Duck Inn (Chicago) Pour Boys Wine Group Dinner

Duck Inn (Chicago) Pour Boys Wine Group Dinner

An abbreviated group of the Chicagoland contingent of our Pour Boys Wine Group met for dinner at Duck Inn, Chicago. 

The Duck Inn was opened in Chicago’s near south side Bridgeport neighborhood by Chef Kevin Hickey in 2014.

Previously Kevin worked with Four Seasons in Dublin, London and Atlanta before coming back to his native Chicago in 2004 — first at The Ritz Carlton Hotel as Executive Chef and eventually the Four Seasons Chicago as Executive Chef & Restaurant Director where he led his team to two consecutive Michelin Stars, the only Four Seasons Chef to receive Michelin Stars in North America and AAA Five Diamond status with the restaurant Seasons. He eventually opened the acclaimed restaurant, Allium.

In November 2015, The Duck Inn was named one of the “Best New Restaurants in America” by Esquire Magazine, named as one of the Top 10 restaurants in America by USA Today and chosen as Restaurant of the Year by Eater Chicago. The Chicago Tribune named Kevin Hickey, Chef of The Year for 2015. To date, The Duck Inn has been awarded the coveted Bib Gourmand by Michelin for six consecutive years.

We ordered from the menu a their two signature offerings to share - Rotisserie Duck with Foie Gras, and the All Natural Ribeye Beefsteak with Fries.

Peach Wellington - Duck and Foie Gras Sausage with duxelles Italian black truffle, klug farm peaches and peach jus …

And finally, no visit to Duck Inn is complete without trying their famous Duck Inn Dogs, their tribute to the classic Chicago Hot Dog. Made with all-natural beef and duck fat in a hog casing and grilled to a perfect snap, their dog is topped with all the classic ingredients of a Chicago dog. 

We brought from our respective cellars a flight of red wines to pair with the diverse food courses. 

As customary, when we bring BYOB, we share with the Sommelier, Chef, or in this case the owner/proprietor and Chef Kevin Hickey, who, as always, was enthusiastic and eager to taste. 

Sea Smoke "Southing" Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2013

Dan brought this from his cellar from his wine club allocation of this popular ultra-premium label from Sea Smoke, one of the Central Coast's cult Pinot producers. 

Sta. Rita Hills is the coolest, westernmost sub-region of the larger Santa Ynez Valley appellation within Santa Barbara County. This relatively new AVA produces highly rated Chardonnay and Pinot Noir due to the cool climate effects of the ocean breezes and well-drained, limestone-rich calcareous soil. 

The unique geography there is such that the mountain ranges lie perpendicular to the coast rather than parallel, so the Pacific marine layer fog and breezes sweep regularly into through the valley. 

The Southing label is sourced entirely from the Sea Smoke Estate Vineyard in the Sta. Rita Hills of Santa Barbara County. 

This is aged  16 months in 55% new French oak barrels.

This release was awarded 94 points by Wine Enthusiast and 90 points by Wine Spectator.

Bright Ruby Colored, medium bodied, ripe black raspberry and hints of strawberry and black cherry fruits accented by notes of mocha, cinnamon, spice, dusty rose and hints of cola.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?2044703


Domaine Vieux Telegraph Chateauneuf du Pape 2015

Lyle brought from his cellar this highly rated Rhône Blend. 

Our visit to Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe was a highlight of our trip to France and Provence and  Châteauneuf-du-Pape, one of  the most renowned wine producing area in the Southern Rhône River Valley. 

We blogged a few prior to and in our preparation for the trip and and our visit and then featured our visit to Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe. Châteauneuf-du-Pape in a blogpost at the time. 

That was a return visit for me as I visited Vieux Télégraphe during my tour to Châteauneuf-du-Pape back in 1998.

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is a leading producer in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and their flagship and signature label La Crau is one of the most celebrated grand cru of the southern Rhône.

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe "La Crau" Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2015

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/07/domaine-du-vieux-telegraphe-chateauneuf.html

This much heralded release was awarded 96 points by James Suckling, 95 points by Wine Spectator, 94 points by Wine Advocate, 93 points by Jeb Dunnuck, and 92-94 points by Vinous.

Suckling said it best - “An array of red, blue and purple fruits. Gently spicy, chalky and fragrant, it has a very supple, fleshy and layered palate with a web of fine, smooth and supple tannins. Extremely elegant and composed. A long draw on the finish. Great depth and drive.” 

Wine Spectator said best from 2020 through 2035. Wine Advocate said It should drink well for up to 20 years. The fruit seemed somewhat subdued when compared to brighter the Force Majeure, perhaps we drank this too soon but at nine years it should be at a point to reveal its true nature and character. 

The flagship wine of the estate, as always, sourced from the oldest vines of the estate on la Crau,  the 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape, is a blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah and 5% other permitted varieties. 

Bright ruby-red. medium to full-bodied, floral on opening, ripe red and dark berries, kirsch, licorice, white pepper, smoky mineral overtone, hints of mocha chocolate on the long, silky finish laced with fine chewy gripping tannins.

RM 92 points. 

Force Majeure Parvata (GSM) Red Blend 2017

In light of Lyle bringing the VT CDP, I brought from our cellar this American version of the Rhône Blend, acquired from our wine club allocation. 

We discovered this wine during our visit to the Force Majeure estate and vineyards during our Walla Walla Wine Experience back in 2018. 

Like the Vieux Telegraph, this was a blend of the classic Rhône varietals - 42% Mourvèdre, 25% Grenache, 23% Syrah, 5% Counoise, and 4% Cinsault, all sourced from vineyards in the Columbia Valley Washington, Red Mountain Appellation. Indeed, Parvata means “mountain” in sanskrit, and hence is the name for Force Majeure's southern Rhône style blend, grown in the sandy, loamy soils of the lower section of the Red Mountain vineyard.

This was aged in 25% new French oak, mostly 400- and 500-liter barrels.

This too was highly rated getting 95 points from jebdunnuck.com and Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, and 92 points from Vinous. 

Unlike the VT CDP with its long storied history over several generations, this is just the third vintage of this cuvée, first released in 2015.

Stephen Tanzer said, “Still a bit youthfully rigid today and in need of a year or two of patience.” 

Bright ruby-red, full bodied, expressive, vibrant, powerful, dense with an intense core of fresh ripe red, black and blue fruits, accented by spice, bitter dark chocolate, licorice and oak, finishing with ripe, fine-grained tannins on a long lingering finish. 

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?3519567

https://forcemajeurevineyards.com/

https://theduckinnchicago.com/menus/

Plumpjack Founders Reserve Cabernet - Seasmoke Chardonnay - Paul Misset Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes

Plumpjack Founders Reserve Napa Cabernet - Seasmoke Chardonnay -
Paul Misset Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru

Fellow Pour Boy, wine buddy, Dr Dan and Linda came over for a wine dinner evening and I pulled from the cellar this vintage release Premium Napa Cabernet for the occasion. We tasted and acquired this wine during a visit to the Plumpjack estate on Oakville Crossing Road in central Napa Valley back in 1999. During that trip we hosted several winemaker dinners including one at Meadowood Resort featuring Mary Pisor, then winemaker for Plumpjack (below). We also visited Nils Venge Saddleback Vineyards who was consulting winemaker to Plumpjack in the early years. 

PlumpJack, in Oakville, was founded by Gordon Getty, the San Francisco composer and philanthropist, and Gavin Newsom, Governor of California back when he was mayor of San Francisco. 

The entrepreneurs initially opened a wine shop in San Francisco in 1992 called PlumpJack, a reference to Shakespeare’s character Sir John Falstaff, who enjoyed food and wine. The partners then founded PlumpJack winery in 1997 when they acquired 53 acres of vineyards on Oakville Cross Road. 

The PlumpJack Group expanded investment holdings in to resorts, hotels, restaurants and spas. 

Governor Newsom's father, Bill, was a lifelong friend of Gordon Getty, the son of oil magnate J. Paul Getty going back to their early years when they attended high school together. Bill Newsom later managed the Getty family trust on behalf of Gordon, estimated by Forbes to be worth more than $2 billion in 2018. Bill Newsom was so close with the family that he helped deliver the ransom money after the  famous 1973 kidnapping of J. Paul Getty’s grandson, John Paul Getty III. The Gettys’ have been instrumental patrons and supporters of Newsom and have played an important role in Gavin Newsom’s personal, professional and political life.

Plumpjack winery specializes in premium Cabernet Sauvignon, though it also makes Merlot, Chardonnay and a Syrah. Robert M. Parker Jr. notes that all the PlumpJack wines “are fabulous, thanks to the brilliant efforts of winemaker Tony Biagi and consultant Nils Venge.” 

Interestingly, a bit of wine world trivia: PlumpJack was the first Napa Valley producer to use screw caps in the packaging in 2000, starting with the their high end Founders Reserve flagship premium label. 

The PlumpJack estate winery and vineyards sit in the heart of Napa Valley’s renowned Oakville Appellation (AVA), surrounded by the 42-acre estate vineyard which has become highly regarded for the quality of its Cabernet Sauvignon. 

The winery building and the vineyard date back to the 1800s, when winemaking pioneers first took advantage of a unique position on the valley floor. The east side of the vineyard lies along the foothills of the Vaca mountain range and yields grapes with the kind of bold fruit character that comes from well-draining hillside soils. The western boundary of the estate lies in the Napa River flood zone. Here the vines take root in rich, deep clay soils, for grapes with softer, more supple varietal character. 

Oakville AVA is one of the two or three most prestigious appellations in the United States. Located in the heart of Napa Valley, it consists of 5,000 vineyard acres that produce some of the world’s most acclaimed Cabernet Sauvignon, including such California “cult” Cabs such as Screaming Eagle and Harlan Estate. 

Even before those boutique producers rose to fame in the 1990s, Oakville was already renowned as home to Robert Mondavi, Opus One and Groth Vineyards, among others. Along with the famous wineries, there are premier vineyards in the AVA, including Martha’s Vineyard and To Kalon Vineyard. To Kalon was first planted in 1868 by H.W. Crabb, one of California’s first viticultural researchers. He named the vineyard after the ancient Greek phrase for “most beautiful.” 

The Oakville appellation is ideal and favorable to the Bordeaux varietals and is best known for Cabernet Sauvignon, however Merlot, and white varietals Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are also frequently planted. Oakville Cabernets are noted for their richness, complexity and weight. 

Oakville was designated as an AVA in 1993.  

We visited the Plumpjack Oakville Estate vineyards and winery again during our Napa Valley Wine Experience 2018 (below).

We served a  flight of artisan cheeses including Old Amsterdam, English Shropshire Blue, and Delice Borgnogne Brie, now available and distributed by none other than Murray's Cheese from NYC Greenwich Village Bleaker Street. 

From his cellar, Dan brought a Burgundy and Chardonnay which were ideal with the cheese and then salad course and the transition to the beefsteak dinner entree.  

SeaSmoke Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay 2013

Dr Dan brought from his cellar this limited production highly allocated estate Seasmoke Sta Rita Hills Chardonnay. He is in their wineclub and receives this label as part of his allocation. 

This release got 95 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and 92 points from Wine Enthusiast.

This was wonderful, ideal with the artisan cheeses before dinner.

Golden colored, medium-full bodied, rich, warm nicely integrated white peach, stone and citrus fruits with layers of floral, buttery oak and slate minerality with nice balance of oak and acid on the full mouthfeel lingering finish. Wine Enthusiast describes "its touching intriguingly on sweet Maui onion and finishing with light vanilla-custard flavor".

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2044704

https://www.seasmoke.com/ 

Domaine Paul Misset Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru 2009

This was an ideal transition from the cheese and salad to the beefsteak entrees. 

As I often write in these pages, I am not a pinot guy, and hence probably don't give this the reverence or appreciation that it deserves. 

Bright ruby colored, medium bodied, tangy black cherry and red berry fruits with notes of perfume, dusty rose, asian spice and hints of pomegranate on a lingering finish. 

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1462329

Linda prepared grilled rib-eye beefsteaks with baked potatoes, an ideal pairing for the aged Oakville Cabernet. Dinner was preceded by Ceasar salad and followed by Linda's signature chocolate mousse with notes of expresso served with fresh berries. 

Plumpjack Founders Reserve Napa Cabernet 1996

Linda and I visited the Plumpjack estate and winery during our Napa Valley Wine Experience 2018. We tasted the current release of this label and they had on offer this vintage release in the library, available for the asking. 

At twenty five years, the wine fill level, bottle foil capsule, label and cork were in pristine condition, further testament to the ideal conditions in our cellar for long term aging, having held this bottle since acquisition on release. 

Dark inky purple colored, medium-full bodied, at twenty five years the fruits are somewhat subdued with the blackberry giving way to notes of cassis, hints of creosote and smoke with a moderate acid firm but smooth tannin laced lingering finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/notes.asp?iWine=23912

https://plumpjackwinery.com/

https://twitter.com/plumpjackwinery

@PlumpJackWinery