Showing posts with label family dinner. Show all posts
Showing posts with label family dinner. Show all posts

Sunday, November 3, 2024

Premium birthyear Napa Reds for family celebration

 Premium birthyear Napa Reds for family celebration 

The extended family gathered at son Ryan’s and D-in-law Michelle’s for a celebration of kids/grandkids’ Marleigh and Reid’s First Communion and Ryan’s upcoming birthday.


Ryan and Michelle served beef tenderloin, pasta a pizza followed by celebration cake. We took chips and a cheese dip as a starter which was served with a selection of artisan cheeses.

Ryan served Bollinger Champagne and a medley of reds from his cellar; Bollinger Champagne NV, and L’Aventura Paso Robles Cabernet.  

With the entree course, ideally paired with the beef tenderloin were two ultra-premium Napa Cabernets from the birthyear vintages of the two kids/grandkids honored today, from two producers we know well and from whom we hold extensive collections in our respective cellars. 

Venge Vineyards Bone Ash Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

Another wine from the Venge portfolio that we’ve featured several times recently in these pages including another family dinner last weekend

I wrote in that blogpost more about Venge and our visits with Nils at the Penny Lane Family Reserve Vineyard in Oakville, and driving up to meet Kirk at the Rossini Ranch site in the eastern foothills of Palisade Mountain near Calistoga back in 2002.

This ultra-premium, flagship Cabernet Sauvignon is a single vineyard designated label sourced from the Venge Calistoga Estate “Bone Ash Vineyard”, which is second of the three estate vineyards they own and farm in Napa Valley. 

Like their Oakville Estate and our Calistoga Estate Signal Fire Vineyard, the vines are dry-farmed with vines averaging 25+ years in age with vines’ roots established very deep which allows for minimal irrigation. The resulting struggle makes for wines with excellent flavor, body and overall complexity.

This release was aged 19 months in 85% new French oak. 

Jeb Dunnuck gave this release 97 points while Virginia Boone at Wine Enthusiast gave it 95 points. 

While we hold many Venge wines dating back decades, this was my first tasting of this label to my recollection. 

This was spectacular with blackish inky purple color, full bodied, round rich concentrated yet smooth and polished blue and blackberry fruits accented by harmonious notes of mocha, cassis and hints of clove spice, tea and espresso with ripe silky tannins on the lingering finish. 

RM 95 points. 



https://twitter.com/vengevineyards

Hall Winery & Vineyards Howell Mountain Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

We huge fans of Hall Wines and have a collection of fifteen different labels, not counting different vintages, of their wines, yet amazingly, we no longer hold this label. 

We’ve visited the magnificent Hall Napa Valley Rutherford Estate Winery and Caves back in 2013, then again in 2017.

We’re also huge fans of Napa Valley Howell Mountain Appellation wines, so we were excited to try this release of this appellation label from this producer. 

Napa Valley's Howell Mountain is located atop the steep slopes rising to the east of St. Helena on the northern portion of the Vaca Mountain range and holds the distinction of being the first mountain appellation approved in Napa in 1983. The elevation of the appellation, ranging from 1200 to 2600 feet, significantly influences the grapes grown here. Notably, 1200 feet is the highest elevation and demarcation point that the valley fog rises up the mountain. Also, the steep slopes afford drainage and more sun exposure contributing to ripe rich concentrated grapes. 

The Howell Mountains altitude vineyards are above the fog line, allowing for more sunlight hours, resulting in deep, dark color and concentration. Additionally, temperatures tend to be warmer than in the southern mountain appellations of Atlas Peak and Mount Veeder where they get some impact from the San Pablo Bay’s marine effects wafting up from the south. 

Howell Mountain’s high elevation soils consist of volcanic soil, and the second soil type is the ‘Aiken series’ which is a red clay high in iron, both being rocky and nutrient poor that produces exceptionally intense wines from small clusters and berries.

Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon tends to be deep, concentrated and intense fruit with highlights of dark chocolate and clove and cinnamon spices, with potent, well-integrated tannins. 

This release was awarded a stellar 99 points by Wine Advocate and 94 points by Vinous International Wine Cellar. 

Wine Advocate called the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain ‘exquisite’. 

Dark blackish inky purple colored, full bodied with intense, concentrated, vibrant black berry fruits accented by a sharp edge with sprites of smoke, crème de cassis, dark bittersweet chocolate, hints of pepper, menthol and licorice. This needs a bit more time and it will probably continue to integrate and soften over another decade of aging. 

RM 93 points. 




Quinta do Noval Vintage Port 1982

Continuing the tradition of collecting and enjoying celebratory birth year vintage wines, for his birthday and the festive gathering, I took Ryan, from our cellar, a bottle of his birthyear vintage port. 

This Quinta do Noval is one of the oldest historic port houses, distinctive in that most of the ports are crafted from estate-grown fruit from the single Quinta do Noval vineyard. 

The historic Noval estate is mentioned in land registries going back to 1715, and has been sold just twice in that time, once in the late 19th century, and then to its present owners in 1993. 

Noval has a reputation for innovation such as being the first to introduce stenciled bottles in the 1920s. They pioneered the concept of Old Tawnies with an indication of age, and in 1958, Noval was the first to introduce a late-bottled vintage (LBV).

They are famously known for their Nacional label made in declared vintages from a 6 acre parcel of ungrafted vines. When declared, the highly allocated 200-300 cases of Nacional are some of the most sought after port in the world. 

The terraced vineyards of Noval are perched above the Douro and Pinhao rivers, ranging in elevation from just above river level to 1,200 feet with infertile schist, not soil as much as sheer rock.

We’ll look forward to enjoying this together some time in the future. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=95619

https://www.quintadonoval.com/



Sunday, October 20, 2024

Caprili Brunello di Montalcino BYOB at Angeli’s Italian

 Caprili Brunello di Montalcino BYOB at Angeli’s Italian, Naperville

Dining out with son’s Alec and Sean and their families allowed the grandkids/cousins to get together. On a gorgeous evening of the waning days of autumn, we dined outside on the patio for a delightful dinner at Angeli’s Italian Restaurant, Naperville (IL), our favorite neighborhood trattoria. 


The grand-daughers/cousins had a great time being together, a special bonding opportunity.

And, eldest grandaughter was along to entertain and enjoy the girls.

As always, such gatherings are a wonderful time for grandma to spend time with the grand-babies. 

For the occasion, I took BYOB from our cellar this recent vintage Brunello di Montalcino for an ideal pairing with the Italian cuisine. 

Caprili Brunello di Montalcino 2019

We love Sangiovese and find it perhaps our favorite go to varietal for hearty pasta dishes, the designated signature grape ideally matched to the unique terroir of Montalcino, with notes of red fruit, spice, and earth. A perfect pairing for hearty Italian cuisine.

I’ve written often in these pages about Brunello and what makes it so special. They are sourced from the Italian appellation of Brunello di Montalcino, regarded as one of Italy’s best appellations. Located in south central Tuscany below Chianti, the wines of Brunello di Montalcino DOCG are made of a Sangiovese clone called “brunello,” which means “little dark one,” a reference to the brown tones in the skin of the grape. Unlike some Tuscan appellations that allow other grapes to be blended with Sangiovese, Brunello di Montalcino appellation rules require 100% Sangiovese.

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG has to be made 100% with Sangiovese grapes alone, and made only within the Montalcino municipality area. It can only be sold in the market from January 1 of its fifth year after harvest. Prior to that, the wine cannot legally be called Brunello di Montalcino (not even in the cellar): it is simply "red wine to become Brunello di Montalcino DOCG".

Montalcino is a picturesque, hill-top town that was not especially well known for wine production until the mid-19th century, when a local vineyard owner isolated the brunello clone and planted it. Other growers followed suit. Nevertheless it wasn’t until the 1970s that wine enthusiasts started paying attention to Brunello di Montalcino, which by then was becoming an outstanding wine.

Today there are 120 estates in the DOCG, up from about 25 estates in 1975. Brunellos in general are bigger, darker, more tannic and more powerful wines than Chiantis or most other Sangioveses. By law they must be aged for four years, and two of those years must be in wooden barrels.

Caprili was one of the earliest estates in Montalcino – founded when there were fewer than 20 estates (there are now well over 200). They are considered one of the old guard of Montalcino producers as they were established in 1965 when they split off from the famous Pieve Santa Restituta estate. The estate is extremely well located, next to Pieve Santa Restituta, immediately adjacent to Soldera, two of the iconic top producers of the region. It is located in the southwestern sector of the Montalcino appellation near the hamlet of Tavernelle, on hillside slopes along the Orcia and Ombrone Rivers, one of the warmer areas within the appellation.

The winery is run by the young and dynamic Giacomo Bartolommei, who still in his 20¹s ratcheted up the quality at this historic estate in recent years. He has been making the wine at his family’s property without an external consultant since 2016.  Given the wealth of vineyards that the family was able to purchase early on in Montalcino¹s young history, they are able to make on average about 35,000 bottles of Brunello and 4,000 bottles of the Brunello Riserva each year. Total production at the winery is about 60,000 which includes Brunello, and both Rosso and Moscadello di Montalcino, plus a few wines they make from a small Maremma property they purchased in 2003.

The Caprili estate, covers an area of 140 acres, planted with vines covering 60 acres, 55 of which are planted with Sangiovese Grosso, with the remainder planted to small amounts of Trebbiano Malvasia, Vermentino and a small section planted with Moscadello.

The vineyards mostly are adjacent to or surrounding the winery with an exposure to the south-southeast between 225-340 meters in elevation. The soil there has a bit more sand than in other parts of Montalcino giving the wines elegance and bright aromatics. It is also a sector that benefits from regular circulation of wind currents that come off the sea to the west. This air flow pattern greatly reduces disease pressure which in turn allows the winery to farm organically. It also provides a cooling effect in warmer years to help insure freshness and balance to the wines.

The heart of the winery is the Madre vineyard whose grapes make up the Brunello Riserva Ad Alberto (Alberto was the Great Grandfather of current generation winemaker, Giacomo Bartolommei). Those vines were planted in the 1960¹s, and their other vineyards which were planted subsequently all have used massale selection cuttings from the mother block. 

The 2019 Caprili Brunello was rated 96 Points by Kerin O’Keefe,www.kerinokeefe.com, and Wine Spectator, 95 Points by Eric Guido of Vinous and Wine Advocate, 94 points by Jeb Dunnuck, 93 by James Suckling, and 92 by Decanter. 

Readers of these pages note that I most often reference the reviewers of wines and their ratings. I pay attention to this not only as a benchmark and calibration of the wine, but importantly, over time, one may determine or establish and affinity for one reviewer over the others, for a particular wine. This helps determine which pundit may be the most suitable or best fit to one’s own tastes when selecting such a wine. 

Wine scores and ratings also provide a benchmark relative to the price of the wine, determine the QPR - Quality Price Ratio, for such a selection - identifying wines with the greatest value for the score at the price point.  

The Caprili 2019 Brunello di Montalcino has deep ruby/magenta color, medium bodied, concentrated and complex yet nicely balanced, smooth, elegant and polished with bright vibrant berry and cherry fruits accented by floral and lavender aromas, notes of cocoa, tobacco and truffle with fresh acidity, firm round but smooth and polished tannins on a silky-textured long finish. 55,000 bottles were made.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4832099

https://www.caprili.it/en/

https://angeliscatering.com/

Friday, August 23, 2024

Aged Vintage Napa Cab anchors diverse flight Anniversary Celebration

Aged Vintage Napa Cabernet anchors broad diverse flight for Anniversary Celebration dinner

Following our gala 50th Graduation and Wedding Anniversary celebration dinner, wherein we opened some aged vintage wines, we still had another 50 year old Napa Cabernet being held for the occasion to open. 

Looking back fifty years, one might think that if any producer would produce a wine worthy of such aging the list would include Beaulieu Vineyards with their top of the line premium Founder’s label Georges de Latour

The family gathered for a follow on dinner to our anniversary celebration to dine with my sister Jan visiting from California. 

I used the occasion to open this other 50th year vintage bottle, having opened another one at our earlier dinner.- a 1974 Chappellet Napa Cabernet

Linda prepared beef tenderloin filets of beef with salmon, grilled vegetables, sweet corn, au-gratin  potatoes and salad. 






 Commemorating our anniversary, I opened from our cellar this fifty year old anniversary year vintage Napa Cabernet. 

Beaulieu Vineyards Private Reserve Georges De Latour Estate Founder’s Wine Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1974

Like the earlier bottle, this too had an excellent fill level and amazingly near perfect cork, considering their age. Similarly, the foil and label were in ideal condition. 

Unlike the 1974 Chappellet, which was served from a magnum, the BV de Latour was a standard size 750 and had not held up so well, having lost its lustre and appeal, past it’s acceptable drinking window, drinkable for memorable tasting, not not pleasurable sipping. 

This was pale opaque brownish rust brick colored, medium bodied with a subdued nose and flavors of slightly tart astringent berries, smokey ash, leather and tea - drinkable for adventurous tasting but not for savoring. 

RM 84 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?35343

Naturally, we opened several other wines, white and red,  to round out the dinner flight. 

Linda and sister Jan prepared some Brie cheese with honey, crushed berry compote and fresh nuts, fresh salsa and a garden salad for starters - with which we opened a Napa Valley Sparkling (methode traditionelle) white wine. 


Chandon California Brut Methode Traditionelle Sparkling Wine 

For starters we opened this bubbly for casual sipping before dinner. 


We followed the white with one of our favorite producers’ labels …

Lewis Cellars Napa Valley Chardonnay 2018

We write often in these pages how we have fun with the alphabet labels, “V” from various producers for Vivianna, and the “L” labels from Lewis Cellars, and others, for Linda, Lucy, Lavender and Lilac. 

We also pay respects to our Indiana heritage and the legacy of founder/producer Randy Lewis, former Indianapolis 500 racer. So it was fitting to open this for a family occasion, especially with sister Jan visiting from California, ‘back home again in Indiana’. 

We wrote about our visit to Lewis Cellars Napa Chateau and our private Tasting back in 2017 in this blogpost. 

We have an extensive cellar collection of Lewis Cellars’ wines including this Chardonnay label, their Cabernet Sauvignons, Mason’s Blend, Ethan’s Syrah and one of our signature favorite wines since it happens to be the namesake of our son and the Lewis’ first grandson, Alec’s Blend. 

We’ll likely scale back our collecting Lewis wines since the family has sold the business and brand to a major consolidated producer. In 2021 Lewis Cellars was acquired by Justin Vineyards & Winery of Paso Robles and its owner, the Wonderful Company.

As a $5bn privately-held group founded by Stewart and Lynda Resnick, the Wonderful Company also owns Landmark Vineyards in Sonoma County and JNSQ rosé wine, as well as the Fiji Water and Pom Wonderful brands.

Since this blog is also partially about branding and strategy, I’d be remiss to not mention the self-inflicted branding fiasco Fiji brought on themselves a few years back - memorialized in these posts - enough said… 

https://www.governing.com/archive/gov-cities-tout-municipal-tap-water-as-better-than-bottled.html

Lewis Cellars makes around 9,000 cases of wine per year and is known for high-end wines made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.

Justin Vineyards said Lewis Cellars will continue to be led and run by the existing team, including Randy Lewis and his stepson, Dennis Bell.

The strategy is to leverage the larger group’s marketing, strategy and sales teams to reach new audiences, such as via wine clubs or restaurants.

This 2018 release of Lewis Chardonnay was awarded 93 points by Wine Spectator and 92 points by Connoisseurs' Guide and Wilford Wong of Wine.com

Winemaker Notes - Like a silk robe or satin sheets the 2018 Napa Chardonnay seduces with thrilling texture. Creamy pear, crème brulee, white nectarine and gardenia blossom sprinkled with vanilla spice, it is simply delicious and irresistible. Finely structured yet opulent to the core, it is graced with a long, luscious finish.

Golden colored, full, round and structured medium body with rich flavors of ripe pear and apple fruits with creamy toasty notes on the lingering finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3390102 

Ryan brought from his cellar a duo of Cliff Lede Fels brand Sonoma wines - a white Chardonnay and a red Pinot Noir. The Fel’s brand is named for Cliff Lede’s mother Florence Elsie Lede who the producer attributes as the inspiration for his love of wine. Both wines are sourced from the Lede Savoy Vineyard in the Sonoma County Anderson Valley. 

The Anderson Valley sits north of Sonoma County in Mendocino County, two hours north of San Francisco up Hwy 101. Located just off the coastal region of Mendocino County, Anderson Valley and the adjacent Mendocino Ridge are in a sparsely populated area near the small town of Boonville, population 700. The 15 mile long Anderson Valley was formed by the Navarro River watershed and is surrounded by steep, forested slopes as well as rolling hills dotted with picturesque vineyards, farms and orchards and  is one of California’s most picturesque appellations. 

Savoy Vineyard, long recognized as a benchmark vineyard in Anderson Valley, is located in the “Deep End” of the valley, west of the town of Philo. 

During the growing season, moist, cool, late afternoon air flows in from the Pacific Ocean along the Navarro River and over the valley's golden, oak-studded hills. High and low temperatures can vary as much as 40 or 50 degrees within a single day, allowing for slow and gentle ripening of grapes, which will in turn create elegantly balanced wines. 

The Anderson Valley is best suited and known for these cool climate varietals Pinot Noir made in a range of styles from delicate and floral to powerful and concentrated. Chardonnay.

Fels Sonoma County Anderson Valley Savoy Vineyard Chardonnay 2018

Fels produce an estate blend and two single vineyard Chardonnays from Savoy Vineyard and Ferrington Vineyard from Anderson Valley. Their signature is bright fruit and fresh flavors due to the absence of new oak or malolactic fermentation showing a crisp clean vibrant taste profile. 

FEL Anderson Valley Chardonnays are made from 100 percent Chardonnay.

Winemakers notes - “Lifted floral aromatics waft from the glass of this citrus-driven Chardonnay. Notes of lemon zest, white grapefruit, and Key lime, are complemented by hints of juniper, struck flint, and melon. The blend of citrus flavors continues in the mouth with an abundance of fresh lemon and orange zest. The juicy finish is carried by notes of lemon balm with zippy acidity.”

Golden colored, medium full bodied, crisp fresh, vibrant flavors of crisp apple, ripe pear and a touch of pineapple and subtle hints of baking spice on the clean finish. 

RM 91 points. Wine Enthusiast gave this 92 Points


Fels Sonoma County Anderson Valley Savoy Vineyard Pinot Noir 2018

Winemaker notes - “Savoy Vineyard, the archetypal expression of Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, is always layered and intensely complex. Loaded with enticing aromatics of black cherry, wild brambleberries, and Santa Rosa plum, the nose is furthered with hints of mint, sage, and redwood needles. Simultaneously intense and elegant in the mouth, flavors of black fruit mingle with hints of baking spices, wild herbs, and savory notes of cocoa and black pepper. The palate finishes with a delicate balance of bright acidity and fine-grained tannins.”

“Loaded with enticing aromatics of black cherry, wild brambleberries, and Santa Rosa plum, the nose is furthered with hints of mint, sage, and redwood needles. Simultaneously intense and elegant in the mouth, flavors of black fruit mingle with hints of baking spices, wild herbs, and savory notes of cocoa and black pepper. The palate finishes with a delicate balance of bright acidity and fine-grained tannins.”

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3780212

https://shop.cliffledevineyards.com/product/2018-FEL-Pinot-Noir-Savoy-Vineyard-3L

With the dinner entrees and the dessert course Ryan trolled our cellar and pulled an adventurous duo of Cabernet Franc varietals.

Paradigm Napa Valley Oakville Napa Valley Cabernet Franc 1996

Mindful of cellar management, to avoid opening an older bottle late, approaching, or even past it's drinking window, lest it deteriorate or diminish for future enjoyment, we pulled this 1996 Napa Valley Cabernet Franc from Paradigm. 

We tasted and acquired this wine during a visit to the Paradigm Estate and vineyards with proprietors Ren and Marilyn Harris during our Napa Valley Wine Experience back in 1999. At twenty eight years it was holding its own, showing no signs of diminution from age - the fill level and cork were still in ideal condition. 

This tasting experience was similar to another Bordeaux varietal from the same vintage from this producer we consumed relatively recently in 2019, as featured in these pages here as excerpted below.

Producer Ren Harris, Linda 
and Rick.
back in 1999

Ren and Marilyn had owned and operated various properties in Napa Valley since 1964 and purchased the Paradigm property in 1975. The '91 release was the inaugural vintage for Paradigm.

The fifty-five acre property lies in the Oakville appellation and consists of fifty acres of vineyards planted in Bordeaux varietals - Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from the beginning, with Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot being added a few years later.

We still hold nearly a case of the Paradigm Cabernets we acquired at that time, and since as we replenish consumed bottled with current vintages. We held a mini vertical (series of vintages of the same label) spanning vintages from 1991 up to 2004. We've consumed all our vintages from 1991 thru 1994 but still hold nearly a decade of vintages.

Paradigm wines are all Estate bottled, meaning all the grapes are sourced from their fifty acres of vineyards there on the property. The Paradigm winemaker is the legendary Heidi Barrett who has been there since the beginning. 

Tonight, we opted for this Cabernet Franc for some adventurous tasting with the grilled beef tenderloins which was an ideal pairing combination. 

Producing a standalone label bottling of Cabernet Franc was unique and somewhat progressive back in the day, as it is customarily used as a blending wine in a Bordeaux Blend to add structure, color and an element of vibrancy and spiciness. Hence it a fun wine to consume at 100% of the blend.

Recent Paradigm Napa Valley Oakville Estate Merlot 1996 tasting… 

Like the Merlot we consumed a while back, this is still drinking nicely at twenty four years, only starting to show it age with only slight diminution, but past its prime and so time to starting consuming whats left in the cellar over the next couple of years. The cork was in fine condition but darkening to a tobacco color, there was ever-so-slight rust tinge color on the rim, and the fruits were starting to give way a bit to non-fruit tones of leather and tobacco. It was still very enjoyable and holding its own nicely.

Garnet colored with the slight rust hue, medium bodied, 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?5876

Spring Valley Vineyards Katherine Cabernet Franc 2015

I wrote about Spring Valley and this label in several posts in these pages, excerpted here.

Spring Valley “Katherine” Cabernet Franc

We followed with another Cabernet Franc for a comparison tasting. This is another family oriented producer with family oriented branding which we enjoy serving for family occasions such as this.  

I pulled a Bordeaux varietal, a grape used to add structure and spice to the blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. A wine that is 100% single varietal with those characteristics isn't for the feint of heart, but fits the bill perfectly for our tastes. 

We discovered and acquired this wine during our visit to the Spring Valley Vineyards tasting room in Walla Walla back in 2018 as covered in this blogpost - October 27, 2018 - Spring Valley Vineyards Tasting and Vineyard Visit.

We joined their wine club and as members receive regular quarterly shipments of their wines. We amassed a collection of the complete portfolio of wines including this label. Our Cellartracker records show we have 95 bottles of 35 different Spring Valley wines in our collection.

One of the great historic Walla Walla wineries, Spring Valley Vineyard lies 12 miles northeast of the town of Walla Walla, amid the picturesque wheat fields of southeastern Washington and the Blue Mountains in the distance. The land that was originally used for farming dating back to the the 1880s.  

Founded by Uriah, Katherine, and continued by the next generation, Frederick, and Nina Lee Corkrum, Shari Corkrum Derby and her husband Dean Derby continued to operate the wheat fields, vineyard and winery. Shari and Dean Derby planted vines on the land from 1993 and made their first vintage in 1999. 

Today, Spring Valley have 110 acres of vines planted, all in the relatively cool micro-climate of Walla Walla Valley in the southeast corner of Washington State.

We had the pleasure of meeting Dean Derby on the property during our visit to the estate.during our appellation visit to the Walla Walla (Washington) wine region in the fall of 2018. We visited the Spring Valley Vineyard tasting room in downtown Walla Walla, then ventured out to the vineyards and winery northeast of town. There, we met Dean Derby, patriarch, and husband to Shari Corkrum Derby, grand-daughter of Uriah Corkrum, founder and namesake for their Bordeaux Blend label, husband to Katherine, namesake for this label. 

Meeting Mr. Derby was one of the highlights of our Walla Walla Wine Experience, especially since he has since passed on. We posted a Tribute to Dean Derby and memorium of that visit - Spring Valley Vineyard toward the end of 2021. 

We thought of him last week as his alma mater, University of Washington played in the NCAA national football championship, and next year join the Big Ten conference. I wrote about Dean playing on and being captain of that football team in my tribute blogpost.

The Derby's son Devin Corkrum Derby served as winemaker until his passing in 2004. Devin’s assistant and friend Serge Laville took over as winemaker and has been crafting wines since. Originally they focused on varietals from the Northern Rhone region in France, they expanded production to Bordeaux varietals including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and this Cabernet Franc, and a Right Bank and a Left Bank style Bordeaux Blend. 

I've written often in these pages about Spring Valley Vineyards portfolio of wines named for members paying homage to the family and ancestors dating back to the first generation founders at the turn of the last century. We have several vintage releases of their annual case that features six of these labels - each one commemorating a different family member. This Cabernet Franc is named in honor of founder Uriah Corkrum’s wife Katherine, a native of Wales who immigrated to Walla Walla Territory in 1897. She and Uriah had four sons, including Frederick Corkrum.



We have a vertical collection of seven vintages of this wine. Normally, as part of cellar management, I would open the oldest, earliest vintage to drink, but, I pulled a bottle from the rack, not thinking that we have a couple older vintages in the decorative OWC - Original Wood Cases, each with a vertical collection that include this label. I'll need to 'break' those collections at some point and consume the older releases. 

Spring Valley Vineyards ‘Katherine Corkrum’ Walla Walla Cabernet Franc 2015   

This wine commemorates Katherine Williams Corkrum, born and raised in Wales, then came to America and settled in Walla Walla Washington to eventually marry Uriah Corkrum. Together they raised a family with three sons that would follow for three generations developing the property. 

This is 100% estate grown Cabernet Franc. The vines follow the north-south slope of the hills in vertical rows, an orientation that when combined with the declination of the slope, allows the vines to take optimal advantage of air drainage, sunshine, and the reflective nature of the surrounding wheat fields.

Winemaker's Tasting Notes - “This Cabernet Franc has plenty of herbal notes with abundant flavors of raspberry and cassis and a touch of spice.” - ~ Winemaker Serge Laville 

100% Cabernet Franc, this was aged 18 months in 100% French Oak, 30% new

This was rated 91 points by Wine Advocate and Stephen Tanzer

Dark ruby colored, medium full bodied, full round with a silky smooth texture, ripe dark blackberry fruits with notes of spice, cassis, mocha chocolate, herbs and tobacco with toasty oak on a lingering moderate tannin finish. 

RM 91 points. 

Tuesday, July 9, 2024

Family 4th of July gathering features red wines

Family 4th of July gathering features medley of red wines 

The family gathered at daughter Erin and Johnny’s for a gala 4th of July celebration pool party and cookout. Ryan brought from his home cellar (shown below) two big reds and I took a red and sparkling white. 

R&L and eleven grandchildren … 


Ryan and Alec both acquired this label at auction and I featured it in a recent blogpost here - 

This was very good as discussed last week in the linked blogpost, when we had it with son Alec and D-in-law Vivianna’s, with pizza. 

As I wrote in that post, this Proprietary Red Blend, an introduction to a relatively new label from one of our long timer favored producers. 

Our CellarTracker records show we hold more than three cases of 20 different labels from David Arthur. We visited the estate up on Pritchard Hill Atlas Peak during our Napa Wine Experience back in 2013 as featured in these pages in this blogpost - David Arthur Napa Valley Estate Vineyards and Winery.

Tonight, that was very good, but was overshadowed by this full throttle Big Red, also brought by Ryan.

Ryan shared this ultra-premium Napa Cab from one of our favorite producers. We've visited the Cliff Lede estate on several of our Napa Valley wine trips and several of our wine buddies including son Ryan source allocated wines as members of their club. 

Ryan discovered this wine at a tasting at the winery and declared it the favorite WOTN (wine-of-the-night) and acquired it as part of his wine club allocation. 

Cliff Lede Napa Valley Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2016

This is from the spectacular 2016 vintage continued a series of exceptional vintages in Napa Valley. 

This is sourced from the Diamond Mountain vineyards - exceptional, low-yielding vineyards with volcanic ash and gravelly loam soils in the Diamond Mountain appellation, nestled in the Mayacamas Range on the northwest side of Napa Valley. There the sun-drenched mountain vineyards have late afternoon breezes that ripen the fruit slowly and evenly. The winemaker notes that both Lede vineyard sites are planted to extraordinary old vines on a steep incline with historic Napa field selections and produce age-worthy Cabernet Sauvignon with dark fruit, intense structure, minerality, and perfume.

The fruit was hand harvested and subjected to rigorous selection by a three-tiered sorting process, including high tech cutting edge optical sorting that works to eliminate less-than-perfect berries so that only finest fruit makes it into the wine. 

Crop levels were slightly below average due to a dry late spring and a cool weather spell during flowering which, when combined with the drought impacted dry soils led to small berries, creating very concentrated fruit. Ideal summer weather allowed the grapes to be harvested at optimal ripeness so that the resulting wines had intense and vibrant fruits.

The wine underwent twenty-one months of élevage in French oak, 78% of which were new.

Winemaker Notes - “The amazing 2016 Diamond Mountain’s bouquet is resplendent with cool wild blackberry jam scented with subtle notes of bay leaf, cardamom, clove and talc. There’s an interplay of rocks and loam in the nose as well.”

“Spiced fig, chocolate ganache, and blueberry flavors unfold on the palate underscored by blackberry and graphite notes. Like all of our 2016 wines, this wine has an expansive, mouth coating texture that is lush and joyfully persistent. The crescendo of the finish is a wash of savory cumin power, cedar, and violet flavors and aromas completing this wine of contemplation.” – Christopher Tynan, Winemaker

The Composition is a blend of 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc that adds spiciness and structure, and 1% Merlot for roundness and highlights of softness.

Production was 750 Cases.

This release was awarded 93 points by James Suckling.

Dark inky purple colored, full bodied, this exhibited dense, concentrated, rich extracted chewy tongue coating dark berry fruits with notes of spice, tobacco and hints of tar with a full round but soft and polished long tannin laced finish. Delicious! 

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?3467542

https://www.ledefamilywines.com/

@CliffLedeWine  

Domaine les Pallières “Terrasse du Diable” Gigondas 2018

I brought this Southern Rhône Valley blend that was an appropriate pairing for grilled burgers. 

I brought this in remembrance of our having discovered and were first introduced to this label while visiting the producer, Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe. Châteauneuf-du-Pape winery estate with Alec and Vivianna during our Rhone Wine Experience back in 2018, so I took this for memorable casual sipping, ideally paired with burgers and hot dogs. 

Vivianna, Alec & Philippe with Daniel Brunier
Tasting this wine at the Chateau

This is from a joint venture between notable legends of Southern Rhône Valley wines, Daniel and Frederic Brunier of the iconic Vieux Télégraphe, and American distributor importer Kermit Lynch. They acquired the estate back in 1998 when long time owners, the Roux family, having no successor heirs, decided to sell the property.

Domaine Les Pallières was one of the greatest, longest-running properties of the Southern Rhône, having been within the same family since the 15th century. 

The Roux family decided to sell the jewel Les Pallières to the Bruniers and Kermit Lynch, with their focus and knowledge of Rhône terroir, they recognized their ability to realize its full potential. Domaine Les Pallières became a partnership among friends, and a creative collaboration of three leading, passionate experts on the wines of the Rhône. 

Frédéric and Daniel took over the destiny of the Brunier family business, also founded several generations earlier, by their ancestor Henri Brunier who founded the Domaine in 1891, in a partnership in the late 1980s. Their family involvement continued in 2015 and 2016 with Nicolas son of Frédéric and Edouard, son of Daniel, joining the ‘Old Telegraph’ business in key positions and, Manon, daughter of Frédéric, joining them in 2018.

This release was crafted by brothers Daniel & Frédéric Brunier, co-proprietors of Domaine Vieux Telegraph who collaborated as winemakers.

The Les Pallières 25 acre estate is terraced vineyards on the eastern side of the historic town of Gigondas in the Gigondas Appellation above and to the east and north of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, beneath the Dentelles de Montmirail landmark.

I visited Gigondas and the village of Segurat (shown below) up the hill overlooking the region during my visit to the area back in 1998. 


From the estate, Domaine Les Pallières produces two Gigondas cuvées each year, Les Racines from the plateau around the winery which includes the property's oldest vines, and this Terrasse du Diable from the higher-altitude, cooler parcels. Of the two, the Diable is usually the more powerful yet it manages to maintain a level of elegance. 


Map courtesy of Domaine Vieux Telegraph

This 2018 Gigondas Terrasse Du Diable release is a blend of Chateauneuf du Pape varietals - 90% Grenache from 50 year old vines, 5% Mourvèdre, and 5% Clairette. It comes from yields that ended up being approximately half of the average for the estate (only 11 hectoliters per hectare).

The wine was aged in cuves for 10 months, then in foudres for 12 months.

This was awarded 95 points by Wine Advocate, 92-93 points by James Suckling, and 92 points by Jeb Dunnuck.

Bright Ruby colored, medium to full bodied, bright ripe cherry, plum and red raspberry fruits with notes of mineral, tangy clove spice, bitter dark chocolate and licorice with a long chalky tannin punctuated finish

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3467118

https://www.vieux-telegraphe.fr/en/

https://shop.kermitlynch.com/product/detail/18FPS05/

Saturday, June 15, 2024

Duo of ultra premium Napa Cabs for family celebrations

Duo of ultra premium Napa Cabs for family celebrations … 

For Grandson Reid’s birthday we were invited over for a family gathering and combination birthday and Fathers’ Day celebration dinner. Ryan and Michelle ordered in pasta and pizza and Ryan pulled from his cellar a couple of birthyear ultra-premium red wines. I took from our cellar a matching label to share and compare. 

Hall Exzellenz Rutherford Sacrashe Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

We served this at Christmas last year - certainly one of the best drinking bottles from our cellar - worthy of a special occasion. I featured it in this blogpost at the time, excerpted below:

We discovered, tasted and acquired this label at the magnificent Rutherford Estate Winery during our Napa Wine Experience in 2017. This is sourced from the Sacrashe Vineyard that lies just above the winery adjacent to the estate residence. We hold and have had some of the earlier single vineyard designated wines from this vineyard dating back to 1998. Who knew this would evolve and progress to such heights? Not often does one get to taste a 'perfect' wine. of course perfection is in the eyes ('eyze') of the beholder. The 2013 vintage of this label that we tasted that day in their magnificent tasting room in the cave at the Rutherford Sacrashe estate (shown below) got 100 points from  Robert Parker.

Parker wrote of this wine; "This hails from the foothills of Rutherford and refers to Kathryn Hall’s ambassadorship to Austria between 1997 and 2001. A prodigious wine with beautiful floral notes intermingled with blueberry, blackberry, black raspberry and graphite, the wine hits the palate with a full-bodied force, but nothing seems pushed, cloying or out of sync. Gorgeously pure blue and black fruits cascade over the palate, a full-bodied presentation with remarkable purity and complexity. The finish is a good 45-50 seconds, and while there is significant tannin, the extravagance of the fruit and glycerin generally conceal it. This is a remarkable, one-of-a-kind, world class Cabernet Sauvignon that should prove compelling for at least another 30-40+ years."

Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate. 100 Points.

Sacrashe Vineyard at Hall Rutherford Estate

Hall Exzellenz Rutherford Sacrashe Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

As explained on the rear label, shown below, the name Exzellenz is German for Ambassador, in commemoration of Kathyn Hall's service as US Ambassador to Austria from 1997 to 2001. 

The bricks in the magnificent tasting room in the cave at the Rutherford Sacrashe estate (shown right and above) and featured in a separate blogpost at this link)  are recovered and repurposed from a former royal castle in Austria.  

This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from the Sacrashe Vineyard (shown above) at the Hall Rutherford Estate on the lower slopes of the Vaca Range overlooking Rutherford, Napa Valley.  

While this release didn't get 100 points, it came as close as possible, 99 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 97 points from Owen Bargreen of owenbargreen.com, and 93 points by Wine Enthusiast.

Parker wrote about this wine: "Composed of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and sporting a very deep purple-black color, the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Exzellenz unfurls slowly, tantalizingly out of the glass to reveal powerful, intense scents of crème de cassis, Black Forest cake, blueberry compote and preserved plums with an undercurrent of Chinese five spice, molten chocolate, licorice and Marmite toast with wafts of garrigue and camphor. Very rich, full-bodied and concentrated on the palate, it coats the mouth with black and blue fruit preserves plus tons of spice and savory accents, held together by a rock-solid, grainy frame and finishing with epic persistence."

Consistent with our earlier tastings of this label - Spectacular! Delicious! Enchanting! Deep dark garnet colored, full bodied, rich, concentrated, round, rich, complex but elegant and seductive smooth blackberry and black currant fruits accented by savory clove/cinnamon spices, tones of crème de cassis, mocha chocolate, tobacco leaf and black tea, with a tongue coating dusty gripping but silky smooth tannin laced lingering finish. 

RM 97 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2508301

https://twitter.com/HALLWines

@HALLWines 


For the special family occasion, I brought this ultra-premium label from our cellar and it proved a perfect match comparison. The Exzellenz and the Del Dotto Family Reserve had remarkably similar tasting profiles albeit the Del Dotto being strikingly more bold and assertive but on the same tasting curve.   

Del Dotto St Helena Mountain Family Reserve Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 

We tasted and acquired this bottle at the Del Dotto Winery Cave Tour Tasting in St Helena during our Napa Wine Experience in 2017. That tasting was from the barrel. This is another spectacular memorable Napa Valley tasting destination experience.

We've been collecting Del Dotto Family Wine for over twenty-five years, since their inaugural release of this Napa Cabernet in 1993. The Del Dotto brand, holdings, portfolio and presence have grown substantially over those years, yet they still maintain their focus on small production, premium wines. 

Over that time Dave Del Dotto has acquired vineyards in some of the best American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) including Rutherford, Oakville, St. Helena, Howell Mountain, and Fort Ross-Seaview Sonoma Coast. The portfolio and brand has grown proportionally as well. 

Today Del Dotto produce wines based on cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, sangiovese and sauvignon blanc from their Napa Valley vineyards, as well as pinot noir, chardonnay and limited amounts of syrah, sauvignon blanc, sparkling grenache and mourvedre from their Cinghiale (wild boar) Vineyard in the King Ridge region of the Sonoma Coast.

We still hold nearly two decades of Del Dotto wines dating back to that 1993 inaugural vintage release. 

Over the years we've held Del Dotto wine dinners with Dave and Yolanda such as our Napa Wine Experience back in 1999, and attended numerous Del Dotto hosted special events. More recently, our Pour Boys wine group did the Del Dotto Napa Valley Cave Tour and Barrel Tasting at the magnificent St Helena estate winery and caves. And, our Del Dotto Piazza DELICACIES Food and Wine Experience at the then new Piazza Del Dotto estate and winery (and now caves) was one of the memorable highlights of our Napa Wine Experience in 2018. 

Its hard to believe that with published tasting notes of no less than sixty-five different labels and vintage releases - and countless iterations thereof, I have not tasted, or published a tasting note or blogpost of this particular label vintage release.

Our collection of Del Dotto family wines remains one of the largest holdings in our cellar with both vertical and horizontal collections of favorite labels. Hence it was only fitting for a special occasion family dinner that I took a Del Dotto Family Reserve estate label.

This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Del Dotto St. Helena Mountain Vineyard​. This is the same fruit that is used in their super ultra-premium label The Beast. I wish we had more of this to experience over the years as it ages but it was spectacular tonight in its 9th year - clearly at the apex of its tasting window, not likely to improve with further aging, but assuredly will hold and drink well for a couple decades to come!

Winemaker’s notes for this label - “The St. Helena Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon has immense power and body with enough integration to achieve 100-point status in previous vintages. The color is an opaque purple and visually viscous. This particular selection is the finest combination of French Oaks along with the best blocks from the 12-acre estate along the base of the Mayacamas mountain range. The bouquet is dense with notes of black plum, molasses, allspice and marmalade. The mouthfeel is velvety with a hint of boysenberry, mocha, roasted walnut and dark chocolate. The tannins are firm and well balanced.”

Bright ruby colored, full bodied, huge, dense, powerful, firm structured, rich, concentrated, black berry and black currant fruits with notes of cognac, clove cinnamon spice, layers of oak, tobacco, black tea and black olive notes with hints of dark bitter chocolate and crème d’cassis with tongue coating sweet oaky tannins on the lingering finish. 

RM 95 points. 



@deldottowines

Château Beau-Séjour Bécot St Emilion Premiere Grand Cru Classe 2015

Another top label from Reid’s birthyear vintage, Château Beau-Séjour Bécot is a fantastic example of a full, round, flavorful, powerful expression of Saint-Émilion terroir. Château Beau-Séjour Bécot is owned by the Becot family who has overseen the property for several generations. It is designated a Saint-Émilion Grand Crus Classés estate. 

The estate lies on the St Martin de Mazerat plateau, immediately to the west of the old town, Beau-Séjour Bécot lies in the very heart of the Saint-Emilion appellation area just outside the commune of St Emilion very near some of our favorite producers, Châteaux Canon and Le Gaffeliere. 

The Becot family hired the legendary oenologist and consultant Michel Rolland to establish and maintain the estate’s classification.

Château Beau-Séjour Bécot has a long storied history in the Right Bank. The vines on the grounds were first cultivated by the ancient Romans who recognized the promise of the terroir centuries ago. The grounds of this property still hold stone ruins scattered amongst from those early days. At one point, the property was owned by the Monks of the Saint Martin Abbey in Saint-Émilion, who also owned and tended the vines of Château Canon. 

The monks of Saint-Martin de Mazerat were followed by the Gères, lords of Camarsac. In 1722 one of their descendants, Jeanne de Gères, brought the Domaine de Peycoucou into the estate of the Carles de Figeac family on her marriage. In 1787 General Jacques de Carles de Figeac renamed the estate Château Beau-Séjour, which means “beautiful resting place.” 

General Jacques de Carles was without successors - Beau-Séjour eventually came into the possession in 1924 of Doctor Jean Fagouet, who enlarged the vineyard, increasing its surface area to 10.5 hectares (26 acres). Michel Bécot, born into a wine growing family who had lived in Saint-Emilion since 1760 and owner of the neighbouring Château La Carte since 1929, purchased the estate in 1969. 

In 1979, the Bécot family further enlarged the estate with the purchase of 4.5 hectares (11 acres) on the Trois Moulins plateau. The estate, which then became known as Château Beau-Séjour Bécot, is today a
substantial 16.6-hectare (41-acre) holding on a perfectly uniform terroir. Michel Bécot retired in 1985, turning over the management of the Château to his two sons Gérard and Dominique.

The vines at Château Beau-Séjour Bécot are typically 45 years old primarily planted to the appellation specific Merlot, interspersed with the customary varietal Cabernet Franc for added dimension and complexity.

The 2015 Beau-Sejour Becot is composed in a somewhat traditional or customary St Emilion blend of 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. It was aged in 85% new and 15% one-year-old French oak for 17 months.

It was rated 96 points by Wine Enthusiast, 95 points by Wine Spectator, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and James Suckling, and 94 points by Decanter. It was #55 Wine Spectator Top 100 of 2018 and a ‘Cellar Selection’.

This was not exactly a fair fight, or comparison with the rich almost obtuse forward vibrant single varietal Cabernet Sauvignons. A Right Bank Bordeaux Blend, predominantly Merlot based it was more complex yet nicely balanced and integrated. It begs for a filet of beef pairing. 

Dark garnet colored medium to full bodied, complex round, full ripe plum and blackberry and black cherry fruits with touches of spice box, tobacco, lavender and cedar with rich, firm but silky smooth polished tannins on the long floral finish.

RM 94 points.