Showing posts with label Sauternes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sauternes. Show all posts

Friday, December 8, 2023

Pour Boys Holiday Wine Dinner 2023

Pour Boys Holiday Wine Dinner 2023

Dr Dan and Linda hosted Lyle and Terry and Linda and me for a 'Pour Boys' wine group holiday dinner. They prepared Veal Marsala as the main entree dish with mashed potatoes, brussel sprouts, mixed green salad and roasted red pepper soup.

 
Before dinner they served a medley of artisan cheeses and charcuterie. 

Dan pulled from his cellar a horizontal selection of 2011 vintage vineyard designated Aussie Shiraz' from producer Clarendon Hills. 

What a treat to taste three different designated vineyard selections from the same vintage - thereby called a 'horizontal' collection. 

Clarendon Hills produced these different vineyard specific Shiraz's in 2011 - Bakers Gully, Moritz and Liandra vineyards. Dan was able to obtain this collection at auction for this special tasting. 

Clarendon Hills is a small family run winery based in Clarendon, South Australia, founded by biochemist Roman Bratasiuk in 1990, the self-taught winemaking proprietor. Considered somewhat of a maverick within the Australian industry, Roman changed the landscape of Australian fine wine. Roman’s prophetic vision was to introduce the single vineyard concept to Australian wine. 

Roman purchased a 160ha property high in the hill country of Clarendon at an altitude close to that of the Adelaide Hills. Here he established a vineyard with single-stake trellising similar to that used on the steep slopes of Germany and Austria; it produces the Domaine Clarendon Syrah. Sons Adam and Alex have joined their father in the business – Adam in the winery, Alex managing the future direction of Clarendon Hills. -JAMES HALLIDAY

Roman pioneered the Australian Grenache category with the release of Australia’s first single vineyard, 100% Grenache: the 1991 Clarendon Hills Blewitt Springs Grenache, then extended that approach to Shiraz. 

He also developed what became his flagship ultra-premium label, one of Australia’s greatest single vineyards with his Astralis Syrah vineyard in Blewitt Springs. Over the following 3 decades Roman and Clarendon Hills developed a world-wide, first-class reputation highlighting remarkable old vine Grenache, Syrah and Cabernet vineyards from the Blewitt Springs and Clarendon sub districts.

The McLaren Vale terroir with close proximity to the Great Southern Ocean and St Vincent Gulf, in combination with old mature vines produce wines that typify the region with freshness and bright natural acidity derived from the marine climate.

Clarendon Hills Syrah’s are considered among the very best in Australia from arguably Australia’s greatest single vineyard Syrah, Astralis, Clarendon Hills has added a number of individual, exceptional, single vineyard old vine expressions to the portfolio.

Roman adopted a ‘Burgundian’ approach to branding producing 19 single vineyard designated wines, reflecting an internal hierarchy seen in the old-world with their Village wine, Premier-Cru and Grand-Cru classifications. 

"Roman Bratasiuk is one of planet earth's greatest winemakers" - Robert Parker Jr, Wine Advocate 5 Star Winery - Halliday Wine Companion

Clarendon Hills Bakers Gully Syrah 2011

This release got 92 points by Halliday Wine Companion and 90+ by Wine Advocate.

Aggregate of Cellartracker scores of 89.8

Dark ink color in the glass. Smooth with well integrated tannins. Hint of black pepper. Really good qpr - better value than the Liandra and actually enjoyed it better

 https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1953002

Clarendon Hills Liandra Vineyard Syrah 2011

The Clarendon Hills Liandra Syrah site is located in the Blewitt Springs sub-region of McLaren Vale, a sandy section of the famous Blewitt Springs sands.

Aggregate of ten Cellartracker scores of 88

CT'er - Deep, dark and full bodied. Subdued fruit. Hints of black pepper and solid tannins. Good.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1953013

Clarendon Hills Moritz Vineyard Syrah 2011

Winemaker's Notes - The Moritz vineyard was planted in 1975 in a fine sandy soil with pebbled ironstone top soil. Located in the lowest elevated sub-district Kangarilla it is dry-grown and trellised. The Syrah vines are encouraged to yield approximately 2 tonne per acre or 34 hectolitres per hectare. Consistent vineyard characters include coffee, blue berry and black olive like vibrance in the primary fruit spectrum. Moritz displays balance and intensity. Bitter chocolate and coffee flavors mingle with the earthy meatiness and combine to provide a supple experience. 

Aggregate of ten Cellartracker scores of 90.3

Initial nose was acidic and dark red fruit. Wild herbs, a little mint, later after some decanting there was cola. Very intense taste of tart berries. A little pepper in the middle. nice tannins at the front long tart finish. Intensely fruity without being sweet. Savory notes appear after on the pallette after about 1 hour in the decanter  Excellent.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1955271

https://clarendonhills.com.au/

 To pair and compare with the horizontal flight I brought another vineyard designated label Napa Valley Shiraz from Venge Vineyards, one of our favorite producers, from the 2010 vintage.

Lyle brought from his cellar another 2010 vintage release of Sonoma County Bordeaux Blend, Cinq Cépages from Château St. Jean. We've visited the Chateau estate winery on several occasions over the years including during our Napa/Sonoma Wine Experience 2017.

With the starter courses Dan served Sea Smoke Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay 2014.

I mentioned that during our recent week retreat to our Florida vacation rental home, I read a couple books, including most notably, "A Perfect Score" by producer Kathleen Hall of Hall Vineyards. We obtained signed copies of this book at the Producer release tour tasting in Chicago with Dan & Linda. 

To commemorate that memorable evening, and the festive holiday, Dan graciously pulled from his cellar a bottle of Hall flagship Excellenz, also from the 2014 vintage. We tasted and acquired this wine during our visit to the producer during our Napa Wine Experience in 2017. 

I mentioned that we tasted the 2013 vintage release of this wine at our family Christmas celebration last year and I noted that that wine was on par with and notably perhaps the best bottle of California or Napa Valley wine I ever experienced. I featured that bottle in this blogpost at the time.

Exzellenz and aged Robert Craig Mt Veeder for holiday celebration gathering

The kids and grandkids assembled at our house following the annual ritualistic Santa's breakfast at our local Seven Bridges Golf Club.

For such a festive family gathering, the boys went down to the cellar and pulled two memorable, notable bottles, Hall's flagship ultra-premium Exzellenz Napa Cabernet, from the grandkids birthyear 2015 vintage, and the historic inaugural vintage release of Robert Craig Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon, 1993.

Hall Exzellenz Rutherford Sacrashe Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

We discovered, tasted and acquired this label at the magnificent Rutherford Estate Winery during our Napa Wine Experience in 2017. This is sourced from the Sacrashe Vineyard that lies just above the winery adjacent to the estate residence. We hold and have had some of the earlier single vineyard designated wines from this vineyard dating back to 1998. Who knew this would evolve and progress to such heights? Not often does one get to taste a 'perfect' wine. of course perfection is in the eyes ('eyze') of the beholder. The 2013 vintage of this label that we tasted that day in their magnificent tasting room in the cave at the Rutherford Sacrashe estate (shown below) got 100 points from  Robert Parker.

Parker wrote of this wine; "This hails from the foothills of Rutherford and refers to Kathryn Hall’s ambassadorship to Austria between 1997 and 2001. A prodigious wine with beautiful floral notes intermingled with blueberry, blackberry, black raspberry and graphite, the wine hits the palate with a full-bodied force, but nothing seems pushed, cloying or out of sync. Gorgeously pure blue and black fruits cascade over the palate, a full-bodied presentation with remarkable purity and complexity. The finish is a good 45-50 seconds, and while there is significant tannin, the extravagance of the fruit and glycerin generally conceal it. This is a remarkable, one-of-a-kind, world class Cabernet Sauvignon that should prove compelling for at least another 30-40+ years."

Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate. 100 Points.

Sacrashe Vineyard at Hall Rutherford Estate

What a treat, and what better way to enjoy such a spectacular cellar selection than with family - especially my two sons who are becoming oenphiles in their own right, like me! 

Hall Exzellenz Rutherford Sacrashe Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

As explained on the rear label, shown below, the name Exzellenz is German for Ambassador, in commemoration of Kathyn Hall's service as US Ambassador to Austria from 1997 to 2001. 

The bricks in in the magnificent tasting room in the cave at the Rutherford Sacrashe estate (shown right and above) and featured in a separate blogpost at this link)  are recovered and repurposed from a former royal castle in Austria.  

This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from the Sacrashe Vineyard (shown above) at the Hall Rutherford Estate on the lower slopes of the Vaca Range overlooking Rutherford, Napa Valley. 

While this release didn't get 100 points, it came as close as possible, 99 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 97 points from Owen Bargreen of owenbargreen.com, and 93 points by Wine Enthusiast.

Parker wrote about this wine: "Composed of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and sporting a very deep purple-black color, the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Exzellenz unfurls slowly, tantalizingly out of the glass to reveal powerful, intense scents of crème de cassis, Black Forest cake, blueberry compote and preserved plums with an undercurrent of Chinese five spice, molten chocolate, licorice and Marmite toast with wafts of garrigue and camphor. Very rich, full-bodied and concentrated on the palate, it coats the mouth with black and blue fruit preserves plus tons of spice and savory accents, held together by a rock-solid, grainy frame and finishing with epic persistence."

Spectacular! Delicious! Enchanting! Deep dark garnet colored, full bodied, rich, concentrated, round, rich, complex but elegant and seductive smooth blackberry and black currant fruits accented by savory clove/cinnamon spices, tones of crème de cassis, mocha chocolate, tobacco leaf and black tea, with a tongue coating dusty gripping but silky smooth tannin laced lingering finish. 

RM 97 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2508301

So tonight, we tasted the 2014 vintage release of this ultra-premium label.  

 Hall "Exzellenz" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

This release was awarded a monumental 99 points by Jeb Dunnuck, and 95 points by Wine Advocate.

Deep dark garnet/purple colored,  full-bodied, firmly structured and muscular yet nicely balanced, smooth and polished, rich round blackberry and plum fruits, Wine Advocate cites 'mulberries, smoked meat. Indian spices and tree bark', hints of Crème de cassis, toasty oak and graphite on a long firm chewy tannin laced finish.

RM 95 points. 

https://twitter.com/HALLWines

@HALLWines

Hall Rutherford Winery Estate Appellation Tasting

Our visit to the Hall Rutherford Estate was one of the highlights of our Napa Sonoma Wine Experience 2017.

We wrote in earlier visit blogposts about the spectacular Hall Rutherford estate and cave tours at the Rutherford estate sitting in the Sacrashe Vineyard, with hospitality rooms above the wine production area, barrel caves and tasting room below.

The magnificent caves are sculpted into the mountain with bricks brought from an Austrian castle and features alcoves that create a galley of sculpture art.

The magnificent tasting room (shown left) at the end of the barrel cave features a large table for thirty guests underneath a massive chandelier fashioned from a thousand year old grape vine.

Hall Exzellenz Rutherford Sacrashe Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

This is sourced from the Sacrashe Vineyard that lies just above the winery adjacent to the estate residence. We hold some of the earlier single vineyard designated wines from this vineyard dating back to 1998. Who knew this would evolve and progress to such heights? Not often does one get to taste a 'perfect' wine. of course perfection is in the eyes ('eyze') of the beholder. This wine got 100 points from Robert Parker.

Parker wrote of this wine; "This hails from the foothills of Rutherford and refers to Kathryn Hall’s ambassadorship to Austria between 1997 and 2001. A prodigious wine with beautiful floral notes intermingled with blueberry, blackberry, black raspberry and graphite, the wine hits the palate with a full-bodied force, but nothing seems pushed, cloying or out of sync. Gorgeously pure blue and black fruits cascade over the palate, a full-bodied presentation with remarkable purity and complexity. The finish is a good 45-50 seconds, and while there is significant tannin, the extravagance of the fruit and glycerin generally conceal it. This is a remarkable, one-of-a-kind, world class Cabernet Sauvignon that should prove compelling for at least another 30-40+ years."

Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate. 100 Points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1873772

Exzellence 2014 ...

From a tasting 11/14/2020 - I wrote: 

WOTN - Wine of the Night - Deep garnet-purple color, full-bodied, firmly structured yet perfectly balanced and silky smooth, elegant and polished, full concentrated black berry fruits with notes of crème de cassis, graphite, hints of cigar box and what Robert Parker described as tree bark turning to a long sinewy spicy oak laced finish. 

RM 96 Points.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/11/fabulous-premium-wine-flight-for.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2508295


Château St. Jean "Cinq Cépages" Sonoma County Bordeaux Blend 2010

The Exzellenc compared nicely with the Cinq Cépages that Lyle brought from his cellar. 

We featured our visit to the Chateau during our Napa Sonoma Wine Experience in 2017 in this blogpost Chateau St Jean Sonoma Reserve Private Tasting.

We had this release with Lyle and Terry when he rbrought it BYOB to a local Trattoria in their West Loop neighborhood for a festive holiday dinner as featured in this blogpost Cinq Cépages BYOB at Mart Anthony Chicago.

At that time, I wrote, "This 2010 vintage may be the best Cinq Cépages I have had - bigger, fuller and more concentrated than any I remember. This was immediately apparent when we opened and poured the dark inky purple thick full bodied juice into the glass while the room filled with bright floral and berry fruit aromatics." 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2017/12/robert-craig-veeder-cinq-cepages-byob.html

We hold a dozen vintages of this label dating back to the 1994 vintage, one of our favorites from this producer. This is a classic label, Cinq Cepages referring to the five flavors derived from the five designated Bordeaux varietals included in the blend - Cabernet Sauvignon (78%), Merlot (12%), Cabernet Franc (5%), Petit Verdot and Malbec. 

This label gained notoriety when the 1996 Cinq Cépages was named the #1 Wine of the Year in Wine Spectator's Top 100 list, and later the 1999 vintage went on to be named number two.

Winemaker's notes: "The 2010 Cinq Cépages is a stunning color in the glass, deep ruby with a subtle violet colored rim. Layered aromas are vivid; black plum, blackberry compote, clove spice, tanned leather and a hint of fresh tobacco leaf. Secondary aromas of raspberry and spiced cherry mingle with notes of violet and pomegranate. The aromas lead to an incredibly juicy palate with flavors of blueberry, cherry and blackberry. Nuanced flavors of espresso and a distinct mocha component add to the complexity. The full-bodied wine has smooth, silky tannins that offer solid structure but do not overwhelm. The wine is plush and approachable yet complex and appealing in the glass. In signature Cinq Cépages form, this wine combines the strength of the diverse Sonoma County region to create a well-balanced, complex and powerful wine."

This vintage release was awarded 93 points by Wine Spectator, and 92 points by Wine Advocate and Vinous. 

Dark garnet purple colored, medium to full-bodied, firm, dense structured blackberry, black cherry and plum fruits with notes of spice, earthy, smokey cedar, cigar box and black olive with smooth moderate polished tannins on the finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1710008

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2017/12/robert-craig-veeder-cinq-cepages-byob.html

For pairing with Dan's Clarendon Hills Shiraz', I brought this Napa Valley label. 

Venge Vineyards "Stagecoach Vineyard - Block I-4" Napa Valley Syrah 2010

Venge are one of our favorite Napa Valley producers that we've been enjoying since the 1980's. We've had dozens of vintages and many labels from this producer which we've visited in Napa Valley several times, and this the first Venge Syrah we've ever had. We obtained this limited production single vineyard desigated release at auction recently and we were eager to try it. We recently obtained a mixed case of four vintages of this label and tonight we brought this, the oldest vintage release.

This relessae was awarded 94 points by Wine Enthusiast and 91 points by Wine Spectator.

Wine Enthusiast noted, "With this wine, Venge has taken a giant leap into the front ranks of California Syrah producers". 

This is sourced from the legendary Stagecoach Vineyard, which sits high up on Atlas Peak in the Vaca Range that forms the eastern boundary wall of Napa Valley. 

This wine was aged in 60% new French oak. 

Dark inky purple colored, medium full bodied, with dense extracted briary blackberry fruits accented by a layer of licorie and spice with notes of herbs and tobacco leaf with chewy chunky tannins on the full finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1873772

 After dinner with the dessert and chocolates we had this aged Sauterne dessert wine that we brought from our cellar. 

Château La Tour Blanche Sauternes Bordeaux 1998

We enjoy tasting this wine at the UGCB Release Tour tastings each year. 

Some UGCB reports: 

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux Chicago - Bordeaux Producers 2010 Release Tasting Chicago

UGC Bordeaux 2013 Release Tour Chicago 2016 - UGC Bordeaux 2013 Release Tour Chicago 2016

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux Chicago 2015 - Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGC) 2012 Vintage Release Tasting Chicago

Considered as one of the first Grand Cru Classé of Sauternes, Château La Tour Blanche from the estate of the same name is known for classic Bordeaux viticulture.

Founded in the 17th century by Monsieur de Latour Blanche, the Château la Tour Blanche estate produces all kinds of wines. The first owner was a squire, adviser to the Parliament of Bordeaux. In 1855, this wine was recognized as Premier Grand Cru Classé of Sauternes during the World Fair. The estate was bought in 1876 by Daniel Iffla.

Château La Tour Blanche is unique among the classed growths in Sauternes. It is owned by the state and is home to the La Tour Blanche School of Viticulture and Oenology. The First Growth's benevolent status was down to the generosity of its owner, Daniel Iffla, who went by the name Osiris, and was a powerful financier and philanthropist whose only stipulation with La Tour Blanche was the founding of a wine school. 

In 1907, the latter bequeathed it to the French state after his death and to this day, the entire estate is owned by the Ministry of Agriculture. In order to respect the wishes of the deceased owner, a school of wine making and viticulture was established in 1911, built on the estate to accommodate the children of the region. Today, the viticultural high school of the Château de La Tour Blanche trains many technicians and vineyard enthusiasts.

The estate covers an area of 70 hectares, a large part, 44 are covered in vineyards composed of Sémillon, Sauvignon and Muscadelle. The estate is composed of gravelly soil favorable to surface drainage. This arrangement eliminates much more moisture at the foot of the vines, thus contributing to the improvement of the production. 

The establishment produces primarily sweet wines, classified under the name “Sauternes“, a designation of controlled origin in the appellation Sauternais, one of the many subdivisions of the Bordeaux region. A dry white is also made along with an extremely rare red wine made composed from Merlot.

As is custom in Sauterne, this is a Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc Blend - Semillon (~77%), Sauvignon Blanc (~20%), and Muscadelle (~3%).

It was awarded 93 points by Wine Advocate and 91 points by Wine Spectator and two others.

Winemaker notes - The colour is straw yellow. The nose reveals loads of fresh fruits, such as apricot or peach, but also beeswax and cinnamon. In mouth the attack is very supple with much fullness and roundness. Great aromatic complexity dominated by candied fruits is present. The final is spicy, developing to honeysweetened savours.

Vintage characteristics: The year 1998 was marked by difficult weather conditions. Indeed, after a very dry end of winter, the wet weather in April delayed the vegetation (174 millimetres and 22 days of rain). The period from May until the end of August was again character- ised by extreme dry conditions. Then September was very similar to April with 94 milli- metres and 17 days of rain. So maturity and overmaturation were disturbed, and the grape harvest began only on September 28. Sanitary sorting involved a little loss, but thereafter everything went well thanks to a nice month of October, which made it possible to obtain very high concentrations.

Number of bottles produced: 39,000

Deep golden color. This is nicely balanced, mid-weight and fresh, with notes of saffron, apricot jam, some sweet spices, honey, caramel, some smokey botrytis notes, some flowery notes too and figs. It‘s medium+ bodied, with medium acidity and just beautiful overall balance of sweetness and acidity. Pretty long finish. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=75950

Tuesday, July 23, 2019

Restaurant Le Savoie Marqaux

Restaurant Le Savoie Marqaux

Our first night in Margaux, Bordeaux, we walked a few blocks from the Chambres de Margaux, our B-n-B residence, to the Restaurant Le Savoie in the Margaux village centre on the main D2 Route du Medoc. It is the fine dining establishment in the village.

Savoie offers outdoor seating, indoor seating, or a solarium setting behind the restaurant in a courtyard setting. We opted to sit in between in the solarium tent like setting in the courtyard outside the dining room.



The restaurant offers a range of menu options for either the " Bistrot " lunch or the evening " Le Savoie " gourmand dinner.

The bistro lunch options:
Formulas (lunch and dinner) / Set menus lunchtime and evening
1 Entrance / 1 Starter
€ 16
1 Dish / 1 Dish
€ 19
1 Dessert / 1 Dessert
€ 10
1 Starter + 1 Dish / 1 Starter + 1 Dish
$ 29
1 Course + 1 dessert / 1 Dish + 1 Dessert
€ 26

The dinner options:
Starter + 1 fish + 1 meat + 1 dessert
76
1 starter + 1 fish or 1 meat + dessert
€ 56
1 entry + 1 dish
€ 46
1 course + 1 dessert

 € 38 

I had the Beef filet tournedos Rossini, foie gras ice cream, truffle macaroon and cep.


Linda had the sea scallops.

 

After dinner we had the plate of refined cheese "Jean Yves Bordier.


There is a wine bar and respectable wine list that offers 170 wine references including 35 grands crus classés. While the restaurant is sited in Margaux, the winelist favors local Margaux producers.

Having just visited Château Leoville Las Cases earlier in the day up in St Julien, we opted for the Las Cases selection, Clos du Marquis, Saint Julien, 2006.


For the dessert course we had the berry sorbet.


From the wine list we ordered a Sauternes dessert wine, Château Roumieu 2015.





www.lesavoie.net
 


Saturday, June 1, 2019

Chez Joel Authentic French Bistro Cuisine

Chez Joel Authentic Bistro Cuisine with High QPR Wine Selections

For pre-(White Sox) game dinner, we dined at one of our favorite eateries in the City (Chicago), Chez Joel on Taylor Street. As usual the service was outstanding, food was delectable and the price was agreeable.

Chez Joel is quaint, artsy, intimate, tasteful, comfortable,  authentic yet unpretentious in its French Bistro setting and faire. We love sitting outside in the adjacent courtyard but tonight we had our favorite front window, corner round table so we opted to each inside.

Fellow 'Pour Boy', Dr. Dan and I had the Duck Confit, Linda A had the strip steak with pomme frits and Linda J had the grouper.

All the entrees were excellent - well prepared, artful presentations, ample portions, served hot, and with appropriate accompaniments.

Chez Joel main dining room offers comfortable,
intimate dining.

For the starter courses, Dan had the frog legs and I had the beet salad.

From the small but carefully crafted winelist, we selected the Mason Les Alexandrins from the Northern Rhone appellation of Crozes-Hermitage which is a 100% Syrah.

The Chez Joel winelist is small and limited but the selections are carefully chosen such that they represent excellent values and appropriate accompaniments to the menu at good moderate price-points. The winelist offers such reasonable values, that we don't feel pressed to BYOB as we do in so many establishments.

Artful presentation of Linda's Grouper

Maison Les Alexandrins Crozes-Hermitage 2017

While not as elegant, concentrated, complex or intense as some of the recent Syrahs featured in these pages, this is a fraction of their price. A fun and fitting comparison that holds its own very nicely against the pair of Croze-Hermitages we tasted in Paris last week (and the second one). 

Crozes Hermitage is the biggest vineyard among the Northern Rhône appellations with 3200 acres. It is spread over 11 different communes situated in the department of La Drôme on the left bank of the Rhône River.

Deep purple ruby colored, medium bodied, bright vibrant black berry and black cherry fruits, notes of smoky, spices and hints of black pepper, nice balance of acidity, turning to smooth silky tannins on a long finish. An outstanding QPR, high quality to price ratio wine.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/editnote.asp?iWine=3286227

Reviewed by: Jeb Dunnuck - 90 pts
Reviewed by: The Wine Advocate
- 90-92 pts

http://lesalexandrins.com/en/

Chateau Mangot St Emilion Grand Cru 2014

For the entree course we selected this label which ideal with the steak and duck courses. We've had this wine before from the winelist at Chez Joel over the years, in several vintages. It consistently represents great value in a quality appropriate selection at a fair and moderate price-point.

This cru, is from the St Emilion Grand Cru appellation, crafted  from the Estate's 4 terroirs spread between the foot of the slopes, slopes, terraces and plateaux. It is a blend of 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from the 21 different plots that of the Estate vineyards.

Bright garnet colored, medium bodied, tangy black berry and black currant and plum fruits, spice, floral and notes of anise and cedar, dry with cloying tannins on the long finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/editnote.asp?iWine=2533218

https://www.chateaumangot.fr/en/

After dinner we had the sorbet, almond gateaux and cappucinos we had from the BTG (by the glass) winelist selections, the Late Harvest Semillon, Château Haut Sarthes, Sauterne, Bordeaux, an ideal combination.
 As can be expected at Chez Joel, a wonderful, relaxing fun wine and dine evening.

http://chezjoelbistro.com/

Sunday, February 25, 2018

OTBN 2018

OTBN - Open That Bottle Night 2018

The last Saturday in February brings OTBN - (Open That Bottle Night), our ritualistic gathering of Pour Boys wine group. Lyle and Terry hosted this year, christening their new kitchen with a spectacular beef tenderloin dinner.

Readers of these pages know that OTBN stands for Open That Bottle Night, the annual wine event for collectors and oenophile wine enthusiasts, the night set aside to pull that special bottle being held in the cellar for an occasion whose time has not yet come. So once a year, what the heck, OTBN - open that bottle (to)night.

As always, the event provided a wonderful gathering, great food, fellowship, and of course, some extraordinary wines.

For before dinner appetizers, Lyle and Terry served an extensive selection of artisan cheeses, vegetables and charcuterie; Smoked Salmon w/capers, horseradish sauce & red onion, Pickled mushrooms w/capers, Bloomin’ onion bread, selections of cheeses, pickled beans & asparagus, olives, assortment of breads and crackers.

With the initial courses there was a wine flight of two champagnes and a Gratis Sea Smoke Chardonnay from Santa Barbara Santa Rita Hills, 2008.

The dinner feast included salad, Hoppin John’s Good Luck Soup w/Cornbread, Beef Tenderloin, Scalloped Potatoes and Broccoli – Ginger stir fry.



The wine flight featured a broad selection of Bordeaux from Pauillac, St Julien and Margaux and a flight of Napa Cabernets.

Bordeaux:
  • Cantenac Brown Margaux 2012
  • Château Haut Batailley Pauillac 2000 
  • Château Pichon Lalande 2009
  • Ducru Beaucaillou St Julien 1989 and 2009 

Château Pichon (Longueville Comtesse de) Lalande Grande Cru Classe' Pauillac Bordeaux 2009

Like the Ducru Beaucaillou, Pichon Lalande is often noted as one of the 'super seconds' - or second growths that often rival the premiere 'First Growths', as they are specified according to the great 1855 Bordeaux Classification.

This is typically one of my favorite Bordeaux labels.  Typically I am drinking this wine after a decade or more of aging such that this 2009 at this stage seems young to me even at nine years.

Not nearly as big, dense and structured as the Ducru from the same vintage, this is more polished and almost elegant in comparison.

Deep purple, dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, bright expressive floral notes with ripe sweet black berry and black plum fruits with notes of mocha, cassis, graphite, and hints of leather. This is a classic Bordeaux style blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot.

RM 93 points. 

96 points James Suckling, 95 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 94 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar 
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=873674

I called Dan in preparation for this evening's festivities to compare and coordinate wine selections. When he told me he was bringing a Ducru 2009, I went down in the cellar and pulled this 1989 to share and compare.

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou Grande Cru Classe' St Julien Bordeaux 2009

This highly acclaimed release of this top ranked Chateau, the 2009 Ducru was definitely one of the highlights of the evening with its opulent full bodied, rich concentrated complex fruit. Like the Pichon Lalande, this was one of the 'signature' wines I served from large format bottles at my kid's wedding (s).

We no doubt drank this too early as it will most assuredly age well for decades to come. Never-the-less, this was approachable and delivering early gratification with its full throttle intense, layered fruit. Robert Parker gave this wine 100 points and projects it will last 40-50 years.

This is a massive wine that could likely benefit from several years of aging to round out and smooth off the edges. Dark garnet colored, full bodied, concentrated complex firm backbone of black berry and black raspberry fruits accented by layers of graphite, creme de cassis, dark mocha chocolate, expresso and smokey tannins on a lingering firm finish.

This is a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot.

RM 95 points.

100 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 96 points James Suckling and Wine Spectator, 95 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=874508

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou St Julien Bordeaux 1989

I acquired a case (OWC - original wood case) of this wine upon release years ago and still hold several remaining bottles. This showed very well tonight standing up better to its age than in some previous tastings. Amazingly resilient and presentable at nearly thirty years. 

Tonight was consistent with my notes from a decade ago. Garnet color - medium-light delicate body; floral perfume, black cherry and berry fruits with layers of anise, tobacco and black tea and a hint of leather, with floral continuing on a modest tannin finish. An interesting comparison to the 2009, very different profile between the two vintages, but showing some signs of similarity in the terroir character of the label. Based on tonights experience, I pushed the drinking window out from 2017 to 2019.

RM 90 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1625


Château Haut Batailley Grand Cru Classe' Pauillac Bordeaux 2000

The 2000 vintage Bordeaux was highly acclaimed. As often stated in top vintages, 'all boats rise with the tide', so that, less heralded labels often produce extraordinary wines in such years. The 2000 Haut Batailley was noted by Wine Spectator to be "the best wine from this estate in decades" (92 points). Robert Parker said it was "one of the finest Haut-Batailleys ever made (it certainly rivals the 1996)".

This was dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, with dark berry and currant flavors accented by mocha chocolate, hints of cassis, classic Pauillac graphite and tobacco notes, and toasty oak with smooth soft tannins on a pleasant lingering finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=8540

The flight of Napa Valley Cabernets:
  • Freemark Abbey Sycamore Vineyard 1985
  • Del Dotto Vineyards Estate Rutherford 1997 and 1998
  • Fantesca Estate Vineyards from Spring Mountain District, 2006

Some notes - more to follow.

Freemark Abbey Napa Valley Sycamore Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1985

Bill brought this from his cellar back in South Carolina. He has been collecting this wine for several decades and this is remarkable testimony to this wines ageability.

We visited the winery and explored the library and acquired some aged vintages for special commemorative anniversary dinners during our Napa Valley Wine Experience back in 2009.

Incredible, amazing life left in this 33 year old, showing no signs of diminution, even at this age! Dark purplish garnet colored, medium full bodied, rich concentrated complex black berry and black cherry fruits with a subdued layer of soft cedar/camphor with cigar box and moderate acidity on the moderate tannin lingering finish. RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=337771
Fantesca Estate Vineyards, Napa Valley Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006

Fantesca is one of our favorite Napa Cabs. We tasted as pre-release and Bill acquired this during one of our visits to the estate on lower Spring Mountain overlooking St Helena on the valley floor below.

This was the youngest Napa Cab tasted yet was a dozen years of age. As such, it was the most vibrant, forward, and concentrated of those featured, yet it was very approachable, nicely integrated, balanced, smooth and polished, clearly the favorite of some of the ladies.

Bill's Cellartracker notes - "Elegant, fruit forward offering from Spring Mountain. Deep, dark, cherry color in the glass. Dark, black and blue fruit on the palate."

WCC and I both give this 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=741381


Del Dotto Estate Napa Valley Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon 1997-1998

Our Del Dotto Cave Tour and tasting at the Rutherford Estate was one of the highlights of our Napa Valley Wine Experience this summer. Several of us purchased Del Dotto wines for our cellars, so it was fitting I bring a couple of vintage Del Dotto to OTBN. Bill expressed interest in such to see how they are aging, and it was an interesting comparison to the aged Freemark that he brought for the event.

I've written several times in these pages about the Napa Valley 1998 vintage, how it was panned and overshadowed by the much heralded 1997 and 1999 vintages. So it was an interesting and fun comparison to taste this duo.

These are 100% Estate grown from the Rutherford Estate there at Hwy 29 and Zinfandel Lane, the 1997 and '98 Del Dotto Cabernet Sauvignon were blended with some estate grown Cabernet Franc and Merlot.

Del Dotto Napa Cab 1998 - Consistent with earlier tasting notes, this vintage continues to please, even here in its twentieth year! "A sleeper of the vintage, a consistently pleasant, nice drinking wine, belaying and despite its lackluster reviews. Still life left, this was dark garnet colored, medium bodied, still vibrant and lively, nicely balanced, moderately complex black cherry fruits accented by tobacco leaf, leather, tones of tangy spicy oak and modest but pleasant tannins on the finish."

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2016/12/del-dotto-napa-cabernet-1998.html

Del Dotto Napa Cab 1997 - An interesting comparison to the '97, also showing well, as written and consistent with earlier tasting notes:

"My previous tasting notes over the last five years showed this selection coming of age and opening up with more fruit as it matured. This presented big pronounced and lively fruits of currant and berry flavors accented by nicely integrated oak before giving way to hints of cedar, leather and tobacco. Dark garnet colored, moderately firm with refined lingering tannins, this '97 still is vibrant and has several years of pleasurable easy drinking left."

http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2014/03/del-dotto-napa-valley-rutherford.html

For the dessert course Terry prepared Molten Lava Cake and her fabulous signature Mandarin Orange Cake, both served with fresh berries and fresh whipped cream.

With the dessert course, Lyle served Grahams Vintage Port 2000 and a Chateau Broustet Barsac Sauterne 2001.












Friday, January 26, 2018

UGC Bordeaux 2015 Release Tour unveils stellar vintage

UGC Bordeaux 2015 Release Tour unveils stellar vintage

The UGC Bordeaux' (Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB)) annual release tour visited America to showcase their latest vintage release of their wines this week. Following stops in Toronto, Washington DC and Boston, they held their grand tastings at two spectacular elegant settings, Cipriani on 42nd in NYC and the Drake Hotel, Chicago. Once again, our 'Pour Boys' wine group helped host the event in Chicago at the Drake Hotel in the elegant grand ballroom (shown below).  Following the tasting, we attended a gala dinner at remarkable Schwa Restaurant.

Pour Boys, Rick, Lyle, Dan, Ernie
This was the seventh Bordeaux release event that wine buddies Dr Dan, Ernie and Lyle (shown right) accompanied me to assist the team at Balzac Communications to host the event, helping with set up, logistics and then standing in to pour wine for any featured producers that were not able to attend in person. Earlier UGCB and related events are featured in earlier unwindwine blogposts. More than once, winter storms delayed or disrupted travel prohibiting some of the producers to get to Chicago for the event which started our standing in for them, hence we coined the name the 'Pour' Boys.

Cipriani on 42nd, NYC
Close to 100 producers, winemakers and their commercial representatives presented their wines on the tour which was attended by nearly 800 members of the trade and press. Following the trade event in the afternoon, each evening a public tasting was hosted by a leading local wine merchant.

The interest in and enthusiasm for the 2015 was apparent by the attendees as this promises to be the best release since 2010. Several producers compared this vintage to a combination of the best of 2005 and 2010. As the saying goes, 'all boats rise with the tide', a spectacular vintage such as this affects the wines from the high end to the secondary labels. This provides great opportunities for consumers as it promises quality wines at lower price points as well as in the ultra-premium more expensive levels. As with highly rated, highly anticipated vintages, prices are also higher accordingly.

Drake Hotel, Chicago
Following several more modest and a few lackluster vintages, 2015 promises great potential, and 2016 is expected to be even better!

The quality of the vintage shone through with high quality representations from appellations across the region from the left bank to the right bank. Unlike recent years which were more hit and miss, our representative collection of benchmark wines that we collect, all showed exceedingly well. There were a few lackluster labels and disappointments, but they were far fewer in number than recent years.

I found the Margaux, Pauillac and the Sauternes appellations to be especially impressive. Particular highlight standouts from the vintage that impressed me were Canon, Clinet, the Pichons (Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande and Pichon Baron), Lynch Bages, Brane Cantenac, Cantenac Brown, Lascombs, Giscours, and many of the Sauternes including Coutet, Lafaurie Peyraguay, Bastor Lamontagne and Suideraut. The St Juliens, normally one of my favorite appellations seemed generally more moderate and even keeled but lacking expressive standouts.

Some of the standouts were:

The 2015 Chateau Canon was the best in memory and I've collected and held this wine going back to the 1983 vintage. A blend of 72% Merlot and 28% Cabernet Franc this presented a smooth polished structure, an intense bouquet with bright vibrant pure fruits black berry and raspberry fruits accented by notes of floral and mineral.

The 2015 Brane-Cantenac was as good as any I remember, a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 1% Carmenère, presented blackberry fruits, hints of raspberry and tones of tobacco leaf and hints of cedar.

The 2015 Clinet. a blend of 90% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Cabernet Franc, was smooth, elegant and polished, presenting perfumed bouquet turning to black fruit, notes of menthol, creosote with silky smooth soft tannins.

With Chateau Canon
The 2015 Clos Fourtet, a blend of 90% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Cabernet Franc presented full, bright floral bouquet with notes highlighting the black fruits turning to tones of cassis, dark mocha and menthol mint with a pure elegant polished structure.

The 2015 Suduiraut was intense, thick, unctuous with apricot nectar and notes of honey on a tongue puckering finish.

The 2015 Domaine de Chevalier,, a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot was also the best in memory since I first discovered this label in 1994, presenting a full bouquet smooth blackberry fruit and hints of pepper.

Margaux Reeder, Bastor-Lamontagne
The 2015 Giscours is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot showing bright vibrant black currant and black cherry fruits turning to notes of spice, menthol, cedar and smooth silky tannins on the lingering finish.

The 2015 Pichon-Longueville Baron was complex concentrated with a firm structured backbone but was polished and smooth with hints of menthol, mint and firm but approachable tannins.

The 2015 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande was as good as any I can remember, complex, firmly structured but a symphony of smooth polished well integrated flavors with the black fruits accented with refined notes of graphite, tobacco, leather and silky smooth tannins on the lingering finish.


Ryan and Rick w/ Pichon Baron
 The public tastings and host merchants were:
  • Thu. 18 January Toronto - LCBO
    Washington - Calvert Woodley
  • Fri. 19 January St John's - NLC (2013 & 2014 vintage)
    Boston - Gordon's Wines
  • Sat. 20 January Montréal - SAQ
  • Mon. 22 January New-York - Sotheby's
  • Tue. 23 January Chicago - Binny's
  • Wed. 24 January Denver - Applejack
  • Thu. 25 January San Francisco - K&L
  • Fri. 26 January Los Angeles - Wally's
     
Lois Vallette with special engraved
bottle packaging of Lafaurie-Peyraguay








 http://www.cipriani.com/events/?loc=ny-42nd-street