Aged vintage wines for family birthday dinner

Aged vintage wines for family birthday dinner 

The family gathered at our house for a gala celebration dinner for my upcoming birthday. 

We grilled out cowboy tomahawk ribeye steaks and bbq baby back ribs, and scallops, accompanied by salad, baked beans, mashed potatoes, grilled asparagus and Mac-n-cheese (for the kids). 

The cooks, (above) Linda, master chef, and Ryan, griller and carver - naturally absent, missing from the family photo above, (as is Reid who was playing ball out in the yard with friends). 

Grilled scallops on herb buttered toast points 

For a wine accompaniment I pulled from the cellar a Sauvignon Blanc and a Chardonnay for the whites and two aged vintage big reds wines for the beef and ribs, and an aged vintage dessert wine (also a birthyear vintage). 

I also selected several younger Right Bank Bordeaux varietal wines, in the event we went through the open bottles, or needed a back-up if the first choice wines were not up to par, due to age or other conditions.  Almost regrettably, we didn’t open those wines which I was looking forward to trying, hence they’ll be available for another day. 

LaJota Napa Valley Howell Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon 1990

La Jota Vineyards in Napa Valley date back to 1888 when winemaking pioneer W.S. Keyes planted some of the first vines on Howell Mountain. Ten years later his contemporary, Fredrick Hess, built a stone winery and established La Jota Vineyard Co., named for its location on the Mexican parcel Rancho La Jota. 

Both men won medals for their Howell Mountain wines in the Paris Exposition of 1900.

La Jota Vineyard Co. continues today as a boutique producer crafting small-production mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Chardonnay, sourced from the winery’s estate and from nearby W.S. Keyes Vineyard.

Today, Howell Mountain is known for Cabernet Sauvignon in Napa’s rugged northeastern hills with its volcanic ash soils deposited millenia ago by Mount Konocti. Howell Mountain itself is a weathered volcanic "knob" with two distinct soils: crumbly white decomposed volcanic ash known as rhyolitic tuff and red, iron-laden soils of clay and volcanic rock.

La Jota estate vines develop good root systems in these well-draining, porous, nutrient-lean soils, allowing them to self-regulate the amount of water they take in. And the nutrient lean soils force the vines to struggle to survive, forcing their energy to the fruit. The result is tiny berries and clusters with very high flavor concentration.

Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon was made famous by legendary wine maker Randy Dunn, who gained fame at Caymus in the 1970s and 1980s. Turning his attention to Howell Mountain, it became officially recognized as the first sub-region of Napa Valley in 1983. We visited the Dunn Vineyards estate up at Angwin on Howell Mountain during our Napa Valley Howell Mountain Wine Experience back in 2008. We were hosted by Kristina Dunn that day but we had the privilege to meet winemaker, producer, patriarch and Napa Valley pioneer Randy Dunn.

The Howell Mountain AVA includes 1,000 acres of vineyards interspersed by forestlands at the north end of the Vaca Mountain range that forms the eastern wall or Napa Valley. With vineyards at 1,400 to 2,000 feet in elevation, they sit above the fog line. The days on Howell Mountain remain cooler than those in the heart of the valley, giving the grapes a bit more time on the vine.

The soils, shallow and infertile with good drainage, are volcanic ash and red clay and produce highly concentrated berries with thick skins. The resulting wines are full of structure and potential to age.

We tasted the recent release of La Jota Howel Mtn Cabernet at the SoWal (Southwest Walton Beaches) Wine Festival in Destin, (FL) last year was one of the highlights of that event and we acquired their current release of this label at that time - Pour Boys gather for SoWal Wine Festival weekend in Destin.

Notably, LaJota was acquired by and is now part of the vast portfolio of Jackson Family Wines, who amassed a vast Billion dollar wine empire that now comprises some of the most storied labels, such as this. It was being presented by Jackson Wines at the SoWal festival. 

I wrote about Jess Jackson and the building of the family wine empire in earlier blogposts in these pages - most recently last month - La Crema Coastal Chardonnay with Homemade Chicken Piccata, and earlier, Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2018.

And, we’ve featured other vintages of this label in other notable tastings -Boy's Night Out Cellar Tours Wine Tasting, and Dad's Day Father Son Tasting Birthyear Wines.

Today, La Jota’s winemaker is Chris Carpenter, a graduate from the University of Illinois with a BS in biology, who also earned an MBA in Chicago before working various roles in the food and beverages industry. During those years in Chicago he developed a love of food and wine, and a network of colleagues in the business.

After a visit to Napa Valley in 1993, he decided to pursue a career in wine and went on to earn a Masters in Viticulture and Enology from the University of California, Davis. 

In 1998 he found himself working as the Assistant Winemaker at Cardinale where he learned making wines from mountain terroir. In 2005 he became the Winemaker for La Jota.

Tonight we opened this vintage 1990 release,  a birthyear vintage wine of son Alec, celebrating my birthday, and he and wife Vivianna expecting (grand) baby number three. 

This release was rated 92 points by Robert Parker back in 1993, when he wrote, this wine should “reach its apogee by the turn of the century and last 20 or more years”. 

At 35 years, it has held up remarkably well, despite the tattered label, the fill level and cork were still in great condition, considering their age. 

The wine showed no signs of diminution from aging and still well within its drinking window, albeit not likely to continue aging beyond a few more years. 

Winemaker Notes - “Where rivers, creeks and property lines usually define an AVA, the Howell Mountain boundaries are defined by a 1,400 foot elevation contour line as the lowest point and the highest vineyards at 2,400 feet above sea level. The vines share the mountain with pines, oaks, madrone and the easternmost stand of the coastal redwoods.”

Opaque garnet/purple colored, medium to full bodied, rich, round concentrated black berry and black currant fruits with notes of minerals, cassis, and classic Howell Mtn spices, with firm but approachable tannins on the lingering, what Wine Spectator calls “fleshy” finish.  

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?771991

https://www.lajotavineyardco.com/

Château du Domaine de l'Eglise Pomerol 1989

Château du Domaine de l'Eglise is a renowned producer of Right Bank Bordeaux wine, located in the commune of Pomerol, in the shadow of the church tower, and less than two kilometres, within walking distance, of notable producers Château Clinet (300m) and Château Petrus (900m). 

The Pomerol AOC (Appellation Originale Controllee) is located in the Libourne region on the Right Bank of the Dordogne River, just upstream from its confluence with the Isle. The town of Libourne, has a port that was used for exporting wines as far back as 1269. 

In the 1900s, winegrowers got together and made joint purchases. Working together, they set up a winegrowers’ and farmers’ union to improve their wine and protect the Pomerol appellation. The AOC area was defined in 1928, recognised in 1936 and revised in 2011.

Today, the Pomerol AOC is renowned for its great wines such as Pétrus, Trotanoy, Clinet, Petit Village and Gazin. The Pomerol appellation comprises around 800 hectares with 140 producers with an average of 6 hectares, producing 31,000 hectolitres of red wine a year.

The origins of the Château du Domaine de l’Église vineyard can be traced back to 1589, at the beginning of the reign of the Good King Henri (Henri IV). The estate was seized by authorities during the French Revolution and in 1793 it was sold to the Bertin family though a national property sale.

In 1893, the Bertin family produced ten barrels of wine, rising to twenty barrels by 1949. Simon Landard, Laure Bertin’s nephew, ran the estate a few years later. The estate was acquired in 1973 by Émile Castéja, 

Château du Domaine de l’Eglise was owned by Philippe Castéja and his sister, Chantal Castéja Prében-Hansen. Philippe ran the estate and improved the quality of the wine over the years. The wine from Château du Domaine de l’Eglise is considered a Grand Vin. Today the estate is run by the firm of Borie-Manoux.

The 7-hectare vineyard of Château du Domaine de l’Église is mainly planted with Merlot (95%), with a touch of Cabernet Franc (5%). The vines have an average age of 40 years.  The vineyard is situated on a plateau with classic Pomerol terroir, characterized by gravelly soil and clay subsoil, which imparts a distinct minerality to the wine. 

At thirty six years, this wine was holding up remarkably well and still very much in its drinking window, but certainly not likely to improve with any further aging, and best to be consumed in the next couple years. The label and foil and most importantly the fill level was top of neck and the cork was still intact despite being partly saturated, it was holding its integrity. It was carefully extracted using an ‘Ahso’ two pronged cork puller (shown). It likely would have collapsed in the bottle if pressed by a traditional cork screw. I always use this method, especially with older wines (except for synthetic corks).  

This release was awarded 90 points by Wine Advocate in 1993. 

This was even better the following day, being more balanced and settled, after decades of aging in the cellar.

Dark blackish garnet colored, medium to full bodied, deep rich round ripe balanced blackberry, cherry and plum fruits with herbs and vibrant spice notes with soft fine tannins on a long sensuous finish. 

RM 90 points, better, 91 points the following day. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?186048

https://www.domainedeleglise.com/en/

We also opened a birthyear vintage aged sweet dessert wine which paired perfectly with the scallops as well as the salad and later, the dessert. I wrote about this in a follow on blogpost - Clos Fontindoule Monbazillac Dessert Wine.

 https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2025/05/clos-fontindoule-monbazillac-1982-as.html

Exec Team (Reunion) Dinner At Entourage DG

Exec Team (Reunion) Dinner At Entourage DG

Former SMD and COO (Ret’d) Tom O of our former company, came to town to assist with this weekend’s Wright Plus annual architectural house walk, and to meet up with our former executive management team for a (reunion) dinner. We broke tradition of our regular meetings at Italian Village, Chicago (Team Dinner and Go-to CasalFerro Wines at Italian Village Chicago), and Angeli’s Italian in Naperville to introduce them to Entourage Restaurant in Downers Grove, our new go-to eatery, despite the fact we had just dined there a few days earlier, last weekend - Mother’s Day Eve Dinner - BYOB @ Entourage DG.

Ironically, we attended a Wine Dinner at Italian Village just the night before and I mentioned our regular team meetings there as part of my blogpost feature of the event - Vino Viaggio Wine Dinner at Vivere’ Italian Village Chicago.

And, when not downtown at our (former) office, we would typically meet at Angelis’ Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria - as also featured in many of these pages, such as Team dinner at Angeli's Italian.

When I suggested we try this new spot, there was unanimous consent. I think I can safely say everyone found Entourage a hit, giving high marks to the cuisine, service, atmosphere, beverages, sides, and convenience. 

As I am so often heard to say, “I’m not selling, just sharing”, in light of my reportage of previous dinners, both Rick K and Stacy selected the popular Seabass entree.

Stacy enjoyed a white wine blend Domaine de Pouy, Côtes de Gascogne, France 2021 from the WBTG - Wine By The Glass offerings on the limited but carefully selected wine list. 

This is from the Côtes de Gascogne appellation in the Gascony subregion in southwest France. This little known region sits about 100 miles south of Bordeaux, midway between the city of Toulouse and the Atlantic Coast. There, 250 wineries produce 3000 modest Vin de Pays wines from the primary grapes Sauvignon Blanc, Columbard and the unique varietal Gros Manseng. 

Some fellow CellarTracker notes on this label can be found at -  https://www.cellartracker.com/w?4311754.

For our entrees, both Tom O and I tried the daily special, a Long Island Cut Strip Steak, after Tom inquired about the Long Island reference in the name, being a native from there. The name refers to the butcher’s cut. Entourage delivered again with a delicious piece of meet, prefectly prepared to my ‘Pittsburgh style’  preference, accompanied by Parmesan Potatoes. 

The perfect dinner was complete with a limited production Napa Cabernet that I brought BYOB from the home cellar which proved to be an outstanding pairing with our grilled beefsteaks. 

I wrote about this producer and this wine an earlier blogpost.- Steady State & Walls Curiositas, excerpted below. 

That night we drank the Josh Phelps Grounded Steady State with grilled tomahawk ribeye beefsteak dinner. 

Ground Wine Company Steady State Napa Valley Red Wine 2015

This is from boutique garagiste Winemaker Chris Phelps and his son Josh who work from their Napa Valley work space adjacent to a coffee store in the town of St. Helena. They meld contrasting styles and approaches to synergistically punctuate their emerging, growing presence in the California and West Coast wine scene.

Chris Phelps is a well known winemaker, terroir-driven producer of super premium Cabernet Sauvignon wines from specific and illustrious plots of grapes across Napa Valley. 

Son Josh Phelps, who grew in the wine culture of Napa Valley, is a millennial winemaker who launched his own new brand called Grounded Wine Co. in 2015. Josh has developed the ability to produce high QPR - (quality price ratio) affordable every day drinking wines ($15 to $25) from grapes sourced from distinctive growers and locations across California and the northwest states. Both father and son each own their own companies, but work together to enhance their mutual capabilities.

As a relatively new name among the category's leading wines Winemaker Josh Phelps and hisGrounded Wine Co. produce a diversified portfolio of whimsically named wines from across the western states, "Grounded in heritage, grounded in soil, grounded in simplicity". Josh Phelps' Grounded wines are a testament to Josh’s connections with growers throughout his home state and the broader west coast. Phelps new releases from growing regions in Washington State, Oregon, Napa and Paso Robles.

While he strives to produce wines priced to be accessible to younger wine drinkers, don’t discount low priced wines from a young winemaker. If he continues to release wines as good as Phelps’ early releases, this is a winemaker and label you’ll want to follow.

The Grounded collection consists of: 

• "Grounded" branded California Cabernet Sauvignon and a California Sauvignon Blanc, "Grounded in heritage, grounded in soil, grounded in simplicity." Grounded wines by Josh Phelps are a testament to Josh’s connections with growers throughout his home state and the broader west coast; 
• "Land Form", a Pinot Noir from Oregon Willamette Valley, Landform is a reaffirmation of Josh's commitment to creating wines that evoke a sense of place;
• "Collusion" Washington State Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, his Washington-based project, focused on prohibition and the rich history of West Cost vintners; a tribute to those who kept the wine industry alive by any means;
• "Space Age" California Central Coast Rosé; and, 
• "Public Radio" a Grenache based Red Blend, a tribute to the call sign on the front label was that of Josh’s late grandfather who was an avid amateur radio enthusiast;
• And this, his 'premium' label,"Steady State".

Grounded Wine Company Steady State Red Wine 2015 

This is the initial inaugural release of this Bordeaux blend, from Grounded Wine Co. an extraordinary Red Blend that might be considered his flagship label. 

Josh explains the name of this wine this way: "If a system is in a steady state, then the recently observed behavior of the system will continue into the future. 

The concept for this Cabernet Sauvignon pays homage to growing up in the Napa Valley and learning from its traditions." 

Phelps fermented this Cabernet in steel, and left the juice on the skin for three weeks before aging it in French oak barrels, 40 percent of which were new. 

The result is a lively Cabernet with red and dark fruit flavors underscored by a bramble note.

This is sourced from several of Napa Valley’s well known growers and vineyard sites.

I found this at a local merchant with its simple label but expensive ultra-premium packaging with extra heavy glass, deep bung, and quality capsule, and grabbed every bottle available. I wish I could go back and get more. Watch for it and get some if you can. This shows much higher than its pricepoint and provides significant QPR - quality price ratio.

This is a blend Bordeaux varietals, 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Malbec, 7% Cabernet Franc, 6% Merlot, and 6% Petit Verdot. It is sourced from vineyards in Rutherford, Oakville, Saint Helena, and Yountville.

This was rated 93 points by Wine Spectrum, and 91 points by Wine Enthusiast.

Tonight, at ten years of age, this remains at the apex of its drinking window, but will not likely improve further with aging, but should hold on for several more years. Fortunately I still have three more bottles. 

This was consistent with earlier tasting which I repeat here.

Deep ruby garnet colored, medium-full bodied, full, round, forward bright expressive but nicely balanced and integrated aromatic black and red fruits highlighted by notes of cola, dark mocha chocolate, tobacco and hints of graphite and expresso with bright acidity and lush gripping but approachable tannins on a long finish.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2871211

https://www.groundedwineco.com/

https://entouragerestaurant.com/downers-grove/

Mother’s Day Eve Dinner - BYOB @ Entourage DG

Saturday afternoon Mother’s Day Eve Dinner - BYOB @ Entourage DG

For a pre-mother’s eve day dinner, we had an early afternoon dinner at Entourage Restaurant, Downers Grove, our newest favorite eatery in the western (Chicago) suburbs. We’ve featured Entourage and some of our favorite dishes several times in these pages in recent months, as shown in some of the links below - 

Spectacular dining experience at Entourage Restaurant Downers Grove

Lunch/Dinner Redux at Entourage DG

Plumpjack Reserve Napa Chardonnay at Entourage Restaurant Naperville

Signorello Hope’s Chardonnay BYOB at Entourage DG

Prior to our main course, we enjoyed the Roasted Beets and Whipped Goat Cheese Salad - Arugula, B aby Gem with Spicy Pecans, Fennel, Hot Honey and Grapefruit Citrus Vinaigrette. This was delicious - a wonderful pairing of flavors

We have a growing number of favorite go-to entrees as we discover more fabulous feature offerings on their menu. This day, I tried another one of their signature dishes and it was equally fabulous, as my other fave’s. 

I had the Orange Basil Salmon - Orange Glazed with Parmesan Risotto, Shishito, Entourage signature Charred Peppers, and Orange Basil Butter Sauce. It was out of this world - as good as any Salmon dish I’ve had, ever! 

Linda chose for her entree the lunch version of one of her favorite dinner dishes, the Shrimp variant of the Lobster + Shrimp Rigatoni with Tomato, Spinach, Charred Jalapeño with Lemon White Wine and Parmesan Cream with Roasted Garlic Toast.

Like our similar outing a couple weeks ago, I brought two wines for pairing, a red and a white, from which to choose based on our entree selections. With our seafood we opened, BYOB from our home cellar, a wonderful flavorful Napa Chardonnay. 

Hudson Vineyards Napa Valley Carneros Chardonnay 2018

This is from the legendary Hudson Ranch vineyards in Carneros, down at the bottom of the Mayacamas Mountain range that separates Napa Valley from Sonoma Valley. Like the legendary ToKalon Vineyard up in Rutherford, this is the source of many notable labels from classic ranked producers. It might be a stretch, but to that point, Hudson Ranch Vineyard is to Chardonnay what ToKalon Vineyard is to Cabernet Sauvignon - source to many premier producers’ labels. 

I love Hudson Ranch wines, that represent some of my most memorable tastings. I wrote about Hudson Ranch Carneros Vineyard Chardonnay in earlier blogposts - Hudson Chardonnay at Oceana NYC, having had it this popular New York City restaurant, and again featuring another premium Chardonnay - Napa Valley Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignons flight and Carneros Chardonnay, and at another fabulous wine dinner - Pour Boys Wine Dinner at Del Ray Beach Wine Kitchen.

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I also featured Hudson Ranch Vineyard Syrah in other blogposts, at another classic Chicago restaurant - Cherry Circle Room dinner features super wine flight, and at home - Kongsgaard Hudson Ranch Vineyard Syrah 2002.

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Hudson Ranch Carneros has ideal terroir for Chardonnay, ideal well drained soil and a micro-climate with ample sunshine with warm days, and cool nights from the fog and cool breezes from nearby San Pablo Bay.

Hudson Chardonnay is found in bottlings from ultra-premium producers Albert, Kongsgard, Kistler and Ramey to name a few - some of the top rated Napa Chardonnay’s to be found anywhere. Beyond growing wine grapes for the most respected winemakers in Napa and Sonoma, they also provide fruit for more than 30 wineries from the 2,000-acre contiguous property, 

Notably, only 200 acres of the 2,000 are under vines in vineyard blocks planted with twenty different varietals, each carefully matched to the block based on its specific terroir and that varietal’s growing characteristics. In addition to 90 acres of the primary grape varietal Chardonnay, Lee Hudson working with vineyard manager Andres Ureña also cultivates 30 acres of Merlot, 27 of Syrah, 12 of Cabernet Franc, 9 Cabernet Sauvignon, 35 Grenache, 26 Sauvignon Blanc, 4 Friulano, 25 Ribolla Gialla and one of Arneis.

One of these, the Old Master block, Hudson Ranch’s most prized vineyard is more like two different vineyards, with two distinct soil types. It was determined Merlot thrives on the Huichica formation soil, rich in alluvial, bay and river deposits, and Cabernet Franc loves the well-drained, rocky Sonoma volcanic soils that spread across the other half of the block. 

One of those famous producers writes, “What attracts us to this vineyard is the rich history of Lee Hudson being one of the preeminent and pioneering chardonnay growers in the new world. The vineyard is planted in southern Napa where the rolling hills form a micro-valley of their own. These vines are graced by both the Napa heat as well as cool ocean-born breezes from the San Francisco bay.”

Hudson Ranch is the dream and passion of proprietor Lee Hudson who transformed the land into the highly esteemed vineyard it is today. Born and raised in Houston, Texas, Lee received his B.S. in Horticulture at the University of Arizona. He then worked with the esteemed Jacques Seysses of Domaine Dujac, in Morey St. Denis, Burgundy where he was learned how great grapes from hallowed vineyard sites produce world class, fine wines. Lee returned to the States to continue his graduate studies in viticulture and enology at University of California at Davis, where many of his classmates are now his clients. Lee searched for property from Santa Barbara to Mendocino, before deciding on the Carneros property in Napa Valley, founding Hudson Vineyards in 1981.

Co- Owner, wife Cristina Salas-Porras Hudson had a distinguished twenty-five year career in food and wine, hospitality, and design, working alongside Alice Waters of Chez Panisse. Then she spent ten years consulting for Hermes, Slow Food International, Steve Jobs, and Rockfield Japan. She now works with Lee, at Hudson Ranch and Vineyards overseeing their Napa Valley-based business, Hudson Greens & Goods. 

Also a native Texan, from El Paso, Cristina received her BA in East Asian Studies from Middlebury College in Vermont, and a graduate degree in Japanese from Keio University in Japan. She helped to open the renowned Park Hyatt Hotel in Tokyo, and the art-driven Bardessono Hotel in Yountville, California, as well as co-founding O Olive Oil Company. 

The 2,000-acre Hudson Ranch is one of the most celebrated properties in Carneros. After decades of selling their fruit to other wineries, Hudson began making their own wines in 2004. 

The Hudson Winemaker is Andrew Holve, who most recently served as Head Winemaker for Newton Vineyards. After earning a master’s degree in Viticulture & Enology from UC Davis he gained experience at Ridge, MacRostie, and Patz & Hall.

Andrew works closely with the legendary John Kongsgaard, Hudson’s founding winemaker and current consulting winemaker. 

This 2018 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard is the estate grown label produced, bottled and marketed by the proprietor/grower sourced from some of the best sections of the larger vineyard, some of the original most established and acclaimed blocks that were planted in the 1980s. 

This release was rated  98 Points by FMW. 

Winemaker Notes: “The 2022 Chardonnay showcases a combination of 4 distinct blocks from the Hudson Estate planted to Heritage Shot Wente clone. We hand-select barrels from each site to create a Chardonnay that fully expresses the elegant and balanced style of Hudson Vineyards. The wine is rich with bright acidity and mouthwatering notes of citrus, stone fruit, and brioche.” 

Golden colored, medium to full bodied, bright, rich full round flavors of lemon citrus and stone fruits, hints of apricot and pear accented by notes of brioche with vibrant acidity on the mineral laced finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?3509983

https://hudsonranch.com/

https://entouragerestaurant.com/downers-grove/

Wine Flight for casual dinner

Sangiovese Wine Flight for casual dinner 

Vacationing at The Cove, our Vacation Rental in Destin (FL), we entertained neighbors/friends Richard & Vickie for a casual dinner. Linda prepared fresh John’s Famous Crab Cakes from John’s Sea Market on Emerald Coast Parkway in Destin, and waygu beef burgers. 

We wrote about John’s Crab Cakes in an earlier blogpost - Sea Market Crab Cakes anchor wine dinner last year. 

I opened from our home cellar a flight of wines for the occasion, taking into account our friends’ Italian heritage and preference for Italian and Italian varietal wines. 

With the starter course of a selection of artisan cheeses and fresh fruits, and the crab cakes, we opened a Russian River Valley Chardonnay. 

Gary Farrell Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2021

I wrote about this label and our visit to the Gary Farrell estate winery in the Russian River Valley in this earlier blogpost, Pour Boys Coq-Au-Vin and wine dinner, excerpted here. 

We joined the Farrell club during our visit to the Gary Farrell estate and winery in the Russian River Valley in Sonoma County during or Napa / Sonoma Wine Experience in 2017.

Gary Farrell Sonoma County Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2021

Gary Farrell was a pioneer of winemaking in Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley appellation. He produced his first vintage in 1982, before the Russian River AVA even existed. He crafted that first Pinot Noir from fruit grown in the now-legendary Rochioli Vineyard. 

Over the years, Gary Farrell become somewhat of a legend producing a portfolio of varietal, single vineyard designated wines produced from only the best vineyards that showcase the unique terroir from the Russian River Valley and across Sonoma County. 

Gary Farrell never owned a vineyard but produced consistently exceptional wines from that first vintage in 1982 by partnering based on handshake deals with the region's pioneer growers like the Rochioli, Dutton, Ramey, Allen and Hallberg families, whose Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vineyards represented the best of the time and place. Since then, the winery has produced critically acclaimed Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in collaboration with the most esteemed growers in the Russian River Valley and throughout California’s greatest wine regions.

The nearly 40 different vineyards extend beyond the Russian River Valley and include grapes from as far north as the Fort Ross-Seaview Vineyard along the Sonoma coast to the Sanford and Benedict Vineyard in Santa Barbara County. 

Theresa Heredia is the winemaker for Garry Farrell. Theresa found her passion for wine through biochemistry, earning a bachelor’s degree from Cal Poly San Luis Obispo. She became a Ph.D. candidate in chemistry/enology at UC Davis before leaving the program to pursue winemaking. At Freestone Winery in Sebastopol, she gained acclaim for her small-lot, single-vineyard Chardonnay and Pinot Noir before arriving at Gary Farrell Winery in 2012. Aside from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Theresa has also crafted Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel and a Rosé of Pinot Noir.

Farrell sold his winery in 2004, but his name and reputation for producing outstanding wines continues under the leadership of Theresa.

We visited the winery’s beautiful estate and hospitality center that lies just west of Healdsburg, (CA), perched on a hilltop overlooking the Russian River Valley during our Napa / Sonoma Wine Experience in 2017. The inviting indoor space offers stunning views of the valley with floor to ceiling windows, and there’s an expansive terrace so guests can enjoy the wines alfresco. The walls are adorned with a collection of colorful artwork. 

Gary Farrell produces over a dozen ultra-premium Chardonnays sourced from top vineyard sites throughout the region. 

This Russian River Selection bottling is 100% Russian River Valley Chardonnay blended from some of the region’s top vineyard sources - Westside Farms, Bacigalupi Vineyard, Goddard Ranch, Olivet Lane Vineyard, Rochioli Vineyard, Allen Vineyard, Lazy W Vineyard, Martinelli Vineyard, Parnell Ranch, and Pratt Cornerstone Vineyard. It expresses the varietal and the RRV appellation’s unique terroir.

This layered and complex Chardonnay brings together fruit from several of Farrell’s favorite Russian River Valley vineyard sites reflecting the character of Westside Farms, intriguing floral and stone fruit notes from Bacigalupi Vineyard, the wine’s great concentration and structure derive from the nearby Rochioli and Allen vineyards and Olivet Lane Vineyard.

The famous Rochioli Vineyard was originally purchased in 1938 by Joe Rochioli, Sr. The quest of growing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the fertile, gravelly soils was continued by Joe Jr. after his father’s passing in 1966. The collaboration between Gary Farrell Winery and the Rochioli Vineyard has been in effect for more than 30 years and is a foundation of the Farrel portfolio of Russian River Valley wines.

 

This was aged 10 months in 30% new French oak. 4578 cases were produced. 

This label was rated 92-93 points by Wine Enthusiast and 92 by Wine Spectator. 

Golden straw colored, medium bodied, rich, round, concentrated but crisp clean green apple, pear and hints of peach and pineapple fruits with notes of nut, minerals, flintiness and barrel spice with a textured lingering finish.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.garyfarrellwinery.com/

With the waygu beef burgers we turned to a medley of Sangiovese Italian varietal red wines. 

Richard and we both love Sangiovese and most of our Italian cellar selections are that varietal, which we love paired with Italian cuisine. 

The Brunello di Montalcino label is tightly regulated and can only be made from 100% Sangiovese grapes grown in the Montalcino region of Tuscany, Italy. 

Appellation regulations also limit the quantity of wine produced each year and mandate a Long Aging Process which stipulate Brunello must be aged for a minimum of four years, with at least two years spent in oak barrels. This lengthy aging process that ties up resources and increases production costs contributes to the higher price point of the label.

The rigorous production regulations set by the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium ensure that only the highest quality wines bear the Brunello label. This commitment to quality often requires additional investment in vineyard management, winemaking techniques, and quality control.

Brunello has gained a reputation as one of Italy's finest wines, prized for its complexity, depth, and ability to age gracefully. Its prestigious status and limited availability contribute to high demand and, consequently, higher prices.

We started with this premium ‘Sasoallora’ from Jacobi Biondi Santi.

Jacopo Biondi-Santi 'Sassoalloro' Toscana IGT 2019 

Biondi Santi's Toscana Rosso Sassoalloro crafted by family winery Jacopo Biondi Santi in Tuscany, producers of a portfolio of Sangiovese, labels. 

This Sassoalloro label first produced in 1991 is the iconic wine is sourced from the vineyards of the Castello di Montepò, “Aia di Clemente”, 15 acres in a small garden in Montepò in a portion of Galestro. The vineyard is exposed to the East, South-East with a slope of 17% with rows 280 meters long. There is no irrigation in the vineyards to force deep and well-resistant vine development.

It is crafted by Jacopo and Tancredi Biondi Santi in collaboration with the winemaker Donato Lanati. 

It is produced with 100% Sangiovese Grosso grapes, harvested at the end of September. After vinification, the wine was aged in barriques of non-toasted woods of the Tronçais forests for 14 months.

This was rated 92 points by James Suckling and 90 by Wine Enthusiast. 

Winemakers notes -  “It is a wine with a brilliant ruby ​​red color, with shades tending to violet. The nose opens with fresh and fruity scents, enriched with pleasant notes of violet. In the mouth it is soft and velvety, with an extremely long finish. Overall it is a very elegant wine, with an excellent longevity potential: from 15 to 20 years.”

Bright ruby colored, medium bodied, slightly opaque, smooth and elegant sweet berry and cherry fruits with notes of walnuts, herbs and spices with bright acidity and fine tannins on a lingering finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/4185025

Cerbaia Brunello Di Montalcino 2019

I then opened this highly rated Sangiovese from Cerbaia. I featured this wine and producer in an earlier blogpost, excerpted here - Cerbaia Brunello di Montalcino BYOB at Angeli’s Italian. 

We acquired this Limited Production Brunello di Montalcino at Binny's, our Chicagoland beverage superstore, based on their recommendation and its stellar 98 point rating. While I didn't give it such stellar ratings, we enjoyed it a lot and I went back to pick up a few more bottles. 

This is from Cerbaia, a boutique winery that produces wines from some of the finest vineyards in Montalcino that are a true expression of a unique and distinctive place.

The Cerbaia property has belonged to the Pellegrini family since the 1950s, with the family beginning to make wine in the 1970’s. The estate covers of a total of 35 acres of land, 11 of which are under the Brunello appellation controls, located on the highly regarded Montosoli Hill, known as the Grand Cru of Montosoli — some of the most coveted land in Tuscany.

In 2014, Elena Pellegrini gave up a promising career in corporate finance to devote herself to her family estate, striving to craft elegant, balanced wines in the traditional Montalcino style as her father Fabio did, applying minimal intervention and sustainable practices. She is advised by notable consulting enologist G.Gorelli, Italy’s first Master of Wine.

This 2019 release was awarded 98-points by James Suckling who declared it “one of the best I have had from here” in his review. Kerin O`Keefe of www.kerinokeefe.com gave it 94 Points.

The 2019 is emerging as an all-time great year in Montalcino: Vinous called it “the vintage we’ve all been waiting for.” Kerin O’Keefe, who wrote THE book on Brunello, said “I’ve never tasted so many drop-dead-gorgeous young Brunellos from a single vintage.” Wine Advocate called the vintage “uniformly easy” for vintners.

The release was aged three years in large oak casks ensured that it would be polished and beautiful from day one.

Winemaker Notes - Intense ruby red in color, garnet with aging. Rich and intense bouquet of violets, undergrowth, red fruits, eucalyptus, and blackberry. Very long persistence, fresh, and elegant but complex.

Bright ruby garnet colored, medium full bodied, vibrant blackberry and black cherry fruits with notes of dusty rose, tobacco, dried herbs and leather with hints of truffle with bright acidity on a smooth polished tannin finish.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4577891

For a fun comparison, and introduction to Richard an American Sangiovese, I opened this rare limited production Napa Valley label from a producer we know well. 

Del Dotto is one of the largest holdings in our cellar with more than a dozen labels dating back to their inaugural vintage release in 1993. 

Del Dotto Vineyards was established in 1990 when David and Yolanda Del Dotto planted vineyards on 17 acres in Rutherford at the homestead Estate on the corner of Highway 29 and Zinfandel Lane in Napa Valley. It truly is a family affair with David's father John being involved in the early days, and daughter Desiree and son Giovanni being involved in the business and having their own labels as well. I had the pleasure of meeting John back in the late nineties and working with Desiree as she took on marketing duties during that era.

The Del Dotto first release vintage was 1993. Since then the estate has grown significantly to 437 acres of vineyards producing 8,000-12,000 cases annually. Around 2010, the Del Dotto brand expanded further with the release of Villa Del Lago, an ultra-premium label from Pritchard Hill.

Del Dotto Vineyards are located in several appellations through Napa Valley and Sonoma County, including Rutherford Bench, St. Helena, Howell Mountain, Sonoma Coast, Spring Mountain, Oakville and Napa Valley. The large wine portfolio includes Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sangiovese, Zinfandel, Syrah and various blends. 

Rick and Linda with David Del Dotto circa 2003

Indeed, Del Dotto is one of the largest holdings in our cellar dating back to the inaugural vintage release back in 1993. Our association with Del Dotto dates back to our Napa Wine Experiences and wine producer and winemaker dinners back in the mid-nineties.

Del Dotto and then winemaker the legendary Nils Venge were pioneers of Sangiovese in Napa Valley, planting a couple acres around the house along the highway at the Rutherford Estate. We acquired many of those vintages, and several variations of their Sangiovese labels over the years, as seen in several of these blogposts - 

Del Dotto Sangiovese for Family Lasagna Dinner

Del Dotto Napa Valley Sangiovese 1998 - 2016

As mentioned, I’ve written often in these pages about Del Dotto pioneering Sangiovese in Napa Valley back in the late nineties under the collaboration with legendary winemaker Nils Venge. Del Dotto continues their lineage of Sangiovese wines with this offering under the Piazza label, the recent addition to the growing list of Del Dotto brands.

We discovered the Piazza brand during our Del Dotto Estate Cave Tour and Tasting during our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2017. We then targeted the just opened Piazza Winery Delicacies Wine and Food Tasting Experience during our Napa Valley Wine Experience 2018. It was the highlight of our entire Napa trip. We tasted and acquired this 2015 release during that Cave Tour tasting, and then follow on releases at the Piazza Winery. 

Del Dotto offered Napa Valley Sangiovese under the historic flagship 'David' label (shown right) from 1998 through 2003 and also appeared as Rutherford Estate Sangiovese 2013. (The 1998 label is shown here. The 1999 label calls it St Helena Sangiovese. 

((While we’re at it …. For the record and for reference for anyone tracking such details, the Cellartracker dossier, our inventory management system and normally reliable reference guide, is confused and misguided on this wine. It contains two references to this wine, both partially right and wrong. It lists the wine twice, Del Dotto Piazza Sangiovese and Del Dotto Sangiovese Piazza. For the first, it lists vintages 1999, 2003 (wrong) and 2013, '15 and 2016 (correct). For the latter it correctly lists 2013, '14, '15 and 2016, and errantly lists 1998 and 2003.))

Then followed a Del Dotto Caves Sangiovese line. We tasted and acquired these wine during our Del Dotto Napa Estate visit and Del Dotto Wine Producer Dinner back in 1999, and again at our Napa Wine Experience in 2003. 

Del Dotto then offered Del Dotto Napa Valley Cave Blend Sangiovese under the Cave Blend brand from 2004 through 2016. I believe Cellartracker references to this label from 2001 are in error and should refer to the 'David' branding. There is no photo evidence of this (Cave Blend 2001) label in the Cellartracker library or in internet searches.

When the Piazza Del Dotto estate and winery opened, the Piazza brand appeared with the 2013 release and continues to this day.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/11/del-dotto-sangiovese-for-family-lasagna.html

Del Dotto Piazza Napa Valley Sangiovese 2015

We tasted and acquired this wine during our Del Dotto Estate Cave Tour and Tasting back in 2018. We featured this wine soon thereafter and in several posts to follow including this one when we took it took it BYOB to our favorite neighborhood Italian Trattoria, Angelis Italian. 

This was delicious and everyone loved it making me glad we were able to acquire more. I wrote back then that “I wish I had more than the single case we acquired last year. I'll be looking for more.” And we did. 

After we consumed all the bottles we acquired during that visit, we reordered more and finished that too. We tried to order more and it was no longer offered on the Del Dotto shopping site (s). 

Then, we received an email from Del Dotto clearing out numerous vintage labels and we acquired a mixed case of favorites including several vintages of this label (below). 

Del Dotto Napa Valley Rutherford Sangiovese 2018 

When it arrived, I was surprised to see the historic original ‘legacy’ labels and the Rutherford Estate designation leading me to believe that this is sourced from those original two acres of vines planted back in the nineties. Indeed, according to the rear label, only two barrels were produced of this release.  

 It was great fun sharing this label with my Italian friend, and Italian Wine Lover, who had never experienced an American Sangiovese. It showed exceedingly well, more robust, forward and powerful than the more subdued, subtle Italians. 

Dark ruby colored, full bodied, complex, concentrated, vibrant forward round sweet ripe black berry and black currant and raspberry fruits with notes of spice, rustic earthy black tea, hints of mushrooms, dark mocha and vanilla with smooth silky tannins on a lingering finish.

RM 92 points.   

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/3727599 

http://www.deldottovineyards.com/

https://x.com/DelDottoWine

Something earlier Del Dotto posts - 

Del Dotto Sangiovese and Giovanni's Tuscan Reserve for Angelis Italian Dinner

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=48662

Del Dotto Sangiovese for Family Lasagna Dinner

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/11/del-dotto-sangiovese-for-family-lasagna.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2579868

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/08/del-dotto-piazza-sangiovese-at-angelis.html

Del Dotto Sangiovese with Angeli's Italian Pasta