Lede To Kalon and Greywacke showcase 4th of July Celebration

Cliff  Lede To Kalon and Greywacke highlight 4th of July Celebration

Son Ryan hosted family and friends for a gala 4th of July celebration in what is becoming somewhat of an annual tradition. He pulled from his cellar some favorites, new discoveries and classics to accompany the BBQ feast. 

 

The kids/siblings .... 

It was also a dual celebration of grand-daughter Marleigh's birthday. 

 

 

 

Birthday girl face-paint.

 

First Fourth for newest grand-child/cousin Lilac.

 

Ryan and Michelle served BBQ, beef brisket, corn on the cob, mac-n-cheese and assorted salads,

Linda prepared a special 4th of July dessert, 'cherry bombs'.

And friends and neighbors brought assorted cheese and charcuterie plates, desserts and accompaniments. 

 

 

Entertainment consisted of a giant bounce house, serious competitive 'bags' ...

 

 

 

 

 

... and of course the traditional festive 4th of July fireworks. 

The wine flight included Sauvignon Blanc, a Bordeaux white blend, Rose, and a selection of Reds. 

 Greywacke Marlborough New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc 2022

A standout and one of Ryan's favorites for this category, this is from the Marlborough region in New Zealand, Greywacke (pronounced “grey-wacky”), named for New Zealand’s bedrock. where there is an abundance of these so-named river stones in the soil.

Producer/winemaker  Kevin Judd has contributed to and benefited from the expanding global popularity of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Unveiled in 2009, Greywacke was originally launched as the name of the Judds’ first vineyard in Rapaura. Living in the Omaka Valley overlooking Marlborough’s vineyards, Kevin sources fruit from vineyards in the central Wairau Plains and the Southern Valleys.

Marlborough is the leading region producing New Zealand's distinctive style of Sauvignon blanc, it's  unique terroir produce high quality grapes comprising 90% of New Zealand's Sauvignon Blanc production. Situated at the northern tip of New Zealand’s South Island, the vineyards of Marlborough benefit from well-draining, stony soils, a dry, sunny climate and wide temperature fluctuations between day and night, a phenomenon that supports a perfect balance between berry ripeness and acidity.

The region’s primary variety is Sauvignon Blanc but also produces fruit-forward Pinot Noirs (especially where soils are clay-rich), elegant Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer.

Winemaker Notes - Aromas of cassis and passionfruit are first to emerge, with guava, crisp pear and white peach adding a delicious intricacy. On the palate, it is generous yet refreshing, with ripe pineapple and a lime sherbet zing, layered with elderflower and hints of citrus blossom. A classic example of Greywacke’s interpretation of the famous Marlborough style - ripe, textural and scruptious, with the volume turned well down.

This was awarded 95 points by Wine Spectator and 90 points by Vinous. 

Straw colored, light-medium bodied, complex, rich, smooth, nicely balanced acidity, notes of lemon, pineapple, passionfruit, mango and stone fruit flavors with hints of spice and florals, with lingering long, expressive finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4512936

Château Latour-Martillac Blanc Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend 2019

This Bordeaux Blanc Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend is from Pessac-Léognan on the Left Bank, recognized for its superior reds as well as whites, Pessac-Léognan claims classified growths for both—making it quite unique in comparison to its neighboring Médoc properties. This is in the  little town of Martillac, just to the south-east of Léognan on the fringe of the city of regional anchor and namesake Bordeaux.

The Château Latour-Martillac estate takes its name from the tower which stands in the main courtyard of the château; the remnant of a fort built in the 12th century by the ancestors of Montesquieu. The structure occupied a strategic position and controlled the route between Bordeaux and Toulouse. Stones of the fort were used to build the existing château at the end of the 18th century.

In 1871, the estate was promoted by Bordeaux wine merchant Edouard Kressmann, attracted by the quality of the white wines grown on a remarkable gravelly hilltop with marked relief and outstanding exposure. Edouard's eldest son Alfred Kressmann, acquired the property in 1930 and changed the name to avoid confusion with the famous first growth namesake of the Medoc thereby Chateau Latour became Chateau LaTour-Martillac. 

Alfred Kressmann embarked on a long period of reconstruction, adding Cabernet Sauvignon to the Merlot already in place in the 30 acre vineyard which was planted primarily in white wine grapes, without touching the oldest plots. 

At the beginning of the 1930’s, Alfred Kressmann and his son Jean redesigned the label for their new vintage, inspired by the Art Deco movement which was very in vogue at that time. Their design with the gold and sandy stripes adorns the bottles to this day.

The wines of Château LaTour-Martillac gained widespread attention - the 1934 red vintage was selected by the "Wine and Spirit Benevolent Society" of London for the celebration of the coronation of His Majesty King George the VI, King of England in December 1936.

Jean achieved the family dream by acquiring the gravel slope vineyard which separated the property from the village, thereby extending the plantings to nearly 75 acres.

Today, the domain and is owned and managed by the six children of Jean Kressmann. - Tristan and Loïc, the two younger sons, manage the estate with the assistance of the best wine consultants in Bordeaux. Since the 1980’s, they have increased the area planted in Sauvignon Blanc to compliment the Semillon, the historical grape variety of the property. With one of the best gravel plots of the plateau of Martillac they produce the some of the best white wines from the Graves region. 

The Classified Growths of the Graves, long sought by the Winemakers Syndicate of the Graves, was established when the classification of Grave wines finally took place in 1953 under the authority of the National Institute of Designation of Origin. The classification recognised 16 châteaux, all in the north of the Graves region. Château LaTour-Martillac is one of only six properties classified for both red and white wines.

On the Martillac plateau, the hill dominates the property and is made up of a patchwork of gravel. These little pebbles deposited there by the river Garonne in the Quaternary period form a finely tuned mix of Quartz, Lydian, Jasper and Flint. These poor soils and drainage constitute an ideal terrain for the vine and in particular for the red grape varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Moving closer to the Garonne, the soils take on a different profile of clay and limestone, still with a gravel surface.
It is here that the Merlot variety grows best and also our white grape varieties of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. 

In 2020, a new red wine cellar was constructed with a new vat room equipped with environmentally efficient stainless steel tanks.

Château Latour-Martillac has an extensive hospitality program offering a wide range of tastings and tours at the estate.

Winemaker notes: "The 2019 Latour-Martillac is pale yellow color with sparkling highlights and has complex aromas of both floral (verbena, honeysuckle) and some exotic fruits (passion fruit) and lemon. The palate is beautifully fresh and is balanced by a delicious creaminess. In the mouth, there is elegance with the same complex, fruity aromas of white peach and ripe apricots as well as the floral note of verbena and fresh mint."

The 2019 Latour-Martillac Blanc is 58% Sauvignon Blanc og 42% Sémillon.

It was widely reviewed, awarded 95 points by Jeb Dunnuck, 94 by Wine Enthusiast, 93 by Wine Advocate and Vinous, and 92 points by Wine Spectator and Wine Cellar Insider, and 91 by Decanter.

Straw colored, medium full bodied, rich concentrated, sprites of grapefruit, lemon citrus, hints of  yellow apples and peaches with notes of what Wine Advocate calls "baking bread, almonds and spice cake".

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3661034

https://www.latourmartillac.com/

Mollydooker Blue Eye'd Boy McLaren Vale Shiraz 2018

This has become one of our family favorites, signature tribute wine to Son Alec (our blue eye'd boy). We whimsically open this as one of our favorite labels, a signature label for son Alec, Blue Eye'd Boy Syrah from Mollydooker, at family occasions.

This is one of several labels from this prolific producer that we collect. Producer Mollydooker offer a brand and portfolio of whimsical labels, each featuring a cartoonish character on the label. Even the brand name, Mollydooker, which is Australian lingo for a left-handed person, is a comical play on words, named for the two left handed owner/producers/founders Sarah and Sparky Marquis.  I chronicled Mollydooker brand and portfolio in a recent blogpost. 

As I wrote in that blogpost, the Mollydooker "Family Series" labels features photos of  Sara Marquis' two children. The 'Blue Eyed Boy' label shows Sarah’s son Luke, shown stomping grapes as a kid, who now heads up the Mollydooker Sales Team.

We love this full-throttle shiraz and collect it as part of our Mollydooker portfolio and as part of our Alec collection of labels we keep on hand to toast son Alec. We served an earlier vintage release of this wine at a graduation celebration for Alec back in his college apartment.

This is sourced from several select Vineyards in the McLaren Vale region:Coppermine Road, Gateway, Long Gully Road & Mollydooker Home, Langhorne Creek and Joppich. McLaren Vale might be one of the smaller South Australian wine regions, but it packs a big punch. Nestled between the city of Adelaide, the Sellicks Hill mountain range and the Gulf of St. Vincent, McLaren Vale is the source of some of Australia’s most intensely-flavored red wines and similarly powerful white wines.

With a mix of stony bluffs and undulating plains, dry valley winds and balmy sea breezes, the McLaren Vale region offers a wide range of soils and microclimates. Accordingly, local winemakers have found a variety of grapes that flourish there: Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, with Shiraz covering fully half of the region. Alternative grape varieties from Spain and Italy are increasingly in the McLaren Vale mix, too.

Early in the country’s history, McLaren Vale was the premier Australian wine region. English settler John Reynell was the first to plant grapes there – in fact, the first in all of South Australia – in 1838. Other winemakers whose names echo in the present-day industry, including Thomas Hardy and Rawson Penfold, followed soon after. Old vines thrive in McLaren Vale, with some more than 100 years old still producing high-quality wines.

Winemaker Notes for this label release - "The delicious berry fruit and spice flavors of the cooler climate wine from the Joppich Vineyard in Langhorne Creek gives the Blue Eyed Boy its crowd appeal. We blend it with McLaren Vale Shiraz to add intensity, vibrancy and richness. This Shiraz is bursting with generous with amounts of fresh plum and blueberry, accompanied by spice and licorice all sorts. Supple texture and a creamy finish features layers of biscuit cream and espresso coffee. A well weighted wine with a truly elegant finish."

"The colour and fragrance of plum provide an alluring first glance, with gentle notes of strawberry and mocha filling the aroma. Expressive, rich fruit adds elements of blueberries and molten chocolate, while subtle tannins create a silky mouthfeel. The great intensity and complexity of our 2018 Blue Eyed Boy is no exception to its past."

This was awarded 93 points by Wine Advocate and 92 points by Wine Spectator.

It was barrel fermented and matured in 100% American oak; 58% new; 42% one year old.

Dark inky purple colored, full bodied, concentrated and intense, dense, rich blackberry and black cherry fruits with notes of dark-chocolate, vanilla, tobacco, spicy clove and hints of pepper notes with a long, tongue coating finish.

 

RM 92 points.

 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3429784

https://mollydookerwines.com.au/

Cliff Lede "Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard" Oakville Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

 Napa Valley To Kalon Beckstoffer Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

This is the ultra-premium label of the evening, one of the flagship top labels of the Cliff Lede portfolio. This was also a bit of a paradox, we probably opened too soon, this needs several more years of bottle age to settle, integrate, and come together. Indeed, Jeb Dunnuck said "this is another magical wine from this estate that will evolve for 20-25 years if stored correctly." Decanter says, "The wine has the structure for long ageing. Only time in the cellar will tell if it nicely sheds its baby fat and becomes something wholly intriguing."

This is a single vineyard designated label sourced from the legendary Napa Valley To Kalon Beckstoffer Vineyard, home to some of the premiere labels from Napa Valley top producers. As the rear label indicates, this is sourced from the Beckstoffer family's portion of the revered H.W. Crabb vineyard that dates back to the original Hermosa Vineyard developed in 1868, often considered one of Napa Valley's 'first growth' vineyards.

The Lede website says this of To Kalon Beckstoffer: "Situated on the western Oakville bench, the celebrated Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard has gravelly loam soils with high mineral content derived from sedimentary deposits of the volcanic Mayacamas Mountains and the alluvial fan of the Napa River. The vineyard has low organic matter content and thorough drainage, which devigorates the vines and produces small berries that are ideal for wines with intense concentration. The site is warm and sunny throughout the day, but cooled by late afternoon breezes, producing ripe Cabernet Sauvignon with lovely acidity. The blocks that make up our blend represent a diverse array of the Beckstoffer To Kalon terroir and clonal selection, creating a unique and extraordinary wine from this critically praised site." 

The 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, a blend of three clones off this historic ranch.

 This wine underwent twenty-one months of élevage in French oak barrels, 78% of which were new.

Winemaker notes - The deep dark ruby colored 2019 Beckstoffer To Kalon boasts a brooding perfume of sultry violets, wild blackberry, and black figs. Red currant, black cherry, and mulberry preserve flavors dominate the entry tinged with cool menthol and bay laurel notes.

This label release was awarded a near perfect 99 points by Jeb Dunnuck, sequentially, 98 points by Wine Advocate, 97 points by Decanter, 96 points Vinous, and 95 points by James Suckling, and 93 points by Wine Spectator. The broad range of reviews is testament to the points its all in the eye's of the beholder.

We found this a bit awkward, slightly obtuse, with some green notes that burned off after a half hour, but this definitely needs some time to settle and integrate with some more bottle aging.

Decanter says "The wine has the structure for long ageing. Only time in the cellar will tell if it nicely sheds its baby fat and becomes something wholly intriguing."

It was dark garnet colored with inky purple hues, medium full bodied, intense, concentrated forward blackberry,  mulberry and ripe plum fruits with tones of cassis, herbs, earthy leather and tobacco with hints of cinnamon spice, menthol and cedar turning to fine grained tannins on a long lingering finish. 

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4235934

https://cliffledevineyards.com/

https://cliffledevineyards.com/wines/2019-cliff-lede-cabernet-sauvignon-beckstoffer-to-kalon/

Gala Holiday Family Dinner - BBQ and Fine Wines

 Gala Holiday Family Dinner - BBQ and some extraordinary Fine Wines

The family gathered at son Ryan's for a gala 4th of July holiday celebration featuring BBQ, a selection of craft beers and fine wines and holiday fireworks. Son Ryan carefully selected and smoked and grilled four racks of ribs. We brought four side dishes from Sharko's BBQ - baked beans, cole slaw, creamed spinach and mac and cheese. 

For pairing with the BBQ we assembled a flight of spectacular wines: I brought a special birthyear vintage bottle of Penfolds Grange Aussie Shiraz,  Ryan opened from his cellar a Guigal Côte-Rôtie and Alec brought a Château Pape Clément Bordeaux. 

Prior to dinner we had a selection of chips and dips. I brought a bottle of Rose' that Ryan, Linda and I discovered and acquired at the producer during our visit to the Long Shadows Cellars hospitaly center and tasting room in Woodinville. I also brought a special bottle of birthyear vintage Charles Heidseick vintage champagne.

Ryan prepared incredible BBQ ribs with hand crafted rub, smoked for six hours in home trimmed applewood, then grilled. 

 Erin prepared a festive artfully decorated American Flag cheesecake with blueberries and red raspberries and strawberries. 

 With the appetizers, snacks and cheesecake we opened a celebratory Charles Heidseick 1990 birthyear vintage champagne and a Rose'.

 To celebrate the holiday, Sean put on a fireworks display for the kids. 

Long Shadows Wineries Julia's Dazzle Pinot Gris Columbia Valley Rosé 2017

We discovered, tasted and acquired this wine while visiting the Long Shadows Cellars hospitaly center and tasting room in Woodinville, WA during our  Seattle Culinary and Washington Wine Tour. 

We normally don't drink Pinot Gris or Rose' wines but were captivated by this and found it a unique label for our cellar, perfect for as occasion such as today, especially since Ryan was with us when we discovered this label. 

This is from the Long Shadows collection from vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills appellation of the Columbia River Valley in Central Washington State. 

This is produced and bottled independent of Long Shadows, owner producer Allen Shoup tasked  winemaker Gilles Nicault to craft a dry rosé to share with family and friends. This result, "Dazzle" was an instant hit. The wine quickly affirmed Shoup’s long-held belief that Americans would one day develop an affinity for this food-friendly wine, particularly perfect on a warm summer afternoon.

Gilles set aside a special block of Pinot Grigio and gave it extended time on the vine to develop a bright tint through slow fermentation, then added 2% Sangiovese to the blend for color. Named after Allen’s granddaughter, Julia's Dazzle is light pink in color and offers aromas of strawberry and orange peel. It is a dry style but with sweet fruit flavors and clean sharp acidity creating a light and refreshing finish.

Winemaker's notes: "Fresh and lively with bright aromas and flavors of ripe strawberries and melon complemented by a racy acidity that lingers across a clean, dry finish." 

Charles Heidsieck Brut Millésimé Champagne 1990

Sharing and enjoying this bottle recently, and again tonight with son Alec and the rest of the family, was especially memorable as he was with us when we visited the Champagne wine region in northeast France back in 2006.

This vintage release was awarded 97 points from Wine Spectator and 94 points from Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar. 

As written in the recent tasting blogpost, this was a delightful surprise showing and drinking well, meeting all my expectations for this bottle. I was a bit concerned when upon opening and releasing the cork under pressure, the seeming pressure and resulting 'pop' were less than expected. Never-the-less, as hoped, the foil, cork, label, fill level and resulting wine were all ideal, showing little sign of diminution from aging. 

Amazing, impressive with life still left in this 31 year old vintage Champagne. 

The color was dark gold colored with intense, complex, dry, finely integrated layers of zesty citrus fruits accented by notes of roasted almonds and paine grille with hints of fresh dough, smoke, and pineapple with a long bright vibrant finish. 

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2894

https://charlesheidsieck.com/en

@CHChampagne 

 https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2021/06/fathers-day-grilled-steak-wine-dinner.html

The wine flight also included the remains of the St Emilion Bordeaux L'Arossee we had left over from the previous evening dinner. 

E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Château d'Ampuis 2008

The Guigal domain was founded in 1946 by Etienne Guigal in the ancient historic village of Ampuis, home of the legendary wines of the Côte-Rôtie. Some of the historic vineyards are over 2400 years old, bordered by small terraced walls dating back to the Roman period. Etienne Guigal arrived in the region in 1923 at the age of 14 and produced over 67 vintages of wine over his storied career. 

Guigal handed over the reins to his young son Marcel Guigal in 1961 when he was afflicted by an illness that left him blind. Over the years, Marcel expanded the Guigal brand and holdings buying out Vidal-Fleury in 1984, the Jean-Louis Grippat estate in Saint-Joseph and Hermitage in 2000, and Domaine de Vallouit in Côte-Rôtie, Hermitage, Saint-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage.

In the cellars of the Guigal estate in Ampuis, they produce wines from the great appellations of the northern Rhône Valley: Côte-Rôtie, Condrieu, Hermitage, Saint-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage. They also expanded to produce wines from appellations of the Southern Rhône, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, Tavel and Côtes-du-Rhône, which are also aged in the Ampuis cellars.

Winemaker notes for this label: "The hallmark of Chateau d'Ampuis is an unbelievably seductive perfume full of sweet red fruits, black fruits and spices, and an elegance despite the intense concentration of fruit. Chateau d'Ampuis defines what a great wine should be with its beautiful balance, complexity and length."

This was awarded 93 points by Wine Enthusiast who wrote, "In this difficult vintage, Guigal's Chateau Ampuis bottling shines. The kinky nose features exotic notes of celery seed, cracked pepper, hickory smoke and mixed berries, while in the mouth the wine shows ample fullness and intensity without losing any of the silky character that makes Cote Rôtie special. Drink now–2020."

This was an ideal pairing with the smoked BBQ but was overshadowed by the more complex and elegant Grange and the bigger bolder more concentrated and more complex Pape Clement. 

This was dark garnet color, medium-bodied with black fruit and notes of herbs, smoke, pepper and tapenade with soft tannins on a long rather acidic finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1286574 

@DOMAINEGUIGAL

Penfolds Grange Shiraz 1990

This is a legendary bottle from a legendary producer and label. Penfolds and Grange are considered the most famous and prestigious labels of Australian wines dating back to the first experimental release in 1951. At 170 years of age, Penfolds is one of the oldest producers in Australia. They were named Australian Wine Producer of the Year 2014 by the International Wine and Spirit Competition (IWSC). Their  flagship wine is this ultra-premium Grange, one of the most prestigious labels in the world as well as from Australia.

This release from the 1990 vintage year, Alec's birth year, was a Wine Spectator Wine of the Year in 1995.  I've written more extensively about this release of this label in earlier blogposts.

This was acquired as part of a OWC, (original wood case) upon release and has been held in our cellar ever since. The fill level of this bottle, at 31 years was lower neck, appropriate for its age, while the tissue, label, foil and cork were perfect, having been held in the original wood case in our cellar since release. 

Consistent with earlier tasting of this label, dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, flawless, elegant, polished, harmonious, perfectly balanced, silky smooth flavors of concentrated black berry and black raspberry fruits with notes of vanilla, licorice, spice, black truffles and oak with hints of spice and cedar turning to fine grained tongue puckering tannins on the long lingering finish.

RM 95 points.

Wine Spectator gave this 98 points, James Halliday 97 points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 95 points, and Jancis Robinson gave it 18 out of her twenty point scale. 

James Halliday said it was 'destined to be one of the greatest Granges'. Wine Spectator called it  'magnificent, exotic, a veritable cascade of opulent flavors'. The Rewards of Patience - Fifth Edition (2004) called it Outstanding and projected its Drinking Window from now to 2040. Southcorp Wines said, 'The 1990 vintage was the kind that winemakers only expect to see once or twice in an entire career'.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=6295

https://www.penfolds.com/

https://twitter.com/penfolds

@penfolds

Château Pape Clément, Pessac-Léognan Graves Grand Cru Classe 2015

Alec brought this bottle from his cellar, one of a case of this wine he received from his best buddies for his 30th birthday. This is especially memorable and fun to share as I consulted with and advised his friends on selecting this label for this special gift. Its hard to believe or imagine one could serve another bottle that matches or tops the legendary 1990 Grange label above, considered one of the best releases of that prestigious label in history. 

This is one of four Grand Cru Classé wine châteaux owned by Bernard Magrez. He went into the wine trade when he left school at the age of 16, and proclaims he was totally self taught from books and great discipline.

In 1961, when he was 25 years old he traveled to the USA and discovered the super market. On his return to France, he set up his own company, specializing in whisky and port. Selling his port to the French Carrefour hypermarket in France, it became the second most popular brand of port in the country. Over time he expanded the range of spirits eventually capturing the market. 

In the 1980s, he set his focus on top-end wine estates and he acquired Château Pape Clément, the famous Graves Grand Cru Classé, which had been classified for thirty years by then. He then acquired Château Fombrauge, a Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé, followed by Château La Tour Carnet, a Médoc Grand Cru Classé since 1855; and finally, Clos Haut Peyraguey, a Sauternes Premier Grand Cru Classé. He became the only person to own four prestigious wine estates at the same time.   

He has since acquired vineyards in eight different countries: Morocco, Spain, Portugal, Japan, Argentina, Uruguay, Chile, and the US, for a total of 43 wine estates comprising over 1,000 hectares (2,470 acres) of vines. 

Château Pape Clément is one of the oldest Bordeaux Grands Crus, dating back to the 13th Century. The estate’s vineyard established by Bertrand de Goth, who in 1305 became Pope Clément V, the name subsequently given to the Château. The first harvest was in 1252.  The historic estate and brand were acquired by Bernard Magrez in 1980. 

Château Pape Clément is located in Pessac in the Pessac-Léognan appellation contrôlée within the wider Graves wine region of the Left Bank of Bordeaux. We drove through the area during our Bordeaux wine tour in 2018 as the Chateau and estate are but eight miles from the Merignac Bordeaux Airport.  

This is one of the top labels, Vinous calls it "one of the stars" from this top vintage from Bordeaux. It was rated 99 points by James Suckling, 97 points by Jeb Dunnuck, 96 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Vinous, and 95 points and a Cellar Selection by Wine Enthusiast. This could arguably be the best bottle of Australian wine one will ever taste, at any price, Of course it is also one of the most expensive bottles of Australian wine to be found. 

This was a perfect pairing with the grilled smoked BBQ ribs, however, this wine would be a perfect pairing with pretty much anything! 

This is a blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc, It was aged 18 months in 80% new French oak.

Dark blackish garnet purple colored, medium-full bodied, complex and concentrated yet elegant and polished, perfectly balanced and integrated notes of black currant, black cherry and black berry fruits accented by notes of truffles, cassis, tobacco, hints of dark mocha, spicy clove and graphite turning to smooth polished supple tannins on the full lingering finish. 

RM 96 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2353553

https://bernard-magrez.com/en/le-chateau-pape-clement-2/

 

 

Château Picque Caillou Pessac-Léognan 2007

Château Picque Caillou Pessac-Léognan 2007

For casual beginning of the week sipping with dinner of left-over meatloaf and grilled vegetables, I pulled from the cellar this modest Grand Vin de Bordeaux. 

Château Picque Caillou is in the shadows of Bordeaux Merignac Airport, just 10 km on the route to the city of Bordeaux. It lies in the heart of the Pessac-Léognan appellation in central Medoc region of Bordeaux, a semi-urban area within the perimeter circular route that surrounds the city. We passed within just a few km of the site during our visit to the region in 2019.

Pessac-Léognan was created in 1987 from the northern part of the left bank Graves appellation. Before then it was simply part of Graves. Unlike many Bordeaux appellations, Pessac-Léognan is known for both red and dry white wines, although its reds are more predominant and famous. 

The appellation includes ten communes and the area’s most important châteaux, including Château Haut-Brion, the only non-Médoc estate included in the 1855 Bordeaux classification. 

There are 2,964 acres of vineyards in Pessac-Léognan with 16 classified growth estates. The main red grapes grown are Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, along with a small amount of Cabernet Franc. White grapes grown are Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, with a little Muscadelle. Pessac-Léognan is considered to have the best terroir of the greater Graves region. 

Château Picque Caillou is not far from the prestigious Haut-Brion, La Mission Haut Brion and Pape Clément châteaux that are also surrounded by the urban sprawl of the city.

Once the heart of the Bordeaux vineyard, the vines of the “Graves de Bordeaux” surrounded the city. Today, Picque Caillou remains one of the last remaining vineyard sites surrounded by the all-consuming urban development that belies the respected soils and history. The 21-hectare (fifty acre) Caillou estate is named for the pebbly soils that originated from sediments deposited by the nearby Garonne River over thousands of years. Similarly, the prestigious second growth Château Ducru Beaucaillou is named for the beautiful tiny pebbles indicative of the gravelly soil further up the Gironde estuary. 

In 2006, Paulin Calvet took over the daily running of the vineyard. Coming from a long line of Bordeaux wine merchants, Paulin Calvet brought skills and experience he acquired in Libourne at the Jean-Pierre Moueix merchant house where he worked in the company of wine-growing experts Christian Moueix and Jean-Claude Berrouet. Paulin Calvet learned the subtleties of the best practices of vine-growing methods and vinification techniques practised by these two great Bordeaux wine professionals.

The wines of Picque Caillou quickly acquired higher levels of quality and consistency, soon attracting the attention of numerous wine professionals. Joining Paulin Calvet in 2007 were consultant œnologists Professor Denis Dubourdieu and Valérie Lavigne who added further technical experience and skills to the winemaking team. This served to improve the quality of the wines further, producing wines that display balance and delicacy, reflecting the style and character of the prestigious Pessac-Léognan appellation.

The estate is planted to 35% Merlot; 60% Cabernet Sauvignon; and 5% Petit Verdot red varietals, and 80% Sauvignon Blanc, and 20% Sémillon white varietals. Château Picque Caillou Red makes up around 60-70% of the total production, i.e. 65,000 to 80,000 bottles delivered in wooden cases of 12 bottles.

At fourteen years, this may be at its apex, not likely to improve further with aging, but showing no signs of diminution either. As shown, the cork was in perfect condition and the fill level was ideal as well.

At the modest entry level price point for a Grand Vin Bordeaux, in good vintage years this can offer great QPR - Quality Price Ratio, as in such years, 'all boats rise with the tide', resulting in high quality wines at good values. 

This was ruby colored, medium bodied with red and black fruits giving way to rustic, dusty herbs and spices, tobacco, floral notes and a bit of green pepper with tangy moderate tannins on the finish.  

RM 87 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=512129

http://www.picque-caillou.com/chateau-picque-caillou-pessac-leognan-en/chateau-picque-caillou.html

Château La Tour Haut-Brion 1999

Château La Tour Haut-Brion Cru Classé Pessac-Leognan Bordeaux 1999

For mid-week grilled tenderloin dinner we served this vintage Bordeaux Cru Classé from Château La Tour Haut Brion from the Pessac-Léognan appellation in Graves. The estate was located in the commune of Talence on the outskirts of the city of Bordeaux, adjacent to Château La Mission Haut-Brion. The label used to be a separate château under the same ownership as Châteaux Haut Brion and La Mission Haut Brion. The 5.05 hectares (12.47 acres) of vineyards were planted with 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Cabernet Franc, and 23% Merlot, a mix similar to Haut Brion. Production was about 2,000 to 2,500 cases per year.

Prior to 1983, Ch. la Tour Haut-Brion was the second wine of La Mission Haut-Brion, but after the La Mission and La Tour properties were taken over by the Domaine Clarence Dillon, La Tour gained its own branding identity. Château La Tour Haut-Brion was the smallest of the classed growths of red Graves producers and the label was discontinued after its final vintage in 2005. Since then, the fruit of La Tour Haut-Brion has been included in the production blend of Château La Mission Haut-Brion.

This was dark garnet colored, medium bodied with complex structure with black berry and black plum fruits with bright lively floral aromatics, accented by notes of cigar box, cedar, leather and subtle tones of dark mocha. This was an ideal complement to the grilled tenderloin steak.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=88122

http://www.mission-haut-brion.com/

Chateau Haura Graves Bordeaux 2015

Château Haura Graves Bordeaux 2015

Traveling to the Twin Cities where the temps plunged forty degrees to zero degree windchills and freezing rain, for the second night in a row I went to Total Wine to get a robust hearty wine to complement dinner. I found this Bordeaux Graves that is a 'Winery Direct' label that Total Wine sources directly from the producer resulting in good QPR (quality price ratio) at less than $20.

Dark blackish garnet colored, medium bodied, tight firmly structured black fruits of black berry, black cherry and dark plum with notes of smoke, creosote and leather with moderate approachable tannins on the lingering finish. Much like the Northern Rhone Syrah I had last evening, this begged for and was a great accompaniment to smoked cheese and barbecue.

RM 90 points.

Wine Advocate gave this barrel sample 90-92 points. I might have rated it higher had the fruits been more predominant opposite the non-fruit notes.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2376326

Vie Restaurant Western Springs Restaurant Week Price Fixe Dinner

Vie Restaurant Western Springs Restaurant Week Price Fixe Dinner w/ Wine Flight

For the annual Restaurant Week Chicago, participating restaurants offer special price fixe dinners to introduce patrons to their venue and cuisine. Typically, these offer great value dining opportunities and sell out very quickly. Once again, we dined at Vie Restaurant in nearby Western Springs and invited Dr Dan and Linda to experience one of our west suburban dining gems.

We also took advantage of their wine accompanying tasting menu.

This was a bit of a fluke since while reviewing the menu and pairings, Dan notice Bacchus as the wine selection for the entree course. Having a collection and being a big fan of Phelps Bachus, he jumped on the choice and we all followed.

Naturally this was most likely a coincidental sleight of convenient confusion between two labels of similar name. Of course the ultra-premium Bachus would not be featured by the glass, let alone at the price fixe pricepoint. Probably innocence rather than deception since only but a few would likely consider this to be an option. Never-the-less, we didn't consider the variation and jumped on the feature offering.

Vie's Restaurant Week Menu

FIRST
celery root and apple crostada, crispy chicken skin, smoked apple butter
or
kielbasa, sauerkraut, sweet and sour turnips, mustard

SECOND
sweet potato soup, pickled cherry bomb peppers, chicharrons, crème fraiche - this was incredible - tasty, nicely presented and amazing in the unique cherry bomb peppers that exploded on the palate with tiny bursts of spicy heat, almost to vanish as quickly so as not to be offending in any way. 
or
roasted beets, gorgonzola, marmalade vinaigrette, grilled greens, sunflower seeds

THIRD
cdk beef combination: wood-grilled sirloin and shaved italian beef, fried giardiniera, smashed potatoes, kale, grilled onions, “juice” - interesting combination, novel, but not something I would choose for an elegant dinner entree
or
catfish piccata, brown butter basmati rice, roasted carrots, pickled asparagus, meyer lemon, capers

FOURTH

dark chocolate mousse cake, sour cherry compote, whipped white chocolate

or

pear caramel hand pie, blonde chocolate ice cream

The wine flight was carefully selected to complement each course. Each was a lesser wine that we would not normally order or hold in our cellar, yet each held up to the occasion, thereby offering substantial QPR - quality price ratio value, with each selection.

Michael Pozzan Winery Dante California Noir 2015

Michael Pozzan's Dante Pinot Noir, named after his eldest son, Michael Dante Pozzan, and inspired by wines discovered during travels through Italy, presents a selection one might find in the neighborhood trattoria. A unique but interesting and appropriate selection both options of the First Course. 

The 2015 Dante Pinot Noir is medium light bodied, with light opaque burgundy and light purple tones in color. Aromas and flavors of fresh raspberries and rose petals, give way to tones of vanilla and lightly roasted coffee with hints of sweet spicy oak and vanilla bean throughout the finish.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2586300

For the second course soup ..

Château de Respide Graves Blanc Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend 2014

Light straw color with a greenish hue, light medium bodied, slightly green grass and soapy tones accented by wet stone, floral, mineral with sweet pink grapefruit citrus, peach and honey notes with bright but modest light acidity.

RM 85 points.

This is a lovely wine: made from 66% Sémillon and 34% Sauvignon.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2132105




the other middle course wine .....

 Di Giovanna Nerello Mascalese Sicilian Rosato Gerbino

This is a unique Rosato from Sicily made from the Sicilian Nerello Mascalese grape known for expressive aromatics and spice. Aurelio Di Giovanna sourced the fruit from a 100 year old vineyard in Noto in Eastern Sicily where the vine has it’s origins.

The Di Giovanna family has been cultivating their 56 hectares of vineyards for five generations just outside the town of Sambuca di Sicilia in western Sicily. Their wines are made exclusively with their estate fruit with the grapes for this label coming from their Miccina & Paradiso vineyards.

This Rosato di Nerello Mascalese is light medium bodied, soft round textured, rhubarb colored, with bing cherry and red currant fruits with notes of floral violets and mineral on the moderate finish.


RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2110622

For the main entree course ...

Bacchus Cellars California Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

Not to be confused with that other ultra-premium Bachus label, this label is from David Gordon, the wine director at the legendary trendy Tribeca Grill New York City restaurant. Owned by restaurateur Drew Nieporent and actor Robert DeNiro, Tribeca Grill features a highly regarded wine program with a list of over 1800 selections. It is one of only six Wine Spectator Grand Award winner wine lists in New York City.

David created this Bacchus label sourced from many producer contacts he has in Napa and Sonoma. While the wineries that are currently used wish to remain anonymous, producers such as Caymus, Lewis Cellars and Miner Family have provided grapes and helped with the winemaking for earlier cuvees. The result is an incredible high value QPR (quality price ratio) wine at a modest price point.

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, bright and approachable, with balanced flavors of black plum and black currant fruits, tones of cassis, mocha and a touch of earth and cedar, finishing with moderate tannins and oak.

RM 87 points.

 https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2574676

 The Dessert Course accompaniment ..

Warre's Heritage Ruby NV Port

A nice easy casual sipping accompaniment to the dessert

Chateau La Louviere Pessac-Leognan 1994

Château La Louvière Pessac-Leognan Graves Bordeaux 1994

I last tasted and wrote about this wine about eighteen months ago when I wrote, "There is still life left in this nineteen year old. We still have half a dozen half bottles of this original case we purchased upon release. The original wood cases of 375ml small format half bottles contained 24 bottles equaling the same amount of wine as twelve regular 750ml bottles."  

That OWC - Original Wood Case, shown left, was buried in a double stack of cases in the corner of the cellar. When I moved the stack to gain access to our well tank recently, which provides passive cooling in our subterranean cellar, I pulled out this case and realized, that while its a half case, its twelve bottles remaining, since a case of 375 half bottles actually contains twice as many bottles, (but the same amount of wine (as a standard case of 12 bottles of 750ml each, as noted above.))

So we still have ten or eleven bottles of this left, and based on tonight's tasting, its time to drink up! Still not bad since the smaller 375 ml format bottles tend to age less gracefully and not hold as long as standard or larger format bottles. Our Tasting Journal Index for this wine shows a half dozen tasting notes going back seven years. (I suspect I have earlier tasting notes not indexed. I'll look into this at some point.)

While I lauded that there was life left in the earlier bottle tasting note, tonight, the dark berry fruits are definitely giving way to non-fruit earth, leather, creosote and musty wood notes. 

Dark ruby color with a brownish tinge starting to set in. Medium bodied, leathery and smoky creosote tones predominate over the black cherry and black berry fruits, accented by cedar and tangy and slightly tart cinnamon spice that gives way to a big full floral note that fills the mouth and lingers for minutes with the tongue coating moderate tannins.

This wine provides a good QPR - Quality Price Ratio with its pleasant early drinkability coupled with its longevity.

RM 86 points, (diminished from 89 at last tasting).

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=38869

Chez Joel for simple wines and small plates bistro food

Chez Joël Bistro Francais in Chicago Little Italy For Simple Hi-QPR Wine and Authentic French Plates

Following our annual family ball game outing, we stopped in one of our favorite bistros, Chez Joël, that actually sits in Little Italy, Chicago, for some wine and food before heading back out to the 'burbs. The quest for authenticity in the menu, atmosphere and setting carries over to the wine list which is unpretentious and inviting with good value modest French selections. One can almost imagine sitting in a small ville in France.

I ordered the Pâté de deux Sortes duck & chicken liver pâté and the Fromage de Brie Chaud warm brie cheese with honey, apricot, garlic and almond to accompany the wine.  Ryan and Michelle split the grilled Angus NY Strip Steak with Roquefort Cheese Sauce and Mashed Potatoes and the roasted beet and arugula salad with goat cheese.

Having drunken one of the top Graves' producers, Chateau Pape Clement the other night, we settled on the Graves as a basis for comparison, good value, and a perfect accompaniment to the food.


The Graves appellation, named for the small pebbles that predominate in the gravelly clay soils, is the southernmost appellation in the Bordeaux region. It is well known more for it's crisp white wines made from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, but it also offers some top reds including first growth Haut Brion, as well as others that tend to be less well known yet offer good QPR - Quality Price Ratios.

Graves wines are known for character, structure and fruit, typically at prices less expensive than wines of similar quality from the nearby Médoc.




 Château du Maine Graves Bordeaux 2009

Château du Maine is a 25 acre vineyard planted in vines with average age of 25 yrs. in 55% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc and 8% combined of Petit-Verdot and Malbec.

The winemaker producer is Jean-Pierre Duprat.

The château sits atop a hill, composed mainly of gravel and coarse sand with a gravel-clay subsoil, that offers excellent drainage for the property. Hence his wines are less affected by late season or harvest time rains. 

Not overly complex or elegant but pleasant easy drinking, ruby colored and medium bodied, this bright vibrant flavorful red wine boasts lots of cherry and berry fruits accented by cinnamon spice and a layer and slight harsh edge of iodine and cedar tones. Aged in oak barrels (about 30% new) for about 18 months gives a slight oak tone to the terroir structure that has modest fine tannins on the finish.

RM 85 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1691583

http://www.chezjoelbistro.com/

www.chateau-du-maine.fr

Château La Louvière Pessac-Leognan Graves Bordeaux 1994

There is still life left in this nineteen year old. We still have half a dozen half bottles of this original case we purchased upon release. The original wood cases of 375ml small format half bottles contained 24 bottles equaling the same amount of wine as twelve regular 750ml bottles.

Dark Ruby color with a brownish tinge starting to set in. Medium bodied, leathery and smoky tones predominate over the black cherry and black berry fruits, accented by cedar and tangy cinnamon spice that gives way to a big full floral note that fills the mouth and lingers for minutes with the tongue coating moderate tannins.

This wine provides a good QPR - Quality Price Ratio with its pleasant early drinkability coupled with its longevity.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=38869

Château Picque Caillou Pessac Leognan 2010

Château Picque Caillou, Pessac Leognan, Graves, Bordeaux 2010

We just attended the 2010 Bordeaux release tasting of the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux  tasting in Chicago a short while back.One lesson learned was that the 2010 vintage, here-to-fore overshadowed by the legendary 2009's, is a high achiever, one to be taken seriously and provides some good notable wines, even from some of the lesser labels. The 2010 Bordeaux vintage was monumental with dry conditions, cool temperatures, and sunny days. It produced wines displaying a ripeness, freshness, and concentration found only in the finest vintages. As expected in top vintage years, the most famous estates produced memorable wines, but so did some lesser estates as well. 

Pessac Leognan is in the Appellation of Grave, a vast region, spanning over 50 kilometres directly south of the town of Bordeaux. Its name originates from the gravelly soils deposited there in the last ice age, which impart much of the character associated with their mineral whites and sophisticated reds. Grave is the only Bordeaux region that produces quality reds, whites as well as sweet desert wines. The region encompasses several smaller communes including Pessac Leognan, Sauternes and Barsac.

Chateau Picque Caillou was built in 1780 in what was then the countryside outside of Bordeaux. It is situated near the Rocade just a few hundred metres from legendary First Growth Chateau Haut Brion. Isabelle and Paulin Calvet took over the management of the estate prior to purchasing it in 1997. Having brought in superstar winemaker Denis Dubourdieu, Picque Caillou is now producing award winning wines that are are a worthwhile discovery. With the addition of winemaker Paulin Calvet, a former employee of negociant J-P. Moueix who learned from both Christian Moueix and the now-retired winemaker of Chateau Petrus, Jean-Claude Berrouet, they are now one of the emerging rising stars producing some of the best deals in the 2010 Bordeaux vintage. 

The 2010 Chateau Picque Caillou, is what one might call a diamond in the rough, a nice wine for the value conscious wine enthusiast.

This Pique Caillou is medium bodied, delicate, nicely balanced and polished. yet packing a backbone of moderate tannins - it presents expressive blackberry, a layer of spice and cassis with touch of smoke and well integrated soft oak. The tones of of blackberry are accented with hints of dark plum and a touch of cracked pepper before giving way to the lingering tannin finish. It provides for sophisticated yet pleasurable easy drinking at a modest price. The rather soft delicate nature may be a result of the blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Merlot.

RM 89 points.  

This represents a good value high QPR (Quality to Price Ratio) wine, hard to find from Bordeaux at this price point of $25.   

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1166238 

http://www.picque-caillou.com