Showing posts with label Montelena. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Montelena. Show all posts

Friday, March 14, 2025

Pour Boys Norwegian Salmon Pinot Noir Dinner

Pour Boys Norwegian Salmon Pinot Noir Dinner 

Fellow Pour Boy Dr Dan and Linda hosted us for a Friday Night fine wine dinner. They missed our OTBN abbreviated gathering due to extensive travel in Australia and NZ. Our annual OTBN Wine Extravaganza Weekend this year found our Pour Boys Wine Group fragmented with folks traveling, so we set a raincheck for a future get-together. In any event, Linda and I traveled to Charleston (SC) for an abbreviated OTBN get together with fellow wine buddy & Pour Boy Bill C, and Beth


Linda prepared a delicious fresh catch Norwegian Salmon in a spinach tomato butter cream sauce with balsamic rice and cooked carrots, with a side Caesar Salad. 

Dan served an extensive wine flight starting with vintage Champagne, then Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and finishing with a TBA dessert wine. I supplemented the flight with a Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir from our cellar. 

Wine flight served/tasted right to left.

Prior to dinner, with the champagne, Dan and Linda served shrimp cooked in garlic butter lemon sauce with a selection of artisan cheeses, aged sharp cheddar, havarti and a sweet Swiss, with crackers and marmelaide, charcuterie and mixed nuts. 

Veuve Doussot ‘Ernestine’ Champagne 2015

This vintage Champagne is a blend of predominantly Pinot Noir and some smaller amount of Chardonnay, typical of the Aube region of Champagne.

Golden colored, bright expressive full gripping palate of ripe apple, apricot and citrus fruits with a layer of nut tones and accents of mineral and brioche with bold acidity on the finish.

RM 90 points. 

It was rated 91 points by Roger Voss of Wine Enthusiast.


Chateau Montelena Napa Valley Chardonnay 2020

Chateau Montelena is one of the most historic and pre-eminent labels Napa Valley dating back to 1882, the same producer we took to our wine dinner at Oak Restaurant Charleston recently, when we we traveled to Charleston (SC) for an abbreviated OTBN get together with fellow wine buddy & Pour Boy Bill C, and Beth

It was this classic flagship label from this legendary producer Chateau Montelena that in 1976 gained international acclaim for not only the winery, but for Napa Valley and the US wine industry with the monumental and historic ‘Judgement of Paris wine tasting event’. That tasting event was chronicled in Time Magazine in the June 1976 issue.

That blind tasting by the venerable who’s-who of the French wine and food industry at the Inter-Continental Hotel in Paris pitted four white Burgundies against six California Chardonnays. The French Judges presumed the top-ranking white wine was one of their own, but it was Chateau Montelena’s 1973 Chardonnay, that was rated above all other wines. This seminal event was memorialized in the book "The Judgment of Paris," by George Taber, and was the basis for the 2008 feature film “Bottle Shock”.

Not just wine aficionados, everyone will enjoy watching the entertaining classic movie "Bottle Shock" that chronicles the early days of Napa Valley, early winemakers, and Chateau Montelena, and its legendary finishing first in the epic competition tasting between American and French wines back in 1976. 

The modern era began in 1968, when Jim Barrett purchased the estate and set about replanting the vineyard, outfitting the winery with modern equipment, and applying every effort towards producing the highest quality wines.  

We visited the historic Chateau up in the north end of Napa Valley back in the early nineties, before I was blogging and writing about such activities. 

We had fun with the famous event with a wine dinner featuring wines from the historic tasting, featured in these pages - Dinner Features Judgement of Paris Wines - Dinner Features Judgement of Paris Wines to Commemorate the Tasting event's Anniversary

The Chateau Montelena estate just north of Calistoga with it’s historic 19th century stone Chateau is surrounded by exceptional vineyards with a complex mix of soils, slopes and an ideal climate for producing wines to complete with the great First Growths of France. 

Master Winemaker Bo Barrett, Jim’s son, now runs the estate with the help of Winemaker Matt Crafton and Vineyard Manager Dave Vella.

This 2020 release was awarded 93 points by Decanter and by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. 

This is 100% Chardonnay that matured 10 months in French oak.

Winemaker Matt Crafton notes on the 2020 Chateau Montelena Napa Valley Chardonnay: "The parade of citrus marches on, although the midpalate turns more tropical with starfruit and pineapple. And while there’s still plenty of green apple, the texture and juiciness of Asian pear adds complexity and depth. The acid is consistent and winds its way through the profile, lifting the texture and balancing the suppleness from barrel. This will be a long-lived wine."

“Bright gold in the glass, the parade of citrus marches on, opens with green apple, honeysuckle although the midpalate turns more and orange blossom, citrus in tropical with starfruit and pineapple. particular seems to be most evident, And while there’s still plenty of green as lime leaf and lemon zest at this apple, the texture and juiciness of stage. This vintage was more classic Asian pear adds complexity and depth. rather than overly ripe. The acid is consistent and winds its way surprising. There’s a hint of fresh through the profile, lifting the texture wood and vanilla as well, adding and balancing the suppleness from some nuance without overshadowing barrel. ˜is will be a long-lived wine. the beautiful floral character. ˜e transition to the finish is still somewhat abrupt due to the wine’s youth and dynamism.˜

Straw colored, medium bodied, clean crisp, steely notes of tart citrus, apple and tangerine fruits with notes of minerality on a full round acidic finish. 

RM 91 points. 


https://montelena.com/

Chateau Boswell ‘Absolutely Eloise’ Rita’s Crown Vineyard, Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2016

This limited production single vineyard designated label is from boutique winery Chateau Boswell which remains among a handful of privately owned family wineries amidst the 554 wineries in the Napa Valley in a time when so many have been taken over by the large consolidated corporate brands. 

Founded in 1985 by Richard Thornton Boswell when there were less than a hundred Napa Valley producers, who sold mostly through distribution, he had the foresight to focus on small lot French Style wines to be sold directly to the client. 

Initially, they produced wines from Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon at the stone winery sourced from estate vineyards along the Silverado Trail in Saint Helena. Since then, over the last 25 years, under the direction of Boswell’s wife Susan, they have expanded the portfolio to include Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines from California’s most treasured vineyards. 

Famed legendary winemaker André Tchelistcheff produced those early wines, eventually overseen by consulting winemakers, Philippe Melka and Keith Hock, in collaboration with Chateau Boswell Winemaker Allison Nunnikhoven.

This single vineyard designated Chateau Boswell ‘Absolutely Eloise’ label is from estate Sta. Rita Hills Rita’s Crown vineyard in Santa Barbara County. The rocky terrain and super steep slopes are in the cool–climate area, heavily influenced by the proximity of the Pacific Ocean, are ideal for producing world-class Pinot Noir. The proximity of east-west aspect of the Santa Rosa and Santa Rita Hills allow the cool ocean fog to flow through the Santa Ynez River Valley. 

The chalky marine and volcanic soils are void of nutrients forcing the vines to struggle resulting in tiny intense clusters that produce wines with distinctive terroir driven flavor profiles. 

Recent vintages of this label were awarded 98 and 97 points by Jeb Dunnuck. 

Dark garnet colored medium to full bodied, rich and focused nicely balanced blackberry and black cherry fruits accented by notes of classic Pinot Noir dusty rose petals, leather, smoked herbs and violets with ripe tannins on a smooth polished lingering finish.

RM 94 points. 


Summer Dreams “Twilight” Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2022

This is an another limited production, ultra-premium label, from Napa Valley Bordeaux varietal producer, Jayson Woodbridge, an investment banker from Toronto, Canada who established and operates Hundred Acre Winery. 

From 1989, after visiting vineyards in Canada, Switzerland and France, to the late 1990s, with several investors and partners, Jayson and his wife Helen Mawson, a New Zealand native and US citizen, founded Hundred Acre, ultimately buying out their partners and taking over as sole owners. 

With no winemaking experience, Woodbridge quickly showed his aptitude for learning from luminary winemakers including St Helena-based Philippe Melka. Over the following decade they produced no less than 61, 100-point scores Napa based Bordeaux varietals!.

Over the last decade they turned their attention to producing cool climate Pinot Noir labels from the unique soils and extreme conditions of the West Sonoma Coast in the Sonoma Coast AVA. Sonoma County’s largest AVA extends from San Pablo Bay on the south to Mendocino County in the north. 

Adjacent to the Pacific with its cool coastal climate, with more than twice the annual rainfall of its inland sub-regions in other parts of Sonoma County, these Sonoma Coast sites are warm enough to ripen wine grapes because the vineyards are at elevations above the fog line. 

Branded under the ‘Summer Dreams’ labels, the wines are crafted by winemaker Ashley Holland. “I came up with Summer Dreams because I love summer,” said Woodbridge. “You can still get summer in the winter with these wines. They are made the same way that Hundred Acre is made, coming from very low-yielding vineyards in the Sonoma Coast, sorted berry by berry.”

Ashley’s wine career spanned California and Oregon, and Australia, New Zealand, and Uruguay, working with noted winemakers Bill Price, Bob Cabral, and Ryan Prichard. She was a natural fit with legendary Woodbridge. Ashley and Jayson explored over a hundred vineyards before selecting sites, slope, Goldridge soils, and vine age as their primary qualifiers.

“We give Ashley everything she needs, but we leave it to her. We’re not trying to steal her thunder; we’re her spiritual guides.”

This ‘Twilight’ label is 100% Pinot Noir from the West Sonoma Coast sub-regions Annapolis and Fort Ross-Seaview AVAs.  Annapolis is in the remote northwest corner of the Sonoma Coast AVA near Sea Ranch, the coolest region of the AVA due not only to the close proximity to the Pacific Ocean, but also the 500 to 800-foot elevation of the vineyards that puts them in the foggy and windy inversion layer that sweeps up the Wheatfield Fork of the Gualala River.

Fort Ross-Seaview is the most coastal of the Sonoma Coast AVA’s sub-regions, located on the far western edge of the AVA, and closest to the Pacific Ocean. The region is characterized by steep, rugged mountains and ridges that rise up from the ocean, and is home to some of the most dramatic vineyard sites in California.

Winemaker notes for Twilight Pinot Noir - “The full-bodied palate beams with flavors of wild blueberries and licorice, white pepper and cloves that lead to an undercurrent of violet. Seductive, with a velvety texture and seamless freshness, this Pinot Noir finishes long.’

“A dark-edged Pinot Noir with dark fruit, black cherry, and black plum with hints of the salty sea-spray and misty fog rolling into the Sonoma Coast from the Pacific Ocean.’

“Twilight is the most powerful time in life, the point between light and darkness, between day and night, when we are at our most productive, and this wine, according to proprietory Jayson Woodbridge, embodies all that. 'It has incredible staying power, showcasing Pinot Noir at its most muscular—like a warrior Pinot. It will carry you through the darkest times,' he says, and indeed, it does carry the light and dark as it unfurls with black cherry and spiced plum fruits, dark chocolate, and saline minerals. Its rich, creamy, and powerful character is underscored by fabulous minerality and brisk acidity. This wine makes a compelling argument for the power of Pinot—never underestimate it. Jayson doesn’t care if you accept the style; he makes it boldly and unapologetically. 'It’s like the Darth Vader of Pinot—dark, intense, yet undeniably good,' he says. Fabulous umami notes of long-roasted beef and intense charred mineral character, seaweed, and everything the ocean can deliver in your glass are also present. 

Blind tasted, few would select this as a Pinot Noir with its rich, dense, concentrated full round dark fruits and might think it a Syrah or a Bordeaux varietal. The give-away is the dusty rose petal ripe, succulent black cherry and black plum fruits with savory soy minerality and firm but elegant polished lingering finish. 

RM 95 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4607724

https://summerdreamswines.com/sonoma-pinot-noirs

Kracher Nouvelle Vague ‘#2” Chardonnay Trockenberenausliese (TBA) 2002 

We finished with this delicious unctuous dessert wine with pie with fresh berries and an assortment of chocolates. 

This is from the estate established by Alois Kracher Sr., grandfather to the current generation proprietors, a pioneer who recognised the potential of the region long before many of his peers. Alois Senior produced prized sweet wines from noble rotten grapes well before it was widely practiced. 

The Kracher Winery lies in the Seewinkel area of Austria´s Burgenland. Here, through the evaporative periods of Lake Neusiedl, the evening fog and the warm Pannonian climate, continuous warm-humid weather patterns are dominant and, therefore, allow for Botrytis cinerea to be generated. This is what provides the basis for the fantastic sweet wines such as Beerenauslese and this Trockenbeerenauslese.

Next generation Alois Kracher Jr., “Luis” Kracher, was also one of the greatest visionaries in winemaking and was a driving force behind the “Austrian wine wonder” during the 1990s and was instrumental in the renaissance of noble sweet wines. Trained as a chemist, he began his winemaking career at his father’s estate when he was twenty-two years old before his tragic premature death at the age of thirty. Alois Kracher, who died in December 2007, is remembered as one of the most important ambassadors for Austrian Wine all over the world.

Today, third generation Gerhard Kracher manages the estate with his life partner Yvonne, taking over on the passing of his father in 2007. From 2001, Gerhard gradually increased his responsibilities, representing the winery at international presentations promoting the ‘joie de vivre’ in the South of France, always looking ahead to experiment with new trends and innovations. 

Gerard created a new style of dessert wine, in which the fruit character, finesse and balance of the wine was far more important that just mere sweetness. The 1991 vintage brought Kracher international acclaim, and since, his name has become synonymous with cult sweet wines, especially in America. 

The Kracher portfolio includes the grape varieties Welschriesling, Chardonnay, Traminer, Scheurebe, Muskat-Ottonel and, from time to time even Zweigelt, Alois Kracher created each year 10 to 15 different Trockenbeerenauslesen wines in two different styles.

Zwischen den Seen (“in between the lakes”) are the wines which are matured in large wooden barrels or steel tanks, and undergo long yeast contact in order to deliver freshness, fruit und primary grape aromas into the bottle. The wines of the Nouvelle Vague line are marked by barrique ageing with air exchange during maturation. They are vivid and lively in taste, depth, spiciness and length, these wines notable characteristics.

Representing a small family business amongst the big wine dynasties of the world, Alois Kracher has gained widespread recognition and numerous awards including being honoured by Great Britain´s renowned Wine Magazine with the coveted "Wine Maker of the Year" title for an impressive seven times - in 1994, 1997, 1998, 2000, 2001, 2006 and 2008.

The range offered by what is undoubtedly the most widely known Austrian wine estate features the world-famous Trockenbeerenauslesen as well as Beerenauslesen, Auslesen, Eiswein (ice wine) and small amounts of dry white and red wines.

We hold a dozen labels of Kracher wines in our collection going back almost three decades. I acquired this label upon release, long ago, and shared a couple bottles of with Dan back at that time. 

Winemaker notes for this Chardonnay Nouvelle Vague - offers aromas of pineapple, apple jelly and brown spice. The palate is creamy and thickly-rich, full of spiced apple, honey, and butterscotch, and the finish solid but overtly sweet and – at least as yet – relatively simple. 

This was awarded 94 points by European pundit Falstaff, 90 points by Wine Spectator and 89 by The Wine Advocate. 

These sweet dessert wines in top vintages can age for several decades. Starting out straw colored they darken as they age turning golden, the hues of weak tea, and if held long enough darken to almost coffee color. 

Consistent with note from I first reviewed this wine back in 2011 when I wrote, "Honey color - full bodied, thick, chewy apricot, hints of grapefruit citrus, touch of pineapple and smoke."

RM 92 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=50493

http://www.kracher.at/en/

Saturday, October 22, 2016

DOC serves winning casual wine-dine experience

DOC serves winning casual wine-dine experience

Wife Linda often works at Yorktown in Lombard on Friday evenings so we regularly meet there for a casual date night wine and dine encounter at DOC. They regularly feature a selection of wine flights - three different wines of the same style for sharing/comparing. Their menu offers mostly small plates and sides suitable for wine pairing vs an extensive selection of entrees. So it was tonight that we chose the premium Reserve Flight to accompany my selection of sushi grade Ahi Tuna and Linda's pulled pork 'sliders', with a side of our favored polenta fries. All the foods were excellent and the service was attentive, friendly and effective.

The DOC folks actually have nine different locations around Chicagoland, four of those being operated under the DOC brand. 

Note for those so interested, their name is actually D.O.C. and stands for "Denominazione di Origine Controllata" (DOC) ("Controlled Denomination of Origin") which is Italy's equivalent of France's AOC - Appellation  D'Origine Controlee or America's AVA's for American Viticultural Area. The Italian DOC, like the other Appellation designations, are a defined geographic area and its designated production for wines produced from grapes grown in that area and includes specifications for the varieties that can be used, the minimum alcohol content, the maximum yield, and the specifications for aging.

The Reserve wine flight featured three bold expressive concentrated wines at the top of the range of styles from light to big and bold. Two of three of the wines were our favorite and most oft selected wines, Syrah and Cabernet, while the third was a Tempranillo, in which we rarely imbibe.

We've dined there often and tonight's experience rated as the most enjoyable ever. My Ahi tuna was wonderful and the wine flight scored highest over our previous encounters, even with one gaining lower marks. Lastly, during the summer months we will dine outside and always before we dined in the main dining room which tends to be dark. Tonight we dined in their 'Tasting Room' adjacent to the main dining room, behind the bar. This casual setting with the large fireplace and couches, and our table adjacent the large windows was most comfortable and pleasant.

The American centric wine selection is extensive with the actual wine list spanning ten pages - more than twenty each of American Pinot Noirs, California Chardonnays and Cabernets including popular and favored selections Robert Craig, Caymus, Silver Oak, David Arthur Elevation, Keenan, Cakebread, Darioush and Lakoya. They also offer half bottles and an extensive selection of wines BTG - by the glass. The wine prices tend to be a bit expensive, slightly more than 2x retail for bottle selections, and by the glass, and the Wine Flights are too, based on the amount of wine served for the price point. These are price points of elegant fine dining restaurants and one would hope to find more value in a casual bistro wine bar. Never-the-less, it does allow a broad selection of choices, BTG, and a series of wine flights, three different wines for about the cost of one and a half glasses, so its a good choice if one's objective is a tasting experience over a single glass of wine.

Tonight's flight -

For precision and the record, note that since we were pressed for time, I didn't inspect the labels of these featured selections and I know the producer's offer several labels of each of these wines. I did search for the bottles in their display case but didn't see any of these that we selected.

Chateau Montelena Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

While not a 'premium' label based on the plethora and range of high end Napa cabs these day, the Montelena Napa selection is certainly a legendary highest quality label for the category. Most notably, its rare to find such a quality offering BTG - by the glass, except in the most serious or high end wine bars or wine oriented restaurants. Note there are two different Montelena Napa labels, one 'Estate' and one designated 'Calistoga'. I admit I didn't ask to see the label so I am not certain which one this was but I suspect it is the 'non-estate' label. (The term 'Estate' means that all the grapes in the product were sourced from the producer's property. The lack of the term, allows for grapes purchased from other growers to be included.)

Blend: 85.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, 0.5% Petit Verdot.

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, smooth and polished so approachable and ready to drink now for enjoyable casual sipping, almost sophisticated and complex enough for serious dining, black cherry and dark plum fruits with tones of smoke, tobacco, licorice and hint of cedar.


RM 89 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2197970

Basel Cellars Walla Walla Valley Syrah 2013

Once again I didn't ask to see the label (which I normally do) so I am attributing my notes to their estate label. While their winelist and flight card specify Walla Walla, Oregon, I believe this is in error and they mean Walla Walla Valley in Washington. 

Garnet colored, medium bodied, blackberry fruits with tones of leather and cured meat, hints of pepper, smoke, earth and floral.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2166361

Martinez Bujanda Viña Bujanda Crianza Rioja, Spain

Once again, since we were pressed for time, I didn't inspect the label of this feature and I know they offer several labels of this varietal.

Garnet colored, medium bodied, more modest less expressive blackberry fruits with a layer of tobacco, smoke, tar and hints of clove spice.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2494741

http://www.docwinebarchicago.com/lombard/




Saturday, May 28, 2016

Dinner Features Judgement of Paris Wines

Dinner Features Judgement of Paris Wines to Commemorate the Tasting event's Anniversary

For a holiday weekend dinner, we selected wines that were featured in the famous Judgement of Paris tasting event on the week of its anniversary - Chateau Montelena Chardonnay and a pair of Freemark Abbey Bosché Cabernets,  contenders in the original tasting. That tasting event was chronicled in Time Magazine in the June 1976 issue.

Linda prepared grilled marinated flank steak and tuna steaks on the grill, served with roasted potatoes and vegetables and sweet corn on the cob.

Prior to dinner we served Sauvignon Blanc with the mixed greens salad brought by Bill & Beth, and with artisan cheese and spinach cheese puff hor d'oeuvres brought by Bob & Gloria.

After dinner I served a late harvest Sauvignon Blanc with Linda's desert, pound cake with creme fraiche and mixed berries.

John Anthony Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2012

John Anthony wines are the product of John Anthony Truchard, who has been exposed to the vineyards and wine production his whole life having growing up in Carneros immersed in the industry learning from many legends of the industry including his father Tony Truchard of the Napa Valley wine label of that name. 

The opening wine served with the cheese and hors d' ovres course. Butter/straw colored, light bodied, crisp balance of fruits and acidity - aromas and flavors of ripe green apples, ripe melon and hints of zesty citrus with a slight layer of smoke on the opening.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1788034

http://www.johnanthonyvineyards.com/


Chateau Monetelena Napa Valley Chardonnay 2011

Aficionados of wine must watch the entertaining classic movie "Bottle Shock" that chronicles the early days of Napa Valley, early winemakers, and Chateau Montelena, and its legendary finishing first in the epic competition tasting between American and French wines back in 1976. This descendant of that winning wine is the fortieth anniversary release of the label.

Paying tribute to that legendary wine, this vintage release is a reflection of, but makes the best of a challenging vintage in Napa, its a bit disjointed lacking the balance and polish of better years, never-the-less, the heritage and potential is apparent.

Straw colored, medium bodied, mineral and stone fruit predominate over the citrus, pear and slightly tart apple tones, turning to the long crisp rounded finish.

RM 89 points.


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1642398

http://montelena.com/

  The highlight of the evening tasting were these two showcase reds that were perfect accompaniment to the grilled marinated flank steak and roasted vegetables and potatoes. This is another memorable tasting of these wines that Bill and I have shared over the years, including our vist to Freemark Abbey Winery during our Napa 2009 wine experience. 
 

Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon Bosché Vineyard 1992 

I discovered this wine and acquired a case when I met the producer at a tasting in Binny's Naperville in the early nineties. At twenty-four years, this is our second to last bottle from that case. Only fitting that we open this on the anniversary of the famed blind tasting that put American and California wines on the map.

This tasting was consistent with similar to the previous tasting in 2012. Still vibrant with life left, while nearing the end of its drinking window this has a few years left and shows only slight signs of diminution with the fruit starting to give way to earthy leather tones, resulting in dropping a point in my rating of this wine. Dark garnet colored and medium bodied yet with distinctive 'legs' (or 'curtains' as my British friends call them), this exhibited polished and balanced concentrated black berry fruits with layer of spice, hint of smoke, earthy leather, tobacco and spice box on a moderate smooth, integrated moderate tannin finish.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=12605

To compliment the Bosche, Bill brought a decade younger vintage 2002 for a mini-horizontal comparison tasting.

Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon Bosché Vineyard 2002

Not surprising, this is similar to its older brother, and as the night wore on, the two vintages became more indistinguishable. with the same profile and characteristics, the fruit being slightly more bright and vibrant in the more recent release.

Like the earlier release, dark garnet colored and medium bodied yet with distinctive 'legs' (or 'curtains' as my British friends call them), this exhibited polished and balanced concentrated black berry fruits with layer of spice, hint of smoke, earthy leather, tobacco and spice box on a moderate smooth, integrated moderate tannin finish. The still bright and vibrant fruits warrants the higher rating.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1061464

http://www.freemarkabbey.com/


De Lorimier Sauvignon Blanc Late Harvest Lace 2002

For the after dinner dessert course I pulled from the cooler this Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc from the same 2002 vintage as the earlier tasted Montelena and the same varietal as the opening Sauv Blanc.

Part of the Ken and Diane Wilson, Wilson Artisan Wineries portfolio, this estate winery and vineyards specializes in Bordeaux varietals up in the Alexander Valley. The estate's dessert late harvest wines go back to the mid-eighties. Founded in 1986 by Al deLorimier the winery and vineyard were planted and developed into the Estate it is today. The production facility is set up for the blending and aging of many small lots. Ken and and co-owner/winemaker Diane Wilson, and winemaker Antoine Favero combine their talents to produce award winning artisan wines at deLorimier. 

In special years when the weather allows for a small harvest of Botrytised grapes late in the fall, they make dessert wine from Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, or a blend of the two. Botrytis Cineria, the "noble mold", creates a wine of naturally high sweetness and intensity of flavor, while maintaining the fresh fruit character.

This was weak tea colored, medium bodied, nicely balanced with sweet and smokey flavors of apricot, citrus and hints of brown sugar.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=327183

http://delorimierwinery.com/










Saturday, May 31, 2014

OTBN 2014

OTBN - Open That Bottle Night 2014

This night's tasting featured a varied selection of wines following a couple themes. One  commemorating this year being the 4th decade for Linda and me featured the four decade anniversary vintages of '74, '84, '94 and '04. The others reflected the spirit of OTBN, to bring whatever label was desired for drinking that night. As is always the case, the occasion produced a great tasting event of fabulous and interesting wines, great wine and food pairings, fellowship, friendship and fun.

Bill and Beth hosted and prepared a great wine friendly dinner of beef tenderloin, duck breast, scalloped potatoes, haricot verts, green salad, caprese salad and a desert course. Before dinner there was a selection of artisan cheeses, and shrimp cocktail.  A mixed green salad was accompanied by a cold tomato based soup.

The 'line-up'.

The OTBN (Open That Bottle Night) tradition calls for the event to occur the last Saturday night in February. This year's event was postponed twice, initially due to an outbreak of the flu and then for another conflict. So we declared tonight's tasting to effectively became our fourth OTBN in this column. See our 2011, 2012 and 2013 OTBN reports.

As written in this blog to explain previous OTBN's, here's the story. Credit (or blame) for this annual wine bachanalia goes to Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher, wine columnists for the Wall Street Journal. OTBN - Open That Bottle Night, was conceived for those that have a special bottle of wine or champagne hidden away being saved for a special occasion that for whatever reason hasn't happened.  

Every year since 2000, on the last Saturday night in February, Open That Bottle Night (OTBN) has been celebrated - the time to uncork and enjoy that cherished but here-to-for elusive bottle. OTBN was conceived by Gaiter and Brecher to say, what the heck, go for it, Open That Bottle (to)Night. They realized they weren't alone - having that special bottle set aside for an occasion that just never happens. On this night, you don't need an excuse or a reason - just do it! Take advantage of OTBN to open that bottle and enjoy it! Enjoy it by yourself, or better yet, enjoy it with someone special, or even better, with a group of special friends. Have everyone bring such a bottle and let the story telling begin, because amazingly, every OTBN bottle has a story or some meaning, or not. What the heck, Open That Bottle (To) Night!. Let the fun begin.   

The ritual for all our tasting events starts with the 'lineup', the exercise of lining up the bottles in the planned order of tasting. This is a fun debate that by default conforms to the prescribed tasting conventions - starting with the lighter and simpler wines first since a heavier or heartier wine will overpower lesser wines and you'll lose all sense of discrimination or calibration for them.

More precision on tasting order is:

Dry before sweet: This is probably the most important of the following rules, so if in doubt - opt for the "dry before sweet" rule. Sweet wines typically carry a long finish - drinking a dry wine with a short finish following a sweet wine with a long finish will almost always leave the dry wine tasting sour.

Old before young: Mature wines tend to provide the most subtle, elegant, and finessed nuances and should be sipped first to honor the complexity of the flavors that aging provides. Younger wines bear more tannin and fruit and will often wipe out some of the subtle qualities of older wines if tasted first.

White usually before Red: White wines are usually more delicate than reds - which is why many presume that red should always follow white. However, in some cases (ex. light Pinot Noir vs. full-flavored Voigners) sweeter wines pack a longer finish than dry wines, so save your sweet syrupy whites to follow drier reds for optimum flavor.

Light-bodied before full-bodied: The delicate flavors and aromas found in light-bodied wines will be missed entirely if consumed following tannic, robust reds.

Once the initial tasting order is set, part of the fun is testing it to see if we got it right based on the actual tasting results. Most often we get it right with just a few tweeks along the way. Again on this night, this was the case. 

Before we ventured into the flight, Bill served a pair of chardonnays with the pre-meal shrimp and assorted cheeses - Sancerre 2012 and Chateau Montelena Napa Valley Chardonnay 2009.

We started the red wine flight with two 1984 California Cabernet Sauvignons - Guenoc Lake County, and Silver Oak Napa Valley.

Guenoc Lake County Cabernet Sauvignon 1984

The story behind this bottle goes back to a tasting that occurred in July 1998 when I served a large format six liter bottle of this wine to colleagues from around the world at a global country managers meeting. Colleague Pete F and I entertained the group and I hosted a special wine tasting featuring 16 different wines from their respective countries from my cellar. One of the highlights of the tasting culminated with the 6 liter bottle the label of which we all signed (left). 

My notes from that event - "What do you expect from a 14 year old Lake County Cab? What a pleasant surprise to find this one full of berry, plum, cherry and an earthy mocha chocolate. This was tasted from a six liter bottle which no doubt held the fruit." 

The story about tonight's bottle resulted from our visit to the winery in the early 90's seeking a bottle of 1984 from their library. They said there weren't any for sale. When I told them I was holding this 6 liter bottle in my cellar for a special occasion and I wanted some from that vintage to 'test' before serving, they kindly obliged with a couple bottles. This is the last remaining bottle from that purchase. Read more about large format bottles.

I was prepared to dump this and move on to the next bottle, expecting that I had held onto this thirty year old for too long. Not to be as we were pleasantly surprised to find it was still holding was eminently drinkable, albeit with diminished color, structure and fruit being whispers of what they once were as noted above. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=34985

Silver Oak Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1984

Notice (above) the Silver Oak '84 bears the old historic 'silver' label that today is used only for the Alexander Valley release while Napa Valley is now adorned by an upscale painted bottle branding and packaging.

As with the Guenoc above, this was still drinkable although it had diminished color and fruit. That Silver Oak signature oakiness still predominated and stood out over the subdued earthy berry and cedar leathery finish. 

RM 84 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/editnote.asp?iWine=22527


Leoville Barton St Julien Bordeaux 1994

From Bill's cellar. From a more modest Bordeaux vintage, this still showed classic left bank complexity of earthy leather and notes of cedar with smooth polished subdued blackberry fruit accent with a hint of anise on a nicely refined lingering tannin finish.

RM 89 points. 


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1174





Château Malescot St. Exupéry Margaux Bordeaux 2004


Bill had open this magnum of this savory Bordeaux to start the evening. 

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied with huge floral perfume aromatics that typify the best of Margaux. They give way to pleasant, nicely balanced black raspberry and black currant fruits with tones of anise, expresso, and hints of spicy mocha on a leathery tobacco finish. 


RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=87208





La Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza Reserva 2004

Lyle brought this Tempranillo based Rioja Reserva.

Garnet colored, medium bodied, black fruits give way to earthy, tobacco, spice, smoke and leather with a long balanced finish.

RM 90

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=844857




Peter Michael Les Pavots Sonoma County Knights Valley Red Wine 2005

Ernie brought these two Peter Michael selections from his cellar.

Les Pavots is an estate bottled Bordeaux blend from the slopes of Mt Helena above the eastern Knights Valley in Sonoma County.

Dark ruby colored, elegant and polished, full bodied with full complex concentrated layers of blackberry, black raspberry and blackcurrant with tones of black tea, cigar box and hint of dark mocha and cedar on a silky smooth finish.

Blend: 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Cabernet Franc, 12% Merlot & 2% Petit Verdot

This got huge reviews and scores - 95 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator
and 93 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar

RM 95 points.

 http://www.petermichaelwinery.com/

Peter Michael Esprit Des Pavots 2004

’Esprit des Pavots' literally means “The Spirit of the Poppies.” This wine is sourced from the original Les Pavots vineyard blocks recently replanted with the rarest and best clones of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.

Dark ruby colored, full bodied, bright vibrant expressive full forward concentrated rich berry and plum fruits, smooth and polished despite complexity from hints of mocha, anise and black tea with full tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=224266

Joseph Phelps Insignia Napa Valley Red Wine 2004

Dan brought this and the Dominus Estate from his cellar - two napa Valley Bordeaux Blends. This may have been my favorite of the evening although the Les Pavots was a close second.

A blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 12% Petit Verdot and 2% Malbec

Another huge point scorer with  97 points from Wine Enthusiast, 94 from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator.

Dark ruby and inky purple color, full bodied, this required about an hour to open and reveal its true charachter and fruits - complex but elegant, balanced and polished, rich deep concentrated notes of blackberries, cassis, with hints of rich, crème caramel, sweet oak and cedar with smooth polished finely integrated tannins on the long finish.

RM 95 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/editnote.asp?iWine=165834


Dominus Estate Napa Valley Red Wine 2010 

While this got a 100 point rating from Robert Parker, the most noted major reviewers, like so many Dominus releases, it may take a decade or more for it to reveal its full potential.

While clearly a spectacular wine, at this young age, its a bit closed and tight suppressing its fruits and other nuances.

Blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, firm, dense concentrated complex layers of black fruits, black tea, creosote and anise with hints cedar of spice and dark chocolate with firm tight but well integrated tannins on the finish.

RM 94 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1374630



d'Arenberg Dead Arm McLaren Vale Shiraz 2004

Ernie also brought this from his cellar. The '04 is as big and dense as Dead Arm gets but was not as sweet as some vintages.

Dark inky black purple color, full bodied, thick, dense, tongue-coating unctuous layer of ripe plum, black raspberry, ripe blueberry and a layer of anise and black cherry with a spicy long firm tannin lingering finish.

RM 92 points.

 https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=246254



Taylor (Fladgate) Vintage Port Quinta de Vargellas 1974

I acquired this bottle at the legendary British wine merchant Berry Bros. & Rudd at their shop at 3 St James's Street London back in the early eighties. Back then of course you carry it in your hand luggage on the airplane.


Single Quinta Vintage Port (SQVP) is a title given to Port wines produced from a single vineyard (quinta) and from in a single vintage.


This is regarded by many as the most exciting category of port wine, since it offers the winemaker the opportunity to explore a more terroir-driven approach to fortified winemaking. An emerging style, SQVP started to gain popularity after 1986 when transportation restrictions were raised and smaller estates started to enter the market.

Single-quinta, or single-vineyard, vintage Porto is produced only in exceptional years in which a general vintage is not declared. Quinta de Vargellas vineyard has been part of the Taylor Fladgate estate for more than a century. It is known as one of the top 100 vineyards in the world with the highest percentage of old vines of any quinta in the Douro, with 60% over 75 years old. 


The 1974 vintage was a moderate year that was not declared by the major port houses. Some excellent single harvest colheitas were produced. For the vintage ports, despite a huge crop, very few vintage port-wines were bottled from this year and the bottles are very rare.

Quinta de Vargellas is the flagship of Taylor Fladgate's declared vintage Portos. In the best undeclared years, Quinta de Vargellas is produced on its own as a single-quinta vintage Porto.

While top vintage Vintage Ports often age for several decades, these SQVP's tend to last a decade or two so at forty years of age, this was pushing the limits of its aging window. Furthermore, the bottle and cork showed some signs of seepage although I don't recall ever noticing this in the cellar. Lastly, upon decanting, there was no less than a half a cup of sediment resembling coffee grounds in the bottom of the bottle. 

This was a bit lean in body and the color was a bit opaque and showed tones of rust color with an orangish hue. It had a big aromatic nose and flavors of intense concentrated black berries, black raspberry, and anise, with tones of cloves, cedar and touch of smoke with a big strong layer of high alcohol. It open immediately and continued to soften throughout the evening. It was drinkable and a tribute to our 1974 anniversary celebration but clearly nearing its end of life.  

Two nights later this was smooth and nicely balanced and resembled a moderate cognac which we enjoyed with some caramel, chocolate and berries. 

RM 85 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=36107

Taylor Fladgate Vintage Porto Quinta de Vargellas 1995

Lyle is a big port enthusiast and he matched my Taylor Fladgate with this vintage selection. 

Dark ruby colored, medium bodied, intense berry, dried raisins, fig with layers of cedar and anise with a long fruity, alcohol laced finish. 

RM 88 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=19047




The OTBN crew and their wine contributions to the flight are pictured below.

The hosts - Bill and Beth. 



 The author/blogger of unwindwine blogspot.



Thursday, February 17, 2011

Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 - Montelena, Hall, Trefethen - Fleming's Steak House - By the Glass Offerings

Three current release Napa cabs available by the glass at Fleming's Steak House, Tyson's Corner, Mclean, VA.

Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2007 - RM 91 points: Very approachable for being so young - drinking great right now - deep purple-garnet color - medium-full bodied. Full forward flavors of black raspberry, black cherry, currant, hints of spice and dark chocolate. Great complement to the Portobello Mushroom Ravioli. This wine represents a good value. - http://cellartracker.com/w?875375

Chateau Montelena Estate Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2007 - RM 89 points: Dark, full bodied - firm, complex black berry, black cherry fruits with hint of tobacco, tar and anise. Somewhat tight and closed - needs time. This would no doubt go well with a juicy steak. Parker gave this wine a 94 indicating its potential in a few years, noting it should be cellared for five years and should last for thirty years. - http://cellartracker.com/w?617461

Trefethen Double T Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 - RM 87 points: Medium bodied - cherry and berry fruit flavors, hint of spice - a bit austere/lean on the structure.  -  http://cellartracker.com/w?788206