elegance and finesse as its older brother, but reveals its character earlier in its youth. It can be kept for up to fifteen years, depending on the vintage.

Beychevelle also produce a third label, Les Brulieres de Beychevelle, comprised of the fruit from the vines in the Haut Medoc appellation. Chateau Beychevelle also produces a negociant wine in partnership with their negociant owner, Barriere called Secret de Grand Bateaux. This is sold as a mass market supermarket brand. Secret de Grand Bateaux also displays the estate’s famed Dragon boat logo in their label design for brand continuity. The wine is available as a red wine and white Bordeaux wine.

There is high demand of Beychevelle wines, especially in Asia where it is known as 'the Dragon Boat wine'. Due to significant counterfeiting that takes place in China, Chateau Beychevelle has recently added anti counterfeiting measures to their bottles. The technique adds a unique code to each bottle that is stored in a database that allows purchasers and sellers to check for the authenticity of each bottle along with the name of the original, authorized distributor.

Today, Château Beychevelle produces on average about 25,000 cases per year.

As with all producers in the Medoc, as I often say, as 'all boats rise with the tide', the best vintages of Château Beychevelle are those best vintages in the appellation. Top vintages have been 2018, 2017, 2016, 2015, 2014, 2012, 2010, 2009, 2005, 2000, 1989, 1982 and 1961. Notably, several older vintages of Château Beychevelle, dating back to 1906 have been exceptional wines.

Shortly after our return home, we enjoyed a thirty year of vintage release of Château Beychevelle 1988 and it was drinking remarkably well. 

www.beychevelle.com

https://beychevelle.com/?lang=en

Whitehall Lane Cellars Winery Visit and Tasting

Whitehall Lane Cellars Rutherford Winery Visit and Tasting

We hold Whitehall Lane Napa Valley wines dating back to the turn of the century - Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, Estate and Reserve. We've passed by the Estate and Winery on St Helena Highway in Rutherford dozens of times during our trips to Napa Valley so this trip we decided to visit there during our Napa Valley Wine Experience 2018.

 

We try to support the family owned and operated producers and Whitehall Lane has been such since Tom Leonardini acquired Whitehall Lane Winery in March of 1993 and has been a hands on active proprietor every since with his wife and their five children. Tom was joined by son Tom Leonardini II in 1994. Tom had the Estate vineyard replanted and bought four additional vineyards including the Leonardini Vineyard. Tom II is responsible for distribution and has been instrumental in increasing sales from 15,000 cases to almost 50,000 cases today. Sister, Katie Leonardini oversees direct sales and hospitality at the winery after college and a career in the financial services industry. They are joined by eldest sibling Kristin who opened the Napa Valley Winery Exchange, a premiere retail wine shop in San Francisco. She assists Katie in public relation and hospitality events at the winery.

Whitehall Lane wines have been recognized in Wine Spectator Magazine's year-end ranking of wines, having been honored an unprecedented three times in five years for producing wines rated among the top five in the world. The winery has also been voted Winery of the Year from the Quarterly Review of Wines and Wine and Spirits Magazine.

The estate and winery in Napa Valley's historic Rutherford appellation consists of approximately 140 acres in seven prime vineyards that include the Whitehall Lane Estate Vineyard, Millenium MM Vineyard and Bommarito Vineyard in the Rutherford Appellation, the Leonardini Vineyard and Fawn Park Vineyard in St. Helena, Oak Glen Vineyard in the Oak Knoll District and Rassi Vineyard in Sonoma.

The flagship and main Estate Vineyard at adjacent to the winery is 25 acres of "Rutherford Dust" and is planted in Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc grapes. The Millenium MM Vineyard is Cabernet Sauvignon fruit while the Bommarito Vineyard is planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. The Leonardini Vineyard is 14 acres of gravely soil yielding powerful Cabernet Sauvignon fruit and elegant yet intense Merlot grapes that go into the "Leonardini Vineyard" vineyard-designated wine. The Fawn Park Vineyard is on a gentle slope of Eastern hillside and produces intense Cabernet Sauvignon. The 25-acre Oak Glen Vineyard produces flavorful Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes.

We wanted to focus on Estate and Vineyard Designated Select wines so we had a private estate tasting. This also allowed us to taste some of their limited release vineyard designated select wines as well as some of their flagship signature wines.

The Tasting Flight:

Pre-tasting:
Whitehall Lane Napa Valley Rutherford Sauvignon Blanc 2016
Whitehall Lane Napa Valley Chardonnay 2016
Private tasting, shown left:
Whitehall Lane Las Brisas Carneros Vineyard Pinot Noir 2016
Whitehall Lane Napa Valley Merlot 2014
Whitehall Lane Mancino Lanciatore Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Whitehall Lane Napa Valley Syrah 2014
Whitehall Lane Napa Valley Petit Verdot 2014



Wineflight labels:

 

https://whitehalllane.com/

Scenes from Whitehall Lane Estate Winery and Vineyards, Rutherford

Whitehall Lane tasting room

Whitehall Lane Barrel Room