Grassi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

Grassi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 

We opened this Napa Cabernet up for a dinner of grilled beefsteaks. This is a label that we hold several vintages of from 2005 through 2011 but this our first tasting.

Producer Mark Grassi grew up in Northern California in Walnut Creek but moved to Napa Valley in 1980. He initially worked in the construction business but moved to pursue a career in the wine industry. To that end he took classes in viticulture and enology at Napa Valley College and worked on refining his palate.as

In 1989, Mark launched Grassi & Associates, builders of custom homes, wineries and estates in Napa and Sonoma Valley. The firm became known for its green building techniques and outstanding craftsmanship. In 1999, he and his wife, Jami, acquired 14 acres in one of Napa’s finest winegrowing areas. That vision became reality with Grassi Wine Company, founded in 2001. 

In 2000 Mark dug the first test pits on the Grassi family’s Napa Valley land and set aside four acres for planting. Early on, key guidance and wisdom came from Mary Maher, vineyard manager for Harlan, and Peter Franus of Franus Wines, who also helped oversee the first three vintages.

The Grassi vineyard was sited in what was once an ancient riverbed, located on a bench above the valley floor at the bottom of Soda Canyon Road below the Atlas Peak Appellation. There the soil is tempered by cobblestone, ranging in size from thumb to cantaloupe. The cobbles keep the soil from being too fertile and provide superb drainage. The vineyard slopes gently to a center drainage running east to west. The vines were planted on a tight grid to provide excellent density for flavor concentration.

Planting continued over two years. The first release recurred in 2008 with the first commercial release - the 2005 Grassi Cabernet Sauvignon. Wine Spectator recognized Grassi and mentioned them among "hot new" Napa Valley Cabernet producers. 

Grassi expanded focus on producing Italian red varietals in tribute to their Italian heritage while also continuing to expand the Cabernet program. In 2010 Grassi released the first vintage of Ribolla Gialla, an aromatic Italian white wine inspired by their Italian heritage, a varietal they had enjoyed for many years before producing it themselves. They then expanded production further, once again inspired by their Italian roots, with the release of Mezzo Mezzo, a Sangiovese-Merlot blend, in 2013.

Today Mark and Jami’s daughter, Cassandra Grassi, is carrying on the family business to the next generation. 

Grassi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

As I wrote earlier, this is one of several vintages we hold from 2005 through 2011 of this label and is the first we have tasted. Normally as part of cellar management one will drink the older wines first as they're more likely to lose their drinking window. An exception is a lesser vintage that may have less aging ability than a more robust vintage. To that caution, I chose the 2011 to drink. It exceeded our expectations in every respect and showed no cause to worry about rushing to consume the rest from that vintage at ten years of age.

Being from a lesser lackluster vintage, Napa 2011, our expectations were modest but were exceeded as this showed bright vibrant expressive complex black fruits of currant, black berry and black cherry with notes of olive, spice, cigar box and hints of graphite, oak and vanilla. 

Wine Advocate gave this ratings of 89 to 92 points. Antonio Galloni gave it 94 points. I gave it 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1822405

http://grassiwines.com/

Twomey Napa Valley Merlot 2002

Twomey Napa Valley Merlot 2002

For dinner, Linda prepared a casserole, warm comfort food, so I wanted a hearty big wine as an accompaniment but something more approachable than a big Cabernet. I pulled from the cellar this Twomey Napa Valley Merlot, from the 2002 vintage, old enough to show its true character and potential, but hopefully, not over the hill so as to lost its eminence and luster. It proved to be the right choice and an ideal match.  

This is sourced from the Napa Valley Soda Canyon Vineyard, the same vineyard source as a bottle we had with dinner just the other evening, so I was anxious to try this as a comparison to that selection too.  

I still remember we first discovered this label at Restaurant Tallent in Bloomington, Indiana while visiting son Alec there at Indiana University a decade ago. We ordered it off the winelist with dinner at what was considered the best restaurant in Bloomington during that era. Chef/owner David Tallent amassed nine James Beard Award nominations over the business’ 12-year history before closing in 2015.

Twomey was founded in 1999 by legendary Ray Duncan, founder of the well-known known and highly regarded Silver Oak, and sons David, and Tim Duncan. David served as the managing partner and today is Chairman and CEO of both Silver Oak and Twomey having joined Silver Oak in 2002. The name Twomey, (pronounced two-me) is named after their grandmother Velma’s maiden name and is also the middle name of several family members.

During the early years, they produced only Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from the Soda Canyon Ranch Vineyard that they purchased in 1999, named for its location just off of Soda Canyon Road in south eastern Napa Valley. At the time, it was among the most expensive per vineyard acre transactions ever made in the Napa Valley. As prices for prime vineyard land escalated, in retrospect it was a very good investment.

The property was also planted to another Bordeaux varietal, Merlot. Daniel Baron, then Silver Oak winemaker, had worked at the prestigious Château Pétrus in Bordeaux and was very familiar with premium Merlot. Since Silver Oak was focused on and known solely for Cabernet Sauvignon, the decision to produce a Merlot based wine prompted the creation of an entire new label and brand, and eventually its own winery. The initial few vintages were crushed at Laird Family Estate (a custom crush winery north of the city of Napa).

Twomey Merlot is a single vineyard bottling sourced exclusively from the estate Soda Canyon Ranch, located in the benchlands of the Vaca Mountains of Napa Valley. Soda Canyon Ranch Vineyard is the exclusive vineyard source for Twomey Merlot.

Today the Soda Canyon property is planted to the five classic Bordeaux varieties including French Merlot clones selected for their low yields of small, intensely flavored berries. Situated on the first bench off the Napa Valley floor on the lower foothills, the terrain consists of well-drained volcanic soils full of rocks mixed with gravel. The warm days are moderated by cool breezes wafting up from San Pablo bay and morning fog, Merlot grapes ripen slowly here, developing rich black-fruit character and extraordinary complexity.

Twomey also produce a premium Pinot Noir, first released with this vintage in 2002, and one white wine, Sauvignon Blanc, first released in 2007, created from several vineyards in both Napa and Sonoma, including a vineyard next to their winery in Calistoga, and from the vineyard next to Silver Oak estate in Oakville.

In 2011, Twomey entered into collaboration with Château Pétrus legend Jean-Claude Berrouet on Soda Canyon Ranch Merlot, combining Jean-Claude’s expertise and the terrior of Napa Valley, resulting in a blend of Old World and New, California’s fruit-forward style with the subtlety and restraint of Bordeaux. 

Twomey Napa Valley Merlot 2002

This release was awarded 94 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, and 91 points by Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar.

This wine is typically close to 100% Merlot but invariably is blended with small amounts of other Bordeaux varieties (typically Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc or Petit Verdot). 

This vintage release was a blend of 99.4% Merlot and just a miniscule .6% of Cabernet Franc. 

The cork was dry and crumbled and broke in half on extraction (below). I hastily used the rabbit ears corkscrew which is best for recent releases and necessary for synthetic corks. I should've used an 'ahso' two pronged cork puller, which I usually do. I believe it would've extracted the cork intact, even in light of its deteriorated condition.

Dark garnet colored with a slight brownish tinge settling in suggesting this may be passing its apex, complex, concentrated, tight, structured blackberry and black currant and plum fruits with predominate notes of smoke, with tones of tobacco, black tea, herbs, cassis and hints of black pepper turning to a long firm tannin finish. 

RM 91 points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=69683 

https://twomey.com/

@Twomey

 

Dowdell Napa Valley Soda Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

Dowdell Napa Valley Soda Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

After our wine-dinner, we did another cellar dive and Dan pulled out this unique single label limited release Napa Cabernet that he picked up at auction. 

This label was marketed by Wilson Daniels a wine marketing firm who 'use education and brand-building to develop mutually rewarding, long-term relationships and strategic partnerships with luxury producers' to market and promote 'high profile fine wines featuring top terroir, that are benchmarks in their region'. 

One boutique merchant wrote in their promotion of this wine, 'We believe the project was initiated for a specific buyer in mind. That didn’t pan out and the wine wound up in limbo. Very little made to market. We just discovered it and we bought every single bottle we could get.' 

Essentially, someone had excess fruit, or wine, or as they said, proceeded on a wine production project that then needed marketing, promotion and distribution, developing a label and a brand. Since they were not owner producers, not producing 'estate' wines, these projects are often 'one-hit wonders', or less, if and when they don't live up to their hype or lofty expectations. They are fun and interesting experiments and experiences - just don't get attached to them as you may not see a follow on encore

This was 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from a single block of the former Stagecoach Vineyard in Napa, on the lower reaches of the Vaca Range above Silverado Trail, north of Atlas Peak, south of Howell Mountain. The Stagecoach Vineyard is one of the most storied legendary vineyards in Napa Valley.  Stagecoach fruit has sourced scores of premium and ultra premium bottlings by many top winemakers and labels over the years. The property was recently sold to E.J. Gallo which has caused much consternation through the Napa wine community and makes this independent bottling even more unique as a single vintage release appellation specific designated bottling, not likely to be repeated again? Cellartracker records indicate three vintages released - but only reviews for this 2014. With the only vintage reference on the rear label, who knows?

This label was crafted by notable winemaker Thomas Brown. According to The Terroirist Wine Journal, "Thomas Brown is the nation's hottest winemaker." He has received many 100-point scores from Robert Parker and James Laube. He was Food & Wine Magazine’ "Winemaker of the Year." He has lead or advised winemaking at Chiarello, Schrader, Outpost, Maybach, Revana, TOR, C. Mondavi, Jones Family, Harris Estate, Hestan, Seaver, Black Sears, Casa Piena and more.

I wrote about Thomas Brown and Chiarello in an earlier blogpost. 

This was aged for 19 months in 3 kinds of French Oak - Tonnellerie, Remond and Berthomieu.

This is packaged in an ultra-premium oversize, heavy glass bottle with a super deep punt. Unfortunately, the wine does not quite live up to the presentation of the packaging. 

Dark blackish inky purple, medium-full bodied, this wine is more defined by what it is not, rather than what it is, not overly dramatic or inspiring, not overblown, over-extracted or over-oaked, smooth, soft, balanced blackberry and black raspberry fruits with notes of cassis and tar, a touch of leather and spice turning to hints of aromatic floral notes and creme caramel on a smooth tannin laced lingering finish. 

RM 90 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2955120