Doffo Winery Temecula Wine Experience

Doffo Winery Temecula Wine Experience

Visiting Sister Jan and Bro-in-law Bill in SoCal, they took us to Temecula Valley to experience the wine region there. I was not prepared for the dramatic large modern winery estates there - how large they were, and how new they were. Nor was I prepared for the breadth and depth of wine offerings.  

Temecula Valley lies east from the Pacific coast, over the Santa Ana Mountains that follow the SoCal coast, in the foothills of the San Jacinto Mountains that are the wall framing the central valley desert, lying about equidistant between LA, Orange County, Palm Springs and San Diego. The wine region is  concentrated in one area with close to fifty wineries tucked into the valley with its distinctive terroir well suited for growing wine grapes.

At exit Highway 15 lies the old historic town of Temecula to the west, and head east, inland out Rancho California Road and one passes fifteen large modern wineries with another dozen off the side roads. Continue out to Glen Oak Road and loop back on De Portola Road and you'll pass another dozen plus estates.

We visited Doffo Winery and Vineyards, one of J&B's favorite producers of the area. Not only is it an extensive wine estate but its a vintage motorcycle museum as well. Sited at the far end of Rancho California Road, Doffo Winery claims to be the first true petite winery in Temecula Valley. 

Founded in 1997 by Marcelo Doffo, he draws on his experiences growing up as a youngster working on the family farm back in Argentina.

Marcelo immigrated to the United States in the mid-1970's and eventually opened an auto body shop, in Orange County, where he also collected and restored vintage motorcycles.

In 1997,  he visited the old country in the northern region of Turin, Italy and discovered that like every good Italian, his great uncle still made wine the old fashioned way, in his basement. Marcelo returned home anxious to try his hand at winemaking, creating his first batches in his garage. 

He continued his crafting wines and by 1997 he had expanded his knowledge and developed his skills as a winemaker, and was awarded the silver medal from the Orange County Wine Society. 

Based on this success, that same year he purchased fifteen acres of an old cattle ranch in rural Temecula, California, complete with an historic one-room schoolhouse. The schoolhouse reminded him of a similar place he attended as a small child in Argentina. Some Doffo labels feature a simple image of the old historic original school house that once sat on the original property, which has since been removed. Marcello attempted to restore it but was unable to gain cooperation and requisite permissions from the county authorities.

Marcelo prepared the soil and installed trellises and irrigation lines and planted his first vines of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah with a small percentage of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. He released his first vintage wine four years later, and called it “Mistura.”  

While establishing Doffo Winery, Marcelo's MotoDoffo Vintage Motorcycle Collection grew to nearly 200 motorcycles and scooters from around the world. He built amongst the vineyards the MotoDoffo Barrel Room on the winery grounds to house his motorcycle collection. 

Over the ensuring years Marcello was joined by son Damian, and his daughters Brigitte Doffo-Cartaya and Samantha in planting with other varietals and establishing a hospitality center for marketing, promotions and special events.

Marcelo adheres to the philosophy that good wine making begins in the vineyard. From hand-planting each vine to the meticulous viticulture tending the vines, Marcelo, his son Damian, and their crew take great care to produce the best fruit achievable on their estate. 

Doffo Winery produces small batches of wine in comparison to many other wineries in Temecula Valley, and the attention to detail that this affords results in intensely rich fruit and bold, complex wines.

Damian grew up working the farm and vineyards. In the early days making wine in the backyard, Damian helped out by washing bottles for 10 cents apiece. Working closely alongside his father, he eventually developed into a promising winemaker, developing a sophisticated palate in his years as Marcelo’s assistant winemaker. With his father’s teaching, his knowledge expanded to include all aspects of owning and managing a winery and vineyard. After graduating from Cal Poly Pomona, and an initial career in corporate sales, Damian returned to the winery as General Manager. 

Today, in addition managing Doffo, Damian sits on the Temecula Valley Winegrower’s Association Board of Directors and helps guide this coalition of winemakers.

As the winery has grown, they have established an exceptional visitor experience. Marcelo’s daughter, Brigitte Doffo-Cartaya, serves as Tasting Room Director, managing the wine tasting experience. Marcelo’s daughter, Samantha, serves as Events Coordinator and has turned Doffo Winery into a  destination in Temecula Valley, hosting weddings and other private events.

Touring the vineyards, we had the privilege meeting Marcello who was working in his automotive workshop where he spends his time these days, having turned the winery and vineyards business operations over to the next generation.   

The estate tours are often given directly by family members, or specific designated members of the staff. Our afternoon was hosted by Sal, an almost-family member who was deeply knowledgeable of the property, history, viticulture and winemaking practices. He went to great effort to describe some of the intricacies of the viticulture methods of the property. 

Sal took us on an extensive tour of the property estate and every vineyard describing the vines, varietals, and techniques employed in grooming, irrigating and managing.  

Our estate tour was then followed by a tour of the barrel room, storage facility and then a wine tasting back at the hospitality center. 

We toured the Barrel Room Motorcycle Museum with many of the two hundred vintage motorcycles in the collection. 

The Doffo wine-tasting offers several tasting flights from their basic portfolio of Doffo wines, their MotoDoffo line, their Latest Releases to their Reserve and Library Wines, as well as the complete list of wines by the glass or by the bottle. 

We tasted their Reserve and Library flight of premium wines served with their charcuterie and cheese plate with some fresh fruits. Their Library and Private Reserve wines are packaged in premium heavy glass bottles with painted labels. 

Our tasting flight:

• Doffo Vineyards "Paulina" Brut Sparkling Wine 
• Doffo "Concreto" Temecula Valley Malbec 2015
• Doffo Private Reserve Temecula Valley Petite Sirah 2018
  
• Doffo Private Reserve Temecula Valley Syrah 2016
• Doffo Private Reserve Temecula Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 
• Doffo Private Reserve Temecula Valley "Mistura" 2018 
  

Doffo Vineyards "Paulina" Brut Sparkling Wine 

Winemaker Notes: "Brut made from a Chardonnay with just a touch of Muscat. Perfect for a hot day! The Paulina Sparkling was named after Marcelo's mom. Salute Nona!!"

Straw colored, medium bodied, light refreshing spritz with notes of citrus, stone fruit and hints of peach.

RM 88 points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2249772

These wines generally were complex, with concentrated forward round fruits. Doffo produces these wines with meticulous care and attention to detail in the vineyards and in the production and aging of the wine. They are testament to the importance of terroir and the distinctive suitability of a site and how that place manifests itself in the fruit, and the ultimate blend of the wine.

In summary, these wines exceeded my expectations for each label. I was not expecting Bordeaux and Rhone varietals. However, they defy the ultra-premium price point they are asking - from $95 to $150 for these Private Reserve labels. I felt they lacked the finesse, polish, balance and elegance of wines commanding these premium prices. Perhaps their entry level and mid-tier estate wines provide better QPR's (Quality-Price-Ratios). We did not find one standout favorite inspiring label.

Doffo "Concreto" Temecula Valley Malbec 2015

Winemaker Notes: "Following in the footsteps of our wildly popular Viognier and our luxurious Concreto Cabernet Sauvignon, we are proud to present our first-ever concrete-fermented Malbec!'

 

"Using only the finest fruit from our Malbec vineyards, primary fermentation takes place in our egg-shaped concrete tank. The natural insulation of the concrete stabilizes the temperature and limits the speed of fermentation, which makes for great extraction of the aromas. The fruit is then pressed and only the free run (the wine) undergoes secondary fermentation in our Italian Garbellotto cask, where it is allowed to age and develop for 60 months.' 

 

"The result is a refined and balanced Malbec worthy of opening for special occasions or laid down to continue maturing in the bottle for years to come. Only 98 cases produced."

Barrel: Concrete fermented and aged 20 months in 1st use medium toast Garbellotto Italian Cask 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4067074

Doffo Private Reserve Temecula Valley "Mistura" 2018

Winemaker Notes: "The 2019 vintage of our original field blend takes on more of a bordeaux style with its low alcohol percentage and subtle oak profile. Fragrances of plum, ripe strawberries and rose petals give way to caramel, cacao and vanilla, and its velvety mouthfeel and balanced acidity linger on the palate."

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3883591

 

 

 

 

 

Doffo Private Reserve Temecula Valley Petite Sirah 2018

 

Winemaker Notes: "A new entry to Doffo's portfolio of reserve wines, the 2018 Petite Sirah Private Reserve immediately shows off the varietal's inky, purple color in the glass. An elegant array of aromas including prunes, blueberries, and cherries give way to spicier notes of black pepper, dark chocolate and cloves. This wine is round and balanced on the palate and leaves a pleasantly lingering finish."

Composition: 100% Petite Sirah

Barrel: Aged 24 months in 100% French oak

 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4282784

 

 

Doffo Private Reserve Temecula Valley Syrah 2016

 

Winemaker Notes: "Doffo's Syrah Private Reserve makes a comeback with the 2016 vintage, which promises to satisfy even the most discerning Syrah lovers. Straight away the maturity of the wine is evident by the orange rim set against the deep ruby red backdrop.' 

 

"Fruit-forward aromas of cherries, ripe blackberries and strawberry jam are balanced by notes of black olives, licorice and vanilla, with just a hint of smoke that is characteristic of the varietal. This full-bodied wine is balanced, round and smooth on entry, with a fine acidity and a lingering finish."

Composition: 100% Syrah

Barrel: Aged 48 months in 100% 1st use American oak

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4297000

Doffo Private Reserve Temecula Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 

Winemaker Notes: "Using only the best Cabernet Sauvignon fruit from our vineyards, the 2018 Private Reserve is deep ruby red in color and is purely delightful on the nose. Aromas of strawberries, bell pepper, and mint give way to dark chocolate, black currant and plum.' 

 

"Making a strong entrance onto the palate, this elegant wine boasts a full mouthfeel with firm tannins and a long finish with a hint of red berries."

Barrel: Aged 20 months in 40% 1st use American oak, 37% 1st use French oak, and 23% 2nd use American oak

Composition: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon

 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3760936

https://doffowines.com/

https://twitter.com/DoffoWines

Hemingways Bistro wine dinner

Hemingways Bistro Oak Park wine dinner with Cuvée de mon Aïeul, Lost Chapters Big Reds

For a special post holiday outing for our family members in from out of town, I arranged to conduct a private tour of the Frank Lloyd Wright Home and Studio in Oak Park, where I am a docent interpreter, followed by a walking tour of the historic neighborhood featuring some of FLW's seminal works in the Prairie style architecture. 

Afterwards, we dined at Hemingway's Bistro, one of our favorite intimate dining sites in the nearby Earnest Hemingway historic neighborhood featuring Chef Ala who brings 25 years experience to Oak Park. A certified Executive Chef with the American Culinary Federation, he has competed in numerous culinary salons around the world. In 1999, Ala was the opening Executive Chef of the Historic Allerton Hotel in Chicago after it's 80 million dollar renovation. Ala has also ran Le Meriden Hotel Restaurant and the historic legendary Chez Paul in Chicago. (Many will recall Chez Paul from it's famous scenes as the restaurant in two iconic Chicago movies, the Blues Brother (1980_and then in Ferris Bueller's Day Off (1986)).

Previously, Ala was the Chef of The Colonnade Hotel in Boston and Brasserie Jo, he was at the Boca Raton Resort and Club in Florida, and spent seven years in the Caribbean working at resorts in Puerto Rico, the U.S. and British Virgin Islands.

Hemmingway's offers classic French dishes with fresh Midwest ingredients; Beef Wellington, Steak Frites, and sumptuous Souffles are popular menu offerings, and daily specials reflect the chef's love for fresh seafood, using mostly East-coast seafood flown in from Boston daily.

 We took BYOB from our cellar, a special top rated bottle of Southern Rhone Châteauneuf-du-Pape for our authentic Provencal cuisine dinner. 

Pierre Usseglio 'Cuvée de mon Aïeul' Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2001

I recall acquiring this bottle on release two decades ago while on a business trip to the Twin Cities and stopping in Haskell's wine shop. 

This release was awarded 99 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, who wrote in his review, "borderline perfection, (I seriously considered adding a point here) and a monumental Châteauneuf-du-Pape that is drinking at point." 

It was rated 93 points by Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar and Wine Spectator. 

The 2001 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee de Mon Aieul is 85% Grenache and equal parts Syrah, Mourvedre, and Cinsault with a prodigious 15.8% alcohol level.

The sources for Mon Aieul are three vineyard parcels with vines averaging between 75 and 87 years of age.

Dark ruby colored, full bodied, deep rich intense complex concentrated structured briary ripe black currant, blackberry fruits accented by flavors of fig, stewed plum, spice box, olive tapenade, tobacco, black tea, game, tar and mushrooms with hints of cedar turning to firm tannins on the tangy acidic finish. 

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=6582

With the lady's dinner entrees (each ordered the daily special, halibut in beurre blanc sauce), they ordered several white wines from the broad B-T-G (By-the-Glass) selectiosn:

Chardonnay, Russian River, Lake Sonoma "18"
Viognier, Domaine Gassier "19"

Bro-in-law Bill and I ordered this big Petite Sirah from the winelist to accompany his New York Steak au Poivre and my Duck A L'Orange with braised cabbage, pommes dauphine, grand marnier sauce (I substituted the pommes au gratin - shown right).

J. McClelland Lost Chapters Petite Sirah 2017

Hemingway's Bistro has a carefully crafted winelist with selections to match the menu, many limited releases or distinctive artful labels.

This interesting label is from J. McClelland Cellars, founded in 2008 in honor of iconic California winemaker, trusted advisor and wine industry personality and long time friend of the principles, John McClelland, in honor of his six decades of service to the industry, and ten years of collaboration by founders winery Director and Winemaker Paul Scotto and viticulturist Winemaker Mark Smith.

Throughout McClelland's 60-year wine industry career he was widely recognized as an iconic figure in California wine innovation in winemaking, vineyard management, national sales, marketing and brand development. He served as Chairman of the California Wine Institute and held leadership positions in the Wine Growers Association, Association of Wine Educators and was named a Supreme Knight in Brotherhood of the Knights of the Vine. He held numerous senior positions at producers Almaden, Geyser Peak and Alderbrook. John passed away in December, 2018.

Scotto family's acquired the J. McClelland Cellars winery in the Valley's eastern hills to produce their wines.

In 2014 the team was joined by renowned and frequently awarded winemaker Mitch Cosentino, who brought many years of Napa Valley knowledge, experience and vineyard contacts to the project.

The Scotto family's winemaking heritage dates back to 1883 when Salvatore Dominic Scotto began making wine at their home on the Island of Ischia off the coast of Italy. Salvatore passed on the winemaking tradition to his son Dominic who migrated to Brooklyn, NY in 1903. He followed the Scotto family tradition by passing on his winemaking skills to his sons, who began selling five gallon crocks from the family's horse-drawn wagon. In 1946, they opened D. Scotto Wines retail store in downtown Brooklyn that sold quality wines from around the world.

Anthony Sr. sold his father's homemade wine in one gallon jugs from pushcarts and later, with his older brother Sal, created Villa Armando one of the country's oldest brands. The family moved to California in 1963.

Anthony II entered the business in 1975 and eventually became a winemaker, winery owner, exporter and consultant, passing his skills and experience to the 5th generation, Anthony III, Natalie, Paul and Michael, who together carry on the family business into the sixth generation continuing to build strong relationships with both trade and consumers while expanding distribution throughout the U.S. and eleven export markets.

In 2014, notable winemaker Mitch Cosentino joined the Scotto family and John McClelland as Consulting Winemaker for the launch of J. McClelland Cellars. Mitch's four decade winemaking career dates back to his home town Modesto 1980 and then Napa Valley since 1990 where he founded Cosentino Winery in Yountville and established pureCru Napa Valley. Mitch has garnered almost 2000 awards and medals including the prestigious "Andre Tchelistcheff Winemaker of the Year" award in 2003 and numerous awards for "Best Wine" and "Best Cabernet" of the year in multiple vintages and competitions. Mitch founded the Meritage Association (now known as the Meritage Alliance) in 1988 and produced the first American wine bottled with that designation.

The Lost Chapters brand was born in 2017, produced from varietal fruits and craft blends for the Scotto Family wine portfolio, sourced from barrel lots from select and limited "lots from each vintage that may not be seen again in future vintages". 

The Lost Chapters brand has produced award winning single or limited multiple vintage labels in Cabernet Sauvigon, Chardonnay, Sangiovese, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Meritage, and this Petite Sirah. 

The producer website writes: "When one release sells out, another will appear offering its own allure and charm. The Lost Chapters is Paul's opportunity to break away from the norm in winemaking and provide the opportunity to continue reading "the book" with each release standing on its own while complementing the whole." As such, Lost Chapters, building on the book metaphor, even applies a "volume" number in roman numeral to each label vintage release.

Hence, by design, these are invariably 'one hit wonders', specially selected from various vineyard sources in each vintage, not necessarily to be replicated, certainly not so over extended time. Fortuitous finds as they might be, they are not ones to collect for comparison tastings over vertical vintages, but rather to be relished and enjoyed. 

J. McClelland Cellars Lost Chapters Volume XIX Petite Sirah 2017

100% Napa County Petite Sirah, aged 24 months in French Oak barrels, 140 cases were produced. 

Winemaker notes: Deep purple-ruby natural color abounds. River stone minerality, black pepper, currants and black rose notes fill the aromatic profile. Flavors cross a broad spectrum of fruits: dense currants blackberries, black plums with rhubarb and peppercorns, well centered and big structured yet with a surprising suppleness on the mid-palate. It finishes long, spicy and firm with some ripe tannins.

Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, complex concentrated ripe blackberry, black currant and plum fruits with notes of black pepper, spice and earthy tobacco with full firm tannins on the tangy lengthy finish. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4168611

https://www.jmcclellandcellars.com/the-lost-chapters

https://hemmingwaysbistro.com/

https://www.flwright.org/ 

Once & Future Napa Palisades Vineyard Petite Sirah

Once & Future Wine Napa Valley Palisades Vineyard Petite Sirah for pizza and hearty cheeses 

I wrote in detail about this wine a month ago (almost to the day) when I procured this wine, just for an occasion as tonight, simple casual sipping but big and bold and robust on Saturday night on the deck with hearty cheeses and some grilled pizza. 

Today I picked up the next latest release vintage of this label so drinking this tonight, we 'cycled' our cellar holdings, replacing this bottle with the next subsequent release.

As I wrote at the time, "I found this at Binny's and was intrigued to try it. Only 201 cases were made so its not surprising I had never seen or heard of the label before. Upon further research, they're known for producing Zinfandel. The premium packaging with the heavy bottle with its deep punt was impressive and we love Petite Sirah, a cousin of Sirah/Shiraz, an under represented varietal in Napa Valley, so, I took a chance and bought all six bottles in the store.'

This was ideal for casual sipping on the deck with artisan cheeses and fresh hot-house Flavor-Bomb tomatoes.

Winemaker Joel Peterson says, "It's my opinion Napa would be famous for Petite Sirah if it weren't for Cabernet Sauvignon."

According to the Once & Future Website, "Up until the 1960s, Petite Sirah was the most widely planted grape variety in Napa Valley. The few examples show that grown in the right places it does very well producing bright expressive full bodied wines that can be even darker and spicier than Zinfandel, that other “California grape” from Europe. Those that produce the varietal offer a distinctive and interesting choice (not to mention, often with better QPR - quality price ratio) over the leading Napa grape varietal, Cabernet Sauvignon.'

Once & Future Wine Napa Valley Palisades Vineyard Petite Sirah 2017

This label was awarded 92+ Points by Erin Brooks of The Wine Advocate. The 2018 Palisades Vineyard Petite Sirah Napa Valley was awarded 96 pts by Vinous Antonio Galloni. The only Cellartracker reviewer gave it 93 points. 

This was aged in 100% French Oak, 30% new barrels.

Totally consistent with that earlier tasting. This was opaque dark inky purple-black in color. Initially it was closed and tight but opened up after 30 to 45 minutes to full-bodied, firm, tightly wound black and blue fruits, floral notes with cassis, black tea, vanilla, with hints of black pepper and oak with a long gripping tannins on a moderate but lingering finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3248253

https://www.onceandfuturewine.com/

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/06/once-future-napa-valley-petit-sirah-2017.html 

 

Venge Vineyard "Scout's Honor" Napa Valley Red Blend 2017

Sis-in-law Pat in town for Linda's birthday and some winter games we opened this big red fruit filled sipper with snacks for casual sipping. 

We've been enjoying Nils and Kirk Venge' wines since the early 1990's when Nils was featured by Wine Spectator Magazine in a 1994 article on up and coming wine producers. 

One of the labels of the Venge portfolio is Scout's Honor named for the family Labrador Retriever. I remember Scout walking the rows in the vineyards with Nils during a visit to the Rutherford Penny Lane estate back in the nineties (shown right from our 2002 visit).

Scout's Honor is based on a tradition of producing a full bodied, delicious and enjoyable red wine that can be opened and enjoyed immediately upon release however when cellared correctly it will age for 5 to 8 years.

Scout's Honor starts as a unique proprietary red blend anchored by a base of old-vine Zinfandel and builds upon that with dry-farmed Petite Sirah, old-vine Charbono, and finish with mountain vineyard Syrah.  

The blend for 2017 is 63% Zinfandel, 16% Charbono, 12% Petite Sirah and 9% Syrah.

We have been collecting this label since the earliest releases in the mid-nineties and hold a half dozen vintages. We typically keep a half dozen vintages of this label on hand for easy, enjoyable smooth sipping with everyday fare, great with BBQ, burgers, pizza to hearty cheese, beef, fruits and chocolates. Normally we would drink from the oldest vintage as part of cellar management but I wanted to try this recent release.  

Nil's has stepped down into retirement and winemaker and production duties are now with son Kirk who has raised the bar taking this label to new heights in recent years, earning 93 or 94 points from Wine Advocate for vintages 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2016.  Kirk says, this 2017 is “perhaps our finest effort to date.” It’s 100% Napa fruit, a blend of 63% Zinfandel, 16% Charbono, 12% Petite Sirah, and 9% Syrah from mostly 60-100+ year-old vines. 

Winemaker Kirk's tasting notes for this release: “The result is an unpretentious red wine that is ready to enjoy upon re-lease. This vintage has a gorgeous, concentrated assemblage of sweet honeysuckle, crushed blue herbs, aromas of violets, anise, and a touch of vanillin. On the palate is pure richness from the old-vine Zinfandel with loads of super ripe black fruits and currants, pepper spice, and an enveloping masculinity of char and tannins from the Syrah, Charbono and Petite Sirah. A seamless balance and mouth coating deliciousness are found throughout the palate, with an extra-long finish that is quite pleasing to the senses. 2017 Scout’s Honor is certainly a generous mouthful of red wine that we recommend be opened and enjoyed immediately upon release. Cellared correctly it will age for 5 to 8 years.”  

"We start with a base of old-vine Zinfandel from our Signal Fire Vineyard in Calistoga (where some of those vines have been producing for over 100 years!) and build upon that with dry-farmed Petite Sirah, old-vine Charbono, and finish with mountain-vineyard Syrah from the Stagecoach Vineyard. The result is an unpretentious red wine that will satisfy time and time again. Not just a fan-favorite, this wine honors our late winery dog, Scout." 

Wine buddy Andy and I visited Kirk and Nils up at the Calistoga estate and the Signal Fire Vineyard back in 2002 (shown right). 

From a branding perspective, this may be the last year you see this packaging with a paper label as the 2018 release went to a more upscale painted on glass bottle label marking, moving to a more premium positioning for this label. It remains to be seen what happens to the price point. It is already priced at the high end of the Zinfandel range, but well worth it with its sophistication and complexity and quality of the blend.

Bordering on what one might call a 'fruit-bomb"! Garnet-purple colored, full bodied, dense sweet ripe black cherry and raspberry and currant fruits with notes of spice, hints of cassis and pepper and vanilla with a long extracted finish. 

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3209032

http://www.vengevineyards.com/

@VengeVineyards 

 

Biale Royal Punishers Napa Valley Petite Sirah 2016

Robert Biale Royal Punishers Napa Valley Petite Sirah 2016

This thread of a mini vertical tasting continues. It started a couple weeks ago when we opened from our cellar the 2013 vintage of this unique varietal, Napa Valley Petite Sirah, from a traditional producer of Napa Valley Zinfandels, Robert Biale.

That bottle exceeded my expectations for a big fruit forward sipper. (It got 95 points from  Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and 92 points from Wine Spectator noting it as "Highly Recommended").

As I wrote earlier, we enjoyed that bottle so much with its rich, concentrated full bodied flavorful fruit, a style we love, I sought to replace it. Naturally, the 2013 release was no longer available but I was able to acquire several bottles of the newer 2016 vintage at Binny's Beverage Depot, the Chicagoland wine superstore. For reference, Binny's sells this label for $42. The producer's 'published' release price is $49.

Following that tasting and a subsequent tasting of the 2018 release, we dined out at Angelis Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria and I took BYOB the 2016 release to share and compare with the recent tastings of the '13 and '18 vintages. 

The dinner was for a special occasion, for our dear long-time friends Mark and Jane who sold their home and are moving from Illinois to Texas. For their last night here we took them to dinner at Angelis. So many of our close friends have left Chicagoland for warmer weather and improved living environments in red states - Florida, South and North Carolina, Tennessee and now, Texas. It’s sad and tragic to see the decline of our home state as it succumbs to the burdens of decades of fiscal mismanagement, corruption, patronage and our politicians' selfishness and foolishness. No wonder the common saying is, 'the best view of Illinois is in the rear view mirror' as people exit the state in droves, the largest net loss of any state. 

It’s heartbreaking and depressing to watch our excessive tax dollars fund debt service rather than regular traditional government and social services. So many have become beholden to the entitlement economy, it’s become almost pervasive, despite the fact it is unsustainable. 

Ironically, today’s Chicago Tribune headliner was the Indictments of the chief aide to our long time Illinois Speaker of the House leader, a former COMED CEO, and a couple other luminaries for bribery and corruption. The legendary long time party chairmen fell through the cracks again and remains elusive, however, his grip on the reigns of power is slipping away. But after decades of abuse, the damage is done. 

Forgive me, so much for political hand wringing and commiserating, we wish our departing friends well in their new home state.

For our dinner, we took BYOB from our cellar this recent wine purchase that we picked up to try as we consider buying more. Several weeks ago we drank from our cellar the 2013 vintage release of this label. When I went to replace it, the 2018 release was available. I then found several bottles of this 2016. They had a few remaining so I brought this to taste, and to compare with the other two recent vintages tasted.

I wrote last week about Robert Biale Vineyards in Napa Valley and their work with Zinfandel and Petite Sirah sourced from their 25 acres of vineyards in Napa Valley where it is perfectly suited to the moderate and dry growing season. The resulting dark, full, deep, inky and powerful, Petite Sirah has become a favorite grape among winemakers looking to pump up underpowered wines in need of deep fruit, color, and structure. As a standalone varietal, this was almost too much for our moderate pastas, veal, salmon and ahi tuna dinner entrees, delightful none-the-less.

Robert Biale Royal Punishers Napa Valley Petite Sirah 2016

The Robert Biale Royal Punishers Petite Sirah is sourced from Carpy-Connolly Ranch in Rutherford. There the well-drained gravel and sandy loam soils, and warm daytime temperatures are ideally suited for ripening Petite Sirah grapes.

This 2016 was more like the big bold 2013 vintage than the 2018 we tasted the other evening. 

This was awarded 92 points by Wine Spectator, 91 points by James Suckling and Wine Enthusiast, and 90 points by critic/pundit Jeb Dunnuck.

This 2016 Petite Sirah Royal Punishers spent 17 months in 30% new barrels.

This is dark inky purple colored, full bodied, big, bold, concentrated with moderate firm structure, the black berry and black raspberry fruits are overtaken by notes of camphor or what Wine Enthusiast noted as 'a touch of heat', on opening that ‘burn off’ after a period of breathing and settling. Accented by notes of graphite and spice, hints of pepper emerged on the firm but approachable tannin laced lingering finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2912156

https://biale.com/

https://twitter.com/BialeVineyards

 

Biale Royal Punishers Napa Valley Petite Sirah 2018

Biale Royal Punishers Napa Valley Petite Sirah 2018

 A couple weeks ago we opened this unique varietal Napa Valley Petite Sirah from a traditional producer of Napa Valley Zinfandels, Robert Biale.

That bottle exceeded my expectations for a big fruit forward sipper. (It got 95 points from  Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and 92 points from Wine Spectator noting it as "Highly Recommended").

We enjoyed that bottle so much with its rich, concentrated full bodied flavorful fruit, a style we love, I sought to replace it. Naturally, the 2013 release was no longer available but I was able to acquire several bottles of the 2016 vintage, and a few of the 2018. 

Binny's Beverage Depot, the Chicagoland wine superstore indicated on-line that it had a several bottles of the 2016, but not at a convenient location. I called a couple local independent merchants about obtaining a few bottles and ended up placing a special order. When they arrived they turned out to be the 2018 vintage. Several days later I was at a Binny's location that had the 2016 in stock and I obtained a few more.

As I wrote at the time, Robert Biale Vineyards in Napa Valley dates back to the 1930s when the Biale family grew Zinfandel grapes and other produce, selling the grapes to local wineries, saving some for their own wine production. During prohibition, to obfuscate their banned trade selling bottles of illicit homemade Zinfandel, they would refer to their dark fruit filled wines as "Black Chickens" over the party line phone service.

Biale Winery was formally founded in 1991 when Aldo Biale and his son Robert formed a partnership with winemaker Al Perry and wine salesman Dave Pramuk. Their initial product was Zinfandel, eventually adding Petite Sirah grown on their 25 acres in Napa Valley.  

Despite its popularity, the Petite Sirah grape is somewhat rare with less than 10,000 acres planted worldwide, with the bulk of that in California. In France, the grape is referred to as Durif. 

Not to be confused with Syrah, Petite Sirah is a cross of the two grape varietals Syrah and Peloursin.  Robert Biale’s Royal Punishers got its name from scrambling the letters of both parent grapes. The resulting wine is darker and fuller, deep, inky and powerful, appropriately named, it deserves its reputation as one of Napa Valley’s top Petite Sirahs.

According to Biale, Petite Sirah was the most commonly planted grape in Napa Valley for nearly a century and now there is a resurgence and new appreciation for this historic varietal. Known for its dark color, firm structure, and deep blue and black fruit flavors, it is perfectly suited to Napa Valley’s moderate and dry growing season. Petite Sirah was also a favorite grape among winemakers looking to pump up underpowered wines in need of deep fruit, color, and structure. Its natural versatility made it a great counterpart to all red varieties including Zinfandel, and Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Biale Royal Punishers Napa Valley Petit Sirah 2018

With the kids in from out of state for the weekend, we opened this Big Red for late night adventurous sipping.  

Robert Biale sources this Royal Punishers Petite Sirah from Carpy-Connolly Ranch in Rutherford. There the well-drained gravel and sandy loam soils, and warm daytime temperatures are ideally suited for ripening Petite Sirah grapes.

Winemaker's notes for this release, "The 2018 Royal Punishers has a deep, blackish purple color with aromas of currants, blueberry, quince, violets, figs, molasses and graphite. The entry is weighty with a broad mid-palate structure which has layers of ripe, black fruit flavors. The oak profile is balanced and the tannins are medium grained which hold the fruit profile and carry a long, lingering finish."

While not as big and powerful as the 2013, this was bold and concentrated with rich extracted inky purple colored fruit, black raspberry, black currants, black tea and tobacco notes with a moderate tannin laced finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3726704

https://biale.com/

 https://twitter.com/BialeVineyards

 

Chiarello Roux Old Vine Petite Sirah Baked Brie - Chocolate Rapberry Crust

Chiarello Family Vineyards Roux Old Vine Petite Sirah 2003 with Baked Brie and Chocolate Raspberry Crust

Tonight Linda prepared an incredible baked brie and a crusted chocolate and raspberry along with a cheese plate. To complement the selection, I pulled a unique imaginative hearty bold red wine, Chiarello Petit Sirah.

This label is from Chiarello Family Vineyards, owned by Michael Chiarello, who is better known for his role as a Napa Valley chef, Emmy-winning TV personality, author, and founder of NapaStyle. From his Chiarello Family Vineyards, he produces five estate grown wines from the 20-acres of vineyards that surround his home in St Helena in Central Napa Valley. The property contains vines going back nearly a century.

To realize the potential of the property sourced fruit, Chiarello enlisted one of the top "old vine" winemakers in Napa Valley, Thomas Brown, named 2010 "Winemaker of the Year," by Food & Wine Magazine.

Brown has been recognized as a master at creating rich, dynamic wines from the ultra-ripe fruit of older vines. From those old vines they craft award winning Zinfandel and Petit Sirah based wines.

Not to be confused with Syrah, Petite Sirah is a cross of Syrah and another grape varietal, Peloursin. Despite its popularity, this grape is quite rare with less than 10,000 acres planted worldwide, mostly in California.

Petit Sirah was long thought to be related to an obscure French grape called Durif. After DNA studies by Dr. Carole Meredith, a Napa Winery wine producer at Lagier Meredith on Mt Veeder. Carole was educated as a geneticist at the University of California at Davis and went on to work in the wine business at Mondavi. She specializes in growing Syrah varietal based wines at the Lagier Meredith estate high atop Mount Veeder. We met Carole when we visited Lagier Meredith during our Napa Valley, Mt Veeder Wine Experience back in 2011.

The hertiage of Durif goes back to France where it was an offspring of syrah, the noble grape of Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie, and the lesser-known varietal called peloursin.

Petite Sirah was often mistaken for the more popular varietal Zinfandel to be. In the early days of California winemaking, much of the early labels sold as Burgundy or Chianti were often actually sourced from a grape whose name never appeared on the label, the sturdy, blue-collar petite sirah.

 Today, Petit Sirah is often added to Zinfandel wines for backbone and deep color, but more and more it is produced standalone. Petite Sirah is increasing found in the stores, and it often commands a higher price than what might be considered a more pedestrian Zinfandel which may have a broader following. Because Petit Sirah may be the more nuanced and complex of the two, it has gained notoriety and captured a wide following and is becoming increasingly popular. Subsequent more recent releases of this label have received enviable ratings and scores and command prices above $50.

The Chiarello Family Vineyards 2008 Roux Old Vine Petite Sirah (St. Helena) A was awarded 93 points and was noted as "a beautiful wine, just what a Napa Petite Sirah should be: Dark, dry, tannic and muscular, showing leathery, meaty flavors, with hints of blackberries, chocolate and violets, and a sprinkling of pepper," by a leading critic.

Ironically, our selection tonight is the second wine in a row that we pulled from our cellar to drink that was crafted by winemaker Thomas Brown, following the Schrader Double Diamond Mayacamas Range Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon that we drank Sunday night.

Thomas Brown has become one of the most sought-after consulting winemakers in Napa Valley. Brown moved to Napa in 1996 and went to work for All Seasons Wine Shop in Calistoga. There he met Ehren Jordan, winemaker for Turley Wine Cellars. He joined Jordan in 1997 helping in the cellar and learned the craft.

After three years, Brown ventured out on his own, beginning with clients he inherited from Jordan, Outpost where he produced Howell Mountain Zinfandel, and Chiarello where he produced this Roux Old Vine Petit Sirah,  He went on to produce Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for Nicholson Ranch and the Cabernet Sauvignon we drank Sunday night from Schrader, and others for Tamber Bey and Frank Family. Brown went on to produce his own Pinot Noir and became managing partner of Ridgetop Partners, a project that in 2001 purchased 40 acres on the Sonoma coast near Annapolis and planted 14 acres of Pinot Noir.

Chiarello Family Vineyards Roux Old Vine Petite Sirah 2003

Interesting heavy weight bottle with its painted label rather than paper label affixed to the bottle, properties found in more expensive premium labels.

Consistent with our last tasting notes for this label, "This was dark inky black/purple colored, big full bodied, rich, concentrated but nicely balanced and polished blackberry and black cherry fruits with layers of mineral, licorice, Asian spices, hints of smokey creosote with nicely integrated oak on the lingering clinging tannin finish.'

"At fourteen years of age, this 2003 was drinking well and seemingly still at the apex of its drinking window, although certainly not likely to improve any with further aging."

Tonight this was still holding its own at seventeen years of age.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=146614

http://www.chiarellovineyards.com/

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/12/chiarello-family-vineyards-petite-sirah.html

Bogle Vineyards Phantom Zinfandel Blend 2009

Bogle Vineyards Phantom Zinfandel Blend 2009

For quiet Saturday evening at home after babysitting a grandson, we opened this bold red blend with fresh fruits and cheeses in front of a winter fire and movie.

This is the type of wine that should be held in every cellar for BBQ, pizza, pasta, hearty cheeses or casual but serious sipping. Not for the feint of heart, this is an interesting unique blend of old vine Zinfandel (52%) from Lodi, Petite Sirah (46%) from Clarksburg, with a small amount of Mourvèdre, all from the Central Valley of California.

According to the inscription on the cork (shown below), Bogle is Scottish for a 'friendly spirit, a phantom". 

Dark blackish garnet colored, full bodied, aromatic, concentrated forward chewy briary ripe blueberry and black raspberry fruits with tones of smoke and hints of vanilla, dark chocolate, graphite, spicy oak and cedar.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1288036

http://www.boglewinery.com/ 

Angles & Cowboys Sonoma County Proprietary Red 2013

Angles & Cowboys Sonoma County Proprietary Red 2013

Visiting Eric and Cathy for the night, Eric served this unique proprietary big red blend label from Sonoma County. Fan's of the wildly popular Prisoner red blend should love this big bold fruit forward easy drinking wine that is offered at half the price for a great high QPR label if you can find it.

This is a blend of Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah and Malbec, produced by Cannonball Wine Company, a collaboration of Yoav Gilat, Dennis Hill, and graphic designer Michael Schwab. The fruit is said to be sourced from some of Sonoma County's most prestigious growers.

This multi-varietal red blend represents the bold style and characteristics of each of the varietals in the blend - rich concentrated sweet Zinfandel, structured Cabernet Sauvignon, tone and notes of structure, color and bold flavors of Petite Sirah and Malbec. It all comes together in a nicely crafted blend that is harmonious and balanced, not the awkward cacaphony of flavors that often exists in lower price multi-variety red blends. This big expressive easy drinking sipper begs for BBQ, rich pasta, pizza or hearty bold cheeses.

Dark inky garnet purple colored, full bodied, rich concentrated chewy brambly blackberry and black raspberry fruits accented by a layer of mocha dark chocolate with tones of pepper and spices and a hint of cedar on a long tongue coated full finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2457513

http://www.angelsandcowboyswines.com/ 

Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 95 Super Cuvee Cabernet Petit Sirah 2013

Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 95 Super Cuvee Cabernet Petit Sirah 2013

I have written often in these pages about the negociant practice and Ninety Plus Cellars. When they get it right, they offer great wines of outstanding value. This unique blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah appears to be such a find. Babysitting for the grandkids offered the opportunity to sample this from son Ryan's cellar, a selection he picked up earlier in the day at Vin Chicago, who featured this in their weekly tasting. It was immediately apparent this is one of those rare high QPR exciting quality wines. 

According to Cellartracker, this is the third release of this wine under this label. We've reported that the Lot 95 designation refers to the source supplier of this wine to the negociant 90+ Cellars. This ranks up there with 90+ Lot 101 that we enjoyed so much that I wrote about in several blogposts. 

Also, this is an indication of the quality of the 2013 Napa Valley Cabernets which are appearing in the marketplace and are presenting themselves as great wines at great values. 

According to the supplier, this offbeat blend comes from a small winery whose wines regularly achieve scores in the mid-90s. They were able to obtain several barrels from what they call 'this superstar producer'. They cite the reference 'source price', the applicable price of the original Cuvée under its original brand and label from the producer at $75. In any event its a great find at their release price of $30. Vin Chicago is offering it at $24. I'll be heading over to pick up a case. Good news that the label indicates 600 cases being available.

90+ Cellars "Lot 95 - Super Cuvee" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon/Petite Sirah 2013

Dark inky purple colored, full bodied, the concentrated blackberry, black currant and plum fruits are accented with a layer of expresso and tar, with hints of vanilla, cedar and anise. Supplier notes sum it well citing, "firm and intense yet well rounded with soft edges and a lively dose of black cherry fruit that unfolds into a smooth, velvety finish".


RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2185244

Ghost Pines Red Blend 2011 - the 'un-terroir' wine

Ghost Pines Red Blend 2011 - the 'un-terroir' wine

This is an eclectic blend from a variety of grapes from a diversity of locations across California. By design, the philosophy for Ghost Pine's wines is to allow the winemaker to "enjoy (s) the freedom to choose the best grapes he can find, regardless of AVA. Inspired by the free-form character of its namesake tree, Ghost Pines embodies the progressive spirit of California winemaking – “excellence has no boundaries.”'

This is the opposite of the concept of terroir, that sense of place associated with the grapes from a particular vineyard and its distinctive combination of climate, micro-climate, soil, terrain, sun, drainage - all the elements that contribute to the character of grapes from specific place. In fact it takes that sense of place and multiplies it times three, four, five or more. And then take all of that times four or five different grape varietals that are in the composition for this wine. The result is a big complex flavorful wine.

Ghost Pines is named for a historic vineyard purchased in 1964 by Napa’s historic Louis M. Martini Winery. Ironically, they then go against all the heritage or sense of that vineyard and emphasize their approach to produces unique wines by giving Winemaker Michael Eddy 'the freedom to choose the best grapes he can find, regardless of AVA (appellation of designated place where grapes are grown with common characteristics).

Wine folks refer to 'old world' and 'new world' wines - the old world being wine regions that have been producing wines for centuries; France, Italy, Germany, Portugal, as compared to new world where wines have been produced for years ... or perhaps decades; Chile, Argentina, South Africa, Austrailia, New Zealand, .... America. Ghost Pines would be the epitomy of new world thinking.

While old world wines may be 'narrow' and perhaps uninspiring, those producers have become masters at getting the absolute most out of their particular 'patch' of ground that is their vineyard. This includes learning over time precisely which grapes (varietals) grow best in that place, and best reflect through their output that sense of place - terroir. As such, they'll also select grapes that compliment each other and go best together as in combination to provide the best results in the blend. One grape for depth, one for breadth, one for increased structure, and complementary flavors.

At the end of the day, lets never forget, its all grape juice!

Those with discriminating palates that have the experience and discernment to parse all the elements and characteristics of a wine so as to even detect that sense of terroir, or the nuances of the different grapes in the blend, let alone the effects of the particular vintage, appreciate comparing one vintage of an Estate wine to the next. Indeed, Estate bottled means that the grapes in that bottle were grown on the property of the producer as identifed on the label.

The French famously put on their labels (left) "Mis En Bouteille au Château", roughly translated as bottled at the Chateau or Estate or property. Adding the words "Appellation Original Controllee", (AOC) go further to certify that that wine conforms to rigorous controls over the grapes, their origin within the Appellation, and how the wine was produced. In Italy, the similarly equivalent references are DOC and DOCG (Denominazione di origine controllata - "Controlled designation of origin") that are the controls that enforce the quality of the wine in a particular area or appellation.


All this said, Ghost Pines is the result of free-form selection of grapes from many locales, from many varietals, blended together into their wines. This is the case in bulk wine, oft called 'jug wines', but in this case, they're striving for 'contemporary' quality wine from the same approach.


The result is not necessarily sophisticated, polished, harmonious or 'integrated', all words that might describe how well the different components of the blend complement each other, it is complex, perhaps to a fault. But then again, its a $15 wine, that no man's land between 'jug' wine and a Meritage (trademarked branding for a Bordeaux blend composition in a non-Bordeaux sourced wine - the Bordeaux varietals being Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot) or Bordeaux or other AOC wine.

By their own pronouncements they profess, "When our winemakers think about how to make a great wine, they start in the vineyard. And that vineyard has no boundaries. It may begin in northern Napa and end on the hillsides of Sonoma. It might stretch across mountains and valleys to Lodi in San Joaquin or meander down the Pacific Coast to Monterey. When the barriers of traditional appellations are lifted, a progressive group of winemakers sees no limit to the kind of wine they can make. Those winemakers, led by Ghost  Pines Vintner Michael Eddy, are turning out remarkable wines that blend the best of California's diverse appellations." 

In addition to this Red Blend, Ghost Pines also produce a Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel and a Chardonnay.

You be the judge. Its all in the eye of the beholder. I think in the end, they produce a wine that provides high QPR - Quality Price Ratio, and perhaps that is what is most important to the consumer anyway. While not true to appellation conventions, look for Ghost Pines for imaginative, bold and interesting wines.

Even the producer speaks to a Dr Jekyll, Mr Hyde combination in the blend of grapes used for this wine. "The Ghost Pines 2011 Red Blend showcases the complexity and balance that the right combination of the right grapes can achieve. The Bordeaux varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot in this blend act as the stoic Dr. Jekyll, while the Petite Sirah, Zinfandel and Sangiovese are a classic Hyde: assertive, aggressive and maybe even a little disturbed."

The winemakers' notes for this wine describe, "Aromas of blueberry and blackberry pie are framed nicely by salted caramel, spice and truffle notes. Rich and full-bodied, this blend offers chewy tannins and a long, luscious finish."

I found this wine dark purple colored, full bodied, complex aromas and flavors of black and blue berry fruits, tones of cherry, graphite, spice and tea with a tight edge on the firm tannins lingering on the finish.

RM 87 points.

The blend is 48% Petite Sirah, 21% Zinfandel, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petit Verdot, 9% Other.
The grapes are sourced from 56% Sonoma County, 23% San Joaquin County, and 21% from Napa County.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1591550

http://www.ghostpines.com/

Markham Vineyards Napa Valley Petit Syrah 2001

Markham Vineyards Napa Valley Petit Syrah 2001

For a family Sunday barbecue dinner of ribs and burgers on the grill I pulled what I think may be the last bottle of this case that we bought more than a decade ago. It has held up amazingly well and still is drinking very nicely. Medium to full bodied, dark garnet color, the black berry and black cherry fruits are starting to fall off a bit and give way to a layer of tobacco and hint of leather and earth, tones of currant and rose petals and anise are accented by firm but polished well integrated tannins on the finish. 

The layer of anise and tobacco accenting the black fruits and the firmness and gripping tannins were a great complement to the grilled barbecue ribs.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=23633