Cerbaia Brunello di Montalcino BYOB at Angeli’s Italian

Cerbaia Brunello di Montalcino BYOB at Angeli’s Italian 

We dined at  Angelis Italian, our favorite neighborhood Italian Trattoria and I took this Brunello di Montalcino BYOB for the occasion.

Readers of these pages know we don't do a lot of Italian wines but we do keep a selection in our cellar for Italian cuisine and dining at Angelis Italian which we do fairly frequently.

Tonight, we took this new arrival Limited Production Brunello di Montalcino which I just picked up at Binny's, our beverage super store at the suggestion of the wine advisor there, based on its stellar 98 point rating, and was eager to try. While I didn't give it such stellar ratings, we enjoyed it a lot and I went back to pick up a few more bottles. It was a perfect pairing with Linda's eggplant and my cheese ravioli with bolognese sauce and meatballs.

We love Sangiovese and most of our Italian cellar selections are that varietal, which we love paired with Italian cuisine. The Brunello di Montalcino label is tightly regulated and can only be made from 100% Sangiovese grapes grown in the Montalcino region of Tuscany, Italy. 

Appellation regulations also limit the quantity of wine produced each year and mandate a Long Aging Process which stipulate Brunello must be aged for a minimum of four years, with at least two years spent in oak barrels. This lengthy aging process that ties up resources and increases production costs contributes to the higher price point of the label.

The rigorous production regulations set by the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium ensure that only the highest quality wines bear the Brunello label. This commitment to quality often requires additional investment in vineyard management, winemaking techniques, and quality control.

Brunello has gained a reputation as one of Italy's finest wines, prized for its complexity, depth, and ability to age gracefully. Its prestigious status and limited availability contribute to high demand and, consequently, higher prices.

This is from Cerbaia, a boutique winery that produces wines from some of the finest vineyards in Montalcino that are a true expression of a unique and distinctive place. 

The Cerbaia property has belonged to the Pellegrini family since the 1950s, with the family beginning to make wine in the 1970’s. The estate covers of a total of 35 acres of land, 11 of which are under the Brunello appellation controls, located on the highly regarded Montosoli Hill, known as the Grand Cru of Montosoli — some of the most coveted land in Tuscany.

In 2014, Elena Pellegrini gave up a promising career in corporate finance to devote herself to her family estate, striving to craft elegant, balanced wines in the traditional Montalcino style as her father Fabio did, applying minimal intervention and sustainable practices. She is advised by notable consulting enologist G.Gorelli, Italy’s first Master of Wine.

Their 2019 release was awarded 98-points by James Suckling who declared it “one of the best I have had from here” in his  review. Kerin O`Keefe of www.kerinokeefe.com gave it 94 Points.

The 2019 is emerging as an all-time great year in Montalcino: Vinous called it “the vintage we’ve all been waiting for.” Kerin O’Keefe, who wrote THE book on Brunello, said “I’ve never tasted so many drop-dead-gorgeous young Brunellos from a single vintage.” Wine Advocate called the vintage “uniformly easy” for vintners.

The release was aged three years in large oak casks ensured that it would be polished and beautiful from day one.

Winemaker Notes - Intense ruby red in color, garnet with aging. Rich and intense bouquet of violets, undergrowth, red fruits, eucalyptus, and blackberry. Very long persistence, fresh, and elegant but complex.

Bright ruby garnet colored, medium full bodied, vibrant blackberry and black cherry fruits with notes of dusty rose, tobacco, dried herbs and leather with hints of truffle with bright acidity on a smooth polished tannin finish. 

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4577891

David Arthur Napa Valley Meritaggio 2006

David Arthur Napa Valley Meritaggio ideal pairing with spaghetti bolognese sauce

Following the delightfully delicious food and wine pairing of a Super Tuscan Blend with spaghetti bolognese tomato sauce the other evening, I was driven to pull from the cellar this unique Napa Valley Super Tuscan Blend for a comparison tasting. 

When I first discovered and purchased David Arthur Meritaggio back in 1997 I didnt think of it as a Super Tuscan Italian Blend. But then that terminology or moniker had not been invented yet, or certainly hadn't gained the notoriety it has today. But, the concept of a Napa Valley Sangiovese was intriguing, especially when blended with Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon! 

Two decades later, we've developed a fond appreciation for Sangiovese, the varietal of Tuscany and its famous Brunello di Montalcino, and the increasing propensity to blend Sangiovese with Bordeaux varietals into what is today popularly called a "Super Tuscan" (from Montalcina, Tuscany, Italy).

Yet, it is rare to find Napa Valley Sangiovese, and more rare to find A Sangiovese Bordeaux varietal, or Super Tuscan Blend. Alas, David Arthur Meritaggio. The whimsical name Meritaggio is a brilliant play on words applying an Italian syllable to the traditional word 'Meritage' which is a licensed term to denote a US wine produced from Bordeaux varietals.

Sanviovese and Cabernet blends came into fashion in the 1960s and 1970s as producers from Tuscany began to experiment with the Bordeaux varietals. The results become legendary and these Super Tuscans as they came to be known now make up some of Italy's most famous wines. 

One of the most famous Tuscan producers was a pioneer in planting Bordeaux varietals in Tuscany, but went all the way to producing a Bordeaux Blend foregoing the historic traditional Tuscan varietals of Sangiovese and Nebbiolo. Our Pour Boys wine group attended a spectacular memorable dinner of the ultra-premium Sassicaia with the owner producer at a special dinner at legendary Italian Village Vivere Restaurant, Chicago, for a Vertical Tasting of the iconic label back in 2019.

Never-the-less, true Super Tuscan wines are a blend of Bordeaux and Tuscan varietals, so, it is that I pulled this aged vintage Napa Valley "Super Tuscan" blend to compare with the authentic Super Tuscan of the other evening. Such a comparison cast a whole new light on such a tasting as the comparison was sharp with not surprising similarities in style and tasting profiles.

We finished up the bolognese sauce from the other evening as leftovers for dinner, paired with this red blend from one of our favorite Napa Valley producers. Our collection of David Arthur Cabernet Sauvignon spans two decades, with several vintages of this unique red blend spanning that period.    

Our visit to the David Arthur estate and vineyards was a highlight of our Napa Wine Experience in 2013 when we had two of the Long girls, wife Linda and sis-in-law Pat, along to visit the Long Family, estate (no relation) unfortunately. 

We continue to have fun with this label with family and friends, having married Ned Long's daughter, no relation whatsoever to the Long's, proprietors, owners and growers of David Arthur Napa Valley wines. 

The origins of David Arthur Vineyards and the Long Family Ranch date back to when the Long family started visiting the Napa Valley in the 1950’s. Don Long, a butcher by trade owned a small grocery store in Portola Valley, near Stanford University and had long been interested in the California wine country. With a keen eye for business opportunities, Don began steadily investing in Napa Valley real estate leading to the acquisition of nearly 1,000 acres atop Pritchard Hill in the Vaca Mountain range above St. Helena, California. Don’s youngest son, David Arthur, founded the winery with his then wife, Joye Dale, in 1985 with the purchase of 30 French oak barrels. David and Joye’s daughter, Laura Long, now works side by side with her father running the day-to-day operations of the winery and vineyards.

David Arthur "Meritaggio" Napa Valley Red Blend 2006

This Super-Tuscan style blend is comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon (77%), Sangiovese (21%) and Petit Verdot (2%), all sourced the from David Arthur estate vineyards (shown right). 

The fruit is all grown at the winery's Pritchard Hill vineyard, planted in 1978 at the southern end of the Vac mountain range overlooking the Napa Valley below. Indeed, their flagship ultra-premium label is called "Elevation 1147" denoting the elevation above sea level of their property and vineyards. 

This release was awarded 91 points by both Connoisseurs Guide and Wine Enthusiast. 

My tasting and cellartracker notes indicate we drank one of our four bottles of this label back in 2009, (prior to the launch and publishing of this blog). At that time I awarded this 93 points when I wrote, "Wow, this is good! Dark, medium bodied but full flavored - blast of currant, red raspberry and black berry turning to chocolate mocha and subtle tones of anise on the soft finish."

Like the Italian Super Tuscan from our recent tasting, this was a perfect wine-food pairing to the tangy beef bolognese tomato and herb sauce, enhancing the enjoyment of both.

Tonight, fourteen years after first tasting this wine, the fill level, foil, label and most importantly, the cork, were all in pristine condition. 

The wine was starting to show its age a bit with the dark garnet color taking on an ever so slight brownish hue, and the bright expressive fruits have taken on a bit more rustic tone with the tobacco and earthy notes becoming more pronounced, the medium-fill bodied, concentrated, complex black currant and blackberry fruits accented by spice, anise and hints of mint and pepper with smooth soft acidity and chewy tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=513915

https://www.davidarthur.com/

Super Tuscan at La Sorrella de Francesca

Tolaini Al Passo Super Tuscan at La Sorrella de Francesca 

Dear friends Beth and fellow Pour Boy Bill came into town to visit family and friends. We met and dined at La Sorrella de Francesca in Naperville. 

La Sorella is part of the Francesca’s Restaurant Group family of restaurants, founded in 1992 by Restaurateur Scott Harris, it has grown from one small Italian restaurant on Chicago’s North Clark Street to a group of six concepts across 23 locations in Chicagoland and a couple locations in California.

The original and primary brand of Francesca’s Restaurants are neighborhood Trattorias offering classic Italian favorites in an ambiance of sophisticated comfort, that have expanded to other brands within the historic Italian cuisine. 

In recent years they've also expanded the portfolio to Davanti Enoteca, a lively wine bar and restaurant with shareable  "contemporary twists on rustic Italian cuisine" and Disotto with the vive of a wine cellar in the Italian countryside. 

They've also gwoen beyond their Italian roots with Fat Rosie's Taco and Tequila Bar a family-friendly Mexican Taqueria featuring traditional Mexican fare with shareable small plates, and Joe's Imports offering modern Mediterranean noshes complemented by iworldly wines from curated from Joe's travels, and Vasili's hearth-cooked Mediterranean cuisine.

La Sorella de Francesca (sister of Francesca) has been a Naperville chic upscale staple for more than two decades in the lively burgeoning city center district. 

While the food was delicious, the wine list is somewhat limited and the atmosphere and ambiance is challenging with horrible acoustics that impedes basic conversation to shouting above the cacaphony of music, TV's and boisterous chatter.

For our entrees, Bill, Beth and I all selected the Mafaldine Pasta Bolognese - Fiore's mafalde - beef, pork, veal, tomato sauce, carrots, celery, onion and parmigiano. It was a perfect, delectable mix of pasta meat and cheese.

Linda selected for entree the Halibut Ippoglosso al Limone* - sautéed halibut with lemon white wine sauce, capers and sautéed spinach. It was equally delicious. 

From the winelist we ordered a Super Tuscan Merlot Sangiovese Blend as a pairing with dinner. 

Tolaini Al Passo Toscana 2019 

This is from the Tolaini estate winery and vineyards of founder Pier Luigi Tolaini. He envisioned owning such an estate when he left his Tuscan home for America as a young man, knowing that one day he would return, buy some land and make great wine.

Pier Luigi's search for a top Tuscan vineyard brought him to Chianti Classico, to the prestigious region of Castelnuovo Berardenga, and to the properties at Montebello and San Giovanni. When Pier Luigi first set foot on the amphitheatre - shaped vineyard at Montebello, he knew he had found the perfect balance of climate, soil, and exposure to establish the Tuscan Tolaini Estate winery and vineyards. The silty clay soil is rich in limestone with a high presence of stones. The wine plantings were completed in the spring of 2000

The vast and diverse Chianti Classico region of Tuscany stretches from the suburbs of Florence in the north to the outskirts of Siena in the south. As a result of the diverse varying soil, altitude, exposure and micro-climate, within the zone, many argue that it should be divided into subzones, or into communes, as in the Médoc [Bordeaux, France]. If this were the case, the wines from Castelnuovo Berardenga, the southernmost commune, would be the Pauillac of Chianti, for the wines have power, intensity and, at their best, great elegance and longevity.

Wine production in the area dates back more than 3000 years when Tuscany was home to the Etruscan civilization, a people noted for their culture and wine.

The name Al Passo is a derived from the term describing a small circular forest with an interior passage ("al passo") which sits at the highest point of the Tolaini Estate vineyard with views of the towers of Siena, the town of Montalcino and Montepulciano to the east of the Tuscany wine region. It was there in Al Passo that Tolaini discovered and restored an ancient Etruscan tomb and ruins.

The inverted "Y" symbol that is in their branding logo and adorns their labels is taken from the ancient alphabet of the Etruscans and is equivalent to our modern letter "T". To honor the connection of the ancient with the modern, the symbol was chosen and is used to represent the Tolaini name and brand. The symbol is carved into a 3-meter high stone quarried from the vineyard and is also placed at the gate of the Estate.

The 2019 Tolaini Al Passo is a blend of 34% Sangiovese, 33% Merlot and 33% Cabernet Sauvignon. Such Blends that combine the native Sangiovese varietal grape of Chianti, Tuscany with traditional Bordeaux varietals are known as 'Super Tuscan's". 

 This release was rated 93 points by James Suckling, 92 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and 91 points by both Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast.

Al Passo 2020 was featured by Wine Spectator's picks in "9 Stylish Tuscan Reds".

Winemaker Notes - Spicy notes of oak rise above distinct aromas of cherry and berry. The palate has a backbone of Sangiovese, a roundness of Merlot and enhanced body from the Cabernet Sauvignon. The fruit purity and varietal signatures are testament to the meticulous care given to the vines. Note: Some sediment may occur in the bottom of the bottle as the wine is not filtered.

This was bright garnet colored, medium full bodied, firm and tightly structured blackberry iand blackcherry fruits wth notes of black pepper, herbs, cedar and hints of cinnamon spice with pointed acidity on the chewy tannins on the lingering finish. 

RM 89 points 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4339636

https://www.tolaini.it/en/ 

https://twitter.com/TolainiWines

https://www.miafrancesca.com/location/mia-francesca-la-sorella-di-francesca/

https://twitter.com/Mia_Francesca