Father son Constant and Darioush tasting

Following the afternoon into evening family gathering celebrating Christmas, the grandkids were taken home to be put to bed, sons Ryan and Alec stayed over for an end of evening wine tasting. 

We raided the cellar and the boys pulled two aged premium Napa Cabernets - Darioush and Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyards. 

Darioush “Signature” Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2000

Darioush was founded by Iranian-born entrepreneur Darioush Khaledi and his wife Shahpar who emigrated to the U.S. in 1976. Darioush Khaledi was born and raised in Iran, where his father made wine as a hobby.

He immigrated to the United States in the 1970s, and founded a successful grocery store chain called KV Mart. On their 20th wedding anniversary, they visited Napa Valley where they tried California wines for the first time, and decided to buy land and start a winery.

Their search for property ended in Napa’s southern valley in Altamura Winery’s old property in 1997 where Darioush and Steve Devitt chose to produce Bordeaux-styled wines in the cooler microclimates of Mount Veeder and Oak Knoll. 

Darioush makes Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot, Malbec, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir and a dessert wine.

We visited the winery during our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2003 winery visit and cellar tasting with winemaker Steve McDevitt. Their fabulous winery and tasting facility on Silverado Trail in southern Napa Valley was not yet open but was well under construction at that time. Tonight's wine selection was from the case we purchased during that visit. We then visited the newly opened winery during our Pour Boys’ Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2017, as featured in this blogpost - Darioush Napa Valley Estate Winery Visit & Tasting. It has become a "destination winery" in Napa for its dramatic Persian monumental architecture. The 22,000 square foot estate winery is both ostentatious and majestic.

During that recent 'Pour Boys' Sonoma/NapaValley Wine Experience when we visited several longstanding favorite producers including Darioush. This was fitting since we first discovered and tasted Darioush at Cress Creek Country Club (Naperville, IL)  with Bill and Beth C on our first wine event together more than a decade ago. 

And, Dr Dan was our guest at a special Darioush wine dinner at Everest in Chicago, shortly after our winery visit. The gala Darioush - Domaine de Chevalier Gala Winemaker dinner at Everest Restaurant in Chicago in the summer of 2004 was a fabulous private dinner hosted by Darius & Shaptar Kaledi of Darioush Winery and Bernard Laborie of Domaine de Chevalier celebrating their collaboration with Olivier Bernard and Domaine de Chevalier in Pesaac Leognan Bordeaux. Chef Joho prepared a special dinner featuring and complementing their wines poured by winemaker Steve McDevitt.


I mention this since we saw Bernard at the UGCB grand tasting of the 2010 Bordeaux release in Chicago this week and we reminisced about that evening. See my UGCB blogpost of that evening. There’s a parallel here as Bernard has turned over some of the management of Domaine de Chevalier to his son, a contemporary of son Ryan. The boys met at that UGCB grand tasting.

Darioush "Signature" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 

This remains a blockbuster wine, living up to the tone set by the large oversize, almost magnum size bottle packaging.

At twenty-four years, the label, foil and most importantly, the fill level and cork were ideal. This was still at the apex of its drinking window, showing no diminution from aging whatsoever, and showing prospect to age gracefully for several more years to come. 

This is blended from grapes grown on Mt. Veeder, Atlas Peak and the Napa Valley. It is a blend of Bordeaux varietals, 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. It was aged in 100% French oak barrels,

This release was rated 94 points by Wine Enthusiast in 2003. 

Winemaker Notes - “This intense Cabernet is from the Mt. Veeder appellation high above the Napa Valley floor. This mountain site, together with the 2000 vintage, which was characterized by a mild summer with cool evening temperatures, resulted in a wine of elegance and restraint. 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, aged in 100% French oak barrels, and bottled without filtration and with minimal handling, this is a pure example of terroir. Impressive with layered blackberry and cassis fruit and a long, explosive.”

Dark inky color, full bodied, complex and concentrated yet elegant, smooth and polished, layers of black currant, blackberry, plum, black cherry fruits with a layer of spicy cinnamon oak with tones of black tea, anise, tobacco leaf and dark chocolate and a hint of tar, with velvety smooth tannins with a long lush finish, 

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=551751   

http://www.darioush.com/

Constant "Diamond Mountain Vineyard" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

I featured our visit to the Constant Diamond Mountain Estate Vineyards and Winery in a more detailed blogpost back in 2011 and this wine in a 2020 blogpost - Diamond Mountain Wine Experience - Constant Vineyards & Winery, excerpted here.

Diamond Mountain Wine Experience - Constant Vineyards & Winery

Our visit to Diamond Mountain reached the 'summit' with a visit to Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyard and winery at the top of the mountain, sitting at over 2100 feet elevation. It also is among the oldest wineries in the valley with history dating back to the late 1800's.

Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyard was founded by Freddy and Mary Constant who established Diamond Mountain Vineyard in 1993 when they bought a dilapidated but historic farmhouse high on Diamond Mountain. 

At 2121 feet above sea level, it may be the highest, or certainly one of the highest, vineyards in the region where the cool Pacific breezes reach all the way through the Petaluma Gap. The couple had backgrounds as radio station entrepreneurs but set upon their plan on Diamond Mountain was to grow and sell grapes to winemakers. However with the 1995 vintage they started producing small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon under their own label. When Wine Spectator wrote in 1999 that Constant was “a new can’t miss Cabernet…this vineyard is able to produce stunning wines on a consistent basis.” they set about to Constant produces very small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Claret and Syrah from estate vineyards. 

I wrote about in these pages about our visit to the Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyard and this Napa Cabernet 2004 in detail back in 2020, excerpted here. 

Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

With the late Freddie Constant at the Constant
Diamond Mountain estate

We discovered and acquired this wine when we visited the spectacular picturesque Constant Vineyards estate high atop Diamond Mountain during our Diamond Mountain Appellation Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2011.

We still hold close to a case of Constant wines and tonight we were rewarded for being patient as this wine has developed very nicely. 

Our tasting and visit back then were hosted by proprietor Freddie Constant, founder and proprietor. Sadly, Freddie passed away in 2014. All of our group that were there remember him fondly and toast him each time we drink his wine. 

The Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyard sits at the peak of Diamond Mountain on the Mayacamas Range separating Napa Valley to the east and Sonoma Valley to the west and is one of the area’s highest, oldest, and smallest wineries in the region. At 2121 feet above sea level, it may be the highest, or certainly one of the highest, vineyards in the region. 

Constant Diamond Mountain Estate Vineyards

The Diamond Mountain District appellation, one of the smaller Napa wine districts, sits just south of and above the town of Calistoga in the northwest corner of Napa Valley.

The unique terroir and micro-climate at the very top of Diamond Mountain provides grapes with optimal sun exposure and elongated ripening periods, The sun drenched slopes with their rocky terrain and volcanic soil produce rich concentrated Bordeaux varietal fruit.

Today the area is home to some of the most notable and prestigious labels including the namesake label Diamond Mountain vineyards. Our afternoon on the mountaintop retreat was one of the more memorable settings from our many Napa Valley trips. 

The mountaintop land that would become Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyard was first settled in 1895 by Andras Rasmussen, a Danish immigrant. After working in the wine industry for 15 years at Talcoa Vineyard (now Hudson Vineyard in Carneros), at Summit Vineyard and Winery, and studying viticulture at UC Davis – Rasmussen purchased 120 forested acres atop Diamond Mountain, cleared about 30 acres himself, and planted the first grapevines at the summit.

The vines were abandoned in the 1920s and 1930s due to Prohibition.

Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyard was established by Freddy and Mary Constant in 1993 when they bought a dilapidated but historic farmhouse and set upon reestablishing the vineyards which by then were overgrown and wild.

The couple had backgrounds as radio station entrepreneurs but their plan on Diamond Mountain was to grow and sell grapes to winemakers. They believed they had a unique and spectacular plot of land capable of producing premium fruit and soon they were growing grapes for several of the best winemakers in the area.

The started producing small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon but their first vintage in 1993 was not to their standards and it was never released.  They released their first vintage in 1995 under the Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyard label. They proceeded to build a winery on the estate producing their wine under the Constant label and brand. In 1999 Wine Spectator wrote that Constant was “a new can’t miss Cabernet, this vineyard is able to produce stunning wines on a consistent basis.” The original winemaker was the notable Philippe Melka. With the 2009 vintage, Paul Hobbs took over as consulting winemaker.

Notably, we collect Philippe Melka wines to this day an featured his label at a recent business dinner.  

Freddie and Mary hired renowned architect Howard Backen who built a stunning house along with a tasting room hospitality center overlooking the valley floor with a full view of Mount St. Helena.

Freddy Constant died in 2014. In 2016, Aries Liu and Sai You became the property’s caretakers with the continued commitment to producing some of Napa Valley’s best Bordeaux varietals.

Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 

Back in 2020 I wrote, I believe this is the best, most memorable Constant Cabernet I have had and may be, at sixteen years of age, at the apex of its drinking profile and window. This remains the case four years later, here on the eve of 2025.

The blend includes small amounts of Cabernet Franc and Merlot. 

It was awarded 92 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate in 2014. Wine Enthusiast gave it 88 points. 

 

Deep garnet purple color, medium-full bodied, delicious concentrated but smooth and elegant and nicely balanced ripe blackberry and black raspberry fruits with hints of black currant, notes of cassis, spice, oak and graphite with rich silky refined tannins on a lingering finish.

RM 92 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=437961

https://www.constantwine.com/

Fine Dining at Hinsdale Prime Steak

Fine Dining at Hinsdale Prime Steak

Daughter Erin and Son-in-Law Johnny took us to dinner for a Christmas gift, and a joint celebration of our 50th Anniversary year and their 19th Anniversary this coming week(end). 

They took us to Hinsdale Prime Steak, just opened in September 2024 in the heart of tony Hinsdale, (IL) downtown across from the train station in what used to be the Corner Bakery. 

Owners Antonio Monroy and Ignacio Martinez, are Family and lifelong friends. Longtime hospitality industry veterans, they cite themselves as “Founders of ‘A groundbreaking take on timeless steakhouse’ with a commitment to quality and innovation in hospitality, offering the finest cuts of meat to ensure a remarkable dining experience for every guest”. 

Hinsdale Prime Steak Chef Javier Gomez has 30 years of culinary experience in Hotels, Private Clubs, Steakhouses, and French & Italian cuisine. He shares the owners’ commitment to quality and innovation towards ensuring that each meal at Hinsdale Prime Steak is an extraordinary experience.

Front of the house General Manager Cisco Cortez has thirty five years hospitality experience opening notable restaurants in Italian, French, and Mexican food.

Oscar Valencia Beverage Director, a wine enthusiast with 25+ years of combined experience in the hospitality business studied wines in Boulder Colorado.

Looking forward to a fine wine and dining experience, I pulled from our cellar two aged vintage ultra-premium labels from which to select one to pair with our dinner selections, both from the kids’ anniversary vintage year, the other a very rare single vineyard designated label from a prime western US vineyard with which we have a family connection. 

We were disappointed when advised they could/would not serve our BYOB. I admonished them that pre-opening press about the restaurant implied they were getting a BYOB license. Furthermore, they did not publish any wine list or wine policy. Lastly, for a prime upscale steak house, their wine list was quite limited, with a small selection of Bordeaux varietal wines on offer. They directed me to their “Gem’s” wine list, a select or ‘reserve’ list of ten ultra-premium labels at ultra-premium+ prices. 

In light of their limited wine list selections, which may be the reason they don’t publish it, we feel it’s extremely short-sighted and limiting to not entertain BYOB. It’s not about economics since it’s reasonable and customary to charge a corkage fee, which we are willing to pay, for the ability to enjoy a very special bottle for a special occasion. 

We admit we place a higher emphasis on wine when dining out, never-the-less, this will limit the number of times we’ll return, since enjoying special selections from our cellar is a big part of our dining experience. Naturally, we gravitate to and frequent establishments that offer such a service. 

In any event, we had planned to order at least one bottle, most likely a white if we ordered seafood, and eventually ordered tow bottles, a white and a red from their wine list.

Linda and I shared the chopped salad which was ample for them to split for us making it ideal. 

For a starter the kid’s ordered the Grilled Spanish Octopus with chickpea puree’,  heirloom tomatoes  and petite herb salad.

 

For my entree, I was pleased to see a New’s Year’s Eve Special menu which offered one of my favorite dishes, Sautéed Dover Sole with White Wine and Capers, served  with Sautéed Spinach, (below), which I gladly ordered. It was delectable.  I wrote about different variations of Sole, and similar delicate white fish in an earlier blogpost this fall. 

Erin also ordered another seafood dish from the menu, Chilean Seabass, which was equally delicious.. 

To pair with our dinners we ordered form the limited selection (only two Chardonnays offered), Far Niente Napa Valley Chardonnay. 

Johnny and Linda both ordered steaks, so, casting aside any hopes of pairing with our BYOB selection, we ordered from the rather limited wine list a Super Tuscan Bordeaux varietal red.

Far Niente Estate Napa Valley Chardonnay 2023

Far Niente is a well known, celebrated Napa Valley winery known for its exceptional premium Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, consistently recognized as a benchmark producer in the region. 

The 2023 Far Niente Chardonnay is crafted from a selection of premium Napa Valley vineyards located in the Coombsville AVA in the southeast corner of Napa Valley. 

These vineyards benefit from cool breezes that waft in from the San Pablo Bay, and well-drained soils, which contribute to the vibrant acidity and rich flavors of the wine. 

This was an ideal pairing with our seafood entrees. 

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes - “The 2023 vintage enchants with a beautiful bouquet of citrus, white florals, and subtle hints of honeydew melon and nectarine. On the palate, the wine opens with a silky texture that gives way to vibrant flavors of lemon-lime zest and lemon verbena. The bright, refreshing acidity lifts the fruit notes, leading to a long, juicy finish that leaves a lasting impression. Crisp minerality enhances the overall structure, supporting the generous fruit and ensuring a refined balance.”

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=5074907

https://farniente.com/

Linda ordered the eight ounce Filet Mignon while Johnny ordered the “Petite Brande”, an eight ounce filet with pepper crust, mushrooms and Madeira truffle sauce. Both were prepared perfectly and were superb. 

For pairing with the steaks, we ordered from the wine list this Bordeaux Blend Super Tuscan, 

For sides we ordered the Creamy Polenta and Creamed Spinach. Both were fabulous. 

Tenuta di Arceno Il Fauno Super Tuscan Red Blend 2021 

This is from Tenuta di Arceno, a historic Tuscan estate situated at the southernmost-edge of Chianti Classico in the butterfly-shaped commune of Castelnuovo Berardenga, closest in proximity to Siena and rightfully referred to as ‘the most Sienese Chianti Classico. The ancient walled town of San Gusmè, provides a picturesque backdrop for the vineyards of Tenuta di Arceno.

The estate covers 2,500 acres, of which 220 acres are planted to vines – the remaining land is preserved for native vegetation including 125 acres of olive orchards. Separated into 63 distinct vineyard blocks, the vineyards are planted to 50% Sangiovese and 50% international varieties such as Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. 

The estate produces a broad diverse portfolio of the high quality wines across two classification levels – three wines centered on the native Sangiovese grape in the Chianti Classico DOCG collection; and three wines celebrating the estate’s international varieties under the Toscana IGT designation. 

il fauno di Arcanum is a Bordeaux-style blend that embodies the diversity of the estate and is sourced primarily from the Arceno di Sotto, La Curva, Colombaio and San Giovanni blocks. Located in the lower southwest section of the estate, in a warmer, exposed subsection that ripens early, the soils possess a significant amount of clay, with good water retention, and produce wines that tend to be produce fruits that are more voluptuous and lush.

The branding of Tenuta di Arceno features a faun statue on the estate that has become the symbol for the winery. It inspired the name for il fauno, and is featured on the label. The faun itself is a being that is half human-half animal. The winery states,  “It expresses a duality into a unity – two natures in one body – in the same way that Tenuta di Arceno has embraced the dual expressions of DOCG and IGT wines into one style. It represents the coming together of two separately existing beings in the birth of something different – a new reality, derived from existing traditions, that represents greater possibility”.

This IGT designated release is a Blend of Bordeaux varietals, known as a ‘Super Tuscan’. It is a blend of 35% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Petit Verdot. It was aged in French oak, for 10-12 months. Production was 121,900 bottles.

It was rated 93 points by James Suckling.

Winemakers notes - “The nose showcases more earthy aromas than fruit, highlighting nutmeg, cypress and roses. On the palate, the entrance is supple with luscious mouth filling tannins and expresses flavors of black cherries, candied apples and licorice. This beautifully layered blend carries through to a long, spicy finish with hints of balsamic, cloves and white pepper.

Bright garnet colored, medium full bodied, expressive forward blackberry and black cherry fruits are accented with sprites of cigar box and cedar with notes of dark chocolate, tapenade, hints of pepper against a backdrop of soft oak with fine, dusty tannins extending to a long, solid finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4793129

https://www.tenutadiarceno.com/en/wine/toscana-igt/il-fauno-di-arcanum

We recommend Hinsdale Prime Steak Restaurant. The service was attentive and professional, and the food was fabulous. The wine list while quite limited is carefully selected, and the atmosphere is a bit noisy and boisterous with limited seating. The menu is creative and offers thirteen choices in steaks, chops and lamb, and ten choices in seafood, a chicken dish and two vegetarian options. There are ten side dish options of potatoes, polenta or vegetables. There is a selection of oysters, a half dozen salads and like number of starters. 

https://hinsdaleprimesteakhouse.com/menu/

Venge Silencieux for Christmas Eve dinner

Venge Silencieux for hearty festive Christmas Eve dinner - Silent One for Silent Night, Holy Night

Just returned from a family Christmas gathering in Conneticut, Alec, Vivianna and the girls joined us for a festive Christmas Eve dinner. 

Linda prepared a delicious hearty beef roast with potatoes, carrots, green beans and onions, with a garden salad and fresh brioche rolls.  

As is customary, when dining with Alec and Viv, I pulled from the cellar one of our ‘V’ collection of wines, having fun paying tribute to daughter-in-law Vivianna. 

Readers of these pages know about this tradition and how we can fulfill it with bottles from Venge Vineyards, or Viader, or some occasional others - Verite’, Vine Cliff, Varner …. 

This premium selection featured a large, oversized, heavy painted bottle, predominantly bearing the ‘V’ Venge Vineyards logo.

We feature Venge Vineyards often in these pages going back many years, and highlighting many family gatherings - 

Visit to Venge Vineyards and Nils Venge

Gala Family Celebration Dinner at Angelis Italian

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2017/12/venge-napa-valley-oakville-penny-lane.html

Venge "Silencieux" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 

We hold dozens of Venge labels dating back decades, and chose this large, heavy, oversized painted bottle for the occasion - and, selected the oldest of half a dozen vintages of this label, as part of cellar management. 

Silencieux 2011 was a big bold expressive Napa Cab, and proved an ideal pairing with the hearty beef meal. 

Venge describes this wine and the inspiration for the Silencieux (Silent One) name on the rear label, shown below - fitting for this Silent Night, Holy Night! 

This is 100% Cabernet that was blended by winemaker/producer Kirk Venge from five different vineyard sources in Oakville, Calistoga, Mount Veeder, Spring Mountain and Coombsville. Hence, a Napa Valley designation, but no further sub-classification single AVA granularity. (There are seventeen appellations (AVA’s) in Napa Valley. 

Reviewing my experience with this wine, and reading the pundit’s expressions, this is perhaps an object lesson in interpreting reviewers comments of a wine. Or perhaps I obsess, but that’s what makes these assessments fun!

Being a blend of no less than five different vineyards, perhaps its my imagination, but this seemed to be slightly obtuse, a cacophony of flavors, big, bold and forward, almost slightly aggressive in its boldness - but delicious nonetheless. 

I felt that at fourteen years in 2024, that it might need another couple years to integrate and settle, but alas, perhaps not. Time will tell but I suspect it’s at the peak of its tasting window and will not improve, or be tamed, with further aging. 

Wine Enthusiast, who rated it 93 points and anointed it a “Cellar Selection”, projected it to  “age effortlessly through at least 2021.” 

Wine Enthusiast noted further, “It makes you wonder why we obsess with single-vineyard bottlings.” And, more to that pint, it is available at a big discount to those single vineyard labels providing nice QPR - Quality Price Ratio. 

It was also rated 92 and 91 points by Wine Advocate and International Wine Cellar, respectively. 

Wine Advocate said, “The 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Silencieux is a much larger cuvee, …. Rich, concentrated, round and generous, this is a sumptuous Cabernet Sauvignon with no hard edges” Large and generous stand out in my purview, indeed, and I might disagree about the ‘hard edges’.  

International Wine Cellar referred to it as “Slightly high-toned … very good vinosity and serious length. Excellent for the vintage.“ Which ends on the point that 2011 was a slightly ‘off’ vintage in Napa Valley, and perhaps it’s simply that lack of perfection in the vintage that shows in this slightly less than stellar showing. 

Delicious, none-the-less, my words, which I later discover echo Wine Advocate sentiments -  … “but it is a delicious, reasonably priced Napa Cabernet Sauvignon that showcases Venge’s Midas touch with this varietal.” 

Dark, bright ruby-red, medium-full bodied, rich, concentrated, round, forward ripe black currant and blackberry fruits, highlighted by dark mocha, graphite, currant, clove spice, anise and sweet oak, with full round tannins and tangy acidity on the sumptuous finish. 

RM 92 points.   

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1678403

We also opened a Groth Birthyear Vintage Napa Cab which we featured in this follow on blogpost. Notably, winemaker for this wine was Nils Venge! 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2017/12/venge-napa-valley-oakville-penny-lane.html

http://www.vengevineyards.com/

https://twitter.com/VengeVineyards

@VengeVineyards 

@unwindwine @rickmcnees

Beau Vigne Reserve Napa Valley Proprietary Red 2022

Beau Vigne Reserve Napa Valley Proprietary Red 2022

Watching “The Sticky” series on Netflix, we had some of the leftover delicious beef tenderloin in avocado sandwiches. I opened this premium Napa Red Blend from a just received shipment that we were eager to try. This is another Big Red from another emerging interesting Napa producer who produces a wide portfolio of wines from estate and contract growers and purchased lot sources.

If the pedigree of the winemaker says anything, then Beau Vigne is in a distinguished class with 100-point winemaker Julien Fayard (Lafite Rothschild, Smith Haut Lafitte, Melka, Quintessa, Realm, Covert Estate), and where Dave Phinney was the founding winemaker! Note also, the collaboration with Philippe Melka, and contribution of another of our fav’s, winemaker Kirk Venge. 

I featured Beau Vigne in detail in a more extensive blogpost last summer - Beau Vigne Napa Valley Proprietary Red, and several other blogposts such as the one’s below.

The producer writes - “Our Napa Valley winery is devoted exclusively to making influential luxury Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Sauvignon Blends. Taking inspiration from our founding winemaker Dave Phinney who sought out to make red wines that would compete with the greatest wines of the world. This tradition was enhanced by the addition of winemaker Kirk Venge in 2008 through 2018/19 who obtained a perfect 100 Points from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. Present-day winemaking is now in the hands of Julien Fayard who hails from the legendary first growth Château Lafite-Rothschild and Atelier Melka before becoming the brilliant up and coming new winemaker in Napa Valley.”

Beau Vigne was taken over by Charles Bartlett when he purchased the brand in 2019 with the intent to carry on the dream created by Ed and Trish Snider, whom he has known for many years. Charles has worked in Napa since the late 1970s and has built a successful wine trading company, working with many of the top names in the mountain AVAs. 

Bartlettl hired Julien Fayard to establish and oversee modern practices in the vineyard and in the cellar. The release of beau Vigne CULT Cabernet Sauvignon, beacme one of Napa Valley’s most acclaimed labels with year-over-year 93 to 98 points from critics. Beau Vigne continues the tradition of hand-harvested grapes planted and grown on Atlas Peak, the Pritchard Hill region and other viticultural areas of Napa Valley including Howell Mountain, Oakville and Rutherford.

We featured our tastings from the Beau Vigne portfolio in these recent blogposts:  

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2022/10/beau-vigne-reserve-proprietary-red-wine.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2022/10/beau-vigne-proprietary-red-byob-at.html

Beau Vigne Reserve Napa Valley Proprietary Red 2022

This is a most recent limited release label from the BV collection such that even the CellarTracker inventory of a million labels and collection of several million tasting notes, doesn’t yet have any mentions! 

Unlike an earlier release of the same label back in 2013, this release doesn’t list the blend and is therefore presumed to be 100% Cabernet Sauvignon? 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2023/07/beau-vigne-napa-valley-proprietary-red.html

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, rich round ripe black berry and black currant fruits with spicy acidity, hints of graphite, bittersweet dark chocolate, cassis and black tea on a full lingering finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=5207604

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=5207604

https://www.beauvigne.com/

Gala family birthday celebration and Christmas Lights bus tour

Gala family birthday celebration and Christmas Lights bus tour, foods and some vintage wine

The family and friends gathered for a gala grand-daughter Millie’s birthday celebration.

All the grandkids/cousins were there … 

 Taking in the joyous holiday season, the evening culminated in a festive Christmas Lights bus tour to tour the neighbors and see the holiday lights decorations, …. 

And, the neighbors Taylor Swift holiday display! 

Alec and Viv prepared an extensive selection of artisan cheeses, chips and dips, Alec’s signature beef tenderloin sandwiches …. (Here with sibling, Erin) … 

… in addition to the grand birthday cake. 

Fun with wine! Alec served a medley of red and white wines. As is customary for such occasions, I took from our cellar a commemorative birthyear vintage wine to taste and share.

We served a horizontal selection of birthyear wines for Alec and Vivianna’s wedding celebration that included Silver Oak Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon for both their birthyear vintages as featured in these blogposts - 

Wedding Wines - Birthyear and Big Bottle Extravaganza Continues

We still hold several cases of their birthyear vintage wines and are working through them at occasions such as this. 

Birthyear vintage labels and large format bottles

Special Silver Oak Birthyear wines for Festive Holiday Open House

Tonight we brought Vivianna’s birthyear vintage from our collection … which is a bit more challenging since 1991 was a less than stellar vintage in Napa, especially when compared to Alec’s spectacular 1990 vintage year. 

Silver Oak Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1991

Earlier previous Producer notes for the Alexander Valley label; "The 1991 Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon has a dense, rich, crimson hue with slight bricking. The aromatics are complex and very interesting with notes of sandalwood, caramel, black pepper, cedar and strawberry fruit. It has a moderate entry, with espresso bean flavors and a finish buttressed by fresh acidity. On the finish, leather and Roquefort linger on the palate. Decanting recommended due to light sediment. Enjoy now."

Winemaker Notes: "The 1991 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon has a youthful glow, with an opaque crimson hue and no signs of bricking. It offers aromas of blackberry compote and sandalwood. It is a full-bodied wine upon entry, but is dominated by ample acidity and coffee flavors on the mid-palate. The finish has moderate length, lively tannins and flavors consistent with the mid-palate. Decanting suggested."

This label release was awarded 92 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, and  91 points by Wine Spectator, one of  their *Highly Recommended, Top 100 Wines of 1995*.

Currant Producer’s notes on this label release - “The 1991 Silver Oak Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon has a strong scarlet-red hue with no signs of bricking. The nose is somewhat muted and earthy but has inviting and interesting aromatics like new leather, dried ginger and cocoa beans. The entry is somewhat dilute and lower in acidity than most Silver Oak wines of the era but is broad and has depth along with cured meat and orange peel flavors. The mid-palate is layered and mouth-coating. This is not a huge wine but is bold and authoritative with strong tannins that still accent the long return. Decanting suggested due to moderate sediment. Enjoy now.”

At thirty three years, the label and foil were in good condition while the importantly fill level and cork will also still acceptable for their age. 

While understandably passed its prime optimal drinking window, this bottle is still holding on but is reaching its end of life and needs to be consumed. 

The dark garnet colored has taken on a slight brownish hue. Still medium to full bodied, the black berry and plum fruits are taking on a bit of tartness and giving way to spice, oak and non-fruit flavors or leather, smoke, and earthy tobacco, with moderate tannins on the lingering finish. 

RM 87 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=21346

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=25548 

https://silveroak.com/  

@SilverOak

Beau Vigne Old Rutherford Napa Cab

Beau Vigne Old Rutherford Napa Cab with Calogero’s Pizza 

Son Alec and D-in-law Viviana dined in the city at Juno Sushi in Lincoln Park, so we were called to grandparent babysitter duty. Alec arranged for pizza pick-up at Calogero’s Pizza, Naperville, their neighborhood pizza shop. He also set out a nice Napa Cab from his cellar for a wine pairing.

Calogero’s has become a regular dining experience when we serve at Alec & Viv’s. They take pride in their mission to create the highest quality food using only the best and freshest ingredients possible - certified imported Italian products and local fresh produce. All their meat comes from farm-fed, humanely raised cattle, toppings are 100% organic and arrive fresh daily. All of their cheeses are made from organic goat, sheep, cow and water buffalo milk, and the flour used to make their pizzas, breads and sweets are organic & imported from Italy.

The pizza and wine were wonderful - a perfect, delicious pairing with the arugula salad, bruschetta and the sausage and cheese pizza; ‘Bruschette al Pomodoro’ - wood fire bread with cherry tomatoes, basil, oregano, and evoo; ‘Salsiccia Pizze Rosse’ - Italian plum tomato sauce, basil, fresh mozzarella, fennel italian sausage, pecorino romano.

Beau Vigne “Old Rutherford” Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2020

This is a producer we know well as we hold a half dozen of their labels in our cellar (s) dating back nearly a decade. I featured this producer in detail in a blogpost last summer when we took their wine along on holiday - Beau Vigne Napa Valley Proprietary Red.

Ironically, we just ordered a half case of Beau Vigne wine earlier in the day from their just published winter releases.

As the producer exclaimed, “This is 100% Cabernet from a 100 Point Winery, a rare single vineyard designated label”. Old Rutherford is the sourced from the highly acclaimed Missouri Hopper Vineyard (known for year-over-year 96-99 point ratings). 

The producer writes, “The utmost rarity because you can’t always get this fruit (it’s an outright bidding war), and is reserved for some of the most expensive wines in Napa Valley.”

I wrote in a recent blogpost about getting ‘invested’ in a wine from a producer that doesn’t own or control their vineyard source (s). This is another such case, as the producer admits. 

While they call this wine “Old Rutherford”, the vineyard source is actually in the Napa Valley Oakville AVA. It is part of the iconic Beckstoffer Vineyard holdings. 

Located north of the town of Yountville in the Oakville AVA, Beckstoffer Missouri Hopper was originally part of a large piece of land owned by George C. Yount, from whom the town of Yountville takes its name. It is name for Charles Hopper who purchased it and gave it to his daughter Missouri in 1877. The land was planted to wine grapes, prunes and walnuts. 

In 1960, the land was purchased by Bruce Kelham as part of the historic Vine Hill Ranch and subsequently purchased by Beckstoffer Vineyards from the Kelham family in 1996. As noted in the release notes, the vineyard is today planted with multiple clones of Cabernet Sauvignon.

In 2002, the property was placed under a land conservation easement that forever prohibits non-agricultural development.

The total vineyard site is 46 acres of which 36 acres are planted to vines. 

Producer Notes - “The Old Rutherford project is a clonal micro-terroir look at different clones of Cabernet Sauvignon from the Rutherford Appellation. Our 2020 is a 50/50 blend of Clones 4 & 6. The fascinating thing is, this wine tastes young, with 10-15 years of aging potential. The integration is likely to become more apparent with 3 years of cellaring.”

Winemaker notes - “The 2020 Old Rutherford Cabernet displays an intense array of wild blackberry, boysenberry, blueberry jam and dark chocolate aromas. Its inky/ruby/purple color is accompanied by classic notes of dusty Rutherford and beautifully balanced French oak frame the dark berry flavors, with notes of graphite, cracked pepper, caramel, and blackberry adding depth to a long finish.”

Robert Parker’s assessment of Beau Vigne: “this winery is currently on a qualitative roll”, “wine that even eclipses the other fabulous wines in the Beau Vigne portfolio.’

This was delicious and exceeded my expectations. 

Dark ruby purple colored, medium full bodied, bright vibrant expressive sweet blackberry and boysenberry fruits accented by clove spice, graphite chalk from that famous ‘Rutherford Dust’, hints of bitter mocha dark chocolate and sweet oak on a smooth polished refined finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?4591751

http://www.beauvigne.com/

Garric Cellars Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Garric Cellars Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

I wrote in a recent blogpost about wines/labels from producers who purchase grapes and have hired winemakers produce their wines. And how this practice has lead to the proliferation in the number of producers and labels. While it may produce some interesting wines, these are not wines to get ‘invested’ in since many may prove to be ‘one hit wonders’, so to speak. 

This may be another such label, two enthusiasts who dip into the wine business, buying grapes and having a hired winemaker to produce their own label. Dare I call this a ‘vanity’ label? It is a name formed from the names of the co-proprietors. 

"The name 'Garric' combines the first names of co-proprietors and Chicago physicians Gary Ochwat, a foot surgeon, and Ricardo Cajulis, a pathologist. The two began dreaming of owning their own Cabernet label after their many trips to Napa Valley, and bought a home in Calistoga in 2002. The next year, they purchased grapes from two different vineyard sites to make their inaugural wine, a 2003, crafted by winemaker Pam Starr." 

MaryAnn Worobiec wrote in the November 2007 Wine Spectator, "20 Exciting New Cabernet Labels to Watch". I don’t subscribe to this hype and think Wine Spectator was short sighted to do so. Notable wine producers purchase vineyards and invest in building a brand promulgated on the terroir of the site. Indeed the great iconic brands cross multiple generations of family owned estates. 

That said, in any event, such labels can provide some great wines, but only time will tell if they last across multiple vintages so that they allow for comparisons from one year to the next. I’ve written in these pages about an earlier similarly situated Wine Spectator article about new producers that emerged with the 1994 vintage - Twenty New Producers, Hot New Labels to Watch, which formed our Napa wine discovery and pursuit and collecting for decades to follow! In retrospect, they all were founded on or ended up with estate wines from vineyard holdings. 

Garric first appeared in 2003, seemed to hit their stride with this 2007 and near vintages, but disappeared from the scene in 2016. 

CellarTracker, with its vast number of collectors’ inventory of millions of bottles is a valid testament of a producer’s and label’s presence. The CellarTracker mentions of Garric Cellar wines shows 23 labels across five wines from 2002 to 2014. A couple were only produced in one or three vintage years, with this Garric Cabernet (their ‘flagship’) label showing a dozen continuous vintages. (From CellarTracker - “CellarTracker is the leading cellar management tool with hundreds of thousands of collectors tracking more than 158 million bottles. CellarTracker has also grown to become the largest database of community tasting notes with 10 million such notes as of early 2023.”) 

My CellarTracker record shows I purchased this 2007 vintage release from Binny’s Beverage Depot, the Chicagoland big box wine superstore, in 2010, so they had a sufficient distribution presence. Published records indicate they produced 545 cases of this release. 

The Garric Cellars website and domain name are dark, hence the brand has for intents and purposes disappeared completely.

Garric Cellars GRX Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

At seventeen years, the label, foil and most importantly, the fill level and cork were in pristine condition. This wine had another decade of life remaining in its prime drinking window. 

Never-the-less, this was enjoyable drinking for the evening. From the winemaker: "2007 gave us a beautifully concentrated wine with soft velvety tannins. Bright purple black color. The nose shows off layered complexity, loaded with aromas of sweet blueberries, currants and black cherries with a hint of caramel and vanilla. In the mouth, the wine reveals flavors layered with sweet blueberries, cassis, plums and black cherries. The wine is chewy and has great balance with a long luscious finish. The wine can be approached early with decanting, yet will age effortlessly for 15+ years. This is undoubtedly the most profound Garric to date!"

545 cases were produced

We enjoyed this with winter comfort food chili dinner and a selection of artisan cheeses.

Dark blackish garnet colored, medium to full bodied, full round bright vibrant concentrated black berry plum and black currant fruits were accented with sprites of spice, cassis and tobacco leaf with chewy grainy tannins on the lingering finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?862654

www.GarricCellars.com

Juslyn Napa Valley Perry’s Blend Cabernet

Juslyn Napa Valley Perry’s Blend Cabernet 2002

With delicious grilled tenderloin beefsteaks and avocado sandwiches I pulled from the cellar this two decade old aged Napa red blend. 

This is from Juslyn Vineyards, founded and developed by Perry and Carolyn Butler back in 1997 when their dream became a reality and they sold their Silicon Valley tech business and purchased and moved to the Spring Mountain estate. 

The British ex-pats had moved from the UK to California to start the IT company in the mid-1980's. During weekend trips to Napa Valley they developed a passion for wine and the wine country lifestyle that Napa Valley offered.

They bought a picturesque 42-acre property located slightly above historic Spring Mountain Vineyard winery. The land was once a small parcel of the 540 acres that California wine pioneer Charles Krug originally acquired as the dowry of Caroline Bale, who he married in 1860. 

The site sits near another one of our favorite producers, Fantesca Vineyards and Winery, near the bottom of Spring Mountain, just above the town of St Helena. 

The Butlers set about having a villa and gardens built, along with a winery facility, which Butler named Juslyn, for daughter Justine and wife Carolyn. 

Butlers were IT (information technology) people with no expertise in the wine business other than Butler trained as a chef in England. They turned to Renteria Vineyard Management, led by Salvador and Oscar Renteria, who produced outstanding grapes for many prestigious Napa Valley vineyards to select the most appropriate varieties for the vineyards and develop them to produce the highest quality fruit.

They set about to develop vineyards in the rocky soils of the Spring Mountain estate replanting old abandoned vineyards with Bordeaux varietals - 90% Cabernet Sauvignon with small amounts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.

Upon moving to Napa Valley, the Butler’s met Art Finklestein (the founder of Judd’s Hill Winery). He made several home vintages for them. Still several years away from the maturation of their estate vineyard, in 1998 and for several years following, they purchased grapes for their early vintages until their first commercial release in 1998. 

Long time Napa winemaker, Craig MacLean was their founding winemaker. They eventually hired Brian Kosi as winemaker. A graduate of the University of California-Davis, Kosi’s career includes positions at Acacia Vineyard, Opus One, Plumpjack Winery, Beaulieu Vineyard and Freemark Abbey. 

The first wine produced under their ownership from their property was in 2000. Their first Estate Cabernet release in 2000 was a mere 80 cases, increased in 2001 to 170 cases, a wine that displayed elegance in the style of premier cru Bordeaux. Each Estate vintage increased production and improved, growing over the following two decades to about 3 tons/acre from the 8-acre hillside vineyard. 

Located in the Spring Mountain District AVA, one of the very best growing regions in the Napa Valley, grapes produced in this AVA are sold at a premium price. Average grape price in Napa Valley is around $7,000/ton; in 2017 the Juslyn owners were offered $20,000 per ton for their Cabernet Sauvignon grapes.

Stephanie DeMasi joined their small team in 2003 and worked with the Butlers as General Manager  until 2019. She answered an ad that Perry and Carolyn had placed for a General Manager. Her prior local wine experience involved working with Cathy Corison (well-regarded Corison Winery) and helping launch the Bounty Hunter Wine Shop in the city of Napa. She progressed to also become a partner in the brand.

The Juslyn Vineyards Perry’s Blend was sourced from both their Spring Mountain estate vineyards and some of the most highly regarded vineyards in Napa Valley. The Butler’s met Andy Beckstoffer owner of several legendary vineyards in the early years during their visits to Napa, and arranged to source fruit for this wine from some of Beckstoffer’s heritage vineyards including To Kalon, Dr. Crane and Georges III. 

Initially they simply called the wine, “Napa Blend”. During a visit to the property, wine pundit Robert Parker advised that he thought this name was too generic. Despite the fact that they had already submitted the wine to the TTB for approval, Parker wrote about it in his Wine Advocate newsletter and referred to it as “Perry’s Blend”. Calls immediately came into the winery asking for that wine and the name stuck … notably a tribute to both Mr. Parker and Perry. In later years, the wine was sourced entirely from their Spring Mountain estate fruit.

The Justyn estate was in recent years listed for sale. It was represented as “40 + acres - 6 acres planted to very high quality vines which, due to their close spacing, produce very high quailty yields that are more like 16 acres; plus an additional 4 acres that can be planted”.

The Juslyn Vineyards Wine business at the time held approximately $7.0M in inventory (2 vintages of casked wine and current vintage wine in bottle) plus about $1m plus hanging on the vines for the then current 2021 vintage.

I both hate it and love it that while trolling down in our wine cellar for a nice red blend to enjoy with grilled tenderloin beefsteaks, I come across this vintage aged wine. 

Juslyn Perry's Blend Napa Valley Red Wine 2002

This release was awarded 93 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, and 91 points by Wine Enthusiast. 

The 2002 Perry’s Blend was 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Cabernet Franc, 2% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot.

At 22 years of age, the label and foil, and most importantly the fill level and cork were in pristine condition. 

Dark ruby colored with a slight grayish brownish hue settling in showing a slight diminution from aging, past its prime but sill enjoyable and should remain in drinking window for a couple more years; medium to full bodied, the black raspberry and black currant fruits were offset with notes of wood, leather, black tea and hints of cedar with moderate tannins on the lingering tangy acidic finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://juslynvineyards.com/

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=274387

https://juslyn.com/

Frisson Napa Valley Atlas Peak Cabernet Sauvignon

Frisson Napa Valley Atlas Peak Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

We were invited to son Alec and Vivianna’s for dinner on their return from their holiday with the in-laws in Naples. With pizza, to watch our Alma Mater Indiana demolish our perennial rival Purdue in what may be called the Route 66 Game (IU 66 - PU-0), Alec opened from his cellar this Napa Valley Atlas Peak Cabernet that he picked up at one of the on-line retailers. 

This is from Frisson, a producer I’ve never heard of, which is not surprising given the proliferation of producers and labels over the last several years - from 300 to over 500. Of course with the finite amount of vineyards lands, and strict restrictions on development, there are many dollars chasing the limited supply of wine grapes from the now seventeen different Napa Valley Appellations, and non-designated sites. 

Naturally most vineyard land owners and contract growers have established distribution in place for their brands and product. Many of these new producers lack their own vineyard sources so they end up buying excess or available fruit in the marketplace. I’ve written in the past about the dynamics of getting ‘invested’ in such brands. These are not for collectors who relish in vertical collections, comparing wines from a single site across multiple vintages. This may not be possible if the producer has limited access to a site source, or purchased a one-of or limited duration supply of fruit. 

Also, caveat emptor, that a vineyard owner will want to maximize production in a stellar vintage, holding as much fruit as possible to leverage their brands, and established distribution. Where as, in a lesser vintage, they may choose to liquidate (*) their inventory to other producers, so as not to dilute (* - puns intended) their own brand with substandard, marginal, or less than stellar fruit. 

This is not to say that some fabulous wines are not available from such producers. And, many well known labels and brands rely on contract growers for their fruit, through long term established supplier agreements - Lewis Cellars, and Freemark Abbey with their Bosche’ Vineyard label as prime examples.     

With that said, this producer, Terry Davis, writes, “Frisson is a French word meaning a moment of intense excitement, a thrill; a word which aptly describes our story and philosophy.’

“One evening we met a winemaker who shared our philosophy and vision – to make truly fine wines that exemplify the energy of the New World, honed with the sophistication of the Old World approach. Our Frisson began!’

“After purchasing a prized allocation of 2007 Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon grapes our journey as vintners came to life.”

This is another collaboration of entrepreneur/investor and winemaker. (See my most recent blogpost of similarly situated collaboration on a Washington State premium label). 

The Frisson website continues, excerpted here; - “Like about everyone else who has come to Napa Valley, Terry Davis dreamed for years about becoming a part of the Napa Valley world of wine.”

“He met Wayne Donaldson, winemaker, (who) told him of his desire to make a great Cabernet. Terry said if he came across the right grapes he would give him a call.”

The story continues … “Next thing Terry knew, he and some friends had bought three tons of Diamond Mountain grapes. One of his partners said, “Let’s get this straight… you don’t know a damn thing about making wine, just met this guy and you want me to invest? Do you think I’m crazy? I’m in!”’

CellarTracker records show no less than fifty different labels from this producer dating back to the 2010 vintage. 

The Frisson website identifies no less than three winemakers; “Morrisey, a former student of New York University’s elite film school, spent ten years in show business as an electrician and cameraman before choosing to reinvent himself and try his hand at winemaking. While attending graduate school at the University of California, Davis, he secured a harvest internship at Château Pétrus in Bordeaux in 1997. He later worked under famed Napa Valley winemaker Tony Soter, founder of Etude Winery, who helped him refine his approach.”

Another, Winemaker Paul Colantuoni crafted the Frisson 2018 Yountville Label. He gained experience at Rocca Vineyards, where he crafts their Yountville wines.

Ryan Woodhouse, Wine Buyer for well regarded and established Bay Area Wine Retailer K&L wrote about the Frisson Rutherford label: “As it says on the back of this bottle: "Frisson - noun: a sudden strong feeling of excitement or fear; a thrill." Despite not knowing this word previously, it quite accurately described how I felt when I saw the vineyard sourcing for this wine...and the price! The 2019 Frisson Rutherford Cab is sourced 65% from Georges III Vineyard and the remaining 35% from Melrose Vineyard! A fabulous, rich, ripe, modern Cab from one of the most famed vineyards in all of Napa for this price!?”

This label we tried tonight is from Napa Valley Atlas Peak. If was awarded  91 points by The Wine Advocate, and 90 points by James Suckling.

Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, black berry and black cherry notes with nots of cedar, vanilla, spice and herbs turning to firm but approachable tannins on a lingering finish. 

RM 90 points. .

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?3845886

https://www.frissonwines.com/