Ducru Beaucaillou Birthyear Vintage

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou St Julien Bordeaux 1985 Birthyear Vintage

Celebrating son Sean's engagement to Michelle, Linda prepared a special dinner and I pulled from the cellar a special birthyear vintage bottle of this premium Bordeaux to celebrate. We hold more than a dozen vintages of Château Ducru-Beaucaillou dating back three decades including each of our kid's and their spouse's birthyears dating back to 1980.

Our visit to Château Ducru-Beaucaillou was one of the highlights of our trip to St Julien Bordeaux this summer where we had a personal tour and barrel sampled the current 2018 vintage.

Tonight we opened a 1985 vintage release to accompany Linda's dinner of grilled beef tenderloin, baked potatoes, cauliflower and fried onions and mushrooms. The pairing of the wine was perfect, especially with the mushrooms.

Our thirty-five year old bottle was in perfect condition with acceptable above neck fill level and a partially saturated but still intact cork. The provenance of the bottle dates back to acquisition upon the vintage release and being held in our cellar ever since. This is another testament to our cellar conditions for long term aging of fine wines.

As is my custom, I used an "Ah-so" two pronged cork puller to extract the cork and believe it may not have come out intact using a tradition cork screw.

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou St Julien Bordeaux 1985

Even at thirty years old, this was delicious, still at the apex of its drinking window and likely suitable for another decade of aging, showing no diminution whatsoever. It drank like a nicely aged ten year old! A testament to the age-worthiness of fine vintage Bordeaux.

Thirty years after acquisition we are being rewarded for buying Bordeaux during the 1980's, although, regretably, we have learned we consumed much of our collection to early and too young back in the nineties. We still hold several cases of this producer from the string of top vintages from 1981, 82, 83, 85, 86, 88, 89 and 1990 and are now enjoying these special vintage bottles on special occasions, such as tonight.

We also still hold several of these vintages in large format magnum (1.5l) and double magnums (3.0l). Our collection of large format birth year wines was the basis for our cellar being featured in Wine Spectator Collecting column back in June 2001.

To commemorate our visit to the Chateau, we recently conducted a vertical tasting of several vintages of Château Ducru-Beaucaillou with our 'Pour Boys Winers and Diners' wine group.

Looking back at critics' reviews for this release, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate wrote of this release in 2003, "the 1985 Ducru-Beaucaillou has a floral, cedary nose intermixed with red and black currants as well as flowers. The wine is fully mature and soft, with beautiful concentration and purity. It is not a blockbuster, and certainly not nearly as powerful and massive as the 1986, but it is certainly much more seductive." Parker gave the 1985 Ducru 92 points.

In 1996, James Suckling of Wine Spectator wrote, "Seductive and beautiful. Minty, rich and fruity aromas and flavors caress the palate and tickle the throat. Medium- to full-bodied, with super firm tannins and a long, silky finish. Drink now or hold; will improve with age."

The Zachy's wine team tasted this vintage release more recently and wrote, "We had this wine over dinner while in Bordeaux tasting the 2014s - easily one of the highlights of the entire trip. Perfectly mature and is currently drinking the way Bordeaux was intended to be consumed - with age and enough sweet fruit to complement the tertiary development. This wine is all about elegance, no hard edges, classic St Julien cedar, truffle, and damp earth are joined by tobacco and cinnamon. Tongue-staining, long finish. It is a wine that transports you back to old world style claret, where the wine doesn't clobber at 12.5% alcohol. It is truly a special treat to have this wine with this provenance and condition." Zachys Notes 95 Points, Zachys Buying Team. Zachy's wine mcrchant  show they hold this vintage release in stock available for purchase.

All those characteristics remain today as this releases holds on into its fourth decade.

Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, muted aromas on the nose but elegant, balanced and full flavored, bright and expressive on the palate with black currant fruits accented by sensuous floral, cedar, tobacco leaf, hints of damp earth with super firm tannins and a long, silky finish.

RM 93 points.

We hold a few more bottles of this release in a mixed case from the era and look forward to opening them in the coming year as we celebrate with family, friends, Sean and Michelle.

Like Zachys above, K&L Wine Merchants in the Bay Area, where we acquired much of this wine during the 1980's are showing they hold this vintage release wine in stock.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=17635

http://chateau-ducru-beaucaillou.com/

@DucruB #stJulien #medoc #bordeaux #GrandCruClasse1855

Château Ducru Beaucaillou 1989

Château Ducru Beaucaillou St Julien Bordeaux 1989

Following our recent visit to Bordeaux and Château Ducru Beaucaillou, we opened a special birth year bottle of the top ranked Second Growth St Julien from our cellar. Fellow Pour Boy and wine buddy Bill, and Beth, were visiting from Charleston so we selected a bottle from their son Matt's birth year vintage of which we hold a case that we acquired back upon release.

Our visit to the historic Château was one of the highlights of our trip to the St Julien Appellation. We hold more than a dozen vintages of this label and consider it one of the stalwarts of our cellar, designated as one of the 'signature' wines that we collect for a vertical collection of our kids' birth year vintages. As such we're still holding bottles from the 1981, 1982, 1985 and 1990 vintages, and several in between and many since. We also hold some large format bottles in magnums and 3.0 liter double magnums of the label that should provide for longer term aging.

Château Ducru Beaucaillou St Julien Bordeaux 1989

Like our recent tasting of the 1985 release of this wine, a testament to the longevity of this wine. It is still available at K&L Wineshop in the (SF) Bay Area (for $179), and as Clyde Beffa on staff there notes, "Quite big for the vintage, but has softened up quite a bit in recent years. Good value."

Like the 1985 that we tasted recently, this is also drinking very nicely and doesn't come across as a 30+ year old in the least.

The capsule, label, and cork were all in perfect condition, like new. The fill was into the neck. No signs whatsoever of diminution from age. 

Tonight was consistent with my notes from a decade and a year ago. Garnet color - medium-light delicate body; floral perfume, black cherry and berry fruits with layers of anise, tobacco and black tea and a hint of leather, with floral continuing on a modest tannin finish. Still has some years left but assuredly not likely to improve with further aging.

RM 91 points.

Wine Spectator gave this release a rating of 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1625 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/08/ducru-beaucaillou.html

@DucruB

A visit to Château Ducru Beaucaillou

Visit to Château Ducru Beaucaillou St Julien Bordeaux

A highlight of our trip to the St Julien Appellation (AOC) of Bordeaux was a visit to Château Ducru Beaucaillou. This is one of the 'super second' labels of Bordeaux, one of fifteen Deuxièmes Crus (Second Growths) as set forth in the original Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855.

This label is one of the key holdings in our cellar collection consisting of more than a dozen vintages spanning three decades dating back to 1980 including the birth year vintages of each of our kids, 1981, 1982, 1985 and 1990. We hold many vintages in large format bottles including 3 liter double magnums from which we served son Ryan's 1982 birth year vintage at his and daughter-in-law Michelle's wedding.

In addition to our visit at Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou,  our spectacular week in St Julien also included visits to our other favorite St Julien producers, Second Growth producers Léoville du Marquis de Las Cases,  Gruaud Larose and Léoville-Poyferré, as well as Fourth Growths Château Beychevelle and Château Branaire-Ducru.

Leading up to our visit, we opened a special birth year bottle 1985 Château Ducru Beaucaillou from our cellar for son Sean's birth year vintage of which we acquired a case upon release as part of a horizontal collection of different producer's releasea from the vintage to commemorate his birth year. Upon our return we opened a 1989 release to relive the experience of our visit. 

As I've written in these pages, we reached out to a very small select set of St Julien producers to visit during our trip and Ducru Beaucaillou was on that short list, so we were delighted in their prompt response and invitation to visit. As is our custom on wine region trips, learned from many trips over many years, its important to focus and not over schedule. Too many folks try to see areas that turn out to be far apart, and they spend much valuable time in transit, or worse, arrive late for cherished appointments. As such, we learned to focus on just one appellation per trip, set priorities ahead of time, and schedule only key activities based on objectives for the trip.

Ducru Beaucaillou is one of the oldest wine producing estates in the Medoc dating back to the start of the 13th century. The earliest period of it being a working Bordeaux vineyard, it was owned by the  Bergeron family from 1720. In its earliest days it consisted of the current property as well as the adjacent properties that today make up Chateaus Beychevelle and Branaire Ducru The property was split up over the years following the French Revolution in the early 19th Century.

Ducru Beaucaillou right - Beychevelle left

Like many Bordeaux estates, it is named for one its early owners, Bertrand Ducru, who purchased the estate in 1795. The other part of the name comes the special soils along the Gironde River estuary that are covered with large pebbles or stones. Hence, beaucaillou, which means "beautiful stones" that make up the distinctive terroir on the property, that which defines the place and its effect on growing wine grapes - soil, micro-climate, sun exposure, etc.

As with the case of some of the other similarly situated properties, the stones serve to protect the soil, provide extraordinary drainage, and act to reflect the heat from the sun upon the grapes, and hold the heat into the night so as to extend their ripening time.

Ceremonial souvenir engraved
'ducru beaucaillou'

The vineyards run along the Gironde River and the proximity to the river that created the wide diversity of soils, formed over various geological periods, helps create the terroir that is St Julien. Besides the gravelly soil, the temperate waters of the river estuary and the nearby Atlantic Ocean create a moderating special micro-climate that enables very early ripening of the grapes and protects the vineyards from frost. The incomparable terroir gives St Julien wines their distinctive character and personality.

This proximity to the river with the combination of geology and climatic effects influences the growth of the vines, coupled with appellation compliance restricted water supply and a very low intake of nutrients, all contribute to bringing out the best in the fruit for making highest quality wines.

The origins of Château Ducru-Beaucaillou date back to the early 18th century, when the Bergeron family acquired it in 1720.

Bertrand Ducru purchased the estate in 1795 and added his name to the property that became Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou. Ducru hired the well known Parisian architect, Paul Abadie, who designed the core of the magnificent chateau that remains on the property to this day, and also built the barrel aging cellar. The towers at each end were added later. The vineyards were also upgraded during this time.

In 1866, after more than seven decades, Ducru Beaucaillou was sold to Lucie Caroline Dassier for one million Francs, a substantial sum at the time. Dassier was the wife of Nathaniel Johnston, a  famous Bordeaux wine merchant and negociant. 

Negociants are merchants who buy grapes, juice, or finished wine from growers, then bottle and sell them on the market. Some negociants are known for selling some of the finest wines on the market. In the early days, the role of the negociant was to take on the expenses of bottling so that farmer growers could focus on doing what they do best: growing grapes.

Nathaniel Johnston replanted the vineyards and modernized the cellars with the aid of manager Ernest David.

Catastrophic losses from the 1929 depression forced the Johnston family to sell Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou.  The property was taken over by the Desbarats family, successful Bordeaux wine merchants. They eventually sold the estate to Francis Borie in 1941.

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou was purchased by Francois Borie in 1941 and has remained in the family ever since.

The Borie family had extensive roots in the Bordeaux region dating back to the late 1800’s when they started out as negociants.

Francois Borie was succeeded by his son, Jean Eugene Borie in 1953. His son Francois Xavier Borie began working at the estate full time in 1978, eventually taking over from his father after his passing in 1998.

A new underground cellar for fermentation and aging was built in the late 1990s.

Entrance to new cellar facility

The new cellar barrel room

In 2003, Bruno Borie took the helm and remains to this day proprietor and overseer of Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou and all the associated businesses and brands. Bruno serves as CEO of Jean Eugène Borie SA, which is owned by the family, his mother, Mrs Borie, his sister Sabine Coiffe and him. They serve as the third generation of the Borie family to head the estate.

As a family owned property, the family lives in the Chateau that is the center of the property and iconic symbol of the estate and brand. As is the custom in Bordeuax, the chateau adorns the label of the grand vin, the signature premier wine of the property, reserved only 'estate' wines, those comprised of grape grown on the property. The two branches of the family live in the two halves of the Chateau with its two towers at each end. It has served as the family residence for over sixty years. 

The Ducru Beaucaillou Chateau, bureau and residences

The magnificent Ducru Beaucaillou Victorian-style chateau castle that adorns the label of the grand vin is one of the great symbols of the Médoc. It sits on an exceptional site in the center of a hundred-year-old park with incomparable views over the Gironde estuary below and the surrounding vineyards. It sits back far off the D2 route just outside the village of St Julien-Beychevelle and can be seen from many views from vineyards along the D2 route and beyond across the St Julien appellation. 

 

Beneath the Chateau are the original historic barrel cellars which today also double as an art gallery, along with art gallery display, tasting and hospitality rooms. The tasting room is sheltered from the sun by large rolling steel shutters that when opened reveal views looking out onto the magnificent formal garden and the river in the distance. 

 

The old historic cellar under the Chateau

The Borie family also owns Bordeaux estate Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste and Château Haut-Batailley in Pauillac, and in St Julien, Bruno Borie and his sister Sabine Coiffe manage Chateau Lalande Borie which takes its name from the family ownership dating back to the elder John Eugene Borie. Chateau Lalande as it is also known is a relatively new estate in the Medoc. The vineyard was initially created when the Borie purchased 44 acres of vines from Chateau Lagrange in 1970, and another 30 acres from various other growers. The vineyards are located in the western part of the St. Julien appellation, situated in the vicinity of Chateau Lagrange, Chateau Talbot and Chateau Gruaud Larose.

Ducru Beaucaillou's vineyards consist of 123 acres of well-drained gravelly soils along the D2 in the village of St Julien-Beychevelle and extending down towards the river. Interestingly, the vineyards  stop several hundred meters from the river, giving way to wheat fields and pastureland, due to the change in soil topology.

The vineyards are planted in Cabernet Sauvignon (70%) and Merlot (30%) with the vines averaging 38 years of age in 2005. Earlier plantings of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot were uprooted and replaced.

Ducru Beaucaillou produces two wines. The flagship grand vin called Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, and Croix de Beaucaillou, a second wine introduced in 1995. This allows the finest lots to be dedicated to the grand vin and lesser-quality lots relegated to the second label. This practice of having two tiered labels in the brand is customary with all the notable producers in the Medoc.

All the Ducru wines are aged for 18 months in 50% to 80% new oak barrels, depending on the richness of the vintage. The batches are racked every three months to remove sediment and to top off the barrel filling in the void of evaporation. These regular toppings-up are carried out during the first six months of ageing. The wines are racked from the bottom of the barrels every three months for a total of seven rackings during the ageing period. They are then fined with egg whites, lightly filtered, and then bottled. Bottling takes place in a sterile atmosphere under inert gas.

During bottling, only the highest quality, all natural corks are used. These are 54 mm long.  The bottles are then engraved with the Ducru-Beaucaillou name, laser etched, and a hologram is embedded into the label, for purposes of maintaining the integrity of the brand, providing enhanced traceability and thwarting counterfeiting.

Racking the barrels - the 2018 vintage

We witnessed them racking the barrels and as a result were able to taste a barrel sample from the 2018 vintage. It was spectacular. The final selection was carried out in the first quarter of 2019. This wine will be aged 18 months in new oak barrels made from certified French oak, dried naturally outdoors.

We toured the lower level of the Chateau, the historic barrel rooms, the new fermentation and barrel room facility, the galleries, hospitality center and tasting room, and the surrounding grounds and gardens.

We were treated to a tasting flight of each of the Borie labels, the flagship grand vin Ducru Beaucaillou 2006, Croix de Beaucaillou, 2012, and Lalande Borie 2014, in addition to the barrel sample of the 2018 Ducru we tasted in the chai.

 

What a spectacular setting and honor to walk the hallowed grounds of Ducru-Beaucaillou.

Big bottle delight - Sovereign - equals two cases

We were reminded of our wonderful visit there throughout the rest of the week as the Chateau seemed to be in the background of so many of our views of the surrounding vineyards of neighboring properties and estates.

 

@DucruB #stJulien #medoc #bordeaux #GrandCruClasse1855

http://chateau-ducru-beaucaillou.com/  

Château Ducru Beaucaillou 1985

Château Ducru Beaucaillou St Julien Bordeaux 1985

Leading up to our visit to Bordeaux and Château Ducru Beaucaillou, we opened a special birth year bottle of the top ranked Second Growth St Julien from our cellar. We selected a bottle from son Sean's birth year vintage of which we hold a case as part of a horizontal collection of different producer's release from the vintage to commemorate his birth year vintage.

Our visit to the historic Château was one of the highlights of our trip to the St Julien Appellation. We hold more than a dozen vintages of this label and consider it one of the stalwarts of our cellar, designated as one of the 'signature' wines that we collect for a vertical collection of our kids' birth year vintages. As such we're still holding bottles from the 1981, 1982, 1985 and 1990 vintages, and several in between and many since. We also hold some large format bottles in magnums and 3.0 liter double magnums of the label that should provide for longer term aging.

We opened this bottle for a family dinner with Sean and son Ryan and the rest of the family over for a bar-b-que dinner.

Château Ducru Beaucaillou St Julien Bordeaux 1985

A testament to the longevity of this wine. It is still available at K&L Wineshop in the (SF) Bay Area (for $199), and as Clyde Beffa on staff there notes, "This 30 year old wine is less expensive than the 2009 or 2010 and you can enjoy it right now."

Indeed, this is drinking very nicely and doesn't come across as a 30+ year old in the least.

The capsule, label, and cork were all in perfect condition, like new. The fill was into the neck. No signs whatsoever of diminution from age. 

Dark garnet-colored, medium- to full-bodied, Parker describes it as "a wine of extraordinary charm and elegance", a floral, cedary nose with red and black currants, plum, notes of spice and cassis, firm tannins on a long, smooth silky finish. Still has some years left but assuredly not likely to improve with further aging.

RM 92 points.

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate gave this release a rating of 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=17635

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/08/ducru-beaucaillou.html

@DucruB

Super Second Bordeaux vs. Napa's Finest Bordeaux Blends

Super Second Bordeaux vs. Napa's Finest Bordeaux Blends

For a drop in dinner at Dr Dan's, he prepared a wonderful meal of grilled T-bone steaks with grilled vegetables and an extraordinary selection of top ranked super second Bordeaux and Napa blends. The impressive line-up of wines included several of my favorite producers including two of our designated signature wines for our son, Ryan - Château Figeac and Ducru Beaucaillou. We collected and offered each of these wines in large format from his birth year vintage at his wedding.

Other favorite labels that Dan pulled from his cellar were Lewis Cellars Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Beaulieu Vineyards Tapesty, and Dominus Estate Napa Red Blend. What a treat to sample such a lineup!

Prior to dinner Dan offered a selection of artisan cheese and fresh fruit.

He then prepared and served a grilled scampi shrimp appetizer dish (shown left).

For dinner, Dan grilled t-bone steaks and a medley of grilled vegetables - asparagus, portabello mushrooms, avocado and grilled fresh peaches (shown below-left).

With the entree course Dan also served sweet corn on the cob. The portabello mushrooms were an ideal complement to the red wines.

We started with Château Figeac, a merlot based right bank Bordeaux Blend, followed by the Ducru and then the Dominus, a Bordeaux producer's left bank Bordeaux style red blend from Napa.

Following the Dominus we pivoted to two other Napa Valley Cabernets - Lewis Cellars Reserve, and finishing with the BV Tapestry Reserve red blend.



Château Figeac St Emilion Bordeaux 2010

We served this wine from a double magnum of this producer at son Ryan's wedding from the 1982 vintage. We hold and vertical collection of this label as well as it being part of a horizontal selection of Bordeaux from his birth year vintage.

True to the style of the Merlot based blend, this was an appropriate opening wine, a bit softer and more approachable easier drinking than the Cabernet predominant blends.

The blend of this right bank Bordeaux is 35% Cabernet Franc, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot.

Deep ruby colored, medium-full bodied, black berry fruits accented by cedar, tobacco leaf and smoke with hints of green olive, cassis and oak turning to smooth gripping tannins on the finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1130517

 

Château Ducru Beaucaillou St Julien Bordeaux 2009

Like the Figeac above, we served this wine from a double magnum of this producer at son Ryan's wedding from the 1982 vintage. We hold and vertical collection of this label as well as it being part of a horizontal selection of Bordeaux from his birth year vintage. I consider these two wines to be his signature wines, so it was a special treat to taste them side by side.

Dark blackish garnet colored, medium-full bodied, lively acidity, complex concentrated bright black berry and black cherry fruits, classic left bank Bordeaux tones of earth, cassis, graphite, spice and smoke turning to smooth gripping tannins on the long finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=874508




Chateau Dominus Estate Napa Red Blend 2001

As I've written before in these pages, this ultr-premium label from this legendary Bordeaux producer Christian Mouiex of Chateau Petrus, is noted for its longevity aging potential. I acquired a case of the 1986 vintage on release back at the time. I then tasted a bottle every couple of years to see how it was aging. Not until about 2000 did the wine open up to express itself and reveal its true character and potential. "So this is what Dominus is supposed to taste like", I exclaimed. Of course by that time, we only had about two bottles left!

The early vintages of this label featured a pen sketch and water color painting of Christian. It was a classic art label collection until they ceased the practice in about 1991. I collected the Dominus Estate Portrait Art Wine Label Series of these vintages up to that time and feature the labels' art in my on-line art label library collection. 

Dark blackish garnet colored, medium-full bodied, complex concentrated black berry and black cherry fruits with subtle tones of creosote, smoke, cassis, tobacco leaf and spice turning to smooth polished tannins on a lingering finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=26139


Lewis Cellars Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

One of absolute favorite cabernets. Inky purple and garnet colors, medium full bodied, smooth polished and nicely balanced with concentrated core of black berry and black raspberry fruits accented by tones of sweet oak, mocha and vanilla with hints of black olives and anise turning to smooth fine tannins on the long finish.

RM 94 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1554483


Beaulieu Vineyards Tapestry Reserve 2009

Another perennial favorite cab that delivers high QPR in most vintages, we hold more than a dozen vintages of this label in the cellar.  Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, nicely balanced, subdued black berry and black cherry fruits with tones of tar, herbs and hints of earthy and anise turning to a moderate tannin finish.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/notes.asp?iWine=1386416

Chocolates with wine 

After dinner featured a broad selection of premium Donaldson's Chocolates that we brought from Indiana, and French Valrhona chocolates that Dan and Linda acquired in Valrhona France on their Rhone River Cruise from Avignon up to Lyon.

Valrhona selection featured dark and milk chocolates from 85 to 33% mocha - ABINAO 85 % - GUANAJA 70 % - CARAÏBE 66 % - ALPACO 66 % - TAÏNORI 64 % - MANJARI 64 % - JIVARA 40 % - and TANARIVA 33 %.

Each chocolate revealed a difference nuance of the complex wines and provided a wine tasting experience in their own right.

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 1988 with Waterleaf Glenn Ellyn French inspired dinner

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 1988 with French inspired dinner at Waterleaf in Glen Ellyn

We dined with son Ryan and D-in-law Michelle at the Waterleaf restaurant in the Culinary Arts Center at COD (College of DuPage) in Glen Ellyn. I took BYOB from the cellar this Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 1988. The aged Bordeaux was a perfect accompaniment to the French inspired cuisine.

Waterleaf features a pric fixe selection of choice of starter, entree and dessert which two of us selected.

To pair with my BYOB wine, as a starter I had the Chicken Liver Mousse with Cherry Compote and Toast Points.

For entree selections, I had the Grand Marnier Coffee Glazed Duck Breast with Carrot Puree and Raspberry Reduction (left), and Ryan had the Filet Au Poivre with Potato Croquettes and Pea Puree (below).

Before dinner we had the Henry Mandois Brut Champagne, NV, and then with the girls' seafood entrees, we ordered Chappellet Napa Valley Chenin Blanc 2011 from the Wine Spectator award winning winelist.

For dinner entrees, Linda had the Sea Bass and Michelle had the Crusted Scallops (shown below).

Waterleaf's service was a bit lacking as it was a bit slow and inattentive. While the pairing of our vintage Bordeaux with the pate, steak and duck were highlights of the meal, the wine service was slow and a bit awkward. It took three requests for them to finally decant and serve our wine, which by the time it was in the glass we were almost finished with the pate starter. When the entrees were finally served, the duck entree was warm, not hot. Service aside, all the food selections were delicious with nice picturesque presentations, as shown. 

For desserts, we had the Sorbet Selection, the Maple (Creme) Brulee (which was void of Maple?) (below) and another.

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou St Julien Bordeaux 1988

Before heading to the restaurant I opened and decanted the Ducru for three hours, then recorked it. The cork was perfect and the fill level of the bottle was 1/4 up the neck.

The color was bright ruby with no sign of diminution from age. Upon opening the room filled with huge aromas of violets, berry fruits, green pepper, leather and cigar box. The wine was medium bodied, with complex bright flavors of black berry, black cherry with earthy tobacco leaf, very modest tannins and a short finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=21784

http://www.cod.edu/waterleaf/index.aspx 

Waterleaf Sea Bass was superb

Waterleaf Crusted Scallops

Waterleaf Filet Au Poivre with Potato Croquettes
and Pea Puree

Waterleaf Maple Creme Brulee

Waterleaf Sorbet Selection - Chocolate, Berry, and Ginger

Vintage 81-82 Birthyear Bordeaux Highlight Gala Family Dinner

Vintage 81-82 Birthyear Bordeaux Highlight Gala Family Dinner

For a gala family celebration dinner we dug into the cellar for some vintage Bordeaux for #1 son Ryan's and daughter Erin's birth years - Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou St Julien Bordeaux 1981 and Chateau Clerc Milon Pauillac Bordeaux 1982. Our collection of the kid's birthyear wines were the key feature of their weddings which we served from large format bottles and were highlighted in the Collecting section in Wine Spectator when our cellar was the feature back in June of 2001.

For a California comparison we pulled a vintage Bordeaux blend, Chateau St Jean Cinq Cepages 1994. We also opened a more 'recent' Marco Deguilio Hidden Ridge 55 Degree Slope Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 (this is currently available at the Cosco in Oak Brook - a great find and great QPR value!). For dinner we had grilled beef tenderloins, twice baked potatoes and steamed veggies. Sans son Alec, whom we briefly included by speaker phone, while he is still recovering out on the Jersey shore from Super Storm Sandy, exacerbated by his car being totaled, the rest of the family was there; L and I were joined by Erin and Johnny with Lucy, Ryan and Michelle, Sean, and friend Ann.We celebrated two birthdays, a new job and a couple other recent family blessings and triumphs.

We started the festivities with Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle "La Cuvée" Brut Champagne which we visited during our Champagne tour a couple years ago.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4373

We aerated and decanted the wines about ninety minutes before serving and this made a noticeable difference as they settled and opened to reveal themselves during that time. They didn't change markedly further into the evening but did the next day. The Clerc Milon was less expressive, more elegant and polished than the slightly more obtuse Ducru upon opening, The Clerc Milon showed better upon opening and throughout the evening but fell off a bit compared to the Ducru which showed bigger and more full the next day. I would rate the Clerc Milon a point higher upon opening and the initial evening and the Ducru a point higher the day after.

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou St Julien Bordeaux 1981

While this wine reached maturity in the nineties and has passed beyond the end of its purported optimal drinking window, it showed only very slight signs of diminution of body, color and flavors. I've continually been pleased and surprised at the longevity of the 1981 Bordeaux, exceeding my expectations considering the lackluster harvest and modest outcomes from that vintage.We still have about two cases of 1981 Bordeaux and while its time to drink, I'm not feeling anxious about having to consume it readily. This cork was moist and dark from saturation but completely intact. This was dark garnet colored, medium bodied, very expressive floral notes throughout that linger long beyond tasting; initial slight dark cherry astringency gave way to black berry fruits, hints of cinnamon spice, leather, tea and violets lingering on a soft smooth polished tannin finish.While great with the steak tenderloin, the remains of this were even better the next day with pasta shells stuffed with ricotta cheese and tomato bolanaise sauce.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=22740

http://www.chateau-ducru-beaucaillou.com/ 


Chateau Clerc Milon Pauillac Bordeaux 1982

This is the second label of the iconic Chateau Mouton Rothschild. There were no signs of diminution whatsoever in this 30 year old aside the spongy saturated cork that needed care to be removed but came out intact using an Ahso. Dark inky garnet purple colored, medium bodied, smooth and polished, moderate black berry fruits accented by earthy leather, tea and hints of tobacco with silky tannins on the moderate finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=36423

http://www.bpdr.com/






Chateau St Jean Sonoma County Cinq Cepages 1994

Chateau St Jean is one of the crown jewels of the Sonoma Valley - certainly the most elegant and fashionable tasting experience setting that we've experienced there. We enjoyed visiting there numerous times over the years for a comprehensive tasting experience that offers some of their Reserve and Library selections not available in the marketplace, most recently during our Napa Sonoma Wine Experience in 2009.

We've enjoyed the Cinq Cepages label since its release in the late eighties. This was one of the last releases before the 1996 release was annointed #1 Wine of the Year by Wine Spectator. We have a vertical of this up to the recent vintages - this was the oldest release in our cellar so we pulled it to compare to the vintage Bordeaux above. Cinq Cepages means 'five flavors' - a blend of five varietals used in Bordeaux wines. While primarily Cabernet Sauvignon (76%) , this also contains 14% Cabernet Franc, 5% Merlot, 4% Malbec, and 1% Petit Verdot. 


The resulting blend is dark ruby colored, medium to full bodied, smooth, polished, flavorful and complex - slightly earthy, leathery, anise, black fruit, black cherry, plum and berry with a oaky finish. This still has lots of life in it and compared very favorably with the older Bordeaux - full forward fruit with a firmer backbone and more structure than both yet still softer and more polished and approachable than the initial opening of the Ducru, but not as aromatic or as long on the finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=5434

http://www.chateaustjean.com/


Hidden Ridge 55 Degree Slope Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

This is a product of winemaker Marco DiGuilio. According to the (rear) label, this vintage selection was blended from two exceptional barrel lots from 3 blocks of the Hidden Ridge Vineyard. Nicknamed, the "Impassable Mountain" because it took ten years to develop due to the 55% slope of the ridgetops. The Hidden Ridge Vineyards consist of 21 blocks of cabernet sauvignon in some of the most isolated areas of the Mayacamas Mountain Range along the Napa-Sonoma County line - located at 38 29'50.95 N, 122 34'09.40 W.

I first discovered this wine at Morton's Steakhouse in Crystal City, Arlington, near Washington DC where it was available by bottle or by the glass. During the ensuing year we enjoyed the 05, 06 and now the '07 vintages there. We also picked up the '05 at BRIX in Napa and tasted at dinner during our Mt Veeder appellation trip in the Napa and Sonoma Mt Veeder area.


Medium to full bodied - dark inky color - flavors of blackberry, black raspberry, and plum with tones of mocha, anise, tea and a hint of tobacco box with spicy chocolate, clove and vanilla on a moderate firm tannin finish. The 2007 follows the 2005 and 06 for three blockbuster releases in a row. They're a bit tight and slightly tart upon opening, this needed an hour to settle and soften and will be even more approachable the second day.  

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1051982


http://www.hiddenridgevineyard.com/

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou St. Julien Bordeaux 1989 and Henri Restaurant, Chicago

 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou St. Julien Bordeaux 1989 and Henri Restaurant, Chicago

Henri Photo:  Anthony Tahlier

The Ducru Beaucaillou from our cellar was taken BYOB to Henri Restaurant in Chicago and drank this with L over elegant dinner. It was a great compliment to the Foie Gras and the Game Special Entree - venison with beets, chanterelles, reduction and potatoes purée.

The Dover Sole Meunière was delicious with Flowers Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2008, available and served by the glass.  The creme' brulee desert was also good. Henri had a pleasant cosmopolitan atmosphere, great food and attentive service from a professional and knowledgeable server, Megan and the supporting staff.


The Château Ducru-Beaucaillou Grand Cru Classe exhibited garrnet color - medium-light delicate body with pronounced floral perfume, black cherry and berry fruits with layers of tobacco, anise and black tea and a hint of leather, with floral continuing on a modest tannin finish. There is still life left in this twenty-two year old St Julien Bordeaux.

Blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon / 25% Merlot / 5% Cabernet Franc / 5% Petit Verdot.

RM 90 points.

http://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1625