Friday, December 8, 2023

Pour Boys Holiday Wine Dinner 2023

Pour Boys Holiday Wine Dinner 2023

Dr Dan and Linda hosted Lyle and Terry and Linda and me for a 'Pour Boys' wine group holiday dinner. They prepared Veal Marsala as the main entree dish with mashed potatoes, brussel sprouts, mixed green salad and roasted red pepper soup.

 
Before dinner they served a medley of artisan cheeses and charcuterie. 

Dan pulled from his cellar a horizontal selection of 2011 vintage vineyard designated Aussie Shiraz' from producer Clarendon Hills. 

What a treat to taste three different designated vineyard selections from the same vintage - thereby called a 'horizontal' collection. 

Clarendon Hills produced these different vineyard specific Shiraz's in 2011 - Bakers Gully, Moritz and Liandra vineyards. Dan was able to obtain this collection at auction for this special tasting. 

Clarendon Hills is a small family run winery based in Clarendon, South Australia, founded by biochemist Roman Bratasiuk in 1990, the self-taught winemaking proprietor. Considered somewhat of a maverick within the Australian industry, Roman changed the landscape of Australian fine wine. Roman’s prophetic vision was to introduce the single vineyard concept to Australian wine. 

Roman purchased a 160ha property high in the hill country of Clarendon at an altitude close to that of the Adelaide Hills. Here he established a vineyard with single-stake trellising similar to that used on the steep slopes of Germany and Austria; it produces the Domaine Clarendon Syrah. Sons Adam and Alex have joined their father in the business – Adam in the winery, Alex managing the future direction of Clarendon Hills. -JAMES HALLIDAY

Roman pioneered the Australian Grenache category with the release of Australia’s first single vineyard, 100% Grenache: the 1991 Clarendon Hills Blewitt Springs Grenache, then extended that approach to Shiraz. 

He also developed what became his flagship ultra-premium label, one of Australia’s greatest single vineyards with his Astralis Syrah vineyard in Blewitt Springs. Over the following 3 decades Roman and Clarendon Hills developed a world-wide, first-class reputation highlighting remarkable old vine Grenache, Syrah and Cabernet vineyards from the Blewitt Springs and Clarendon sub districts.

The McLaren Vale terroir with close proximity to the Great Southern Ocean and St Vincent Gulf, in combination with old mature vines produce wines that typify the region with freshness and bright natural acidity derived from the marine climate.

Clarendon Hills Syrah’s are considered among the very best in Australia from arguably Australia’s greatest single vineyard Syrah, Astralis, Clarendon Hills has added a number of individual, exceptional, single vineyard old vine expressions to the portfolio.

Roman adopted a ‘Burgundian’ approach to branding producing 19 single vineyard designated wines, reflecting an internal hierarchy seen in the old-world with their Village wine, Premier-Cru and Grand-Cru classifications. 

"Roman Bratasiuk is one of planet earth's greatest winemakers" - Robert Parker Jr, Wine Advocate 5 Star Winery - Halliday Wine Companion

Clarendon Hills Bakers Gully Syrah 2011

This release got 92 points by Halliday Wine Companion and 90+ by Wine Advocate.

Aggregate of Cellartracker scores of 89.8

Dark ink color in the glass. Smooth with well integrated tannins. Hint of black pepper. Really good qpr - better value than the Liandra and actually enjoyed it better

 https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1953002

Clarendon Hills Liandra Vineyard Syrah 2011

The Clarendon Hills Liandra Syrah site is located in the Blewitt Springs sub-region of McLaren Vale, a sandy section of the famous Blewitt Springs sands.

Aggregate of ten Cellartracker scores of 88

CT'er - Deep, dark and full bodied. Subdued fruit. Hints of black pepper and solid tannins. Good.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1953013

Clarendon Hills Moritz Vineyard Syrah 2011

Winemaker's Notes - The Moritz vineyard was planted in 1975 in a fine sandy soil with pebbled ironstone top soil. Located in the lowest elevated sub-district Kangarilla it is dry-grown and trellised. The Syrah vines are encouraged to yield approximately 2 tonne per acre or 34 hectolitres per hectare. Consistent vineyard characters include coffee, blue berry and black olive like vibrance in the primary fruit spectrum. Moritz displays balance and intensity. Bitter chocolate and coffee flavors mingle with the earthy meatiness and combine to provide a supple experience. 

Aggregate of ten Cellartracker scores of 90.3

Initial nose was acidic and dark red fruit. Wild herbs, a little mint, later after some decanting there was cola. Very intense taste of tart berries. A little pepper in the middle. nice tannins at the front long tart finish. Intensely fruity without being sweet. Savory notes appear after on the pallette after about 1 hour in the decanter  Excellent.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1955271

https://clarendonhills.com.au/

 To pair and compare with the horizontal flight I brought another vineyard designated label Napa Valley Shiraz from Venge Vineyards, one of our favorite producers, from the 2010 vintage.

Lyle brought from his cellar another 2010 vintage release of Sonoma County Bordeaux Blend, Cinq Cépages from Château St. Jean. We've visited the Chateau estate winery on several occasions over the years including during our Napa/Sonoma Wine Experience 2017.

With the starter courses Dan served Sea Smoke Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay 2014.

I mentioned that during our recent week retreat to our Florida vacation rental home, I read a couple books, including most notably, "A Perfect Score" by producer Kathleen Hall of Hall Vineyards. We obtained signed copies of this book at the Producer release tour tasting in Chicago with Dan & Linda. 

To commemorate that memorable evening, and the festive holiday, Dan graciously pulled from his cellar a bottle of Hall flagship Excellenz, also from the 2014 vintage. We tasted and acquired this wine during our visit to the producer during our Napa Wine Experience in 2017. 

I mentioned that we tasted the 2013 vintage release of this wine at our family Christmas celebration last year and I noted that that wine was on par with and notably perhaps the best bottle of California or Napa Valley wine I ever experienced. I featured that bottle in this blogpost at the time.

Exzellenz and aged Robert Craig Mt Veeder for holiday celebration gathering

The kids and grandkids assembled at our house following the annual ritualistic Santa's breakfast at our local Seven Bridges Golf Club.

For such a festive family gathering, the boys went down to the cellar and pulled two memorable, notable bottles, Hall's flagship ultra-premium Exzellenz Napa Cabernet, from the grandkids birthyear 2015 vintage, and the historic inaugural vintage release of Robert Craig Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon, 1993.

Hall Exzellenz Rutherford Sacrashe Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

We discovered, tasted and acquired this label at the magnificent Rutherford Estate Winery during our Napa Wine Experience in 2017. This is sourced from the Sacrashe Vineyard that lies just above the winery adjacent to the estate residence. We hold and have had some of the earlier single vineyard designated wines from this vineyard dating back to 1998. Who knew this would evolve and progress to such heights? Not often does one get to taste a 'perfect' wine. of course perfection is in the eyes ('eyze') of the beholder. The 2013 vintage of this label that we tasted that day in their magnificent tasting room in the cave at the Rutherford Sacrashe estate (shown below) got 100 points from  Robert Parker.

Parker wrote of this wine; "This hails from the foothills of Rutherford and refers to Kathryn Hall’s ambassadorship to Austria between 1997 and 2001. A prodigious wine with beautiful floral notes intermingled with blueberry, blackberry, black raspberry and graphite, the wine hits the palate with a full-bodied force, but nothing seems pushed, cloying or out of sync. Gorgeously pure blue and black fruits cascade over the palate, a full-bodied presentation with remarkable purity and complexity. The finish is a good 45-50 seconds, and while there is significant tannin, the extravagance of the fruit and glycerin generally conceal it. This is a remarkable, one-of-a-kind, world class Cabernet Sauvignon that should prove compelling for at least another 30-40+ years."

Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate. 100 Points.

Sacrashe Vineyard at Hall Rutherford Estate

What a treat, and what better way to enjoy such a spectacular cellar selection than with family - especially my two sons who are becoming oenphiles in their own right, like me! 

Hall Exzellenz Rutherford Sacrashe Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

As explained on the rear label, shown below, the name Exzellenz is German for Ambassador, in commemoration of Kathyn Hall's service as US Ambassador to Austria from 1997 to 2001. 

The bricks in in the magnificent tasting room in the cave at the Rutherford Sacrashe estate (shown right and above) and featured in a separate blogpost at this link)  are recovered and repurposed from a former royal castle in Austria.  

This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from the Sacrashe Vineyard (shown above) at the Hall Rutherford Estate on the lower slopes of the Vaca Range overlooking Rutherford, Napa Valley. 

While this release didn't get 100 points, it came as close as possible, 99 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 97 points from Owen Bargreen of owenbargreen.com, and 93 points by Wine Enthusiast.

Parker wrote about this wine: "Composed of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and sporting a very deep purple-black color, the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Exzellenz unfurls slowly, tantalizingly out of the glass to reveal powerful, intense scents of crème de cassis, Black Forest cake, blueberry compote and preserved plums with an undercurrent of Chinese five spice, molten chocolate, licorice and Marmite toast with wafts of garrigue and camphor. Very rich, full-bodied and concentrated on the palate, it coats the mouth with black and blue fruit preserves plus tons of spice and savory accents, held together by a rock-solid, grainy frame and finishing with epic persistence."

Spectacular! Delicious! Enchanting! Deep dark garnet colored, full bodied, rich, concentrated, round, rich, complex but elegant and seductive smooth blackberry and black currant fruits accented by savory clove/cinnamon spices, tones of crème de cassis, mocha chocolate, tobacco leaf and black tea, with a tongue coating dusty gripping but silky smooth tannin laced lingering finish. 

RM 97 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2508301

So tonight, we tasted the 2014 vintage release of this ultra-premium label.  

 Hall "Exzellenz" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

This release was awarded a monumental 99 points by Jeb Dunnuck, and 95 points by Wine Advocate.

Deep dark garnet/purple colored,  full-bodied, firmly structured and muscular yet nicely balanced, smooth and polished, rich round blackberry and plum fruits, Wine Advocate cites 'mulberries, smoked meat. Indian spices and tree bark', hints of Crème de cassis, toasty oak and graphite on a long firm chewy tannin laced finish.

RM 95 points. 

https://twitter.com/HALLWines

@HALLWines

Hall Rutherford Winery Estate Appellation Tasting

Our visit to the Hall Rutherford Estate was one of the highlights of our Napa Sonoma Wine Experience 2017.

We wrote in earlier visit blogposts about the spectacular Hall Rutherford estate and cave tours at the Rutherford estate sitting in the Sacrashe Vineyard, with hospitality rooms above the wine production area, barrel caves and tasting room below.

The magnificent caves are sculpted into the mountain with bricks brought from an Austrian castle and features alcoves that create a galley of sculpture art.

The magnificent tasting room (shown left) at the end of the barrel cave features a large table for thirty guests underneath a massive chandelier fashioned from a thousand year old grape vine.

Hall Exzellenz Rutherford Sacrashe Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

This is sourced from the Sacrashe Vineyard that lies just above the winery adjacent to the estate residence. We hold some of the earlier single vineyard designated wines from this vineyard dating back to 1998. Who knew this would evolve and progress to such heights? Not often does one get to taste a 'perfect' wine. of course perfection is in the eyes ('eyze') of the beholder. This wine got 100 points from Robert Parker.

Parker wrote of this wine; "This hails from the foothills of Rutherford and refers to Kathryn Hall’s ambassadorship to Austria between 1997 and 2001. A prodigious wine with beautiful floral notes intermingled with blueberry, blackberry, black raspberry and graphite, the wine hits the palate with a full-bodied force, but nothing seems pushed, cloying or out of sync. Gorgeously pure blue and black fruits cascade over the palate, a full-bodied presentation with remarkable purity and complexity. The finish is a good 45-50 seconds, and while there is significant tannin, the extravagance of the fruit and glycerin generally conceal it. This is a remarkable, one-of-a-kind, world class Cabernet Sauvignon that should prove compelling for at least another 30-40+ years."

Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate. 100 Points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1873772

Exzellence 2014 ...

From a tasting 11/14/2020 - I wrote: 

WOTN - Wine of the Night - Deep garnet-purple color, full-bodied, firmly structured yet perfectly balanced and silky smooth, elegant and polished, full concentrated black berry fruits with notes of crème de cassis, graphite, hints of cigar box and what Robert Parker described as tree bark turning to a long sinewy spicy oak laced finish. 

RM 96 Points.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/11/fabulous-premium-wine-flight-for.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2508295


Château St. Jean "Cinq Cépages" Sonoma County Bordeaux Blend 2010

The Exzellenc compared nicely with the Cinq Cépages that Lyle brought from his cellar. 

We featured our visit to the Chateau during our Napa Sonoma Wine Experience in 2017 in this blogpost Chateau St Jean Sonoma Reserve Private Tasting.

We had this release with Lyle and Terry when he rbrought it BYOB to a local Trattoria in their West Loop neighborhood for a festive holiday dinner as featured in this blogpost Cinq Cépages BYOB at Mart Anthony Chicago.

At that time, I wrote, "This 2010 vintage may be the best Cinq Cépages I have had - bigger, fuller and more concentrated than any I remember. This was immediately apparent when we opened and poured the dark inky purple thick full bodied juice into the glass while the room filled with bright floral and berry fruit aromatics." 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2017/12/robert-craig-veeder-cinq-cepages-byob.html

We hold a dozen vintages of this label dating back to the 1994 vintage, one of our favorites from this producer. This is a classic label, Cinq Cepages referring to the five flavors derived from the five designated Bordeaux varietals included in the blend - Cabernet Sauvignon (78%), Merlot (12%), Cabernet Franc (5%), Petit Verdot and Malbec. 

This label gained notoriety when the 1996 Cinq Cépages was named the #1 Wine of the Year in Wine Spectator's Top 100 list, and later the 1999 vintage went on to be named number two.

Winemaker's notes: "The 2010 Cinq Cépages is a stunning color in the glass, deep ruby with a subtle violet colored rim. Layered aromas are vivid; black plum, blackberry compote, clove spice, tanned leather and a hint of fresh tobacco leaf. Secondary aromas of raspberry and spiced cherry mingle with notes of violet and pomegranate. The aromas lead to an incredibly juicy palate with flavors of blueberry, cherry and blackberry. Nuanced flavors of espresso and a distinct mocha component add to the complexity. The full-bodied wine has smooth, silky tannins that offer solid structure but do not overwhelm. The wine is plush and approachable yet complex and appealing in the glass. In signature Cinq Cépages form, this wine combines the strength of the diverse Sonoma County region to create a well-balanced, complex and powerful wine."

This vintage release was awarded 93 points by Wine Spectator, and 92 points by Wine Advocate and Vinous. 

Dark garnet purple colored, medium to full-bodied, firm, dense structured blackberry, black cherry and plum fruits with notes of spice, earthy, smokey cedar, cigar box and black olive with smooth moderate polished tannins on the finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1710008

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2017/12/robert-craig-veeder-cinq-cepages-byob.html

For pairing with Dan's Clarendon Hills Shiraz', I brought this Napa Valley label. 

Venge Vineyards "Stagecoach Vineyard - Block I-4" Napa Valley Syrah 2010

Venge are one of our favorite Napa Valley producers that we've been enjoying since the 1980's. We've had dozens of vintages and many labels from this producer which we've visited in Napa Valley several times, and this the first Venge Syrah we've ever had. We obtained this limited production single vineyard desigated release at auction recently and we were eager to try it. We recently obtained a mixed case of four vintages of this label and tonight we brought this, the oldest vintage release.

This relessae was awarded 94 points by Wine Enthusiast and 91 points by Wine Spectator.

Wine Enthusiast noted, "With this wine, Venge has taken a giant leap into the front ranks of California Syrah producers". 

This is sourced from the legendary Stagecoach Vineyard, which sits high up on Atlas Peak in the Vaca Range that forms the eastern boundary wall of Napa Valley. 

This wine was aged in 60% new French oak. 

Dark inky purple colored, medium full bodied, with dense extracted briary blackberry fruits accented by a layer of licorie and spice with notes of herbs and tobacco leaf with chewy chunky tannins on the full finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1873772

 After dinner with the dessert and chocolates we had this aged Sauterne dessert wine that we brought from our cellar. 

Château La Tour Blanche Sauternes Bordeaux 1998

We enjoy tasting this wine at the UGCB Release Tour tastings each year. 

Some UGCB reports: 

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux Chicago - Bordeaux Producers 2010 Release Tasting Chicago

UGC Bordeaux 2013 Release Tour Chicago 2016 - UGC Bordeaux 2013 Release Tour Chicago 2016

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux Chicago 2015 - Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGC) 2012 Vintage Release Tasting Chicago

Considered as one of the first Grand Cru Classé of Sauternes, Château La Tour Blanche from the estate of the same name is known for classic Bordeaux viticulture.

Founded in the 17th century by Monsieur de Latour Blanche, the Château la Tour Blanche estate produces all kinds of wines. The first owner was a squire, adviser to the Parliament of Bordeaux. In 1855, this wine was recognized as Premier Grand Cru Classé of Sauternes during the World Fair. The estate was bought in 1876 by Daniel Iffla.

Château La Tour Blanche is unique among the classed growths in Sauternes. It is owned by the state and is home to the La Tour Blanche School of Viticulture and Oenology. The First Growth's benevolent status was down to the generosity of its owner, Daniel Iffla, who went by the name Osiris, and was a powerful financier and philanthropist whose only stipulation with La Tour Blanche was the founding of a wine school. 

In 1907, the latter bequeathed it to the French state after his death and to this day, the entire estate is owned by the Ministry of Agriculture. In order to respect the wishes of the deceased owner, a school of wine making and viticulture was established in 1911, built on the estate to accommodate the children of the region. Today, the viticultural high school of the Château de La Tour Blanche trains many technicians and vineyard enthusiasts.

The estate covers an area of 70 hectares, a large part, 44 are covered in vineyards composed of Sémillon, Sauvignon and Muscadelle. The estate is composed of gravelly soil favorable to surface drainage. This arrangement eliminates much more moisture at the foot of the vines, thus contributing to the improvement of the production. 

The establishment produces primarily sweet wines, classified under the name “Sauternes“, a designation of controlled origin in the appellation Sauternais, one of the many subdivisions of the Bordeaux region. A dry white is also made along with an extremely rare red wine made composed from Merlot.

As is custom in Sauterne, this is a Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc Blend - Semillon (~77%), Sauvignon Blanc (~20%), and Muscadelle (~3%).

It was awarded 93 points by Wine Advocate and 91 points by Wine Spectator and two others.

Winemaker notes - The colour is straw yellow. The nose reveals loads of fresh fruits, such as apricot or peach, but also beeswax and cinnamon. In mouth the attack is very supple with much fullness and roundness. Great aromatic complexity dominated by candied fruits is present. The final is spicy, developing to honeysweetened savours.

Vintage characteristics: The year 1998 was marked by difficult weather conditions. Indeed, after a very dry end of winter, the wet weather in April delayed the vegetation (174 millimetres and 22 days of rain). The period from May until the end of August was again character- ised by extreme dry conditions. Then September was very similar to April with 94 milli- metres and 17 days of rain. So maturity and overmaturation were disturbed, and the grape harvest began only on September 28. Sanitary sorting involved a little loss, but thereafter everything went well thanks to a nice month of October, which made it possible to obtain very high concentrations.

Number of bottles produced: 39,000

Deep golden color. This is nicely balanced, mid-weight and fresh, with notes of saffron, apricot jam, some sweet spices, honey, caramel, some smokey botrytis notes, some flowery notes too and figs. It‘s medium+ bodied, with medium acidity and just beautiful overall balance of sweetness and acidity. Pretty long finish. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=75950

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