Showing posts with label Chicago. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chicago. Show all posts

Thursday, March 20, 2025

Sepia Curated Wine Pairing Dinner

Sepia Curated Wine Pairing Dinner 

Celebrating a recent real estate transaction, we dined with our broker/advisor/agents at Michelin Star Sepia Restaurant in the trendy West (of) Loop district of Chicago

We dined there last summer for a spectacular wine and dinner experience that was featured in these pages in this blogpost - Sepia Michelin Star Restaurant Chicago. 

Despite their Wine Spectator Best Award wine list, we opted for the wine pairing with the price fixe dinner in which the chef and wine director pair a wine with each dinner course. This allows one to not only taste numerous wines with dinner, but also to experience both the Chef’s, and Wine Director Somellier’s interpretation of the applicable wine pairings with each food course of the dinner. 

The Sepia Wine List is extraordinarily broad, 36 pages in all, with diverse range of selections from the usual old world and new world regions as well as selections from lesser producers such as Austria, Croatia, Lebanon, Greece, Armenia, Mexico and Morocco. 

As a refresher we had Champagne as a starter wine - 

Telmont Reserve Brut 2020

This is a blend of 35%, Chardonnay, 36% Muniere and 26% Pinot Noir.

From the first course, we selected from the price fixe menu each of the offerings available: 

  • Smoked beef carpaccio, sweet mustard, sourdough, and onion consomme’,
  • leek & popcorn veloute, délice de bourgogne, black truffle, brioche, and the 
  • hiramasa crudo, blood orange ponzu, cumquat, cilantro,
  • king crab & sea urchin, koshihikari, gochujang consommé, sesame.


leek & popcorn veloute, délice de bourgogne, black truffle, brioche

hiramasa crudo, apple-yuzu ponzu, lime leaf, fingerlime - this was delicious, especially the caviar highlight …


king crab & sea urchin, koshihikari, gochujang consommé, sesame


Smoked beef carpaccio,
sweet mustard, sourdough, and onion consomme’



The first course dishes were paired two different sweet dessert aperitifs - Roûmieu-Lacoste Sauternes and Travignoli Vin Santo del Chianti Rùfina, and Fabbricca Newton Rosso Toscana

Château Roûmieu-Lacoste Sauternes Haut Barzac 2022

A classic Sauternes that has been in the same family for six generations on the mother’s side of producer Hervé Dubourdieu dating back to 1890. He who also owns highly acclaimed and well known Château Graville-Lacoste and Château Ducasse. 

Roûmieu-Lacoste is in the climat of Haut Barsac, an area famous robust, powerfully styled moelleux with pronounced acidity. The vineyards are just across the road from First Growth Château Climens on a similar soil: calcareous clay on fissured rock, peppered with red iron, white limestone, and grey flint gravel. 

Hervé produces a portfolio of red and white wines with the whites being blends a high proportion of Sémillon (60%) and a splash of Muscadelle (5%) with Sauvignon Blanc (35%), creating a rich, full, aromatic mid-palate to complement the clean finish. 

Known for his charm and modest disposition, complemented by his focus and ferocious perfectionism, he is dedicated to his vineyards in the Sauternes and Graves appellations. 

A meticulous perfectionist, Hervé employs the best harvesters available, paying them double the average wage to discern between the “noble rot,” necessary to concentrate the sugars for Sauternes, and deleterious rot. Hervé is so fastidious that he will get rid of a whole basket of fruit if a single grape with the harmful rot makes it in with healthy ones to be absolutely sure to avoid even the slightest contamination. 

He sells his wines through renowned distributor Kermit Lynch,  selling them the lion’s share of his production so he can focus on the vineyards, thereby producing highest quality wine at an uncharacteristic low price.

Golden amber colored, full bodied, deeply complex, thick unctuous decadent sweetness of honey, apricot, passion fruit and lemon zest with silky smooth texture and a long and lingering finish with refreshing acidity.

RM 92 points. 

https://vignobles-hervedubourdieu.com/

The other first course wines ….

Travignoli Vin Santo del Chianti Rùfina 2015

This is another dessert wine from Villa Travignoli which is situated in the northeastern part of the Chianti region, 25 kilometers east of Florence at the meeting of the Arno and Sieve rivers. 

Travignoli, a name which means “Tra Vignoli” (between the vineyards) is located in the middle of Frescobaldi’s Nipozzano Vineyard, in the Chianti Rufina region, The site has a southern exposure, calcareous soils and an altitude ranging from 250 to 400 meters above sea level. 

Wine production at Travignoli dates all the way back to 500 BC by the Etruscans who referred to the area wines as the “Nectar of the Gods.”

The estate was acquired by Count Busi and his family in the 1800’s. They cultivate 70 hectares of the 90-hectare estate, primarily focusing on Sangiovese but also including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay. The family sold almost all of its production to private clients in demijohns until Giovanni Busi graduated from the oenology school of Conegliano in 1979. With the expert consultation of Giacomo Tachis, one of the most respected enologists in Italy, Giovanni began bottling the wine under the estate branding of Villa Travignoli.

This is sourced from the the hills of Pelago in the Chianti Rufina D.O.C.G. area in the Arno valley east of Florence. The south facing hilly terrain sits at 250 to 350 m above sea level and has a soil composition of marly, calcareous clay.

This vintage release of this dessert wines is a blend of Malvasia (70%) and Trebbiano (30%). Vinification process leaves the grapes to dry naturally after harvest on wattle shelves for four to five months before being pressed and then fermented in wooden kegs. They are then matured five years in barriques and then in bottles. 
Only 2000 bottles made. 

The producer cites an ageing potential for this wine at 30/40 years.

Travignoli Rufina
 shows a subtle fruitiness against a strong tannin-acid backbone even when fairly young. Travignoli Riservas do not lack any of the structure or power one would expect, but they also express a pleasant honesty of fruit.

Golden amber colour, full bodied, thick and unctuous apricot fruit with nones of raisins, honey, caramel and walnuts with smooth acidity on a long finish.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?5319245


Fabbrica Newton Rosso Toscana IGT 2020

The smoked beef carpaccio was paired with this red Rosso Toscana (Tuscany) from Siena in Tuscany which is known for its Sangiovese varietal wines. Fabbrica has been producing a broad portfolio of wines since it was founded in 2013, a relative newcomer in for an ‘old world’ producer.

This is 100% Sangiovese sourced from estate vineyards in the Pienza, Val d’Orcia in eastern Tuscany where the soils and climates are more aligned with that of the Rhone Valley. The hilly part of the village of Pienza recalls those of the southern Rhone while the soils there are a reminder of the northern Rhone. 

This Fabbrica label is pressed and foot crushed, wild yeast fermentation, whole-cluster, long maceration in concrete tanks, then aged 15 months in concrete. Concrete is the special ingredient, with its somewhat porous nature that allows breathing of the wine without imparting notes from typical wood barrels. 

Ruby colored, medium bodied, round full fruit forward blackberry, raspberry and cranberry fruits with notes of dried figs, vanilla, allspice, caramel, floral, butterscotch, hints of spearmint and pine. 

RM 88 points. 

For the second course we elected these entree selections: 
  • bbq’d sablefish, cabbage, carolina bb’q, smoked apple cider butter, and the 
  • crispy creamcheese gnudi, celery root, belper knolle, salted black pepper
  • grilled lobster chawanmushi, potato fennel, boullibase  

bbq’d sablefish, cabbage, carolina bb’q, smoked apple cider butter


This was delicious, especially when the sumptuous sauce was added …

 

crispy creamcheese gnudi, celery root, belper knolle, salted black pepper


grilled lobster chawanmushi, potato fennel, boullibase


The wine accompaniments for this course were …

Malat "Hohlgraben" Palt Kremstal Grüner Veltliner 2021

The bbq’d sablefish was delicious, exceeding my expectations and was nicely accompanied by this straightforward white wine. 

This is from the estate of Gerald Malat located near Krems, in Palt, between the southern bank of the Danube and the Gottweiger Mountain. It is in the Kremstal wine growing appellation (DAC), one of the most recent DAC’s to be added in Austria. 

Founded in 2007, just east of the Wachau, the appellation is divided into three significant zones. The most western part of the valley, near Stein, is primarily rocky soils, ideal for the elegant, yet intense, Riesling varietal. 

Moving east towards the historic town of Krems, deep loess soils cover the vineyards yielding Grüner Veltliner that is expressive, highly aromatic and fresh. 

The third zone, the source of this label, Kremstal. Is located on the southern banks of the Danube River, where some of the most pleasant wine villages are found. The deep valley is protected by the northern cool winds, though the warm Pannonian winds from the east still persist, resulting in a riper style wine.

The estate is comprised of seven different vineyards, each slightly distinct and different from the others. The Hohlgraben vineyard lies at the foot of the Gottweiger Stiftsberg and is the Malat estate's most historic and probably also most important Veltliner plantation. The soil is all classic loess with south to south west exposure.

Importer’s Notes - “This wine shows extraordinarily vibrant and beautifully sculpted expression of GV - snap-pea and other kitchen-garden aromas, lovely pear and peach notes, acids nicely focused and interwoven; charming minerality and excellent balance."

Straw colored, medium bodied, crisp, modest fruits of pear and hints of peach with mineral and acid notes on the finish. 

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?4413626

https://www.malat.at/wp/

Linda’s crèamcheese gnudi was accompanied by this crisp Sauvignon Blanc. 

Arnaud & Albéric Lechat Les Silex Sauvignon Blanc 2021

For the lobster dish, this Sauvignon Blanc is from the Loire River Valley that runs west for 170 miles from the historic city of Orléans towards the Atlantic Ocean, and is one of France’s most diverse wine regions, and one of the most historic with grand riverside châteaux once inhabited by kings and nobles.

The climate in the Touraine sub-region is moderated by the Cher River, a tributary of the Loire.

For four generations, the Domaine de Beauséjour estate was run by the Trotignon family, who made it into one of the most respected names in the Touraine appellation. The Lechat brothers, Arnaud and Albéric Lechat took over in 2022 with plans to build on this foundation. 

The Les Silex estate consists of nearly fifty acres of which 40 are planted with Sauvignon Blanc – the region’s most popular white grape.

This was straw colored, light medium bodied with subdued crisp gooseberry, stone, and grapefruit citrus fruits with notes of mineral on the finish.

RM 89 points. 

For the third course we selected the Crispy skin black bass and the Rohan duck breast entrees.

Crispy skin black bass, escarole, calabrian chile, herbed pil pil

This black bass course turned out to be a disappointment with the sea foam coming across way too fishy for enjoyment. The wine accompaniment for this dish was this interesting Friulano Bianca.

Mitja Sirk Bianco Europea Friulano IGT 2022 

This unique white wine if crafted from the Tocai Friulano grape from the Venezia Giulia Appellation in the Friuli Region from the town of Cormons in Collio, Italy, in the extreme northeastern most corner of Italy, just a mile from the Slovenian border. 

The major city or town of Friuli Venezia Giulia is the regional capital of Trieste. Until recently, Friuli Venezia Giulia was divided into four provinces, each named after its principal city, however, in 2018 the system changed whereby the provinces were replaced by a series of territories known as UTIs.The largest cities are the three former provincial capitals of Udine, Gorizia and Pordenone, along with the town of Monfalcone. 

The horseshoe-shaped region of eastern Friuli is referred to simply as Collio (“hills”), lying midway between the Julian Alps and the Adriatic Sea. The climate is classic Mediterranean, warm in summer, but, as a classic Alpine area, cold and wet in winter, which are ideal conditions for the thin-skinned but early-ripening Friulano grape. WWII took a heavy toll on Collio. In the postwar period, Friuli rebuilt its economy based largely on wine, but it did not emerge as a source of notable wines until the late 1960s. 

The Sirk family, Josko and Loredana, and their grown children, are originally from Slovenia, but have been at home over the Italian border in Cormons for more than half a century. Josko ran the estate until the 1974 vintage, then moved his attention from farming to the [now Michelin-starred] restaurant and the [now world-renowned] hotel, La Subida, and became a legend in Friulian hospitality. 

For the following 30 years, the vineyards that we own were worked by Sirk family cousins. In 2003, the next generation Sirk family took them back for vinegar and wine production. Son Mitja restarted the wine production in 2016, as a project based on working exclusively with friulano, the typical variety of the region.

Mitja Sirk is the winemaker for this label that bears his name. Mitja wanted to be a winemaker from the age of 11. A local winegrower Josko Gravner took him under his arm and mentored his winemaking ambition. He started by giving him one of his clay amphorae wine producing vessels, bought some grapes and produced his first wine. 

Mitja went on to study at the local viticulture and enology in high school, then traveled throughout Europe learning directly from winemakers he admired and tasting regularly with his best friend Kristian Keber, producer Edi Keber’s son. He worked at producer Isole e Olena in 2011, Dujac in 2013, Conterno in 2014, and Roulot in 2018, each contributing to his learning, experience and confidence. 

Mitja focused on the Fruilano grape, the traditional and most widely planted in Collio, prized for its aromatic delicacy pronounced mineral, floral, and sweet almond notes, with a distinctive note of bitterness at the finish.

This wine is sourced from seven select vineyards in Collio and Colli Orientali grown at 70 to 150 meters above sea level. The vines are 20-70 years in age, grown orgaincally on the stony “ponca” soils of compacted sandstone and marl. The wine’s alcoholic fermentation and elevage occurs primarily in steel tanks, with 10% done in neutral barrel. The wine was aged approx 6 months with virtually no battonage in this vintage, due to the incredibly long, slow fermentation. The wine was bottled after a very light filtration 

The result is an easy drinking wine with strong aromatic character and a sharp and clean ending. 

Mitja makes both some single-vineyard bottlings and also a “Bianco di Mitja” which is sourced from the area’s most notable sites. He’s working with vineyards on both sides of the Slovenian border, hence the Bianco is now bottled as a “Vino Bianco Europeo.” The Brda in Slovenia and Collio in Friuli are geologically the same region, and share a climate.

Straw colored, light medium bodied, soft crisp notes of honeysuckle, melon, lime peel, and crushed flowers with a stony yet refreshing acidity on the pleasant finish. 

RM 87 points. 

On the promotion of our server, all three gentlemen ordered the duck breast, which was delicious, as good as I remember having before in any other restaurant.

Rohan duck breast, malted sunchoke, huckleberry & duck confit pithivier


The Rohan duck breast was paired with this interested Spanish  red wine. 

Navaherreros Garnacha Tinta de Bernabeleva 2022 

Readers of these pages know I often order duck when dining out, and take BYOB or select a Rhône varietal wine for such occasions. With the duck course I predicted such and we were served this Spanish Garnacha, which is essentially Grenache, the popular grape from the southern Rhône River Valley. 

Garnacha's actual birthplace is Spain however,  it is more recognized as Grenache, the ‘G” in GSM, the popular Rhône blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, produced in the red blends of the Southern Rhône, most notably Châteauneuf-du-Pape (which by AOC rules must contain 70% of the three grapes), as well as Côtes du Rhône and its villages. It is also popular in California, primarily in the Central Coastal region of Paso Robles, Washington and Australia.

This is the entry-level red of Spanish producer Navaherreros from just north of La Mancha, Spain’s (and actually Europe’s) largest classified wine region, Vinos de Madrid DO. The large region is comprised of four subregions that start about 9 miles from the city center. Three of the subregions form a semicircle around the southern suburbs, Arganda, Navalcarnero, San Martín, and El Molar, situated directly north of the city, the newly created 4th subregion. Vinos de Madrid was granted DO status in 1990.

While Tempranillo is the most planted grape variety in the Arganda subregion in the southeast, Garnacha is the dominant grape in all other subregions, including El Molar in the north, Navalcarnero in the south, and especially San Martín de Valdeiglesias in the west.

Grenache thrives in the warm, Mediterranean climate where ample sunlight allows its clusters to achieve full ripeness. 

This was rated 92 points by The Wine Advocate.

Opaque ruby colored, medium bodied, wild black berry fruits with earthy, meaty notes, hints of iron and graphite with dusty tannins and a dry finish. 

RM 89 points.



For the dessert course we selected:

bay leaf crème brûlée, olive oil, satsuma mandarin, roasted vanilla

hibiscus pavlova, ginger, toasted coconut, chamoy

white sesame mont blanc, miso butterscotch, salted maple, caramelized banana. shown below.


The culinary team at Sepia consists of:

executive chef andrew zimmerman
chef de cuisine kyle cottle sous chefs brian daley & jayme cannava
pastry chef erin kobler, and, pastry sous chef melissa santiago

Our server and Jake Bennie, new wine director

https://www.sepiachicago.com/

https://x.com/SepiaChicago

Tuesday, January 21, 2025

UGCB 2022 Vintage Release Tour 2025 Comes to Chicago

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) North American 2022 Vintage Release Tour Chicago Preview Tasting 2025  

Once again, the UGC Bordeaux (Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB)), annual release tour visited Chicago this week unveiling/showcasing their 2022 vintage release wines. This was the same event we attended and featured last year in these pages in this post - UGCB 2021 Vintage Release Tour 2024 Comes to Chicago, excerpted below.. 

The Union is the association of 132 members of the top premier wine producer estates from the most prestigious Bordeaux appellations. In cooperation with distributors, brokers and merchants they host over 80 events in fifteen countries visiting 65 cities to present their wines to some 50,000 or so professionals and wine lovers each year around the world.

Their events go beyond France, taking them throughout Europe (Germany, UK, Belgium, Switzerland, Italy, Netherlands, Russia), to this tour of North America (US and Canada) , and to Asia (China, Japan, South Korea, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Singapore). 

This year's UGCB US TOUR - 2025 started in Miami at The Hangar, then to the fabulous Cipriani on 42nd Street in New York, prior to coming to The Drake Hotel in Chicago, then heading on to San Francisco City View @ Metreon, and finishing at Vibiana in Los Angeles. Previous years have also included stops in Toronto and/or  Montréal.

'Pour Boys' Tom C, me, Ernie and Lyle with 
UGCB Ambassadors Chloe Morvan and
Marie Damouseau, from 2020.

As in previous years, members of our 'Pour Boys' wine group helped conduct the event in Chicago, one of the highlight of my wine exploits throughout the year.

As in years past, except the Covid disrupted alternate site two years ago, at Chicago Union Station Grand Hall, which actually was delayed to June, the gala event was held in the Drake Hotel in the magnificent grand Gold Coast Ballroom (shown below).


The Pour Boys serve as volunteers, working with the host organizers Mike Wangbickler, Kat Stark and the Balzac Communications team, and the UGCB Bordeaux events team.

According to the routine, we help prepare the room and the wines, checking in trade registrants, and standing in for producers who faced travel or other disruptions, presenting and pouring their wines.

We start early in the day unpacking and preparing the wines, carefully setting up each wine station for the arrival of the producers' and their representatives for presenting and pouring the wine during the afternoon session.  

Often over the years, some producers or their representatives were delayed in travel or had other disruptions and we were called in to service to pour their wines, hence, we earned our moniker, the 'Pour Boys'. This was our sixteenth year working this gala annual event.

Pour Boys Rick and Lyle

As usual, close to a hundred producers were represented at the event that was attended by over five hundred members of the trade, merchants, hospitality and media.

As is their custom in the third week of January, this annual roadshow is a marathon trek across North America by the producers and their representatives, offering wine professionals and oenophiles the chance to meet the Bordeaux principles, winemakers, ambassadors and commercial directors.

As always, we appreciate the investment in time and effort expended by the producers and their representatives coming to visit Chicago. It provides a wonderful opportunity to meet them firsthand and hearing their perspectives on their brand, approach to crafting their vintage release, their history, businesses, and their past vintages and of course, the current release.

As collectors and holders of not-insignificant collections of Bordeaux wines dating back four decades, we Pour Boys hold as many as several dozen or more vintages of some of these labels. Meeting the owners, family members, producer / winemaker / representatives of these great Chateaux is a great privilege and offers a collector the chance to learn more about their investment and wines.

As such, I tend to focus on and taste those wines that I know well and hold verticals (multiple vintages of the same label), of which my wine buddies and I have holdings.

Despite the extreme inclement weather this day in Chicago, this years event was well attended to a full house.


After working to set up the event, register attendees and fill in for late arriving producers' due to travel delays, we’re able to partake of the release tasting.

The 2022 vintage is a blockbuster, possibly the best in a decade, on par with the recent stellar 2009 and likely to be heralded with legendary vintages such as 1982 and others.

The 2022 year was one of the hottest and driest growing seasons in the history of the region. The early heat in the spring set up the vines for the brutally hot and dry summer growing season, which also included some critical rains in June and a few storms in August. Producers learned from the continuous hot and dry vintages of 2018, 2019 and 2020 how to moderate or cope with the intense sun, such as leaving fuller canopies of leaves to shade grapes. 

Despite the rather extreme weather conditions, the vintage produced dark dense fruit resulting in opulent and structured wines, beautifully balanced, smooth, supple, polished and elegant, bursting with fresh ripe fruit flavors that were approachable, even when young, upon release. 

It was reported that all the Bordeaux varietal grapes — Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, faired well. Berries were small, skins were healthy and the juice was concentrated. While acidities are on the lower side, the wines show remarkable freshness and purity, aromatics are right and vibrant and textures are smooth and polished. 

As is the case as I have written before, in such great vintages, ‘all boats rise with the tide”, so that there should be many stunning wines available, even at the more modest price points as the gap between grand vin and second wines may be narrower in 2022

As usual, we focused on the producers that we own and collect, with particular interest in those that we visited during our last trip to Bordeaux, as well as those we are targeting for our next or futures visits to the region. 

Highlights of wines that stood out were the usual suspects from my perennial favorites - Pichon Baron, Lynch Bages, then Pichon Lalande, in Paulliac, in order of more structured and concentrated to less so. 

Pauline Gibert Pichon Baron

In St Julien, Gruaud Larose, then Leoville Barton followed by Leoville Poyferre, and finally Beychevelle, which showed particularly well with extraordinary bouquet and polished ripe fruit. 

As is customary, the Barton wines were represented by Managing Director Lilian Barton Sartorius who represents the 9th generation of the Barton family. These days the property is managed by Lilian assisted by her husband, Michel Sartorius, and their grown children, Damien and Melanie, of the 10th generation, who are taking on increasing responsibility in the business. Here she is shown with Sara Lecompte-Cuvelier of Leoville Poyferre.


The Branaire Ducru was the finest I’ve ever experienced in memory, perhaps reflecting, in addition to the vintage, this being the first vintage produced in the completely renovated production facilities, with double the number of vats, with which to be more discriminating and granularly focused in the production and ultimate blending.  

Francois-Xavier-Maroteaux
Owner Château Branaire-Ducru

Pomerol showed well with Clinet being a standout. I regret I didn’t get to taste two favorites, Chateaux Canon and Canon-Le-Gaffeliere, as they were gone by the time I got  to their table, late in the day. 

The ever dapper Stephan von Neipperg,
(Château Canon-La-Gaffelière) 


Domaine Chevalier showed well from Pessac-Leognan, presenting a new label/branding for the historic anniversary vintage.

Hugo Bernard - Domaine Chevalier

Earlier UGCB and related events are featured in earlier unwindwine blogposts

Most recently .. 

UGCB 2020 Vintage Release Tour Chicago 2023

Grand Cru Bordeaux 2019 Vintage Release Tour Chicago

 UGCB 2017 Release Tour Chicago 

https://twitter.com/ugcbwines 



Wednesday, October 30, 2024

St Emilion Grands Crus Association visits Chicago

St Emilion Grands Crus Association visits Chicago 

As we do with the UGCB Vintage Release Tour when it comes to Chicago each year for their annual release tour across America, a couple of our Pour Boys wine group (so named for when we’re called to duty to pour wines as such events) had the privilege of helping host the L’Association de Grands Crus Classes de Saint Emilion USA Tasting Tour 2024 visit to Chicago

The Association focuses primarily on the quality of the wines produced over ten years, vineyard terroir, and the renown of the growths. It also examines vine-growing and wine-making practices, especially when dealing with environmental care. 

The 2024 Trade and Press Tour showcased the 2020 vintage - one of the most successful vintages in St. Emilion with its “explosion of flavors and pleasure”.

A fortuitous and interesting twist to this tasting was that each producer showed two vintages, comparing their current release against an earlier vintage, going back as far as a decade - often aged or stellar benchmark vintages such as the 2015, ‘15, or ‘17. 

Being single appellation specific, the event was much smaller than the 130+ producers that participate in the broader Bordeaux organization event, yet there were no less than twenty-six Chateaux represented at the event.

As it was previously, when we  Pour Boys Served at the Grands Crus Classes of St Emilion 2015 Chicago Tasting, the event was held at the magnificent Venue Six10, at that address on South Michigan Avenue overlooking Grant Park and the lakefront. Shown above are producers from that previous event. 

Participating CHÂTEAUX Included:

    • CHÂTEAU BADETTE
    • CHÂTEAU BELLEFONT BELCIER
    • CHÂTEAU BELLEVUE
    • CHÂTEAU CHAUVIN
    • CLOS DE L'ORATOIRE
    • CLOS DES JACOBINS
    • CHÂTEAU LA COMMANDERIE
    • CLOS DUBREUIL
    • CHÂTEAU CORBIN
    • COUVENT DES JACOBINS
    • CHATEAU CROIX DE LABRIE
    • CHATEAU DASSAULT
    • CHÂTEAU DE PRESSAC
    • CHÂTEAU FOMBRAUGE - 
    • CHÂTEAU FONPLEGADE
    • CHÂTEAU FONROQUE
    • CHÂTEAU FRANC MAYNE
    • CHÂTEAU GRAND CORBIN
    • CHÂTEAU GRAND CORBIN-DESPAGNE - 
    • CHÂTEAU LA CONFESSION -
    • CHÂTEAU LA CROIZILLE
    • CHÂTEAU TOUR BALADOZ
    • CHÂTEAU LA TOUR FIGEAC
    • CHÂTEAU YON-FIGEAC

The event was attended by a full house of wine professionals and journalists from across the region. 



Right Bank Bordeaux 2020 was an ideal vintage for Merlot based wines that showed exquisitely, displaying concentrated rich, vibrant bright ripe red and dark brambly fruits. 

We appreciate the efforts of the L’Association de Grands Crus Classes de Saint Emilion and participating producers for coming to visit us here in the Midwest and share with us their handicraft, and sharing and educating the trade and pundits on the recent release. 

Saturday, August 24, 2024

Duck Inn (Chicago) Pour Boys Wine Group Dinner

Duck Inn (Chicago) Pour Boys Wine Group Dinner

An abbreviated group of the Chicagoland contingent of our Pour Boys Wine Group met for dinner at Duck Inn, Chicago

The Duck Inn was opened in Chicago’s near south side Bridgeport neighborhood by Chef Kevin Hickey in 2014.

Previously Kevin worked with Four Seasons in Dublin, London and Atlanta before coming back to his native Chicago in 2004 — first at The Ritz Carlton Hotel as Executive Chef and eventually the Four Seasons Chicago as Executive Chef & Restaurant Director where he led his team to two consecutive Michelin Stars, the only Four Seasons Chef to receive Michelin Stars in North America and AAA Five Diamond status with the restaurant Seasons. He eventually opened the acclaimed restaurant, Allium.

In November 2015, The Duck Inn was named one of the “Best New Restaurants in America” by Esquire Magazine, named as one of the Top 10 restaurants in America by USA Today and chosen as Restaurant of the Year by Eater Chicago. The Chicago Tribune named Kevin Hickey, Chef of The Year for 2015. To date, The Duck Inn has been awarded the coveted Bib Gourmand by Michelin for six consecutive years.

We ordered from the menu a their two signature offerings to share - Rotisserie Duck with Foie Gras, and the All Natural Ribeye Beefsteak with Fries.


Peach Wellington - Duck and Foie Gras Sausage with duxelles Italian black truffle, klug farm peaches and peach jus …

And finally, no visit to Duck Inn is complete without trying their famous Duck Inn Dogs, their tribute to the classic Chicago Hot Dog. Made with all-natural beef and duck fat in a hog casing and grilled to a perfect snap, their dog is topped with all the classic ingredients of a Chicago dog. 

We brought from our respective cellars a flight of red wines to pair with the diverse food courses. 

As customary, when we bring BYOB, we share with the Sommelier, Chef, or in this case the owner/proprietor and Chef Kevin Hickey, who, as always, was enthusiastic and eager to taste. 


Sea Smoke "Southing" Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2013

Dan brought this from his cellar from his wine club allocation of this popular ultra-premium label from Sea Smoke, one of the Central Coast's cult Pinot producers. 

Sta. Rita Hills is the coolest, westernmost sub-region of the larger Santa Ynez Valley appellation within Santa Barbara County. This relatively new AVA produces highly rated Chardonnay and Pinot Noir due to the cool climate effects of the ocean breezes and well-drained, limestone-rich calcareous soil. 

The unique geography there is such that the mountain ranges lie perpendicular to the coast rather than parallel, so the Pacific marine layer fog and breezes sweep regularly into through the valley. 

The Southing label is sourced entirely from the Sea Smoke Estate Vineyard in the Sta. Rita Hills of Santa Barbara County. 

This is aged  16 months in 55% new French oak barrels.

This release was awarded 94 points by Wine Enthusiast and 90 points by Wine Spectator.

Bright Ruby Colored, medium bodied, ripe black raspberry and hints of strawberry and black cherry fruits accented by notes of mocha, cinnamon, spice, dusty rose and hints of cola.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?2044703


Domaine Vieux Telegraph Chateauneuf du Pape 2015

Lyle brought from his cellar this highly rated Rhône Blend. 

Our visit to Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe was a highlight of our trip to France and Provence and  Châteauneuf-du-Pape, one of  the most renowned wine producing area in the Southern Rhône River Valley. 

We blogged a few prior to and in our preparation for the trip and and our visit and then featured our visit to Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe. Châteauneuf-du-Pape in a blogpost at the time. 

That was a return visit for me as I visited Vieux Télégraphe during my tour to Châteauneuf-du-Pape back in 1998.

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is a leading producer in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and their flagship and signature label La Crau is one of the most celebrated grand cru of the southern Rhône.

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe "La Crau" Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2015

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/07/domaine-du-vieux-telegraphe-chateauneuf.html



This much heralded release was awarded 96 points by James Suckling, 95 points by Wine Spectator, 94 points by Wine Advocate, 93 points by Jeb Dunnuck, and 92-94 points by Vinous.

Suckling said it best - “An array of red, blue and purple fruits. Gently spicy, chalky and fragrant, it has a very supple, fleshy and layered palate with a web of fine, smooth and supple tannins. Extremely elegant and composed. A long draw on the finish. Great depth and drive.” 

Wine Spectator said best from 2020 through 2035. Wine Advocate said It should drink well for up to 20 years. The fruit seemed somewhat subdued when compared to brighter the Force Majeure, perhaps we drank this too soon but at nine years it should be at a point to reveal its true nature and character. 

The flagship wine of the estate, as always, sourced from the oldest vines of the estate on la Crau,  the 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape, is a blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah and 5% other permitted varieties. 

Bright ruby-red. medium to full-bodied, floral on opening, ripe red and dark berries, kirsch, licorice, white pepper, smoky mineral overtone, hints of mocha chocolate on the long, silky finish laced with fine chewy gripping tannins.

RM 92 points. 



Force Majeure Parvata (GSM) Red Blend 2017

In light of Lyle bringing the VT CDP, I brought from our cellar this American version of the Rhône Blend, acquired from our wine club allocation. 

We discovered this wine during our visit to the Force Majeure estate and vineyards during our Walla Walla Wine Experience back in 2018


Like the Vieux Telegraph, this was a blend of the classic Rhône varietals - 42% Mourvèdre, 25% Grenache, 23% Syrah, 5% Counoise, and 4% Cinsault, all sourced from vineyards in the Columbia Valley Washington, Red Mountain Appellation. Indeed, Parvata means “mountain” in sanskrit, and hence is the name for Force Majeure's southern Rhône style blend, grown in the sandy, loamy soils of the lower section of the Red Mountain vineyard.

This was aged in 25% new French oak, mostly 400- and 500-liter barrels.

This too was highly rated getting 95 points from jebdunnuck.com and Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, and 92 points from Vinous. 

Unlike the VT CDP with its long storied history over several generations, this is just the third vintage of this cuvée, first released in 2015.

Stephen Tanzer said, “Still a bit youthfully rigid today and in need of a year or two of patience.” 

Bright ruby-red, full bodied, expressive, vibrant, powerful, dense with an intense core of fresh ripe red, black and blue fruits, accented by spice, bitter dark chocolate, licorice and oak, finishing with ripe, fine-grained tannins on a long lingering finish. 

RM 93 points.