Massolino wines with spaghetti

Massolino Piedmontese Barolo and Barbera wines with spaghetti 

Linda prepared spaghetti and I pulled from the cellar two bottles, just recently acquired Massolino red wines. We met the producer Franco Massolino week before last down in Florida at the special Massolino Wine Producer Dinner at Wine World Wine Bar, Destin (FL).

Having just been introduced to this brand, meeting the producer, and tasting a flight of his wines paired with the dinner courses, I was interested to see what wines are available back in Chicago.

I visited Binny’s, our wine and beverage big box superstore and picked up each of the Massolino labels available to try, and compare with the broad flight we tasted at the dinner. 

Massolino is one of Piedmont’s most respected and historic producers dating back to its founding in 1896. I wrote more about their history in my blogpost - Massolino Wine Dinner Destin.

Massolino’s vineyards, located in the prized areas of Serralunga d'Alba, benefit from the region’s calcareous soils and high altitude, which contribute to the wine’s distinctive minerality and longevity.

Massolino Barbara D’Alba Serralunga D’Alba 2021

This is an earlier vintage of the 2022 Massolino Barbera d'Alba that we tasted at the Destin wine dinner. 

Barbera d’Alba DOC is a popular wine produced in the area, in the historic village situated right in between the famous regions of Barolo and Barbaresco, Alba is also the name for the larger wine region surrounding the village.  It has been produced since its first year of production back in 1896. This Barbera is released onto the market in the spring following harvest.

Generally, “Alba” is a catch-all phrase, and includes the declassified Nebbiolo varietal grape based wines made in Barolo and Barbaresco, as well as the Nebbiolo grown just outside of these regions’ borders. 

Nebbiolo d’Alba is a softer, less tannic and more fruit-forward wine ready to drink within just a couple years of bottling. It is more approachable and affordable variation of Nebbiolo wines.

Friendly and approachable, Barbera produces wines in a wide range of styles, from youthful, fresh and fruity to serious, structured and age-worthy. Piedmont is the most famous source of Barbera; those from Asti and Alba being the most well known and most highly regarded. 

Barbera is planted alongside the predominant Nebbiolo in the surrounding hills, and referred to as Barbera d’Alba, takes on a more powerful and concentrated personality compared to its counterparts in Asti.

Barbera adapt well to many climates and has been successful in some New World regions.

Winemaker notes - “Appearance: deep purplish red. Bouquet: elegant, sweet and tempting, the intense and fruity notes characteristic of Barbera emerge. Flavour: vinous, fresh and well balanced. An easy to drink wine which is tasty and rich without being excessively binding.” 

This was a nice complement pairing to the spaghetti and tangy tomato and bolognese sauce. 

Slightly opaque garnet colored, medium bodied, black fruit flavors with notes of cedar, tar and black tea with a crisp tannic finish. 

RM 89 points. 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/4338733

We opened this the following evening with left over spaghetti. 

Massolino Barollo 2020

The Massolino Barolo 2020 is a classic expression of Nebbiolo, a wine that showcases the unique terroir of Serralunga while adhering to traditional winemaking techniques, such as fermentation in large oak barrels, to enhance the wine’s authenticity and sense of place. 

This Barolo is an outstanding representation of the 2020 vintage and a superb addition to any collection, offering a harmonious blend of finesse, structure, and aging potential. This is designated a Barolo DOCG Classico and is 100% Nebbiolo, blended from the various vineyards of the Massolino estate, crafted to be a ‘holistic expression of our hills’. Made from grapes grown in different vineyards, Barolo DOCG Classico Massolino “represents the synthesis of the different characteristics offered by each terroir”, resulting in a wine of greater depth and complexity.

This blend of grapes sourced from across the Massolino estate vineyards, as compared to a single designated specific vineyard label, which are produced as ultra-premium bottlings and ultra-premium price-points, such as the one served at our Destin Wine Dinner - 2020 Massolino Barolo from the Margheria Vineyard. 

It should be noted that this is a premium wine, as indicated by the DOCG designation, and is a price-point  twice that of the Barbera D’Alba. The producer notes - “Barolo DOCG classico occupies an outstanding role for our estate. With this wine, we wish to propose a bottle of the very highest level!” 

So, the progression of these wines in this post, range from $25, to $50, to $120 to $185. 

This is traditionally aged in large Slavonian oak barrels for up to 30 months before being left to mature in bottles placed in special dark, cool cellars, “to maintain a purer and more forthright identity. A broad and variable range of aromas, with a surprising expressive evolution over time.” 

Nebbiolo is more than a bit deceiving. It looks pale and light like a Pinot Noir, but it produces big bold, powerful full bodied, wines that also tend to be mercilessly tannic. 

This classic label was first produced by Massolino in 1947.

While the spaghetti was even better the following evening, it was nicely paired with this more complex and sophisticated red wine. 

The 2020 vintage is a beautiful example of the house style, combining elegance, power, and structure. This Barolo opens with aromas of red cherries, wild berries, and rose petals, accompanied by notes of tobacco, spices, and subtle earthy undertones. 

The wine is classic Barolo and its distinctive style and profile - full-bodied on the palate, with firm tannins, vibrant acidity, and a long, persistent finish. The balance of fruit and structure makes this Barolo approachable in its youth, but it also has the depth and complexity to age gracefully for many years. 

Winemaker notes - “Appearance: garnet red colour with variable intensity depending on the vintage. Bouquet: the grapes come from different vineyards and this gives them a broad and variable spectrum of perfumes, ranging from tempting spicy notes to those of a sweeter, floral and fruity nature. Flavour: a variety of sensations, with a full-bodied, classic and well structured wine which ages well and perfectly represents the important character of our land.”

The 2020 vintage was rated 94 points by James Suckling, 93 points by Kerin O'Keefe and Wine Enthusiast, and 92 points by Jeb Dunnuck.

Medium ruby colored, medium bodied, complex but nicely balanced and smooth, expressive bright vibrant ripe mixed berry fruits with notes of savory herbs, cedar, black tea, hints of clove spice, anise, tar with mineral, soft velvety tannins, on the moderate finish.

RM 92 points.  

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/4939851

Massolino Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda Nebbiolo 2015

I acquired this ultra-premium aged vintage label from Binny’s wine cellar which we’ll hold for a special occasion, suitable for opening such a wine. 

The CellarTracker posted drinking window for this wine is 2025 through 2044, hence its just now entering its prime drinking window, having benefited from a decade of aging, and it is projected to last for another two decades at its peak. 

Wines such as this are made for long term cellaring and aging, holding for a perfect opportunity and occasion for enjoying, and pairing with optimal food. 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/3273868

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3273868

https://www.massolino.it/en/

Team dinner at Angeli's Italian

 Team dinner at Angeli's Italian 

As my leadership team continues our workshops in strategic planning, we move to the western suburbs for a day of planning which is becoming somewhat of a routine. The out of town team members move to their suburban hotel and we gather for a pre-session dinner at Angeli's Italian, our favorite neighborhood Italian trattoria. 

I took BYOB from our home cellar two wines I was eager to share and compare, that I expected to be ideal accompaniments to our Italian cuisine dinner. 

Tenuta Guado al Tasso (Antinori) Bolgheri Il Bruciato 2016

We discovered this wine when we dined for Saturday Brunch in NYC Chelsea Flatiron neighborhood with son Alec and Viv, we dined at La Pecora Bianca (The White Sheep) on Broadway at 26th. With my Tagliatelle with beef and pork bolognese sauce I paired my entree with this Il Bruciato Tenuta Guado al Tasso - a delicious perfect combination as each was embellished and enhanced by the other as a result. 

Upon returning home I went out and purchased more of this label release at at Malloy's, our Village wine shop. We have enjoyed it with tangy Italian pasta and meat sauce dishes. Hence, I took this tonight for our special dinner with my colleagues at our favorite neighborhood trattoria, Angeli's Italian.

Tenuta Guado al Tasso (Antinori) Bolgheri Il Bruciato 2016

As I wrote in my original posting of this wine, this is what is known as a Super Tuscan, made famous in the 70s when wine critics noted the quality rivaled that of high-end Bordeaux. 

The Bolgheri area was known for producing IGT and VdT wines based on the typical Bordeaux varietals. 

VdT classification is the first or lowest quality standard, stands for Vino da Tavola, or Table Wine. Wines marked with a VdT on the label tells you they’re made in Italy, and that’s about it. IGT classification, the second level, one step up from the VdT wines is the IGT classification, which stands for Indicazione Geografica Tipica — IGT-classed wine is “typical” of a particular geography or local region. Most IGT wines are simple, made from grapes grown locally and intended to be drank young. Many IGT wines from Tuscany are made from Sangiovese, a grape with a long history in the region. Think of them as a table wine.

In 1994, the Bolgheri DOC appellation designation was created to recognize more notable, higher quality wines. DOC, or Denominazione di Origine Controllata. The key word here is Controllata, meaning that a DOC wine is produced in a specific, well-defined region in Italy, according to defined wine making rules that are designed to preserve local traditions.  These wines tend to offer great QPR - Quality Price Ratio values.

This label if from the vast portfolio of the Antinori family who have been producing fine wines for over six centuries since 1385, a history that spans twenty-six generations. They produce legendary wines from nine different estates across Italy, and since 1985 from an Estate in Napa Valley, Californina.

This label is from the Guado al Tasso estate, located in the small but prestigious Bolgheri DOC, on the coast of upper Maremma, about one hundred kilometers southwest from Florence. This appellation has a relatively recent history, DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata (Denomination of Controlled Origin) Bolgheri was approved in 1995 and since then it has become recognized for the Italian and international winemaking. 

The estate covers an area of 320 hectares (790 acres) planted with vines, set in a beautiful plain encircled by rolling hillsides known as the "Bolgheri Amphitheatre" due to its particular shape. The vineyards are planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Vermentino. The proximity to the sea provides a mild climate with constant breezes that mitigate summer heat and alleviate harsh winter weather, maintaining a clear sky and a high level of sunlight exposure.

Il Bruciato was first produced in 2002 and has become an interpretation of Bolgheri’s unique terroir made from carefully selected Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah grapes from Guado al Tasso’s vineyards. The geological composition of the soil is diversified giving the wine structure and complexity.

Winemaker notes: The 2016 Il Bruciato offers an intense ruby red color. On the nose, the aromas of ripe red berry fruit, sweet spices, and a light and fresh minty note are the most prominent sensations. The palate is well structured, persistent, and very pleasurable in its fruity finish and aftertaste.

The 2016 Il Bruciato was given four months of bottle aging before commercial release.

This 2016 Il Bruciato was delicious and provides great high QPR value. Amazingly, more than one million bottles were produced at this quality level. It is great for every day casual sipping but will also stand up to special occasions and quality drinking.

This wine, “Il Bruciato,” which means “the burned” is the second wine of Antinori’s Tenuta Guado al Tasso, second to the flagship wine, “Guado al Tasso”, named after the large vineyard in Bolgheri in which the grapes are grown.

This Il Bruciato, produced to be a more approachable and contemporary style of wine than the more traditional estate wine, is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 15% Syrah.

This was delicious again tonight in combination with our dinner entrees. 

Bright ruby colored, medium bodied, smooth, polished for casual easy drinking with vibrant red and black fruit flavors accented by spice, mocha and smoke with elegant soft tannins on a moderate lingering finish.

RM 92 points.

The Wine Advocate gave this 93 pts, Jame Suckling of Wine Spectator gave it 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2904858

https://www.antinori.it/en/vino/il-bruciato-en/ 

https://www.antinori.it/en/

 

Our second bottle with dinner was a real unique wild card selection, pulled from my home cellar and brought BYOB for dinner. 

BLANKbottle Petit Verdot Pat Bird 2019

I discovered this bottle, a special selection offering from Vin Chicago. Finding it intriguing I ordered a six pack case, and now wish I had acquired more. Of course on trying to obtain more it is long gone, and not likely to be found again as it is a select bottling. I wrote about another unique BLANKbottle -  "B.I.G. SA" Swartland Cabernet Blend 2019  wine that I also purchased at the same time in a recent blogpost.  

This was another special buy from VinChicago who find and often offer such limited release labels at good value - high QPR (quality price ratio) wine finds. This seemed to be good value relative to the market price if you could find it. Being from South Africa, it had lesser brand recognition and distribution with a more limited following than more popular regional wines. Searching for this label, I found it available throughout Europe and in a few locations on the east coast, in all cases at prices ten to thirty percent to 2x higher!

During my South Africa Wine Experience in 2019, I tasted some really good wines from down there, thus was open to try some unknown labels. 

Fun with wine ... as the header of this blog states, I write about "perspectives on wine buying, collecting, tasting, a study in wine marketing & branding; observations, experiences and ruminations of a winegeek & frequent traveler." This post is the epitome of such ruminations.  

This wine is the extreme of the broad spectrum of wines and labels, the polar opposite of the grower producer terroir driven wine labels where one collects and compares the subtleties of variations of the same label from vintage to vintage over time, the same wine sourced from the same 'estate' producer owned vineyard (s).

This is from South African winemaker producer Pieter Walser, who travels the region sourcing a vast wide variety of grapes from numerous growers to produce a broad portfolio of labels, many one-of single vintage offerings, and some that are repeated. There are several American and French producers that employ this negociant method of acquiring grapes to produce a private label or own label brand. I've written in these pages the perils of 'collecting' such wines since they may never appear again. Walser notes, "At the moment, roughly 30% of our wines are once-off wines. If they perform well, they will stay on."

To his credit, he employs expensive quality packaging of these wines with heavier bottles and wax dipped capsules, and imaginative designer labels.

Pieter is regarded as one of the more innovative producers in South Africa. Pieter Walser founded BLANKbottle in 2004 to make wine of quality, excitement and mystery – for those intrigued by what’s in the bottle, not by what’s on the label. Educated in Agriculture, Viticulture and Oenology, and a nomadic, adventurous spirit, BLANKbottle was born. Pieter sought creative flexibility, not to be unconstrained by style, region, vintage and cultivars. He has developed alliances with vineyards, winemakers and wineries throughout the country (ZA), to craft a broad portfolio of unique blends of premium character. 

Pieter’s eclectic range is from vineyards positioned across the Western Cape, representing diverse regions, micro-climates, soil types, and varietals, ultimately leading to different wine styles and the ability to also introduce once-off limited runs of compelling wines.

Seeing the producer website sole photo of the winemaker, (shown left), and the way he describes himself and talks about his business and his brand, I am drawn to think this is what it would be like if Crocodile Dundee, the Australian outback movie character, were a winemaker. 

Indeed, he plays on the movie theme metaphor: “It’s our privilege to be the costume designer and screenwriter, to present this time capsule, a catalyst that brings people together, there to de-stress, entertain, – as the star headline act, in the privacy of your home.”

As Pieter tells it himself, “When I started BLANKbottle, my goal was to create an honest wine brand that had no limitations in order to break down any preconceived expectations….I’ve come to realize that the road I’m on does not necessarily lead to the perfect winery. Rather, it’s an adventure, it gives me stories to tell, and that I count as my true riches and success.” 

 

As it turns out, the Blankbottle labels that I obtained from Vin are in fact as exceptional as the wine, having, featuring creative artwork, and having recently won multiple awards, including the Grand Prix, at the 2015 Wine Label Design Awards. The "B.I.G. SA" Swartland Cabernet Blend 2019 label is ingenious and brilliant if you get a chance to check it out.

 

BLANKbottle Petit Verdot Pat Bird 2019

In trying to gather more background on this wine, all the producer website says is, "A special production exclusively to the USA. Story to come soon. A 100% Stellenbosch Petit Verdot." This is after it loads 255 different images with the notice - 'Please be patient while we load labels of our 255 different wines'. 

This bottle exceeded my expectations. It hit the mark of capturing the essence, character and profile of single varietal Petit Verdot, a full-bodied red wine that originates in Bordeaux, typically highly desired as a blending grape in red Bordeaux blends because of its plentiful color, tannin and floral aromas of violet. 

 

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, muscular firm structured backbone of black berry fruits with smokey notes of tar, anise, tobacco leaf and black tea with firm but agreeable tannins on the long finish. 

 

RM 91 points. 

 
 https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3967387

 

https://blankbottle.co.za/

 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2021/10/blankbottle-big-sa-swartland-cabernet.html

 

http://angeliscatering.com/

 

https://www.vinchicago.com/

 

https://twitter.com/vin_chicago 

 

 

Donnafugata Anthilia Sicilia Bianco 2019

Donnafugata Anthilia Sicilia Bianco DOC 2019

We discovered and tasted Donnafugata wines as part of the Italian Village Chicago virtual wine dinner tasting and food pairing. For the evening, Italian Village Restaurants hosted “A Night in Sicily” presented by Jared Gelband, Italian Village Wine Director and Chef Jose, and guest host Italian Wine Specialist, Daniele Sbordi, who lead a virtual journey to the island of Sicily and a tasting of wines from producer Donnafugata Winery. 

Having tried their wines, I was interested to explore more of their portfolio and picked up this label on my next visit to our local wine shop, Binny's, the Chicagoland beverage super store. For a baked pork chop dinner, I opened this Donnafugata Anthilia Sicilia Bianco, a crisp light refreshing easy drinking white, an ideal pairing and perfect for the occasion.

As I wrote in my recent post, Donnafugata is the brand of the Rallo family of Sicily, who have 150 years of tradition in producing premium wines. Wine producers Giacomo Rallo and his wife, Gabriella, launched the Donnafugata brand in 1983. The name Donnafugata, translated literally “woman in flight,” refers to the history of the Habsburg queen Maria Carolina who was the consort of Ferdinand IV of Bourbon. In the early 19th century, she fled Naples and found refuge a few miles from the estate’s vineyards. Her story inspired the effigy of the head of a woman with her hair tossed by the wind that dominates the label of every bottle of Donnafugata. 

Donnafugata wines are produced in three distinct grape-growing sites in western Sicily: the historic cellars in Marsala, built in 1851; the cellar at Contessa Entellina, where the company has 642 acres of vineyards planted to Ansonica, Catarratto, Nero d’Avola, Chardonnay, Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah; and the cellar on the volcanic island of Pantelleria, where Donnafugata cultivates 104 acres of Zibibbo vineyards. 

Part of their distinctive personality and branding of Donnafugata wines is their library of elaborate labels based on artwork inspired by Gabriella Rallo and designed by Stefano Vitale whose original artwork is featured each on the labels of each of the two dozen wines they produce. All Donnafugata wines are renowned for their use of native Sicilian and international varietals, balancing tradition and innovation in a quest for quality wines.

Wines from Sicily represent over 15% of Italy’s total vineyard land - more than the whole country of South Africa and almost as much as Australia!

One third of these Sicilian vineyards' acreage are devoted to the Catarratto grape, followed by Nero d’Avola, the second most produced grape and top red. Much of the Catarratto that is produced is blended with Inzolia and Grillo to make the famous Marsala wine, a fortified wine similar to Port with the rest used to produce mostly affordable everyday wines.

Donnafugata Anthilia Sicilia Bianco DOC 2019

This label is a blend of indigenous Sicilian grapes, mostly Lucido (Catarratto) and Ansonica plus a small amount of other international varieties from southwest Sicily, Italy. The wine was fermented and aged for a short period in stainless steel. 

Winemaker notes: Anthìlia is made principally from Catarratto, a white grape native to Sicily and grown at the winery’s Contessa Entellina estate and surrounding vineyards. The fruit was vinified cold in stainless steel, then aged for two months in tank and two months in bottle prior to release. The robe is clear yellow and aromatic of citrus fruits and flowers: lemon, lime, melon, bay leaf. There’s also a slight reductive note that reads like clay or wet stone. The palate is piquant, with snappy yellow fruits and peels, but the finish is more languid, tapering in ripe tropical pineapple. It’s a good partner for young cheeses, especially of goat’s milk, and light fish and shellfish preparations. It’s also a clever match for briny foods — think green olives, capers, tapenade, feta, anchovies.

More Winemaker notes for this wine: The 2019 Donnafugata Anthilia Sicilia Bianco begins with a nice crisp and fruity aroma of green apple, pear, peaches, lemon, lime and a touch of tropical fruit. Tasting the wine reveals a nicely tart combination of green apple, a little grapefruit, pear and creamy lemon/lime zest. This delicious wine has a great lively yet soft texture, good acidity and excellent underlying minerality. On the quite long and lingering finish that minerality turns chalky and comes to the front.

This was rated 91points by James Suckling and 90 points by Wine Enthusiast.

Light straw yellow colored, light bodied, fresh, lively and crisp with a fruity bouquet white apple and pear fruits with hints of citrus and wildflowers. 

 

RM 87 points.

 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3619328

https://www.donnafugata.it/en/

https://www.donnafugata.it/en/wines/anthilia/

@DonnafugataWine

@italianvlg 

@unwindwine