Luigi’s Italian Chophouse, Fayetteville (NC)

Fantastic Italian Dining at Luigi’s Italian Chophouse, Fayetteville (NC)

Moving on, from our visit to Raleigh (NC), we traveled to Fayetteville (NC) to visit the in-law’s and their extended family for a mini-family reunion of the three senior Long siblings. Brother (in-law) Jeff was an Army Airborne Ranger so we visited the Army Airborne & Special Operations Museum.

That evening we dined at Luigi’s Italian Chophouse Restaurant in Fayetteville. . 

Everyone is used the typical Italian Restaurant with the customary predictable menu of standard Italian Specialty dishes. We were blown away by Luigi’s sensational food, extensive informative wine list, and attentive capable service! 

Luigi’s is owned and operated by Nicholas Parrous who also serves as Wine Director and executive chef. 

From Luigi’s menu we had what would be considered typical ‘benchmark’ dishes that we’re accustomed to ordering at other frequently visited restaurants. In each case, Luigi’s not only vastly exceeded our expectations, but in some cases served the best ever entree. 

Such was the case with the Seabass, Eggplant Parmagana, Fettucino Alfredo and the Veal Piccata. 

I was treated to the Luigi’s Veal Piccata - Certified Dutch Veal top round sliced, pounded thin, seasoned and lightly breaded in a Parmesan crust, prepared with sauteed garlic, lemon and capers. And, a side of Luigi’s sensational extraordinary Fettuccine Alfredo - Heavy cream, butter, imported Romano cheese.

I was tempted to order the Chilean Sea Bass but was certain it would be a disappointment when compared to the fabulous seabass entry we’ve been enjoying at home at our regular eatery Entourage. To the contrary Linda and Pat ordered, combined and shared the Pan Seared Chilean Sea Bass and thought it was exceptional, and the best ever (I still favor the Entourage preparation)! The Sea Bass was a 7oz fresh filet, seasoned and lightly floured, pan seared and served over a bed of sautéed baby and topped sweet caramelized onions. They ordered along with the Eggplant Parmigiana - Fresh eggplant lightly seasoned and fried, topped with Marinara sauce and melted Provolone Cheese. They also enjoyed the Eggplant immensely, rating as best ever.  

Luigi’s boasts a respectable Wine Spectator Best of Award winning wine list, awarded each year since 2003. Luigi’s wine cellar holds an inventory of 2200 bottles of 295 different labels with primary emphasis being Italian with broad coverage of California as well. Their Wine Spectator Awards are proudly, prominently displayed in the main lobby. Their 51 page wine list is not only extensive but informative, with reviews and commentaries on many of the wines. Wines are moderately and fairly priced for great value dining.  

From the wine list we ordered this highly acclaimed Brunello. 

Mastro Janni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2018

This is from Mastro Janni in Castelnuovo dell’Abate, in the municipality of Montalcino. The estate is near the historic Abbey of Sant’Antimo that dates back to the end of the 8th century.

In Castelnuovo dell’Abate, at the far southeastern corner of Montalcino, Mastrojanni is owned by part of the Illy Coffee family and has a prestigious hotel and villas as part of the estate. The estate is run by Francesco Illy. 

The 270 acre estate is planted to 100 acres of Vineyards in 37 vineyard plots that stretch to the South, Southeast, and Southwest where the proximity to the Orcia River on the eastern boundary, and the Mount Amiata,  an ancient dormant volcano that rises to 1,738 meters, creates a unique microclimate ideally suited to vinifera. 

The “silent giant” Monte Amiata plays a crucial role in shaping the microclimate with cool breezes that descend from its slopes at night to refresh the vines, while during the day, the updrafts generated by the sun along its sides often divert storms, protecting the vineyards.

The thirty-seven vineyard plots are planted to Sangiovese, Cabernet, Moscato Bianco, Malvasia di C., Sauvignon blanc, Trebbiano Toscano and Ciliegiolo, with the largest allotment, 47 acres, planted to the native Sangiovese. 

The terroir in the Castelnuovo dell’Abate area consists of a mosaic of complex soils. The vineyards sit at  altitudes ranging from 180 to 420 meters above the sea level. The remaining land hosts wooded areas, olive groves (around 800 trees), orchards and a vegetable garden that keep the biodiversity of the area alive.

Since 1975, two particular plots are vinified individually and bottled as single vineyard designated labels, an early approach for its time. The two vineyards Vigna Schiena d’Asino and Vigna Loreto represent the best, most acclaimed Mastrojanni production.

This is 100% estate Sangiovese vinified and produced according to Brunello di Momtalcino DOCG specifications.

I’ve written often in these pages about Brunello and what makes it so special. They are sourced from the Italian appellation of Brunello di Montalcino, regarded as one of Italy’s best appellations. Located in south central Tuscany below Chianti, the wines of Brunello di Montalcino DOCG are made of a Sangiovese clone called “brunello,” which means “little dark one,” a reference to the brown tones in the skin of the grape. Unlike some Tuscan appellations that allow other grapes to be blended with Sangiovese, Brunello di Montalcino appellation rules require 100% Sangiovese.

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG has to be made 100% with Sangiovese grapes alone, and made only within the Montalcino municipality area. It can only be sold in the market from January 1 of its fifth year after harvest. Prior to that, the wine cannot legally be called Brunello di Montalcino (not even in the cellar): it is simply "red wine to become Brunello di Montalcino DOCG".

Montalcino is a picturesque, hill-top town that was not especially well known for wine production until the mid-19th century, when a local vineyard owner isolated the brunello clone and planted it. Other growers followed suit. Nevertheless it wasn’t until the 1970s that wine enthusiasts started paying attention to Brunello di Montalcino, which by then was becoming an outstanding wine.

Today there are 120 estates in the DOCG, up from about 25 estates in 1975. Brunellos in general are bigger, darker, more tannic and more powerful wines than Chiantis or most other Sangioveses. By law they must be aged for four years, and two of those years must be in wooden barrels.

Mastro Janni’s 47 acres of Brunello are harvested and vinified by individual parcels before ageing in large French oak casks. Winemakers for Mastro Janni are Giulia Härri and Piero Ferretti. 

This 2018 release was awarded 93 points by Wine Advocate, The Wine Independent and. Wine Spectator, and 92 points by Decanter, Vinous and Wine Enthusiast, and 91 by James Suckling. 

The bottle is packaged with a red wax seal affixed to the front of the bottle.

Producer notes …  Brunello di Montalcino 2018 - “The color is bright and brilliant ruby red and it shows the typical aroma of ripe plum and berries notes that blend with a fragrant spiciness, balsamic hints and touches of blond tobacco. In the mouth the wine unfolds tonic and dynamic, supported by fine and elegant tannins which, together with a juicy acidity, leads to a finish of savory and mineral persistence.” 

“Nose - Intriguing nose in its young classicity, stands out ripe fruity notes embellished with a variegated spice flavor.’ 

“Palate - It offers itself with frankness with an intense entrance that ends pleasantly tannic and savory.’ 

“Colour - Brillant Ruby Red with garnet reflections.” - Francesco Illy

Grape variety 100% Sangiovese (Brunello) Barrel aging 36 months in 16-33-54 hl barrels made of Allier oak. Production was 70.000 bottles.

Dark ruby colored, medium full bodied, rich, round bright vibrant expressive ripe sweet dark cherry, plum and currant fruits with notes of savory spices, earth, black truffles, stony minerals and hints of smoke turning to round dusty tannins on the lingering finish. 

RM 92 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4481416

https://mastrojanni.com/en/

https://www.luigisnc.com/

Ducru Beaucaillou & Bollinger La Grande Année at Joseph’s Steakhouse Iowa City

Ducru Beaucaillou & Bollinger La Grande Année at Joseph’s Steakhouse Iowa City 

We traveled with son Ryan and his family to Iowa City, IA to tour his alma mater, the University of Iowa. 

Ryan gave us and the kids/grandkids a campus and town tour that included the spectacular sports facilities - Kinnick Football stadium, Carver-Hawkeye Basketball Arena and adjacent sports facilities, and the world class Medical School and Hospital Complexes. 

We then toured the academic campus, most notably the Tippe School of Business that Ryan attended, the Memorial Union and the historic campus, old state capital building and adjacent museum. 

We then toured the city center with its ped mall, shops, boutiques, restaurants and of course, campus bars. 

A highlight was dinner at Joseph’s Steakhouse downtown, a short walk from our hotel. 

For our dinner entrees, we ordered steaks, petit filet, ribeye and Waygu Beef sirloins. Each was served with whipped potatoes and asparagus spears with Demi-glaze au jus.  All were high quality delicious cuts of beef, superbly prepared and presented. 

Linda and Michelle both ordered one of the house specialities, Ribeye Filet & Fettuccine - house-made pasta, roasted mushrooms, sauteed kale, roasted garlic, demi-glace, with white truffle butter. This was delicious and perhaps the best choice, most likely my choice for next time if we have the opportunity to visit again. 

We ordered a side order of the Fresh Sourdough Bread and the Brussel Sprouts & Bacon. 

For the special outing festive dinner, I brought BYOB from our home cellar an aged birthyear vintage bottle of Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou 1983 commemorating D-in-law Michelle’s birthyear. 

We also ordered from the extensive Joseph’s Wine List a bottle of vintage Bollinger La Grande Année Brut Champagne 2014. 

https://josephs-steak.com/wine/

Château Ducru Beaucaillou St Julien Bordeaux 1983 

Our visit to the magnificent historic Château Ducru Beaucaillou estate, vineyards, winery and cellars was one of the highlights of our trip to St Julien back in 2018 featured in these pages in this post - A visit to Château Ducru Beaucaillou - (https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/08/ducru-beaucaillou.html). 

We hold an extensive collection of Ducru dating back four decades. We served Château Ducru Beaucaillou at our kid’s, Erin and Ryan’s weddings, from large format Jeroboam and Double Magnum bottles. This bottle is one of the few last remaining in our cellar from this vintage. 

Robert Parker awarded this release 98+ points saying upon release, “this is a blockbuster, fabulous Ducru Beaucaillou that should be at its best a good decade from now and last 40-50 years. The proprietor is not alone in thinking this is the finest Ducru Beaucaillou since the 1961.” This is saying a lot given the 1982 vintage was considered one of the best of the century for the region. 

Julien Graves of Boutellier Wines awarded this release 95 points. This release was awarded 94 points by reviewer John Gilman and was considered one of the finest wines of the vintage on either bank of the Gironde and ‘still has several decades of fine drinking ahead of it, now entering its peak period”. 

Amazingly, at 42 years, the fill level was customary lower neck (shown left), the label and foil were pristine, and the cork, while intact and complete, was starting to soften and pulled apart at the bottom of the grip of my Ahso two pronged cork puller, as the extended length cork was longer than the prongs of the implement. 

Upon opening, we decanted this before serving. 

Had we allowed the server to extract the cork using typical means of a corkscrew, it wouldn’t most assuredly disintegrated, or at least pulled apart. She was happy and intrigued to watch me use my ahso, with which I was able to remove the cork gracefully, including the separated tip. She had never seen such a device, nor did the restaurant have one for such occasions. 

Drinking very nicely, still within its drinking window, but likely starting to diminish here forward. 

Slightly opaque garnet colored, medium full bodied, classic St Julien characteristics of structured, tannin laced backbone, yet, pure, elegant and polished, complex and nicely balanced, bright dark berry and black cherry and currant fruits with notes of tobacco, dried roses, wet rock and gravel with hints of creosote and cassis, turning to polished tannins on the smooth, soft, lingering finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2922

https://chateau-ducru-beaucaillou.com/en

Bollinger, La Grande Année, Brut, Champagne, FR, 2014

This is one of Ryan’s favorite producers/labels. Champagne Bollinger produce this special limited release La Grande Année label only in exceptional harvest years, made only from Grand and Premier cru grapes.

La Grande Année is “the embodiment of the carefully preserved traditional expertise of Champagne Bollinger, vinified in oak barrels, sealed with natural cork and riddled by hand, then aged patiently for 10 years in Bollinger’s chalky cellars”.

La Grande Année 2014 is a blend  sourced from 19 crus (vineyards), mostly in Aÿ and Verzenay, for the 61% Pinot Noir, and Chouilly and Oiry for the 39% Chardonnay.

We toured the region and the Bollinger vineyards with son Alec during our Champagne Wine Experience back in 2006 - ((https://mcnees.org/travelsite/trips/champagne/champagne.htm), prior to publishing these pages).

To remove the sediment deposit that forms over the years of aging, they invented the very unique method of riddling: gently and gradually moving the bottle to progressively remove the sediment and guide it into the neck of the bottle, to be disgorged during the bottling process. 

This release was awarded 98 points by Antonio Galloni, 97 points by Alison Napjus and 96 points by Richard Juhlin. 

Winemaker’s tasting notes on this release - “Tinted with golden glints that reflect the wine’s maturity and Bollinger vinification.’ 

“A precise and fruity nose with a slight scent of sea-air. Aromas of cherry and lemon mingle with quince and bergamot. Then notes of hazelnut and almond, peach and mirabelle plum complete this wine’s range of aromas.’

“The initial sensation is a fine and intense effervescence, followed by a wonderful vinosity, and then balanced with delicate acidity. Its very fine texture and sea-air finish bring excellent length on the palate, accompanied by a delicate minerality and the complex flavours of orchard fruit and citrus. This wine unfurls gradually, revealing its full potential and intensity.”

RM 96 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4254330

https://www.champagne-bollinger.com/en/the-collection/grande-annee/

For dessert we enjoyed the Joseph’s CRÈME BRÛLÉE and BREAD PUDDING.

https://josephs-steak.com/

Aged vintage wines for family birthday dinner

Aged vintage wines for family birthday dinner 

The family gathered at our house for a gala celebration dinner for my upcoming birthday. 

We grilled out cowboy tomahawk ribeye steaks and bbq baby back ribs, and scallops, accompanied by salad, baked beans, mashed potatoes, grilled asparagus and Mac-n-cheese (for the kids). 

The cooks, (above) Linda, master chef, and Ryan, griller and carver - naturally absent, missing from the family photo above, (as is Reid who was playing ball out in the yard with friends). 

Grilled scallops on herb buttered toast points 

For a wine accompaniment I pulled from the cellar a Sauvignon Blanc and a Chardonnay for the whites and two aged vintage big reds wines for the beef and ribs, and an aged vintage dessert wine (also a birthyear vintage). 

I also selected several younger Right Bank Bordeaux varietal wines, in the event we went through the open bottles, or needed a back-up if the first choice wines were not up to par, due to age or other conditions.  Almost regrettably, we didn’t open those wines which I was looking forward to trying, hence they’ll be available for another day. 

LaJota Napa Valley Howell Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon 1990

La Jota Vineyards in Napa Valley date back to 1888 when winemaking pioneer W.S. Keyes planted some of the first vines on Howell Mountain. Ten years later his contemporary, Fredrick Hess, built a stone winery and established La Jota Vineyard Co., named for its location on the Mexican parcel Rancho La Jota. 

Both men won medals for their Howell Mountain wines in the Paris Exposition of 1900.

La Jota Vineyard Co. continues today as a boutique producer crafting small-production mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Chardonnay, sourced from the winery’s estate and from nearby W.S. Keyes Vineyard.

Today, Howell Mountain is known for Cabernet Sauvignon in Napa’s rugged northeastern hills with its volcanic ash soils deposited millenia ago by Mount Konocti. Howell Mountain itself is a weathered volcanic "knob" with two distinct soils: crumbly white decomposed volcanic ash known as rhyolitic tuff and red, iron-laden soils of clay and volcanic rock.

La Jota estate vines develop good root systems in these well-draining, porous, nutrient-lean soils, allowing them to self-regulate the amount of water they take in. And the nutrient lean soils force the vines to struggle to survive, forcing their energy to the fruit. The result is tiny berries and clusters with very high flavor concentration.

Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon was made famous by legendary wine maker Randy Dunn, who gained fame at Caymus in the 1970s and 1980s. Turning his attention to Howell Mountain, it became officially recognized as the first sub-region of Napa Valley in 1983. We visited the Dunn Vineyards estate up at Angwin on Howell Mountain during our Napa Valley Howell Mountain Wine Experience back in 2008. We were hosted by Kristina Dunn that day but we had the privilege to meet winemaker, producer, patriarch and Napa Valley pioneer Randy Dunn.

The Howell Mountain AVA includes 1,000 acres of vineyards interspersed by forestlands at the north end of the Vaca Mountain range that forms the eastern wall or Napa Valley. With vineyards at 1,400 to 2,000 feet in elevation, they sit above the fog line. The days on Howell Mountain remain cooler than those in the heart of the valley, giving the grapes a bit more time on the vine.

The soils, shallow and infertile with good drainage, are volcanic ash and red clay and produce highly concentrated berries with thick skins. The resulting wines are full of structure and potential to age.

We tasted the recent release of La Jota Howel Mtn Cabernet at the SoWal (Southwest Walton Beaches) Wine Festival in Destin, (FL) last year was one of the highlights of that event and we acquired their current release of this label at that time - Pour Boys gather for SoWal Wine Festival weekend in Destin.

Notably, LaJota was acquired by and is now part of the vast portfolio of Jackson Family Wines, who amassed a vast Billion dollar wine empire that now comprises some of the most storied labels, such as this. It was being presented by Jackson Wines at the SoWal festival. 

I wrote about Jess Jackson and the building of the family wine empire in earlier blogposts in these pages - most recently last month - La Crema Coastal Chardonnay with Homemade Chicken Piccata, and earlier, Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2018.

And, we’ve featured other vintages of this label in other notable tastings -Boy's Night Out Cellar Tours Wine Tasting, and Dad's Day Father Son Tasting Birthyear Wines.

Today, La Jota’s winemaker is Chris Carpenter, a graduate from the University of Illinois with a BS in biology, who also earned an MBA in Chicago before working various roles in the food and beverages industry. During those years in Chicago he developed a love of food and wine, and a network of colleagues in the business.

After a visit to Napa Valley in 1993, he decided to pursue a career in wine and went on to earn a Masters in Viticulture and Enology from the University of California, Davis. 

In 1998 he found himself working as the Assistant Winemaker at Cardinale where he learned making wines from mountain terroir. In 2005 he became the Winemaker for La Jota.

Tonight we opened this vintage 1990 release,  a birthyear vintage wine of son Alec, celebrating my birthday, and he and wife Vivianna expecting (grand) baby number three. 

This release was rated 92 points by Robert Parker back in 1993, when he wrote, this wine should “reach its apogee by the turn of the century and last 20 or more years”. 

At 35 years, it has held up remarkably well, despite the tattered label, the fill level and cork were still in great condition, considering their age. 

The wine showed no signs of diminution from aging and still well within its drinking window, albeit not likely to continue aging beyond a few more years. 

Winemaker Notes - “Where rivers, creeks and property lines usually define an AVA, the Howell Mountain boundaries are defined by a 1,400 foot elevation contour line as the lowest point and the highest vineyards at 2,400 feet above sea level. The vines share the mountain with pines, oaks, madrone and the easternmost stand of the coastal redwoods.”

Opaque garnet/purple colored, medium to full bodied, rich, round concentrated black berry and black currant fruits with notes of minerals, cassis, and classic Howell Mtn spices, with firm but approachable tannins on the lingering, what Wine Spectator calls “fleshy” finish.  

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?771991

https://www.lajotavineyardco.com/

Château du Domaine de l'Eglise Pomerol 1989

Château du Domaine de l'Eglise is a renowned producer of Right Bank Bordeaux wine, located in the commune of Pomerol, in the shadow of the church tower, and less than two kilometres, within walking distance, of notable producers Château Clinet (300m) and Château Petrus (900m). 

The Pomerol AOC (Appellation Originale Controllee) is located in the Libourne region on the Right Bank of the Dordogne River, just upstream from its confluence with the Isle. The town of Libourne, has a port that was used for exporting wines as far back as 1269. 

In the 1900s, winegrowers got together and made joint purchases. Working together, they set up a winegrowers’ and farmers’ union to improve their wine and protect the Pomerol appellation. The AOC area was defined in 1928, recognised in 1936 and revised in 2011.

Today, the Pomerol AOC is renowned for its great wines such as Pétrus, Trotanoy, Clinet, Petit Village and Gazin. The Pomerol appellation comprises around 800 hectares with 140 producers with an average of 6 hectares, producing 31,000 hectolitres of red wine a year.

The origins of the Château du Domaine de l’Église vineyard can be traced back to 1589, at the beginning of the reign of the Good King Henri (Henri IV). The estate was seized by authorities during the French Revolution and in 1793 it was sold to the Bertin family though a national property sale.

In 1893, the Bertin family produced ten barrels of wine, rising to twenty barrels by 1949. Simon Landard, Laure Bertin’s nephew, ran the estate a few years later. The estate was acquired in 1973 by Émile Castéja, 

Château du Domaine de l’Eglise was owned by Philippe Castéja and his sister, Chantal Castéja Prében-Hansen. Philippe ran the estate and improved the quality of the wine over the years. The wine from Château du Domaine de l’Eglise is considered a Grand Vin. Today the estate is run by the firm of Borie-Manoux.

The 7-hectare vineyard of Château du Domaine de l’Église is mainly planted with Merlot (95%), with a touch of Cabernet Franc (5%). The vines have an average age of 40 years.  The vineyard is situated on a plateau with classic Pomerol terroir, characterized by gravelly soil and clay subsoil, which imparts a distinct minerality to the wine. 

At thirty six years, this wine was holding up remarkably well and still very much in its drinking window, but certainly not likely to improve with any further aging, and best to be consumed in the next couple years. The label and foil and most importantly the fill level was top of neck and the cork was still intact despite being partly saturated, it was holding its integrity. It was carefully extracted using an ‘Ahso’ two pronged cork puller (shown). It likely would have collapsed in the bottle if pressed by a traditional cork screw. I always use this method, especially with older wines (except for synthetic corks).  

This release was awarded 90 points by Wine Advocate in 1993. 

This was even better the following day, being more balanced and settled, after decades of aging in the cellar.

Dark blackish garnet colored, medium to full bodied, deep rich round ripe balanced blackberry, cherry and plum fruits with herbs and vibrant spice notes with soft fine tannins on a long sensuous finish. 

RM 90 points, better, 91 points the following day. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?186048

https://www.domainedeleglise.com/en/

We also opened a birthyear vintage aged sweet dessert wine which paired perfectly with the scallops as well as the salad and later, the dessert. I wrote about this in a follow on blogpost - Clos Fontindoule Monbazillac Dessert Wine.

 https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2025/05/clos-fontindoule-monbazillac-1982-as.html

Easter Celebration Family Dinner Vintage Bordeaux & Beef Tenderloin

Easter Celebration Family Dinner Vintage Bordeaux & Beef Tenderloin

We hosted the family for a gala Easter Celebration dinner and (grand) kids Easter egg hunt. 

For diner we grilled a complete beef tenderloin served roasted potatoes, broccoli casserole and creative and imaginative corn nibblets preparation, slices of the kernel sections off the corn cob roasted, that we discovered at Stacy’s beachfront Restaurant in Crystal Beach during our recent trip to Destin, FL. 

For a wine accompaniment with dinner I pulled from the cellar a flight of Bordeaux varietals red blend wines anchored by a magnum of Erin’s birthyear Château Léoville-Barton St Julien Bordeaux 1981.

Château Léoville-Barton Grand Cru Classé Saint-Julien Bordeaux 1981

It is always a privilege and pleasure to meet the always friendly and delightful Lilian Barton-Sartorius from Château Léoville-Barton at the annual tasting of the UGCB (Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB)). She is a regular visitor each year at the annual release tour visit to Chicago, unveiling/showcasing their most recent vintage release wines.

Lilian Barton-Sartorius - Château
Leoville and Langoa Barton

The Union is the association of 130 members of the top premier estates from the most prestigious Bordeaux appellations.

Ch. Léoville Barton is a Second Growth Saint-Julien estate, one of the three famous original Léoville estates (along with Léoville Poyferré and Léoville Las Cases). 

Until the nineteenth century, the Domaine de Léoville Barton was one of the largest and oldest crus in the Médoc extending from the vineyards of Château Beychevelle on the southern edge of the St Julien appellation, all the way to Château Latour at the northern border of St Julien and Pauillac. 

It was a result of the French Revolution that the estate was divided into three parts between the years 1826 and 1840, Château Léoville Las Cases, Château Léoville Barton and Château Léoville Poyferré.

The two Barton estates, still owned by the Barton family today (along with Ch. Langoa Barton), date back to founder, Irish trader Thomas Barton who arrived in Bordeaux in 1725. 

He was an important figure in the wine trade during his lifetime but didn't buy any vineyards. It was his grandson, Hugh, who first purchased Château Langoa in Saint-Julien in 1821, and later acquired a part of the Léoville estate, which would become Ch. Léoville Barton.

The estate remains in the family today under the stewardship of Lilian Barton and her children Melanie and Damien have both joined the family business. 

We toured the historic Château Léoville-Barton grounds and vineyards at the estate during our visit to Saint Julien back in 2019.

The 130 acre estate with its classicSaint-Julien terroir of rich gravelly soil along the Gironde River estuary is planted to the specified varietals, with Cabernet Sauvignon accounting for a little more than 70 percent, with the remainder Merlot and a small amount of Cabernet Franc.

The wine cellar still maintains large wooden vats, with some dating as far back as 1963, while much of the rest of the region moved to stainless steel, Léoville Barton remained loyal to its traditions. Following fermentation, the wine is aged in French barrels (60% new) for around 20 months. 

Tonight, this proved to be an extraordinary, perfect wine and food pairing that complemented and amplified both. 

I write often in these pages about such a pairing, when properly done will indeed attenuate the enjoyment of both the food and the accompanying wine. 

Château Léoville-Barton Saint Julien Bordeaux 1981

I recently purchased several bottles of the most recent 2022 release of this label. was replenishing my stock. I came across several bottles from the OWC (original wood case) from the acquisition upon release of this vintage label. This is also one of the few remaining labels we hold from that 1981 vintage, birthyear of our daughter Erin. 

While the 1981 Bordeaux vintage was a bit lackluster and less worthy of long term cellaring, this bottle in its 43rd year was amazingly in remarkable condition - the fill level being just below the foil, and the cork still holding together albeit a bit saturated. The label, as shown, was soiled, and the cork was slightly saturated, but still intact to be able to be extracted with an Ahso two pronged cork puller (shown). 

I know that holding this wine for more than four decades was less than ideal and was a bit concerned about the state of this wine, despite its known provenance, having been in our cellar since release. 

The wine, while showing its age with some minor signs of diminution from aging, ie. slight browning of the color, was still showing full round fruits, with depth and breadth of flavors and smooth supple structured tannins.   

What a relief to get aromas of fruit and appropriate positive accents, and good color as I decanted the wine. Even with the slightly deteriorated cork, this bottle was still very much approachable and within its acceptable drinking window! No doubt the age worthiness was accentuated due to the larger format 1.5l magnum bottle.

Alas, this is the joy of having a deep wine cellar with many vintages across which to compare, over time, even across the decades!  My Cellartracker records indicate we have more than a dozen vintages of this label dating back to this vintage and the iconic 1982, 1955 and 1990 vintages, which we're still holding as birth-year wines for our three sons. 

After three hours of settling prior to pouring, the wine showed remarkably well. Compare this to the 1981 vintage Chateau Palmer we opened at Christmas dinner which did not fare nearly as well. 

Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, complex yet nicely balanced and full round flavors of black currant and black cherry fruits accented by very nice notes of all earth, wood, spice and tobacco with some savory sprites of black olive and cedar, finishing with moderate smooth polished tannins the finish - a nice match to the savory sauce accenting our grilled beefsteak. 

RM 88 points. 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/159583

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2023/01/ugcb-2020-vintage-release-tour-chicago.html

https://www.leoville-barton.com/

https://twitter.com/bartonwine

@Bartonwine

We followed this wine with another Bordeaux that I featured in a separate follow on blogpost - 

Château Larmande St Emilion Grand Cru Classé for Easter Dinner.

Birthday Lunch at Ella’s Western Springs

Birthday Lunch at Ella’s Western Springs

We met with several of the kids and grandkids for a birthday lunch celebrating Linda’s and granddaughter Marilyn’s birthdays. We met at Ella’s Italian Eatery in Western Springs, the renovated make-over of the previous Vie fine dining restaurant. What a transformation! They completely gutted and built a whole new restaurant with wide open views from the kitchen view seating in the rear to the front - one large dining room in the rear and the large bar and adjacent seating in the front half. Remarkable and well done, a huge improvement over the chopped up segregated multiple dining rooms of the previous configuration. 

Ella’s is the latest addition to the family of “family-friendly dining” establishments, adding to their existing locations in nearby Elmhurst and in Geneva, IL. They promote an “experience starting with (our) handcrafted dough, accented by creative Italian pub-style street food offerings along with an extensive wine list”.

The menu is extensive, featuring pizzas and a broad selection of Italian cuisine. 

I ordered the Tagliatelle Bolognese, Italian Meat Ragu with Tomato Sauce and Parmiaganna Regiano with an addition of a veal meatball. It was delicious. 

From the wine list, I ordered a BTG - By The Glass selection of an Italian Piedmontese Langhe Nebbiolo to compare with recent tastings of the Massolino wines from this varietal and region, as featured in several recent posts in these pages - . 

 

Boroli “1661” Langhe Nebbiolo 2022

This 100% Nebbiolo varietal is from the Boroli family Piedmont estate that dates back to 1831. The family started their winemaking business in 1997 when Silvano and Elena Boroli felt stepped away from their publishing business to pursue their passion producing wine. They grew the company until their son, Achille, stepped in to run the wine-growing and production business in 2012. The estate consisted of 27 acres planted primarily to the native grape varietal Nebbiolo. Achille Boroli is joined by Enzo Alluvione in duties as winemaker.  Total winery production is 18,911 bottles. 

With the 2012 grape harvest Achille decided to radically change the methods used in vineyards and wineries, aiming for the highest quality in Barolo and its crus. He cut production levels, updated the winemaking technology, and focused on low intervention methods to raise the quality of the Boroli wines striving to be on par with the finest Barolo wines.

Winemaker notes - “The Nebbiolo 2022 is an ode to lively freshness. With its bright ruby color, this wine exudes elegance right from the start. The bouquet is fresh and fruity, with notes of ripe strawberry, spring flowers, and a subtle hint of cinnamon. On the palate, it presents a youthful and vibrant structure, with agile tannins and a freshness that enhances the red fruit, mint, and a subtle touch of green tea.”

The 2021 release of this label was awarded 94 points and an Editors Choice by Wine Enthusiast, 91 by Wine Spectator, and 90 by Wine Advocate. 

Bright ruby red color, medium bodied, bright vibrant red berry and currant fruits with earthy notes of spice and herbs with smooth velvety tannings on the lingering finish. 

RM 90 points. 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/4778608

https://www.ellasitalianpub.com/menus

Family dinner features latest Bordeaux Releases, limited production No-Cal labels

Family celebration gathering features latest Bordeaux Releases and some limited production No-Cal labels 

The family gathered at Alec and Vivianna’s after the Church Dedication Service for daughter/grand-daughter Millie. 

They served beef tenderloin, salmon, mixed green salad and wide assortment of artisan cheeses, chips and dips and snacks. My absolute favorite, which was a perfect pairing with the vibrant Bordeaux, besides the tenderloin, was an authentic aged English Stilton cheese! 

I took for the occasion two labels of the recently released 2022 vintage Bordeaux, just acquired as part of an assorted mix case, following the UGCB 2022 Vintage Release Tour 2025 Chicago tasting this week. 

Selection of mixed case 2022 release Bordeaux

I tasted several of the new vintage release wines reported on the spectacular outcomes and was eager to try and share some of the new labels with son’s and fellow collectors. 

The first label I chose to share was WOTN by one of the top merchant’s representatives from the results published and distributed to patrons last week - Domaine Chevalier. Its also a label with which we have much affinity and history.

The other label was one I found to provide leading QPR - Quality Price Ratio, based on the highest rating from CT’ers and the affordable price-point - Chateau Tronquoy. 

In addition to these two labels, Alec opened a unique, interesting red blend from Sonoma County, from a large format magnum - Tesoro Red Blend. 

The other label Alec shared was another unique limited production Red Blend from Napa Valley Howell Mountain - Trio from Bravante Vineyards.

Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Léognan 2022 

We’ve been collecting this wine for several decades going back to the eighties. We’ve met producer Olivier Bernard at many UGCB and other tasting events over the last two decades. 

A highlight of our meetings with Bernard was attending a special Darioush - Domain Chevalier wine dinner at Everest in Chicago. The gala Darioush - Domaine de Chevalier Gala Winemaker dinner at Everest Restaurant in Chicago back in the summer of 2004 was a fabulous private dinner hosted by Darius & Shaptar Kaledi of Darioush Winery and Olivier Bernard of Domaine de Chevalier, celebrating their collaboration. Chef Joho prepared a special dinner featuring and complementing their wines poured by Darioush winemaker Steve McDevitt.

I chose this label also because it represents two generations of wine production and collecting - with next generation Hugo Bernard of Domaine Chevalier, and our son Ryan. We first met Hugo when Ryan joined me for the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux Chicago back in 2015. In addition to Ryan and me attending together, that year marked the rare attendance by both Bernard and son Hugo, as part of partially passing the baton to the next generation. 

With Bernard at UGCB in 2015

Last week, Hugo was pouring tonight’s wine at this year’s event - UGCB 2022 Vintage Release Tour 2025 Comes to Chicago.

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Also, this is a one-of special release featuring a new, one-of special label celebrating Olivier Bernard's 40th year at the château and his 40th vintage. Hugo explained it shows a painting of a gallant horse that hangs in a gallery in Paris, representing Chevalier, which translated means knight, horseman or ‘gallant gentleman’.

As Olivier says about the estate, “Domaine de Chevalier is located in a clearing in the middle of a forest that protects the vines from extremes of temperature. In fact Chevalier is a sort of secret garden, far from the limelight. This is something of a paradox for such an excellent wine, among the greatest in Bordeaux. 

Only a great terroir can produce a great wine... I often start out with these words when speaking about Domaine de Chevalier. They convey our fundamental philosophy, not only with regard to viticulture, but also the spirit that pervades the estate and the men and women who work here. They improve their already considerable skills year after year on behalf of that which is most essential to a fine wine; in my opinion balance.”

This may represent the greatest vintage release of this label in decades, perhaps the best under the ‘reign’ of Bernard. 

This year’s extraordinary blockbuster release was awarded 98-99 points by James Suckling, 96-98 points by Jeb Dunnuck, 95-97 points by Vinous, 96 points by Joan Anson, 94-96 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, and 95 points by Decanter.

While this amazing wine should reward aging for decades, it’s approachable and delicious today for early, instant gratification, which seems to be the case with many releases of this vintage. 

Serve this at proper temperature (eight to ten degrees below room temperature, and let it open and settle for an hour beforehand. 

This vintage release is a traditional left Bank Bordeaux blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc.

Bright deep ruby purple colored, medium full bodied, structured, layered, concentrated, powerful and vibrant yet silky smooth, polished and approachable, rich ripe black and red berry fruits accented by brilliant aromatics, crème de cassis, truffle, graphite, smoke, tobacco, and damp earth, with silky mouthfeel, beautiful tannins, and a great finish. 

RM 95 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4641915

https://www.domainedechevalier.com/en

Chateau Tronquoy St-Estèphe 2022 

Folks may know this by its historic traditional Tronquoy-Lalande name, this is the first vintage without the 'Lalande' part of the name.

Negociant Justerini and Brooks profiles the producer and estate. “The wine growing estate is one of the oldest in the Saint-Estèphe region, originally built for the Tronquoy family in the 18th century. It saw many owners until 1968 when it was bought by Jean and Arlette Textier and run for 40 years.”

“Martin and Olivier Bouygues purchased the property in 2006 with a vision to bring it into the modern era. They started a large-scale renovation including the construction of a great barrel hall and a new vat house. Today, the estate has become the latest success story to emanate from Saint-Estèphe.”

This St Estephe property is owned by the Bouygues family and run by the team at Montrose. 

Located in the heart of the Saint-Estèphe appellation, just south of the village, Château Tronquoy has a vineyard spanning 74 acres. 

We drove through the village and the surrounding estates and vineyards during our tour of the area during our visit in 2019.

This release was rated 94-96 points by Jeb Dunnuck, 93-95 by Neal Martin of Vinous, 93 points by Jane Anson of Inside Bordeaux,  92-93 points by James Suckling, Wine Advocate gave it 89-91 points, but a blockbuster 95+ by Cellartrackers who typically are more moderate than the pundits in their assessment. 

Neal Martin of Vinous wrote, “This is an outstanding Saint-Estèphe determined not to lie in the shadow of its sibling Montrose. One of the spiciest Tronquoy-Lalandes for some time, with a peacock's tail on the finish.” 

This is classic example where ‘all boats rise with the tide’, as more moderately priced labels get high marks and the difference between premium grand vin and second labels shrinks, resulting in a high QPR - Quality Price Ratio. A blockbuster wine for serious every day sipping. 

One pundit wrote “Some wines are for that special occasion, but Tronquoy 2022 is your new everyday friend.” Another wrote, “The 2022 Tronquoy is a gorgeous wine, one of the best in recent memory.” 

This release is a traditional Left Bank Bordeaux blend of 59% Cabernet Sauvignon (usually the blend is mainly Merlot), 35% Merlot, and 6% Petit Verdot.

The 2022 Tronquoy-Lalande comes in a new bottle design with a wax capsule. 

Dark garnet purple colored, full bodied, firm structured,, intense, concentrated, complex yet balanced and approachable, super ripe blackberry, black currant and black cherry fruits with spicy cinnamon, cassis, allspice, licorice, bitter dark chocolate and dried herbs on the well behaved fine tannin laced finish. 

RM 95 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4626459

https://www.tronquoy-lalande.com/en/

More to follow … I write about the Bravante Vineyards Trio Howell Mtn Red in this follow on post, and  Muscardini Cellars Tesoro Proprietary Red Blend in this separate follow on post. 

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