Tomahawk Ribeye and Vintage wines for Celebration dinner
We hosted son Sean and d-in-law Michelle and family for a mini-celebration dinner for a recent business and career milestone that will be announced soon. I pulled from the cellar a birthyear vintage bottle for both his and Michelle’s birthyears - two big reds to accompany the grilled tomahawk ribeye beefsteak.
Linda also prepared sweet corn, roasted potatoes, a medley of mixed vegetables, and Sean prepared baby artichokes.
Dunn Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1985
If you’re acquiring wines to commemorate a special vintage year for a future date, such as a birthyear, you select a producer with a track record for producing long lived wines, and select wine from a region that had a good harvest of quality fruit suitable for producing long-lived wines.
Hence we hold a collection of such wines from Randy Dunn, the legendary, independent Napa Valley winemaker known for pioneering producing powerfull structured, age-worthy Cabernet Sauvignons. His 1985 Cabernet Sauvignon has shown longevity, maintaining incredible freshness and structure even four decades after harvest.
Randy Dunn helped shape the modern identity of Napa Valley. After studying enology at UC Davis, Dunn became the first head winemaker at Caymus Vineyards in 1975 where Caymus launched its legendary ultra-premium Special Selection Cabernet.
In 1978, Dunn and his wife Lori bought property atop Howell Mountain where he was instrumental in getting established the Howell Mountain AVA, which in 1983 became Napa’s first official sub-appellation.
While modern Napa moved toward micro-sorted, plush, high-alcohol wines, Dunn maintained his traditional style, crushing fruit with bits of stems intact for raw structure, and aging wines no less than thirty months in oak, crafting balanced, elegant, lower alcohol wines designed for the dinner table.
Dunn Vineyard’s Howell Mountain property is planted with 24 acres of Cabernet vines aging between 10-37 years.
We’ve written about Randy Dunn and select wines before in these blogposts -
We visited the Dunn Vineyards estate up at Angwin on Howell Mountain during our Napa Valley Howell Mountain Wine Experience back in 2008. We were hosted by Kristina Dunn that day but we had the privilege to meet winemaker, producer, patriarch and Napa Valley pioneer Randy Dunn.
While not one of the larger holdings in our cellar in terms of number of bottles, it may be one of our broadest holdings in terms of number of vintages in our vertical collection of this label, and the flagship premium label Dunn Howell Mtn Cab. We also collect Randy Dunn's "Feather" label that he produces for the Long Shadows Vintners Collection Series in Washington State.
Our Cellartracker records indicate we have a vertical collection of several mixed cases of each label from almost two dozen vintages dating back to 1981.
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Selections from Vertical Collection of Dunn Napa Valley Cabernets
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| With Randy Dunn at Dunn estate high atop Howell Mountain. |
Dunn is known for age-worthy long-lived Napa Cabernets, especially the premium Howell Mountain label. Robert Parker tasted both Dunn labels at ten years of age in 1996 and wrote: "Two of the most impressive wines in these tastings, both of Dunn's 1986s tasted like 3-4-year old Cabernets rather than 10-year old adolescents.... Rich, pure, and youthful, this 1986 is accessible now, but will unquestionably last another 20+ years." That would bring this wine to 2016 and here we are five years later. Dunn Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1985 Back in the 1980’s this vintage release was rated 94 points and “Top 100 Wines of 1988” by Wine Spectator, and 93 points by John Gillman as late as 2021.
Amazingly, at 40 years of age this 1985 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon is still holding its own showing some but little sign of diminution from age. The fill level, foil, label and most importantly the cork, were all in good, acceptable condition.
The bottle still has the pricetag sticker on the bottle showing $54.95, which would've been the purchase price back on release in the late 1980's.
In his 2021 review of this label, John Gilman wrote, “I last drank the 1985 Napa cabernet from Randy Dunn back in early 2018 and felt it was starting to turn the corner. However, at one of our most recent tastings, it was back in its tannic suit and tie and demanding to be left alone in a cool corner of the cellar for another ten-plus years.’
“The potential here remains exceptional, but I was hoping to see even a bit more softening of the tannins, rather than a still closed and cantankerously-structured wine!”

“The bouquet is excellent, wafting from the glass in a complex blend of cassis, sweet dark berries, stony soil tones, cigar smoke, incipient notes of petroleum jelly, pretty spice tones, a touch of road tar and cedary oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and still pretty clenched in its tannic chassis, with a lovely core, excellent soil signature and grip, firm, chewy tannins and a long, nascently complex and still very promising finish. Was my last bottle more forward, or is this bottle from a particularly cool cellar? I am not sure, but this most recent bottle needs still more time in the cellar before it starts to drink with generosity. Someday, it should be a terrific bottle of wine! (JG) 93+”
Wine Spectator wrote of this release - “Intense and concentrated, packed with ripe cassis, cherry and currant flavors that are rich and elegant. The acidity and tannins are crisp and juicy, offering great potential for the cellar.”
This was dark garnet colored, medium bodied, tangy dark blackberry and black raspberry fruits holding on, accented by notes of tobacco, spice, leather, hint of graphite, espresso and cassis with nicely integrated tannins on a round lingering finish.
RM 90 points.
https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/18231
http://www.dunnvineyards.com/
@dunn_vineyards
Marston Cellars Napa Valley St Helena Petit Syrah 1984
Previous owner Al Menasco became a pioneer in developing new vineyard practices. He experimented with different types of vineyard spacing and planted a dozen varieties of grapes in different soil types and micro climates on the property. He kept meticulous records to discover the optimum growing conditions for these varietals.
Over the years, the family whittled the vineyard’s focus from eleven varietals to one, and the Pettit Sirah vines, like the others were replaced with Cabernet Sauvignon which is the sole focus of property today.Today the vineyards comprise about 10 percent of the 500 acres of heavily forested land on terraced hillsides that range in elevation from 700 to 1,100 feet just above the fogline resulting in extended hours of sunlight. The additional sunshine coupled with the lower temperatures allow the fruit to ripen more slowly and uniformly, which ultimately enhances the wine’s concentration, complexity and texture. Furthermore, the rocky, mountain soils limit the vigor of the vines contributing to their fruit's richness and concentration.
We have one remaining bottle of this 1984 vintage release. Based on its storied history and amazing stamina and longevity, we'll look forward to a suitable and appropriate occasion to open it - clearly an OTBN candidate in the next few years!